Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia Volume II Part 20

(*Footnote. P. rodneyanum, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; patentim pilosum, caule subterraneo horizontali cra.s.so fragili ramos erectos promente apice tantum epigaeos foliosos, ramulis herbaceis erectis, foliis ovato-oblongis sublobatis basi cuneatis obtusis grosse crenatis tenuibus glabriusculis longipetiolatis, pedunculis erectis foliis longioribus, umbellis tomentosis 8-10-floris demum laxis divaricatis, petalis anguste obovatis calyce triplo longioribus, staminum tubo obliquo: sterilium 3 denticuliformibus, fortilium 2 sterilibus interjectis caeteris longioribus.)

DIFFERENT HABITS OF THE SAVAGE AND CIVILIZED.

At this camp where we lay shivering for want of fire, the different habits of the aborigines and us, strangers from the north, were strongly contrasted. On that freezing night the natives, according to their usual custom, stripped off all their clothes previous to lying down to sleep in the open air, their bodies being doubled up around a few burning reeds.

We could not understand how they could lay thus naked when the earth was white with h.o.a.r frost; and they were equally at a loss to know how we could sleep in our tents without a bit of fire to keep our bodies warm.

For the support of animal heat, fire and smoke are almost as necessary to them as clothes are to us. The naked savage however is not without some reason on his side, for fire is the only means he possesses to warm his body when cold, and it is therefore the only comfort he ever knows; whereas we require both fire and clothing and have no conception of the intensity of enjoyment imparted to the naked body of a savage by the glowing embrace of a cloud of smoke in winter. In summer also he may enjoy, unrestrained by dress, the luxury of a bath in any pool when not content with the refreshing breeze that fans his sensitive body during the intense heat. Amidst all this exposure the skin of the Australian native remains as smooth and soft as velvet, and it is not improbable that the obstructions of drapery would const.i.tute the greatest of his objections in such a climate to the permanent adoption of a civilised life.

A RANGE VISIBLE IN THE SOUTH.

June 22.

A night of hard frost was succeeded by a beautifully clear morning. The refraction brought the summits of a distant range above the south-east horizon; and the sight was so welcome to us, after having found Australia a mere desert from the want of hills, that I was at a loss for a name to give these that should sufficiently express my satisfaction. I found the breadth of the river at our camp to be 50 yards; and the velocity 4 chains (or 88 yards) in 127 seconds, being something less than a mile and a half per hour; and the height of the bank above the water to be 18 inches.

PECULIARITIES IN THE SURFACE OF THE COUNTRY NEAR THE RIVER.

The entirely open country through which the nearer river or branch continued to flow, and the lofty and remarkable trees on the banks of the other enabled me, in chaining along our route, to survey the course of both by fixing points on the more distant, and tracing the nearer. At length we approached a better-wooded country where clear green hills appeared to our right. I ascended the highest of these and discovered a vast plain beyond which appeared to be, or rather to have been, the bed of an extensive lake. I was now struck with the uncommon regularity of the curve described by the hill or ridge, having previously observed the same peculiarity in that which overlooked the lake of the savage tribe.

We pa.s.sed over some slight undulations covered with luxuriant gra.s.s, and were not sorry to see a wood of pines (or callitris) on our left. Large gumtrees (yarra) grew beyond and, the general course I wished to pursue leading towards them, I hoped to reach there an angle of the river. We found however that they hung over a small ana-branch only, in which the muddy flood-water of the river was then flowing. This stream was nevertheless exactly what we wanted, being safely accessible to our cattle, which the river itself was not. We therefore pitched our tents on a spot where there was excellent gra.s.s, and wood was again to be had in great abundance. We found in the adjacent scrub a remarkably rigid bush with stiff sickle-shaped blunt leaves and mealy b.a.l.l.s of flowers not quite expanded;* also an acacia resembling A. hispidula, but the leaves were quite smooth and much smaller.** In approaching this spot we had pa.s.sed along a low sandy ridge, every way resembling a beach but covered with pines and scrub. A bare gra.s.sy hill extended southward from each end of it; and the intervening hollow containing some water was evidently the bed of a lake, nearly dry.

(*Footnote. It is found to be an acacia related to A. multinervia. A.

farinosa, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramulis angulatis glabriusculis, phyllodiis rigidis carnosis incurvis linearibus apice latioribus mucronatis multinerviis glabris: margine superiore infra medium glanduloso, capitulis 2-4 axillaribus breviter pedunculatis farinosis.)

(**Footnote. For description see 19th September.)

June 23.

The most eastern of these smooth bare ridges was immediately above our camp and, observing in it the regularity of curve which I had noticed in others, I was struck with the a.n.a.logy, and in these ridges being always on the eastern sh.o.r.e of hollows or lakes, while the western was irregularly indented, and was in some parts so abrupt as to have the character of cliffs. The southern end of the ridges was generally the highest.

WATER OF THE LAKES BRACKISH, OR SALT.

Perceiving no reeds near the lake nor any birds upon it I sent Mr.

