Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens Part 37

[Ill.u.s.tration: _PRUNUS TRILOBA AGAINST SUNNY WALL AT KEW._]

PUNICA (Pomegranate).--Both single and double.

PYRUS.--The Pyruses are described elsewhere in this book. _P. (Cydonia) j.a.ponica_ and its many beautiful varieties, and _P. Maulei_ are, however, more frequently grown against walls than any other members of the same family. _Prunus triloba_ is an excellent wall shrub.

RAPHIOLEPIS OVATA.--A very handsome plant.

ROSA (Rose) (see p. 342).

RUBUS (see p. 450).

SMILAX.--This group is not common in gardens, but is interesting. They are a change from the repet.i.tion of a few common things. _S.

rotundifolia_ is a very handsome large-leaved Smilax with shiny foliage, now and then met with as _S. laurifolia_ or _S. latifolia_, from which, however, according to Mr. R. Irwin Lynch, of Cambridge, it is distinct.

All the kinds of hardy Smilax form handsome leafy creepers for walls, but in our climate they rarely produce the rich cl.u.s.ters of red berries that often render them so attractive abroad.

SOLANUM.--_S. jasminoides_ is the most popular flowering climber of the south-west, producing its white bloom-cl.u.s.ters for many months in succession. It is cla.s.sed as deciduous in botanical dictionaries, but is rarely bare of leaves, except after severe frosts in the early months of the year. _S. crispum_ and _S. Wendlandi_ will also succeed in mild counties; the latter has very large bluish flowers.

STAUNTONIA LATIFOLIA (syn. _Holboellia latifolia_).--This plant bears cl.u.s.ters of small greenish-white, highly-fragrant flowers in March, and often perfects seed-pods in the autumn. It is a rapid grower, and its leathery leaves are rarely affected by frost.

STUARTIA PSEUDO-CAMELLIA.--A rare and very beautiful flowering shrub now seldom seen in even the best of gardens. It is a native of j.a.pan, the flowers being ivory white and perfectly cup-shaped, somewhat like a single White Camellia. _S. pentagyna_ comes from North America, as also _S. virginica_, but the first-named is the finest and is worth a good deal of trouble to grow well. Planted in loam and peat and sand at the foot of a sunny and sheltered wall, the flowering shoots may be preserved intact during the winter. Perfect drainage is absolutely essential for the first-named.

TRICUSPIDARIA HEXAPETALA.--A very distinct and beautiful evergreen shrub, perhaps better known as _Crinodendron Hookeri_. It is a native of Chili, and grows 5 or 6 feet high, its stiff branches set with dark, shiny ovate leaves. The flowers are nearly globular, very fleshy, and rich crimson-red or cherry colour. In both co. Wicklow, at Mount Usher, and at Salerno, co. Dublin, this rare shrub is very luxuriant and beautiful. It grows well in deep, rich, moist loam or in peaty soils, and propagates readily by layers laid down under stones.

VIBURNUM.--Some of the Viburnums are handsome against walls, such as _V.

macrocephalum_ and the Chinese _V. plicatum_.

VITIS (Vine).--The Vines are the most graceful and beautiful of all climbers, and many of them are of glorious colour in autumn. The Virginian Creepers (_Ampelopsis_) are now grouped with the Vines. Of the American Vines, _Vitis aestivalis_, _V. californica_, beautiful autumn colour; _V. cordifolia_, the Northern Fox Grape (_V. Labrusca_), Southern Fox Grape (_V. vulpina_). The Virginian Creeper (_V.

quinquefolia_) is, as is generally known, very showy in autumn. Of the Asiatic Vines, _V. Coignetiae_ is the most famous. It has very large leaves, which turn to a glowing crimson in autumn. It is a n.o.ble climber. _V. heterophylla humulifolia_ has beautiful fruit, each berry about the size of a pea and turquoise blue; it likes a warm, sunny wall.

_V. (Ampelopsis) Veitchii_ is too well known to describe. _V. Romaneti_ and _V. vinifera_, the Common Grape Vine, also deserve notice. Of the last-mentioned there are many beautiful varieties, such as _Purpurea_, Miller's Burgundy, Teinturier, with claret-coloured foliage, and the Parsley-leaved Vine. _V. Thunbergi_ has very fine leaves, which turn crimson in autumn. The Vines should be seen in greater variety, and Messrs. Veitch's recent beautiful novelties planted too.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _OLD WISTARIA AT HAMPTON COURT._]

