In The Hands Of A Chef Part 8

My preference is to make a single large pizza, rolling the dough into whatever irregular shape strikes my fancy-oblong or roughly oval, sometimes with a weird extension or two. Everyone loves the "rustica" just-tossed-off look when it arrives at the table, hot and ready for slicing. If your heart is set on serving individual pizzas, dispense with the pizza stone altogether. Instead, bake all the pizzas at once on sheet pans dusted with cornmeal. What you lose in crispiness, you gain in convenience. A third solution is to choose a recipe like the Smoked Salmon Pizza, in which all the crusts are baked first, then the topping added. Keep the crusts warm on top of the oven (don't pile them up or cover them-they'll get soggy), top all of them at the same time, and serve.

Fig and Taleggio Pizza with Sage and Honey In this fortuitous dish, a couple of different ideas find expression in a single recipe. Ever since I tasted Gorgonzola drizzled with honey at Checchino restaurant in Rome, I'd thought about experimenting with a honey and cheese combination on an appetizer pizza. Instead of Gorgonzola, which struck me as a little too pungent, I opted for Taleggio, a soft-ripening, washed-rind cheese from Lombardy. Figs, a traditional partner with Taleggio, made a good addition to the combination. Use an amber honey whose character will contribute something besides simple sweetness-I like "autumn honey, " a deep, almost black honey that begins appearing in New England farmers' markets in October. couple of different ideas find expression in a single recipe. Ever since I tasted Gorgonzola drizzled with honey at Checchino restaurant in Rome, I'd thought about experimenting with a honey and cheese combination on an appetizer pizza. Instead of Gorgonzola, which struck me as a little too pungent, I opted for Taleggio, a soft-ripening, washed-rind cheese from Lombardy. Figs, a traditional partner with Taleggio, made a good addition to the combination. Use an amber honey whose character will contribute something besides simple sweetness-I like "autumn honey, " a deep, almost black honey that begins appearing in New England farmers' markets in October.

MAKES FOUR 8-INCH THIN-CRUST PIZZAS.

1 recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123) at room temperature Flour for rolling out the dough Cornmeal for dusting 4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 12 ounces fresh ricotta Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 ounces Taleggio, trimmed of rind and cut into -inch cubes 12 large fresh figs (or dried figs, soaked in water at least 30 minutes, drained, and patted dry), cut into quarters 32 medium sage leaves cup freshly grated Parmesan 1 to 2 tablespoons high-quality honey DO AHEAD: Make the dough. Make the dough.

1.Place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500F.

2.Cut the pizza dough into 4 equal pieces and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes.

3.Using plenty of flour, roll a dough ball into a circle about 8 inches in diameter. Push the crust together to thicken it slightly around the edge for a rim. Or, if you want to use your hands instead of a rolling pin, first press the ball flat with your palm. Starting at the center of the disk, use your fingertips to stretch the dough, working outward; try to maintain an even thickness as you work. Leave the dough a little thicker around the edge to form a rim.

4.Transfer the circle to a peel or sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Dimple the dough with your fingertips so it doesn't puff up during baking. Brush 1 teaspoon of the olive oil over the dough or rub it on with your fingertips, leaving a -inch border around the edge.

5.Season the ricotta with salt and pepper. Spread one-quarter of the ricotta over the dough, leaving a -inch border. Distribute one-quarter each of the Taleggio, figs, and sage leaves evenly over the pizza. Sprinkle with one-quarter of the Parmesan.

6.Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the crust is crispy, the topping bubbly and brown. While the first pizza is baking, prepare the second.

7.Remove the pizza from the oven with the peel, or slide it onto a sheet pan, and transfer to a cutting board. Place the second pizza in the oven. Cut the finished pizza into 4 slices, place in a plate, drizzle with honey, and serve. Start working on the third pizza, and repeat the process until you've finished all 4 pizzas.