Stapylton to taste the water, which he found to be quite salt, like that of the sea. This and several of the other basins were surrounded by high ground and were without any communication with the river.

NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH.

I pa.s.sed soon after another of these circular basins which, although much smaller, presented similar features, and had some rather brackish water in pools in the deepest part. During the day's journey we pa.s.sed several ridges connected with extensive basins in a similar manner, and in the bottom of one of these I perceived Polygonum junceum growing amongst yarra trees. On the western sh.o.r.e we saw the remains of large native ash-hills. They were old and overgrown with bushes, but they proved that this lake had once contained mussels and the balyan or bulrush, a root eaten by the natives and cooked in such ovens as these. The other lake was surrounded by a circle of yarra trees and had but recently become dry, the earth in it being still without vegetation and covered with innumerable native companions and white c.o.c.katoos. Finding no indication of the river, notwithstanding the presence of so many yarra trees, I turned to the east towards another line of them which appeared still more promising. There however we encountered the dry bed only of a small creek which we crossed, and continued eastward, pa.s.sing over much gra.s.sy land, and through much wood of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus. We travelled thus upwards of seven miles beyond the dry creek without discovering any sign of the river, although we had previously traced it so far in pursuing a much more southerly direction.

NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH.

The natives were heard in this wood chopping with their stone hatchets but they fled at our approach. On entering a small plain we saw their deserted fire on the opposite side. Beyond this another plain, still more extensive, appeared before us, and a few yarra trees on the horizon gave some promise of water, though not of the river.

ARRIVAL IN THE DARK, ON THE BANK OF A WATERCOURSE.

Before I reached the spot and while far ahead of the party darkness had overtaken us; but I found there a deep creek with some water in large ponds; and by lighting a fire the carts at length came up to us, after a journey of nineteen miles. This seemed by moonlight such a singular place that I was anxious for daylight to see at what we had arrived.

June 24.

I expected to find the main stream not far from the ponds, but the morning light shone over a plain which extended in a north-western direction to the very horizon. It was bounded on the north by very distant trees which had not the usual appearance of trees distinguishing the river. The country on all sides seemed perfectly level, and if there was any exception at all it was in the box forests to the southward whence we had come, and where the land seemed lower than the plain on which we had encamped. The bed of the creek was full twenty feet below the general surface. The symmetry of the curves described by it was remarkable, and it was rendered still more striking by a narrow line of rushes which had grown on the margin of the water when it had stood at a much higher level.

DEAD SAPLINGS OF TEN YEARS GROWTH IN THE PONDS.

A concentric border of gra.s.s of uniform breadth grew on the slope above the rushes, and one of fragrant herbs below the line of rushes, all being at nearly equal distances; while a single row of bare poles measuring from three to five inches in diameter stood where a row of saplings had grown in what had, at one time, been the very centre of the stream. These poles were the remains of yarra trees eight or ten years old, and marked the extent doubtless of a long period of drought which had continued until some high flood killed them.

DISCOVERY OF MOUNT HOPE.

The gra.s.s was excellent over the whole of the plains on both sides and, from a tree near the camp, Burnett descried a goodly hill bearing 36 1/2 degrees East of South and distant, as afterwards ascertained, twenty-two miles.

Near our camp we found some recent fireplaces of the natives, from which they must have hastily escaped on our approach for, in the branches of a tree, they had left their net bags containing the stalks of a vegetable that had apparently undergone some culinary process, which gave them the appearance of having been half boiled. Vegetables are thus cooked, I was told, by placing the root or plant between layers of hot embers until it is heated and softened. The stalks found in the bag resembled those of the potato, and they could only be chewed, such food being neither nutritious nor palatable for it tasted only of smoke.* A very large ash-hill, raised no doubt by repeated use in such simple culinary operations, and probably during the course of a great many years, was close to our camp. On its ample surface were just visible the vestiges of a very ancient grave, once encompa.s.sed by exactly the same kind of ridges that I had observed around the inhabited tomb near the junction of the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee. The natives were at length seen about two miles off on the skirts of the wood; and although I sent forward the overseer and Piper, each carrying a large green bough, they all ran away, leaving behind them their spears and skin cloaks.

(*Footnote. July 17 1838. This plant has at length flowered in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick and proves to be a new species of Pieris of which Dr. Lindley has favoured me with the following description: P. barbarorum; spa.r.s.e hispida, foliis ciliatis supra nitidis scabriusculis radicalibus spathulato-lanceolatis subdentatis caulinis oblongis sessilibus amplexi-caulibus recurvis dentatis integrisque, caule stricto ramoso, involucri foliolis lineari-lanceolatis acutis apice vel secus dorsum serie simplici pilorum longorum reflexorum appendiculatis, achaeniis badiis longe rostratis transverse rugosissimis disci sterilibus.)

While the party proceeded eastward along the bank of Moonlight creek, as we named it, I sent Mr. Stapylton across the wide plain to ascertain, if possible, whether the river flowed through it without the usual indication of trees on its banks, as we had found to be the case below.