WISTARIA.--Wistaria time is a pleasant season of the year. A few n.o.ble examples may be seen in the suburbs of London, especially at Kew and Hampton Court, where the trees must be a great age, while quite a fine plant is in the Royal Gardens, Kew, also. What may be achieved with this plant if some attention to its needs were forthcoming is not clear, for most of the Wistarias we see from time to time shift for themselves, and by the position they occupy must have large numbers of their roots in dusty, dry soil. In former days it was always the custom to plant this fine climber at the base of the dwelling-house wall, but now, with a fuller knowledge of its robust growth, its widely-extending branches, and equally its wide-rooting capacity, other positions may with advantage be secured for it. One example may be seen at Kew, where a fine plant covers a huge cage-like structure. Another good way would be to plant it to run over pergolas, and with Clematis to succeed the Wistaria, the effect would be distinctly good. _W. sinensis_, the mauve-flowered species, is the one usually planted. The variety _alba_ is less robust, and does not flower so freely; it wants a warm place.

The double variety is very beautiful when in perfection, but our experience is that it never flowers freely, and the raceme is often poor. _W. multijuga_ has very long racemes, and is the Wistaria which gives so much beauty to the gardens in j.a.pan. It is always a pleasure in Wistaria time to visit the Royal Gardens, Kew, and see the exquisitely coloured trails of flowers on this species; these trails measure between 2 and 3 feet in length. Rosea is a rose-coloured variety.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _WISTARIA RACEME, SHORT, W. SINENSIS; LONG, W.

MULTIJUGA._]

FOOTNOTES:

[2] This also includes plants suitable for walls.

CHAPTER x.x.xVI

FLOWERING AND OTHER HEDGES

Of the more or less known 3000 species and varieties of trees and shrubs hardy in this country, only a small proportion are suitable for making good hedges. Every garden of any size has a hedge or two of untidy look through inattention at the proper time. A hedge must be kept in proper order, not a difficult business when clipping is done annually, when to do so depending upon the plants used.

Hedges may be of two kinds--the neat trimmed hedge, which serves as an outside line to a garden, and also as a screen or wind-break to small or tender plants growing near it; and the straggling rough hedge, varying from 10 to 20 feet in width, more properly a wide bank made up of all sorts of plants, rambling Roses, ornamental Vines, and other things which usually serve to brighten some spot where colour is desirable, or to shut out an undesirable view. The best plants comprise both evergreens and deciduous, but only one thing should be used, as mixed hedges are rarely a success, and of mingled evergreen and deciduous plants are generally quite a failure. It is right to mention, however, that if a mixed hedge is planted the best results are from White Thorn, Holly, and Common Beech. The best evergreen plants in their order of merit are Holly, Yew, Arbor-vitae (_Thuya occidentalis_), _Thuya gigantea_ or _Lobbi_, Common Box, _Cupressus lawsoniana_, _C.

nootkatensis_ (_Thujopsis borealis_), Privet (_Ligustrum_), Common Laurel, Portugal Laurel Pyramid Laurel (_Prunus lusitanica myrtifolia_), _Berberis Darwinii_, and _Osmanthus ilicifolius_.

HOLLY.--The Common Holly makes one of the best evergreen hedges. Its growth, though somewhat slow, is regular, and it does not mind the shears, but it is costly to use to any extent. It does not move readily, so that for the first year or two there will probably be a few gaps to fill up, but when the hedge is once established it is there practically for ever, and with proper attention will never become rough or unsightly. Before planting the site should be marked out, and the ground trenched 3 feet wide and deep, breaking the subsoil with a fork, and working some well-decayed manure about half-way down. This will tend to draw the roots down, and keep them from running out on either side to the injury of neighbouring plants. Plants should be obtained in the early autumn, as soon as it is safe to move them, and planted at once before the ground gets cool. If this be done they will make fresh roots and get established before winter. Some prefer to move Hollies in May, but much depends on whether artificial watering can be done. If it can, May is quite as good a time as September or October; if not, then choose the autumn.

The size of the plants used depends upon taste and the depth of the pocket, but good plants, 1 to 2 feet high, with a leading shoot or two on each, placed from 12 to 16 inches apart, can be recommended, as they move readily at that size, and are not so costly as larger plants. Holly hedges should be clipped in late August or early September, when they will make a short growth before winter, and keep in good condition without further attention until the following autumn. The height of the hedge is entirely a matter for the owner to decide, one 30 or 40 feet high, properly feathered to the ground, being quite possible, as we know from some already in existence. When grown to this height, however, the top should be cut to a point to throw off snow. The flatness of the hedge can be broken by allowing a few leading shoots, 20 or 30 feet apart, to run up, budding them in August with some of the variegated varieties. Gold Queen, Waterer's Gold, Silver Queen, and _Argentea variegata_ are good sorts to use for this.

