In The Hands Of A Chef Part 10

3. Mix the cream cheese with the mushrooms, then add the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and spinach. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use. Mix the cream cheese with the mushrooms, then add the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and spinach. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use.

4. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on page 143, until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out sixteen 4-inch squares. Discard the pasta sc.r.a.ps. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on page 143, until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out sixteen 4-inch squares. Discard the pasta sc.r.a.ps.

6. Beat 1 of the eggs with 1 tablespoon water to form an egg wash. Brush the edges of 1 pasta square with the egg wash. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture in the center of the pasta and make a well in the mixture. Crack an egg into a teacup, taking care not to break the yolk. Pour the yolk and about half the white into the well in the filling. (Discard the remaining egg white or reserve for another purpose.) Season with salt and pepper. Cover with a second sheet of pasta and gently push out as much air as possible. Seal the edges with your fingertips or the tines of a fork. Set the ravioli aside on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat the process to make 7 more ravioli. Beat 1 of the eggs with 1 tablespoon water to form an egg wash. Brush the edges of 1 pasta square with the egg wash. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture in the center of the pasta and make a well in the mixture. Crack an egg into a teacup, taking care not to break the yolk. Pour the yolk and about half the white into the well in the filling. (Discard the remaining egg white or reserve for another purpose.) Season with salt and pepper. Cover with a second sheet of pasta and gently push out as much air as possible. Seal the edges with your fingertips or the tines of a fork. Set the ravioli aside on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat the process to make 7 more ravioli.

7. Lay the pancetta slices on a sheet pan and bake until crispy, about 6 minutes. Keep warm. Lay the pancetta slices on a sheet pan and bake until crispy, about 6 minutes. Keep warm.

8. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Slip the ravioli into the water. Cook, stirring gently several times, until done. To test for doneness, cut a small bit of pasta off the edge of a ravioli and taste to see that the pasta is cooked through; 5 minutes is usually long enough to cook the ravioli and the eggs while leaving the yolks still runny. Cook longer for a firmer yolk. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Slip the ravioli into the water. Cook, stirring gently several times, until done. To test for doneness, cut a small bit of pasta off the edge of a ravioli and taste to see that the pasta is cooked through; 5 minutes is usually long enough to cook the ravioli and the eggs while leaving the yolks still runny. Cook longer for a firmer yolk.

9. While the ravioli are cooking, melt the 4 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter with the sprig of thyme over medium heat in a small saute pan. Season with salt and pepper and lower the heat to keep warm. While the ravioli are cooking, melt the 4 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter with the sprig of thyme over medium heat in a small saute pan. Season with salt and pepper and lower the heat to keep warm.

10. Scoop the ravioli out of the pot with a slotted spoon and place 2 ravioli on each plate. Allowing some of the pasta water to cling to the ravioli will help the cheese to stick as well as keep the pasta moist. Drizzle with the thyme b.u.t.ter (discard the sprig of thyme). Arrange the pancetta slices on top of the ravioli. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley and serve. Scoop the ravioli out of the pot with a slotted spoon and place 2 ravioli on each plate. Allowing some of the pasta water to cling to the ravioli will help the cheese to stick as well as keep the pasta moist. Drizzle with the thyme b.u.t.ter (discard the sprig of thyme). Arrange the pancetta slices on top of the ravioli. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley and serve.

Ravioli Bundles of Roasted Beets with Walnuts, Poppy Seeds, and Garlic Cream A Venetian recipe for beets with Venetian recipe for beets with nuts gave me the idea for these ravioli "party favors. " I a.s.sumed that they would taste good, but I was unprepared for how beautiful they are. Some of the juice from the beet filling seeps through the translucent pasta dough and creates a lovely ruby splash against the white poppy seed cream. This dish is truly a jewel. You can easily double the recipe and serve it as a sophisticated main course for a late night supper or special lunch. nuts gave me the idea for these ravioli "party favors. " I a.s.sumed that they would taste good, but I was unprepared for how beautiful they are. Some of the juice from the beet filling seeps through the translucent pasta dough and creates a lovely ruby splash against the white poppy seed cream. This dish is truly a jewel. You can easily double the recipe and serve it as a sophisticated main course for a late night supper or special lunch.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) FILLING AND SAUCE.

pound beets cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 shallot, minced 2 tablespoons ricotta 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil 2 to 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 8 garlic cloves, peeled 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon poppy seeds 4 teaspoons chopped toasted walnuts 4 beautiful basil leaves for garnish DO AHEAD: Roast the beets. Roast the beets.

1. Following the directions on page 143, roll out half the dough to ravioli thinness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Cut into eight 34-inch rectangles. Transfer the rectangles to a kitchen towel dusted with flour. Reserve the remaining dough for another use (or roll it into sheets and hand-cut it into irregular shapes. Refrigerate to use in soup or broth the next day.) These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they will be cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're preparing the rest of the recipe, it's okay. Following the directions on page 143, roll out half the dough to ravioli thinness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Cut into eight 34-inch rectangles. Transfer the rectangles to a kitchen towel dusted with flour. Reserve the remaining dough for another use (or roll it into sheets and hand-cut it into irregular shapes. Refrigerate to use in soup or broth the next day.) These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they will be cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're preparing the rest of the recipe, it's okay.

2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

3. Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a small roasting pan and roast for an hour or so, or until tender all the way through. Allow to cool, then peel (see page 103). Leave the oven on. Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a small roasting pan and roast for an hour or so, or until tender all the way through. Allow to cool, then peel (see page 103). Leave the oven on.

