The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 4

Then came at a little Distance a Moor on Horseback, in the _Turkish_ Dress, all in Gold and Silver Brocade, bearing a Quiver of Arrows; he was follow'd by 24 Moors, dress'd also in the _Turkish_ Habit, in scarlet Cloaths edg'd with blue and Gold Lace, and long Vests of white Sattin; and upon their Turbans they wore very fine Tufts of Feathers.

Immediately after came the Princess's Coach between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_; 'twas adorn'd with crimson Velvet, cover'd all over with Gold Embroidery; the Roof was adorn'd with 8 great Plumes of white Feathers, and in the middle there were Tufts of Herons Feathers: This Equipage was drawn by 8 stately _Neapolitan_ Horses, which had Harnesses of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, and Plumes of white Feathers upon their Heads, with n.o.ble Housings of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, and edg'd with Gold Fringe, which hung down to the Ground: The Coachman, Postilions and 8 Grooms led the Horses by Strings and Reins of Gold, and they had Coats of crimson Velvet, with Waistcoats fac'd with blue Velvet, and adorn'd with a broad Gold Lace.

Immediately after her Highness's Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold follow'd on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of Feathers on their Turbans.

A Company of the Life-Guards.

5 Coaches with the _Saxon_ Livery, in which sat the Princess's chief Lady and her Maids of Honour.

A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac'd with blue, clos'd the March.

With this pompous Train the Princess arriv'd at the Palace: The Streets thro' which her Highness pa.s.s'd were lin'd with 5000 Foot in new Cloaths: The Electoral Prince handed the Princess out of her Coach, and led her into the grand Apartment, where were the King and Queen and the whole Court: From the very Entrance of the Palace to the Guard-Room the Hundred _Swiss_ were drawn up in Two Rows under Arms: The Guard-Room was lin'd with the Horse-Guards in scarlet Coats fac'd with blue, and blue Cloth Waistcoats embroider'd with Gold: The Life-Guards form'd the second Row, next to the Horse-Guards.

The King and Queen went to the third Antichamber to meet the Princess, when the King presented her to the Queen, whose Hand her Highness offer'd to kiss; but her Majesty embrac'd her, and taking her by the Hand, led her after the King into the Chamber of Audience: They stay'd there a few Moments, and then their Majesties and their Highnesses went into the Closet, from whence the Queen led her back in a little time to the Chamber of Audience, where she presented all the Ladies to her. Afterwards the Princess being fatigued retir'd to her Apartment, and the Court broke up till next Morning, when there was a _Te Deum_ sung, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon from the Ramparts, and of the small Arms from all the Infantry: After this Solemnity was over, the King and Queen din'd in State, at a Table forming an oblong Square, rais'd Three Steps from the Floor, and plac'd under a magnificent Canopy: The Prince and Princess din'd with their Majesties, the Prince at one End of the Table near the King, and the Princess at the other End by the Queen: They had Arm-Chairs, but not so high as were those of their Majesties.

At the same time there were 9 Tables spread for 30 Guests apiece, for the Ladies, the Courtiers, and the Foreigners: There was a fine Concert of Music during the Dinner, and at Night an _Italian_ Opera.

The Court did not a.s.semble next Day till the Evening, when there was a grand Ball, which the King open'd with the Queen: Their Majesties danc'd a _Polish_ Dance to the Music of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets: When the Dance was over, the King led the Queen to a Place that was rais'd Three Steps above the Floor, under a rich Canopy. He then danc'd with the Princess, who danc'd afterwards with the Queen; and then the Queen danc'd with the Prince, who danc'd afterwards with the Princess: When all these Dances were ended, they began Minuets, and the Ball lasted till 2 o'Clock in the Morning, only it was thrice interrupted by Three Collations, which were serv'd up by 24 _Polish_ Pages, as many _Saxon_ Pages, and by the same Number of Moors and Turks, who had all the same Habits as they wore upon the Day of the Entry, which was a Sight as singular as it was magnificent.

The next Day after this Ball, which was the 5th of _September_, a Comedy was perform'd by _French_ Comedians, who play'd _Ariane_, and _l'Ete des Coquettes_.

On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the Purpose.

On the 7th there was a grand _Italian_ Opera, int.i.tul'd _Theophanes_, in which the famous Musicians _Senesino_ and _Bercelli_ perform'd surprisingly. The Opera being longer than ordinary, the King, who sat in the Pit, supp'd there with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses: And at the same time there were little Tables serv'd in the Boxes for the Ladies.

