The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 5

_Avignon_ is in general a very well built City, the Streets being broad, strait and lightsome. The adjacent Country is charming and very fruitful, and I thought there was nothing wanting in it but a greater Number of Inhabitants.

I took Post at _Avignon_, and went to AIX, which is the Capital of _Provence_, and an Archbishop's See; there are also a Parliament and an University: This is without Dispute one of the finest Towns in the Kingdom: I was charm'd with the Beauty of the _Course_, which is the Rendezvous of People in the Summer Evenings: 'Tis in the middle of a fine s.p.a.cious Street, the Houses whereof are truly magnificent, and several beautiful Rows of Trees adorn'd with Fountains make it a very pleasant Walk. The middle Row, which is separated from the rest by a Rail, is for the Foot Pa.s.sengers. From one End of the Course there's a Prospect of the Country, and the other is limited by the City. At the End next to the Country there's a Fountain, and a Bal.u.s.trade of white Marble Breast-high.

There's another Course without the City, which is bigger than the former, and every whit as beautiful. The Metropolitan Church of _St. Saviour_ is remarkable for its Baptismal Font, which is a Piece of admirable Structure: 'Tis all of white Marble, supported by filetted Columns, that compa.s.s it in Form of a little Dome. This Church has a very high Tower, which is a _Hexagon_, and much esteem'd by good Judges.

The Palace where the Parliament a.s.sembles is a n.o.ble Building, in the Rooms whereof no Cost has been spar'd for Gilding, Painting and Carving.

The great Hall is adorn'd with Hangings of blue Velvet, sprinkled with _Fleurs de Lys_ of Gold: The King's Throne with the upper and lower Seats are cover'd with the like Tapistry: The Persons that compose the Parliament of _Aix_ are almost all Men of Quality, which contributes very much to make a Man's Residence here agreeable: The n.o.bility in this Place live with Distinction. Besides the Parties made for Gaming, and the Walks, there are Concerts of Music upon certain Days of the Week, to which Foreigners are admitted _Gratis_, the Musicians being paid by a certain Number of People of Quality, who hire them for the whole Season.

After Five or Six Days Stay at _Aix_, I set out for Ma.r.s.eILLES: This is an Episcopal City of _Provence_, which by being situate on the _Mediterranean_ is one of the most considerable Cities in _France_ for Commerce, and engrosses almost the whole Trade of the _Levant_. 'Tis divided into the upper and lower Towns: The former is the _Old Ma.r.s.eilles_, the Houses of which are very dark, and the Streets narrow and very irregular. In this Part stands the Cathedral of our Lady _la Major_.

The Lower Town is very fine, the Streets broad, most of 'em strait, and the Houses very magnificent, especially those by the Side of the _Course_, which is one of the finest in the World: 'Tis very much like that at _Aix_. This Part of _Ma.r.s.eilles_ owes its Embellishment and Aggrandizement to _Lewis_ XIV. who caus'd Works to be erected there worthy of so great a Prince. _Ma.r.s.eilles_ has a n.o.ble Harbour, it being a large Bason, almost encompa.s.s'd with Houses, and defended by Two Castles, of which that on the Right Hand is very high, and commands a great way at Sea: That on the Left contains the a.r.s.enal, which is one of the finest that I have seen, and every thing in it is so regularly dispos'd, that it forms a charming View.

The Harbour of _Ma.r.s.eilles_ is the Station for the King's Galleys, on board of which there's a great Number of Slaves, who do almost all the hard Work; they load and unload the Ships: Some of 'em are allow'd to walk about the Town and to trade, but are obliged to pay something to the Man that accompanies them, and to lie aboard at Night. Others, who are charg'd with enormous Crimes, are fasten'd Two, Three and Four together to great Chains, which does not hinder them however from working for their Livelihood. The great Trade of _Ma.r.s.eilles_ and the Wealth of its Inhabitants give this City an Air of Opulence, which is seldom to be found elsewhere: There is hardly a Place where one meets with better Chear, and where 'tis easier to be accommodated with every thing that a Gentleman can desire to pa.s.s his Time agreeably. Comedies, Concerts, Gaming, Taking the Air, in short, Pleasures of all Sorts make this a most charming Place to live in, even for People that are ever so opposite to one another in Characters and Temper.