4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Let cool. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Let cool.

5. Puree the beets in a food processor. Add the ricotta and process to mix well. Transfer to a bowl and add half the shallots, all the chopped basil, and 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Puree the beets in a food processor. Add the ricotta and process to mix well. Transfer to a bowl and add half the shallots, all the chopped basil, and 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Season with salt, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again. Put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Season with salt, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again.

7. Heat the cream and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming the foam and impurities, until the cream has reduced by one-quarter. Transfer the reduced cream and garlic to a blender and puree. Return the garlic cream to the pan. Add the balsamic vinegar, the remaining shallots, and the poppy seeds. Simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat before serving. Heat the cream and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming the foam and impurities, until the cream has reduced by one-quarter. Transfer the reduced cream and garlic to a blender and puree. Return the garlic cream to the pan. Add the balsamic vinegar, the remaining shallots, and the poppy seeds. Simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat before serving.

8. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and cook through, about 1 minute. Shock in the ice water, then drain. Lay the pasta sheets on the sheet pan. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and cook through, about 1 minute. Shock in the ice water, then drain. Lay the pasta sheets on the sheet pan.

9. Put a spoonful of beet filling in the center of each pasta sheet. Roll up starting from a long side and twist the ends to form a bundle. Arrange the bundles side by side on the baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Put a spoonful of beet filling in the center of each pasta sheet. Roll up starting from a long side and twist the ends to form a bundle. Arrange the bundles side by side on the baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

10. Bake the bundles for 8 minutes, or until heated through. Bake the bundles for 8 minutes, or until heated through.

11. Stir 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan into the sauce. Pour a pool of sauce into the center of each of four warm plates. Arrange 2 bundles on each plate. Sprinkle with the walnuts and a little more Parmesan. Garnish each plate with a basil leaf and serve. Stir 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan into the sauce. Pour a pool of sauce into the center of each of four warm plates. Arrange 2 bundles on each plate. Sprinkle with the walnuts and a little more Parmesan. Garnish each plate with a basil leaf and serve.

Nidimi-"Little Nests" Stuffed with Prosciutto, Fontina, and Spinach Emilia-Romagna is famed for its stuffed pasta dishes, and it was there I saw my first "little nests. " The stuffed pasta dishes, and it was there I saw my first "little nests. " The nidimi nidimi were chunky pasta bundles, thick as cuc.u.mbers, standing upright in a red pool of smooth tomato sauce, with swirls of green herbed ricotta visible in the upright end, spiraling hypnotically between layers of pasta. The dish immediately struck me as a more elegant, sophisticated take on manicotti, those humble pasta tubes stuffed with a meat or cheese filling. were chunky pasta bundles, thick as cuc.u.mbers, standing upright in a red pool of smooth tomato sauce, with swirls of green herbed ricotta visible in the upright end, spiraling hypnotically between layers of pasta. The dish immediately struck me as a more elegant, sophisticated take on manicotti, those humble pasta tubes stuffed with a meat or cheese filling.

Since then I've applied all kinds of fillings to nidimi; as long as the filling is flat and flexible (like slices of cured meat or grilled eggplant) or easily spread, it will usually work. The trick is to roll the nidimi tightly and reheat them carefully so they don't dry out. One of my favorites is made with grilled eggplant, peppers, spinach, and feta and served with a spicy tomato sauce. This particular version takes the cla.s.sic tagliatelle accompaniments of prosciutto, spinach, and Fontina and reconfigures them as nidimi with a Parmesan cream sauce.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) Kosher salt FILLING.

8 paper-thin slices prosciutto (about pound) 3 ounces flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried pound semisoft Italian cheese, such as Fontina, fresh Asiago, or Taleggio, thinly sliced SAUCE.

1 cup light cream cup freshly grated Parmesan Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil cup fresh or frozen peas, blanched briefly in boiling salted water 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 teaspoons minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you like, from simply cooking the pasta sheets to completely filling and rolling the pasta. I like to do everything ahead, leaving only the sauce and the final heating of the nidimi for the day of serving. You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you like, from simply cooking the pasta sheets to completely filling and rolling the pasta. I like to do everything ahead, leaving only the sauce and the final heating of the nidimi for the day of serving.

1. Following the directions on page 143, roll the dough out in sheets 6 inches wide. Roll the sheets to noodle thickness (the #6 setting). You don't need to let the pasta dry before cutting it. Using a pastry wheel, cut 4 rectangles, each measuring 68 inches. Discard the rest of the pasta. Following the directions on page 143, roll the dough out in sheets 6 inches wide. Roll the sheets to noodle thickness (the #6 setting). You don't need to let the pasta dry before cutting it. Using a pastry wheel, cut 4 rectangles, each measuring 68 inches. Discard the rest of the pasta.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the pasta sheets and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is cooked, but still firm, about 1 minute-it's going to bake, so it should still have a little bite to it. Transfer the sheets to the ice bath to cool, stirring them around in the cold water so they don't stick together. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the pasta sheets and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is cooked, but still firm, about 1 minute-it's going to bake, so it should still have a little bite to it. Transfer the sheets to the ice bath to cool, stirring them around in the cold water so they don't stick together.

