Rambles in Dickens' Land Part 5

"We pa.s.sed through the Lodge, where some fetters were hanging up, on the bare walls among the prison rules, into the interior of the jail.

At that time jails were much neglected, and the period of exaggerated reaction consequent on all public wrong-doing-and which is always its longest and heaviest punishment-was still far off. So, felons were not lodged and fed better than soldiers (to say nothing of paupers), and seldom set fire to their prisons with the excusable object of improving the flavour of their soup. It was visiting-time when Wemmick took me in, and a potman was going his rounds with beer, and the prisoners behind bars in yards were buying beer and talking to friends; and a frowsy, ugly, disorderly, depressing scene it was."

Again, it may be remarked that things have much improved since the good old days. _Inter alia_, the principles and rules of prison management and discipline have greatly changed for the better.

In the tale of "Barnaby Rudge" is the narrative of the burning of Newgate and the liberation of the prisoners by the rioters (1780), on which occasion it will be remembered that our old friend Gabriel Varden was somewhat roughly handled. For full particulars, see chapter 64.

Immediately south of Newgate is the adjacent Central Criminal Court of The Old Bailey, the scene of Charles Darnay's trial in "The Tale of Two Cities." At the time there described (1775)-

"The Old Bailey was famous as a kind of deadly Inn yard, from which pale travellers set out continually, in carts and coaches, on a violent pa.s.sage to the other world, traversing some two miles and a half of public street and road, and shaming few good citizens, if any. So powerful is use, and so desirable to be good use in the beginning. It was famous, too, for the pillory, a wise old inst.i.tution, that inflicted a punishment of which no one could foresee the extent; also for the whipping-post, another dear old inst.i.tution, very humanising and softening to behold in action; also for extensive transactions in blood-money, another fragment of ancestral wisdom."

Facing eastward from Newgate Street is the _Holborn Viaduct_, which has for many years superseded the old ascending and descending road of Holborn Hill.

The Saracen's Head, the old coaching-house on Snow Hill, with which we have been familiar from the days of "Nicholas Nickleby," as the headquarters of Mr. Squeers, has disappeared since 1868, having been pulled down long ago, with many other buildings of this neighbourhood, giving room to the great improvements which have taken place in this part of London. Hereabouts it stood, on a lower level, not far from St.

Sepulchre's Church-

"Just on that particular part of Snow Hill where omnibus horses going eastward seriously think of falling down on purpose, and horses in hackney cabriolets going westward not unfrequently fall by accident."

The present _Police Station_, Snow Hill, stands on part of the site formerly occupied by this old hostelry.

This modern thoroughfare of Snow Hill commences at the first turning on the right, in which has been erected a commodious hotel of the same name (No. 10), where, by the aid of a little refreshment and a slight exercise of imagination, we may recall the departure of Nicholas for Dotheboy's Hall, Greta Bridge, by the Yorkshire coach, with Mr. Squeers and the pupils; also the later arrival in London of Mr. and Mrs. Browdie, accompanied by the lovely f.a.n.n.y as bridesmaid, and the first meeting of Nicholas with Frank Cheeryble, newly returned from Continental travel.

Snow Hill leads to the lower level of _Farringdon Road_, at a point immediately north of the Holborn Viaduct spanning the thoroughfare, in which, turning to the right, we walk onwards to the intersection of _Clerkenwell Road_ (eight minutes' work). On the right hand, across the railway, is Clerkenwell Green, referred to in "Oliver Twist" as

"That open square in Clerkenwell which is yet called by some strange perversion of terms The Green."

It was near this place that little Oliver became enlightened as to the business of Charley Bates and the Artful Dodger. We read that the boys, traversing a narrow court in this neighbourhood, came out opposite a bookstall, where Mr. Brownlow was reading, abstracted from all other mundane considerations, so affording "a prime plant" for the operations of these light-fingered gentlemen. This court leads from the road opposite the Sessions House into _Pear Tree Court_, giving into the main road at some distance beyond, at which the scene above referred to was enacted.

