Explorations in Australia Part 4

27th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Found it to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 55 minutes by meridian alt.i.tudes of sun, Aquilae (Altair), and Lyra, and in longitude about 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Although we had great difficulty in procuring water in our last trip, I was reluctant to return without making another effort, especially as, from the appearance of the country east of the farthest point, I had hope of a change, and therefore concluded to shift the party to the water found yesterday near Mount Malcolm, and make another attempt to proceed farther east.

28th.

Steering about North 81 degrees East magnetic, over lightly-gra.s.sed country, thinly wooded for sixteen miles, we camped a mile and a half west of Mount Malcolm, in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 51 minutes 19 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about 121 degrees 27 minutes East.

29th.

Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, with seven days'

provisions, leaving instructions for Mr. Monger to shift the party back to our last camp, where the feed was much better, in lat.i.tude 28 degrees 55 minutes South, and longitude 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Travelled about east for thirty miles towards Mount Margaret, our farthest point last trip. We camped in a thicket, without water, on a small patch of feed.

30th.

Saddled up at dawn, and proceeded towards Mount Margaret, obtaining a little water at the spot where we found water on our former trip.

Continuing, we came to a fine pool of water in a brook, and rested an hour, Mount Margaret being north-east about two miles and a half. Hardly any feed near the water. Resuming, we pa.s.sed Mount Margaret and started towards the table hill seen previously, bearing North 73 degrees East magnetic, apparently about eighteen miles distant, over a series of dry salt marshes, with sandy country and spinifex intervening. After travelling eight miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. With the pocket s.e.xtant I found this spot to be in south lat.i.tude about 28 degrees 50 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 11 minutes East.

MOUNT WELD.

July 1st.

After journeying towards the table hill seen yesterday for six miles, crossed a large brook heading south-west, in which we found a small pool of rain-water, and rested an hour to breakfast. Resuming for about six miles, reached the table hill, which I ascended and took a round of angles. I have since named this hill Mount Weld, being the farthest hill seen eastward by us. Continuing about North 77 degrees East magnetic for fifteen miles, through dense thickets--no gra.s.s except spinifex--we bivouacked, without water or feed, and then tied up our horses. I found this spot to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 41 minutes by meridian alt.i.tude of Bootes (Arcturus), and in longitude about 122 degrees 37 minutes East.

2nd.

Started at dawn, and steered about east, searching on our way for water, which our horses and ourselves were beginning to want much. At six miles we found a small hole in some rocks, apparently empty, but on sounding with a stick I found it to contain a little water. The mouth of the hole being too small to admit a pannican, and having used my hat with very little success, I at last thought of my gum-bucket, with which we procured about two quarts of something between mud and water, which, after straining through my pocket-handkerchief, we p.r.o.nounced first-rate.

Continuing for six miles over clear, open sand-plains, with spinifex and large white gums--the only large trees and clear country seen since leaving the settled districts--we climbed up a white gum to have a view of the country eastward. Some rough sandstone cliffs bore North 127 degrees East magnetic, about six miles distant. The country eastward was almost level, with sandstone cliffs here and there, apparently thickly wooded with white gums, and other trees; spinifex everywhere, but no prospects of water. More to the north, a narrow line of samphire flats appeared, with cypress and stunted gums on its edges--all barren and desolate--so much so, indeed, that for the last twenty-five miles there has been no gra.s.s seen at all save spinifex. After taking a few bearings from the top of the tree (which I marked with the letter F on the south side), which is in south lat.i.tude about 28 degrees 41 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 50 East, I decided to return to our last watering place, nearly thirty-one miles distant, as we were now over 100 miles from camp, and the horses had been without water or feed since yesterday morning. Therefore, keeping a little to the north of the outward track, we travelled nearly two hours after dark, and camped without water or feed, and tied up the horses.

WINDICH BROOK.

3rd.

Saddled up early, and steered westerly towards our last watering-place, about fourteen miles distant; but, after travelling nearly seven miles, came to a small pool of water (at the head of the brook where we found water on the 1st), and rested two hours to allow our horses to feed, as they had neither eaten nor drunk for the last forty-eight hours. Resuming our journey along the brook (which I named Windich Brook, after my companion, Tommy Windich) for ten miles, in which we found several pools of water, but dest.i.tute of feed, camped without water about two miles east of our bivouac of the 30th June.

4th.

Travelling about West-South-West for twelve miles, we reached the pool of water found on our outward track on the 30th June, two miles and a half South-West from Mount Margaret. There we rested an hour. Resuming, we travelled nearly along our outward track for eighteen miles, and camped without water on a small patch of feed. Tommy shot two wurrongs to-day.

