The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 6

I found him all alone in the Room, standing and leaning against a Table, upon which were two Wax Candles; After I had made my Obeisance to him, he cover'd himself, and bad me be cover'd too: I intreated him to humour the profound Respect I had for his Highness so far as to let me remain uncover'd; but then he took off his Hat, and press'd me to put on mine, which I did as soon as he was cover'd, in conformity to this grand Maxim, That 'tis the Duty of private Men to keep in the Posture which Princes require of them: But I will own frankly, that it gave me some Uneasiness to speak with my Hat upon my Head to a Prince of the Great Duke's Age and Dignity. His Highness, before he enter'd into Conversation with me, ask'd me whether I spoke _Italian_? I told him that I could talk it a little, but that I did not think I understood enough of it to undertake to speak it in the Presence of so great a Prince as he: To this he made Answer, _And I can speak some broken French_. Nevertheless, he did me the Honour to talk with me a good while in that Language, with abundance of Good-nature. Next Day I got myself introduc'd to the Great Prince by Mr.

_Tyrrel_, a Gentleman of his Bedchamber. The Prince receiv'd me very kindly, said he remember'd that he had seen _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, my Cousin, attending the late Queen at _Berlin_, and that he was at my Mother's House while he stay'd in _Germany_; and he offer'd me his Protection upon all Occasions whenever I wanted it. This Prince was married to a Princess of _Saxe-Lawenbourg_, Dowager of the Prince _Palatine_ of _Newbourg_, who was the Elector _Palatine_'s Brother.

The Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. who died in 1723, married _Margaret Louisa_ of _Orleans_, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother of _Lewis_ XIII. by whom he had two Sons and a Daughter. The eldest Son, whose Name was _Ferdinand de Medicis_, died at _Florence_, _October_ 30, 1713. without any Issue by his Wife, who was _Violante Beatrix_ of _Bavaria_. The second, now the Great Duke, is _John Gaston de Medicis_[18]. The Princess, his Sister, is _Anna-Maria-Louisa_ of _Florence_[19], who married the Elector _Palatine, John William_ of _Newbourg_; and after that Prince's Death retir'd to the Dominions of the Great Duke, in which she usually resides.

The Palace of the Great Duke is the most stately Building that one can see. All the Relations of Travellers give very large Descriptions of it, but they may be all said to come far short of the real State of it. The Gallery especially is a matchless Piece: 'Tis about 400 Feet long, and has a Row of antique Statues and Busts on each Side. This Gallery leads into several Rooms, which are all full of the greatest Curiosities one would wish to see. In one there are the Pictures of all the famous Painters done by themselves: The second is adorn'd with Porcellane of all Sorts: There is a Table too of great Beauty, inlaid with precious Stones. The other Rooms contain Pictures, Antiquities, and wonderful fine Cabinets of inlaid Work: I was particularly surpriz'd at a couple of Pictures in Wax in one of these Rooms, which are both fine Rarities; but the Artist could not have chose a more melancholy Subject; for the one represents a Church-yard, and the other a City infected with a Plague. There is no looking upon these two Pictures without being struck at the same time with Admiration and Horror.

There is a Piece that makes Part of the Gallery which is worthy of a nice Observation: 'Tis an Octagon Saloon pav'd with Marble of various Colours: The Walls are hung with Crimson Velvet; and the Ceiling of the Dome is lin'd with Mother of Pearl, which makes a very fine Effect. But among all the Rarities which this stately Saloon contains, nothing is comparable to the Great Duke's famous Diamond: I saw the Model of it, which is all that they now shew of it; the present King of _Denmark_ being the last Person to whom the late Great Duke shew'd it in 1769, which creates a Suspicion that this Diamond is not new at _Florence_: Many People a.s.sur'd me it was sold, and that the Grand Signior was the Purchaser of it. Be it where it will, the Weight of this Diamond was 139 Carats and a half.

After having stay'd some time at _Florence_, I set out for _Rome_, taking SIENNA in my Way, which is an Archiepiscopal City that makes a Part of _Tuscany_. The Cathedral Church is built all of black and white Marble.