The Suburbs of _Ma.r.s.eilles_ are magnificent: They contain above 20,000 little Houses, call'd by the Country-people _Bastides_, and all encompa.s.s'd with very fine Vineyards and Gardens, which render these Habitations very charming in the fine Weather. 'Twas to these Houses that most of the Inhabitants retir'd during the last Plague with which _Provence_ was afflicted, and which held so long as to carry off a great Part of the Citizens. This Desolation would have been much greater, and would perhaps have penetrated into the Heart of _France_, had it not been for the great Care taken by the Regent, that no Correspondence should be kept with the People of _Ma.r.s.eilles_.

_Provence_ in general is a fine Country, and a very pleasant Place to live in at all times, but especially in the Winter. At that time too the Sky is clearest, and there are then some Days, which naturally ought rather to be plac'd to the Account of Summer. I remember I was walking on the Harbour of _Ma.r.s.eilles_ one Day in this Season at 2 or 3 o'Clock in the Afternoon, and that I was forc'd to withdraw, the Weather was so hot. Yet I observ'd that not many Days after a Wind arose, (that the People of the Country call _Mistral_) which was extremely cold, and the more disagreeable to me, because 'tis not easy to get warm in this Country, here being no Wood but some Roots or Branches of Olive-trees, which do not make a very good Fire.

Besides, most of the Rooms, especially in the Inns, are without Chimneys, so that one is oblig'd to make Use of a Pan of Coals, which is very inconvenient, to such especially as are not us'd to this Method of warming themselves.

After having for a few Days saunter'd in and about _Ma.r.s.eilles_, I thought it proper to inquire what Ship was bound to _Sicily_; but with all my Inquiry, I could not find out any, and was under a Necessity of going either to _Genoa_ or _Leghorn_. I was a.s.sur'd that 'twas but a little way, and that I should be there in a very few Days, so that I agreed for my Pa.s.sage with a Merchant that was bound to _Leghorn_. The contrary Wind kept us a Fortnight in the Harbour, and then we sail'd; but were forc'd to put into _La Cienta_, a little Town and Port of _Provence_. There I stayed Three Days for a fair Wind, to proceed in my Voyage, and at last finding 'twas to no Purpose, I resolv'd to leave my Trunks and Servants aboard the Ship, and to go by Land.

The first Day I went and lay at TOULON a City of _Provence_, and one of the best Harbours in _Europe_. In this Harbour lie the King's Ships, and here is the great a.r.s.enal of the Admiralty of _France_, where _Lewis_ XIV.

caus'd Works to be made worthy of so great a Monarch. The Road of _Toulon_ is as considerable as the Harbour, and Ships ride there perfectly safe.

They say, 'tis large enough to contain all the Ships in the _Mediterranean_. The City of itself is but small, and were it not for the Sea-Officers, 'twould be a melancholy Place to live in. These Gentlemen have caused a House to be erected here, which serves for their a.s.semblies, it being composed of several Rooms very well adorn'd. Here are the Pictures of the Count _de Tholouse_ great Admiral, the Marshals _de Tesse_ and _de Etrees_, and several Generals and naval Officers; together with n.o.ble Sea-Charts. Here one is always sure to find Company enough, and that which is select. At Night they meet in these Rooms, where is all manner of Play: The Sea-Officers make the Entertainments, in which they acquit themselves with all possible Grace and Politeness; and a Foreigner is always so heartily welcome there, that they strive who shall treat him with most Civility.

You know, _Madame_, that the Allies attempted to make themselves Masters of _Toulon_, during the last War. The Duke of _Savoy_ came first before the Place, but was soon oblig'd to raise the Siege, for Want of being supported by the _English_ Fleet, which was kept back by contrary Winds.

