The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Volume II Part 11

GOSPORT.

Gosport, of which our engraving represents a view, is a small, but important town, adjoining Portsmouth, from which it is separated by a wide channel, forming part of the extensive basin known as Portsmouth Harbour, and containing a large number of our "wooden walls;" some in a condition ready to put to sea at a few hours' notice, others lying in ordinary, as it is termed, that is, without rigging, sails, or other fittings requisite to render them complete and efficient for service, but which are speedily provided when required. Portsmouth, Gosport, and the neighbouring towns--including Portsea and Landport--form one extensive fortified position, protected at every point from the attacks of an enemy; they are enclosed by broad earthworks, along the extent of which are mounted heavy guns, commanding the various drawbridges which cross the moat surrounding the works. At a short distance from the town is a large range of barracks for the marines, capable of accommodating upwards of a thousand men--a portion of the building, including the house of the commandant, has but recently been completed. Near this is a new prison, devoted entirely to military occupation; it is a substantial building of red brick, and well adapted for the accommodation of its inmates consistent with its character as a penal establishment.

Close to the harbour, and within the fortifications, is an immense pile of imposing appearance, called the Clarence Victualling-yard; the most interesting feature of which is, the admirable but simple steam-machinery employed in making biscuits for the navy. In the precincts of this immense depository are also included a cooperage, brewhouse, and slaughterhouse, which supply the navy with the stores requisite for their various destinations, including wines and spirits, of which a large stock is constantly kept here. The quay at which her Majesty embarks for her private residence, Osborne House, in the Isle of Wight, is situated in this yard, which is connected with the main line of the South-Western Railway, by a small branch running from the terminus, devoted solely to the use of her Majesty and the Lords of the Admiralty. There are two churches in the town, St. Mathew's, near the entrance to the Clarence-yard, and Trinity; the former consists entirely of free sittings, the latter is a chapel of ease to the parish church, situated at Alverstoke, a small village, at a distance of little more than a mile from the town. There are also a Catholic chapel, two Wesleyan chapels, and two Congregational chapels in the town.

Of late years the neighbourhood of Gosport has much improved; many handsome and commodious villas, and other residences, having been erected at various times. Anglesea, which adjoins Alverstoke, is quite a new neighbourhood, and has but recently come into existence, consisting princ.i.p.ally of residences for the gentry during the summer months. The town of Ryde, in the Isle of Wight, is situated opposite to this spot, and between them lies the Solent, which at times is enlivened by the appearance of some ships of war lying at anchor, and frequently of large fleets of merchant ships detained here from stress of weather, or waiting a favourable wind to convey them to their respective destinations. At the mouth of the harbour, on the Gosport side, is situated Blockhouse Fort, opposite to a similar one on the Portsmouth side, embrasured with heavy guns for protecting the entrance to the harbour, which is approached only by a circuitous channel, commanded on the one side by the guns of Southsea Castle, and on the other by those of Fort Monckton, at a short distance from which has recently been erected another fort, to protect the entrance to the Southampton Water.

Adjoining Blockhouse Fort are barracks for the Royal Artillery, and at Fort Monckton, barracks for infantry. Near the latter is Haslar Hospital, devoted to the reception of sick members of the navy and marines; it is a handsome quadrangular building of red brick, and affords accommodation for a large number of patients; within its walls are included a church, and a Museum of Natural History, which is well supplied with specimens, and to which additions are being continually made by the officers and gentlemen connected with the service. At the foot of the High-street, Gosport, is the landing-place for pa.s.sengers by the steam ferry, or floating bridge, as it is called, which plies between Gosport and Portsmouth every half-hour, and forms the only means of communication for carriages and vehicles of all kinds. In addition to the steam ferry is a staff of watermen, busily plying their calling during the absence of the bridge, and securing the stray pa.s.sengers that may prefer their mode of transport, or have arrived too late for the other conveyance. During certain states of the weather, the danger and difficulty of managing their boats ent.i.tle the watermen to increased fares, which are indicated by certain coloured flags hoisted conspicuously over the town hall, near the beach, and regulated by a person appointed by the licensing magistrates. The climate of this part is healthy, and well adapted for persons with weak lungs, or affections to which a cold, keen, air would be unfavourable.

