Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia Volume II Part 19

Through the intervening valley flowed the Murray, the course of which was seldom visible as no trees grew along its border. Under such circ.u.mstances we could not encamp upon the bank, neither could it be safely approached by cattle; and our prospect of obtaining wood and watering our animals was this day rather uncertain. At length we came upon a path which Mr. Stapylton pursued amongst high reeds for a mile without reaching the river as we both expected. I continued to travel towards four trees on the side of a green hill, still at a great distance but in the direction in which I wished to proceed.

JUNCTION OF TWO BRANCHES. SWAN HILL.

When we arrived there just before sunset we had the good fortune to find close under the hill a bend of the Murray, and to discover the junction of another river or branch with it at this point. Within the margin we found a small pond quite accessible to the cattle, and behind the hill was an extensive flat covered with the richest gra.s.s. Here therefore we could encamp most contentedly beside a clear hill, always a desirable neighbour, and an accessible river. We were also thus enabled to determine the junction perhaps of two rivers, an important object in geography. The lat.i.tude was 35 degrees 19 minutes 43 seconds South.

The lesser stream was about 50 yards wide, but below the junction the main stream divided into two branches so that I was doubtful whether this might not be only the termination of an ana-branch. From the falling off of the bergs on the distant right bank, and the approach of a line of lofty trees from the same quarter, I was almost convinced that some junction took place thereabouts, as indeed the natives last seen had informed us. During the day columns of smoke arose behind us in the direction where we had seen these natives, and further eastward we perceived a widespreading conflagration, doubtless caused by them although this expression of ire troubled us but little so long as the flames did not approach our route. The scrubs now receded from the river, but the curious variety of acacias they contained still drew our attention towards them. We found this day several which were new. One with a rigid hard leaf, not in flower, resembled in many respects the A.

farinosa met with two days later, but it was perfectly smooth in all its parts.* Another appeared to be related to A. hispidula, but with much narrower leaves without the ragged cartilaginous margin of that species.**

(*Footnote. A. sclerophylla, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramulis angulatis glabriusculis, phyllodiis rigidis carnosis rectiusculis linearibus apice latioribus mucronulatis multinerviis glabris eglandulosis, capitulis 1-2 sessilibus glaberrimis.)

(**Footnote. A. aspera, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; phyllodiis oblongo-linearibus uninerviis mucronatis eglandulosis ramisque angulatis asperrimis, capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis villosis phyllodiis duplo brevioribus.)

CHAPTER 3.7.

Exploring through a fog.

Lakes.

Circular Lake of Boga.

Clear gra.s.sy hills.

Natives on the lake.

Scarcity of fuel on the bank of a deep river.

Different character of two rivers.

Unfortunate result of Piper's interview with the natives of the lake.

Discovery of the Jerboa in Australia.

Different habits of the savage and civilized.

A range visible in the south.

Peculiarities in the surface of the country near the river.

Water of the lakes brackish, or salt.

Natives fly at our approach.

Arrival in the dark, on the bank of a watercourse.

Dead saplings of ten years growth in the ponds.

Discovery of Mount Hope.

Enter a much better country.

Limestone.

Curious character of an original surface.

Native weirs for fish.

Their nets for catching ducks.

Remarkable character of the lakes.

Mr. Stapylton's excursion in search of the main stream.

My ride to Mount Hope.

White Anguillaria.

View from Mount Hope.

Return of Mr. Stapylton.

SWAN HILL.

June 21.

Among the reeds on the point of ground between the two rivers was a shallow lagoon where swans and other wild fowl so abounded that, although half a mile from our camp, their noise disturbed us through the night. I therefore named this somewhat remarkable and isolated feature Swan Hill, a point which may probably be found to mark the junction of two fine streams.

EXPLORING THROUGH A FOG.

I wished to devote the day to meteorological observations as prearranged with my friends in the Colony, Mr. Dunlop and Captain King; but a thick fog in the morning promised a day of clear settled weather, and I was obliged to proceed; I observed the barometer however every hour during the journey. For several miles we travelled through the mist over plains partly covered with reeds and partly with gra.s.s. Having reconnoitred the country on the previous evening I had no difficulty in pursuing the direction I then chose for this day's route.

LAKES. CIRCULAR LAKE OF BOGA.

At eleven A.M. when the fog arose I perceived a low gra.s.sy ridge before us; and a fine lake covered with black swans, ducks and other waterfowl was afterwards discovered beyond it. We pa.s.sed along the southern sh.o.r.e of this lake, thus keeping it between us and the river. It was surrounded with reeds and bulrushes, and appeared to be supplied by a small feeder from the river, like other similar lakes which we had seen near rivers elsewhere: but the water could pa.s.s by such small channels only during the highest floods, for the lake was even then very low, although the flood in the river was evidently high. This lake was about three miles in circ.u.mference.

CLEAR GRa.s.sY HILLS.

As I ascended a gra.s.sy hill two miles beyond it I perceived on my left another smaller lake; with no reeds about it, but with gra.s.s growing to the water's edge; and there we also found a curious little plant covered with short imbricated silvery leaves, but not in flower. Behind the lake, or away from the river, was the low scrub of the back country in which I again saw, just coming into flower, the Ca.s.sia heteroloba discovered on the 6th instant. On reaching the top of the hill I discovered to the eastward a third lake, much larger than either of the others, and apparently of a different character for its banks were higher, and it contained one or two small islets while the surface of the water was covered with some brown aquatic weed. It was bounded on the east by a ridge which seemed green, smooth, and quite clear of trees. A low neck of firm ground separated the lake first seen from this; and it was also connected with the hill on which I then stood.

NATIVES ON THE LAKE.