Walking onwards by the _King's Cross Road_ we soon come to the point where _Exmouth Street_ joins it from the east, facing the south-east angle of the House of Correction. Here we strike into the route taken by Oliver Twist when he first came from Barnet to London, under the escort of _Mr. John Dawkins_. The text of the story is as follows:-

"They crossed from the 'Angel' into St. John's Road, struck down the small street which terminates at Sadler's Wells Theatre, through Exmouth Street and Coppice Row, down the little court by the side of the Workhouse, across the cla.s.sic ground which once bore the name of Hockley-in-the-Hole, thence into Little Saffron Hill, and so into Saffron Hill the Great."

Following the line thus indicated from Exmouth Street, we come on the south side of the Workhouse, nearly opposite Little Saffron Hill, which leads into _Great Saffron Hill_ as above. Crossing _Clerkenwell Road_, and proceeding for a short distance down Great Saffron Hill, we arrive at the cross street of _Hatton Wall_, in which, past two doors to the left on the south side, will be found-between the _Hat and Tun Inn_ and No. 17 beyond-the entrance of HATTON YARD, a long narrow lane or mews (leading to _Kirby Street_), occupied by carmen and stabling. In this eligible position was situated, some fifty years since, "the very notorious Metropolitan Police Court" to which Oliver Twist was taken on the charge of theft; and we may here recall the administration of the presiding magistrate, the notable Mr. Fang, as shown in the examination of the prisoner.

The premises (No. 9, on the left) once formed part and parcel of the police court referred to; but the arrangements of the neighbourhood have been subjected to much alteration during the last half century. Mr.

Forster states that d.i.c.kens "had himself a satisfaction in admitting the ident.i.ty of Mr. Fang, in 'Oliver Twist,' with Mr. Laing of Hatton Garden." In a letter (now in possession of Mr. S. R. Goodman, of Brighton) written to Mr. Haines, Reporter, June 3rd, 1838, d.i.c.kens writes as follows:-

"In my next number of 'Oliver Twist' I must have a magistrate; and, casting about for a magistrate whose harshness and insolence would render him a fit subject to be _shown up_, I have as a necessary consequence stumbled upon Mr. Laing of Hatton Garden celebrity. I know the man's character perfectly well; but as it would be necessary to describe his personal appearance also, I ought to have seen him, which (fortunately or unfortunately as the case may be) I have never done. In this dilemma it occurred to me that perhaps I might under your auspices be smuggled into the Hatton Garden office for a few moments some morning. If you can further my object I shall be really very greatly obliged to you."

"The opportunity was found; the magistrate was brought up before the novelist; and shortly after, on some fresh outbreak of intolerable temper, the Home Secretary found it an easy and popular step to remove Mr. Laing from the Bench."

Returning to GREAT SAFFRON HILL, we may recall its description as given in the days of "Oliver Twist"-

"The street was very narrow and muddy, and the air was impregnated with filthy odours. The sole places that seemed to prosper amid the general blight of the place were the public-houses, and in them the lowest orders of the Irish were wrangling with might and main.

Covered ways and yards, which here and there diverged from the main street, disclosed little knots of houses where drunken men and women were positively wallowing in filth."

Field Lane, in the immediate vicinity, _was_

"Near to that spot on which Snow Hill and Holborn Hill meet . . a narrow dismal alley leading to Saffron Hill. In its filthy shops are exposed for sale huge bunches of second-hand silk handkerchiefs of all sizes and patterns, for here reside the traders who purchase them from the pickpockets."

This place has been effaced by the Holborn Valley improvements, and we may now look in vain for the precise locality of the house of _f.a.gin_ the Jew. In this neighbourhood also was situated "The Three Cripples," a public-house of evil repute patronised by Sykes, f.a.gin, and Monks. We may recall the circ.u.mstance of _Mr. Morris Bolter's_ (_alias_ Noah Claypole's) arrival at this house, when he and _Charlotte_ first came to London, and of his subsequent interview with the wily Jew.