3. Drain each sheet individually in a colander for a minute, then shake off the excess water and lay it on a piece of plastic wrap on a flat work surface. Lay the sheets out so a narrow end of each is toward you. Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long they'll stick together. Blot any excess water off the pasta with a paper towel. (If you're going to a.s.semble the nidimi later, stack the sheets on top of each other, with a layer of oiled plastic wrap between each one, and on the top and bottom as well. Refrigerate until ready to use.) Drain each sheet individually in a colander for a minute, then shake off the excess water and lay it on a piece of plastic wrap on a flat work surface. Lay the sheets out so a narrow end of each is toward you. Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long they'll stick together. Blot any excess water off the pasta with a paper towel. (If you're going to a.s.semble the nidimi later, stack the sheets on top of each other, with a layer of oiled plastic wrap between each one, and on the top and bottom as well. Refrigerate until ready to use.) 4. Arrange the prosciutto in a single layer over the sheets of pasta, leaving an empty 2-inch border along the short side farthest from you. Follow the prosciutto with a heavy layer of spinach and then a layer of cheese. The cheese won't cover the spinach completely; just make sure you distribute it as evenly as possible. The next step is to roll up the pasta sheets and filling: Starting at the short edge close to you, roll up each sheet as tightly as you can without tearing the pasta. (Take care not to roll up the plastic wrap with the pasta.) The uncovered strip of pasta will stick to the roll, sealing it. Arrange the prosciutto in a single layer over the sheets of pasta, leaving an empty 2-inch border along the short side farthest from you. Follow the prosciutto with a heavy layer of spinach and then a layer of cheese. The cheese won't cover the spinach completely; just make sure you distribute it as evenly as possible. The next step is to roll up the pasta sheets and filling: Starting at the short edge close to you, roll up each sheet as tightly as you can without tearing the pasta. (Take care not to roll up the plastic wrap with the pasta.) The uncovered strip of pasta will stick to the roll, sealing it.

5. Cut each roll into 3 even pieces, making your cuts straight across the rolls-each piece of nidimi needs to be able to stand upright. (The nidimi can be made up to this point and refrigerated overnight.) Cut each roll into 3 even pieces, making your cuts straight across the rolls-each piece of nidimi needs to be able to stand upright. (The nidimi can be made up to this point and refrigerated overnight.) 6. Preheat the oven to 425F. Preheat the oven to 425F.

7. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. As soon as the cream is warm, whisk in the Parmesan and keep whisking until it has completely melted. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. As soon as the cream is warm, whisk in the Parmesan and keep whisking until it has completely melted. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

8. Brush a baking dish with extra virgin olive oil. Stand the nidimi on their ends in the baking dish. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons water around the nidimi. Cover the nidimi with a layer of plastic wrap (tuck the edges inside the dish) and a layer of foil (crimped over the edges of the dish). Bake until the rolls are hot and the cheese has started to melt, about 15 minutes. Brush a baking dish with extra virgin olive oil. Stand the nidimi on their ends in the baking dish. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons water around the nidimi. Cover the nidimi with a layer of plastic wrap (tuck the edges inside the dish) and a layer of foil (crimped over the edges of the dish). Bake until the rolls are hot and the cheese has started to melt, about 15 minutes.

9. Add the peas, lemon juice, and herbs to the sauce and warm through. Make a small pool of sauce on each of four warmed plates. Arrange 3 nidimi in the center of each plate. Serve immediately. Add the peas, lemon juice, and herbs to the sauce and warm through. Make a small pool of sauce on each of four warmed plates. Arrange 3 nidimi in the center of each plate. Serve immediately.

Fazzoletti-"Handkerchiefs" with Lemon Cream, Pistachios, Spinach, and Slow-Roasted Tomatoes Fazzoletti, handkerchiefs in Italian, is a reference to the similarity between these folded pasta sheets and the dapper two- or three-pointer that used to grace the breast pockets of men's suit coats. A couple of generations from now, will anyone still make the connection? I latched on to this dish because it's a quick and elegant alternative to ravioli. The spinach is put in the center of large pasta squares, then each square is folded in half to make a triangle, then folded again to make a smaller triangle. The "handkerchiefs" are then baked briefly in a lemon cream with the slow-roasted tomatoes and pistachios. It almost makes you wish for the return of snap-brim fedoras. in Italian, is a reference to the similarity between these folded pasta sheets and the dapper two- or three-pointer that used to grace the breast pockets of men's suit coats. A couple of generations from now, will anyone still make the connection? I latched on to this dish because it's a quick and elegant alternative to ravioli. The spinach is put in the center of large pasta squares, then each square is folded in half to make a triangle, then folded again to make a smaller triangle. The "handkerchiefs" are then baked briefly in a lemon cream with the slow-roasted tomatoes and pistachios. It almost makes you wish for the return of snap-brim fedoras.

If you don't have any slow-roasted tomatoes, you can subst.i.tute regular cherry tomatoes, but the effect will be milder.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 3 medium shallots, 1 minced, 2 thinly sliced 1 cup heavy cream Grated zest of 1 lemon Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) recipe Slow-Roasted Tomatoes (page 117), using 12 cherry tomatoes or 6 plum tomatoes 2 tablespoons pistachios, toasted (see page 16) and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup freshly grated Parmesan 1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and lemon zest and simmer until reduced by one-quarter. Skim off the foam that collects on top of the cream. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and lemon zest and simmer until reduced by one-quarter. Skim off the foam that collects on top of the cream. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

2. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced shallots and cook until they just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes (they'll cook faster than the other shallot because the pan is hotter). Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and stir until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced shallots and cook until they just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes (they'll cook faster than the other shallot because the pan is hotter). Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and stir until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.

3. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on pages 142-43 until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out 12 squares measuring 5 to 6 inches on a side. Discard the rest of the pasta. These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they're cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're bringing the water to a boil, it's okay. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on pages 142-43 until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out 12 squares measuring 5 to 6 inches on a side. Discard the rest of the pasta. These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they're cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're bringing the water to a boil, it's okay.

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Season with salt and add the pasta squares to the boiling water, stirring constantly, until cooked, about 1 minute. Scoop the pasta squares out of the pot and plunge them into the ice water, stirring until cool. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Season with salt and add the pasta squares to the boiling water, stirring constantly, until cooked, about 1 minute. Scoop the pasta squares out of the pot and plunge them into the ice water, stirring until cool.

5. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

6. If using plum tomatoes, cut each half into 4 pieces. Coat the bottom of a shallow 2-quart gratin dish with cup of the lemon cream. Distribute 12 cherry tomato halves or 12 pieces of plum tomatoes over the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the pistachios. If using plum tomatoes, cut each half into 4 pieces. Coat the bottom of a shallow 2-quart gratin dish with cup of the lemon cream. Distribute 12 cherry tomato halves or 12 pieces of plum tomatoes over the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the pistachios.

7. Remove the pasta squares from the cold water, drain, and lay them out on a flat work surface covered with plastic wrap. Put a spoonful of spinach in the center of each square. To make the fazzoletti, fold each square in half to make a triangle, then fold in half again to make a smaller triangle. Arrange the fazzoletti in overlapping rows in the gratin dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the pasta. Scatter the remaining tomatoes over the top, and sprinkle with the remaining pistachios and the Parmesan. Remove the pasta squares from the cold water, drain, and lay them out on a flat work surface covered with plastic wrap. Put a spoonful of spinach in the center of each square. To make the fazzoletti, fold each square in half to make a triangle, then fold in half again to make a smaller triangle. Arrange the fazzoletti in overlapping rows in the gratin dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the pasta. Scatter the remaining tomatoes over the top, and sprinkle with the remaining pistachios and the Parmesan.

8. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the fazzoletti are brown and crispy. Serve immediately. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the fazzoletti are brown and crispy. Serve immediately.

Semolina Gnocchi with Red Wine Mushroom Sauce and Roasted Marrowbones Semolina gnocchi, with their light, puffy texture, cheesy crust, and pa.s.sage from the stovetop to the oven seem more related to polenta (which is also cooked on top of the stove, allowed to firm up, and then may be baked) than to cla.s.sic potato gnocchi, which are poached. For sheer versatility, they have few rivals. Accompanied by a red wine and mushroom sauce, as in this recipe, they serve as an elegant first course; without the sauce, they're a side dish for rabbit or veal. At home, my husband likes them as a main course, either with this sauce or a wild mushroom ragout. You can even serve them as an hors d'oeuvre-cut them into canape-sized diamonds, top with cheese, and bake without layering. puffy texture, cheesy crust, and pa.s.sage from the stovetop to the oven seem more related to polenta (which is also cooked on top of the stove, allowed to firm up, and then may be baked) than to cla.s.sic potato gnocchi, which are poached. For sheer versatility, they have few rivals. Accompanied by a red wine and mushroom sauce, as in this recipe, they serve as an elegant first course; without the sauce, they're a side dish for rabbit or veal. At home, my husband likes them as a main course, either with this sauce or a wild mushroom ragout. You can even serve them as an hors d'oeuvre-cut them into canape-sized diamonds, top with cheese, and bake without layering.

I've simplified the traditional marrow and mushroom sauce by creating a separate easy recipe for Roasted Marrowbones. Most people's experiences with marrow are confined to os...o...b..co, but in this dish you get a beef bone three times the size of an ordinary veal shank, with a triple portion of marrow. The marrowbones require very little effort and the marrow is such a creamy treat when spooned over the gnocchi that you owe it to yourself to try them. If you double the gnocchi recipe (use a shallow oval 2-quart ca.s.serole dish instead of a pie plate to bake the gnocchi) and add the marrowbones, you will have a stylish entree.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER OR, WITHOUT THE SAUCE, SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

GNOCCHI.

2 cups milk Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup semolina flour cup freshly grated Parmesan 1 extra-large egg yolk 1 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature SAUCE.

2 to 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 shallots, minced pound domestic or wild mushrooms, cleaned and coa.r.s.ely chopped into -inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup dry red wine 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 5 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 recipe Roasted Marrowbones (recipe follows; optional) DO AHEAD: Soak the marrowbones a day before roasting in order to draw out the blood. Both the gnocchi and sauce can be made in advance if you want to save yourself some effort on the day of serving. Take the gnocchi through Step 3, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Soak the marrowbones a day before roasting in order to draw out the blood. Both the gnocchi and sauce can be made in advance if you want to save yourself some effort on the day of serving. Take the gnocchi through Step 3, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Allow the gnocchi to come to room temperature before baking them. If making the sauce ahead, allow it to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Reheat while the gnocchi are baking.

1.Heat the milk in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper. When the milk is just about to boil, add in the semolina in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Continue whisking until the mixture is very thick, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2.Stir cup of the cheese, the egg yolk, and 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter into the semolina mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into an 8-inch gla.s.s pie plate and allow to cool and firm.