Mr. Stapylton found beyond the northern limits of the plain, amongst yarra trees, an ana-branch only, but containing quite clear and still water.

The course of the creek which I in the meantime traced first led me to the north-east where high trees seemed to mark its course, to the bed of the river; but a smaller branch, still dry, extended southward from it, which, on returning to the main party, I found it desirable that the carts should cross. We next pa.s.sed for three miles through a forest of goborro, and then crossed a plain three miles in extent. Beyond the plain we approached a promising line of lofty yarra trees, but found it shaded only a hollow subject to inundations. Two miles and a half further we came to another similar line of trees, and we found within its shade an ana-branch full of clear water. A little in advance a much deeper branch afforded a good spot for our camp, as I intended to cross it by some means in the afternoon and seek for the river.

ENTER A MUCH BETTER COUNTRY.

The plains we had crossed this day were covered with excellent gra.s.s; and in many places detached groups of trees gave to the country a park-like appearance very unlike anything on the banks of the Darling.

After crossing the creek by means of a fallen tree, I found the ground beyond to be of the richest description, with excellent gra.s.s and lofty yarra trees growing upon it. I pa.s.sed through two separate strips of high reeds extending north-east and south-west; but I found they only enveloped lagoons of soft mud and, seeing no appearance of the river at two miles from the camp, I returned. We found on the hills a little bush, very like European heaths, having the branches covered with small three-cornered leaves and tipped with cl.u.s.ters of small pink flowers.*

(*Footnote. Baeckea micrantha.)

LIMESTONE.

June 25.

The country we pa.s.sed over this day was upon the whole richer in point of gra.s.s than any we had seen since we left Sydney; I therefore suspected that the soil had some better rock for a basis than sandstone; and I had reason to believe that it was limestone, from indications of subsidence which I observed on the surface.

CURIOUS CHARACTER OF AN ORIGINAL SURFACE.

We had discovered no similar country during either of the two former journeys. There were none of the acacia trees we had seen on the lower Bogan; while the gra.s.ses were also different from any of those on the Darling. A fine new species of Daviesia, very like a Grevillea and forming a most singular bush, grew here. It had no leaves, but green branches formed into short, broad, thick vertical plates arranged spirally, and much lower than the little axillary cl.u.s.ters of flowers which were just beginning to open.* We also met with bushes of the rare Trymalium majoranaefolium, a h.o.a.ry bush with cl.u.s.ters of small grey flowers, enclosed when young in a bright, large membranous involucre.

Once or twice distant rows of lofty gumtrees appeared to indicate the line of the river; but on approaching them we found either dry hollows or the same ana-branch, as it seemed, on which we last encamped. I observed at several places that the more dense box-forests near this branch of the river were skirted with ground broken into low undulations six or eight feet square. These appeared where there was great depth of soil, and were probably caused by deep rents or cracks opened at the first induration of the deposit, and subsequently modified by rain and other atmospheric agents. This seems to be the state of the deep deposits at the present day where, from the absence of trees, the surface of tenacious soils remains visible. I was first struck with this effect in the clays near the Darling where alternate saturation and desiccation seemed to check all vegetation. On the upper parts of the Bogan also I saw these inequalities on a very large scale, but there the hollows still exist under dense forests of casuarinae, and are so deep and extensive that I for some time was induced to examine them in hopes of finding water; but from a small hole or fissure still remaining there I soon learnt that any such search was hopeless.

(*Footnote. D. pectinata, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; glabra, aphylla, ramis lateralibus ensiformibus cra.s.sis rigidis spinosis verticalibus pectinatim spiralibus dorso decurrentibus racemulis glomeratis multo longioribus.)

When we had travelled some miles, the hill we had seen from the camp on Moonlight creek bore exactly south by compa.s.s, and appeared to be about half the distance that it was from us when discovered. At 3 1/2 miles we again came upon the ana-branch; a slight current now appeared in it and the water was tinged with the turbid colour of the main stream.

LAST CAMP ON THE MURRAY.

After winding around several of its turnings we encamped at one P.M.

beside a large pool. This day's journey was nearly fourteen miles.

June 26.

The barometer being unusually low, and some long journeys having prevented me from laying down my surveys of the lakes as well as having fatigued the cattle, I halted here with the intention of filling up my maps, refreshing the animals, and reconnoitring the country to the south-west, in which direction a vast extent was unexplored. The river we had endeavoured to trace thus far was now so shut in by ana-branches that it could rarely be seen at all; but I had now brought the survey of it so far upwards that I should be able to trace it, or its several tributaries, downwards upon the same point when returning to the northward, under the western extremities of the Snowy Range. I hoped then also to obtain a better knowledge of the branches composing the Murray than we possessed at this time.

This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to cross the piece of water where we had encamped, and endeavour to find the river in a north-east direction; but he ascertained that the watercourse turned northward, and to the west of north, without entering the river, as far as he traced it. He then returned after having followed its course five miles without falling in with the main stream. His party saw some of the natives who could not be induced to stop by all the calls of Piper.