Explorations in Australia Part 2

From the summit of Mount Churchman, Ningham of Mr. Monger, or Mount Singleton of Mr. A.C. Gregory, bore North 312 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic. This evening a party of nine natives (friends of our native Jemmy) joined us, who state that a long time ago a party of white men and horses died at a place called Bouincabbajibimar, also that a gun and a number of other articles are there, and volunteer to accompany us to the spot.

6th.

Left Mount Churchman in company with the nine natives, and travelled about North-North-West for ten miles to a small water-hole called Woodgine, thence in a northerly direction to a branch of Lake Moore, which we crossed without difficulty, and, following along its north sh.o.r.e for three miles, we bivouacked at a spring close to the lake called Cundierring, with splendid feed around the granite rocks.

7th.

Steering in a northerly direction for eleven miles, through dense thickets of acacia and cypress, we reached some granite rocks with water on them, called Curroning, and bivouacked. Have fears that the information received from the natives relates to nine of Mr. Austin's horses that died from poison at Poison Rock. They now state they are only horses' bones, and not men's, as first stated.

8th.

Travelling in the direction of North 30 degrees East for about ten miles, we reached some granite rocks, with a water-hole in them, called Coorbedar. Pa.s.sed over very rough, low, quartz hills, covered with acacia thickets, etc. At four miles pa.s.sed a water-hole called Yeergolling; at seven miles a small one called Gnurra; and another at eight miles called Munnarra.

9th (Sunday).

Rested our horses at Coorbedar. Found camp to be in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 24 minutes 43 seconds by meridian alt.i.tudes of the sun and Regulus, and in longitude 118 degrees 6 minutes East. From a quartz hill half a mile South-West from Coorbedar, Mount Singleton bore North 268 degrees 15 minutes East. The supply of water from the rock having been used, I went, in company with Mr. Hamersley, to a spot one mile and a half South-South-West from Coorbedar, called Dowgooroo, where we dug a well and procured a little water, to which I intend shifting to-morrow, as I propose staying in this vicinity for two days, so as to give me time to visit Warne, the large river spoken of by Jemmy.

10th.

Started this morning in company with Tommy Windich and a native boy (one of the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) to examine the locality called Warne. Steering North 42 degrees East magnetic for about seven miles, we came to a gra.s.sy flat about half a mile wide, with a stream-bed trending south running through it. The natives state it to be dry in summer, but at present there is abundance of water, and in wet seasons the flat must be almost all under water. After following the flat about seven miles we returned towards camp, about five miles, and bivouacked.

11th.

Returned this morning to Dowgooroo and found all well. Rain, which we were much in want of, fell lightly most of the day. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 61 degrees.

12th.

Steered this morning about North 38 degrees East magnetic for eight miles, and camped by a shallow lake of fresh water--the bivouac of the 10th. Here we met a party of twenty-five natives (friends of my native Jemmy and the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) who had a grand corroboree in honour of the expedition. They stated that at Bouincabbajilimar there were the remains of a number of horses, but no men's bones or guns, and pointed in the direction of Poison Rock, where Mr. Austin lost nine horses. Being now satisfied that the natives were alluding to the remains of Mr. Austin's horses, I resolved to steer to the eastward, towards a spot called by the native, Jemmy, Noondie, where he states he heard the remains of white men were.

13th.

Bidding farewell to all the natives, we steered in a south-easterly direction for fifteen miles, and camped in a rough hollow called Durkying; cypress and acacia thickets the whole way.

14th.

One of our horses having strayed, we did not start till 10.40 a.m., when we steered in about a South-East direction for eight miles, and camped on an elevated gra.s.sy spot, called Mingan, with water in the granite rocks, probably permanent. The thickets were a little less dense than usual, but without any gra.s.s, except at the spots mentioned. By meridian alt.i.tudes of Mars and Regulus, we were in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 30 minutes 30 seconds, and in longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes east.

15th.

Steering North-East for four miles, and North-North-East for seven miles, over sandy soil, with thickets of acacia and cypress, we bivouacked on an elevated gra.s.sy spot, called Earroo, with water in granite rocks.

16th (Sunday).

Rested at Earroo; horses enjoying good feed. By meridian alt.i.tudes of Regulus and Mars, camp at Earroo was in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 23 minutes 3 seconds, and in longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes East; weather very cloudy; barometer 29.

17th.

