In The Hands Of A Chef Part 9

Master Recipe-Fresh Pasta The rewards of making fresh egg pasta are far out of proportion to the amount of effort required. The task is made easy with the use of a food processor and an inexpensive manual pasta machine. Here are a few tips to make your first experience rolling the dough a little easier. egg pasta are far out of proportion to the amount of effort required. The task is made easy with the use of a food processor and an inexpensive manual pasta machine. Here are a few tips to make your first experience rolling the dough a little easier.

[image] Don't skip the first few pa.s.ses through the widest setting of the rollers. This kneads the dough, developing the gluten and helping it become more elastic. Don't skip the first few pa.s.ses through the widest setting of the rollers. This kneads the dough, developing the gluten and helping it become more elastic.[image] If the dough sticks to the rollers, dust it with a little flour. If the dough sticks to the rollers, dust it with a little flour.[image] If a small tear appears in the dough, patch the tear and roll the dough through the same setting of the pasta machine again. For larger tears, wad the sheet into a ball, flatten it with your palm, and start again, beginning with the widest setting of the rollers. Tears may occur if the dough is sticking to the rollers or you're rolling too fast. If a small tear appears in the dough, patch the tear and roll the dough through the same setting of the pasta machine again. For larger tears, wad the sheet into a ball, flatten it with your palm, and start again, beginning with the widest setting of the rollers. Tears may occur if the dough is sticking to the rollers or you're rolling too fast.[image] You should be able to roll a small piece of dough from start to finished sheet in about 10 minutes. Try not to work more slowly than this, or the dough will start to dry out while you're rolling it. You should be able to roll a small piece of dough from start to finished sheet in about 10 minutes. Try not to work more slowly than this, or the dough will start to dry out while you're rolling it.[image] You can roll out fresh pasta a day ahead of cooking. Make a stack of sheets, layering them between parchment paper dusted with semolina flour. (Semolina is a little coa.r.s.er than regular flour and keeps everything from sticking.) Put the stack on a tray and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until you're ready to cut the pasta. I generally prefer not to use made-ahead pasta for ravioli, because it's harder to seal than dough that you've just finished rolling. If you do want to use dough you've made in advance, be sure to moisten the ravioli sheets with a little water around the pockets of filling to get a good seal. You can roll out fresh pasta a day ahead of cooking. Make a stack of sheets, layering them between parchment paper dusted with semolina flour. (Semolina is a little coa.r.s.er than regular flour and keeps everything from sticking.) Put the stack on a tray and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until you're ready to cut the pasta. I generally prefer not to use made-ahead pasta for ravioli, because it's harder to seal than dough that you've just finished rolling. If you do want to use dough you've made in advance, be sure to moisten the ravioli sheets with a little water around the pockets of filling to get a good seal.

MAKES 1 POUND.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling 3 extra-large eggs 1. Put the flour in the bowl of a food processor. Beat the eggs in a bowl with a fork. With the food processor running, add the beaten eggs in a steady stream. Process until the dough comes together and is smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. If the dough seems sticky, add a little more flour. Put the ball of dough in a bowl and cover with plastic. Let rest for 20 minutes. Put the flour in the bowl of a food processor. Beat the eggs in a bowl with a fork. With the food processor running, add the beaten eggs in a steady stream. Process until the dough comes together and is smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. If the dough seems sticky, add a little more flour. Put the ball of dough in a bowl and cover with plastic. Let rest for 20 minutes.

2. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Cover 5 of the pieces with plastic. Flatten the remaining piece of dough slightly with your hand, dust it with flour, and crank it through a manual pasta machine with the rollers set at their maximum distance apart, the #1 setting. Fold the dough in thirds as though you were folding a business letter and run it through the machine again, feeding the narrow side into the rollers. Repeat the process of folding and rolling 4 or 5 more times. This process kneads the dough and prepares it for the next step of thinning it. Don't hesitate to sprinkle the dough with flour as necessary as you continue running it through the machine; you don't want it to stick to the rollers. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Cover 5 of the pieces with plastic. Flatten the remaining piece of dough slightly with your hand, dust it with flour, and crank it through a manual pasta machine with the rollers set at their maximum distance apart, the #1 setting. Fold the dough in thirds as though you were folding a business letter and run it through the machine again, feeding the narrow side into the rollers. Repeat the process of folding and rolling 4 or 5 more times. This process kneads the dough and prepares it for the next step of thinning it. Don't hesitate to sprinkle the dough with flour as necessary as you continue running it through the machine; you don't want it to stick to the rollers.