Others impute the Raising of this Siege to the Menaces of _Charles_ XII.

of _Sweden_, who was at that time in _Saxony_, to declare for _France_, if the Duke of _Savoy_'s Army stay'd any longer before _Toulon_. Be this as it will, the Duke's Forces retir'd, after having lost some of their princ.i.p.al Officers, among others the brave Prince of _Saxe-Gotha_, Brother to the Reigning Duke, who was kill'd as he went to take a View of the Place.

From _Toulon_ I went to FREJUS, a Town upon the Sea; 'tis very ancient, and the Citizens pretend that most of its old Monuments were built by the _Romans_: Such are the Ruins of a Causey, that reach'd as far as _Arles_, near the Mouth of the _Rhone_, and the Remains of an ancient _Circus_, which seems to have been a very s.p.a.cious one. 'Tis said that a great Aqueduct in the Neighbourhood brought as much Water to it from the Distance of 10 Leagues, as was sufficient to support a Naval Combat within the Circ.u.mference of this _Circus_. Going out of _Frejus_ there's a long Mole or Causey cut by several small Ca.n.a.ls, over which there are Bridges, said to have been made by the _Romans_.

As I pursued my Journey, I pa.s.s'd near ANTIBES, a strong Place on the Sea-Sh.o.r.e, which was heretofore the See of a Bishop, till it was translated to _Gra.s.se_ in _Upper Provence_. From thence I cross'd the _Var_, which River separates _France_ from the Dominions of the King of _Sardinia_; and the Fourth Day after my Departure I arriv'd at _Nice_.

NICE was formerly very well fortify'd, and its Castle especially was reckon'd impregnable; for it bravely held out against the Army of _Francis_ I. and that of _Barbarossa_ the _Turk_ in 1543. But _Lewis_ XIV.

had better Success, for he made himself Master both of the City and of the Castle, which he caus'd to be intirely demolish'd; and having also caus'd the other Fortifications of the Town to be destroy'd, he restor'd it in this Condition to its Sovereign. At _Nice_ we begin to see Orange-trees in such Abundance, that they grow in the open Fields like other common Trees, and they bear Fruit alike both in Summer and Winter.

As 'twas very fine Weather when I arriv'd at _Nice_, I was advis'd to go on board, in order to avoid the bad Roads in the Pa.s.sage of the Mountains; I took the Advice, and went on board a small Vessel, that was navigated by only Two Men; but I soon repented of it, for in Half an Hour after we put off to Sea we had bad Weather, in which I had like to have been cast away, and 'twas not less than a Miracle that I arriv'd at VILLA-FRANCA, a small Sea-Port in the County of _Nice_.

This Town is remarkable for nothing but its Harbour, which contains Six of the King of _Sardinia_'s Galleys: 'Twas here that this Prince embark'd with his Queen and his whole Court, when he went to take Possession of _Sicily_: And after their Majesties had been consecrated and crown'd at _Palermo_, they came and landed at _Villa-Franca_ in their Return to _Turin_. The Night that I came to this Town there happen'd a terrible Storm, which abated indeed next Day, but the Sea was still in such a Foam, that I did not care to trust it. The Day following proving however as fair as one could desire, I immediately put to Sea, but fell into the same Danger as I had been expos'd to before. The Winds, or rather all the Devils in the Air, were let loose against me; I was, I confess to you, cruelly afraid, especially when I saw my Pilots change Countenance.

Nevertheless, I put on the Air of a Man of Courage, told 'em the Danger was not so great as they apprehended, and that they need not be discourag'd. In short, I don't remember every thing that I said to 'em, and perhaps too my Language was not so coherent as if I had been upon _Terra Firma_. Whatever it was, I arriv'd safe at MONACO, a little Town which belongs to a Prince of that Name. The Castle, which looks towards the Sea, is built in the _Italian_ Taste, but is a very plain Building.

There is a _French_ Garison in the Town, which is a Detachment from the Garison of _Antibes_. The Prince of _Monaco_, who is Sovereign of the Country, marry'd a Princess of _Lorrain_, by whom he only had Daughters.

He marry'd the Eldest of them, and the Heiress of all his Estate, to the Duke _de Valentinois_, Son to _M. de Matignon_.

