The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Volume II Part 10

THE WALLS.

"Of yore, SOUTHAMPTON, by thy briny flood, Girt with his courtly train, great Canute stood; And, turning from the disobedient wave, A check severe to servile flattery gave."

The accompanying View shows a portion of those ancient fortifications within which the town of Southampton was originally enclosed. The walls are in many places quite demolished; but in others they still present a venerable, though dilapidated appearance, with the remains of several towers at regular intervals, after the manner of fortified cities. The circuit of the walls is computed at nearly two miles. With regard to the precise date at which the walls were erected, there is no certain record. The north, east, and south walls bear every mark of uniform regularity in their structure: the gates of the town are apparently of the same date with the walls, and much resemble each other in the ma.s.sy, flat form of their pointed arches, which rise at an angle from their piers, being struck from centres below the level of their spring--a mode of construction chiefly used in the reign of Edward the First. Yet the remains of semicircular towers, still visible on the Bargate, and which flanked its round arch, very much resembling the towers on the north and east walls, lead us to suspect that the wall, on the land side at least, is of higher antiquity than the time of the Edwards, and that the present gates were built later than the wall. The very singular position of the Water-gate, which retires thirty feet behind the eastern part of the south wall, and the awkward position of the South-gate, at the very angle of the wall, seem to indicate that these gates were not parts of the original design. From the south-west angle of the wall, quite to the Bridle-gate, which was close to the vallum of the Castle, the whole wall is a ma.s.s of irregular and almost inexplicable construction. It is conjectured that the side of the town, protected as it was by the Castle, and covered by the sea, was not at all, or but very slightly fortified, until the fatal experience of the sack of the town by the French proved that some further defence was necessary. The line of the town wall, south of the West-gate, is irregular in its construction; and the wall between the West and Bridle-gates bears evident marks of having been built in the most hasty manner, and with the greatest economy of materials. This wall, in its present form, Sir Henry Englefield supposes to have been built about the period when, according to the old historians, Richard the Second fortified the town, and built, or probably repaired and strengthened, the Castle, for it had evidently been built several centuries before his reign.

At the accession of Henry the Eighth, the port of Southampton was much frequented by foreign merchant vessels, particularly those of Venice, which traded largely in wool and tin. But the exportation of wool being prohibited by the legislature, the Levant merchants gradually resorted to other ports, and, now deserted by her commercial friends, Southampton found her resources greatly impoverished. About the commencement of the last century, however, the tide flowed once more in her favour, and, continuing to increase, has at length placed her in a position of unprecedented prosperity. But to this happy result the erecting of new docks, an improved harbour, and, above all, communication with London by railway, have mainly contributed. The terminus to the latter, begun and completed in 1839, is a very pleasing piece of Italian composition, with a projecting rusticated arcade of five arches below, and the same number of pedimental windows to the upper floor. The facade, nearly seventy feet in length, is considerably extended in its lower part by screen-walls, which take a sweep from the building.

The princ.i.p.al trade of Southampton is with Portugal and the Baltic, and with the islands of Guernsey and Jersey. Hemp, iron, and tallow are imported from Russia; tar and pitch from Sweden; and from Portugal, wine and fruit.

The environs of Southampton are particularly interesting and agreeable--enlivened with elegant seats, romantic ruins, picturesque villages, and much beautiful scenery, which never fail to attract a great confluence of visitors during the fine season. Among these Netley Abbey is the grand attraction. The town itself is rich in vestiges of antiquity; and, in its modern character, presents all the _agremens_ to be met with in our most fashionable watering-places.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ENTRANCE TO PORTSMOUTH HARBOUR.]

PORTSMOUTH.

ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.