5th.

Started at daybreak, and, continuing nearly along our outward track for twenty-five miles, we reached the water close to Mount Malcolm, where we left the party, they having shifted, as instructed, seventeen miles farther back. There we rested an hour; but, having finished our provisions, we roasted two wurrongs and made a first-rate dinner. Tommy also shot an emu that came to water, and which we carried to camp.

Reached there at 6 p.m. and found all well, having been absent seven days, every night being without water, during which time we travelled over 200 miles.

6th.

Weighed all the rations, and found we had 283 pounds flour, 31 pounds bacon, 28 pounds sugar, and 4 pounds tea--equal to thirty-two days'

allowance of flour, ten days' bacon, nineteen days' sugar, and twenty-one days' tea on a full ration. Thereupon concluded to return to Perth as quickly as possible, and reduce the allowance of tea and sugar to last thirty days--bacon to be done without. By that time I hope to reach Clarke's homestead, Victoria Plains, and intend to return by Mount Kenneth, Nanjajetty, Ningham, or Mount Singleton, and thence to Damparwar and Clarke's homestead, thus fixing a few points that will be useful to the Survey Office.

THE RETURN JOURNEY.

7th.

At 6.30 a.m., barometer 28 86, thermometer 34 degrees. Started on the return, and followed along our outward tracks for sixteen miles. Camped on east side of granite range, in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 57 minutes, and east longitude 120 degrees 55 minutes.

8th.

Travelling nearly along our eastward track, and pa.s.sing our bivouac of the 19th June, we reached the Two Springs bivouac.

9th.

Travelled twenty-two miles, and reached our bivouac of 30th May--129 degrees 9 minutes East.

10th.

Reached the bivouac of May 27th. On our way I ascended a very high range, which I named Mount Alfred, and took a fine round of angles--Mount Alexander, Mount Bivou, Mount Ida, Mount Elvire, and Yeadie and Bulgar being visible.

11th (Sunday).

Plotted up our track.

12th.

Travelled for twenty-five miles and camped on a splendid patch of feed, with a little water on some granite rocks about two miles west of our bivouac of the 24th. This I found to be in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 57 minutes 48 seconds by meridian alt.i.tudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 119 degrees 28 minutes east; Mount Elvire bearing North 154 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty-one miles.

13th.

Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Monger, with instructions to proceed to Retreat Rock--our bivouac of May 23rd--I started with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy to attempt to cross Lake Barlee, in order to explore the country on its south side, near Mount Elvire, as well as to try and find natives, Jemmy being acquainted with these tribes. Steering North 154 degrees East magnetic for seven miles, we came to the lake, and, entering it, succeeded in reaching the southern sh.o.r.e after twelve miles of heavy walking, sinking over our boots every step--the horses having great difficulty in getting through. When we reached the southern sh.o.r.e, it was nearly sundown. Determined to push on, and reached the range, where we bivouacked on a patch of feed and a little water; Mount Elvire bearing North 87 degrees East magnetic, about one mile distant; and Yeadie and Bulgar North 8 degrees East magnetic. Rained lightly during the day.

Being wet through from the splashings of the horses while crossing the lake, and from it raining throughout the night, and not having any covering, our situation was not the most pleasant. Jemmy informed me there was a fine permanent spring close to Mount Elvire; but we did not go to see it.

14th.

This morning, after ascending a range to have a view of the country, steered North 288 degrees East magnetic, and then, travelling six miles, came to a branch of Lake Barlee running far to the southward, which we attempted to cross; but after travelling a mile and a half, the horses went down to their girths in the bog, and we had great difficulty in getting them to return, which, however, we ultimately succeeded in doing, and made another attempt, at a place where a series of islands appeared, to cross it, and, pa.s.sing over without much difficulty, reached the opposite sh.o.r.e at sundown, where we bivouacked on a splendid gra.s.sy ride, with abundance of water in granite rocks, Mount Elvire bearing North 108 degrees East magnetic, and Yeadie and Bulgar North 45 degrees East magnetic.

15th.

Having finished our rations last night, we started at dawn, and steered towards Retreat Rock. where we were to meet the party. After travelling five miles, we came to that part of Lake Barlee which we attempted to cross, without success, on May 19th (on our outward track); but, leading our horses, we at last succeeded in crossing, and reached camp, all very tired, at twelve o'clock, finding all well. The party were encamped one mile north of our former bivouac, at some granite rocks with two fine water-holes.

16th.