There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the 10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play'd in the Garden of the King's Palace. There the King supp'd with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each, and serv'd all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper there was a fine Firework play'd, representing the carrying off of the Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at, and I made ready to set out for _Sicily_, where my Employment required my Presence: Yet, before I leave _Dresden_, I must say a Word or two concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time.

The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, the Electoral Prince and Princess.

The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; 'tis impossible to see him without being captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the Electorate of _Saxony_; and soon after, upon the Death of _John Sobieski_, the _Poles_ chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he commanded the Emperor's Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and Valour.

The Queen is of the Family of _Brandenbourgh Bareith_, and was espous'd to the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port, and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities: She resides commonly at _Torgau_, or at _Pretsch_, and comes but very seldom to _Dresden_: She has a separate House from the King's, which is very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King having given her the old Chapel at _Dresden_ and caus'd another to be built for Himself and the Catholics.

The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his Grandmother, who was a Princess of _Denmark_: When he was able to support the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to _Italy_, and from thence to _France_, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a King; after which the Prince went to _Vienna_, and 'twas during the Stay he made at the Court that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the Archd.u.c.h.ess, now the Electoral Princess: You'll judge by the Account I have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost impossible but she must be very much belov'd at the Court of _Saxony_; and she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People who conceiv'd some Umbrage at the Prince's Marriage, for Fear of their Religion, were quickly reconcil'd to it: For indeed what Violence was there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish'd for her Moderation and Good-nature?

These, _Madame_, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now 'tis augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho' the Royal Family was not numerous when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and Courtiers, who were then at _Dresden_, made it very splendid: I had the Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don't undertake now to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some Account of the City of _Dresden_. [11] _Dresden_ is one of the finest Towns in _Germany_ for its Situation and its Structures; 'tis the Capital of _Misnia_ in _Upper Saxony_. _Charlemain_ was the first that caus'd it to be fortify'd; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence of the Dukes and Electors of _Saxony_, who have caus'd its Fortifications to be considerably augmented, and 'tis now a very strong Place: 'Tis divided by the River _Elbe_ into Two Parts, call'd _The New Town_ and _The Old Town_. In the latter stands the Prince's Palace, which was formerly a very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being consum'd by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments, which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are n.o.bly furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of _Cosel_, who liv'd in it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest, but perfectly well dispos'd, and they are adorn'd with fine Paintings, and very richly furnish'd: Near the King's Palace there's a very fine Garden, call'd _Zuinger-Garten_, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the middlemost there's a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac'd with Marble, with gilded Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Gla.s.s are embellished with very fine large Plate-Gla.s.s. The rest of the Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet perhaps a little too much inc.u.mber'd with carv'd Work.

Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King's Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render _Old Dresden_ a very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well pav'd, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it.

This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into _New Dresden_ is a House that belongs to the King, and is call'd _The Palace of_ Holland, because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which 'tis adorn'd, came from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its Situation most charming by reason of the River _Elbe_, which runs just by it.

The Inhabitants of _Dresden_ are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest of _Saxony_, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of _Saxony_ bears the t.i.tle of _Grand Marshal of the Empire_, and is the Third in Rank among the Secular Electors.

Thus, _Madame_, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the Electorate of _Saxony_: I own to you, I lik'd the Country very much, and the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it, and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to _Sicily_.

When I left _Dresden_, I took the Road to MUNICH, to which I made very great Haste, because I was so teiz'd with my old Ailment, for which _La Peronie_ had me under Cure at _Paris_, that I did not care to delay, putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me, was no less a Man than the Elector's own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy'd from the Surgeon's Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany'd them in Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health: The Count _de Charolois_, who was still at the Court of _Bavaria_, made an Agreement with the Princes of _Bavaria_, to ride Post to _Saltzbourg_, to see an _Italian_ Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to celebrate his Birth-Day: The _Bavarian_ Princes set out first, and lodged in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be _incog._ The Count _de Charolois_ set out from _Munich_ at 8 o'Clock at Night, with only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the Evening arriv'd at SALTZBOURG: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the _Bavarian_ Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I a.s.sure you, _Madame_, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre, the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch'd the Ceiling with their Heads: The Singing and Dancing were something comical: What most diverted me were the Interludes, which were _executed_ by the Archbishop's Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands, but Sheep appear'd every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc'd, some, who mov'd the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff'd with Straw skip up and down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry'd Lines, to which were fasten'd Trouts; others appear'd with Nets full of live Fish, which made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted themselves very much with this Piece, and 'twas a long rime before they could get the Archbishop's Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on't.

Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be _incog._ they were known, and the Archbishop, who was inform'd of their Arrival upon the very Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper, desiring at the same time to be excus'd for not waiting on them in Person, which he a.s.sur'd them he should have done, if he had not been made acquainted, that they were willing to be _incog._ The _Bavarian_ Princes were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop's Supper; and for my own Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good in that pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my Heart to have been at the Archbishop's Table. But the Count _de Charolois_ would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to him, the _Bavarian_ Princes refus'd it likewise; however, they paid the Archbishop a Visit, and the Count _de Charolois_ went along with them by the Name of the Count _de Dammartin_; I had also the Honour to accompany them: The Archbishop receiv'd the Princes without any Ceremony, according to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very short. The Princes return'd to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv'd up exactly in the _Gout_ of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress'd enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn'd into a Ragou; but 'tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous; for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil'd it to a Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv'd up: This insipid Dish was follow'd by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at Night, and then the Princes of _Bavaria_ went to Bed, but as for the Count _de Charolois_, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp'd, and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return'd to _Munich_, but went by the way of _Alten-Ottingen_, in order to see the Treasure that is kept in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which contain'd very fine Things, was inrich'd with Abundance of n.o.ble Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in _Europe_. From thence we set out for _Munich_, where we arriv'd after a Ramble of Three Days and as many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell'd near 40 _German_ Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin'd.

The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at _Munich_ even refus'd to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis'd me to make a Tour to _Paris_, where the most able Professors in Arts of all Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for 'twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid, that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv'd to go to _Paris_. But, before I set out, I wrote to the Count _de S----_, to tell him the Condition I was in, tho' I a.s.sur'd him that I would stay no longer at _Paris_ than was necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish'd or not I can't tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv'd no Answer. I was sorry to leave _Munich_, and no doubt, _Madame_, you are surpriz'd to find me going for _Paris_, as it were in spite of my Will, and I a.s.sure you, that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I always found so many things to charm me, tho' I was fully sensible, that the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me heartily weary of staying in it.

This therefore was the first time that I may say I set out for _Paris_ with Regret: I went thither by the way of _Strasbourg_, and when I arriv'd I put myself again into the Hands of _la Peronie_, who in less than a Month's Time made me sound! During that s.p.a.ce I notify'd my Arrival to some particular Friends, who kept me Company till I was perfectly cur'd. They told me surprizing News, of which I had already been informed by several Letters; but 'twas all so improbable, I never could believe it to be true. Millions was the Word in every body's Mouth, and he that was but a Lackey one Day, was the next a Lord. 'Twas sufficient only to be seen in the famous Street of _Quinquempoix_, and unless you were quite forsaken by your Guardian Angel, you were sure of going off of the Place with immense Wealth. I was advis'd to do as others did, and to try if Fortune was still resolv'd to frown upon me: A great many Persons were nam'd to me that had actually got Millions, who came first into the Street with almost nothing in their Pockets; that was my Case exactly: But the Hopes of good Luck made me resolve to try my Fortune, as soon as I was able to stir abroad: And thither I actually went, and put myself in the Rank with those who sacrific'd to Fortune: I had the best Luck in the World at first setting out, and without knowing how or which way, found myself possess'd in a little time of a considerable Sum, such that I am even asham'd to tell you how much it amounted to, since you would absolutely p.r.o.nounce me a Madman, for not knowing when I had enough; but in short I began so well, that I thought it would be cowardly to stop, and therefore I push'd on; but was quickly sensible that I had committed a gross Blunder in not drawing back; for my Millions vanish'd almost in the same manner as they came, and without knowing why or wherefore, I found my Purse empty, and was forc'd, whether I would or no, to renounce that Sort of Negociation.

While the domestic Affairs of the Kingdom were in this Fluctuation, the Army of _France_ press'd the _Spaniards_ very hard. The Campaign in _Navarre_ prov'd very successful. I have already had the Honour to acquaint you of the Taking of _Fontarabia_, which was follow'd soon after by the Conquest of _St. Sebastian_. The _Germans_ on their Part made themselves Masters of almost all _Sicily_, so that the King of _Spain_ seem'd almost reduced to a Necessity of demanding Peace, and that very soon. Cardinal _Alberoni_ was not disturb'd at the Advantages of his Enemy, and had a very great Dependence on the Uneasiness of the People of _Bretagne_, where he had a Party actually form'd, that was to declare openly against _Spain_, upon the first Motion which that Crown should make towards the Coasts of that Province. The Cardinal caus'd the Duke of _Ormond_ to sail to that Province, but 'twas to no Purpose; for the Regent had been appriz'd of all these Schemes, and so well concerted his Measures, that 'twas impossible for the Duke of _Ormond_ to undertake any thing on that Side. Nevertheless, some Malecontent _Bretons_, who were Refugees in _Spain_, a.s.sur'd me, that if the Duke had arriv'd sooner, the Blow would not have fail'd, the whole Province would have revolted, and caus'd the States General to a.s.semble, and declare the King of _Spain_ Regent. For my Part, who knew all the Leaders of this Party full well, I did not think the Success of this Affair so very sure. Those Gentlemen were indeed Persons of a great deal of Sense, but of stronger Pa.s.sions; and to say all in a few Words, they play'd at high Game, to think of surprizing the Regent! His Wisdom prevented all the Calamities which the Kingdom was threaten'd with: He sent a Sovereign Court to _Bretagne_, of which _M. de Chateauneuf_ was President, and he supported its Authority by a Body of Troops under the Command of the Marshal _de Montesquiou_. They began to make a Search after the Authors of the Rebellion, and 'twas expected that a great deal of Blood would be spilt, yet there were only a few Gentlemen, who paid for all with the Loss of their Heads. They say, that among those Gentlemen One might have escap'd, if he had thought fit; but when he was going on board, and saw the Waves very swelling, he remember'd that some body had told him, he should perish _par la Mer_, i.