3. Gradually roll the dough to the desired thinness, narrowing the distance between the rollers with each pa.s.s of the dough. If the dough tears, just patch it together and roll it through the same setting again, a little more slowly this time. If the dough sticks to the rollers, sprinkle it with flour. (You will soon get the feel for the right speed and the proper level of moisture to keep the dough rolling efficiently.) After you've rolled the dough through the #6 setting, it should be thin enough to cut into any string pasta. For ravioli, the dough should be rolled slightly thinner. If you have an older machine there may be only one more setting; otherwise, the machine may go up to #9. For ravioli, roll the dough through #7 if that's your highest setting, or through #8. (I never use #9-the dough becomes too delicate to handle easily.) Gradually roll the dough to the desired thinness, narrowing the distance between the rollers with each pa.s.s of the dough. If the dough tears, just patch it together and roll it through the same setting again, a little more slowly this time. If the dough sticks to the rollers, sprinkle it with flour. (You will soon get the feel for the right speed and the proper level of moisture to keep the dough rolling efficiently.) After you've rolled the dough through the #6 setting, it should be thin enough to cut into any string pasta. For ravioli, the dough should be rolled slightly thinner. If you have an older machine there may be only one more setting; otherwise, the machine may go up to #9. For ravioli, roll the dough through #7 if that's your highest setting, or through #8. (I never use #9-the dough becomes too delicate to handle easily.) 4. Let the dough dry for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting it into noodles. Ravioli should be prepared while the dough is still moist. Transfer the cut noodles to a board or a sheet pan covered with a towel lightly dusted with flour. Let the dough dry for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting it into noodles. Ravioli should be prepared while the dough is still moist. Transfer the cut noodles to a board or a sheet pan covered with a towel lightly dusted with flour.

Using a Half-Recipe of Fresh Pasta Once in a while I only need one pound of fresh pasta dough (a half-recipe). If I know I'll use the remainder within a few days, I simply make the full pound of dough and roll out half for whatever I'm making, saving the rest as a tightly wrapped ball in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to 4 days; after that, the gluten starts to break down. If I only want to make only need one pound of fresh pasta dough (a half-recipe). If I know I'll use the remainder within a few days, I simply make the full pound of dough and roll out half for whatever I'm making, saving the rest as a tightly wrapped ball in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to 4 days; after that, the gluten starts to break down. If I only want to make pound of pasta, I follow the recipe, using 1 cup flour, 1 extra-large egg, 1 extra-large egg yolk, and 1 tablespoon water; I divide the dough into 3 b.a.l.l.s instead of 6. A third alternative is simply to buy pound of pasta dough and roll it out yourself. The pasta store near me, in addition to a variety of noodles and ravioli, sells fresh dough, uncut sheets, and even ravioli molds and pastry wheels. pound of pasta, I follow the recipe, using 1 cup flour, 1 extra-large egg, 1 extra-large egg yolk, and 1 tablespoon water; I divide the dough into 3 b.a.l.l.s instead of 6. A third alternative is simply to buy pound of pasta dough and roll it out yourself. The pasta store near me, in addition to a variety of noodles and ravioli, sells fresh dough, uncut sheets, and even ravioli molds and pastry wheels.

On Cutting Pasta [image] Before cutting noodles, allow the sheets to dry (not on top of each other) on floured kitchen towels for 5 to 10 minutes. Wait just until the dough is no longer sticky before cutting-but not too long, or the dough will break when you try to run it through the cutters. After cutting, pile the noodles in soft bundles on floured towels or cutting board. It's OK if they dry out before cooking. Before cutting noodles, allow the sheets to dry (not on top of each other) on floured kitchen towels for 5 to 10 minutes. Wait just until the dough is no longer sticky before cutting-but not too long, or the dough will break when you try to run it through the cutters. After cutting, pile the noodles in soft bundles on floured towels or cutting board. It's OK if they dry out before cooking.[image] If making ravioli, use each sheet as soon as you finish rolling it, leaving the other pieces of dough tightly wrapped. Using the dough while it is still moist helps to make a good seal. Place cut ravioli on a tray lined with a towel dusted with semolina flour. Completed ravioli can sit out for several hours before cooking or be refrigerated overnight, tightly covered or wrapped in plastic. They can also be frozen; Put them on a flour-dusted tray in the freezer. As soon as they're hard, transfer to a freezer bag. They'll keep for a month. If making ravioli, use each sheet as soon as you finish rolling it, leaving the other pieces of dough tightly wrapped. Using the dough while it is still moist helps to make a good seal. Place cut ravioli on a tray lined with a towel dusted with semolina flour. Completed ravioli can sit out for several hours before cooking or be refrigerated overnight, tightly covered or wrapped in plastic. They can also be frozen; Put them on a flour-dusted tray in the freezer. As soon as they're hard, transfer to a freezer bag. They'll keep for a month.

FETTUCCINE OR TAGLIATELLE.

Tagliatelle and fettuccine are essentially the same noodle, about inch wide, with different names depending on the region: It's fettuccine in the south of Italy, tagliatelle in the north.

LASAGNA.

Roll out sheets of pasta through the #6 setting. The recipes for lasagna and for nidimi call for various sizes of squares and rectangles, so cut as directed in the individual recipe.

PAPPARDELLE.

Pappardelle is a wide hand-cut noodle, often seen with tiny zigzag edges. Lay a sheet of pasta on a floured surface and use a pastry wheel (which will give it the zigzag edge) or a sharp knife to cut inch-wide noodles.

RAVIOLI.