From _Monaco_ I went to _St. Remo_, the first Town in the Dominions of _Genoa_, where I took a Boat, which carry'd me to SAVONA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, with the t.i.tle of a Bishop.r.i.c.k. This is one of the best Towns in the Republic, and without Dispute the safest Sea-Port in its Dominions. The _Genoese_ have caus'd a City to be built here with Two Fortresses, and several other Works, which render it a Place of very great Importance to the Republic.

I was so heartily out of Conceit with the Sea, that I hir'd Mules to carry me to _Genoa_, whither Two Thirds of the Road are scarce pa.s.sable, by reason of the continual Ascents and Descents, which are very fatiguing.

The only thing that made my Journey agreeable was, riding all along by the Sea-side, which being cover'd with Shipping, forms a very fine Prospect.

After one has travell'd some Leagues from _Genoa_, the Road becomes very good; for besides that the Way is very even, one sees a great many n.o.ble Houses, with Gardens in Form of Terrace-Walks, which compose one of the most stately Amphitheatres that can be seen, and so it is all the Way to _Genoa_.

GENOA is an Archbishop.r.i.c.k, the Capital of the State of _Genoa_, and the ordinary Residence of the Doge and Senate. 'Tis the finest and most magnificent City in _Italy_; 'tis not very long that this Republic has enjoy'd its Liberty, it being the famous _Andrew Doria_ who acquir'd it for his Country during the Reign of _Francis_ I. King of _France_, to whom _Genoa_ was subject. Since that time this City is very much increas'd: I enter'd it by the Gate adjoining to the Mole, which in my Opinion is the most proper Entrance, to give a Stranger at the first View a grand Idea of _Genoa_. I was amaz'd at the Magnificence of this Mole, and at the Beauty of the Harbour, which is surrounded with fine Houses, built in Form of an Amphitheatre. But nothing can compare with the Church of the _Annunciade_, where nought is to be seen but Gold, Marble, and the richest Paintings and Sculptures. At the very first Entrance one sees Two Rows of chamfer'd Pillars, of red vein'd Marble, lin'd with white Marble; the Capitals of the Columns are all over gilt, and they support a Dome, which is also gilt, and inrich'd with very fine Paintings. The Pavement is of Squares of Marble in Compartments. I don't undertake to give a farther Detail of the Beauties of this Church, the same having been already so exactly related by so many Travellers, that it would be only a Repet.i.tion of what has been said a hundred times over.

The Streets of _Genoa_ are, properly speaking, rather Galleries than Streets, there being nothing but Structures and Palaces of the utmost Magnificence, look which way one will. That which struck me most of all was the Palace of _Balbi_; I never saw any so regular, and with Fronts so conformable to the Rules of Architecture; but then it must be consider'd, 'tis in this grand Outside only that all the Magnificence of the Houses of _Genoa_ consists; for when you enter into one of the greatest and richest Palaces, there's not a Mortal to be seen, so that one would think there are no Domestics, and sometimes 'tis a difficult Matter to find the Master of the House. In a Word, the great Houses of _Genoa_ are mere Solitudes, excepting on a.s.sembly Days, of which there are some held here every Evening at the House of one n.o.bleman or another. Then the Apartments are n.o.bly illuminated, and there's all manner of Refreshments serv'd up in Profusion. a.s.semblies of this kind, and a sorry _Italian_ Opera, were all the Pleasures at _Genoa_ while I was there; so that a Stranger does not know what to do here with his Time. Here are also very few Entertainments made, and the Envoys, who are generally they that make the most, conform, when they are at _Genoa_, to the Temper of the People, which is to give their Guests nothing to eat or drink. In my time there was none here but the _English_ Envoy, who did not follow that Custom, for 'twas a Pleasure to him to treat his Friends with good Cheer.