Started 7.50 a.m., and steered North 60 degrees East for about five miles; thence about North 50 degrees East for eight miles; thence North 85 degrees East for five miles, to a small gra.s.sy spot called Croobenyer, with water in granite rocks. Sandy soil, thickets of cypress, acacia, etc., most of the way. Found camp to be in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 12 minutes 43 seconds by meridian alt.i.tudes of Regulus and Aquilae (Altair); barometer 28.70.

18th.

Steering North 70 degrees East for two miles and a half, we saw a low hill called Yeeramudder, bearing North 62 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, distant about seventeen miles, for which we steered, and camped to the north of it, on a fine patch of gra.s.s with a little rain-water on some granite rocks. At eleven miles crossed a branch of a dry salt lake, which appears to run far to the eastward.

19th.

Steering about North 85 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles, attempted to cross the lake we had been leaving a little to the southward, making for a spot supposed by us to be the opposite sh.o.r.e, but on arriving at which was found to be an island. As we had great difficulty in reaching it, having to carry all the loads the last 200 yards, our horses saving themselves with difficulty, and, being late, I resolved to leave the loads and take the horses to another island, where there was a little feed, on reaching which we bivouacked without water, all being very tired.

20th.

On examining this immense lake I found that it was impossible to get the horses and loads across it; I was therefore compelled to retrace my steps to where we first entered it, which the horses did with great difficulty without their loads. I was very fortunate in finding water and feed about three miles North-North-West, to which we took the horses and bivouacked, leaving on the island all the loads, which we shall have to carry at least half way, three quarters of a mile, the route being too boggy for the horses.

HEAVY WORK IN THE BOG.

21st.

Went over to the lake in company with Messrs. Monger, Hamersley, and Tommy Windich, with four horses. Succeeded in getting all the loads to the mainland, carrying them about three quarters of a mile up to our knees in mud, from which point the lake became a little firmer, and the horses carried the loads out. I cannot speak too highly of the manner in which my companions a.s.sisted me on this trying occasion. Having been obliged to work barefooted in the mud, the soles of Mr. Hamersley's feet were in a very bad state, and he was hardly able to walk for a fortnight.

Seeing a native fire several miles to the southward, I intend sending Tommy Windich and Jemmy in search of the tribe to-morrow, in order that I may question them respecting the reported death of white men to the eastward.

22nd.

Went over to the lake with all the horses, and brought the loads to the camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search of the natives. After returning to camp, overhauled all the pack bags, and dried and re-packed them, ready for a fresh start on Monday morning. Also washed the mud off the horses, who appear to be doing well, and fast recovering from the effects of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy returned this evening, having seen some natives after dark, but were unable to get near them.

23rd (Sunday).

Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on foot to follow the tracks of the natives seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of overtaking them, as they appeared to be making off at a great rate, and were twelve hours in advance of us, we returned, after following the tracks for five miles across the lake. The camp was reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked about fifteen miles. This spot, which I named Retreat Rock, I found to be in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51 seconds by meridian alt.i.tudes of Regulus and Mars, and in about longitude 119 degrees 16 minutes east.

24th.

Some of the horses having strayed, we were not able to start till 10.40 a.m., when we steered in about East-North-East direction for sixteen miles, and camped on a piece of rising ground, with very little water.

From this bivouac, a very remarkable peaked hill, called Woolling, which I named Mount Elain, bore North 162 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, distant about twenty miles; and two conspicuous hills, close together, called Yeadie and Bulgar, bore North 105 degrees East magnetic. Dense thickets, acacia, cypress, etc., sandy soil with spinifex, most of the way.

DISCOVERY OF LAKE BARLEE.

25th.

Steering for Yeadie and Bulgar for five miles, and came to some granite rocks with water, where we gave drink to our thirsty horses. Leaving the party to follow, I went with Jemmy in advance to look for water, which we found in a rough stream-bed, and brought the party to it. This afternoon went with Jemmy to the summit of Yeadie, and took a round of angles. The local attraction was so great on this hill that the prismatic compa.s.s was useless; luckily I had my pocket s.e.xtant with me, by which I obtained the included angles. From the summit of Yeadie the view was very extensive.

The great lake that we had already followed for forty miles ran as far as the eye could reach to the east and south, studded with numerous islands; low ranges of hills in every direction. This immense lake I named Lake Barlee, after the Colonial Secretary of Western Australia. By meridian alt.i.tudes of Mars and Regulus, camp was in south lat.i.tude, 28 degrees 58 minutes 50 seconds, and in longitude about 119 degrees 39 minutes East, Yeadie bearing North 172 degrees East magnetic, distant about two miles.