3.Once the semolina mix is firm, use a wet knife to cut gnocchi diamonds with 1-inch sides (15 to 20 gnocchi). Rub a clean gla.s.s or glazed ceramic pie plate with the remaining tablespoon b.u.t.ter. Arrange the gnocchi in the dish in overlapping rows. (If not serving immediately, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Allow to come up to room temperature before baking.) 4.Heat 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

5.Add the red wine to the pan and reduce to a glaze, about 15 minutes. Return the mushrooms to the pan, add the chicken stock, and reduce by half, about 30 minutes. Keep warm (or allow to cool, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until you need it; the sauce will keep for a day).

6. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450F.

7.Sprinkle the gnocchi with the remaining cheese and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. If the gnocchi aren't a lovely golden brown after 20 minutes, run them under the broiler for a minute or two, until they turn the proper color. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

8. While the gnocchi are resting, reheat the sauce over low heat. When the sauce is hot, whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, if desired. Add the thyme and season with salt and pepper. While the gnocchi are resting, reheat the sauce over low heat. When the sauce is hot, whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, if desired. Add the thyme and season with salt and pepper.

9.If serving the marrowbones, return them to the oven for 3 minutes so the marrow begins to melt.

10.Scoop the gnocchi onto four serving plates, and, if you have them, stand a marrowbone on its end next to each portion of gnocchi. Spoon the mushroom sauce over the gnocchi and serve immediately, accompanied by small spoons for scooping out the marrow.

Roasted Marrowbones As a matter of strategy, bake the marrowbones ahead of the gnocchi, then increase the oven temperature to 450F. Allow the bones to sit on top of the stove, covered with foil, while the gnocchi finish baking. bake the marrowbones ahead of the gnocchi, then increase the oven temperature to 450F. Allow the bones to sit on top of the stove, covered with foil, while the gnocchi finish baking.

4 beef marrowbones, each about 4 inches long, soaked 6 hours in several changes of cold water in the refrigerator to draw out the blood Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 small sprigs thyme 1.Preheat the oven to 350F.

2.Rinse the marrowbones and pat dry. Season the ends of the bones with salt and pepper. Arrange the bones on their ends on a small baking sheet-the ends with the greatest amount of exposed marrow should be facing up. Insert a spring of thyme into the exposed marrow in each bone.

3. Roast until the marrow of each bone wiggles like custard when the bone is shaken, about 45 minutes. Cover the baking sheet with foil and leave atop the stove to keep warm while you bake the gnocchi. Roast until the marrow of each bone wiggles like custard when the bone is shaken, about 45 minutes. Cover the baking sheet with foil and leave atop the stove to keep warm while you bake the gnocchi.

Potato Gnocchi Gratin In the pantheon of comfort foods, potato gnocchi yield to no dish, with the possible exception of chicken soup made by your mother. To consume a forkful of potato gnocchi gratin with all the a.s.sociations it conjures up of cheese and tomatoes and good things baked in an oven, followed by a swallow of red wine, is to breathe new life into the phrase "back to basics. " Although they were probably developed as a way of using leftover potatoes, potato gnocchi have become an aim in themselves, a major staple in the cuisine of northern Italy. I've encountered them in literally dozens of preparations, in soups, with meat ragouts, with tomato or cream sauce, or baked in gratins-alone, as in this recipe, or with a Wild Mushroom Frica.s.see (page 101) or salt cod (page 22). Squash, spinach, ricotta, and different herbs are sometimes introduced into this basic recipe, and there are many other variations, including eggless ones. They are all delicious. foods, potato gnocchi yield to no dish, with the possible exception of chicken soup made by your mother. To consume a forkful of potato gnocchi gratin with all the a.s.sociations it conjures up of cheese and tomatoes and good things baked in an oven, followed by a swallow of red wine, is to breathe new life into the phrase "back to basics. " Although they were probably developed as a way of using leftover potatoes, potato gnocchi have become an aim in themselves, a major staple in the cuisine of northern Italy. I've encountered them in literally dozens of preparations, in soups, with meat ragouts, with tomato or cream sauce, or baked in gratins-alone, as in this recipe, or with a Wild Mushroom Frica.s.see (page 101) or salt cod (page 22). Squash, spinach, ricotta, and different herbs are sometimes introduced into this basic recipe, and there are many other variations, including eggless ones. They are all delicious.

Making gnocchi may seem arcane, but in truth they are not much more than poached bits of mashed potato. If you follow the suggestions in the Gnocchi Notes on page 171, you shouldn't have any problem. They freeze quite well, and a bag of them in your freezer, like a bag of frozen cubes of lobster stock, is a blessed store against a bare larder.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

GNOCCHI.

2 pounds baking potatoes, scrubbed 1 cup unbleached ail-purpose flour, plus more if needed 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 extra-large egg, beaten 2 cups light cream Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: Make the gnocchi the night before serving, arrange them in the gratin or ca.s.serole dish, cover, and refrigerate. If you need to prepare as much of this dish as possible several days in advance, follow the box instructions for making gnocchi and freezing them raw. Make the gnocchi the night before serving, arrange them in the gratin or ca.s.serole dish, cover, and refrigerate. If you need to prepare as much of this dish as possible several days in advance, follow the box instructions for making gnocchi and freezing them raw.

1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Roast the potatoes for 40 to 50 minutes-they should be just done. If they cook too long, they won't rice properly. Roast the potatoes for 40 to 50 minutes-they should be just done. If they cook too long, they won't rice properly.