After making the master recipe for Fresh Pasta, divide the dough into 5 pieces. Roll each piece into a sheet of pasta 20 inches long (it doesn't have to be exact) and 5 inches wide. Lay a sheet horizontally on a flat, floured work surface in front of you. To understand where the filling goes, imagine folding the sheet in half lengthwise and then cutting it crosswise to make 8 square ravioli, about 2 inches on a side. Place 8 spoonfuls of filling on the dough in a single row along the side nearest you. Fold the pasta over. Cut between the pockets of filling with a pastry wheel. Press the air out of the individual ravioli with your fingertips, working outward from the filling, and seal the edges by pressing on them with your fingertips or using the back of a fork (kids like doing this).

If the dough is no longer moist when you're making the ravioli, brush the empty s.p.a.ce around the filling with water before folding the dough. This will help make the seal stick. Transfer the finished ravioli to a sheet pan covered with a kitchen towel dusted with flour. A pound of pasta dough will make approximately 40 ravioli.

Linguine with Salsa Cruda A sauce of uncooked tomatoes is sauce of uncooked tomatoes is one of late summer's culinary payoffs, the reward for waiting for locally grown tomatoes to arrive, whether from your own garden or the nearest farmers' market. Since the components retain their distinctive flavors instead of blending together, the dish is only as good as its poorest ingredient-don't skimp on the quality of olive oil or subst.i.tute second-rate tomatoes. This is a dish of sharp, contrasting flavors with lots of heat. If you want to tone things down, subst.i.tute spinach for the arugula and cut back on the serrano peppers. one of late summer's culinary payoffs, the reward for waiting for locally grown tomatoes to arrive, whether from your own garden or the nearest farmers' market. Since the components retain their distinctive flavors instead of blending together, the dish is only as good as its poorest ingredient-don't skimp on the quality of olive oil or subst.i.tute second-rate tomatoes. This is a dish of sharp, contrasting flavors with lots of heat. If you want to tone things down, subst.i.tute spinach for the arugula and cut back on the serrano peppers.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

Kosher salt 1 pound high-quality dried linguine cup extra virgin olive oil 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced (use less for a milder sauce) 3 tablespoons capers, rinsed 10 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 2 cups arugula, rinsed thoroughly, drained, and coa.r.s.ely chopped Freshly ground black pepper 2ounces Pecorino Romano shavings 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Add the linguine and stir so that the strands don't stick together. (If the pot isn't large enough for the linguine to lie flat, either break the strands in half or hold one end of the pasta bundle while the other end softens in the boiling water, then release the pasta into the water.) Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the pasta is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it. Begin checking for doneness 7 or 8 minutes after it has returned to a boil. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Add the linguine and stir so that the strands don't stick together. (If the pot isn't large enough for the linguine to lie flat, either break the strands in half or hold one end of the pasta bundle while the other end softens in the boiling water, then release the pasta into the water.) Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the pasta is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it. Begin checking for doneness 7 or 8 minutes after it has returned to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add the garlic, peppers, and capers. Cook until the garlic is tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add the garlic, peppers, and capers. Cook until the garlic is tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.

3. When the linguine is done, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup pasta water and set it aside. Drain the pasta, transfer it to a large warm bowl, and add the tomatoes. When the linguine is done, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup pasta water and set it aside. Drain the pasta, transfer it to a large warm bowl, and add the tomatoes.

4. Add the reserved pasta water to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour the mixture over the pasta, add the arugula, and toss well. Taste, then add salt and pepper if necessary. Serve immediately, offering the pecorino shavings on the side. Add the reserved pasta water to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour the mixture over the pasta, add the arugula, and toss well. Taste, then add salt and pepper if necessary. Serve immediately, offering the pecorino shavings on the side.

Pappardelle with Smoked Mussels, Shrimp, Yellow Peppers, and Black Olives In its home region of Tuscany, pappardelle is often served with game sauces. Tuscans think of these wide noodles as standing up to the big-bodied flavors of wild mushrooms, duck, and rabbit. Seafood, typically lighter fare, is a.s.sociated with linguine or spaghetti. I've taken some liberties here by bringing seafood together with these noodles, but the combination of smoked mussels, roasted peppers, and black olives makes this a bold sauce with a lot of texture. Tuscany, pappardelle is often served with game sauces. Tuscans think of these wide noodles as standing up to the big-bodied flavors of wild mushrooms, duck, and rabbit. Seafood, typically lighter fare, is a.s.sociated with linguine or spaghetti. I've taken some liberties here by bringing seafood together with these noodles, but the combination of smoked mussels, roasted peppers, and black olives makes this a bold sauce with a lot of texture.

Traditional thinking holds that sauces with olive oil adhere to dried pasta better than fresh noodles, which are preferred with cream sauces and meat ragouts. While I generally go along with this, seafood sauces seem more problematic, with a little more room for personal choice. Squid and clams seem happiest, to my taste, with linguine, but I prefer fresh noodles with two of the three seafood sauces I've included in this chapter.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 small red onion, cut into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 yellow peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, seeded, stemmed, and cut into -inch-wide strips 3 plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and cut into -inch-wide strips teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons chopped pitted black olives 24 medium shrimp (about 1 pound), peeled, deveined, and split lengthwise pint smoked mussels 1 recipe Fresh Pasta (pages 142-43), cut into pappardelle (see page 144) DO AHEAD: Roast and peel the peppers, peel the shrimp, and peel the tomatoes a day in advance. Wait, however, until the day of serving to chop the tomatoes, so they don't dry out. Roast and peel the peppers, peel the shrimp, and peel the tomatoes a day in advance. Wait, however, until the day of serving to chop the tomatoes, so they don't dry out.