From _Sienna_ I went to MONTEFIASCONE, a City and Bishop.r.i.c.k in the Patrimony of St. _Peter_. My Design was to have gone through this Town without stopping, but the bad Weather oblig'd me to stay at the Post-house: There was such a deep Snow, and at the same time the Wind was so high, and the Cold so terrible, that the Inhabitants told me, that in the Memory of Man they had not known it so violent. I made no great Scruple to believe them, especially after what happen'd to me at the Post-house. The Master of the House carry'd me up Stairs into a great Room, where I found two Gentlemen, the one an _Italian_, the other a _German_, who were both come from _Rome_, and obliged, as I was, by the bad Weather to stay at _Montefiascone_. As we were talking together by the Fire-side, I observ'd a very odd Motion as if we had been rock'd. As I had never felt an Earthquake, I concluded this to be one; but the _Italian_ told me the Motion was too regular, and that, to be sure, it proceeded from some other Cause: And in a very few Moments we were convinc'd that it was the Wind which shook us in this Manner. As we had Reason to fear that the House would tumble upon our Heads, we desir'd our Landlord to put us in some Place where our Lives would not be in so much Danger. The Man laugh'd to see us so affrighted, and to encourage us he said that his House had totter'd as much for these 30 Years past, without receiving any Damage, and that therefore it was like to stand a good while longer: But this was not Reason sufficient to satisfy me of the Stability of his House; on the contrary, thought I, an Earthquake which had happen'd to a House off and on for a matter of 30 Years, must, ere long, bring it to the Ground: And besides, as I had always met with bad Fortune, it was but prudent not to expose myself in Harm's Way; I resolv'd therefore to go down Stairs, the two Gentlemen in my Company did the same, and our Landlord carry'd us to an opposite House, where really we were in a worse Pickle than before. The Fire was no sooner kindled, but we had like to have been suffocated with the Smoak; and we were fain to set open every Window and Door, to let in Air; but the Violence of the Wind was such that we could bear the Room no longer, and we were oblig'd to shift our Quarters again. We went into the Town, in Hopes of faring better there; but 'twas our Lot to fall into one of the most detestable Victualling-Houses in the World; yet we resolv'd to stay there, because there fortunately happen'd to be a Chimney that did not smoak; but while we were thinking we should have some Amends for the Cold we had suffer'd in these Removes, as if it had been decreed that we should have one thing or another to plague us all Day long, this very Chimney took Fire, which alarming the Town, every body flock'd to the Place, and by good Luck the Fire was soon extinguish'd; nevertheless, the Mob join'd in a Halloo against us, as if we had been the Incendiaries, so that I expected every Moment we should be sent to Gaol, till we scatter'd our Money, and then our Fears vanish'd; but the Consequence of all this Noise was, that we were forbid to have a Fire in our Chamber, so that we were forc'd to put up with that which was made in one of the nastiest Kitchens that could be.

From _Montefiascone_ I went in a Day and half to ROME[20], to which City all the Way from _Florence_ is over Hills and Mountains: The Roads belonging to the Dominions of _Tuscany_ are kept in good Order, and Care has been taken to render them as pa.s.sable as the Nature of them will permit, by levelling Hills, and making n.o.ble Causeys; but as soon as one enters the Ecclesiastical State, the Ways are so terribly bad, that 'tis a hard Matter to get through them. I stopp'd my Chaise about a League from _Rome_ upon an Eminence, from whence is a Descent to _Ponte-Mole_. There I cast my Eyes over that great City, and had a Fore-Taste of the Pleasure I should have, when I came to take my Progress thro' its several Quarters.

After having satisfy'd this first Curiosity, I proceeded on my Journey: I pa.s.s'd the _Tyber_ over the _Ponte-Mole_, and struck into a pav'd Road, which carry'd me for a long time between Gardens and Pleasure-houses, till I came to the famous City of _Rome_. I enter'd it thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, which led me into a triangular Square of the same Name, consisting of Two Rows of very sorry Houses, and of a Third, which is somewhat better. Here are Two broad Streets, which open in Form of a Goose's Foot, and are separated from one another by Two fine Churches of equal Architecture. In the midst of this Square is the famous Obelisk erected by _Sixtus_ V.