Five-Cheese Pizza with Caramelized Onions and Truffle Oil As a young cook, I I used to make pizza Margherita, the traditional combination using tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. Over time I experimented, adding other cheeses to the mozzarella and omitting the tomatoes. Eventually I ended up with this pizza, which I called a Margherita Bianca. Some years later I read that the original pizza was named after Queen Margherita of Savoy and the topping reflected the colors of the Italian flag-green, white, and red. Somewhat sheepishly, I changed the name to this one, and vowed to be more scrupulous about my treatment of traditional culinary terms in the future. Regardless of the name, you can't beat this combination of mozzarella, Asiago, fresh ricotta, ricotta salata, and Parmesan. Caramelized onions offer a nice counterpoint to the richness of the cheese. An optional drizzle of truffle oil adds a final luxurious touch. used to make pizza Margherita, the traditional combination using tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. Over time I experimented, adding other cheeses to the mozzarella and omitting the tomatoes. Eventually I ended up with this pizza, which I called a Margherita Bianca. Some years later I read that the original pizza was named after Queen Margherita of Savoy and the topping reflected the colors of the Italian flag-green, white, and red. Somewhat sheepishly, I changed the name to this one, and vowed to be more scrupulous about my treatment of traditional culinary terms in the future. Regardless of the name, you can't beat this combination of mozzarella, Asiago, fresh ricotta, ricotta salata, and Parmesan. Caramelized onions offer a nice counterpoint to the richness of the cheese. An optional drizzle of truffle oil adds a final luxurious touch.

MAKES FOUR 8-INCH THIN-CRUST PIZZAS.

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil 2 large onions, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123), at room temperature Flour for rolling out the dough Cornmeal for dusting 12 ounces fresh ricotta 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano 4 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into -inch slices 4 ounces ricotta salata, cut into -inch dice cup grated Asiago cup freshly grated Parmesan 1 to 2 tablespoons white truffle oil (optional) DO AHEAD: Make the dough and caramelize the onions. Make the dough and caramelize the onions.

1.Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden, caramelized, and sweet, 30 to 40 minutes. Do not let them cook too fast, or they'll dry out and burn rather than caramelize; add a little water if they look too dry. Let them cool before using.

2.As the onions draw close to finishing, place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500F.

3.Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Drape with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes.

4. Using plenty of flour, roll a dough ball into a circle about 8 inches in diameter. Push the crust together to thicken it slightly around the edge for a rim. Or, if you want to use your hands instead of a rolling pin, first press the ball flat with your palm. Starting at the center of the disk, use your fingertips to stretch the dough, working outward; try to maintain an even thickness as you work. Leave the dough a little thicker around the edge to form a rim. Using plenty of flour, roll a dough ball into a circle about 8 inches in diameter. Push the crust together to thicken it slightly around the edge for a rim. Or, if you want to use your hands instead of a rolling pin, first press the ball flat with your palm. Starting at the center of the disk, use your fingertips to stretch the dough, working outward; try to maintain an even thickness as you work. Leave the dough a little thicker around the edge to form a rim.

5.Transfer the circle to a peel or a sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Dimple the dough with your fingertips so it doesn't puff up during baking. Brush 1 teaspoon of the olive oil over the dough or rub it on with your fingertips, leaving a -inch border around the edge.

6.Season the fresh ricotta with salt and pepper. Spread one-quarter of the ricotta over the dough, leaving the border uncovered. Top with one-quarter each of the onions and oregano. Distribute one-quarter of each of the remaining 4 cheeses over the dough.

7.Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone and bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until the crust is crispy, the topping bubbly and brown. While the first pizza is baking, prepare the second.

8.Remove the pizza from the oven with the peel, or slide it onto a sheet pan, and transfer to a cutting board. Place the second pizza in the oven. Cut the finished pizza into 4 slices, place on a plate, drizzle with truffle oil, if using, and serve. Start working on the third pizza, and repeat the process until you've finished all 4 pizzas.

Smoked Salmon Pizza with Mascarpone and Capers These pizzas make an easy first course because the crusts are baked ahead, then the toppings added, making it easy to serve four individual pizzas at the same time. Mascarpone is the gourmand's cream cheese and a great partner for smoked salmon. Think of this as the most heavenly lox and cream cheese you've ever eaten. first course because the crusts are baked ahead, then the toppings added, making it easy to serve four individual pizzas at the same time. Mascarpone is the gourmand's cream cheese and a great partner for smoked salmon. Think of this as the most heavenly lox and cream cheese you've ever eaten.

MAKES FOUR 8-INCH THIN-CRUST PIZZAS.

1 recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123), at room temperature Flour for rolling out the dough Cornmeal for dusting 4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil to 1 pound mascarpone (1 to 2 cups) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 pound thinly sliced smoked salmon 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 4 lemon wedges DO AHEAD: Make the dough. Make the dough.

1.Place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500F.