1. Put a large pot of water on to boil. Put a large pot of water on to boil.

2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and peppers and cook for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, marjoram, and red pepper flakes, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the shrimp, olives, and mussels and cook until the shrimp are just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Keep warm. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and peppers and cook for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, marjoram, and red pepper flakes, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the shrimp, olives, and mussels and cook until the shrimp are just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Keep warm.

3. Season the boiling water with salt, add the pappardelle, and stir so that the strands don't stick together. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the pasta is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it, about Season the boiling water with salt, add the pappardelle, and stir so that the strands don't stick together. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the pasta is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it, about 3 3 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside. minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside.

4. Pour the pasta into a colander, then transfer the pasta to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over it and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Serve immediately. Pour the pasta into a colander, then transfer the pasta to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over it and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Serve immediately.

Cornmeal Pappardelle with Scallops, Saffron, Tomatoes, and Fresh Corn The scallops and saffron in this dish seem distinctly French, but the cornmeal pasta would feel right at home in Tuscany. The combination is a dish with intense aromas of saffron and scallops that gradually give way to subtler hints of corn and tarragon. Cornmeal pasta is exactly the right choice here; its textured, rustic quality keeps the dish from tipping over into unctuousness. this dish seem distinctly French, but the cornmeal pasta would feel right at home in Tuscany. The combination is a dish with intense aromas of saffron and scallops that gradually give way to subtler hints of corn and tarragon. Cornmeal pasta is exactly the right choice here; its textured, rustic quality keeps the dish from tipping over into unctuousness.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

PAPPARDELLE.

1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough 2 tablespoons fine cornmeal 2 extra-large eggs SAUCE.

2 ears corn cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Small pinch of saffron, steeped in cup dry white wine 8 plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 1 pound bay or small sea scallops teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. Put the flour and cornmeal in a food processor. Beat the eggs in a bowl with a fork. With the food processor running, add the beaten eggs in a steady stream. Process until the dough comes together and is smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. If the dough seems sticky, add a little more flour. If it's too dry, add a few drops of water. Put the ball of dough in a bowl and cover with plastic. Let rest for 20 minutes.

2. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Cover 5 of the pieces with plastic. Flatten the remaining piece of dough slightly with your hand, dust it with flour, and crank it through a manual pasta machine with the rollers set at their maximum distance apart, the #1 setting. Fold the dough in thirds as though you were folding a business letter and run it through the machine again, feeding the narrow side into the rollers. Repeat the process of folding and rolling 4 or 5 more times. This process kneads the dough and prepares it for the next step of thinning it. Don't hesitate to sprinkle the dough with flour as necessary as you continue running it through the machine; you don't want it to stick to the rollers.

3. Gradually roll the dough to the correct thinness, narrowing the distance between the rollers with each pa.s.s of the dough. After you've rolled the sheet through the #6 setting, it should be thin enough. Transfer the sheet of pasta to a towel dusted with flour and let it dry for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting. While the first sheet is drying, roll out the next piece of dough.

4. To cut the pappardelle, lay the sheet of pasta on a floured surface and use a pastry wheel (to give it a zigzag edge) or a sharp knife to cut into -inch-wide noodles. Arrange the pappardelle in a soft pile on a board or kitchen towel dusted with semolina flour. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces of dough. The pasta can sit out at room temperature for several hours.

5. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the corn to the boiling water and cook for 2 minutes. Pull out the corn and submerge it in the ice water. After the corn has cooled, cut the kernels off the cobs and set aside. Run the dull edge of a knife down the cobs to extract the remaining corn "milk." Add to the corn kernels.

6. Put a large pot of water on to boil for the pasta. When it starts to simmer, proceed to the next step.

7. Heat cup of the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the onion is tender, about 3 minutes. Add the saffron and white wine and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

8. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and add to the pan in a single layer. Sear until golden brown on the first side. Don't move them around until they've gotten a good sear and are ready to be flipped; they tend to release their juices if jostled, and then they steam rather than sear. Flip and sear on the opposite side. The scallops should still have a creamy texture inside when done.

9. Add the tomato mixture, corn, and herbs to the pan with the scallops. Toss until heated through, about 30 seconds. Season with the lemon juice and salt and pepper. Remove from heat and keep warm.

10. Meanwhile, season the boiling water with salt, add the pappardelle, and stir so that the strands don't stick together. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the pasta is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it, about 3 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside.

11. Pour the pasta into a colander, then transfer it to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Serve immediately.