[Ill.u.s.tration: MEN OF WAR AT SPITHEAD.]

MEN-OF-WAR AT SPITHEAD.

In this Engraving (a vignette) is presented a stern-view of a seventy-four, with her guess-warp booms[11] out, moored at Spithead. To the right is a victualling hoy, dropping alongside of the seventy-four; and in the distance is seen a first-rate. The time is evening, which invests the whole scene with its calm. We may conclude that the day has been fine, as both ships seem to have availed themselves of the opportunity thus afforded of "drying hammocks;" they are seen suspended from their yards and between their masts.

The roadstead of Spithead, which is sufficiently large to afford convenient anchorage for nearly all the ships of the British navy, lies between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight; and the usual place in which ships of war ride is about three miles distant from Portsmouth harbour.

It derives its name from the _Spit_, or end of a sand bank, extending from the western sh.o.r.e of the estuary towards Southsea Castle, about a mile below Portsmouth. The channel for the harbour, from Spithead, is comparatively narrow, and is commanded by the batteries at Southsea Castle. To the westward of Spithead is the sand called the Motherbank, on the edge of which merchantmen generally anchor; and to the north-eastward are St. Helen's roads, a frequent rendezvous as well for ships of war as for vessels in the merchant service. All these roadsteads are protected from southerly winds by the high land of the Isle of Wight.

Within the last few years considerable interest has been excited by the attempts which have been made to raise the guns, and various other articles, belonging to the Royal George, which sank at Spithead on 29th August, 1782. This ship carried 108 guns, and was considered one of the finest in the navy, had just returned from sea, and, as she had made more water than usual for some time before, it was at first intended that she should go into dock. The surveying officers, however, having discovered that the leak was not very far below the water-line, it was resolved to repair the defect, with a view to saving time, by giving the ship a heel as she lay at her moorings at Spithead. On subsequent examination, it was found that a pipe which supplied the water for washing the decks required to be replaced, and, as it lay considerably below the water-line, it became necessary to give her a greater heel than had been at first contemplated. For the purpose of effecting this, some of her guns and part of her ballast were removed to the opposite side. As the ship lay thus considerably inclined on her side, she, from some cause that has not been clearly ascertained, gave an additional heel, and the water rushing in through her lower-deck ports, which had been carelessly left open, she almost instantly filled and sank, carrying down with her a victualling hoy that was lying alongside. At the time of the accident there were nearly twelve hundred persons on board, of which number about nine hundred, including two hundred and fifty women, were drowned. Among the sufferers were Admiral Kempenfelt and several of the officers. About three hundred persons, chiefly belonging to the ship's crew, were saved. Admiral Sir P. Durham, at that time one of the lieutenants of the Royal George, was on board when the accident happened, and saved himself by swimming to the sh.o.r.e.

Mr. Kingstone, of the Portsmouth dockyard, who went down to the wreck in a diving-bell in 1817, gives the following account of its appearance at that time:--"The quarter-deck, forecastle, and roundhead, with the larboard topside as low down as the range of the upper deck, are entirely gone. The oak-strakes and midships of the flat of the upper deck are much decayed by worms in several places so as to show the beams and framing beneath. The whole of the fir appears as sound as when first laid. The deck is much twisted, from the ship's falling so much fore and aft. The wreck has a beautiful appearance when viewed about a fathom above the deck, being covered with small weeds, interspersed with sh.e.l.ls, star-fish, and a species of polypus, lying on a thin, greasy, grey sediment. All below the deck is a perfect solid of fine black mud; and, when suspended over the larboard side, she appears a rude ma.s.s of timber lying in all directions."

During the summer of 1853, Spithead was the scene of a grand marine review and sham fight. Her Majesty and Prince Albert were present, with a numerous suite of naval officers. The nautical skill displayed on the occasion received the highest encomiums from those best qualified to judge of its value; and the merit of the screw propeller, as attached to vessels of war, was strikingly manifested.