2.Cut the pizza dough into 4 equal pieces and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Drape with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes.

3.Using plenty of flour, roll a dough ball into a circle about 8 inches in diameter. Push the crust together to thicken it slightly around the edge for a rim. Or, if you want to use your hands instead of a rolling pin, first press the ball flat with your palm. Starting at the center of the disk, use your fingertips to stretch the dough, working outward; try to maintain an even thickness as you work. Leave the dough a little thicker around the edge to form a rim.

4.Transfer the circle to a peel or a sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Dimple the dough with your fingertips so it doesn't puff up during baking. Brush 1 teaspoon olive oil over the dough or rub it on with your fingertips.

5.Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until crispy and golden brown. While the first crust is baking, roll out the second and brush with oil.

6.Remove the crust from the oven with the peel, or slide it onto a sheet pan, and keep warm, uncovered, on top of the oven. Place the next circle of dough in the oven. Start working on the third ball of dough, and repeat the process until you've finished all 4 crusts. Don't stack or cover the finished crusts-they'll get soggy.

7.Spread each warm crust with one-quarter of the mascarpone, leaving a -inch border. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange one-quarter of the salmon on top of each pizza and then sprinkle with the capers, chives, and additional pepper. Garnish each pizza with a lemon wedge, and serve.

Crispy Prosciutto and Parsley Pizza The original Roman or Neapolitan approach to pizza was to fashion a very thin crust in an extremely narrow oval, perhaps four or five times as long as it was wide, to be served to a group of diners on a long thin plank. The pizza was sliced crosswise into pieces that could be folded in half for convenient eating. The topping was often no more than olive oil and a dense dusting of rosemary or oregano, sometimes pared with minimalist shavings of mushrooms or other vegetables, anchovies, prosciutto, or another meat. The point was the brick-baked crust, with just enough topping for a snack to tide you over until you went home, where the really serious eating occurred. approach to pizza was to fashion a very thin crust in an extremely narrow oval, perhaps four or five times as long as it was wide, to be served to a group of diners on a long thin plank. The pizza was sliced crosswise into pieces that could be folded in half for convenient eating. The topping was often no more than olive oil and a dense dusting of rosemary or oregano, sometimes pared with minimalist shavings of mushrooms or other vegetables, anchovies, prosciutto, or another meat. The point was the brick-baked crust, with just enough topping for a snack to tide you over until you went home, where the really serious eating occurred.

MAKES TWO 1020-INCH VERY-THIN-CRUST PIZZAS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123), at room temperature Flour for rolling out the dough Cornmeal for dusting 1 cups coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley cup grated Fontina cup grated Asiago 8 thin slices prosciutto DO AHEAD: Make the dough. Make the dough.

1.Place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500F.

2.Heat the olive oil in a small saute pan over low heat. Add the garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Take care not to let it burn. Let cool.

3.Cut the pizza dough into 2 equal pieces and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Drape with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes.

4.Using plenty of flour, roll one ball of dough into a rough rectangle about 10 inches wide and 20 inches long (or as long a shape as will fit on your pizza stone or sheet pan). If the dough begins tocontract as you try to roll it out, let it rest for 10 minutes to relax, then try rolling itto form a rim.

5. Transfer the dough to a peel or sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Dimple the dough with your fingertips so it doesn't puff up during baking. Spread a tablespoon of the garlic oil and half the garlic over the dough. Then sprinkle half the parsley over the dough. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle half of each cheese over the parsley. Transfer the dough to a peel or sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Dimple the dough with your fingertips so it doesn't puff up during baking. Spread a tablespoon of the garlic oil and half the garlic over the dough. Then sprinkle half the parsley over the dough. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle half of each cheese over the parsley.

6. Slide the pizza onto the stone or place the sheet pan in the oven, and bake until the crust is starting to turn brown and crispy, about 5 minutes. Top with half the prosciutto and bake for an additional 5 minutes, or until the prosciutto is starting to crisp. Remove from the oven, transfer to a serving plate, and cut into 8 slices. Slide the pizza onto the stone or place the sheet pan in the oven, and bake until the crust is starting to turn brown and crispy, about 5 minutes. Top with half the prosciutto and bake for an additional 5 minutes, or until the prosciutto is starting to crisp. Remove from the oven, transfer to a serving plate, and cut into 8 slices.

