The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 7

I went afterwards to POZZUOLI or PUTEOLI, where I saw a Road, or rather a Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock, and partly in the Sand: 'Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc'd to grope out the Way in the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to give Notice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger of running foul of one another.

After I had pa.s.s'd this Cavern, I found myself near that call'd _la Grotte du Chien_, or the Dog's Grotto, which is but a narrow Cavern, and at most only Five Feet in Height, so that few People can stand upright in it. I there saw the Experiment usually made there: A Dog was laid flat with his Face to the Ground, which the very same Instant fell into Convulsions, and soon after shew'd no Sign at all of Life. Upon this he was thrown out of the Cavern as dead, when a Man took him, and put him into the Lake, which is but 25 or 30 Paces from the Cavern, and the Dog immediately recover'd his Spirits. After this Experiment was over, which I leave to be accounted for by wiser Heads than mine, I went to _Puteoli_, which in Truth has nothing of its ancient Splendor remaining. And I can't imagine why Foreigners make it a Sort of Law to go to it; for there's nothing now to be seen here, except old Ruins of no Signification.

The Impatience I had to see the famous City of _Venice_ did not permit me to continue long at _Naples_, so that I stay'd there no longer than was necessary to receive an Answer to a Letter, which I wrote at my Arrival there, to the Count _de S----_, in _Sicily_; wherein I pretended, that Affairs of the utmost Importance had prevented me from having the Honour of joining him as soon as I wish'd; but you must know, that this was all mere Compliment of mine, for several of my Friends had put me very much out of Conceit with going to serve in _Sicily_. And the Letter, which the Count _de S----_ return'd in Answer to mine, completed my Disgust; for he wrote in a Style that I did not like, and the Lectures he was pleas'd to give me, made me resolve not to expose myself to the Danger of receiving a second Letter: I wrote to him therefore, that he was welcome to dispose of my Commission, and that my Affairs did not permit me to enter into the Service so soon. From that time I determin'd to continue my Travels, and to try my Fortune at the _Spanish_ Court, to which I had for a long while been desirous of going; but you will soon perceive, that I was just as fortunate at that Court as I was at all the rest.

Having therefore no longer any Restraint upon me in my Travels, I chose to satisfy my Curiosity, and from _Naples_ I set out for _Venice_. I made the best of my Way thro' several little Towns of _St. Peter's_ Patrimony, in which there was nothing remarkable, besides sorry Victualling-houses, but stopp'd at LORETTO, a little Town in the Marquisate of _Ancona_, the Suburbs whereof I thought very charming: The Town itself is very pretty, and advantagiously situate, being plac'd on a Hill, from whence is a n.o.ble Prospect of the _Adriatic_ Sea, or Gulph of _Venice_. The Inhabitants of _Loretto_ are all very rich, yet all their Trade consists in Strings of Beads, Images of the Virgin, and other Things of that Sort; but then there's such a vast Resort of Pilgrims thither at every Turn, that the Money they lay out for Lodging, and for the Purchase of Images and Beads, is sufficient alone to maintain the Inhabitants handsomly.

