Explorations in Australia Part 3

At daybreak saddled up our tired and hungry horses, and proceeded to where we had dinner yesterday. After giving our horses two hours' grazing and having had breakfast, started back towards the natives' camp, as I wished to question them respecting the reported death of white men in this neighbourhood. When we approached the natives' bivouac, we saw where they had been following up our tracks in every direction, and Jemmy found the place where they had picked up Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was away looking for the revolver, Mr. Monger saw two natives following up our trail, and within fifty yards of us. We both wheeled round and had our guns in readiness, but soon perceived they were the same as were friendly last night, and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At my request they went and brought us Mr. Monger's revolver, which they stated they had been warming near the fire! Fortunately for them, it did not go off.

On being questioned by Jemmy, they stated that the place Noondie (where Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the white men were) was two days'

journey North-West from this spot; that there were the remains of horses, but not of men, and they volunteered to show us the spot. Being now 1 p.m., and having to meet the party to-night at a place about twenty-three miles distant, we started at once, leaving the natives, who did not wish to move to-day, but who apparently sincerely promised to come to our camp to-morrow. Reached camp at the spot arranged an hour after dark, and found all well.

BIVOUACKING.

2nd.

Rested our horses at the place, which I called the Two-spring Bivouac, there being two small springs here. Re-stuffed with gra.s.s all the pack-saddles, as some of the horses were getting sore backs. By meridian alt.i.tude of sun found the camp to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I was very much annoyed at the natives not putting in appearance as promised.

3rd.

No sign of the natives this morning. I decided to steer in the direction pointed out by them, and travelling about North 306 degrees East magnetic for fifteen miles, we found water in some granite rocks, with very good feed around, cypress and acacia thickets, light red loamy soil, dest.i.tute of gra.s.s.

4th.

Steering in about West-North-West direction for sixteen miles, the first six of which were studded with granite rocks, good feed around them, after which through poor sandy country, covered with spinifex. We bivouacked in a thicket without water or feed, and tied up our horses.

Saw a natives' fire, but was unable to get near it. Barometer 28.52; fine.

5th.

After travelling in a northerly direction for seven miles without finding water, and without seeing any hill answering the description given by Jemmy, I struck about east for sixteen miles, and camped at a fine spring near some granite rocks, with splendid feed around them. This is the first good spring since leaving the settled districts. At 8 p.m., barometer 28.44; thermometer 72 degrees.

6th (Sunday).

Rested at camp, which I called Depot Spring, and found to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of sun.

Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer 57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer 28.30; thermometer 77 degrees.

7th.

Started this morning, in company with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore the country to the northward, where we had seen a peaked hill. Went in that direction about thirty miles, the first twenty of which were studded with granite rocks, with fine feed around them. At twenty-seven miles crossed a salt marsh, about one mile wide, and, continuing three miles farther, reached the peaked hill, which was composed of granite, capped with immense blocks, giving it a very remarkable appearance. Bivouacked on North-West side of hill, at a small water-hole.

8th.

This morning, after saddling up, we ascended the conical hill (which I named Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles from it, after which we struck North 81 degrees East magnetic to a granite range about eight miles distant, where we found two fine water-holes, and rested an hour.

Thence in about a South-South-East direction for twelve miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. The day was very fine, and the rainy appearance cleared off, much to our grief.

9th.

At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells, and antic.i.p.ating they had made off in search of water, we put our saddles, guns, and rugs on our backs, and started on their tracks. After following the tracks for nine miles we came to a water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards we succeeded in overtaking the horses in a gra.s.sy flat, about thirteen miles South-South-East from our last night's bivouac. The last few miles our troublesome load became very awkward and heavy. One of the horses had broken his hobbles. Continuing in about the same course for six miles, we struck about West-South-West for ten miles, and reached camp, where we found all well, at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.

AN OLD NATIVE.

10th.

Started again this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to explore the country to the eastward, leaving Mr. Hamersley to shift the party to our bivouac of the 2nd instant, about twenty-four miles South-East from here. After travelling East-North-East for six miles, we came upon a very old native at a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not understand what he said, but he thought that he meant that there were a number of armed natives about. He was very frightened, howled the whole time we stayed, and was apparently in his dotage, hardly able to walk.