From this Square I went to the Custom-house, where I had my Baggage search'd. There's a magnificent Front to this Custom-house, which is a stately Portico, supported by large Pillars of Oriental Granite. As soon as the Searchers had done rummaging all my Things, I went on to the _Hotel_ of _Monte d'Or_ on the Square of _Spain_, which is but an indifferent Place, being a long and very irregular Square encompa.s.s'd with a Parcel of ill-contriv'd Houses, and a Fountain at one End, which serves for a Watering Place.

Next Day after my Arrival, my Curiosity carry'd me to visit _St. Peter_'s Church: The first thing I saw in my Way, going from my Lodgings, was the Bridge of _St. Angelo_ upon the _Tyber_, which fronts the Castle of the same Name: This Bridge is of a fine Breadth, with Marble Banisters on each Side, on which, at proper Distances, are Angels of Marble, of wonderful Workmanship. The Castle of _St. Angelo_ is, as I have said, over-against the Bridge: This is a great Tower, encompa.s.s'd with Bastions, which serves as a Citadel to the City of _Rome_, and a Place of Retreat to the Pope in a time of War or Rebellion; it communicates by a long Gallery with the _Vatican_ Palace: As we go off of the Bridge of _St. Angelo_, we pa.s.s for some time on the Banks of the _Tyber_, over a Key that is on the left Hand. From thence we go thro' several Streets to the famous Square of _St.

Peter_'s Church, which may be term'd the chief Square in the Universe. It was design'd by the celebrated _Bernini_, and executed in the manner as it now appears to us by Pope _Alexander_ VII. 'Tis an Oval, encompa.s.s'd with a great Gallery, supported by 324 Pillars of Free-Stone; the Top is adorn'd with a Bal.u.s.trade, on which, at proper s.p.a.ces, are the Statues of the Twelve Apostles and other Saints, and the Arms of Pope _Alexander_ VII. In this Square we see the famous Obelisk, which was rais'd by Order of _Sixtus_ V. in 1586, in the middle between Two n.o.ble Fountains. The Gallery, that runs round _St. Peter_'s Square, leads on both Sides to the Portico of the Church, which is a Piece of Work that one can never be weary of admiring. For whether we consider the Materials, or the Skill of the Architect by whom it was conducted, they are equally surprizing. The Pavement of the Portico is of Marble, and the Ceiling of Stucco gilt: It leads on the Right Hand to the grand Stair-case of the _Vatican_, and there's a cover'd Gallery over it, where the Pope appears upon _Holy-Thursday_ and _Easter-Day_ to anathematize Heretics, Schismatics and Infidels; and also to bless the People, who at that time are all kneeling in the Square, and in the Streets which lead to it. The princ.i.p.al Entrance of the Portico is answerable to the great Gate of the Church, which is of Bra.s.s, and on one Side of it is that call'd _la Porta Santa_, or the Holy Gate, that is never open'd except on the grand Jubilees, which are only once in 25 Years.

But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will, 'tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver, Bra.s.s, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Pieces of the most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.

The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very s.p.a.cious and lofty Dome in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted in _Mosaic_.

Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel'd for its Magnificence: 'Tis rais'd some Steps from the Ground, and stands by itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the sacred College, that can say Ma.s.s at it: Four wreathed Columns of Bra.s.s, with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion, which is intirely of Bra.s.s: 'Tis adorn'd with _Ba.s.so-Relievo_'s, and especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of Pope _Urban_ VIII. of the _Barberini_ Family, who caus'd this n.o.ble Pavilion to be erected. Over each Pillar is an Angel of Bra.s.s gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under the Altar is the Tomb of the Apostles _St. Peter_ and _St. Paul_, to which is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The whole is adorn'd with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the Workmanship of which even surpa.s.ses the Beauty of the Materials. These Steps are encompa.s.s'd with Banisters of Bra.s.s, on which a great Number of Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except on _Good Friday_.

_St. Peter_'s Chair is over-against the great Altar; 'tis all of Bra.s.s, and very high; 'tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose Colossal Statues are of Bra.s.s gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Bra.s.s, which reaches to the Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes.