Tagliatelle with Shad Roe, Pancetta, and Spinach Don't let another spring pa.s.s without tasting fresh tagliatelle sauced with a creamy combination of shad roe, pancetta, and spinach. The distinctively nutty flavor and silky texture of shad roe, available for only a few brief weeks, is not to be missed. Shad roe are usually sold in "pairs," or "sets," attached twin pink lobes or sacs containing a firm ma.s.s of eggs. Take care not to overcook the roe during the initial poaching, or the resulting sauce will be grainy rather than creamy. Don't worry if you can't remove all the membranes holding the roe sacs together. When the sacs are mashed with a fork, any remaining membranes will break down. without tasting fresh tagliatelle sauced with a creamy combination of shad roe, pancetta, and spinach. The distinctively nutty flavor and silky texture of shad roe, available for only a few brief weeks, is not to be missed. Shad roe are usually sold in "pairs," or "sets," attached twin pink lobes or sacs containing a firm ma.s.s of eggs. Take care not to overcook the roe during the initial poaching, or the resulting sauce will be grainy rather than creamy. Don't worry if you can't remove all the membranes holding the roe sacs together. When the sacs are mashed with a fork, any remaining membranes will break down.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 cups water cup dry white wine small onion, thinly sliced celery stalk, thinly sliced crosswise 1 sprig thyme 1 bay leaf Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 pair shad roe (about pound) cup extra virgin olive oil 3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, cut into -inch-wide strips 6 shallots, minced 2 small garlic cloves, minced pound Fresh Pasta (pages 14243), cut into tagliatelle (see page 144) 3 cups lightly packed flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, dried, and cut into -inch-wide strips teaspoon finely chopped fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice DO AHEAD: Poach the roe and clean the spinach a day in advance. Poach the roe and clean the spinach a day in advance.

1. Bring the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme, and bay leaf to a boil in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Gently slip the roe sacks into the liquid (you don't want the membranes holding everything together to rupture) and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the roe to cool in the liquid. Bring the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme, and bay leaf to a boil in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Gently slip the roe sacks into the liquid (you don't want the membranes holding everything together to rupture) and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the roe to cool in the liquid.

2. Carefully remove the cooled roe sacks from the poaching liquid. Remove the blood vessel and any thick pieces of membrane. Split the membranes holding the roe, and sc.r.a.pe it into a bowl. Use a fork to mash the clumps into individual eggs. Remove any obvious remaining membrane. Season with salt and pepper, cover tightly, and refrigerate. Carefully remove the cooled roe sacks from the poaching liquid. Remove the blood vessel and any thick pieces of membrane. Split the membranes holding the roe, and sc.r.a.pe it into a bowl. Use a fork to mash the clumps into individual eggs. Remove any obvious remaining membrane. Season with salt and pepper, cover tightly, and refrigerate.

3. Put a large pot of water on to boil. Put a large pot of water on to boil.

4. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat starts to render, about a minute. Don't let it get too crispy. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Keep warm. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat starts to render, about a minute. Don't let it get too crispy. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Keep warm.

5. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the individual strands remain separate. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the tagliatelle is tender but still offers a little resistance when you bite into it, about 3 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the individual strands remain separate. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the tagliatelle is tender but still offers a little resistance when you bite into it, about 3 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside.

6. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the pancetta, garlic, and shallots to high heat. Add the spinach and tarragon and toss quickly, just until the spinach has wilted. Season with salt and pepper; remove from heat and keep warm. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the pancetta, garlic, and shallots to high heat. Add the spinach and tarragon and toss quickly, just until the spinach has wilted. Season with salt and pepper; remove from heat and keep warm.

7. Transfer the pasta to a large warm bowl. Pour the spinach mixture over it and add the roe. Toss well. If the sauce seems too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Season with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper, being especially generous with pepper. Serve immediately. Transfer the pasta to a large warm bowl. Pour the spinach mixture over it and add the roe. Toss well. If the sauce seems too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Season with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper, being especially generous with pepper. Serve immediately.

Brandade Lasagna with Broccoli Rabe This is not the lasagna your mother (or grandmother) used to serve you. Deceptively spare, elegant, with about a third of the cheese of traditional lasagna, it's suffused with the a.s.sertive flavor of brandade, the Provencal puree of salt cod, cream, and a little potato. By itself, brandade would be too rich a filler for lasagna-you'd be sated after a bite or two-but the sharp flavor of broccoli rabe and the mild acid of the tomato sauce keep the brandade in line. Just when you think you've had enough, the richness is erased, and you want to go back for more. your mother (or grandmother) used to serve you. Deceptively spare, elegant, with about a third of the cheese of traditional lasagna, it's suffused with the a.s.sertive flavor of brandade, the Provencal puree of salt cod, cream, and a little potato. By itself, brandade would be too rich a filler for lasagna-you'd be sated after a bite or two-but the sharp flavor of broccoli rabe and the mild acid of the tomato sauce keep the brandade in line. Just when you think you've had enough, the richness is erased, and you want to go back for more.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SAUCE.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 cups diced tomatoes (high-quality canned tomatoes are fine) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon hot red pepper flakes LASAGNA.