It is pleasant to remark that Saffron Hill has greatly improved in its character since the above-quoted description was correct. It now affords accommodation for the headquarters of the _Central s...o...b..acks' Society_ (as established under the auspices of the late Earl of Shaftesbury), and about midway in the street where thieves "did once inhabit," a large _Board School_ is doing good educational service for the elevation of the humbler cla.s.ses.

Turning from Great Saffron Hill westward by the _One Tun_ public-house, we come into _Charles Street_, on the south side of which, towards Hatton Garden, is Bleeding Hart Yard (entrance by the Bleeding Hart Tavern, No.

19). This locality is a.s.sociated with the tale of "Little Dorrit." It will be remembered that here the factory of _Messrs. Doyce and Clennam_ was situated, and here also resided _Mr. and Mrs. Plornish_, the humble friends of the Dorrit family. In these degenerate days the place has much altered, and the amiable _Mr. Casby_ would certainly find it more difficult than ever to collect his weekly dues, even by the agency of his energetic a.s.sistant, Mr. Pancks.

Pa.s.sing from this unpretending locality, we come (at No. 8) into _Hatton Garden_, which leads southward to _Holborn Circus_.

In Hatton Garden, on the east side, can be observed (No. 20) the old-established warehouse of Messrs. Rowland and Son. In this connection there may be remembered the mad old gentleman "in small clothes," who lived next door to the _Nicklebys_, at Bow. On the only occasion of his visiting the family indoors, he incidentally referred to "Mrs. Rowland, who, every morning, bathes in Kalydor for nothing."-See "Nicholas Nickleby," chapter 49.

Mr. Waterbrook's establishment, situated in _Ely Place_, _Holborn_, is ent.i.tled to pa.s.sing mention as the place where David and his friend Traddles met each other for the first time after their schoolboy days, on the occasion of a dinner-party, at which also _Agnes Wickfield_ and _Uriah Heep_ attended. Ely Place is situated on the north side of HOLBORN CIRCUS, and once comprised the rose garden of the Bishop of Ely, afterwards leased to Sir Christopher Hatton.

On the opposite side of the Circus, and near to St. Andrew's Church, is situated Thavies Inn, in which _Mrs. Jellyby_ and family resided, in the days when her daughter _Caddy_ acted as amanuensis _in re_ the affairs of Borrioboola-Gha.

It is described in "Bleak House" as being

"A narrow street of high houses like an oblong cistern to hold the fog."

The house No. 13, on the right, has been indicated as once the disorderly residence of the Jellyby family. We may recollect it as the place where _Esther Summerson_ and _Ada_ were accommodated for their first night in London, on which occasion little unfortunate _Peepy_ was found with his head between the area railings, and the house generally turned upside down; while Mrs. Jellyby serenely dictated her correspondence in the family sitting-room, altogether oblivious of such minor domestic accidents.

Esther thus narrates her first impressions:-

"Mrs. Jellyby had very good hair, but was too much occupied with her African duties to brush it. The shawl in which she had been loosely m.u.f.fled dropped on to her chair, when she advanced towards us; and, as she turned to resume her seat, we could not help noticing that her dress didn't nearly meet up the back, and that the open s.p.a.ce was railed across with a lattice work of staylace-like a summer house. .

. . 'You find me, my dears,' said Mrs. Jellyby, 'as usual, very busy; but that you will excuse. The African project at present employs my whole time... . We hope by this time next year to have from a hundred and fifty to two hundred healthy families cultivating coffee and educating the natives of Borrioboola-Gha, on the left bank of the Niger."-See "Bleak House," chapter 4.

