In The Hands Of A Chef Part 7

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 baking potatoes (approximately 1 pound) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, clarified (see page 111) cup minced white onion cup creme fraiche 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

DO AHEAD: The potatoes can be peeled a few hours ahead of time, but do not shred them. Shredding releases the starch necessary to bind the potato cake together as it cooks; if the potatoes are shredded in advance, the starch will drain away in the water. Keep the whole peeled potatoes covered with water in a large bowl; pat dry before shredding. The potatoes can be peeled a few hours ahead of time, but do not shred them. Shredding releases the starch necessary to bind the potato cake together as it cooks; if the potatoes are shredded in advance, the starch will drain away in the water. Keep the whole peeled potatoes covered with water in a large bowl; pat dry before shredding.

1. Peel the potatoes. Shred them lengthwise on a grater or mandoline, using the "large" option, so that you produce the longest possible shreds. Season with salt and pepper. Peel the potatoes. Shred them lengthwise on a grater or mandoline, using the "large" option, so that you produce the longest possible shreds. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the clarified b.u.t.ter in a 9-inch nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. Spread a quarter of the potatoes evenly in the pan. (This should produce a thin layer only a few shreds thick.) Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the minced onion over the potatoes. Cook, uncovered, on the first side until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium if it seems as if the potatoes are starting to burn. As the grated potatoes cook, they'll stick together in a pancake. Don't disturb the potato cake until you're pretty sure it's cooked. Flip the cake and cook on the second side until golden brown, another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a platter and keep warm in a low oven. Repeat to make 3 more cakes. Heat 2 tablespoons of the clarified b.u.t.ter in a 9-inch nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. Spread a quarter of the potatoes evenly in the pan. (This should produce a thin layer only a few shreds thick.) Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the minced onion over the potatoes. Cook, uncovered, on the first side until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium if it seems as if the potatoes are starting to burn. As the grated potatoes cook, they'll stick together in a pancake. Don't disturb the potato cake until you're pretty sure it's cooked. Flip the cake and cook on the second side until golden brown, another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a platter and keep warm in a low oven. Repeat to make 3 more cakes.

3. Top each potato cake with a tablespoon of creme fraiche, sprinkle with the chives, and serve immediately. Top each potato cake with a tablespoon of creme fraiche, sprinkle with the chives, and serve immediately.

CLARIFIED b.u.t.tERMany of the recipes in this book ask you to saute or fry ingredients in fat-olive oil, vegetable oil, or b.u.t.ter. Fat acts as a medium to transfer heat from the surface of the hot pan to the irregular surface of the food. By conducting heat into all the minuscule nooks and crannies in the surface of meat and vegetables, fat helps them to brown evenly (which is why it's so hard to brown things well in a nonstick skillet with no fat). In high-temperature frying, however, not all fats are created equal; some work better than others. The milk solids in whole b.u.t.ter, for example, burn at high temperatures, turning black and contributing an acrid flavor to whatever is being cooked. If you want to use b.u.t.ter for high-temperature frying, you've got to get rid of b.u.t.ter's milk solids first-you've got to clarify it. Clarified b.u.t.ter is pure b.u.t.terfat, unlike regular whole b.u.t.ter, which also contains water and whey, as well as milk solids.To make clarified b.u.t.ter, begin by bringing at least 1 stick of b.u.t.ter to a simmer in a small pan over low heat. Let it simmer slowly for 15 minutes. The b.u.t.ter should be barely moving. If it seems too active, lower the heat. A foamy layer of milk solids will gradually acc.u.mulate on the surface, and a layer of whey will sink to the bottom of the pan. Skim off the milk solids with a spoon. When all the milk solids have been removed, carefully decant the clear b.u.t.terfat into a container, leaving behind the layer of whey. A stick of b.u.t.ter ( pound) will yield almost cup clarified b.u.t.ter. It will easily keep for several weeks in the refrigerator, but it must be tightly covered, or it will absorb the odors of other stored food. Clarified b.u.t.ter can be frozen for 5 or 6 months.

Roasted Vegetables with Fresh Herbs and Pomegranate Seeds The dominant flavors in this dish come from the caramelization of the vegetables themselves, brought into sharp focus by a mixture of fresh herbs sprinkled on the dish dish come from the caramelization of the vegetables themselves, brought into sharp focus by a mixture of fresh herbs sprinkled on the dish after after the roasting. Vegetables roasted with herbs take on the flavor; if the herbs-especially distinctive herbs like sage and rosemary-are added later, they stand apart, like little bright lights of flavor drawing attention to the main attraction. The pomegranate seeds in this dish contribute both tartness and visual appeal-my kids love them. the roasting. Vegetables roasted with herbs take on the flavor; if the herbs-especially distinctive herbs like sage and rosemary-are added later, they stand apart, like little bright lights of flavor drawing attention to the main attraction. The pomegranate seeds in this dish contribute both tartness and visual appeal-my kids love them.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