You know, _Madame_, that the Business of a Pilgrimage to _Loretto_ is to visit a Chapel, which was formerly the House where the Holy Virgin dwelt, when the Angel brought her the Tidings that she should be the Mother of the Saviour of the World: 'Tis surprizing at first Dash to find a House in _Italy_, which was formerly built in a Country so far off; but when one comes to be a little acquainted with History, the Astonishment presently subsides; for this House shifted its Place several times before it fix'd in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: It was first, they say, remov'd by Angels from _Nazareth_, which was really its original Country, into _Dalmatia_, where it stay'd Three Years. When that Term was expir'd, the said Angels remov'd it a second time, and carry'd it to the Territory of _Recanati_, in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: But as every Day produc'd some Murder or Robbery in those Parts, the Angels, alarm'd at such a Neighbourhood, carry'd away the House a third time, and plac'd it some Distance from the Spot, where it stands now. But there it did not stay long; for a Couple of Friars, to whom the Ground belong'd on which the House was plac'd at that time, having a warm Contention which should be the Proprietor of it, the Angels soon put an End to the Dispute, by removing the Building the fourth and last time, and putting it where it now stands: To do Honour to this House, and perhaps also to fix it here, Care was taken to build a very magnificent Church, in the middle of which 'tis inclos'd. The Walls of this Church are lin'd with white Marble, wrought in _Ba.s.so-Relievo_ by the ablest Workmen of that Time; containing the whole History of the Holy Virgin: There are also between double Columns of the _Corinthian_ Order Two Rows of Niches, one above the other, in the lowermost Row whereof are the Statues of the Prophets, and in the uppermost those of the Sybils; the whole being of admirable Workmanship. The House of the Virgin, which is commonly call'd _Santa Casa_, seem'd to me to be built of Brick: 'Tis much longer than broad: 'Tis divided by an Altar into Two unequal Parts, in the least whereof is the miraculous Statue of the Virgin, which stands in a Nich, bearing the Infant Jesus in her Right Arm. The Mother and Child have each a Triple Crown of Gold, adorn'd with precious Stones. The whole Habit consists of a long Mantle of Gold Brocade, embroider'd with Pearls and Diamonds. The Sanctuary is lighted by several Lamps of solid Gold, of a prodigious Size, particularly one, not only remarkable for its Bigness, but for the Richness of the Workmanship, which was sent to _Loretto_ by the Republic of _Venice_, to fulfil a Vow of that Republic, during the time of a Plague, which made cruel Ravages in a great Part of the State of _Venice_.

As to the Divine Service, it may be said to be perform'd at _Loretto_, to the utmost Degree of Exactness; nor is there any thing more edifying than to see with what Devotion Pilgrims from all Countries come to visit the _Santa Casa_. They enter it upon their Knees, and devoutly kiss the Walls of it, as well as the Chimney, in which they pretend, the Holy Virgin dress'd her Meat. They also apply their Beads and Images to a Porringer, which, they say, was the very same that serv'd for the Holy Virgin's Soup-Dish.

As I went out of the Church, I was carry'd to a great Room, where I saw immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this Room I also saw the Virgin's numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw any thing like it. After I had well view'd this costly Wardrobe, I went to see the Palace, which is a very s.p.a.cious Building, not a great way from the Church. I was shew'd the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the a.r.s.enal, which is not very considerable.

When I had intirely satisfy'd my Curiosity at _Loretto_, I set out for _Bologna_, and went by the very Gates of _Ancona_, which is a Sea-Port in the Pope's Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din'd at Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac'd, and I could find no body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I thought very ancient.

From thence I went to PESARO, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the whole Duchy of _Urbino_ were united to the Holy See during the Pontificate of _Urban_ VIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was erected in Memory of that Event.

From _Pesaro_ I went in a Day to RIMINI, an Episcopal City which stood formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time, the Sea being retir'd from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place that _Caesar_ took at the Beginning of the Civil War. The Emperor _Augustus_ embellish'd it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here at this Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble Bridge well preserv'd, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote it was built by the Emperors _Augustus_ and _Tiberius_. All the way from _Rimini_ to _Bologna_ I saw nothing remarkable.

[21]BOLOGNA is an Archbishop.r.i.c.k, and the second in the Ecclesiastical State: 'Tis commonly call'd _Bologna the Fat_, because of its fruitful Soil. 'Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of having always at _Rome_ an Auditor pf the _Rota_, and an Amba.s.sador; which is punctually observ'd: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, but very s.p.a.cious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Bra.s.s erected to the Honour of _Gregory_ XIII. which is look'd upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of _Boniface_ VIII. which is not a bad one.

As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of _Bologna_, I cannot but speak in Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of _Italy_; and, to say all that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in _Italy_, 'tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.

After some Stay here, I set out for _Venice_, in a Boat call'd _The Messenger_, which goes off from _Bologna_ every Morning, or at least several times in a Week: 'Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman can be stow'd in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far, but, when we were still some Miles from _Ferrara_, we found the Water was too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc'd to go ash.o.r.e, where we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach, almost like the Stage-Coaches of _France_. The Outside of this Vehicle was so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides, the Coachman seem'd to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly, requir'd the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all ventur'd boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro' the most difficult Places, and carry'd us safe to _Ferrara_: But we had scarce enter'd that City, when our Charioteer, 'tis like to shew his Skill, made his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street; whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one of the Wheels behind pa.s.sing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn'd so suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill'd on the Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell'd Face for Seven or Eight Days. My _Valet de Chambre_, who sat over-against me, had his Wrist put out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company, there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz'd me more than any thing was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish'd to have walk'd about _Ferrara_[22], but my swell'd Face hinder'd me; and therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which carry'd me to VENICE[23], where I arriv'd at Midnight.