_The Buffet of Messrs. Spiers and Pond_ will be found a short distance eastward from Holborn Circus, on the right, next the terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover railway. A visit to its welcome "contiguity of shade" is confidently recommended to those who may be disposed for necessary rest and refreshment.

RAMBLE IV _Holborn Circus to Tottenham Court Road_

Langdale's Distillery-Barnard's Inn; Pip's Chambers-Furnival's Inn; d.i.c.kens's and John Westlock's Apartments-Staple Inn; Mr. Grewgious's Chambers, P.J.T.; Rooms of Neville Landless and Mr. Tartar; "The Magic Bean-Stalk Country"-Gray's Inn; Mr. and Mrs. Traddles and "the girls;"

Offices of Mr. Perker-The Bull Inn; Scene of Lewsome's Illness-Kingsgate Street; Poll Sweedlepipe's Shop; Sairey Gamp's Apartments-Mrs.

Billickin's Lodgings in Southampton Street; Miss Twinkleton and Rosa Budd-Bloomsbury Square; Lord Mansfield's Residence-Queen Square-The Children's Hospital; Johnny's Will-Foundling Hospital; "No Thoroughfare;"

Walter Wilding-"The Boot Tavern"-No. 48 Doughty Street-Tavistock House, Tavistock Square-Mrs. d.i.c.kens's Establishment, No. 4 Gower Street, North; Mrs. Wilfer's Doorplate-No. 1 Devonshire Terrace-Mr. Merdle's House, Harley Street-Mr. Dombey's House-Madame Mantalini's, Wigmore Street-Wimpole Street; Mr. Boffin's West-end Residence-Welbeck Street; Lord George Gordon's Residence-Brook Street, Claridge's Hotel; Mr.

Dorrit's Return-Devonshire House; Guild of Literature and Art-Hatchett's Hotel; White Horse Cellars; Mr. Guppy in attendance-193 Piccadilly; Messrs. Chapman and Hall-Golden Square; Ralph Nickleby's Office-Apartments of the Kenwigs family-The Crown Inn-"Martha's"

Lodgings-Newman Street; Mr. Turveydrop's Academy-Carlisle House; Doctor Manette and Lucie.

From HOLBORN CIRCUS the Rambler now proceeds westward by the main thoroughfare of _Holborn_, pa.s.sing _Fetter Lane_ on the left, and arrives at (No. 26) the old premises, now partially rebuilt, formerly Langdale's Distillery. Half of the same remains (at the moment), but will shortly be superseded by a modern building. The eastern portion is occupied by Messrs. Buchanan, whisky merchants, who have recently purchased the premises. This establishment was sacked (1780) by the Gordon rioters.

Mr. Langdale being a Catholic, was obnoxious to the No-Popery mob; and the stores of liquor at this distillery afforded an additional temptation for the attack. The terrible scenes enacted on the occasion are powerfully described in "Barnaby Rudge," chapters 67 and 68-

"At this place a large detachment of soldiery were posted, who fired, now up Fleet Market, now up Holborn, now up Snow Hill-constantly raking the streets in each direction. At this place too, several large fires were burning, so that all the terrors of that terrible night seemed to be concentrated in one spot.

"Full twenty times, the rioters, headed by one man who wielded an axe in his right hand, and bestrode a brewer's horse of great size and strength, caparisoned with fetters taken out of Newgate, which clanked and jingled as he went, made an attempt to force a pa.s.sage at this point, and fire the vintner's house. Full twenty times they were repulsed with loss of life, and still came back again; and though the fellow at their head was marked and singled out by all, and was a conspicuous object as the only rioter on horseback, not a man could hit him... .

"The vintner's house, with half-a-dozen others near at hand, was one great, glowing blaze. All night, no one had essayed to quench the flames, or stop their progress; but now a body of soldiers were actively engaged in pulling down two old wooden houses, which were every moment in danger of taking fire, and which could scarcely fail, if they were left to burn, to extend the conflagration immensely.