1 medium red onion, skin on, cut lengthwise into quarters 1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut lengthwise into quarters 4 small Red Bliss potatoes, washed and cut in half 4 medium beets, trimmed of greens, scrubbed, and quartered 4 small white turnips, peeled and cut in half 1 small acorn or dumpling squash, halved, seeded, and cut into eighths 2 heads garlic, cut in half across the cloves cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (flat-leaf parsley, rosemary, sage, and thyme) cup pomegranate seeds

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Toss the onion, potatoes, beets, turnips, squash, and garlic with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a shallow baking pan and roast for 30 minutes. The vegetables will cook at slightly different rates-the squash and potatoes will cook the fastest; the beets will take longest. After 30 minutes, remove any vegetables that have become golden brown and tender. Keep them warm atop the stove as the remainder continues cooking. Check every 10 minutes after the first 30 minutes have elapsed. The total cooking time will be between 1 hour and 1 hour and 15 minutes. Toss the onion, potatoes, beets, turnips, squash, and garlic with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a shallow baking pan and roast for 30 minutes. The vegetables will cook at slightly different rates-the squash and potatoes will cook the fastest; the beets will take longest. After 30 minutes, remove any vegetables that have become golden brown and tender. Keep them warm atop the stove as the remainder continues cooking. Check every 10 minutes after the first 30 minutes have elapsed. The total cooking time will be between 1 hour and 1 hour and 15 minutes.

3. When all the vegetables are done, slip the skins off the beets (see page 103), if desired. Remove the skin from the onion. Arrange the vegetables on a warm platter and sprinkle with the fresh herbs and pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately. When all the vegetables are done, slip the skins off the beets (see page 103), if desired. Remove the skin from the onion. Arrange the vegetables on a warm platter and sprinkle with the fresh herbs and pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately.

Roasted Spicy Curried Broccoli and Cauliflower E ven when not cooked to ven when not cooked to death, boiled broccoli and cauliflower taste insipid to me. But roasting, ah, ... roasting is another story. Roasted, these vegetables actually taste as if they're meeting other ingredients halfway. I can't stand boiled broccoli with cheese sauce, but roasted broccoli dusted with a little Parmigiano-Reggiano is a ticket to culinary heaven. A complex, nutlike flavor emerges in roasted cauliflower that is completely absent in the boiled vegetable. Roasting elevates cauliflower to a partner with curry, instead of simply a medium for a creamed curry sauce. death, boiled broccoli and cauliflower taste insipid to me. But roasting, ah, ... roasting is another story. Roasted, these vegetables actually taste as if they're meeting other ingredients halfway. I can't stand boiled broccoli with cheese sauce, but roasted broccoli dusted with a little Parmigiano-Reggiano is a ticket to culinary heaven. A complex, nutlike flavor emerges in roasted cauliflower that is completely absent in the boiled vegetable. Roasting elevates cauliflower to a partner with curry, instead of simply a medium for a creamed curry sauce.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

1 pound broccoli 1 pound cauliflower 1 small red onion 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon curry powder teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Using a sharp paring knife, cut the flowerets from the stems of the broccoli. Peel the stems and cut into 3-inch lengths. If the stems are more than an inch thick, split them lengthwise. Cut the cauliflower into small flowerets. Peel the onion and cut into Hi-inch-thick slices. Using a sharp paring knife, cut the flowerets from the stems of the broccoli. Peel the stems and cut into 3-inch lengths. If the stems are more than an inch thick, split them lengthwise. Cut the cauliflower into small flowerets. Peel the onion and cut into Hi-inch-thick slices.

3. Put the vegetables into a bowl and toss with the garlic, curry powder, red pepper flakes, and olive oil. Season with salt. Put the vegetables into a bowl and toss with the garlic, curry powder, red pepper flakes, and olive oil. Season with salt.

4. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer in a roasting pan and place in the middle of the oven. After 20 minutes, toss the vegetables so they will cook evenly. Continue roasting until all the vegetables are tender and browned, about another 20 minutes. Serve. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer in a roasting pan and place in the middle of the oven. After 20 minutes, toss the vegetables so they will cook evenly. Continue roasting until all the vegetables are tender and browned, about another 20 minutes. Serve.

Winter Vegetable Gratin with Cranberries and Chestnuts I f we ever decide to f we ever decide to sell our house, I'll have this gratin warming in the oven when prospective buyers drop by. The aroma of baking pears, celery root, and potatoes with cream and cheese generates an irresistible atmosphere of comfort. A specialty of the French alpine region of Savoie, gratins were designed to take advantage of the heat of a cooling bread oven. Thinly sliced autumn and winter vegetables would be layered in a shallow ceramic or glazed earthenware dish, covered with heavy cream or broth, and baked uncovered at a low temperature until the liquid was completely absorbed. This gratin could serve as the main course of a meal for 6, or more as a side dish. sell our house, I'll have this gratin warming in the oven when prospective buyers drop by. The aroma of baking pears, celery root, and potatoes with cream and cheese generates an irresistible atmosphere of comfort. A specialty of the French alpine region of Savoie, gratins were designed to take advantage of the heat of a cooling bread oven. Thinly sliced autumn and winter vegetables would be layered in a shallow ceramic or glazed earthenware dish, covered with heavy cream or broth, and baked uncovered at a low temperature until the liquid was completely absorbed. This gratin could serve as the main course of a meal for 6, or more as a side dish.