7. Drizzle the pizza with a teaspoon of the garlic oil and serve. Repeat the procedure with the second ball of dough and the remaining ingredients. Drizzle the pizza with a teaspoon of the garlic oil and serve. Repeat the procedure with the second ball of dough and the remaining ingredients.

Tarte Flambee with Caramelized Onions, Smoked Bacon, and Creamy Cheese Contrary to what its name might lead you to expect, this tart isn't flambeed. The "flaming" refers to the burnt edges of this thin Alsatian flatbread, made from pizza dough and strewn with onions and bacon. In the original version, the raw ingredients were tossed over the dough with a little cheese and cooked rapidly in the hot brick oven of the town baker. Somewhere along the line-presumably in more prosperous times-a dollop of rich cheese was thrown into the mixture. Taking the time to caramelize the onions and crisping the bacon beforehand transforms the tart into an even richer, more luxurious dish. might lead you to expect, this tart isn't flambeed. The "flaming" refers to the burnt edges of this thin Alsatian flatbread, made from pizza dough and strewn with onions and bacon. In the original version, the raw ingredients were tossed over the dough with a little cheese and cooked rapidly in the hot brick oven of the town baker. Somewhere along the line-presumably in more prosperous times-a dollop of rich cheese was thrown into the mixture. Taking the time to caramelize the onions and crisping the bacon beforehand transforms the tart into an even richer, more luxurious dish.

MAKES FOUR 10-INCH TARTS.

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil 2 large onions, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 to 12 strips meaty smoked bacon 6 ounces (about cup) fromage blanc (or soft cream cheese, if fromage blanc is unavailable) 3 ounces ( cup) mascarpone 3 ounces ( cup) creme fraiche 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling out the dough 1 recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123), at room temperature Cornmeal for dusting DO AHEAD: Make the dough and caramelize the onions. Make the dough and caramelize the onions.

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden, caramelized, and sweet, 30 to 40 minutes. Do not let them cook too fast, or they'll dry out and burn rather than caramelize; add a little water if they look too dry. Let them cool before using. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden, caramelized, and sweet, 30 to 40 minutes. Do not let them cook too fast, or they'll dry out and burn rather than caramelize; add a little water if they look too dry. Let them cool before using.

2.While the onions are caramelizing, cook the bacon in a second large saute pan over medium heat just until it starts to become crispy but some of the fat still remains. Transfer to a rack and allow to cool.

3.Cut the bacon crosswise into -inch-wide strips. Mix the fromage blanc, mascarpone, creme fraiche, and flour together. Season with salt and pepper.

4.Place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500F.

5.Cut the pizza dough into 4 equal pieces and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Drape with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes.

6.Using plenty of flour, roll one of the b.a.l.l.s of dough into a circle 10 to 11 inches in diameter. Push the crust together to thicken it slightly around the edge for a rim. Transfer the circle to a peel or sheet pan sprinkled with cornmeal. Dimple the dough with your fingertips so it doesn't puff up during baking. Brush 1 teaspoon of the olive oil over the dough or rub it on with your fingertips, leaving a -inch border around the edge.

7. Spread one-quarter of the cheese mixture evenly over the dough. Then spread one-quarter of the onions evenly over the cheese. Distribute one-quarter of the bacon over the onions. Spread one-quarter of the cheese mixture evenly over the dough. Then spread one-quarter of the onions evenly over the cheese. Distribute one-quarter of the bacon over the onions.

8.Slide the tart onto the stone and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the bacon is crispy, the cheese bubbles, and the crust is a deep golden brown. While the first tart is baking, prepare the second.

9.Remove the tart from the oven with the peel, or slide it onto a sheet pan, and transfer to a cutting board. Place the next tart in the oven. Cut the finished tart into 4 slices, place on a plate, and serve immediately. Start working on the third tart, and repeat the process until you've finished all 4 tarts.

Phyllo Tarts with Smoky Eggplant, Bulgur, and Roasted Red Peppers I love layering flavors and textures love layering flavors and textures in tarts-crispy, creamy, or crunchy, salty, sweet, or hot. The smoky flavor in this tart comes from Aleppo pepper, available in the Middle Eastern section of many supermarkets and in specialty markets. If you can't find it, you can subst.i.tute a combination of hot red pepper flakes and paprika. in tarts-crispy, creamy, or crunchy, salty, sweet, or hot. The smoky flavor in this tart comes from Aleppo pepper, available in the Middle Eastern section of many supermarkets and in specialty markets. If you can't find it, you can subst.i.tute a combination of hot red pepper flakes and paprika.

