Rambles in Dickens' Land Part 4

"St. Paul's Churchyard-low archway on the carriage side, bookseller's at one corner, hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as touts for licences."

He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circ.u.mstance of his father's having been here persuaded to take a marriage licence, directing the lady's name to be filled in on speculation.

We hear more of Doctors' Commons in the chronicles of "David Copperfield."

The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins were situated in this locality; but the site is now occupied by the Post Office Savings' Bank in _Knightrider Street_. Pa.s.sing through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul's (right), we cross _Carter Lane_, and proceed by a narrow court, _Bell Yard_, to the street above mentioned. At the corner of Carter Lane and Bell Yard is the "_Bell Tavern_," which it may be interesting to note, as a house where Mr. d.i.c.kens frequently rested, making his notes in preparation for David's "choice of a profession." For full particulars the Rambler is referred to chapter 23 of David's autobiography.

It may also be remembered that the worthy _Mr. Boffin_ (see "Our Mutual Friend"), when instructing his attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in his ideas relative to this inst.i.tution. In conversation with Mr.

Lightwood, he once referred to the same as a legal personality-"_Doctor Scommons_!"

This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its name and aspect. The old archway has disappeared. As previously stated, it is now known as Dean's Court. In connection with its old a.s.sociations, there exists _The Bishop of London's Registry and Marriage Licence Office_, at the east corner of the court; and there are some Proctors'

offices doing business, as in the days of Copperfield, in the neighbourhood.

On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into Cheapside, soon arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 122), at Wood Street.

a.s.sociated with "Great Expectations," as containing "Cross Keys Inn"

("_The Castle_," No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip arrived when first visiting London, in accordance with instructions received per _Mr.

Jaggers_.

Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach the well-known establishment of the London Stereoscopic Company, No. 54. It may be interesting to know that this firm possesses the stuffed original of "_Grip_," the Raven, the fortunate bird that received a double pa.s.sport to fame, d.i.c.kens having narrated the particulars of its decease, and Maclise having sketched its apotheosis. This relic, so intimately a.s.sociated with the tale of "Barnaby Rudge," was purchased at the public sale of Mr. d.i.c.kens's effects for 110, and its photographic portrait may be now obtained at this address.

A few steps farther on the same side stands the old Church of St.

Mary-le-Bow, whose bells recalled d.i.c.k Whittington to fame and fortune.

These same bells are mentioned in the history of "Dombey and Son,"

chapter 4, as being within hearing at the offices of that important firm.

Pa.s.sing on, and crossing to the north side of the thoroughfare, we arrive at King Street (turning by No. 92), at the top of which is The Guildhall.

In the City Court attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of promise of marriage, "Bardell _v._ Pickwick," was contested, on which occasion _Mr. Weller_, _senr._, emphatically insisted (from the body of the Court) on Sam's spelling his name with a "we," and afterwards much deplored the absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick's behalf-"Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn't there a alleybi?" Are not all these and other particulars written in the chronicles of the "Pickwick Papers"?-See chapter 34.

Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse direction of the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), we come into the Poultry, at the farther end, pa.s.sing a turning on the left therefrom, known as GROCERS' HALL COURT. It will be remembered that on one occasion when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet gla.s.s of brandy and water, Sam Weller, whose "knowledge of London was extensive and peculiar," led the way from the Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to the last house but one on the same side of the way, where he directed his master to

"Take the box as stands in the first fireplace, 'cos there a'n't no leg in the middle of the table."

In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find that this house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, but it is recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the old-fashioned sort. Mr. Weller, the elder, was here introduced to his son's patron, and thereupon arranged for Mr. Pickwick's journey to Ipswich. At the end of the Poultry we next approach, on the right, The Mansion House, mentioned in "Barnaby Rudge" as the residence of the Mayor of London. We read of this civic potentate in the pages of "The Christmas Carol," when, one Christmas Eve,

"The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the mighty Mansion House, gave orders to his fifty cooks and butlers to keep Christmas as a Lord Mayor's household should."

_Mark Tapley_ also-in America-once made jocose reference to this location. When speaking of Queen Victoria, he informed certain members of the Watertoast a.s.sociation to the following effect:-

"She has lodgings, in virtue of her office, with the Lord Mayor at the Mansion House, but don't often occupy them, in consequence of the parlour chimney smoking."

Messrs. Dombey and Son had their offices in the City, within the sound of Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion House. Their position was probably in proximity to _The Royal Exchange_, but the address cannot be definitely indicated. Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, and schemed for his own aggrandis.e.m.e.nt, regardless of the prosperity of the house.

The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the thriving establishment of the well-known merchant tailors-DOMBEY & SON-will be found at No. 120 _Cheapside_, at which a large and well-conducted business is carried on.