I've made some adjustments, using a deeper baking dish than usual and cutting the typical 4 cups of cream back to 2 since most of us won't have the opportunity of working off the previous night's dinner by milking a herd of cows or setting off on an alpine trek the next morning.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart baking dish is essential for this recipe. You need at least 1 inches of s.p.a.ce between the top of the vegetables and the rim of the dish. This is to accommodate the 4 cups of liquid that are added after the gratin is constructed, as well as the layer of plastic wrap and foil that need to be pressed down on top of the gratin. A 3-quart baking dish is essential for this recipe. You need at least 1 inches of s.p.a.ce between the top of the vegetables and the rim of the dish. This is to accommodate the 4 cups of liquid that are added after the gratin is constructed, as well as the layer of plastic wrap and foil that need to be pressed down on top of the gratin.

5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 Bosc pears, peeled, cored, and cut into -inch-thick slices (or see the variation that follows) 3 large potatoes, peeled and sliced? inch thick 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 1 celery root (about 1 pound), peeled and sliced inch thick 2 cups grated Gruyere cheese (6 to 8 ounces) 1 cups cooked and peeled chestnuts (see page 244); If you can't get chestnuts, subst.i.tute 1 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped toasted walnuts 1 fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and cut crosswise into -inch-thick slices 1 pound winter squash (b.u.t.ternut, b.u.t.tercup, or Hubbard), peeled and sliced inch thick 1 cup dried cranberries, soaked in cup warm water 2 cups milk 2 cups cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Heat a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter. When it has melted, add the leeks and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a plate. Heat a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter. When it has melted, add the leeks and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a plate.

3. Wipe the pan clean with a paper towel, then heat 2 more tablespoons b.u.t.ter over medium heat. As soon as it melts add the pears and saute until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Wipe the pan clean with a paper towel, then heat 2 more tablespoons b.u.t.ter over medium heat. As soon as it melts add the pears and saute until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Rub the bottom and sides of a 3-quart baking dish with the final tablespoon of b.u.t.ter. Layer half the potatoes in the bottom of the dish. Season with salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of the sage. As you add each subsequent layer, season it the same way. Use all of the leeks for the next layer, followed by all of the celery root. Top with 1 cup of the cheese. Sprinkle with the chestnuts, then use the fennel, squash, cranberries, and pears for the subsequent layers. Finish with the remaining potatoes. Pour the milk over the top of the gratin. Press a layer of plastic wrap against the potatoes, then follow it with a layer of aluminum foil, tucking the foil around the edges so it both sits on the gratin and is fastened snugly to the dish. The plastic wrap will prevent the potatoes from drying out. Rub the bottom and sides of a 3-quart baking dish with the final tablespoon of b.u.t.ter. Layer half the potatoes in the bottom of the dish. Season with salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of the sage. As you add each subsequent layer, season it the same way. Use all of the leeks for the next layer, followed by all of the celery root. Top with 1 cup of the cheese. Sprinkle with the chestnuts, then use the fennel, squash, cranberries, and pears for the subsequent layers. Finish with the remaining potatoes. Pour the milk over the top of the gratin. Press a layer of plastic wrap against the potatoes, then follow it with a layer of aluminum foil, tucking the foil around the edges so it both sits on the gratin and is fastened snugly to the dish. The plastic wrap will prevent the potatoes from drying out.

5. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven. Carefully peel back a corner of the foil and plastic wrap and pour the cream over the top of the gratin, then replace the wrap and foil. Bake for 30 minutes longer. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven. Carefully peel back a corner of the foil and plastic wrap and pour the cream over the top of the gratin, then replace the wrap and foil. Bake for 30 minutes longer.

6. Remove the foil and plastic wrap. The tip of a sharp knife should easily penetrate the gratin without any resistance; if the vegetables are still somewhat firm, cook for another 15 minutes and test with a knife again. Sprinkle the gratin with the remaining 1 cup cheese and bake for an additional 15 minutes, or until the cheese has formed a golden crust. Remove the foil and plastic wrap. The tip of a sharp knife should easily penetrate the gratin without any resistance; if the vegetables are still somewhat firm, cook for another 15 minutes and test with a knife again. Sprinkle the gratin with the remaining 1 cup cheese and bake for an additional 15 minutes, or until the cheese has formed a golden crust.