I kept my Chamber for some Days, till I was recovered of my Fall, and then took a Tour about the several Parts of the City, sometimes in the Gondola, and at other times on Foot. The former Method of Travelling, tho' very pleasant, is apt to frighten such as are not us'd to it, who often think themselves in danger of drowning, especially at the Turnings out of one Street into another; for then one would think the Boat was ready to be swallow'd up in the Ca.n.a.l; which indeed might very well be the Case with Boatmen of less Understanding than the Gondoliers of _Venice_; but these are so dexterous that one never hears of any Misfortune.

The first Thing I went to see was the famous Church dedicated to _St.

Mark_, the Protector of the Republic. The Front is adorn'd with Five Portico's, of which the middle one is bigger and more s.p.a.cious than the others. On the Top of it there are Four Horses of Bra.s.s, said to have formerly belong'd to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv'd for an Ornament to the Triumphal Arch which the Senate of _Rome_ caus'd to be erected for the Emperor _Nero_, after the Victory he gain'd over the _Parthians_. The Emperor _Constantine_ caus'd them to be remov'd afterwards to _Constantinople_, but the _Venetians_ brought them back again, after they had made themselves Masters of that City. Besides these Four Horses, the Front of the Church is adorn'd with other Statues. The Roof consists of several Domes, over which there are very fine Crosses. The Inside of the Church is truly magnificent: The Walls are lin'd throughout with Marble; the Pavement is also of Marble of perfect _Mosaic_ Workmanship; and the Roof is lin'd in the same manner.

From thence I went to the Palace of the Doge, the Architecture of which I took to be very irregular. The Hall where the n.o.bles meet, is a prodigious large Room: The Doge's Throne, which is plac'd at one End of it, is higher than the rest by some Steps: There the n.o.bles sit upon Benches fronting the Throne, which form Eleven Rows, or Walks, wide enough for a Person to pa.s.s easily between them: The Throne and the Seats of the n.o.bles are very plain: The Beauty of this Room consists intirely in Pictures that are worth seeing: There is one that represents the Taking of _Constantinople_ by the _Venetians_; and on the other Side is the History of Pope _Alexander_ III. and of the Emperor _Frederic Barbarossa_, with the Pictures of the several Doges.

There is a large Square call'd _The Broglio_, before the Doge's Palace, where the n.o.bles commonly take the Air; and tho' there be no Covering to it, nor any Verdure, yet 'tis very pleasant because of the Neighbourhood of the Sea, the Prospect of which is boundless and most delightful. The Resort of Ships, Galleys, and Gondolas, continually coming in and out here, affords another Scene, which is the more amusing because of its Variety. Besides this, one has the Pleasure too of discovering several little Islands that are said to be inhabited by none but Fryars, who have magnificent Churches and Convents there. At that End of this Square, next to the great Ca.n.a.l, there are Two fine Pillars of Marble; on one of which are the Arms of the Republic, _viz._ a Winged Lyon; and on the second is the Statue of _St. Theodore_, the ancient Patron of the Republic.

I had not the Honour of seeing the Doge, and therefore shall say nothing of him, only that he seems to me but an imaginary Prince, and in Effect no more than the First Slave of the Republic. All the l.u.s.tre he has, is to be at the Head of the Senate and the n.o.bles in all the a.s.semblies and Ceremonies; for the rest, his Credit, if he may be said to have any, is extremely bounded. The Ceremony in which he appears with all his Splendor, is that which is perform'd every Year at _Venice_, upon Ascention-Day: Then the Doge, at the Head of the Senate and all the n.o.bility, goes on board a stately Vessel call'd the _Bucentaure_; and when he is advanc'd a little way into the Gulph, he throws a Gold Ring into the Sea, and says, _We marry thee, O Sea, in Token of that True and Perpetual Dominion which the Republic has over Thee_. And indeed, the _Venetians_ look upon the _Adriatic Sea_ as their peculiar Property.