26th.

Moving in about a northerly direction for nine miles, we turned to the eastward, rounded a branch of Lake Barlee, towards some loose granite rocks, where we encamped, but could not find water. Sent Jemmy over to another rock one mile southward, where he found a fine permanent water-hole, to which we took the horses after dark. Distance travelled to-day about eighteen miles. Tommy shot a fine emu, which was a great treat to us all.

27th.

Shifted the party over to the water found last night, one mile distant, and camped. Found camp to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 53 minutes, and in longitude about 119 degrees 50 minutes east. Marked a small tree with the letter F. close to the waterhole.

28th.

Some of the horses having strayed, we did not start till 9.30 a.m., when I went in advance of the party, in company with Jemmy, to look for water.

After following Lake Barlee for nine miles, it turned to the southward.

Then scouring the country in every direction for water without success, we reached the tracks of the party (who had pa.s.sed on), and, following them over plains of spinifex and stunted gums, found them encamped with plenty of water, which they had luckily discovered at sundown. Distance travelled eighteen miles about true east. By meridian alt.i.tude of Bootes (Arcturus), this bivouac is in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 53 minutes 34 seconds, and longitude about 120 degrees 9 minutes east.

DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.

29th.

Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy to explore the country eastward, leaving the party to take off the horses' shoes for their relief.

Travelling in an easterly direction for eight miles over sandy soil and spinifex, we reached the summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy to be Noondie, which I named Mount Alexander, from which we saw another range about eleven miles distant, bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, to which we proceeded, and found water in some granite rocks.

None of these hills, however, agreed with the description given by Jemmy; and the expectations were at an end that he would succeed in showing us the spot where the remains of white men were. Returning to camp, seven miles, bivouacked on a gra.s.sy flat, without water or food.

30th. (Sunday).

Started at dawn, with the saddles and rugs on our backs, in search of the horses, and, after travelling a mile and a half on their tracks, found them at a small water-hole pa.s.sed by us yesterday. Saddled up and reached camp at eleven o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday morning the dogs caught an emu, off which we made a first-rate breakfast, not having had anything to eat since the previous morning. Barometer 28.44.

A DIFFICULTY WITH THE NATIVES.

31st.

Started this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy in search of natives, leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with instructions to proceed eastward about twenty-two miles, to where I found water on the 29th.

After starting the party we steered in a South-South-East direction towards a high range of hills, which I named Mount Bivou, about twelve miles distant. To the westward of the range we found a fine water-hole in some granite rocks, where we rested an hour to allow the horses to feed.

Continuing in about the same direction for five miles, we ascended a rough range to have a view of the country. We descried a large fire to the westward seven miles, towards which we proceeded, in the hope of finding natives. When we were within half a mile we could hear hallooing and shouting; and it was very evident there was a great muster (certainly not less than 100) of natives, corrobberying, making a dreadful noise, the dogs joining in chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told him to go and speak to them, which he started to do in very good spirits. He soon beckoned us to follow, and asked us to keep close behind him, as the natives were what he called like "sheep flock." He appeared very nervous, trembling from head to foot. After rea.s.suring him, we tied up our horses, and advanced through the thicket towards them. When getting in sight of them, Jemmy commenced cooeying, and was answered by the natives; after which he advanced and showed himself. As soon as they saw him, the bloodthirsty villains rushed at him, and threw three dowaks, which he luckily dodged; when fortunately one of the natives recognized him (having seen Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy), and called to the others not to harm him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the horses, Mr.

Monger and I thought it was time to retire, as we saw the mistake we had made in leaving the horses. The thickets being dense, we had difficulty in finding the horses quickly. On reaching them Mr. Monger found he had dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been recognized, I feel sure we should have had bloodshed, and might probably have lost our lives.

Mounting the horses, we advanced towards the natives, and had a short talk with one of them who came to speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of eight natives, with spears stripped, and dowaks in readiness, should we prove hostile. Although I a.s.sured them we were friends, and asked them to put down their spears, they took no notice of what was said. One native told us not to sleep here, but to go away and not return, or the natives would kill and eat us, after which he turned away as if he did not wish to have any more words with us. It being now dark, we took his advice, and retreated towards where we had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a thicket without water, and tied up our horses, keeping watch all night.

June 1st.