Prepare the bulgur and eggplant a day in advance if you like. Baked phyllo becomes soggy as it absorbs moisture from the air, especially in humid environments. If you bake the tarts within a few hours of serving, they should be fine; any longer, and you may need to crisp them for a few minutes in a 400F oven. This is a great item to serve when some of your guests don't eat meat.

MAKES FOUR 56-INCH TARTS.

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice cup coa.r.s.e bulgur wheat, rinsed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup finely chopped walnuts 3 ounces feta, crumbled 2 medium eggplants (about 1pound total) 2 garlic cloves, minced and then mashed with a pinch of salt to a paste 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 4 scallions, trimmed and sliced paper-thin cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or teaspoon hot red pepper flakes plus teaspoon paprika) teaspoon paprika) 4 sheets phyllo dough 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted cup grated Asiago 1 red pepper, roasted (see page 99), peeled, seeded, stemmed, and cut into -inch strips 1.Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the bulgur, teaspoon salt, and teaspoon salt, and cup water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until all the water has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Let cool, then season with salt and pepper and stir in the walnuts and feta. cup water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until all the water has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Let cool, then season with salt and pepper and stir in the walnuts and feta.

2.Preheat the broiler. Put the eggplants on a baking sheet pan and poke them several times with a fork so they don't explode while cooking. Place the pan under the broiler. Turn the eggplants as the skin blackens so they cook evenly. Broil until they are thoroughly blackened and the flesh is very tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool.

3.As soon as the eggplants are cool enough to handle, cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh. Discard the skin. Finely chop the flesh. Mix the eggplant with the garlic, red wine vinegar, the remaining cup olive oil, the scallions, parsley, mint, and Aleppo pepper. Season with salt.

4.Preheat the oven to 425F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

5.Lay a sheet of phyllo dough on the counter. Keep the others from drying out by covering with plastic wrap. Brush the sheet with a thin layer of melted b.u.t.ter. Fold the sheet crosswise in half. Brush again with a thin layer of b.u.t.ter. Fold crosswise in half again, brush with b.u.t.ter, and then fold in half again, so you have a rectangle, measuring about 56 inches. Place the folded phyllo on the parchment-lined sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining sheets of phyllo.

6.Cover each phyllo rectangle with one-quarter of the bulgur mixture. Cover the bulgur with the eggplant mixture and then sprinkle with the Asiago. Garnish the tops with crisscrossing strips of roasted red pepper.

7.Bake the tarts until the phyllo is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving. They're also good at room temperature.

Spring Vegetable Crostata Many savory crostatas depend on root vegetables for substance. This recipe takes the dish in a lighter direction with tender spring vegetables-blanched scallions, fresh peas, and wilted lettuce. Although cooked lettuce is almost unheard of in this country, it's delicious with cream or a rich cheese like mascarpone. Make sure the other vegetables are thoroughly cooked, since the crostata spends only enough time in the oven for the pastry to bake and the custard to set. Once you learn this basic technique, try experimenting with equivalent amounts of beet greens, escarole, string beans, or other soft vegetables of your choice. root vegetables for substance. This recipe takes the dish in a lighter direction with tender spring vegetables-blanched scallions, fresh peas, and wilted lettuce. Although cooked lettuce is almost unheard of in this country, it's delicious with cream or a rich cheese like mascarpone. Make sure the other vegetables are thoroughly cooked, since the crostata spends only enough time in the oven for the pastry to bake and the custard to set. Once you learn this basic technique, try experimenting with equivalent amounts of beet greens, escarole, string beans, or other soft vegetables of your choice.

MAKES 4 TO 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

12 ounces mascarpone (1 cups) 3 extra-large egg yolks Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 2 tablespoons chopped fresh savory or thyme 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 cup fresh peas 12 medium asparagus spears, tough ends snapped off, stems peeled, and cut on the diagonal into 2-inch lengths 2tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 bunch scallions, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 2-inch lengths 1 head Boston lettuce, cut into 8 wedges, washed, and dried well 1 recipe Basic Pastry Dough (page 343), chilled 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 1.Mix the mascarpone with the egg yolks in a medium bowl and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the herbs and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate.