I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of the _Italian_ Cities, and especially _Rome_, offer to the Eyes of the curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred Travellers have already describ'd at large; I therefore silently pa.s.s over several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading of several Travels to _Italy_: I will only tell you by the way, that I was astonish'd at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famous _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and turn'd Catholic, at last fix'd her Residence at _Rome_, where she dy'd.

This Princess was interr'd in _St. Peter_'s Church, where a magnificent Tomb of Marble and Bra.s.s was erected for her; and there's her Picture in a Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess's Tomb, is that of the famous Countess _Matilda_, whose Memory ought to be very dear to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which the Church ever had.

Besides the Inside and Outside of _St. Peter_'s Church, there are Places under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there lin'd with Marble, whose Altars are adorn'd with _Mosaic_ Paintings, to fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome, which supports its Cross: From hence there's a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles.

I went from _St. Peter_'s Church to see the _Vatican_ Palace, which joins to it: This was formerly the Pope's common Residence, but for some time past they have given the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_ the Preference to it, that being said to be in a much healthier Air. The _Vatican_ is a very irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must be a great Number of Apartments. 'Tis accompany'd with a Garden, at the End of which is a House call'd _Belvedere_, because of the fine Prospect there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope's Apartments are very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn'd with a broad Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter'd into a great Apartment, which was heretofore richly furnish'd for the Reception of _Philip_ V. King of Spain, at the time when he was in _Italy_, and expected at _Rome_.

The famous _Vatican_ Library is also worth the Traveller's View, being full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much augmented by the _Heidelberg_ Library, and that of the Duke of _Urbino_.

After having satisfy'd my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I thought of making some Visits: I went to the Marquis _C----_, and to the Duke _S----_, for whom I had Letters given me at _Florence_. Those Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer'd to shew me the Curiosities at _Rome_, and to introduce me to the a.s.semblies. In Fact the Marquis _C----_ carry'd me the very same Day to _Madame de B----_, where I found a very fine a.s.sembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especially _Abbes_, smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicest _Pet.i.t-Maitres_ in the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress'd, and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to engross them so, that there seem'd to be no Possibility of coming near them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play.

There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me to be _Monsieur l' Abbe_. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that introduc'd me, with whom I talk'd now-and-then, I should have made a very queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the a.s.sembly broke up, and was very glad when I got out.

Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me the greatest Curiosities at _Rome_: He carry'd me first to the most considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was the _Trajan_ Square, in the middle whereof stands the famous _Trajan_ Pillar, so call'd from the Emperor _Trajan_, who began it, tho' 'twas not finish'd till after his Death: 'Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of Marble, and represents _Trajan_'s princ.i.p.al Actions in _Ba.s.so-Relievo_.

This Column was rais'd higher by Pope _Sixtus_ V. who had _St. Peter_'s Statue plac'd on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say contain'd the Ashes of the Emperor _Trajan_.

My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the Place _Navona_, which forms a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches.

We went to see the Church of _St. John de Lateran_, which may be deem'd the Mother and Chief of all the Churches in _Christendom_: It owes its Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus'd it to be built with extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: 'Tis not indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture as _St. Peter_'s Church, but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height and Circ.u.mference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome, which, 'tis said, was _Constantine_'s Baptistery, but this last Article is not absolutely certain.

From this Church I went to the _Scala-Santa_, which is a Building of Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico's form the princ.i.p.al Front; that in the middle leads to the _Scala-Santa_, or Holy Stair-case; so call'd because 'tis said the Steps of it are the same that form'd the Stair-case of _Pilate_'s Palace, by which our Lord descended, after he was scourg'd. Every body goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels.

'Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call'd the _Sancta-Sanctorum_. On one Side of this _Scala-Santa_ there are Two little Stair-cases, for those that don't care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform'd this Act of Devotion.

When I had seen the _Scala-Santa_, my Guide conducted me to the _Coliseum_, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, that _Vespasian_ began this superb Structure, and that his Son _t.i.tus_ finish'd it, and entertain'd the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of the _Coliseum_ is an Oval, encompa.s.s'd with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to the Opinion of some Authors, contain'd above 85,000 Spectators: 'Tis great Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv'd. _Urban_ VIII. of the _Barberini_ Family, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of the _Coliseum_, and to build therewith the _Barberini_ Palace. The little that remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that 'tis very probable, the next Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the Prints that we have of it.