7. Allow the gratin to cool for 10 minutes before serving. Allow the gratin to cool for 10 minutes before serving.

Gratin with Caramelized Pears If you love pears, you can prepare a spectacular variation on this gratin by subst.i.tuting a topping of roasted caramelized pear halves in place of the layer of sauteed pears. Peel 8 Bosc pears, cut them in half, scoop out the cores, and toss with 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Lay the pears cut side down on an oiled baking sheet. Bake at 450F until they are tender and the cut sides are a deep caramelized brown, about 30 minutes. Refrigerate until ready to use (you can prepare them a day ahead).

Prepare the gratin, omitting the layer of sauteed pears. While the gratin is baking, allow the caramelized pear halves to come to room temperature. After adding the final cup of cheese in Step 6, top with pear halves and return to the oven for 10 minutes, then run it under the broiler for another 3 minutes to bring up the color in the pears.

Glazed Turnips with Chestnuts and Prunes Turnips and chestnuts and prunes, oh, my. At various times, I've matched each of these ingredients with duck. To bring all of them together in the same duck preparation would seem like inviting jealous suitors to dinner on the same night, an invitation to a fight. But without the duck's powerful attraction, the turnips and chestnuts and prunes discover they have quite a bit in common, especially with the help of a Madeira glaze. Be sure to reduce the liquid in the pan to just a glaze, or the dish will taste unfinished. oh, my. At various times, I've matched each of these ingredients with duck. To bring all of them together in the same duck preparation would seem like inviting jealous suitors to dinner on the same night, an invitation to a fight. But without the duck's powerful attraction, the turnips and chestnuts and prunes discover they have quite a bit in common, especially with the help of a Madeira glaze. Be sure to reduce the liquid in the pan to just a glaze, or the dish will taste unfinished.

When buying turnips, select those that feel dense and heavy for their size, whether small or large. The fresher the turnip, the heavier it feels. In the spring and fall, this isn't a problem because young turnips between 4 and 6 ounces are readily available at farmers' markets and high-quality produce departments. In the late fall and winter, however, the only available turnips tend to be larger-and older. Avoid turnips that are spongy, feel light, or are heavily scarred from knocking around in storage.

This recipe easily doubles or triples, if you're considering serving it at a holiday meal. Leftovers reheat well. You can also chop them coa.r.s.ely and mix with an equal amount of bread crumbs for an impromptu stuffing for chicken or Cornish game hens.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 small purple-top turnips (about 1 pounds), peeled and cut into quarters 8 chestnuts, cooked and peeled (see page 244) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 shallot, minced 1 tablespoon sugar 4 sage leaves cup Madeira 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup pitted prunes 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

DO AHEAD: The turnips can be peeled a few hours in advance, but keep them covered with water. If exposed to air, they'll discolor. The turnips can be peeled a few hours in advance, but keep them covered with water. If exposed to air, they'll discolor.

1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the turnips and chestnuts. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the turnips and chestnuts. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to caramelize, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the shallot, sugar, and sage, toss to coat the turnips, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the Madeira and cook for 3 more minutes or until it has reduced by half. Remove the chestnuts and set aside. Add the chicken stock, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the turnips are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Watch the pan carefully. By the time the turnips are done, the liquid should have reduced to a glaze. If not, remove the turnips and continue reducing the liquid until only a glaze remains, then return the turnips to the pan. Add the shallot, sugar, and sage, toss to coat the turnips, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the Madeira and cook for 3 more minutes or until it has reduced by half. Remove the chestnuts and set aside. Add the chicken stock, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the turnips are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Watch the pan carefully. By the time the turnips are done, the liquid should have reduced to a glaze. If not, remove the turnips and continue reducing the liquid until only a glaze remains, then return the turnips to the pan.

3. Return the chestnuts to the pan. Add the prunes. Stir until everything is heated through. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve. Return the chestnuts to the pan. Add the prunes. Stir until everything is heated through. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Slow-Roasted Tomatoes I remember when Dean remember when Dean & & DeLuca, a DeLuca, a New York gourmet store, introduced sun-dried tomatoes from San Remo almost twenty years ago. No other single food product in my experience has been embraced with such enthusiasm or proven so enduring. New York gourmet store, introduced sun-dried tomatoes from San Remo almost twenty years ago. No other single food product in my experience has been embraced with such enthusiasm or proven so enduring.