2.Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While the water heats, prepare a large bowl of ice water. As soon as the water boils, add the peas and blanch for 1 minute. Scoop a pea out of the boiling water and plunge it into the ice water to stop the cooking. Taste it. If it's tender, scoop out the remaining peas and put them in the ice water; if it's not quite done, let the others cook for another 30 seconds before removing them.

3.Add the asparagus to the boiling water and blanch for 3 3 minutes. Test an asparagus stalk. Depending on their size, the asparagus may need to cook for as much as another minute. When tender scoop out of the boiling water and plunge into the ice water. Drain the vegetables and spin or pat dry. minutes. Test an asparagus stalk. Depending on their size, the asparagus may need to cook for as much as another minute. When tender scoop out of the boiling water and plunge into the ice water. Drain the vegetables and spin or pat dry.

4.Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the scallions, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the lettuce, season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the lettuce is wilted and tender, about 3 minutes. Uncover the pan, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook off any water, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool.

5.Place the pastry dough on a lightly floured surface and roll it into a 16-inch circle, about inch thick. Fold it into quarters, transfer it to a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, and unfold. Spread the cool scallion-lettuce mixture over the pastry, leaving a 2-inch border. Arrange the peas and asparagus over it. Pull up the edges of the pastry and gently fold them over the vegetables into a rim. Pleat the dough as necessary but do not crimp. Place the crostata in the refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes.

6. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

7.Remove the crostata from the refrigerator and pour the mascarpone mixture over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the Parmesan. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and crisp.

8.Let rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges and serve.

Caramelized Squash, Pear, and Blue Cheese Crostata On Sunday nights, Boston chef Gordon Hammersley used to emulate a practice of French family restaurants. In place of the formal Hammersley's Bistro menu, he offered a shorter selection of economical "Sunday Suppers. " It was a great deal all around. Patrons loved the lowered prices and the almost theatrical suspense of never knowing exactly what would be on the menu. As a sous-chef then, I couldn't have asked for a better crash course in menu writing. Crostatas evolved into something of a personal specialty with me, as a way of using seasonal ingredients in a rustic, efficient way. Caramelized squash and pears with blue cheese was at the top of my list of favorite fillings. In this case, the pears and squash are sauteed and glazed to save time, but the recipe is a good template for just about any combination of slow-roasted root vegetables, especially carrots or beets, or sweet potatoes, whose natural sugars caramelize during roasting. Gordon Hammersley used to emulate a practice of French family restaurants. In place of the formal Hammersley's Bistro menu, he offered a shorter selection of economical "Sunday Suppers. " It was a great deal all around. Patrons loved the lowered prices and the almost theatrical suspense of never knowing exactly what would be on the menu. As a sous-chef then, I couldn't have asked for a better crash course in menu writing. Crostatas evolved into something of a personal specialty with me, as a way of using seasonal ingredients in a rustic, efficient way. Caramelized squash and pears with blue cheese was at the top of my list of favorite fillings. In this case, the pears and squash are sauteed and glazed to save time, but the recipe is a good template for just about any combination of slow-roasted root vegetables, especially carrots or beets, or sweet potatoes, whose natural sugars caramelize during roasting.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 recipe Basic Pastry Dough (page 343), chilled 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 pounds orange winter squash such as b.u.t.ternut, delicata, or Hubbard, peeled, seeded, and cut into -inch-thick slices Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground allspice 4 ripe pears, peeled, cored, and cut into eighths 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 2 leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit pound (5 ounces) Gorgonzola (or your favorite high-quality blue cheese, such as Great Hill Blue or Stilton), crumbled 1. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 16-inch circle, about. inch thick. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Fold the dough into quarters, transfer it to the sheet pan, and unfold. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 16-inch circle, about. inch thick. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Fold the dough into quarters, transfer it to the sheet pan, and unfold. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2.Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the squash slices, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the squash is tender and golden brown, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the allspice. Toss until the sugar has melted and caramelized on the squash. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3.Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a second large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pears and cook until golden and tender, about 12 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and toss until the sugar has melted and caramelized on the pears. Add the vinegar and season generously with pepper. Set aside.

4.Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Let cool.

5.Preheat the oven to 375F.

6.Remove the pastry circle from the refrigerator. Spread the cooked leeks on the circle, leaving a 2-inch border. Alternate the squash and pears over the leeks spoke fashion. Pull up the edges of the crust and gently flip them over the filling to form a wide, rustic edge. Pleat the dough as necessary but do not crimp.