The _Pantheon_, or our Lady _de la Rotonda_, is the only ancient Edifice that has been preserv'd: 'Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to the Top of the Dome 'tis 144 Feet: _Agrippa_, the Favourite and Son-in-Law of the Emperor _Augustus_, caus'd this Temple to be built in Honour of all the Heathen G.o.ds; and 'tis now a Church, dedicated to _All the Saints_.

The only Light it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof, which, tho' somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was formerly cover'd with Bra.s.s, but _Urban_ VIII. caus'd it to be taken off, and employ'd in the building of the High Altar of _St. Peter_'s Church; which occasion'd his Enemies to say, _That the_ Barberini _had done, what the_ Barbarians _durst not attempt_.

At my Return from this Ramble I found at my Lodgings the Duke _de S----_, who came to carry me to the a.s.sembly at _Madame de S----_. The Company there was not very numerous, nor did I find it any more diverting than that to which I was introduc'd before: There were few Ladies, and scarce any Gentlemen of the Sword, but Abbes in Abundance: I plainly perceiv'd, that the a.s.semblies at _Rome_ were not the most entertaining to a Foreigner, and therefore I resolv'd, which I think was much better, to employ myself in viewing the various Curiosities of the City. I went to the Capitol, being every where accompany'd by my trusty Antiquarian: 'Tis a Building compos'd of Three distinct Apartments, detach'd from one another; Two of which form the advanc'd Wings, and all Three are built of Free-Stone: They stand upon a Hill, to which is an Ascent by a great Marble Stair-case: The Court before this Building is a s.p.a.cious Oval, to which is a Descent by Three Steps of Marble: In the middle is the Equestrian Statue of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius_, a n.o.ble Remnant of Antiquity.

From the Capitol I went to the Pope's Palace, call'd _Monte-Cavallo_, from the Name of the Hill on which it stands. This of all the Palaces of _Rome_ is one that enjoys the finest Prospect, and the best Air: It was built by Order of Pope _Paul_ V. The Gardens which belong to it are large, but not so beautiful, as to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Palace. After having sufficiently view'd it, I return'd to my Quarters, where I had appointed the Marquis _de A----_ to come and go along with me to the Cardinal _Corsini_. His Eminency, who had an a.s.sembly at is House every Night, gave me a very kind Reception, and I found a numerous Company there, which was much more to my Satisfaction than the Two a.s.semblies I had been at before. The Cardinal did the Honours of his House perfectly well, and took Care that every body should have a Part, either at Play, or in Conversation. I paid my Court to him constantly, and did not fail to be at his a.s.sembly every Night, till I left the City: The rest of the Time I spent in rambling thro' the several Quarters of _Rome_, to see what was most remarkable.

After having made this Progress thro' the Inside of the City, I had a Mind also to view the Out-parts: I was conducted to the famous Vineyards of the _Pamphili_ and _Borghese_ Families, which the _Italians_ prefer before all the Gardens in _Europe_; wherein I am not quite of their Opinion. The Statues in these Vineyards are, to my Mind, not to be parallel'd of the Sort, but, as to the Agriculture or Waters, the Gardens of _France_ outstrip them by far. At the Entrance of the _Borghese_ Vineyard is a large Portico of Marble, which fronts a Walk, at the End whereof is a very large Square, encompa.s.s'd with a Marble Bal.u.s.trade, adorn'd with Statues of the same. This Square serves as a Court to the House, which is not very large, but contains immense Wealth in Statues and Paintings. The Outside is fac'd with _Ba.s.so-Relievo's_ of Marble, amongst which the Statue of _Quintus Curtius_ on Horseback, casting himself headlong into the Gulph, is especially to be admir'd.

The _Pamphili_'s Vineyard is in my Opinion the finest Place in the Suburbs of _Rome_. The Gardens have an Air of Grandeur and Proportion, which I have not observ'd any where else. The Outside and Inside of the House are lin'd alike with _Ba.s.so-Relievo_'s of Marble of admirable Workmanship.