Continuing our journey, we camped at a small water-hole in some granite rocks, with good feed around them, about sixteen miles East-North-East from Depot Spring.

11th.

Started at sunrise, and steered about East-North-East over lightly-gra.s.sed country; and on our way came upon a middle-aged native with two small children. We were within twenty yards of him before he saw us. He appeared very frightened, and trembled from head to foot. Jemmy could understand this native a little, and ascertained from him that he had never seen or heard anything about white men or horses being killed or having died in this vicinity. Did not know any place named Noondie; but pointed to water a little way eastward. Jemmy then asked him all manner of questions, but to no purpose, as he stated he knew nothing about the business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever heard of any horses being eaten; he answered No, but that the natives had just eaten his brother! I have no doubt parents have great difficulty in saving their children from these inhuman wretches. Then the old man tried to cry, and ended by saying he had two women at his hut, a little westward. After travelling ten miles from our last night's bivouac, and not finding water, we struck North 204 degrees East magnetic for about twenty miles, through scrubby thickets, without feed, and arrived at the bivouac of the 2nd, where the party will meet us to-morrow. Reached the water at the Two Springs half an hour after dark.

12th.

Explored the country around camp in search of a better place for feed, but could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and party joined us at 4 p.m., all well. Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a great treat, after living so long on salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold wind from the east all day.

13th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to the southward to-morrow.

Barometer 28.76.

14th.

Started this morning, in company with Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the country to the southward. Travelled in a south-westerly direction for twenty-five miles, and camped at the spot where we had the encounter with the natives on May 31. We found they had left, and there was no water on the rocks. Luckily our horses had water six miles back.

MOUNT IDA.

15th.

Saddled up at daybreak, and steered about South-East towards a high range of hills about ten miles distant. I named it Mount Ida, and from the summit I took a round of angles with my pocket s.e.xtant. On all the hills in this neighbourhood the local attraction is so great that the prismatic compa.s.s is useless. Found a fine spring of water on south side of Mount Ida, in an almost inaccessible spot. After giving the horses two hours'

rest we continued our journey North 154 degrees East magnetic for eight miles to a granite range, where, after a diligent search, I found two water-holes, and bivouacked, with good feed around the rocks.

16th.

Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to some trap ranges, North 124 degrees East, about seven miles distant, from which I could see an immense lake running as far as the eye could reach to the eastward, and westerly and northerly, most probably joining Lake Barlee. Not being able to proceed farther southward, on account of the lake, I steered in a northerly direction for twenty miles, but, discovering neither feed nor water, bivouacked in a thicket, and tied up our horses.

17th.

At dawn, found that my horse Sugar, after breaking his bridle, had made off towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing my saddle on Jemmy's horse, we followed on the track for six miles, when we came to a few granite rocks, with a little water on them, from rain that had fallen during the night. At this place Morgan was left with the horses and our guns, while Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's tracks, taking only a revolver with us.

After travelling on the tracks for two miles we overtook him, and with a little trouble managed to catch him. On reaching the spot where we had left Morgan, we found him with the three double-barrelled guns on full c.o.c.k, together with his revolver, in readiness. On being asked what was the matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was ready to give the natives what he called "a warm attachment." After having breakfast we steered North-North-West for about twenty miles, and reached camp at 5 p.m., and found all well. Rained a little during the day.

EXPLORING EASTWARD.

18th.

Having thus made an exhaustive search in the neighbourhood where Jemmy expected to find the remains of the white men, by travelling over nearly the whole of the country between lat.i.tude 28 degrees and 29 degrees 30 minutes south, and longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I determined to make the most of the little time at my disposal, and carry out the instruction that I was to attempt to proceed as far eastward as possible.

Accordingly, after collecting the horses, steered about East-North-East for nine miles, to a low quartz range, over tolerably gra.s.sy country, not very dense. From this range I saw some bare granite rocks bearing about North 120 degrees East magnetic. For these we steered, and luckily, after travelling six miles over a plain, which in severe winters must be nearly all under water, found a fine pool in a clay-pan, and bivouacked. There was a little rain during the night.

19th.