In one place, a narrow line of high reeds appearing likely to impede us, Mr. Stapylton rode forward to examine it. As he reached the spot much smoke suddenly arose, evidently from natives whom he had thus accidentally disturbed. He nevertheless pressed forward amongst the reeds, and soon reappeared on the green hill beyond, thus showing us there was no obstruction, and the carts proceeded through. These reeds enveloped a small creek or hollow through which the floods of the river supplied the lake. In one part was a pool of water, and in another the bottom was so soft that the united strength of two teams was necessary to draw out the wheel of a cart which sunk into it. We found there the huts of natives who had fled on Mr. Stapylton's approach, having left their fishing spears, skin cloaks, shields, etc. They soon appeared on the lake in twenty-four canoes, all making for the little isle in the centre which, being covered with reeds, was probably their stronghold according to their modes of warfare. The aquatic tribes, as I have elsewhere observed, invariably take to the water in times of alarm, and from among the reeds in their little island these people could easily throw their spears at any a.s.sailant without being themselves exposed, or even seen.

Piper found in their huts some fragments of blue earthenware, nicely attached with gum to threads by which it would appear that the gins wore them in their hair as ornaments.

SCARCITY OF FUEL ON THE BANK OF A DEEP RIVER.

Being desirous to learn the native names of these lakes, and to obtain some information respecting the rivers, I requested Piper and the two Tommies to remain behind for the purpose of obtaining a parley if possible. I should indeed have encamped by this lake had not the environs been entirely dest.i.tute of wood. Before us however, although at the distance of some miles, was a line of majestic trees which appeared to mark the course of a river; and I had directed Mr. Stapylton to lead the party through the reeds along an interval which appeared to be chiefly covered with gra.s.s, and by which I expected he would arrive at the line of high trees. Meanwhile I was occupied alone to the southward of the lake, surveying it. Near the margin I found a small fragment of highly vesicular lava.

DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER.

The ground traversed by the party was firm and, when I overtook it within a mile and a half of the line of trees, we came suddenly on a river full to the very margin, and flowing slowly to the westward, its width being about 50 yards. Not a tree grew near it, nor did I see any indication of a river until I reached the bank.

The ground presented an unbroken level, or declined slightly towards the line of trees which still marked, as I supposed, the course of the Murray. We had no means of reaching it however, nor any alternative left but to change our route towards the east-south-east and travel along the bank of this river, in hopes it might at last approach the trees. We found on the contrary that it receded from them towards a country without a single bush; and thus while the sun was setting on a raw frosty evening we could not encamp for want of fuel, although water and gra.s.s were abundant. One solitary group of trees seeming to be on our side of the stream, though distant about two miles, Mr. Stapylton and myself galloped towards them, the party following. There too we found the river, separating us even from these trees, three very small ones only being on our side, and likely to fall when cut into the stream. It had become quite dark before we got to them but, by lighting some reeds, the rest of the party found its way to us; and there we encamped, although the green wood could not be made to burn, while the thermometer stood so low as 29 degrees. We were perhaps more sensible of the want of fuel from the abundance so apparent on the banks of what seemed another river at so small a distance across the open plain.

DIFFERENT CHARACTER OF TWO RIVERS.

These streams flowing so near each other seemed in this respect distinctly different: the one being edged with only reeds, the other with lofty trees like almost every interior river of New South Wales.

UNFORTUNATE RESULT OF PIPER'S INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES OF THE LAKE.

Piper came in soon after the carts arrived, bringing a sad account of his interview with the natives. It appeared that, as soon as our party had proceeded to some distance from the lake, twelve men sprang from among the reeds armed with spears, boomerangs, etc., and when Piper accosted one of them, inquiring the name of the lake "I wont tell you," was the answer (murry coolah, i.e. very angrily). They then told him there was "too much ask" about him, and they blamed him for bringing the whitefellows there; adding that they did not like him; and an old man calling to the rest to kill him, for that he was no good, two spears were immediately thrown. These Piper parried with his carabine, and then instantly discharged it at the foremost, wounding him in the right jaw.

The rest immediately disappeared among the reeds. The wounded savage fell, but Piper loaded again and killed him by another shot through the body. Such was Piper's story. I blamed him very much for firing at the wounded man, and I regretted exceedingly the result of his interview. I was besides most anxious to maintain a good understanding with these people.

The spears used on this occasion were made of reed and pointed with bones of the emu; but we saw at their huts several heavy jagged ones of very hard wood for the purposes of fishing. The natives wore cloaks made of kangaroo skins.

DISCOVERY OF THE JERBOA IN AUSTRALIA.

A very curious and rare little quadruped was this day found by the two Tommies, who had never before seen such an animal. Its fore and hind legs resembled in proportion those of the kangaroo; and it used the latter by leaping on its hindquarters in the same manner as that animal. It was not much larger than a common fieldmouse, but the tail was longer in proportion to the rest of the body even than that of a kangaroo, and terminated in a hairy brush about two inches long.* (Plate 29.)

(*Footnote. This appears to be a species of Jerboa, thus for the first time seen by us in Australia. My friend Mr. Ogilby has described this animal in the Linnean Transactions from my drawing and descriptions; the specimen itself having been deposited in the Australian Museum at Sydney.

Dipus mitch.e.l.lii, D. plantis subpentadactylis; corpore supra cinereo-fusco, subtus albido; auriculis magnis, cauda longissima, floccosa. Linnean Transactions volume page 129.)

We also discovered a beautiful new species of the Cape genus Pelargonium, which would be an acquisition to our gardens. I named it P. rodneyanum*

in honour of Mrs. Riddell at Sydney, grand-daughter of the famous Rodney.