Sun-dried tomatoes piqued my interest in other techniques for preserving tomatoes, especially slow-roasting and slow-braising (see the next recipe). Unlike that of their sun-dried cousins, the flesh of tomatoes roasted in the oven for several hours at a low temperature is still juicy; something of their freshness still lingers. "SDT"s are like dried porcini-they need to be restored or used in a medium that will restore them. Slow-roasted, Slow-roasted, tomatoes are like prunes-they're fine as they are. Their texture reminds me of the strawberries in strawberry jam. In fact, one of my husband's favorite breakfasts is slow-roasted tomatoes spread on toasted Italian bread, with a little salt. We use them in pasta and salads, as a side dish for a picnic with bread and cheese, as a topping for pizza, and as a special addition to baked fish dishes. tomatoes are like prunes-they're fine as they are. Their texture reminds me of the strawberries in strawberry jam. In fact, one of my husband's favorite breakfasts is slow-roasted tomatoes spread on toasted Italian bread, with a little salt. We use them in pasta and salads, as a side dish for a picnic with bread and cheese, as a topping for pizza, and as a special addition to baked fish dishes.

After making the recipe once or twice, try fine-tuning the cooking time according to the water content of the particular batch of tomatoes and the texture you prefer in the finished product. One caveat: Unlike slow-braising, which can improve the flavor of winter tomatoes, this technique depends on ripe, high-quality tomatoes. What you put in is what you will get out, only more concentrated. Slow-roasted tomatoes have a shorter shelf life than either sun-dried or slow-braised tomatoes. They will last for about a week in the refrigerator.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

12 plum tomatoes or 2 pints cherry tomatoes 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil teaspoon sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1. Preheat the oven to 250F. Preheat the oven to 250F.

2. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Toss the tomatoes in a bowl with the remaining ingredients. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Toss the tomatoes in a bowl with the remaining ingredients.

3. Arrange cut side up in a single layer on a rack sitting in a shallow roasting pan. Roast plum tomatoes for about 4 hours, cherry tomatoes for about 2 hours. Begin checking after half the cooking time, then every 30 minutes. They're done when the edges have curled and the skin has wrinkled, but they should still be juicy at heart. Let cool, then refrigerate in a tightly sealed container. (Do not store in oil.) Arrange cut side up in a single layer on a rack sitting in a shallow roasting pan. Roast plum tomatoes for about 4 hours, cherry tomatoes for about 2 hours. Begin checking after half the cooking time, then every 30 minutes. They're done when the edges have curled and the skin has wrinkled, but they should still be juicy at heart. Let cool, then refrigerate in a tightly sealed container. (Do not store in oil.) Slow-Braised Tomatoes U nless you live in a nless you live in a greenhouse, there will inevitably come a time when the quality of the tomatoes available to you takes a dip. Tomato salads are out of the question, but what do you do when you want tomatoes for a sauce or soup, or to add to braising liquids for hearty winter meat dishes? You can rely on high-quality canned tomatoes or, for a more intense flavor, try these slow-braised tomatoes. They're a great way to concentrate flavor in winter tomatoes. Food writer and cookbook author Nancy Verde Barr first introduced me to the Italian technique of slowly braising tomatoes in oil. Her stovetop version is more rigorous and authentic than mine. At Rialto, we braise the tomatoes in the oven-we can make more in a single batch and they require less attention. Slow-braising produces a more unctuous tomato than slow-roasting, better suited to soups, sauces, and braises, where you want concentrated tomato flavor, but texture isn't an issue. Store slow-braised tomatoes in their cooking oil in the refrigerator, where they will last for 2 weeks. (Note: The oil tastes fabulous and is reusable.) Never insert your bare fingers into the storage container, or you risk contaminating the oil with bacteria from your skin. greenhouse, there will inevitably come a time when the quality of the tomatoes available to you takes a dip. Tomato salads are out of the question, but what do you do when you want tomatoes for a sauce or soup, or to add to braising liquids for hearty winter meat dishes? You can rely on high-quality canned tomatoes or, for a more intense flavor, try these slow-braised tomatoes. They're a great way to concentrate flavor in winter tomatoes. Food writer and cookbook author Nancy Verde Barr first introduced me to the Italian technique of slowly braising tomatoes in oil. Her stovetop version is more rigorous and authentic than mine. At Rialto, we braise the tomatoes in the oven-we can make more in a single batch and they require less attention. Slow-braising produces a more unctuous tomato than slow-roasting, better suited to soups, sauces, and braises, where you want concentrated tomato flavor, but texture isn't an issue. Store slow-braised tomatoes in their cooking oil in the refrigerator, where they will last for 2 weeks. (Note: The oil tastes fabulous and is reusable.) Never insert your bare fingers into the storage container, or you risk contaminating the oil with bacteria from your skin.

cup extra virgin olive oil, plus approximately cup extra virgin olive oil, plus approximately cup for braising 1 large white onion, cut into -inch dice 6 garlic cloves, smashed 18 basil leaves ? teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 24 ripe plum tomatoes or 48 ripe cherry tomatoes 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS.

1. Preheat the oven to 250F. Preheat the oven to 250F.

2. Heat cup olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the basil leaves and red pepper flakes, and stir well. Heat cup olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the basil leaves and red pepper flakes, and stir well.

3. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. (Leave cherry tomatoes whole.) Toss the tomatoes with the sugar and salt. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. (Leave cherry tomatoes whole.) Toss the tomatoes with the sugar and salt.