While I was at _Genoa_ the Republic chose a new Doge: I saw him go to the Cathedral, and take the usual Oath: The Procession was on Foot; 'twas begun by some of the Doge's Officers, after whom Eight Pages, in Habits of crimson Velvet lac'd with Gold, went before the Doge, who was dress'd in a long Robe of crimson Velvet, with a Sort of square Cap of the same: He was supported by the General of the _Genoese_ Arms on his Right Hand, and by another Officer of the Republic on his Left Hand, and he walk'd between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_. The Senators follow'd two and two, dress'd in long Gowns of black Velvet. The Archbishop met the Doge about the middle of the Church, where was a Cushion of crimson Velvet for the Doge, and other Cushions for the Senators, who all kneel'd down as well as the Doge, and after a short Prayer the Archbishop led the Doge up to the Altar; then the Prelate took the Book of the Gospels, and presented it to the Doge, who, falling on his Knees, and laying his Hand on the Book, took an Oath to maintain the Republic in their Rights and Privileges; this done, the Doge return'd to his Palace, where he was complimented by all the Senators, and crown'd Doge of _Genoa_, and King of _Corsica_: Next Day he gave a great Feast to above 300 Persons.

The Doge of _Genoa_ is a living Example of the Instability of human Grandeur: His lasts but Two Years, at the Expiration of which Word is brought to him, that his Time is out, and that he must quit the Ducal Palace, and retire to his own. A Man to be a Doge must be completely 50 Years of Age: You know how very much his Authority is limited; he can do neither Good nor Harm; the only Occasion wherein he makes a little Figure is, when he receives and dispatches Amba.s.sadors in Ceremony.

Another Office, which is even less durable, is that of General of the Arms, which no one Man can exercise above Two Months, for Fear, no doubt, lest he who is invested with it should acquire too much Power.

This Republic was formerly very much inclin'd to espouse the Interests of _Spain_, when that Crown possess'd the _Milanese_, and the Kingdom of _Naples_, because most of the _Genoese_ n.o.bles had their Estates in those Countries; but now that the same are pa.s.s'd under the Emperor's Dominion, the Republic is oblig'd to carry it very fair to his Imperial Majesty, or else the Doge might be sent for to _Vienna_, as he was once by _Lewis_ XIV. to _Versailles_.

I was at _Genoa_ when the Republic sent a Galley to _Antibes_, to meet the famous Cardinal _Alberoni_, who, after having experienc'd the Inconstancy of Fortune in _Spain_, went to _Italy_, with a Design to retire to the Duchy of _Parma_, his native Country. The Disgrace of this Cardinal surpriz'd all _Europe_, except the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent of _France_, who was the Author of it. During the Truce to which the Cardinal had prevail'd on the King of _Spain_ to give his Consent, the Duke improv'd that Interval to negociate that Minister's Removal; and that he might succeed the better in his Design, he engag'd the Duke of _Parma_, who was the Queen of _Spain_'s Father-in-Law and Uncle, to act in Concert with him, for inducing the King of _Spain_ to put away his Prime Minister.

The Duke of _Parma_ charged _Scotti_, his Minister at _Madrid_, to negotiate this Affair, in which he met at first with astonishing Obstacles; but at last the Advantages he promis'd the Queen, on the Part of the Regent of _France_, both for herself and her Children, crown'd the Negociation with Success. The Cardinal was dismiss'd, perhaps, with more Precipitancy than he ought to have been, considering the Attachment he had always shewn to the Queen, and the Care he had taken to rouse _Spain_ from the Lethargy into which that Crown was fallen when he was declar'd Prime Minister. 'Twas on the 5th of _January_ that Cardinal _Alberoni_ found himself all at once abandon'd by every body, and oblig'd to fly from a Country where he had appear'd with more Authority than the King himself.

The Order was signify'd to him by Don _Miguel Durand_, Secretary of State, and was in the very Hand-writing of the King, who deliver'd it to the Secretary as he was going to the _Pardo_ to hunt. His Catholic Majesty thereby order'd his Minister to concern himself no more with State Affairs, to leave _Madrid_ in eight Days, and the Kingdom in three Weeks; and moreover, the Cardinal was forbid coming all that while to any Place where the King and Queen were.