e. by Sea, and the Fear of Drowning made him turn back, so that he was apprehended, and had his Head cut off by a Hangman, whose Name was _la Mer_. A great Matter of Triumph this was to the Fortune-tellers!

Besides these, Warrants were issued against several other Gentlemen, but they being not afraid of the Sea, made no Scruple to expose themselves to it: Some fled to _Spain_, and some to _Hanover_, where the King of _England_ granted them an _Asylum_, without violating the Alliance made with _France_, which imported, that the Two Kings should give no Shelter in their Kingdoms to the revolted Subjects of either; for the Duchy of _Hanover_ being an Electorate, was not included in this Treaty.

'Twas well for a great many People of _Bretagne_, that Warrants were issued out against them; for most of them had but little to leave behind, and they were receiv'd in _Spain_ as Persons that had sacrific'd their All for that Crown. Most of these were made Colonels by the Cardinal, tho' he knew not whether they had ever been in the Service, while others, that had really abandoned considerable Estates, were so unfortunate as to have the least Reward.

These were the Transactions at _Paris_ during the little time I stay'd there; for as soon as I found myself able to walk, I set out in good earnest for _Sicily_; but not being quite well enough to ride Post, I made but short Days journeys. I lay the first Night at _Melun_, and din'd the next Day at MORET, which is a Village near _Fontainebleau_, with a Convent, where they say, that the Negro Princess, of whom the Queen _Mary Theresa_ was deliver'd, is a Nun.

From _Moret_ I went to _Sens_, and from thence to AUXERRE, which City I found in an Uproar, on account of a very tragical Adventure: A Baker having been very familiar for some time with the Wife of a Pastry-cook, was reproach'd for it by his own Wife, who even threaten'd she would make him smart for it; but the Baker, not at all terrify'd by her Menaces, proceeded in his Amour as usual; while his Wife being desperate, and raging with Jealousy to find herself depriv'd of conjugal Duty, was resolv'd her Rival should not have the Pleasure of his Company any longer; and therefore, as he was one Night in Bed with her, she took a Razor, and shav'd him so close, that it was no more in his Power to give her any Jealousy. The poor Man was in a very bad way when I happen'd to be at _Auxerre_. I had this Story from my Landlady, where I quarter'd, who told it me not without great Lamentation.

From _Auxerre_ I went to DIJON[12], the Capital of _Burgundy_, and the Seat of the Parliament and of the Governor of the Province. In this City the States of _Burgundy_ hold their a.s.semblies, and the Duke of _Burgundy_, who is Governor of the Province, commonly presides there in the King's Name. The Parliament of the Province was establish'd here by _Philip_ Duke of _Burgundy_, and confirm'd by _Lewis_ XI. Here is also a Chamber of Accompts, a Mint, and a Presidial Court.

'Tis a very fine Country from _Dijon_ to _Chalons_[13], all along by those excellent Vineyards which produce the choicest Wines of _Burgundy_. At _Chalons_ I found a Conveniency to go to _Lyons_: The Road is the finest that can be travell'd, for we go all the Way by the River _Saone_, which forms the most charming Vista, and with the greatest Variety of Prospects that can be imagin'd. I pa.s.s'd by _Trevoux_, the Capital of the Princ.i.p.ality of _Dombes_, which belongs to the Duke of _Maine_, to whom it was given as a Legacy by the last Will and Testament of the late _Madamoseille_ of _France_, Daughter to the late _Gaston_ Duke of _Orleans_.