From this point we may conveniently visit "His Lordship's Larder" (at three minutes' distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh, "rest, and be thankful."

RAMBLE III _Charing Cross to Thavies Inn_, _Holborn Circus_

South-Eastern Terminus-Spa Road Station-Jacob's Island; Sykes's last Refuge-Butler's Wharf, formerly Quilp's Wharf-Quilp's House, Tower Hill-Trinity House and Garden; Bella Wilfer's Waiting-place-Southwark Bridge; Little Dorrit's Promenade-The General Post Office-Falcon Hotel, Falcon Square; John Jasper's patronage-Little Britain; Office of Mr.

Jaggers-Smithfield-Newgate Prison; Pip's description in "Great Expectations"-The Old Bailey Criminal Court, as per "Tale of Two Cities"-The Saracen's Head; a.s.sociations with Nicholas Nickleby-Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his Companions-Scene of the Robbery-Line of Route taken by Oliver and "The Artful Dodger" from the Angel to Saffron Hill-Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of Mr.

Fang-Great Saffron Hill and Field Lane-f.a.gin's House and the "Three Cripples"-Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and Clennam; the Plornish Family-Ely Place-Thavies Inn; Mrs. Jellyby's Residence.

From the SOUTH-EASTERN TERMINUS at Charing Cross there are frequent trains by which the Rambler can travel to _Spa Road Station_, _Bermondsey_ (about twenty minutes' ride), from which point the situation of what was once Jacob's Island may be conveniently visited. This place was a.s.sociated with the adventures of _Oliver Twist_, being the last refuge to which _Sykes_, the murderer of _Nancy_, betook himself on his return to London, and where he met a righteous retribution when attempting his escape. It is described by d.i.c.kens-nearly sixty years since-as being

"Near to that part of the Thames on which the church at Rotherhithe abuts, where the buildings on the banks are dirtiest, and the vessels on the river blackest, with the dust of colliers and the smoke of close-built, low-roofed houses. In such a neighbourhood, beyond Dockhead, in the borough of Southwark, stands Jacob's Island, surrounded by a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or twenty wide when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in the days of this story as Folly Ditch."

Arriving at _Spa Road_, the explorer turns left and right by the short routes of _West Street South_, _Fream Street_, and _Rouel Road_, into _Jamaica Road_ (five minutes from station); pa.s.sing from the opposite side of which, through _Parker's Row_ to the thoroughfare of _Dockhead_, he will find himself face to face with a tavern on the north side, named "The Swan and Sugar Loaf." A short cut on the right of this house leads immediately to LONDON STREET, its northern side forming the south boundary of the old site of Jacob's Island. _Folly Ditch_, flowing from the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through London Street (it has been filled in since 1851); and in these streets wooden bridges crossed to the Island, and "crazy wooden galleries, common to the backs of half-a-dozen houses"-referred to by the novelist-used to "ornament the banks of Folly Ditch." To the right we pa.s.s into _George Row_, enclosing Jacob's Island (east), and may note _en pa.s.sant_ the blocks of workmen's dwellings, erected 1883, named "Wolseley's Buildings," which occupy the site of the old Island on its eastern side. From George Row we turn (right) into _Jacob Street_, north of the Island, by which we come into _Mill Street_ (west); again returning to _London Street_, and so completing the circ.u.mnavigation of this interesting locality. Some of the old wooden erections still exist in _Farthing Alley_, _Halfpenny Alley_, and _Edward Street_, which intersect the area. In his preface to the first cheap edition of "Oliver Twist," the author makes a further reference, as follows:-

"In the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, it was publicly declared in London by an amazing alderman, that Jacob's Island did not exist, and never had existed. Jacob's Island continues to exist (like an ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed."

Starting westward from "The Swan and Sugar Loaf," we now proceed through _Thornton Street_, and turn to the right, by one block in the street beyond, into _Queen Street_, which leads directly north to the riverside.

At the end of this street is the locality of Quilp's Wharf and place of business, aforetime described in the pages of "The Old Curiosity Shop":-

"A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in which were a little wooden counting-house, burrowing all awry in the dust as if it had fallen from the clouds, and ploughed into the ground; a few fragments of rusty anchors, several large iron rings, some piles of rotten wood, and two or three heaps of old sheet copper-crumpled, cracked, and battered."

The place has been altogether altered and improved during the last forty years, and is now known as "Butler's Wharf," but the original prototype of Quilp is still remembered by some of the older residents of the neighbourhood.