The Disgrace of this Minister cou'd not but be the more pleasing to the Duke of _Orleans_, because it happen'd at a Time when the Cardinal was taking his Measures for accommodating Matters with _England_; whither he had sent _M. de Seissan_, formerly a Colonel in _France_, afterwards Lieutenant-General in _Poland_, and now Captain-General in _Spain_, to treat with my Lord _Stanhope_, who was then at the Head of the Affairs of that Kingdom. _M. de Seissan_ embark'd at the _Groyne_, after having been detain'd there a good while by contrary Winds: When he was out at Sea, he met with a severe Tempest, in which he had like to have been cast away; but at length he arriv'd at _London_. He went immediately to my Lord _Stanhope_, to whom he was known, and as he was going up Stairs, who should he meet coming down booted and spurr'd, but the very Courier from _France_ that brought my Lord _Stanhope_ Letters from the Abbot, afterwards the Cardinal, _du Bois_, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal _Alberoni_'s Disgrace. _M. de Seissan_, who knew nothing of the Change that had been made at the Court of _Madrid_ while he was buffeted and toss'd about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord _Stanhope_, and told him, That he was come to surrender himself his Prisoner, because he came from _Spain_ without a Pa.s.sport, unless he wou'd receive the _Carte blanche_ he brought him for Peace, instead of such Pa.s.sport. At the same time he produc'd to the _English_ Minister the Full Power which he had from Cardinal _Alberoni_ to treat of a Peace. My Lord _Stanhope_ did not interrupt him; but when he had done speaking, he ask'd him if it had been long since he left _Madrid_: _M. de Seissan_ telling him all the Delays that had happen'd in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot _Du Bois_'s Letter to read. The Envoy of _Spain_ was Thunder-struck when he read this Letter, and said thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to say to all this, and that he resign'd himself to his Discretion, to deal with him as he thought fit. My Lord answer'd him very civilly, That he should be sorry to abuse the Confidence he had repos'd in him, by coming to him without a Pa.s.sport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to _Spain:_ which he did accordingly, without Delay.

'Twas said that Cardinal _Alberoni_ was so piqu'd against the King and Queen of _Spain_, that he study'd Revenge; and that therefore as soon as he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to desire his Protection, and to allure him, that if he would be so good as to give him Shelter at _Paris_, he would let him into the Detail of the most secret Affairs of the _Spanish_ Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken the Reputation of a Minister in Disgrace. Be this as it will, the History of these Times, whether True or False, does Honour to the Regent; for they say that this Prince rejected the Cardinal's Offers, and contented himself with sending him a Pa.s.sport, that he might go to _Italy_. I saw him actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of _Genoa_, where his Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception he had from the Republic, which sent a Deputation to meet him, thought himself perfectly secure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to run him down, was not content with his being disgrac'd by the King of _Spain_; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the Cardinal might be arrested; which was no sooner said than done. Thus, in less than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal saw himself banish'd from a Court where he was the Dispencer of Favours, pillag'd upon the Road, and depriv'd of all his Papers, in danger of being murder'd by the Miquelets, and at last arrested in his own Country, where he arriv'd in Confidence that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require Courage to support them, such as these do; but of this Virtue Cardinal _Alberoni_ had an eminent Share, and I was always astonish'd to see with what Intrepidity he behav'd in his Adversity.

After I had stay'd a while at _Genoa_, I went to _Sarzana_[15], and from thence to PISA[16], which is a City in the Dominions of _Tuscany_, with a University and an Archbishop.r.i.c.k, and was formerly a Republic of no small Consequence in the _Mediterranean_, till it was conquered by the Dukes of _Tuscany_ of the Family of the _Medicis_, who have ever since remain'd Masters of it. The City of _Pisa_ has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan Church call'd the _Dome_, is of admirable Beauty: 'Tis built in the _Gothic_ Order, and its Roof is Supported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome and Roof of the Choir are also painted in the _Gothic_ Style. This great Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn'd with broad Gold Lace: In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium of which, and the Tabernacle, are solid Silver of admirable Workmanship.