3. Let the potatoes cool for 5 minutes, no longer. Using a kitchen towel to hold the potatoes, cut each one in half, scoop out the potato flesh, and rice into a large bowl. Add the flour and salt and mix well. Add the egg and quickly knead everything together into a sticky dough; work the dough no longer than 3 minutes. If it's too wet, add a small amount of additional flour. If you add too much flour or knead the dough for too long, the gnocchi will be gluey. Let the potatoes cool for 5 minutes, no longer. Using a kitchen towel to hold the potatoes, cut each one in half, scoop out the potato flesh, and rice into a large bowl. Add the flour and salt and mix well. Add the egg and quickly knead everything together into a sticky dough; work the dough no longer than 3 minutes. If it's too wet, add a small amount of additional flour. If you add too much flour or knead the dough for too long, the gnocchi will be gluey.

4. Fill a large pot with 4 inches of water; bring to a boil and season with salt. (You need the water deep enough to cook the submerged gnocchi, yet shallow enough that you can maintain a good boil. If you want the process to go faster, put on two large pots.) Fill another large pot with ice water. Dust your hands with flour. Cut off a piece of dough about the size of a gumball to make a trial gnocchi. Roll it between your palms into a ball, then drop it into the boiling water. After it cooks for a minute, it will bob to the surface. Let it cook for a minute longer, then remove it with a slotted spoon. Plunge it into the ice water for a few seconds, then taste it. (Don't worry if the outside looks a little filmy as it comes out of the ice water. The film will disappear as the gnocchi dries and the moisture evaporates.) The gnocchi should be cooked through but still soft. If it falls apart, knead a little more flour into the dough, taste for seasoning, and test again. Fill a large pot with 4 inches of water; bring to a boil and season with salt. (You need the water deep enough to cook the submerged gnocchi, yet shallow enough that you can maintain a good boil. If you want the process to go faster, put on two large pots.) Fill another large pot with ice water. Dust your hands with flour. Cut off a piece of dough about the size of a gumball to make a trial gnocchi. Roll it between your palms into a ball, then drop it into the boiling water. After it cooks for a minute, it will bob to the surface. Let it cook for a minute longer, then remove it with a slotted spoon. Plunge it into the ice water for a few seconds, then taste it. (Don't worry if the outside looks a little filmy as it comes out of the ice water. The film will disappear as the gnocchi dries and the moisture evaporates.) The gnocchi should be cooked through but still soft. If it falls apart, knead a little more flour into the dough, taste for seasoning, and test again.

5. Using more flour as needed, roll the dough under your palms into -inch-thick logs. There should be enough dough to make between 4 and 5 logs about 18 inches long. Cut the logs diagonally into 1-inch lengths. You should get 65 to 70 gnocchi. Gnocchi are generally given a final shaping either by making a depression in the center of each piece with your finger or rolling them off the back of the tines of a fork. Using more flour as needed, roll the dough under your palms into -inch-thick logs. There should be enough dough to make between 4 and 5 logs about 18 inches long. Cut the logs diagonally into 1-inch lengths. You should get 65 to 70 gnocchi. Gnocchi are generally given a final shaping either by making a depression in the center of each piece with your finger or rolling them off the back of the tines of a fork.

6. Preheat the broiler. Grease a shallow 2-quart baking dish with the b.u.t.ter. (The dish has to be large enough to accommodate the gnocchi in a single layer.) Preheat the broiler. Grease a shallow 2-quart baking dish with the b.u.t.ter. (The dish has to be large enough to accommodate the gnocchi in a single layer.) 7. Add the gnocchi to the boiling water in several batches. Again, let them bob to the surface, then cook for an additional minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi from the boiling water to a sheet pan, shaking off excess water. Let them cool for a couple of minutes, then transfer to the b.u.t.tered baking dish. (If not baking the gnocchi immediately, see Gnocchi Notes.) Add the gnocchi to the boiling water in several batches. Again, let them bob to the surface, then cook for an additional minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi from the boiling water to a sheet pan, shaking off excess water. Let them cool for a couple of minutes, then transfer to the b.u.t.tered baking dish. (If not baking the gnocchi immediately, see Gnocchi Notes.) 8. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to simmer, season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and add the tomatoes. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to simmer, season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and add the tomatoes.

9. Arrange the gnocchi in the dish in a single layer. Pour the cream and tomatoes over the gnocchi. Sprinkle with the Parmesan. Place under the broiler until the gnocchi are toasted and golden, about 5 minutes. Arrange the gnocchi in the dish in a single layer. Pour the cream and tomatoes over the gnocchi. Sprinkle with the Parmesan. Place under the broiler until the gnocchi are toasted and golden, about 5 minutes.

10. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Serve immediately. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Serve immediately.

GNOCCHI NOTESPotato gnocchi aren't hard to make, but there are two things that will result in gummy gnocchi-overcooked potatoes and potatoes that are allowed to cool before being riced. The cooler a potato gets, the more difficult it is to rice, and the gummier the gnocchi will be. Scoop out and rice the roasted potatoes as soon as they're cool enough to handle.Raw gnocchi should be refrigerated and cooked within 24 hours. Cooked gnocchi will keep for a day if refrigerated. If you want to cook gnocchi ahead, prepare a pot of ice water along with the pot of boiling water. As the gnocchi finish cooking, plunge them into the ice water. Let them cool for a minute, then drain and let dry on plastic wrap or wax paper. Put them in a plastic container large enough to hold them in a single layer and refrigerate.To freeze raw gnocchi, lay them out on a tray dusted with flour and put them in the freezer. As soon as they've frozen solid, transfer them to a plastic freezer bag. To cook frozen gnocchi, drop them into lots of boiling salted water. Gently stir the water until they bob to the surface, so they don't stick together. Cook for an additional minute after they have come to the surface, just as you would fresh gnocchi. They should be cooked through, but still somewhat soft.