In the front of this view, and towards the right, a man-of-war cutter is seen running out of the harbour; and, from her heel to leeward, and the agitated state of the water, we may perceive that it is blowing a stiff breeze. Vessels of her cla.s.s are chiefly employed in the coast-guard service and as admirals' tenders, or as packets on short voyages, or in communicating between one naval depot and another. In the distance, to leeward of her, the Dock-yard semaph.o.r.e is perceived; and more to the right, but nearer to the eye of the spectator, is seen the Round Tower; from which, in former times, an immense chain used to extend to the Block-house at Gosport, on the opposite side of the channel, for the purpose of protecting the entrance to the harbour, in the event of its being a.s.sailed by the ships of an enemy. Towards the centre of the engraving a broad-side view is presented of the Port-Admiral's flag-ship, a first-rate, which, from the flags at her mast-head, appears to be making a signal; ahead of her, in the distance, the hulls are perceived of two ships of war, laid up in ordinary; and further to the left is seen part of the Block-house Fort, at Gosport, with a beacon, to direct vessels in making the harbour.

Portsmouth harbour is one of the most secure and commodious in the kingdom; and from the depth of water, both within it and at its mouth, ships of the line can enter or depart at all times of the tide. From the narrowness of its entrance,--which, between the old Round Tower at Portsmouth and the Block-house Fort at Gosport, is not wider than the Thames at London-bridge,--it is protected from the swell of the sea; while it is sheltered from the violence of winds blowing off the land, by the range of hills to the northward. Immediately above its entrance the harbour begins to expand, and about a mile and a half above the old Round Tower it is nearly two miles in breadth. It then branches off into three princ.i.p.al creeks, or _leats_, as they are frequently called; one of which runs up to Fareham, another to Porchester Castle, and the third to Portsbridge. In these creeks most of the men-of-war in ordinary are moored. As those ships, when laid up, are each covered over with a large wooden roof, to protect them from the effects of the weather, they appear, when seen from Portsdown Hill, which commands an excellent view of the harbour, not so much like floating castles as like immense floating barns--ample garners, which would contain more corn than the swords and cutla.s.ses of their former gallant crews, beat into reaping-hooks, will ever cut down!

At Portsmouth the tide flows about seven hours and ebbs about five; and the velocity with which the ebb tide runs out effectually scours the channel at the mouth of the harbour, and prevents the acc.u.mulation of sand. It is high water in the harbour at half-past 11 o'clock at the full and change of the moon; and the rise of spring tides is about eighteen feet, and of neaps about twelve. In the months of March and April the specific gravity of the water in Portsmouth harbour becomes so much increased, that ships lying there are observed to float about two inches lighter than at other times of the year. The lat.i.tude of the Observatory in the Dock-yard is 50 48' 3" north; longitude 1 5' 59"

west.

Though Portsmouth does not appear to have been a place of much consideration as a naval station previous to the reign of Henry VIII., who may be regarded as the first English King that established a permanent royal navy, it was yet undoubtedly a town of some consequence long before that time. In 1194, Richard I. granted a charter to the inhabitants, wherein, after declaring that he retains the town of "Portsmue" in his own hands, he establishes an annual fair to be held therein for fifteen days, to which all persons of England, Normandy, Poictou, Wales, Scotland, and all others, either foreigners or his own people, might freely resort, and enjoy the same privileges as at the fairs of Winchester, Hoiland, or elsewhere in his dominions. The burgesses of "Portsmue," as the place was then called, were also allowed to have a weekly market, with the same privileges and immunities as those of Winchester and Oxford; with freedom from all tolls of portage, pa.s.sage, and stallage, and exemption from suit and service at hundred and county courts.[9] This charter was confirmed in 1201 by King John, and in 1230 by Henry II.; and in 1256 the latter monarch granted another charter, establishing a guild of merchants at Portsmouth. The privileges of the burgesses were at several different times confirmed by succeeding kings; and, in 1627, Charles I. granted them a charter, whereby a mayor and twelve aldermen were appointed for the civil government of the town.

This charter, which was renewed by Charles II., has since been modified by the Munic.i.p.al Reform Bill of 1835, which directs that the borough shall be divided into six wards, which shall elect a town council of forty-two members. In 1298 the borough was summoned to send two members to Parliament, a privilege which it continues to enjoy.

[9] Anderson's History of Commerce, vol. i., p. 180., edit. 1787.

[Ill.u.s.tration: RIGGING HULK AND FRIGATE, PORTSMOUTH.]