The _Venetian_ n.o.bles are as scrupulous in Matters of State, as the modern _Romans_ are in those of Ceremony; insomuch that they break off all Correspondence with any Man that keeps Company with an Amba.s.sador; of which I myself had Experience. As I had known _M. de Q----_ at the King of _England_'s Court at _Hanover_, and _M. G----_ at the Court of _Vienna_, I thought that when I saw them return'd to _Venice_, I could not do better than to pay them a Visit, in order to be introduc'd into good Families. I went to them accordingly, and was receiv'd with all possible Civility by those Gentlemen, who next Day return'd my Visit, when I observ'd in the Course of the Conversation, which was not very long, that Notice had been taken of my being so often at the House of the Imperial Amba.s.sador; and I, for my own Part, gave them to understand, that I was not dispos'd to make a Sacrifice of the Amba.s.sador's Family in Compliment to them. The Person who then resided there with that Character was the Count _de Colloredo_, at whose House there was an a.s.sembly every Night of all the Foreigners of most Distinction at _Venice_. He had with him the Countess of _Colloredo_, whom, no doubt, you have seen at the House of her Brother _M. de Blaspiel_, when she was the Widow of the Count _de Collonitz_. The Amba.s.sador and his Lady were perfectly complaisant to all Persons that came to their House, and there was every Day very good Company. I made an Aquaintance there with the Marchioness _de R----_, Daughter of the celebrated _Madame de M----_. This Lady had left the Court of _France_ and her Family, and, after having travell'd thro' several Countries, came and settled at _Venice_. I confess I was heartily concern'd to see a Lady, who must have been very amiable in her Time, reduc'd, by a natural Uneasiness of her Temper, which perhaps too was Hereditary, to lead so strolling a Life.

While I stay'd at _Venice_, the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_ came and spent a few Days there. The _Venetians_ made several Entertainments for him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing the _Venetian_ Ladies in all their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them; for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within Doors, so that 'tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince of _Modena_ stay'd at _Venice_, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz'd at the magnificent Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always in the Dress of the _Italians_. They were very constant at the b.a.l.l.s which were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas'd to see how fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain'd him with a Diversion call'd the _Regatte_, which is a Contention of small Vessels to out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish'd from one another by little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn'd with very fine Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress'd after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince of _Modena_ seem'd to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few Days after it, he set out from _Venice_. I thought also of proceeding in my Travels thro' _Italy_, and went to _Padua_ with the same Gondoliers that had serv'd me while I stay'd at _Venice_.

[24]PADUA is an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more ancient, they say, than _Rome_ and _Venice_. 'Tis thought to have been founded by _Antenor_ the _Trojan_ Prince, whose Tomb is still to be seen there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb, _Bologne la Gra.s.se, mais Padoue la pa.s.se_, i. e. _Bologne_ the _Fat_, but _Padua_ the _Fatter_. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but I thought the Churches of _St. Anthony_ and _St. Justina_ really magnificent.

The first, where lies the Body of _St. Anthony_, is fac'd with _Ba.s.so-Relievo's_ of white Marble, representing the princ.i.p.al Miracles wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn'd, and illuminated with Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day.

_St. Justina_'s Church, tho' far inferior to _St. Anthony_'s in point of Magnificence, is one of the finest in all _Italy_. The High Altar is, in all respects, a finish'd Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn'd with _Ba.s.so-Relievo's_, representing the Prophecies contain'd in the Old Testament relating to _Jesus Christ_; and the fulfilling of them in the New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the largest in _Europe_, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to support it; but the Fault of it is 'tis pretty dark, though I know not what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such that it might be procur'd for a very small Charge.

From _Padua_ I went to _Modena_, by the Way of _Ferrara_ and _Bologna_.

The Soil of _Padua_ being very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach to _Ferrara_, where I took Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get to _Bologna_. The very Day that I arriv'd at the latter, I set out for _Modena_, to which is a very plain Road thro' a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted at every Turn with a pleasing Variety.