Kosher salt 1 pounds broccoli rabe, tough or split stems removed, rinsed 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit Freshly ground black pepper 4 garlic cloves, chopped teaspoon hot red pepper flakes Eight 68-inch sheets Fresh Pasta (pages 14243; use half a recipe [about pound], roll it out to setting #6, and cut into 8-inch lengths) 1 recipe Brandade de Morue (page 22) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 cups freshly grated Pecorino Romano 4 teaspoons capers, rinsed, for garnish DO AHEAD: Make the brandade 2 days ahead. The sauce can also be made ahead and reheated. Make the brandade 2 days ahead. The sauce can also be made ahead and reheated.

1. Heat the olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and add the sugar and red pepper flakes. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it with a little water as it cooks. Heat the olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and add the sugar and red pepper flakes. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it with a little water as it cooks.

2. Transfer the sauce to a blender and puree. Strain, if desired, and set aside. Transfer the sauce to a blender and puree. Strain, if desired, and set aside.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the broccoli rabe to the boiling water and cook at a rolling boil until tender, about 4 minutes. Scoop out the broccoli and plunge it into the ice water. When it's chilled, drain and pat dry. Coa.r.s.ely chop and set aside. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the broccoli rabe to the boiling water and cook at a rolling boil until tender, about 4 minutes. Scoop out the broccoli and plunge it into the ice water. When it's chilled, drain and pat dry. Coa.r.s.ely chop and set aside.

4. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the broccoli rabe and red pepper flakes, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Remove from the heat and let cool. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the broccoli rabe and red pepper flakes, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Remove from the heat and let cool.

5. Bring a fresh pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare another bowl of ice water. Lay out a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter large enough to hold one sheet of pasta. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and blanch for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Drain the sheets in a colander, then immediately plunge them into the ice bath. Stir the sheets gently until they've cooled, about 30 seconds. Remove one pasta sheet, drain, and lay it out on the plastic wrap. Cover with a second sheet of plastic, then remove and drain a second pasta sheet, lay it on top of the first, and cover with plastic. (Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long, they'll stick together.) Repeat the process with the remaining sheets, then cover with a final layer of plastic wrap. Set aside until ready to use. Bring a fresh pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare another bowl of ice water. Lay out a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter large enough to hold one sheet of pasta. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and blanch for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Drain the sheets in a colander, then immediately plunge them into the ice bath. Stir the sheets gently until they've cooled, about 30 seconds. Remove one pasta sheet, drain, and lay it out on the plastic wrap. Cover with a second sheet of plastic, then remove and drain a second pasta sheet, lay it on top of the first, and cover with plastic. (Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long, they'll stick together.) Repeat the process with the remaining sheets, then cover with a final layer of plastic wrap. Set aside until ready to use.

6. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

7. Rub a 913-inch lasagna pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Mix the brandade with the parsley. Lay 2 of the pasta sheets side by side in the pan so the bottom is covered. Spread the sheets evenly with one-third of the brandade. Top with one-third of the leek and broccoli rabe mixture, sprinkle with cup of the cheese, and cover with 2 more sheets of pasta. Repeat the layering two more times, finishing with a final layer of pasta sheets. Brush the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining cup Pecorino Romano. Rub a 913-inch lasagna pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Mix the brandade with the parsley. Lay 2 of the pasta sheets side by side in the pan so the bottom is covered. Spread the sheets evenly with one-third of the brandade. Top with one-third of the leek and broccoli rabe mixture, sprinkle with cup of the cheese, and cover with 2 more sheets of pasta. Repeat the layering two more times, finishing with a final layer of pasta sheets. Brush the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining cup Pecorino Romano.

8. Bake the lasagna for 25 minutes, or until it is heated through and the top is lightly browned. Let rest for 5 minutes before cutting. Bake the lasagna for 25 minutes, or until it is heated through and the top is lightly browned. Let rest for 5 minutes before cutting.

9. While the lasagna is resting, warm the sauce. Cut the lasagna into 4 equal pieces. Make a pool of warm tomato sauce in the center of each plate. Set a serving of lasagna in the center of each pool of sauce. Sprinkle with the capers and serve. While the lasagna is resting, warm the sauce. Cut the lasagna into 4 equal pieces. Make a pool of warm tomato sauce in the center of each plate. Set a serving of lasagna in the center of each pool of sauce. Sprinkle with the capers and serve.

Spaghetti with Maine Crabmeat, Toasted Bread Crumbs, and Garlic I was skeptical on first hearing was skeptical on first hearing that in southern Italy bread crumbs sauteed in olive oil were the poor man's subst.i.tute for cheese. I didn't doubt that this was a technique that was used, just whether it tasted good. I've since revised my opinion: Sauteed bread crumbs lend a great texture and delicious flavor to pasta, even when there is nothing else to accompany them except a few cloves of garlic and a handful of chopped fresh herbs. that in southern Italy bread crumbs sauteed in olive oil were the poor man's subst.i.tute for cheese. I didn't doubt that this was a technique that was used, just whether it tasted good. I've since revised my opinion: Sauteed bread crumbs lend a great texture and delicious flavor to pasta, even when there is nothing else to accompany them except a few cloves of garlic and a handful of chopped fresh herbs.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 cups slightly dry coa.r.s.e bread crumbs 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or more to taste Kosher salt 1 pound high-quality dried spaghetti 1 pound Maine (or other high-quality) crabmeat (fresh or thawed frozen), picked through to remove any sh.e.l.ls cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Put a large pot of water on to boil. Put a large pot of water on to boil.