When a Holly hedge has been neglected for some years cut it back to the old wood in March or April, and fork in a liberal dressing of manure around it. It may not make much growth the first year, but will practically re-establish itself the second.

YEW.--The Common Yew is hard to kill, and easy to prune into various shapes, as topiary work suggests. Yew is generally used for the inside of a garden, such as terraces and hedges near the house. It should be treated in the same way as the Holly, with the important exception of being clipped in May, as the Yew makes most of its growth in the early part of the year. In buying Yews, choose rather stunted-looking plants in preference to those of fresher look and freer growth. The former have been moved within the last year or two, the latter have stood for three or four, and become coa.r.s.e rooted, suffering, therefore, after removal.

ARBOR-VITae.--For a hedge this and _Thuya gigantea_ can be placed together. The common Arbor-Vitae is sometimes not liked because it gets brown in winter, but this colouring is not so p.r.o.nounced in _Thuya gigantea_. In preparing the ground little or no manure need be trenched in, but a dressing of spent manure may be added with advantage. The soil should be as good as possible, but not too heavy. They may be clipped at any season, and for the first two or three years twice annually will not be too often. It is wise to cut off from six inches to one foot of the leaders every year, otherwise the plants attain a great height without breadth. If a hedge of these conifers is allowed to become rough and ragged, it is almost impossible to restore it, as it will not, except in special cases, break from the older wood.

BOX.--The dwarf edging so largely used for borders and paths needs no description, but the Common Box is not so largely used because it gets yellow, the result of sheer starvation, the Box being a gross feeder, requiring plenty of feeding at all times. It should have a dressing of manure annually, or at least biennially, to keep it in good health and colour. It should be clipped in the spring, April or May being the best months, and a top-dressing about the same time will be very beneficial to it. Box is a good shrub for an inside hedge, but should never become overgrown, as, in addition to the hard cutting necessary to bring it into shape, it is a terrible plant to cut, even the small wood being very hard and tough.

LAWSON CYPRESS.--_Cupressus lawsoniana_ and _C. nootkatensis_ (_Thujopis borealis_) can be treated together, as, in addition to their natural relationship, both require the same treatment as a hedge. Neither makes a good flat-topped hedge of the ordinary kind, as the growth is distinctly pyramidal, and unless kept to a point is apt to get injured by snow. They should be cut to a point, and a hedge 12 to 20 feet high of this shape is very handsome and effective in a garden, as well as forming a first-rate screen. They can be trimmed at any time preferably in the spring or early summer, care being taken not to cut the base too hard, and the leading shoots top annually. In planting no manure need be used, provided the ground is good, and it is not required later on unless the hedge shows signs of starvation, when a good top dressing may be given with advantage. Plants 2 or 3 feet in height, placed about 18 inches apart, are a good size to use, as they move readily and are not expensive.

PRIVET.--The oval-leaved Privet (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_) is a native of j.a.pan, and makes a fairly good hedge about 5 or 6 feet high. It grows readily, and moves without any trouble at almost any time. It can be bought cheaply. The ground should be well treated in the first place; afterwards it will require little attention in the way of feeding. It can be clipped at almost any time, but for the first year or two should be cut hard back before growth begins in the spring. Neglect of this leads to a hedge that is leafy at the top but bare at the bottom. In this note the use of Privet is not wholly condemned, but it must be understood its use is not recommended. There is no doubt whatever that for town gardens the Privet is of the greatest service, enduring smoke and fog with impunity. It is vigorous, and soon becomes established in the most dreary gardens.

LAURELS.--Any of the various forms of the Common and Portugal Laurels with the types are suitable for what may be called second-rate hedges, the best being the Pyramid Portugal, which is a smaller-leaved and more upright-growing kind than any of the others. With the exception of the last-named, all the Laurels make hedges rather wide for their height, and all require much attention to keep them in proper shape. All should be clipped in June, after the first growth is made; they will then make another short growth, which will keep the hedge in good condition until the following year. The Pyramid Portugal has leaves about half the size of those of the type and quickly makes a hedge. It is rather more expensive than the commoner Laurels, but it moves well, and does not become bare at the bottom.

OSMANTHUS ILICIFOLIUS.--This plant has not been much used for hedges, but it makes a very good one if carefully looked after during the first year or two. It somewhat resembles the Common Holly, and requires much the same treatment. It is not very expensive to buy, and the hedge should be kept to a height of 3 or 4 feet.