From _Trevoux_ 'tis but a few Days Journey to LYONS: Before we come to this City, one sees upon the Right Hand of the Road that dismal Castle of _Pierre-Encise_, to which those Criminals are commonly sent, who are condemned to perpetual Imprisonment.

LYONS[14] is the Capital of the _Lyonnois_, on the Conflux of the _Rhone_ the _Saone_. 'Tis one of the finest and most magnificent Cities in _France_: Its Situation is charming, its Squares superb, and its Buildings, both sacred and profane, very n.o.ble. _St. John_'s which is the Cathedral Church, is a magnificent Structure of _Gothic_ Architecture, where, among other Remarkables, is that fine Clock, which is reckon'd a Master-piece. The Canons have the t.i.tle of _Counts of_ Lyons, and are oblig'd to produce the same Proofs of their Qualification as the Knights of _Malta_.

The Town-House is one of the most magnificent Buildings of the kind, and I know of none but the Stadthouse at _Amsterdam_ that exceeds it. The Square in which 'tis built is call'd _la Place des Terreaux_: 'Tis a very beautiful Quadrangular Structure; and there is to be seen the fine Abby of the Ladies of _St. Peter_, now in Possession of a Daughter of the _Marshal de Villeroy_.

The Square of _Bellecour_ is the finest Part of all the City; 'tis adorn'd with an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. erected upon a Pedestal of white Marble, at the Expence of the _Marshal de Villeroy_, Governor of _Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, in Acknowledgment of that Monarch's continued Favours to him and all his Family.

After one is out of the Square of _Bellecour_, we come to the magnificent Stone-Bridge, which unites the Two Quarters of the City that are separated by the _Saone_. As we go off this Bridge, we advance upon a stately Key, that runs along the River, and is call'd the _Villeroy Key_, because it was built by Order of the Marshal of that Name. The Family of _Villeroy_ is mightily belov'd and respected throughout the _Lyonnois_, and while I was there, all the Dignities of this Province were fill'd by one Gentleman or other of that Name. The Marshal himself was the Governor, and the Reversion of his Post was secur'd to his Son the Duke _de Villeroy_, and to the Dukes of _Rets_ and _Alincourt_ his Grandsons: The latter of these is Lieutenant-General of the Province: The Archbishop.r.i.c.k was occupy'd by one of the Marshal's Sons, as the Abby of the Nuns of _St. Peter_ was by one of his Daughters.

The Commerce of _Lyons_ is still very flourishing, tho' it was much more so before the famous Scheme of the Bank Bills, which did great Detriment to its Manufactures: Yet for all that, there's not a Town in _France_ where there are such wealthy Merchants: Their Conversation too is very amiable, and they live for most Part like People of Rank; I don't mean in Point of Magnificence, for which there needs nothing but Money, but by reason of their easy and polite Behaviour, which always denotes a good Education.

I embark'd on the _Rhone_ at _Lyons_ for _Avignon_: There are considerable Towns upon this River which yield n.o.ble Prospects: Such is the City of VIENNE, the Capital of the _Viennois_, with the t.i.tle of an Archbishop.r.i.c.k: Here are stately Vestigies of the Magnificence of the _Romans_, who spar'd no Cost to render this a considerable Place: We are a.s.sur'd, that _Pilate_ was banish'd hither, and they even shew a House, Half a League or more from the City, where 'tis said he liv'd. But I should be glad to know in the first Place, Whether 'tis really true that he ever came into this City? You may believe as much of it as you please.

From _Vienne_ I proceeded to _Valence_ and PONT ST. ESPRIT: In this latter Town I saw that n.o.ble Bridge which is the Admiration of all Foreigners; 'tis one of the finest and most stately in _Europe_: It has 23 Arches, the Pillars of which are very large with Overtures, in the Nature of Doors, to give a freer Pa.s.sage to the _Rhone_ when its Waters swell. They say, that in these Pillars there are Vaults, where they us'd to put the Fanatics of the _Cevennes_: The Pa.s.sage of this Bridge is defended by a Citadel.

From _Pont St. Esprit_ 'tis but a little way to AVIGNON, which is a City of _Provence_ that belongs to the Pope. _Clement_ VI. purchas'd it of _Joan_ Queen of _Provence_ for a very moderate Sum; since which time it has ever been subject to the Holy See. The Popes made it the Place of their Residence for above 70 Years; but _Gregory_ XI. re-establish'd the Holy See at _Rome_ about the Year 1377. Several Factions arising afterwards among the Christian Princes on account of the Election of the Popes, some of the Anti-Popes liv'd here. The Cathedral, which is magnificent tho' very ancient, is dedicated to our Lady of _Dombes_.