2. Meanwhile, heat cup of the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir until they're toasted and golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Meanwhile, heat cup of the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir until they're toasted and golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel and add the remaining oil. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until golden. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes, season with salt, and cook until the tomatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel and add the remaining oil. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until golden. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes, season with salt, and cook until the tomatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 3 minutes. Set aside.

4. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the strands remain separate. (If the pot isn't large enough for the spaghetti to lie flat, either break the strands in half or hold one end of the pasta bundle while the other end softens in the boiling water, then release the pasta into the water.) Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil, cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the spaghetti is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it. Begin checking for doneness after 8 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the strands remain separate. (If the pot isn't large enough for the spaghetti to lie flat, either break the strands in half or hold one end of the pasta bundle while the other end softens in the boiling water, then release the pasta into the water.) Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil, cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the spaghetti is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it. Begin checking for doneness after 8 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside.

5. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the tomatoes to high heat. Add the crabmeat and parsley and heat through. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the tomatoes to high heat. Add the crabmeat and parsley and heat through.

6. Transfer the spaghetti to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over it and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the spaghetti, add enough of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Toss with the bread crumbs and serve. Transfer the spaghetti to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over it and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the spaghetti, add enough of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Toss with the bread crumbs and serve.

Fregola-Sardinian Pasta with Lemon, Favas, Parmesan, and Lots of Parsley Fregola is a granular Sardinian pasta. The pasta dough is rolled by hand into peppercorn-sized b.a.l.l.s and then baked. In the last few years it has been appearing on American menus, either under its own name or billed as "giant couscous, " which it does indeed resemble. In Sardinia, fregola is often added to soup or broth, not unlike orzo, or matched with seafood, especially mussels or clams. You can cook it like regular pasta-boiling it in stock or water-but I prefer to treat it like risotto, which results in a much creamier texture. pasta. The pasta dough is rolled by hand into peppercorn-sized b.a.l.l.s and then baked. In the last few years it has been appearing on American menus, either under its own name or billed as "giant couscous, " which it does indeed resemble. In Sardinia, fregola is often added to soup or broth, not unlike orzo, or matched with seafood, especially mussels or clams. You can cook it like regular pasta-boiling it in stock or water-but I prefer to treat it like risotto, which results in a much creamier texture.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER OR SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

4 to 5 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, cut into -inch dice pound fregola (Sardinian pasta, available in the Mediterranean section of specialty food stores) Grated zest of 2 lemons 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup sh.e.l.led fresh fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88) and peeled (about 1 pound in the pod; if favas are unavailable, you can use blanched fresh lima beans or fresh peas) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a medium saucepan, then lower the heat to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper if it's unseasoned or you're using low-sodium broth. Keep the stock hot. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a medium saucepan, then lower the heat to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper if it's unseasoned or you're using low-sodium broth. Keep the stock hot.

2. Heat the oil in a large deep saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the fregola and lemon zest and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Ladle 1 cup of the chicken stock over the fregola, stirring constantly, and cook until the stock is almost completely absorbed. Add 3 more cups of the stock, 1 cups at a time, waiting until the previous addition is almost absorbed before adding more. Lower the heat if the stock seems to disappear as soon as it hits the pan or seems to be boiling. When finished, the pasta should be tender but not mushy. Add more chicken stock if necessary; the dish should be a little soupy. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lemon juice and cheese. Keep warm. Heat the oil in a large deep saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the fregola and lemon zest and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Ladle 1 cup of the chicken stock over the fregola, stirring constantly, and cook until the stock is almost completely absorbed. Add 3 more cups of the stock, 1 cups at a time, waiting until the previous addition is almost absorbed before adding more. Lower the heat if the stock seems to disappear as soon as it hits the pan or seems to be boiling. When finished, the pasta should be tender but not mushy. Add more chicken stock if necessary; the dish should be a little soupy. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lemon juice and cheese. Keep warm.

3. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the favas and toss in the b.u.t.ter until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the favas and toss in the b.u.t.ter until heated through. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Stir the parsley into the fregola. Spoon the pasta into four warm bowls, top with the fava beans, and serve, offering additional cheese. Stir the parsley into the fregola. Spoon the pasta into four warm bowls, top with the fava beans, and serve, offering additional cheese.