[11] The guess-warp booms are the spars suspended at right angles from a ship's side, to which the boats are made fast when she is moored.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BRIGHTON.

_SUSs.e.x._]

BRIGHTON.

Brighton is in the county of Suss.e.x, and lies about fifty-two miles south of London. The old name of the town was Brighthelmstone, which some antiquaries suppose to have been derived from Brighthelm, a Saxon bishop; while others suppose that it may be derived from the Saxon _beorht_, _briht_, _berht_, and _byrt_, signifying _bright_; _heal_, a light-house or watch-tower, a corner or point of a wedge, a hall; and the word _tun_, or _ton_, signifying a town.

The name, spelled Bristelmstune, occurs in Doomsday-book. Three manors are described under this name, and they all appear to have been formerly in the possession of Earl G.o.dwin, the father of King Harold. Brighton, or Brighthelmstone, until it began to be frequented as a watering-place, about the middle of the last century, is seldom noticed by historians; and until that period it never appears to have risen above the condition of a small fishing town. In 1313, John de Warren, then lord of the manor, obtained a charter to have a market at Brighthelmstone every Thursday; and in 1513 the place was pillaged by the French. In the reign of Henry VIII. a block-house was erected at Brighton; and this defence appears to have been either rebuilt or further strengthened in 1558.

About 1750, Brighton, which was then recovering from the depressed state in which it had been for upwards of a century, began to be visited during the summer as a bathing-place. In 1782, the Duke of c.u.mberland, brother to George III., when residing at Brighton, received a visit from the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV., and his royal highness was so much pleased with the place, that he determined to build for himself a marine residence there. The Pavilion was accordingly commenced in 1784; but from the alterations and additions which the royal owner was almost constantly making, it would be difficult to say when it was finished. On the decease of George IV., the Pavilion became the property of his successor, William IV., from whom it has descended to her present Majesty, who, disapproving of it as a marine residence, it was allowed to fall into decay, and was ultimately purchased from the crown by the corporation for upwards of 50,000. It is now open to the public for a small fee, and the larger rooms are occasionally used for b.a.l.l.s, concerts, and public meetings. The grounds are at all times available as promenades; and, whatever the architect may say of its merits, there can be no doubt that the edifice adds one to the many attractions of Brighton, and forms a favourite lounge for the visitors in weather which will not permit of recreation in the open air.

The Chain Pier is within a few minutes' walk of the Pavilion: it is constructed upon the suspension principle; the chains are supported by four pairs of towers, placed at a distance of nearly two hundred feet apart. It terminates in a circular platform furnished with an awning and seats, for the convenience of those who are desirous of inhaling the invigorating breeze from so advantageous a position; commanding, as it does, not only a prospect of the entire bay, but also an excellent view of the town. The expense of its erection was about 30,000; but it has, on several occasions, suffered from tempests, to which its great length and exposed position render it at all times peculiarly liable, yet the public spirit and liberality of the inhabitants have on each occasion speedily repaired the damage.

There is, perhaps, not another watering-place in the kingdom which can exhibit so imposing a front to the ocean. For an extent of nearly three miles Brighton displays a continuous line of handsome buildings, interspersed with squares, crescents, and terraces--all commanding views of the sea. The district of Kemp Town, at the eastern extremity of this line, deserves especial notice. Many of its mansions comprise all the luxuries and conveniences of the metropolis, with the sanitary advantages of marine villas; leaving nothing to be desired by the most fastidious taste, and affording accommodation for large establishments conducted upon a scale befitting the highest ranks of our aristocracy.

The proximity of Brighton to London, the short time in which the transit between the towns is accomplished--less than two hours, and the numerous trains which run during the day, give it at all times a decided advantage over other sea-bathing towns on the south coast, and make a popular excursion for those whom business or taste confines to the capital, and who cannot enjoy a lengthened stay at the coast.

The high grounds on the land side of Brighton afford unusual facilities for horse and carriage drives, and thus agreeably diversify the amus.e.m.e.nts of the day--an opportunity of which the inhabitants and visitors freely avail themselves. Of the bathing accommodations we have left ourselves no room to speak; but we may say they are of the highest character, replete with every convenience, and on a scale becoming a town of sixty thousand permanent residents.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HASTINGS.]