4. Place the tomatoes cut side down in a roasting pan that will hold them in a single layer. (If you don't have a large enough pan, use an additional roasting pan and more olive oil.) Spoon the onion mixture over the tomatoes. Add enough olive oil to come halfway up the tomatoes, about cup. Place the tomatoes cut side down in a roasting pan that will hold them in a single layer. (If you don't have a large enough pan, use an additional roasting pan and more olive oil.) Spoon the onion mixture over the tomatoes. Add enough olive oil to come halfway up the tomatoes, about cup.

5. Roast until the tomatoes are tender, but not falling apart, about 3 hours (about 1 hour for cherry tomatoes). Stir once, gently, during the braising. Let cool; then refrigerate, covered, in their oil. Roast until the tomatoes are tender, but not falling apart, about 3 hours (about 1 hour for cherry tomatoes). Stir once, gently, during the braising. Let cool; then refrigerate, covered, in their oil.

Roasted Garlic A lthough this recipe calls for lthough this recipe calls for two heads of garlic, I often double or triple the amount, especially if I know that I've got a brutal schedule coming up in the next week. Sauce, soup, or stock instantly acquires depth with the addition of roasted garlic. Also, since everyone ought to have as part of her culinary repertoire a raft of respectable quick meals, the combination of roasted and fresh garlic, olive oil, and herbs, with or without high-quality canned tomatoes, makes a homemade pasta sauce of which you can be proud. Roasted garlic will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 4 to 5 days. two heads of garlic, I often double or triple the amount, especially if I know that I've got a brutal schedule coming up in the next week. Sauce, soup, or stock instantly acquires depth with the addition of roasted garlic. Also, since everyone ought to have as part of her culinary repertoire a raft of respectable quick meals, the combination of roasted and fresh garlic, olive oil, and herbs, with or without high-quality canned tomatoes, makes a homemade pasta sauce of which you can be proud. Roasted garlic will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 4 to 5 days.

MAKES ABOUT CUP.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 large heads garlic 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Grease a small roasting pan, pie plate, or baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Season the oil with salt and pepper. Grease a small roasting pan, pie plate, or baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Season the oil with salt and pepper.

3. Cut the garlic heads in half across the cloves, so you end up with a top and bottom cross-section of each head. Place cut side down in the pan. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and pepper. If the garlic seems dry (see box on following page), add 2 tablespoons water. Roast until the garlic is tender and the cut sides are golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Cut the garlic heads in half across the cloves, so you end up with a top and bottom cross-section of each head. Place cut side down in the pan. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and pepper. If the garlic seems dry (see box on following page), add 2 tablespoons water. Roast until the garlic is tender and the cut sides are golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes.

4.Squeeze the heads gently, and the individual cloves should slide right out of the skin.

SEASONAL GARLICThe water content of garlic varies considerably from one season to the next. From late spring through the fall, it's easy to find garlic that's sweet and juicy. By New Year's Day, however, produce departments are filling their shelves from stocks of stored garlic. Not only do some dried-out cloves appear in the heads, but the usable garlic is often harsher, more concentrated than in the warmer months, so I adjust recipes accordingly. I might use less in a dish that calls for sauteed garlic. When roasting garlic in the winter, I always add a couple of tablespoons of water to the pan so the garlic rehydrates as it cooks.

Pizza, Tarts, and Crostatas This chapter, which might easily have been called Savory Crusts I Have Known and Loved, opens with my favorite Neapolitan flatbread-pizza. For me, pizza begins and ends with the crust. The topping may be interesting, but if it isn't sitting on a rich, yeasty crust that's both chewy and complex, all is for naught. The real difference between a good and a great crust isn't effort-it's time. Great crusts result from a slow second rising, which few commercial pizza makers take time to do. The recipe for Basic Pizza Dough shows you how to do it. Once you've got the crust down, you can play with any of the other pizza recipes. have been called Savory Crusts I Have Known and Loved, opens with my favorite Neapolitan flatbread-pizza. For me, pizza begins and ends with the crust. The topping may be interesting, but if it isn't sitting on a rich, yeasty crust that's both chewy and complex, all is for naught. The real difference between a good and a great crust isn't effort-it's time. Great crusts result from a slow second rising, which few commercial pizza makers take time to do. The recipe for Basic Pizza Dough shows you how to do it. Once you've got the crust down, you can play with any of the other pizza recipes.

In Italy, pizza is primarily considered a snack, and it's in that spirit that I present these recipes. Thinking of pizza as a snack allows you to use richer ingredients than you might otherwise, because the intention is to serve small portions, something to take the edge off an appet.i.te or whet it for things to come. Smoked Salmon Pizza with Mascarpone and Capers and Five-Cheese Pizza with Caramelized Onions are both quite rich, ideal for serving with drinks or as appetizers. At the opposite end of the spectrum is a pizza with very thin crust and ingredients that act more as seasonings than the usual toppings, Crispy Prosciutto and Parsley Pizza.