MODENA is the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in which _Mark Anthony_ besieg'd _Brutus_, after the Murder of _Caesar_. The Dukes of _Modena_ are of the Family of _Est_, and depend on the Empire. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv'd me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for the Empress _Leonora_, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv'd me standing: As soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc'd me to put on mine, talk'd kindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well satisfy'd with my Audience.

As I had no Design to stay long at _Modena_, I did but glance over the several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller's Regard. The Streets of _Modena_ are narrow, nasty, and ill-pav'd, the Street of the _Course_ being the only one that is tolerable. The Duke's Palace will be grand and magnificent when finish'd; as much as I saw of it carry'd up, being sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke's Apartments are s.p.a.cious and richly furnish'd: There was one of them fitting up for _Madamoiselle de Valois_, the Daughter of the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, now the Princess of _Modena_, who they expected would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be.

This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life they live at the Court of _Modena_, to which none can compare for Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it from so gay a Court as that of _France_. In short, the Life of the Court of _Modena_ is the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Ma.s.s, and dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are in Bed. This, _Madame_, is the common Custom at the Court of _Modena_; at least they liv'd thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repet.i.tion of the same thing over again in Life, which is by no means suitable to a Sovereign Court.

From _Modena_ I went to REGGIO, a City and Bishop.r.i.c.k between _Parma_ and _Modena_. This Town is noted for its Fairs, which are said to have some Resemblance with ours at _Francfort_ and _Leipsic_. I have been told, that during these Fairs there's always a n.o.ble Opera perform'd in this Town.

From _Reggio_ I struck into the Road to PARMA, an Episcopal City, and Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. The Cathedral is a magnificent Pile, and the Dome is adorn'd with Paintings, which are much admir'd by the best Judges. As to the rest of the City, it appear'd to me to be large and very well built. Its Inhabitants are polite, generous and ingenious, and there's a good Number of n.o.bility here, but they live so much after the _Italian_ manner, that 'tis not an easy Matter to get acquainted with them.

The Court of _Parma_ is but little, if any thing, gayer than that of _Modena_: I was perfectly well receiv'd by the then Duke, _viz._ _Francis Farnese_, who, by a Dispensation, of which there are few Examples in the Catholic Church, had marry'd his Brother's Widow. This Princess is call'd _Dorothy_ of _Neubourg_: She is Sister of the Elector Palatine, and had by her first Husband _Elizabeth Farnese_, the present Queen of _Spain_: She having no Issue by her second, the Duchy of _Parma_, by the Death of Duke _Francis_ _Feb. 22, 1727_, devolv'd to his Brother _Anthony Farnese_, who marry'd _Henrietta_ Princess of _Modena_. As there is Reason to believe that this Marriage too will prove sterile, the famous _Farnese_ Family, which owes its Advancement to _Paul_ III. will be extinct in this _Anthony_. The said Pope, a little after his Exaltation to the Pontificate, gave the Invest.i.ture of the Dominions of _Parma_ and _Placentia_ to _Lewis Farnese_ his b.a.s.t.a.r.d, who marry'd a b.a.s.t.a.r.d Daughter of the Emperor _Charles_ V. yet this double b.a.s.t.a.r.dy has not been a Bar to the matching of this with the chief Families in _Europe_.

I stay'd Three Days at _Parma_, and then proceeded on my Journey; I pa.s.s'd thro' PIACENZA or PLACENTIA, so call'd from its pleasant Situation; Nature having not form'd a finer Country any where than that betwixt this City and _Parma_: Here is a very fine Castle, and a n.o.ble Square, in which is the Court of Justice. The Houses are very well built, but not lofty, tho'

indeed it would not signify any thing if they were higher, it being so thinly inhabited, that it looks like a Desert; for sometimes one shall walk a long while in this City, and not meet a Soul.

I stay'd but a Day at _Piacensa_, and went directly to MILAN, the capital City of one of the finest Duchies in the World: 'Tis one of the most beautiful Cities in all _Italy_, and the most magnificent in Buildings, both sacred and profane. The Metropolitan Church is, next to _St. Peter_'s at _Rome_, one of the finest Pieces of Work that can be imagin'd: 'Tis all white Marble within and without, and there's a great Number of Statues of the same. The Roof is supported by 160 Columns of white Marble, which are each valued at 10,000 Crowns. The Tower at the Top of it is also worth visiting, its Situation being so advantagious, that one sees several Cities from it, and a good Part of _Lombardy_.