There are also n.o.ble Statues, but most of 'em a little damag'd, by reason of the various Fits of Devotion and Lukewarmness of a Prince _Pamphili_, who did these Statues irreparable Injury: For this Prince, in the first hot Fits of his Devotion, caus'd the Nudities of the Statues of this Garden to be plaister'd over; but when that Zeal was abated, he had a Mind to see his Statues again in their former Condition, which being not possible to be done without breaking off the Plaister with the Strokes of a Hammer; the Workman, for Want of due Care, gave some by which several of those Statues were considerably damaged.

All the various Curiosities took up a great deal of my Time, as well as the famous _Borghese_ and _Farnese_ Palaces, those of _Colonna_, _Palavicini_, _Barberini_, and others, the Description of which I omit.

After having thus satisfy'd myself, I thought of being introduced to the Pope, and for that Purpose apply'd to the Cardinal _del Giudice_, to whom I had Letters of Recommendation, as I had to the Cardinals _Gualtieri_ and _Ottoboni_. I had the Honour to have favourable Audiences of all their three Eminencies. As I was a _German_, I paid my first Visit to the Cardinal _del Giudice_, who at that Time had the Care of the Emperor's Affairs. After a short Stay in his Antichamber, I was Introduc'd to an Audience of him by one of his Gentlemen. This Prelate was not well that Day, and I found him in his Night-Gown, lying on a Couch-Bed; but as soon as he saw me enter, he rose and advanc'd to receive me; after which he sat down again, and made me take an Arm-Chair over-against him. When the Audience was over, he got up, and conducted me to the very Door of his Chamber, where I found his Eminency's Gentlemen, two of whom waited on me to the Head of the Stairs, and another went down with me, and attended me to my Coach.

Cardinal _Gualtieri_ receiv'd me also in a most obliging Manner. He gave me Audience in his Closet, where, after the first Greeting, he sat down in an Arm-Chair, made me do the like, and oblig'd me to be cover'd: I was very loth to take that Liberty, but he would be obey'd; and in this Situation I stay'd an Hour at least. I was charm'd with the Behaviour of this Prelate, who of all the Cardinals took the least State upon him. The Tokens he gave me of his Kindness, made me attach myself to him; and I was very a.s.siduous in my Attendance upon him all the Time that I stay'd at _Rome_. He sent one of his Gentlemen with me to the Cardinal _Ottoboni_, Protector of the Affairs of _France_, whom I found in his Closet standing, and in that Posture he remain'd all the Time of my Visit. When I withdrew, I was attended in the same Manner as I had been at the House of the Cardinal _del Giudice_.

After I had made a Visit to these three Cardinals, the Cardinal _del Giudice_ introduced me to the Pope, who was at that Time _Clement_ XI. of the _Albani_ Family. The Cardinal had an Audience of his Holiness by himself first, and then he introduc'd me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc'd to the Middle of the Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to me _Aventi, Aventi_, i.e. Come forwards. I obey'd till I came to his Feet, when I fell on my Knees and kiss'd an embroider'd Cross which was on his Holiness's Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask'd me several Questions relating to my Conversion, and seem'd so overjoy'd at the Grace G.o.d had given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask'd me News about the Sate of Religion in _Germany_, and highly extoll'd the Zeal which the Elector _Palatine_ manifested for the Catholic Religion. He concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss'd me, he made me a Present of several _Agnis Dei's_, two little Medals, one of Gold the other of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent.

I stay'd at _Rome_ till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out on _Wednesday_ in the Holy Week from _Monte Cavallo_ for the _Vatican_ Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and Officers of his Holiness's Houshold went first, who were all on Horseback in wide Ca.s.socks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my Opinion, long Gowns and flapp'd Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse richly accouter'd, the same which was for his Holiness's Riding; but on that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the Pope's Chair march'd two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, and the Light-Horse clos'd the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the _Vatican_ Palace.