Pizzas are always made with a yeasted dough. Tarts, on the other hand, can be made with a variety of crusts. I've included three tart recipes that demonstrate a range of flavor and effort; an Alsatian Tarte Flambee made with smoked bacon, onions, and cheese; a simple Tomato, Basil, and Parmesan Tart that would feel at home anywhere south of the Vaucluse; and a recipe that has its origins in the eastern end of the Mediterranean-individual Phyllo Tarts with Smoky Eggplant, Bulgur, and Roasted Red Peppers.

A pair of contrasting crostatas crostatas closes the chapter. closes the chapter.Crostata is a generic Italian term for pie, sweet or savory; it may be baked in a standard pie plate or free-form. Made with pastry dough and filled with a mixture of precooked vegetables, savory crostatas are often topped with cheese or a custard mixture. A Spring Vegetable Crostata ill.u.s.trates the light style, while the Caramelized Squash, Pear, and Blue Cheese Crostata is a heartier cold-weather dish. By the way, making a crostata is a great technique for transforming leftover vegetables into a different dish altogether. is a generic Italian term for pie, sweet or savory; it may be baked in a standard pie plate or free-form. Made with pastry dough and filled with a mixture of precooked vegetables, savory crostatas are often topped with cheese or a custard mixture. A Spring Vegetable Crostata ill.u.s.trates the light style, while the Caramelized Squash, Pear, and Blue Cheese Crostata is a heartier cold-weather dish. By the way, making a crostata is a great technique for transforming leftover vegetables into a different dish altogether.

Basic Pizza Dough You can make good pizza dough in a few hours. Great dough, one whose crust will make people sit up and wonder if they've been eating cardboard all their lives, requires a little extra time, but almost no extra effort. A memorable pizza crust will almost always have been made from dough that has had the benefit of an extended second rising, usually stretched out over 6 to 8 hours. This second rising allows the gluten fibers greater time to develop, resulting in a chewier crust. The long second rising also eliminates the raw quality that crust made from "quick" dough sometimes seems to have. A good crust tastes mature, like a well-made bread, good enough to stand on its own, instead of just serving as a vehicle for the topping. dough in a few hours. Great dough, one whose crust will make people sit up and wonder if they've been eating cardboard all their lives, requires a little extra time, but almost no extra effort. A memorable pizza crust will almost always have been made from dough that has had the benefit of an extended second rising, usually stretched out over 6 to 8 hours. This second rising allows the gluten fibers greater time to develop, resulting in a chewier crust. The long second rising also eliminates the raw quality that crust made from "quick" dough sometimes seems to have. A good crust tastes mature, like a well-made bread, good enough to stand on its own, instead of just serving as a vehicle for the topping.

I always let my dough rise slowly the second time. The minor inconvenience of planning ahead is more than offset by the superior flavor of the finished pizza crust. If I'm going to make pizza on Sat.u.r.day, I prepare the dough Friday night and let it rise once at room temperature. Then I punch the dough down and throw it into the refrigerator. By chilling the dough, I slow the second rising way down, so it takes place over 6 to 8 hours. On Sat.u.r.day morning, the dough is ready. I leave the dough in the refrigerator if I'm going to use it that night. If I've made extra, I wrap it tightly in several layers of plastic wrap and freeze it. Frozen pizza dough lasts for a month.

Most pizza dough recipes are vague when it comes to the size of the pizza that the dough will make, as well as the thickness of the crust. I make thin-crust pizzas, meaning the dough is about 3 3/16 inch thick. But you don't have to worry about measuring this. If you roll a pound of pizza dough into two 12-inch pizzas, the dough will be the right thickness. You can even roll the dough out into two 16-inch pizzas, in which case the crust will be really thin, an effect that works particularly well when you're topping the dough with only a few ingredients, or with items that you don't want to cook too long, or when you're using the dough for homemade crackers. inch thick. But you don't have to worry about measuring this. If you roll a pound of pizza dough into two 12-inch pizzas, the dough will be the right thickness. You can even roll the dough out into two 16-inch pizzas, in which case the crust will be really thin, an effect that works particularly well when you're topping the dough with only a few ingredients, or with items that you don't want to cook too long, or when you're using the dough for homemade crackers.

MAKES 1 POUND-ENOUGH FOR FOUR 8-INCH OR TWO 12-INCH THIN-CRUST PIZZAS OR TWO 16-INCH VERY-THIN-CRUST PIZZAS.

cup warm water package yeast (scant 1 teaspoon) 1 tablespoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 to 1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed 1.To proof the yeast, put 2 tablespoons of the warm water in a large bowl, stir in the yeast, and let it rest. After a few minutes, bubbles should begin to form, demonstrating that the yeast is alive and active. If nothing happens after 10 or 15 minutes, discard the mixture and start over with fresh yeast.