There are several other n.o.ble Churches, of which I don't propose to give you a Description, nor of many other elegant Structures, that are likewise richly furnish'd; for the _Milanese_ Gentry love Magnificence: Their Apartments have a certain grand and n.o.ble Air, which the _Italians_ for most part rarely affect. The People of Quality here are very sociable: There's an a.s.sembly every Night at one House or other by Turns, and in all Places there's great Freedom. Every one has his favourite Amus.e.m.e.nt; some chat, others play. They commonly sup together, after the Gaming is over, and sometimes they have a sort of Ball. You perceive, _Madame_, by what I have already said of _Milan_, that 'tis a very agreeable Place to live in: I forgot to mention one distinguishing Quality of the _Milanese_, which is, that they are not at all jealous, a Fault that seems so predominant in the Temper of the _Italians_, that I cannot imagine how they escape it.

You must know, that never was City subject to more Revolutions than _Milan_: It has been besieg'd 40 times, and 22 times taken, but was never worse treated than it was by the Emperor _Frederic_ I. surnam'd _Barbarossa_. This Prince, after he had taken it, caus'd it to be demolish'd, and sow'd it with Salt; only a few Churches were spar'd. The Duchy of _Milan_, which, by its Situation, lies convenient for many Sovereigns, has always prov'd a Source of Wars for _Italy_: You have read no doubt in several Histories, what Misfortunes this Duchy has entail'd upon the neighbouring Provinces, especially during the Reigns of _Charles_ V. and _Francis_ I. King of _France_. The latter having demanded the _Milanese_ for his second Son the Duke of _Orleans_, the Emperor promis'd to give him the Invest.i.ture of it, but he was so little a Slave to his Word, that he gave himself no Trouble to discharge his Promise, which bred an implacable Hatred between those Two Monarchs: It was indeed suspended more than once, but 'twas always to gain a Breathing-time, for they hated each other as long as they liv'd.

After I had stay'd awhile at _Milan_, I set out for the Court of _Savoy_.

The first City I stopped at was CASAL, formerly one of the strongest and most important Fortresses in _Italy_: The Citadel especially was by all good Judges look'd upon as one of the Wonders of the World. _Lewis_ XIV.

who had Possession of it for a long time, caus'd such fortifications to be made there, as are hardly to be match'd. That Monarch observing the Bigness of the Buildings, caus'd an Intrenchment and a second Rampart to be made, which form'd a new Bastion in the Centre of the first; but now there remain only some Vestigies of those fine Works; the Fortifications both of the City and Citadel having been demolish'd in 1695, according to a Capitulation made between the _Germans_ and the _French_, when the former made themselves Masters of the Place.

_Casal_ belong'd heretofore to the Dukes of _Mantua_, but now, by the Emperor's Grant thereof, it belongs to the King of _Sardinia_.

I went in one Day from _Casal_ to[25]TURIN, the capital City of _Piedmont_, the See of an Archbishop, and the chief Seat of the Duke of _Savoy_. 'Tis not very large, but is in the main a very pretty Town, the Streets being broad and strait, the Houses generally uniform, and intermingled with n.o.ble Edifices: Here is also a Citadel, one of the strongest that can be imagin'd, every Part of it being countermin'd. There is a Well of a very singular Construction, which, tho' very deep, is so contrived, that several Horses may go down and up again, without meeting one another: This is perform'd by means of a double Stair-case without Steps, which winds so many times, that it makes the Descent easy.

The Entrance into _Turin_ thro' the new Gate gives one a grand Idea of the City: We come first into a great and very long Street, the Houses of which are all of the same Architecture: About the middle of it is the Square of _St. Charles_, which is encompa.s.s'd with Houses perfectly uniform, which would make a much more grand Appearance, if the Piazza's, that run round it, were but higher. After one has pa.s.s'd the Square of _St. Charles_, the same new Street brings us to a second Square, that fronts the King's Palace, on the Right Hand of which stands the Palace where liv'd _Madame Royale_, the King's Mother: These Two Palaces have a Communication with each other by a Gallery.