PORTSMOUTH.

RIGGING-HULK, WITH A NEW FRIGATE ALONGSIDE.

In this engraving we have a view of a new frigate, with only her lower masts in, lying alongside of the _Topaze_ rigging-hulk. The latter vessel--which now presents so clumsy an appearance, from her bows and sides being sheathed with a stout doubling of timber, and from a wooden house being built over her stem--was formerly a French frigate, and, when she first came into our possession, she was much admired by nautical men for the beauty of her build. Further in the distance, to the right, is seen a first-rate lying off the Dockyard Quay, partly rigged; and, beyond her, are perceived the immense wooden roofs which cover the building-slips. The line of building to the right is the rigging-house, and the tower erected above it is the Dockyard Semaph.o.r.e.

On the extreme right, towards the front, is seen the forepart of a mooring-lighter, with one of the numerous spar-booms lying afloat near the Common Hard. The original picture was exhibited in the Gallery of the British Inst.i.tution, where it excited general admiration.

The great naval depot at Portsmouth is partially described in connection with other engravings in this work, and we have therefore thought it might be interesting to occupy our present s.p.a.ce with some details respecting the peculiar mode in which one very important portion of the rigging is manufactured in this yard, and which forms a princ.i.p.al object of curiosity to all persons visiting it. We allude to the machinery for manufacturing blocks, invented by Mr. Brunel, the celebrated engineer.

After the wood--generally elm--for the sh.e.l.l of the block is cut into proper sizes by circular-saws, its complete formation, including the pin and the sheave, is effected by means of several different machines, all contrived with the greatest mechanical skill, and put in motion by a steam-engine. The first process is that of the boring-machine, which, by means of a centre-bit, pierces a hole to receive the pin, and at the same time, according as the block is intended to be single or double, forms one or two similar holes, at right angles to the former, to receive the first stroke of the chisel which cuts out the s.p.a.ce for the sheave. By the second, called the mortising-machine, this s.p.a.ce is cut out by a chisel acting vertically, and making about a hundred and twenty strokes a minute, and under which the block is caused to move gradually, so that at each stroke a thin piece of the wood is cut away.

After this the block is taken to a circular-saw, which cuts off the corners, and reduces it to the form of an octagon. The shaping-machine, to which it is next taken, consists of two equal and parallel wheels moving on the same axis, to which one of them is permanently fixed, while the other is moveable in the line of the axis, so that, by sliding it nearer to the former, or more apart, as may be required, the sh.e.l.ls of blocks of all sizes may be fixed between their two parallel rims. Ten sh.e.l.ls of the same size being firmly fixed at regular intervals between those rims, the wheels are put into motion with extreme velocity, and the sh.e.l.ls are rounded by striking against a cutting instrument, which at the same time moves in such a manner as to give to each block its proper shape and curvature. When one half of the side has thus been finished, the motion of the wheels is reversed, and the other half finished in the same manner. When one side has been rounded, the sh.e.l.ls are reversed, and the other side completed as above. The last process which the sh.e.l.l undergoes consists in scooping out the groove for the strap, or "strop," as the rope is called, which goes round the block.

The sh.e.l.l is now completed, and the visitor is next shown the different processes in forming the sheave and the pin.

The sheaves are generally made of lignum-vitae; and the first operation is performed by a circular-saw, which cuts the wood into pieces of a proper thickness. By a second machine the holes for the pins are bored, and they are formed into perfect circles by means of a crown-saw. The third, called the coaking-machine, is an admirable specimen of mechanical ingenuity. By its operation, a small cutter drills out round the pin-hole--to a certain depth from the flat surface of the sheave--three semicircular grooves, for the reception of the metal coak, or bush, which sustains the friction of the pin. So truly are those grooves formed, that the slight tap of a hammer is sufficient to fix the coak in its place. The fourth operation consists in casting the coaks.