Penne with Shrimp, Artichokes, and Feta At a conference of women chefs in Mexico City, I tasted a perfect shrimp dish prepared by Monique Andree Barbeau, the chef of Fullers in Seattle. The shrimp were saturated with flavor, but still mysteriously tender. The trick, she explained, was to first simmer aromatic ingredients in oil, then to cook the shrimp over low heat, all the while keeping them completely submerged in the flavored oil. In this recipe, fennel, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, garlic, and lemon zest create the first level of flavor, followed by a long simmer of artichoke quarters. Only then do the shrimp enter the pan for their own slow cooking. chefs in Mexico City, I tasted a perfect shrimp dish prepared by Monique Andree Barbeau, the chef of Fullers in Seattle. The shrimp were saturated with flavor, but still mysteriously tender. The trick, she explained, was to first simmer aromatic ingredients in oil, then to cook the shrimp over low heat, all the while keeping them completely submerged in the flavored oil. In this recipe, fennel, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, garlic, and lemon zest create the first level of flavor, followed by a long simmer of artichoke quarters. Only then do the shrimp enter the pan for their own slow cooking.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 cups extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice Grated zest of 1 lemon Kosher salt 3 large artichokes, trimmed (see page 85), cut into quarters, chokes removed, and rubbed with a lemon half 1 pound medium shrimp (20 to 25), peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice pound penne 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano 6 ounces feta, crumbled into large pieces 1. Combine the olive oil, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, oregano, red pepper flakes, garlic, onion, and lemon zest in a large saute pan. Season generously with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, so the seasonings flavor the oil. Combine the olive oil, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, oregano, red pepper flakes, garlic, onion, and lemon zest in a large saute pan. Season generously with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, so the seasonings flavor the oil.

2. Add the artichokes, lower the heat if necessary (the oil should be barely bubbling), and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the artichokes to a bowl. Add the artichokes, lower the heat if necessary (the oil should be barely bubbling), and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the artichokes to a bowl.

3. Add the shrimp to the oil and cook at the same low simmer, turning once, until done, about 10 minutes. Add the shrimp to the oil and cook at the same low simmer, turning once, until done, about 10 minutes.

4. Remove the shrimp from the oil and let cool on a plate. Pour off 1 cup of the oil from the pan, strain, and refrigerate for another use. (The oil is delicious and can be used in vinaigrettes or for sauteing another dish.) Leave the pan over low heat. Remove the shrimp from the oil and let cool on a plate. Pour off 1 cup of the oil from the pan, strain, and refrigerate for another use. (The oil is delicious and can be used in vinaigrettes or for sauteing another dish.) Leave the pan over low heat.

5. As soon as they're cool enough to handle, remove the leaves from the artichokes and save for another use. Chop the artichoke hearts and stems into 1-inch pieces and return to the bowl. Add the shrimp and toss with the lemon juice. As soon as they're cool enough to handle, remove the leaves from the artichokes and save for another use. Chop the artichoke hearts and stems into 1-inch pieces and return to the bowl. Add the shrimp and toss with the lemon juice.

6. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the penne and stir constantly until the water returns to a boil. Cook until the pasta is tender but still offers some resistance when you bite into it, about 10 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water; reserve. Drain the pasta in a colander and add to the saute pan with the oil. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the penne and stir constantly until the water returns to a boil. Cook until the pasta is tender but still offers some resistance when you bite into it, about 10 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water; reserve. Drain the pasta in a colander and add to the saute pan with the oil.

7. Add the artichokes, shrimp, herbs, and feta and toss until heated through. Taste for seasoning. Depending on the saltiness of the feta, it may not be necessary to add additional salt. If the pasta seems too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water as needed. Add the artichokes, shrimp, herbs, and feta and toss until heated through. Taste for seasoning. Depending on the saltiness of the feta, it may not be necessary to add additional salt. If the pasta seems too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water as needed.

8. Divide among four warm bowls. Garnish each portion with a sprig of mint and serve. Divide among four warm bowls. Garnish each portion with a sprig of mint and serve.

Big Ravioli Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms, Spinach, and Poached Eggs This is a spectacular brunch or weekend lunch dish whose first impression is innocently innocuous-a pair of large square ravioli dusted with cheese on each diner's plate. The first cut through the pasta gives the game away-molten egg yolk flows voluptuously over a stuffing of wild mushrooms, tomato, and spinach. It is at once sensual, surprising, and delicious. The raviolis were inspired by or weekend lunch dish whose first impression is innocently innocuous-a pair of large square ravioli dusted with cheese on each diner's plate. The first cut through the pasta gives the game away-molten egg yolk flows voluptuously over a stuffing of wild mushrooms, tomato, and spinach. It is at once sensual, surprising, and delicious. The raviolis were inspired by brik, brik, a North African fried pastry containing an egg. a North African fried pastry containing an egg.

MAKES 8 LARGE RAVIOLI OR 4 SERVINGS.

FILLING.

4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter pound mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 shallots, minced pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried pound cream cheese, at room temperature 2 plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) 9 extra-large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 thin slices pancetta (3 to 4 ounces) 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 sprig thyme cup freshly grated Parmesan cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: The ravioli can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to cook them. The ravioli can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to cook them.

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their juices, and the juices are almost gone. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their juices, and the juices are almost gone. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl.

2. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the garlic and shallots. Cook until they soften, 2 to 3 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary so they don't burn. Increase the heat to high. Add the spinach and stir until it wilts, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the spinach from the pan, draining any excess water if necessary, and allow to cool. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the garlic and shallots. Cook until they soften, 2 to 3 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary so they don't burn. Increase the heat to high. Add the spinach and stir until it wilts, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the spinach from the pan, draining any excess water if necessary, and allow to cool.