7.Bake the tart until the crust is crisp and golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Sprinkle the blue cheese over the top of the tart and bake for an additional 5 minutes.

8.Let rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges and serve.

Pam's Tomato, Basil, and Parmesan Tarts Some combinations-crust, tomatoes, basil, a little cheese, and olive oil-seem to transcend cultural limitations. Everyone who encounters the ingredients seems somehow compelled to combine them in similar ways. My good friend-and recipe tester-Pam Krueger introduced me to these tarts. a little cheese, and olive oil-seem to transcend cultural limitations. Everyone who encounters the ingredients seems somehow compelled to combine them in similar ways. My good friend-and recipe tester-Pam Krueger introduced me to these tarts.

This version uses basic unsweetened pastry dough, but you can clearly apply the same combination to puff pastry, phyllo, or even pizza dough; you'll need about 12 ounces of dough. The recipe easily doubles or triples. Time is your only limitation.

MAKES FOUR 34-INCH TARTS.

1 recipe Basic Pastry Dough (page 343), chilled recipe Basic Pastry Dough (page 343), chilled cup freshly grated Parmesan 24 beautiful basil leaves 8 ripe plum tomatoes, sliced inch thick 2 shallots, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil DO AHEAD: Make the dough. Make the dough.

1.Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces and shape into disks. Roll each disk into a rough 64-inch rectangle, about inch thick, on a floured surface. Transfer the dough to the sheet pan. Drape with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. inch thick, on a floured surface. Transfer the dough to the sheet pan. Drape with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2.Preheat the oven to 425F.

3.Remove the dough from the refrigerator and sprinkle with half the cheese. Lay 6 basil leaves on each rectangle. Toss the tomatoes with the shallots and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Lay the tomatoes, overlapping them, atop the basil leaves. Drizzle with the olive oil. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese.

4. Bake for 25 minutes, or until each crust is crisp and golden brown and the tomatoes are soft. Serve hot or at room temperature. Bake for 25 minutes, or until each crust is crisp and golden brown and the tomatoes are soft. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Mostly Pasta, WITH A TASTE OF GNOCCHI, POLENTA, AND RISOTTO.

Italians have a culinary genius for transforming ordinary starches into sensual treasures. In goes flour, potatoes, cornmeal, or rice; out comes pasta, gnocchi, polenta, or risotto. None of these skills is difficult to learn, unless you forswear the use of all kitchen machines. for transforming ordinary starches into sensual treasures. In goes flour, potatoes, cornmeal, or rice; out comes pasta, gnocchi, polenta, or risotto. None of these skills is difficult to learn, unless you forswear the use of all kitchen machines.

This chapter includes instructions for making gnocchi, polenta, and a single risotto, but the emphasis is on pasta. Preparing pasta dough and rolling it out with nothing more than a rolling pin is a true skill, and people who are good at it are a wonder to behold, but I suggest an easier route. Mix the dough with a food processor, then employ an inexpensive hand-cranked pasta machine to knead and roll the dough into sheets of fresh pasta. At home, you can roll your pasta sheets far thinner (and make more delicate ravioli) than boutique pasta stores can. Pappardelle and tagliatelle, lasagna made with fresh noodles, exquisitely delicate ravioli, and a variety of "hand-folded" pasta dishes like fazzoletti like fazzoletti (handkerchiefs) or (handkerchiefs) or nidimi nidimi (little nests) flow from the ability to make fresh noodles. (little nests) flow from the ability to make fresh noodles.

Being able to make your own fettuccine or pappardelle can also come in handy with leftovers. The remains of any dish of braised meat can be transformed into a new meal by being used as a sauce for fresh pasta.

All of the recipes in this chapter cultivate your ability to pay attention. Italians have taught us to eat pasta a little chewier than we used to. Risotto is supposed to have a little resistance left in the grains; potato gnocchi are done when they're cooked through with just a hint of resilience in them. You have to taste and make a judgment. Timings like "3 to 5 minutes, " "about 10 minutes, " etc., should be taken as guides, not inflexible rules. With a little experience, you can sense when things are nearing completion. The process is akin to grilling a steak and relying on an instant-read digital thermometer. If you press the steak with your finger each time you take a reading, after a while you'll be able to tell from how the meat feels whether it's time to remove it from the grill. The same is true of these dishes. Learn to judge doneness by how the pasta or gnocchi feels in your mouth; use times only as a general guideline.