Buckwheat Polenta with Chestnuts, Figs, and Gorgonzola I've experimented with lots of different additions to polenta-sun-dried tomatoes, chopped mushrooms, and corn kernels, to name a few-but the one I return to most frequently is buckwheat flour. It contributes an earthy element to the corn flavor. Buckwheat flour, polenta, Gorgonzola, chestnuts, and grappa are all staples of the cuisine of Lombardy. The figs here are my innovation, and a fine match with the other ingredients for a hearty dish. Add a salad and a dessert of roasted pears, and you're got a rustic repast just right for an autumn evening. different additions to polenta-sun-dried tomatoes, chopped mushrooms, and corn kernels, to name a few-but the one I return to most frequently is buckwheat flour. It contributes an earthy element to the corn flavor. Buckwheat flour, polenta, Gorgonzola, chestnuts, and grappa are all staples of the cuisine of Lombardy. The figs here are my innovation, and a fine match with the other ingredients for a hearty dish. Add a salad and a dessert of roasted pears, and you're got a rustic repast just right for an autumn evening.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 cup dried figs, preferably Turkish, stems removed, cut into quarters cup grappa (or Cognac or brandy) 2 cups cooked and peeled (see page 244) chestnuts (if fresh chestnuts are unavailable, subst.i.tute 2 cups frozen or jarred chestnuts, crumbled or coa.r.s.ely chopped) 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 3 medium onions, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 8 cups water 2 cups coa.r.s.e cornmeal 6 tablespoons buckwheat flour (available at health food stores or whole-foods grocery stores) cup freshly grated Parmesan pound Gorgonzola DO AHEAD: Boil and peel the chestnuts. Boil and peel the chestnuts.

1. Combine the figs and grappa in a small saucepan over low heat, taking care not to ignite the alcohol. Bring to a simmer, remove from the heat, and let steep for 30 minutes. The figs should be tender and all the grappa should be absorbed. If there is still grappa remaining, remove the figs, put the pan on the stove, and reduce to almost a glaze. Pour over the figs. Set aside. Combine the figs and grappa in a small saucepan over low heat, taking care not to ignite the alcohol. Bring to a simmer, remove from the heat, and let steep for 30 minutes. The figs should be tender and all the grappa should be absorbed. If there is still grappa remaining, remove the figs, put the pan on the stove, and reduce to almost a glaze. Pour over the figs. Set aside.

2. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender and golden, 10 minutes. Add the chestnuts, season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden and tender, about 4 minutes. (If using frozen or jarred chestnuts, they may not color; just heat them through.) Remove from the heat, add the sage, and set aside. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender and golden, 10 minutes. Add the chestnuts, season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden and tender, about 4 minutes. (If using frozen or jarred chestnuts, they may not color; just heat them through.) Remove from the heat, add the sage, and set aside.

3. Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt and then add the polenta in a slow, steady stream through your fingers, whisking constantly so it doesn't clump up. Do the same with the buckwheat flour. If you get any lumps, mash them against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon and keep stirring. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and shiny and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary so the mixture doesn't boil over. Season with salt and pepper. Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt and then add the polenta in a slow, steady stream through your fingers, whisking constantly so it doesn't clump up. Do the same with the buckwheat flour. If you get any lumps, mash them against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon and keep stirring. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and shiny and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary so the mixture doesn't boil over. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450F.

5. Rub a glazed 9-inch shallow ca.s.serole or deep-dish pie plate with vegetable oil. When the polenta is done, pour one-third of it into the ca.s.serole. Cover with the chestnuts. Sprinkle with cup of the Parmesan. Pour another third of the polenta over the chestnuts. Scatter the figs over it and dot with the Gorgonzola. Cover with the final one-third of polenta. Sprinkle with teaspoon pepper and the remaining Parmesan. Rub a glazed 9-inch shallow ca.s.serole or deep-dish pie plate with vegetable oil. When the polenta is done, pour one-third of it into the ca.s.serole. Cover with the chestnuts. Sprinkle with cup of the Parmesan. Pour another third of the polenta over the chestnuts. Scatter the figs over it and dot with the Gorgonzola. Cover with the final one-third of polenta. Sprinkle with teaspoon pepper and the remaining Parmesan.

6. Bake the polenta until bubbling and heated through, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve immediately. Bake the polenta until bubbling and heated through, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

Goose or Duck Risotto Leftover goose or duck is a rare opportunity for an extraordinary risotto. In my family, we have a tradition of using the carca.s.ses of the Christmas geese to make a stock (see Chicken Stock headnote, page 31), which we then use, along with leftover goose meat, to make goose risotto on December 26. 1 freeze extra stock, saving it for a treat with friends sometime in February. a rare opportunity for an extraordinary risotto. In my family, we have a tradition of using the carca.s.ses of the Christmas geese to make a stock (see Chicken Stock headnote, page 31), which we then use, along with leftover goose meat, to make goose risotto on December 26. 1 freeze extra stock, saving it for a treat with friends sometime in February.