Considerable delay having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not start till ten o'clock, when we travelled nearly along our outward track--pa.s.sing Yeeramudder Hill, from the summit of which Mount Elvire bore North 111 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about thirty-five miles distant--for about twenty-one miles, and bivouacked at some granite rocks with a little feed around them, which I found to be in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 8 minutes 47 seconds by meridian alt.i.tudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 118 degrees 59 minutes East.

17th.

Started at 8.45 a.m., and, steering about west for twenty-five miles through dense thickets without feed, we camped without water on a small miserable patch, in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 7 minutes 13 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of Bootes (Arcturus). Marked a small tree with F. 1869.

Being now in friendly country, I decided to give up keeping watch, which had been done regularly for the last two months.

18th (Sunday).

After starting the party, went, in company with Tommy Windich, to take bearings from a low hill, bearing North 289 degrees, distant about eight miles, after which we struck in the direction in which we expected to find the party; but as, for some reason or other, they had not pa.s.sed by, I antic.i.p.ated they must have met with good feed and water, and camped, it being Sunday. However this may be, we kept bearing more and more to the southward, in hope of crossing the track, till after dark, when we reached the Warne Flats, and bivouacked. Not expecting to be absent more than a few days, we had neither rations nor rugs. Luckily, Tommy shot a turkey, which we roasted in the ashes, and made a very good meal. The night was bitterly cold, and, not having any rug, I slept with a fire on each side of me, and, considering the circ.u.mstances, slept fairly.

19th.

Made a first-rate breakfast off the remainder of the turkey, and then started in search of the party, making back towards where we had left them, keeping well to the southward. After spending nearly the whole of the day, and knocking up the horses, we found the tracks of the party nearly where we had left them yesterday morning, and, following along them for nine miles, found where they had bivouacked last night; and, it being now two hours after dark, we camped also, having between us for supper an opossum, which Tommy had luckily caught during the day. The night was again very cold, and we had hardly anything to eat, which made matters still worse.

20th.

Starting on the tracks at daybreak, followed them for about thirteen miles, and then we found the party encamped on the east side of a large bare granite rock called Meroin, Mount Kenneth bearing North 24 degrees East magnetic, about fifteen miles distant. From a cliff, about one mile west of the camp, took a splendid round of angles, Mount Kenneth, Mount Singleton, and several other known points being visible. By meridian alt.i.tudes of sun, a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and a Coronae Borealis, camp was in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds, and longitude about 118 degrees 14 minutes east.

21st.

At seven a.m., barometer 29.10; thermometer 35 degrees. Started at 8.15 a.m. Steered about west for fifteen miles, over country studded here and there with granite rocks, with good feed around them--in some places rock poison--and then camped at a spring called Pullagooroo, bearing North 189 degrees from a bare granite hill, three quarters of a mile distant, from which hill Mount Singleton bore North 237 degrees East magnetic, by meridian alt.i.tudes of a Bootes (Arcturus) and E Bootes. Pullagooroo is in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 7 minutes 46 seconds. Finished our bacon this morning, and for the future will only have damper and tea.

22nd.

Steering a little to the north of west, through dense thickets without gra.s.s, we bivouacked at a very gra.s.sy spot called Bunnaroo, from which Mount Singleton bore North 205 degrees East magnetic. By meridian alt.i.tudes of a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and Coronae Borealis, camp is in south lat.i.tude 28 degrees 58 minutes, and in longitude about 117 degrees 35 minutes east.

MOUNT SINGLETON.

23rd.

After starting the party with instructions to proceed straight to Mount Singleton, distant about thirty-two miles, I went, in company with Jemmy, to the summit of a high trap range in order to take a round of angles, and fix Nanjajetty, which was visible. While on our way to join the party, saw the tracks of two men and two horses, with two natives walking, and soon after found where they had bivouacked a few days before. Was much surprised at this discovery: suppose it to be squatters looking for country. Continuing, we found the tracks of our party, and overtook them, and encamped at a fine permanent spring--Mount Singleton bearing North 146 degrees East magnetic about three miles and a half distant. Reached the party at seven o'clock. There was a partial eclipse of the moon this evening.

24th.

There being splendid green feed around Mount Singleton, and as the horses were tired, I concluded to give them a day's rest. Went, in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to the summit of Mount Singleton, which took us an hour to ascend; but, on reaching it, we were well repaid for the trouble by the very extensive view and the many points to which I could take bearings. Far as the eye could reach to the East and South-East were visible Lake Moore, Mount Churchman; to the north, conspicuous high trap ranges appeared; while to the west, within a radius of six miles, hills covered with flowers gave the country a pretty appearance. Further to the west a dry salt lake and a few trap hills appeared. Reached the camp at 2 p.m. On our way shot three rock kangaroos.