The westward route being continued by the side of the river, we walk through _Shad Thames_ and _Pickle Herring Street_ (underneath an archway) to _Vine Street_, where is the southern entrance of the _Tower Subway_, by which we may cross below the river to the other side. Emerging near the Tower, Quilp's House, on Tower Hill, is near at hand. No. 6 Tower Dock, facing the public entrance to the Tower, is said to have comprised the lodging a.s.signed by d.i.c.kens for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs.

Daniel Quilp and Mrs. Jiniwin. We may here recall the matrons'

tea-meeting, as described in chapter 4 of "The Old Curiosity Shop," when Quilp's conduct as a husband was freely discussed, and much good advice tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the true a.s.sertion of her rights and dignity.

Also the notable occasion when, the master of the house being missing and thought to be drowned, _Mr. Sampson Bra.s.s_ was in consultation, and the party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a descriptive advertis.e.m.e.nt, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf, as lively and sarcastic as ever.

"A question now arises with regard to his nose. 'Flat,' said Mrs.

Jiniwin. 'Aquiline!' cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and striking the feature with his fist. 'Aquiline, you hag. Do you see it? Do you call this flat? Do you? Eh?'"

Hard by this locality stands Trinity House, Tower Hill, with its garden in front, and it may be remembered that _Mr. Wilfer_ suggested this neighbourhood as a waiting-place for Bella, on the occasion of their "innocent elopement" to Greenwich, while he should array himself in new garments at her expense, to do honour to the expedition. We now turn westward by _Tower Street_, and may save time by taking train at _Mark Lane Station_ for the Mansion House, about ten minutes' ride. On arrival at the Mansion House Station we shall find _Queen Street_ close at hand, leading riverwards to Southwark Bridge, referred to in "Little Dorrit" as the Iron Bridge. This was Amy Dorrit's favourite promenade, it being quieter than many of the neighbouring thoroughfares; and we may recall the scene when young _John Chivery_ was obliged to take no for an answer, when he attempted the proffer of his hand and heart.

Proceeding onwards through _Cannon Street_, we turn to the right through _St. Paul's Churchyard_, crossing Cheapside to the stately edifice of the General Post Office, _St. Martin's-le-Grand_. This building, in the times of "Nicholas Nickleby," occasioned honest John Browdie some surprise:-

"Wa-at dost thee tak' yon place to be, noo, that 'un ower the wa'?

Ye'd never coom near it, gin ye thried for twolve moonths. It's na but a Poast-office. Ho, ho! they need to charge for double latthers.

A Poast-office! What dost thee think of that? Ecod, if that's on'y a Poast-office, loike to see where the Lord Mayor o' Lunnon lives!"

_Aldersgate Street_ leads northward from St. Martin's-le-Grand; pa.s.sing the first block in which, _Falcon Street_ turns on the right (No. 16) towards _Falcon Square_, a small city piazza, where may be found (No. 8) The Falcon Hotel. This is the place at which John Jasper sojourned when visiting London. In "The Mystery of Edwin Drood" we read the following commendation of the house in question:-

"It is hotel, boarding-house, or lodging-house at its visitor's option. It announces itself, in the new Railway advertisers, as a novel enterprise, timidly beginning to spring up. It bashfully, almost apologetically, gives the traveller to understand that it does not expect him, on the good old const.i.tutional hotel plan, to order a pint of sweet blacking for his drinking, and throw it away; but insinuates that he may have his boots blacked instead of his stomach, and may also have bed, breakfast, attendance, and a porter up all night, for a certain fixed charge."

Returning to Aldersgate Street, we shall find that the opposite turning, leading to Smithfield, is _Little Britain_. In "Great Expectations" we learn that the Offices of Mr. Jaggers, the Old Bailey lawyer, were here situated, in near proximity to Bartholomew Close; but the house cannot be precisely indicated. Here _Mr. Wemmick_ a.s.sisted his Princ.i.p.al in the details of his professional business. He may be remembered as having a decided preference for "portable property."

Proceeding onward by _Duke Street_, the visitor will shortly come into Smithfield, a locality which is considerably changed since the days when Pip first arrived in London. He says-

"When I told the clerk that I would take a turn in the air while I waited, he advised me to go round the corner and I should come into Smithfield. So I came into Smithfield; and the shameful place, being all asmear with filth, and fat, and blood, and foam, seemed to stick to me. So, I rubbed it off with all possible speed by turning into a street where I saw the great black dome of Saint Paul's bulging at me from behind a grim stone building which a bystander said was Newgate Prison."

Adopting the same line of route, the Rambler may pa.s.s the south front of the Metropolitan Meat Market, turning to the left by St. Bartholomew's Hospital into _Giltspur Street_, which leads to Newgate Street, and faces on the opposite corner of Old Bailey Newgate Prison. In "Great Expectations," Pip describes his visit to the interior, at the invitation and in the company of Mr. Wemmick:-