Great Notice is also taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of cast Iron, with very fine Ba.s.so-Relievo's upon them, representing Historical Pa.s.sages of the old Old Testament. Near this Church is the great Church-yard, which is encompa.s.s'd with a Gallery, whose Walls painted in Fresco represent the History of the City of _Pisa_. At a small Distance from this Church-yard is the Baptistery, which is a Chapel built of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, supported by Pillars of Oriental Granite, bigger and higher than usual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mosaic Manner; and the Preacher's Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble.

St. _Stephen_'s Church is also worthy of the Attention of the curious Traveller, for its costly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets the Chapter of the Knights of St. _Stephen_, which was inst.i.tuted by the Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. _Anno_ 1561, after he had obtain'd a Victory. The Knights of this Order must be n.o.ble by four Descents: They make a Vow of Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross like the Cross of _Malta_, which is fasten'd to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Cross is also embroider'd upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. in Bra.s.s.

I carefully examin'd the famous Tower that leans to one Side: 'Tis round, and incompa.s.s'd with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There's an Ascent to the Platform or Terra.s.s, which is encompa.s.s'd with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps.

The Country about _Pisa_ is very pleasant: There's a Grove of Cypress at its Gates, whose continual Verdure is delightful. You know, _Madame_, that at _Pisa_ was concluded that famous Treaty between _Alexander_ VII. and _Lewis_ XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was settled which the Holy Father was to give the King, for the Affront his Amba.s.sador the Duke of _Crequy_ had receiv'd at _Rome_.

From _Pisa_ I went in a Day to FLORENCE[17], the Capital of _Tuscany_, and the ordinary Residence of the Great Dukes. 'Tis call'd _Florence the Fair_, and not without Reason; for 'tis one of the largest and finest Cities in _Europe_.

The Cathedral Church is a magnificent and most s.p.a.cious Pile: The Outside is fac'd all over with Marble of various Colours: The Inside contains immense Treasures, in Pictures, Statues, and other most curious Pieces.

Near the Cathedral is a Church commonly call'd the Chapel of the Baptistery, which is also intirely fac'd with Marble. The Church of the _Annunciade_ is another Structure in the high Stile; in every Part of which are stately Paintings, Works in Gold, Bra.s.s, _&c._ the whole of the utmost Delicacy: Yet notwithstanding the Richness of these Buildings, it may be said without Aggravation, that they are trifling in Comparison with the stately Church of St. _Lawrence_. 'Tis of a Hexagon Figure: In the Middle of every Front is a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a Chapiter of Bra.s.s gilt, which supports a Cornice and an Entablature of the same, each Pilaster representing the Emblems of precious Stones. At the six Angles there are six Tombs of very costly Marble, and over each a Cushion sprinkled with precious Stones, which supports very rich Crowns plac'd at the Foot of the Statues of the Great Dukes: These Statues, which are of Bra.s.s gilt, and twice as big as the Life, are plac'd in Niches of black Marble. The Pedestals of the six Tombs are overcast with Porphyry and a sort of Agat call'd Chalcedony, on which are inscrib'd, in Letters of Gold, the Epitaphs of the Princes whose Bodies are therein contain'd. All the rest of the Wall is lin'd with the best Marble, and costly Stones plac'd in Compartiments or Pannels, the Squares of which are of Bra.s.s gilded: The High Altar is of _Lapis Lazuli_ or Azure-stone inrich'd with Jewels. The Thing which strikes the Eye most of all is the Tabernacle, the Magnificence whereof is worthy of the rest. In a Word, I take it to be the only Building that can compare with the famous Temple of _Solomon_, of which there is so glorious a Description in the Scriptures.

Every one knows that 'twas the famous _Cosmo di Medicis_ who laid the Foundations of the Princ.i.p.ality of _Florence_, and that 'twas Pope _Pius_ IV. who gave it the t.i.tle of the Great Duchy. When I came hither, the Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. was still living, who, tho' very old, had a great deal of Vigour. He was a Man of the most civil Behaviour in the World, which, added to his fair Hair, gain'd him the Love and Veneration of all that approach'd him. I had the Honour to pay my Devoirs to him one Evening, as I was introduc'd to an Audience of him by his First Minister.