Deciduous Hedges

Many deciduous plants can be used for hedges, but a good selection comprises Beech, Hornbeam, Quick, Myrobalan Plum, and Sweetbriar. The first two require practically the same treatment, the most important part of which is to procure good two or three years old transplanted plants, and to treat them liberally at first. Beyond an annual tr.i.m.m.i.n.g they will not require any further attention, except to tie or peg down a branch or two where gaps may occur. A well known gardener, writing in the _Garden_, says: "We often find the Holly and the Yew largely used in gardens as hedges, but they are not quite so good under all conditions as the Beech or Hornbeam. The Beech is one of our many hardy trees both for screens and hedges. The Copper Beech is seldom used for this purpose, but this is a mistake. We have a fence of the Copper Beech, dividing the kitchen garden from the pleasure grounds, 138 yards long, 18 feet high, and from 4 feet to 5 feet through. It forms a perfect wall on either side, and in spring is one of the most interesting features of the place. It would be useless planting the Copper Beech on a wet or heavy soil--a light soil suits it best. The hedge is now in perfect health, and all that is necessary is an annual clipping about the end of August, before the wood gets hard."

[Ill.u.s.tration: _GREAT BEECH HEDGE AT MICKLEOUR, N.B._]

Quick and the Myrobalan Plum should be planted in double rows to form a hedge, and be cut back hard at the time of planting to form a bottom to the hedge, which would otherwise become leggy and bare at the base. If they should happen to get into this state most of the growth should be cut away, and the main branches tied or pegged down in the direction of the hedge. In a year or two it will be practically as good as ever.

For a dividing line between the flower and kitchen gardens, or for some spot where too much formality is not required, the Common Sweetbriar makes an excellent hedge, although it requires much attention for the first few years. If planted without support, such as a wooden railing, it should be kept tied or pegged down almost to the ground for the first two or three years, using practically every growth that is made by the plants. By this means a good foundation is laid for the hedge, which will, when made, merely require an annual tr.i.m.m.i.n.g. We plant Sweetbriars everywhere. Its leaves in the early morning, or after a warm summer rain, saturate the air with their fragrance.

Hedges of Flowering Shrubs

It often happens that some kind of hedge is wanted in a garden, either as a screen to hide vegetable ground, or as a wind-break, or some kind of part.i.tion. When this is the case, it is a good plan to plant hardy flowering shrubs about 4 feet apart, and so to train and trim them that they grow into a compact hedge, and yet have enough lateral play to allow them to flower. Two years ago we privately advised some friends who were planting new gardens where such dividing hedges were wanted, and the hedges are already coming into use and beauty.

Such a hedge is not only ornamental, but it yields endless material for cutting. It should be allowed to grow quite 4 feet thick, and is best formed with a backbone of stiff woody shrubs, such as Guelder Roses, _Ribes_, and Lilac, while between the stiffer shrubs might be some that are weaker, such as _Kerria_, _Rhodotypus_, and _Leycesteria_. Plants of rank rambling growth, such as free Roses and double-flowered Brambles, _Aristolochia_, _Wistaria_, Virginia Creeper, and the rambling Honeysuckles, are not in place in such a hedge; they are more suitable for rough hedge banks, walls, or for arbour and pergola; the flower hedge wants true shrubs. The bush Honeysuckles, such as _Lonicera fragrantissima_ and _L. tatarica_, are just right, or any woody, twiggy bushes of moderate growth, or such as are amenable to pruning and thinning, such as _Deutzia_ and s...o...b..rry, shrubs that so often get overgrown in a shrubbery. In the hedge these would do well, as they could easily be watched and thinned; also many true shrubs that flower all the better for reasonable pruning.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _HEDGE OF MAIDEN'S BLUSH ROSE (6 feet to 7 feet high)._]

Any one would be surprised to see what a quant.i.ty of useful flowers such a hedge would yield, while, if there is another of foliage for winter use, it will be invaluable to the indoor decorator. We have just planted a hedge for this use, all of golden variegated or yellow-leaved shrubs, those chosen being the Scotch Gold Holly, Golden Euonymus, Golden Privet, yellow variegated Box, and Golden Tree Ivy, all shrubs of the utmost value for winter cuttings. Though they are barely 2 feet high as yet, the slightly varied golden hedge is already a pleasant, cheering sight in the quickly-shortening November days.

Other flower hedges are also delightful possessions. Hedges of China Rose, of Lavender, of Sweetbriar, of old garden Roses, or of climbing or rambling Roses trained down, of Honeysuckles, of Jasmine; some of these are occasionally seen, but of a good selection of true shrubs hedges are rarely if ever made.