The next Day, which was Holy _Thursday_, I desir'd Cardinal _Gualtieri_ to get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv'd at the Church, the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I observ'd, sat upon Stools. The Constable _Colonna_ stood near the Pope, with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Ma.s.s was ended, the holy Father descended from his Throne, and plac'd himself in a Chair of State which was of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope's Livery rais'd the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry'd it in that Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of _St. Peter_'s Church.

The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who walk'd two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the Hundred _Swiss_. All _St. Peter_'s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were full of People: His Holiness's Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear'd, there was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order'd a Cardinal to read the Bull of Excommunication and _Anathema_, against Heretics, Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry'd him lifted him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice p.r.o.nounc'd the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis'd would repent and do public Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were present, and to the whole City of _Rome_ in general, by turning himself about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the Cannon of the Castle of _St. Angelo_ were fir'd, and all the Bells of the City were rung, which was accompany'd with the Sound of the Trumpets, Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted in _St.

Peter_'s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry'd back into his Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore during the whole Ceremony, was taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy Sacrament and carry'd it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope retir'd to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being plac'd all in a Row, dress'd in long White Robes, his Holiness wash'd their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow'd by those Thirteen Priests, went into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the Priests sat down, and were serv'd by the Pope and the Cardinals. The Chevalier _de St. George_ and his Princess were present at this Ceremony, with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them, he said, _I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands_: at the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.

When the Pope was retir'd, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred College a.s.sisted at the _Miserere_, which was sung in the great Chapel with Instrumental Music.

Upon _Easter-Day_ the Pope was present at High-Ma.s.s, with all the Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress'd in his Pontificalibus and the Tiara on his Head, was carry'd in the same Manner as upon Holy _Thursday_, to the Gallery which fronts _St. Peter_'s Square, where the Soldiers were drawn up in Batallia, and the People on their Knees to receive the Pope's Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge of all the Artillery from the Castle of _St. Angelo_: Then the Pope retir'd to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I observ'd, that the Churches were always so throng'd, that the People were ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that the _Italians_ frequent the Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the excellent Music that is perform'd in them, than from any Motive of Religion.

Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post from _Rome_ with several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the famous City of NAPLES. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin, which the Town encompa.s.ses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover'd with Vineyards and delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be imagin'd. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle of _St. Elmo_, built by _Charles_ V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.

_Naples_ is the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is dedicated to _St. Januarius_; and in this Church is preserv'd the Head of that Saint, and some Drops of his Blood in a Gla.s.s Phyal. We are a.s.sur'd, that every Year, upon that Saint's Festival, the very Instant that they put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens'd, turns Liquid. All the People of _Naples_ are Eye-Witnesses of this Miracle, and seem, in my Mind, to have a great Devotion for the Saint. Of this we may easily judge by the Magnificence of his Church, which shines throughout with Gold, Silver, Marble, _&c._ and 'tis moreover adorn'd with very beautiful Paintings.

The Viceroy's Palace is one of the n.o.blest Structures in the World: The Beauty of the Architecture and the Disposition of the Apartments give the same Pleasure to the Spectator, as the magnificent Prospect the Viceroy has from a Balcony that ranges before the Windows, to which I never saw any thing equal for its Extent, or its agreeable Variety. The fine Gardens, the Harbour, the a.r.s.enal, the lofty Hills, the terrible Mount _Vesuvius_, in short, the whole City of _Naples_, all, _Madame_, contribute to the Prospect from the Viceroy's Palace. The Person who then enjoy'd that Dignity was the Cardinal _Schrotenbach_, not much belov'd by the _Neapolitans_, who shew'd a very public Concern for the Loss of the Count _de Gallas_ his Predecessor. I question whether the Hatred they bore to this new Viceroy was well grounded, for several People own'd to me ingenuously, that he did every thing in his Power to make them happy. His Court perhaps, which was too melancholy, and not much frequented, did not please the _Neapolitans_, who love Grandeur. Besides, the Cardinal seldom appeared in public, whereas these People love to see their Viceroy often, and are fond to see him in Procession, with all the Pomp befitting a n.o.bleman, vested with a Dignity which they look upon as superior to any other whatsoever; for it must be observ'd, that a _Neapolitan_ thinks nothing comparable to the Vice-royalty of _Naples_. And to shew what a grand Idea they have of this Dignity, they tell a Story, That a _Neapolitan_ Lady, at an Audience she had of the King of _Spain_, wish'd, in order to complete his Happiness, that it would please G.o.d to make him one Day Viceroy of _Naples_.