The horses having strayed back on our tracks, we did not start till 12 o'clock, when the journey was continued towards the granite range seen yesterday, about ten miles distant. We camped on west side of North, with plenty of water from the recent rain on the granite rocks, but with very little feed. At five miles crossed a dry stream-bed, eighteen yards wide, sandy bottom; thickets most of the way, but not very dense.

20th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock kangaroos to-day. Took a round of angles from a bare granite hill, North 50 degrees East magnetic, about one mile from camp, which I found to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 57 minutes by meridian alt.i.tudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and a Pegasi (Markab); and in longitude about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a high hill bearing North 81 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named Mount Lenora; and another bearing North 67 degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named Mount George. Intend proceeding to Mount Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small tree (ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the letter F at our bivouac.

21st.

Steering towards Mount Lenora over some tolerably gra.s.sy country, we reached it at sundown, and, not finding any water, camped without it, with very good feed. In south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 53 minutes by meridian alt.i.tudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about 121 degrees 20 minutes East.

22nd.

After making every search in the vicinity of the bivouac for water, and the country ahead appearing very unpromising, I decided to return ten miles on our tracks, where we found a fine pool of water in a brook, and camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a flying trip in search of water.

A NATIVE UP A TREE.

23rd.

Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, to explore the country to the eastward for water, etc. After travelling three miles towards Mount Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing North-East about three miles, to which we proceeded, and surprised a middle-aged native. Upon seeing us he ran off shouting, and decamped with a number of his companions, who were at a little distance. The horse I was riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from Northam--evidently well understood running down a native, and between us we soon overtook our black friend and brought him to bay. We could not make him understand anything we said; but, after looking at us a moment, and seeing no chance of escape, he dropped his two dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a small tree about twelve feet high. After securing the dowaks, I tried every means to tempt him to come down; fired my revolver twice, and showed him the effect it had on the tree. The report had the effect also of frightening all the natives that were about, who no doubt made off at a great rate. I began to climb up after him, but he pelted me with sticks, and was more like a wild beast than a man. After discovering we did not like to be hit, he became bolder and threw more sticks at us, and one hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting him, when I called on him to desist. I then offered him a piece of damper, showing him it was good by eating some myself and giving some to Tommy. He would not look at it, and when I threw it close to him he dashed it away as if it was poison. The only way of getting him down from the tree was force, and, after considering a moment, I decided to leave him where he was. We accordingly laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade him farewell in as kindly a manner as possible. Continuing our course, pa.s.sing Mount Lenora, we steered North 81 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a table hill, which I ascended and took a round of angles. This hill I named Mount Malcolm, after my friend and companion, Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty miles, towards which we proceeded, and at six miles came upon a small gully, in which we found a little water, and bivouacked.

24th.

Started early this morning, and steered East-North-East for six miles to some low stony ranges, lightly gra.s.sed; thence North 61 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I named Mount Flora, distant about nine miles from the stony ranges, ascending which, I obtained a round of bearings and angles. Saw a high range bearing about North 106 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, apparently about sixteen miles distant, towards which we travelled till after dark, searching for feed and water on our way without success, and there bivouacked and tied up our horses.

MOUNT MARGARET.

25th.

Saddled at dawn, and proceeded to the range, which bore North 93 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about five miles distant, on reaching which I ascended the highest peak, and named it Mount Margaret. Took a round of angles and bearings. From the summit of Mount Margaret the view was very extensive. There was a large dry salt lake to the southward, as far as the eye could reach, while to the east and north-east there were low trap ranges, lightly gra.s.sed. A high table hill bore North 73 degrees East magnetic.

Being now about sixty miles from camp, and not having had any water since yesterday morning, I decided to return. Steering about west for eight miles, we struck a brook trending south-east, in which we found a small quant.i.ty of water in a clay-pan. After resting an hour, in order to make a damper and give the horses a little of the feed, which only grew sparingly on the banks of the brook, we continued our journey towards camp. Pa.s.sing Mount Flora, we camped about eight miles farther onwards, near a small patch of feed, without water, about a mile north of our outward track.

26th.

Started at dawn, and reached our bivouac of the 23rd. There obtained just sufficient water for ourselves and the horses. Continuing, we found a fine pool of rain-water in a brook a mile and a half west of Mount Malcolm, and, reaching camp an hour after dark, found all well. On our way Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo, which we carried to camp.