2.Add the remaining cup plus 2 tablespoons water, the salt, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to the yeast mixture and mix well. Use a wooden spoon to stir in 1 cups flour cups flour cup at a time. After incorporating the final cup at a time. After incorporating the final cup flour, the dough should be too stiff to stir; if not, gradually add the remaining cup. Transfer the dough to a clean board and knead until smooth and elastic, about 7 minutes. You can sprinkle the dough with a little flour if it's too sticky to knead, but try to use as little as possible: The more flour you use, the denser the dough will be; the less flour, the lighter the dough, and hence the crisper the crust. Try to work with dough that's still a little tacky. cup flour, the dough should be too stiff to stir; if not, gradually add the remaining cup. Transfer the dough to a clean board and knead until smooth and elastic, about 7 minutes. You can sprinkle the dough with a little flour if it's too sticky to knead, but try to use as little as possible: The more flour you use, the denser the dough will be; the less flour, the lighter the dough, and hence the crisper the crust. Try to work with dough that's still a little tacky.

3. Rub a large bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Put the dough in the bowl, then flip it so that it's completely coated with oil. Cover with a damp towel and allow to rise until doubled in bulk. Depending on the yeast and flour, this can take anywhere from 1 to 2 hours. Rub a large bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Put the dough in the bowl, then flip it so that it's completely coated with oil. Cover with a damp towel and allow to rise until doubled in bulk. Depending on the yeast and flour, this can take anywhere from 1 to 2 hours.

4.For a quick dough (for use within an hour or so), punch it down after the first rising, then cut it into 2 or 4 pieces, depending on how many pizzas you intend to make, and roll the pieces into b.a.l.l.s. Cover the b.a.l.l.s with a towel and let rise again at room temperature until double in bulk, about 45 minutes; as soon as the dough finishes the quick second rising, it's ready to use. punch it down after the first rising, then cut it into 2 or 4 pieces, depending on how many pizzas you intend to make, and roll the pieces into b.a.l.l.s. Cover the b.a.l.l.s with a towel and let rise again at room temperature until double in bulk, about 45 minutes; as soon as the dough finishes the quick second rising, it's ready to use. For a slow second rising, For a slow second rising,punch the dough down after the first rising, cover with the towel, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours.

5.After the second rising, the dough is ready to use. Either proceed with one of the pizza recipes or wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Or, if not using within a day, put the wrapped dough in a plastic bag and freeze it; allow frozen dough to thaw in the refrigerator. All dough should be at room temperature before using.

Pizza Tools Apizza stone and a pizza peel, the wide wooden paddle used to move pizza in and out of the oven, will make your experience more satisfying. Pizza stones come in a variety of sizes and shapes. I own two rectangular ones, the largest that will fit on my oven racks. Each stone will hold one 16-inch pizza or two or more smaller ones. The circular stones seem to hold only one pizza, unless you're making very small ones. peel, the wide wooden paddle used to move pizza in and out of the oven, will make your experience more satisfying. Pizza stones come in a variety of sizes and shapes. I own two rectangular ones, the largest that will fit on my oven racks. Each stone will hold one 16-inch pizza or two or more smaller ones. The circular stones seem to hold only one pizza, unless you're making very small ones.

About half an hour before the pizza is ready to bake, I preheat my oven to 500F, giving the stones time to warm. The stones provide an even source of direct heat for the entire bottom surface of the dough, producing a crisp crust. Several large unglazed tiles (referred to as "unsalted" or quarry tiles in the trade), available at many home renovation stores, are an inexpensive alternative.

Pizza peels are available in home versions with a short handle. They're an inexpensive accessory that can help avert a disastrous spill. If you don't have a peel, a.s.semble your pizzas on an upside-down sheet pan dusted with cornmeal or a rimless cookie sheet, then slide them off the sheet onto the pizza stone.

Baking Pizzas-One at a Time or All at Once?

All of my pizza recipes call for a pound of pizza dough. Because most people don't own multiple pizza stones, or a stone large enough to accommodate more than one pizza at a time, the recipes usually suggest rolling out the dough, topping the crust, and baking each pizza individually. While one pizza bakes, you prepare the next. This works if you're adding pizza to an array of hors d'oeuvres, or if your gatherings tend to be the loose sort of affairs where everyone gravitates to the kitchen. call for a pound of pizza dough. Because most people don't own multiple pizza stones, or a stone large enough to accommodate more than one pizza at a time, the recipes usually suggest rolling out the dough, topping the crust, and baking each pizza individually. While one pizza bakes, you prepare the next. This works if you're adding pizza to an array of hors d'oeuvres, or if your gatherings tend to be the loose sort of affairs where everyone gravitates to the kitchen.

But what if you want to serve your pizza all at once, say, as a separate course at the type of dinner when guests aren't supposed to stroll into the kitchen as each pizza finishes?