I found in this City the Prince _T----_, whom I knew at _Vienna_. This n.o.bleman offer'd to introduce me to several a.s.semblies, with which he a.s.sur'd me I should not be displeas'd. I was glad to accept of his Offer, upon his a.s.surance that they consisted of quite other Sort of People than the a.s.semblies at _Rome_. I there made an Acquaintance with several _Neapolitan_ Gentlemen, who were as civil to me as could be, and were so complaisant, as to carry me to those Parts of the City which were most remarkable. I was charm'd with the n.o.ble Walk, form'd by the _Cours_, along by the Sea-side, where I met with a great Number of Coaches, which seem'd to me to have more of the _French_ Air than those of _Rome_, bating only, that they were all drawn by Mules, or very sorry Horses. After I had taken a Walk, I was invited to make one of a Party at Supper, where I was promis'd good Chear and good Company; which I freely accepted, and had the Pleasure of seeing the Performance as good as the Promise. The Entertainment was most delicate, and very amiable Ladies were also of the Party: I should have had an intire Pleasure in conversing with them; but, for Want of understanding _Italian_, I could only talk by Signs, a Method of Conversation very troublesome for Persons that would have desir'd nothing better than to hold a Discourse. After Supper they propos'd a Match at Pharao; the Prince _T----_ offer'd to cut the Cards, and had such a Run of bad Luck, that in a little time I saw him lose considerable Sums. I won to my Share 260 Pistoles, which that Gentleman sent me next Day, together with a great Basket of green Peas, and good Store of Fruit.

While I stay'd at _Naples_, I could not help going to see the famous Mount _Vesuvius_, of which I had heard so much Talk; but when I found myself at the Top of this dreadful Mountain, I repented of my Labour, for I imagin'd I should have been requited for the Pains I took, by the Sight of something marvellous, when I came to the Top; but so far from it, that I saw nothing but Smoak issuing from several very great Cavities, which it would not have been prudent to approach; and indeed I had no manner of Temptation to it, so that I return'd but little wiser than I went: What I remark'd in particular was, that as I struck my Foot against the Ground, I heard a Noise, very much like the Sound of an empty Cask; and that's all I am able to tell you of Mount _Vesuvius_. As to the Form of this Mountain, it would be in vain to describe it, because it changes its Shape every time it throws out Fire. I found it much more painful to descend the Mount than I did to ascend it, for the Abundance of bak'd Clods, calcin'd Stones, sulphurous Matter, and the Heaps of Ashes, made the Descent so difficult, that when I came to the Bottom, I found myself so fatigued, that I could scarce remount my Horse: I perceiv'd that the soft Boots I wore, were intirely burnt, undoubtedly by the Sulphur and Lime, of which the Mountain is intirely compos'd. I was then told, that it had not cast out any Flames for a long time, but that this would infallibly happen very soon, because new Holes were discover'd in it, and that the Earth, which visibly broke away, began to sink. I thought such a Mountain was a very bad Neighbour to so considerable a City as _Naples_; yet the _Neapolitans_ don't seem to be much terrify'd at it. Indeed when the Flames actually break out, they are not the same Men; they then flock in Crouds to the Churches, every body falls to Prayer, and they make public Promises to change their Lives; but no sooner do they think all the Danger to be over, than they relapse into the same Degree of Debauchery as ever: In which they resemble those Wits, who, when they are in perfect Health, seem to set Death at Defiance; but when they feel its Approaches, discover such faint Hearts as give the Lye to their pretended Heroism.

Next Day I went to see the great _Carthusian_ Church of _St. Martin_, which is most happily situated: The Church and Convent are Two stately Structures, which contain immense Wealth: The Treasury and Sacristy are full of n.o.ble Ornaments, Vessels of Gold and Silver, richly wrought and adorn'd for most part with precious Stones; and the Friars have very convenient Lodgings, every one having a Chamber, a Closet, a Library, and a little Garden to himself.