HASTINGS.

The town of Hastings is situated on the coast of Suss.e.x, about sixty-four miles S.S.E. of London. It has been supposed that the place was so called from Hastings, a Danish pirate, "who, where he landed for booty, built sometimes little fortresses; as we read, in a.s.serius Menevensis, of Beamflote Castle built by him in Ess.e.x, and of others at Appledore and Middleton in Kent"[12]. This conjecture, however, does not appear to be well founded; for there can be little doubt of the place having been called Hastings about the year 780, in the reign of King Offa, whereas Hastings, the pirate, did not invade England till about 880, in the reign of Alfred the Great. "Some there are," says Camden, "who ridiculously derive the name from the English word _haste_; because, as Matthew Paris writes, 'apud Hastings ligneum _agiliter_ castrum statuit Gulielmus Conquestor'--at Hastings William the Conqueror _hastily_ set up a fortress of timber." Truly, as old Fuller might have said, there has been more _haste_ than speed in the endeavour to provide this place with a G.o.dfather.

It is said that the old Saxon town of Hastings stood considerably to the southward of the present one, and that it was destroyed by the incursions of the sea previous to the Conquest. The town, however, would appear to have been in a short time rebuilt; for William the Conqueror, soon after landing at Pevensey, marched to Hastings, from whence he advanced about eight miles into the country, where he encountered the English army under Harold, at the place since called Battle, in commemoration of the event.

Hastings, though not the oldest, is considered to hold the first rank among the ancient maritime boroughs called the Cinque Ports, which were originally inst.i.tuted for the defence of the coast, and endowed with special privileges on condition of supplying a certain number of ships and mariners for that purpose. Dover, Sandwich, and Romney are considered the oldest of the Cinque Ports, as they are the only ones which are mentioned in Domesday as privileged ports. Hastings and Hythe are supposed to have been added by William the Conqueror; and the number being thus increased to _five_, occasioned the community to be called the _Cinque_ Ports. Although Winchelsea and Rye, which had previously been members of Hastings, were const.i.tuted princ.i.p.al ports at some period between the Conquest and the reign of King John, the name of _Cinque_ Ports still continued to be given to the community. The Cinque Ports are governed by a lord warden, who is also governor of Dover Castle. A certain number of persons (called Barons) deputed from the Cinque Ports, have the privilege of supporting the canopies above the king and queen at coronations.

There was formerly a pier at Hastings, at which vessels could unload; but it was destroyed in a violent storm, about the commencement of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and never rebuilt. From the remains of this pier, which are still to be seen at low water, it appears to have run out in a south-eastern direction from the centre of the Marine Parade, below where the fort now stands. The fort, in a great measure, answers the purpose of a breakwater in resisting the waves, which in high tides, accompanied with a strong wind from the seaward, would otherwise be likely to do serious damage to the lower part of the town.

The trade of Hastings is very inconsiderable; its imports being chiefly coals for the consumption of the town, and its exports princ.i.p.ally oak timber and plank, for the purposes of ship-building. The great supports of the town are the numerous visitors who take lodgings there during the bathing season, and the fishery, which gives employment to about 500 persons. What may now be considered the old town of Hastings is situated in a hollow between two hills, the East and the Castle-hill, and consists chiefly of two streets, which run nearly parallel to each other, and are called High-street and All-Saints-street. The new town of Hastings, which has been almost wholly erected within the last thirty years, lies to the south and westward of the Castle-hill, so called from the ruins of the old castle on its top. There are two old churches at Hastings, St. Clement's and All-Saints', and a modern chapel, St.

Mary's, in Pelham-crescent, immediately under the Castle-hill. From the accommodation which it affords to visitors, and the beauty and interest of the walks and rides in its vicinity, Hastings is one of the most agreeable watering-places on the southern coast of England.

[12] Camden's Britannia, Bishop Gibson's Translation.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HASTINGS.]

HASTINGS.

FROM THE BEACH.