By a fifth, after being fitted in the grooves, holes are drilled in the coaks, for the reception of the pins which fasten them to the sheaves; and by a sixth the pins are rivetted. By the seventh operation, the central hole in the coak for the pin, on which the sheave turns, is drilled out. By the eighth, the groove for the rope is turned round the circ.u.mference of the sheave, and its sides polished. In the ninth, the iron pins, on which the sheaves revolve, are cast, turned, and polished; and on their being inserted, the block is complete and ready for use.

[Ill.u.s.tration: VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM, PORTSMOUTH.]

PORTSMOUTH.

VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM.

The correctness of this view will be immediately recognised by every person in the least acquainted with Portsmouth. The platform, from which it is taken, forms the grand promenade of the inhabitants, and is usually the first place visited by strangers, on account of the prospect which is thence obtained. Immediately in front of the engraving is seen the northern extremity of the platform, on which are two soldiers, who seem indulging themselves with a leisurely inhalation of the fresh breeze from the water, after having liberally expended a portion of their own breath in sounding their bugles at parade. Beyond the platform, the most conspicuous object is the Government Semaph.o.r.e, with three flags displayed as a signal; and to the left, the landing-place called the King's Stairs. Beyond the old round tower is seen the flag-ship of the Port Admiral; and, between her and the gun-brig which is running in, a distant view is obtained of the Town Hall of Gosport.

Portsmouth, one of our greatest naval depots, is situated near the south-western extremity of the island of Portsea, in the county of Hampshire, and is about seventy miles S.S.W. of London. Adjoining to it, on the northward, is the town of Portsea; and to the south-east, without the walls, lies the suburb of Southsea. The three places may be considered as forming one large town, under the general name of Portsmouth, the aggregate population of which is about 50,000. The population of Gosport, which lies to the westward of Portsmouth, on the opposite side of the harbour, is, with that of the adjacent hamlet of Stoke, about 12,000. The docks and naval storehouses are within the precinct of Portsea; the hospital and the victualling establishment are at Gosport; and the offices of the Port Admiral and the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor are at Portsmouth, within the lines of which are also the barracks for the accommodation of the garrison. Portsmouth is strongly fortified by a circuit of bastions and a moat, which enclose the town on the landside, and which are connected with a similar line, extending in a semi-circular form round the landside of Portsea. In the event of a siege, it would require 14,000 men to form an efficient garrison for the united towns. The situation of Portsmouth is low and marshy; and the peculiar smell which arises from the mud at low water, and from the moat, may be perceived at the distance of two or three miles, in approaching the town from the northward.

The princ.i.p.al church at Portsmouth stands in St. Thomas'-street, and nearly in the centre of the town. It is dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, and was erected between 1210 and 1220, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester. The transept and the chancel are the only parts which remain of the original structure, the nave and side-aisles having been rebuilt in 1692. At the same time the old tower, which formerly stood above the intersection of the transepts and the nave, was taken down, and the present one erected at the western entrance. It is surmounted with a cupola, and its height is about 120 feet.

With the exception of the older parts of St. Thomas' Church, which afford one or two good specimens of the Gothic style, Portsmouth contains but little in the shape of architectural antiquities that is likely to attract the notice of the stranger. The building, above which the Semaph.o.r.e is erected, near the northern extremity of the saluting platform, was, in former times, the residence of the governor of the town. Previous to the suppression of the monasteries and religious houses, it belonged to a Domus Dei, or hospital, which was founded in 1238. A part of the church of this hospital is yet standing at a short distance to the south-east of the Semaph.o.r.e, and near to the grand parade. It is now the garrison chapel; and against its walls are placed numerous monuments erected to the memory of officers, both naval and military, who have died in the service of their country.

"A tomb is theirs on every page, An epitaph on every tongue; The present hour, the future age, For them bewail, to them belong.

For them the voice of festal mirth Grows hushed,--their name the only sound; While deep remembrance pours to worth The goblet's tributary round.

A theme to crowds who knew them not, Lamented by admiring foes; Who would not share their glorious lot!

Who would not die the death they chose!"[10]

[10] Lines by Lord Byron "On the Death of Sir Peter Parker."

[Ill.u.s.tration: GOSPORT, FLAG SHIP SALUTING.]