To make the risotto, follow the recipe below, subst.i.tuting alternative ingredients for the listed ones as necessary-you don't need all of the first-choice ingredients. If you have goose stock, excellent; if you have leftover goose or duck, or even dark-meat turkey, but no stock, fine. Any of these alternatives will still make an excellent dish. When using rich meats like goose or duck, an acidic ingredient like dried cranberries or balsamic vinegar added just before serving can help balance the flavors.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

6 cups goose, duck, or Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup goose fat or 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, or as needed 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 ounce dried porcini, reconst.i.tuted in warm water (see page 271), soaking liquid saved, and coa.r.s.ely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cups Arborio rice cup dry white wine cup crispy goose or duck skin cut into matchsticks (optional) pound duck or goose meat, trimmed of skin and fat and coa.r.s.ely chopped into 1- to 2-inch pieces cup dried cranberries (optional) cup pine nuts, toasted 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 to 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, if needed 1. Heat the stock to a simmer. Keep warm. Heat the stock to a simmer. Keep warm.

2. Heat 1 tablespoons of the goose fat (or b.u.t.ter) in a risotto pan or a large deep saucepan over medium heat. It's important to use a pan with a heavy bottom that conducts heat evenly or the rice could burn when you cook the risotto. As soon as the fat melts, add the onion and garlic and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add another 1 tablespoons goose fat (or b.u.t.ter) to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the chopped porcini mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook for 5 minutes, stirring so the fat coats all the rice. Season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoons of the goose fat (or b.u.t.ter) in a risotto pan or a large deep saucepan over medium heat. It's important to use a pan with a heavy bottom that conducts heat evenly or the rice could burn when you cook the risotto. As soon as the fat melts, add the onion and garlic and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add another 1 tablespoons goose fat (or b.u.t.ter) to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the chopped porcini mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook for 5 minutes, stirring so the fat coats all the rice. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add the wine and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it has been absorbed. Add cup of the stock and cook, stirring frequently, making sure that nothing sticks to the bottom of the pan, until most of the stock has been absorbed, then add another Add the wine and cook, stirring frequently, until most of it has been absorbed. Add cup of the stock and cook, stirring frequently, making sure that nothing sticks to the bottom of the pan, until most of the stock has been absorbed, then add another cup. If you find that the stock is absorbed instantly, or you have to stir violently to prevent the rice from sticking and burning, then lower the heat. Continue adding the stock cup at a time, waiting until most of it has been absorbed before adding more each time. Stop adding stock when the rice is creamy and tender but there's still a slight amount of resistance when you bite into it. Don't worry if there's still stock left-you may not have to use it all. The total cooking time for the rice will be about 30 minutes. cup. If you find that the stock is absorbed instantly, or you have to stir violently to prevent the rice from sticking and burning, then lower the heat. Continue adding the stock cup at a time, waiting until most of it has been absorbed before adding more each time. Stop adding stock when the rice is creamy and tender but there's still a slight amount of resistance when you bite into it. Don't worry if there's still stock left-you may not have to use it all. The total cooking time for the rice will be about 30 minutes.

4. While the risotto is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon goose fat (or the olive oil) in a small saute pan. Add the skin and saute until crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on a paper towel. While the risotto is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon goose fat (or the olive oil) in a small saute pan. Add the skin and saute until crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on a paper towel.

5. As soon as the rice is finished, stir in the goose meat, cranberries, if using, pine nuts, cheese, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and add a splash of balsamic vinegar if necessary. (Depending on whether you've used goose stock, and the amount specified of goose or duck meat, and whether you added the cranberries, the risotto may or may not taste quite rich. If it tastes too rich, a splash of acid will balance the flavor.) The texture should be creamy and slightly runny. Add cup more stock (or hot water if you've run out of stock) just before serving. As soon as the rice is finished, stir in the goose meat, cranberries, if using, pine nuts, cheese, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and add a splash of balsamic vinegar if necessary. (Depending on whether you've used goose stock, and the amount specified of goose or duck meat, and whether you added the cranberries, the risotto may or may not taste quite rich. If it tastes too rich, a splash of acid will balance the flavor.) The texture should be creamy and slightly runny. Add cup more stock (or hot water if you've run out of stock) just before serving.

6. Spoon into warmed large shallow bowls or onto warmed plates and sprinkle with the cracklings, if you have them, and parsley. Serve immediately, offering additional cheese on the side. Spoon into warmed large shallow bowls or onto warmed plates and sprinkle with the cracklings, if you have them, and parsley. Serve immediately, offering additional cheese on the side.

Panisse with Tomatoes and Black Olives Tomatoes and olives and basil and anchovies-close your eyes, and the aroma of this dish could fool you into thinking you're in Provence or Liguria, if only you could identify that toasty, cozy part of the smell. The mystery ingredient is chickpea flour, used to make a polenta called and anchovies-close your eyes, and the aroma of this dish could fool you into thinking you're in Provence or Liguria, if only you could identify that toasty, cozy part of the smell. The mystery ingredient is chickpea flour, used to make a polenta called panisse. panisse. Like the familiar cornmeal polenta, panisse recipes often call for letting the cooked mixture firm up, then frying or baking it, perhaps with a topping of mushrooms or tomatoes. Like the familiar cornmeal polenta, panisse recipes often call for letting the cooked mixture firm up, then frying or baking it, perhaps with a topping of mushrooms or tomatoes.