Rambles in Dickens' Land Part 3

"A little, pale, wall-eyed, woebegone inn, like a large dust-bin of two compartments and a sifter. It looks as if Symond were a sparing man in his day, and constructed his inn of old building materials, which took kindly to the dry rot, and to dirt, and all things decaying and dismal, and perpetuated Symond's memory with congenial shabbiness."

This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position being now occupied by a large printer's establishment and other offices. Readers of "Bleak House" will remember that the professional chambers of _Mr.

Vholes_ were here situated, and that _Richard Carstone_ and his young wife _Ada_ resided in the next house, in order that Richard might have his legal adviser close at hand. Here occurred the early death of poor Richard; and we all cherish the remembrance of dear Ada's wifely devotion, to which _Esther Summerson_ thus refers:-

"The days when I frequented that miserable corner which my dear girl brightened can never fade in my remembrance. I never see it, and I never wish to see it now; I have been there only once since; but in my memory there is a mournful glory shining on the place, which will shine for ever."

Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we reach Bell Yard, leading to Fleet Street. This place has been mentioned by d.i.c.kens as containing a "chandler's shop, left-hand side," where lodged _Gridley_, "the man from Shropshire," and _Neckett_, the faithful servitor of Coavinses. The name-Bell Yard-forms the heading of chapter 15, "Bleak House," which affords information of the Neckett family-_Charlie_, _Tom_, and the limp-bonneted _baby_. For full details, reference should be made to this very touching and beautifully-written chapter as above. Great alterations have been made, and are still being made, in this narrow lane, since the erection of the New Law Courts in the immediate vicinity; but some of the older houses still remain on the left-hand side of the way. Of these, No. 9 is a small, tall, squeezed-looking house, about half-way down the alley, and may be safely a.s.signed (thirty years since) to the tenancy of the good-natured Mrs.

Blinder.

Pa.s.sing through Bell Yard, we reach _Fleet Street_, at the point where once TEMPLE BAR gave ancient entrance to the City. Its position is marked by a bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath.

Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern erection of _Child's Bank_. This new building dates from 1878, when the structure of old _Temple Bar_ was removed. It replaces one of the very old-fashioned houses of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child carried on their important banking business. This house is spoken of by d.i.c.kens, in his "Tale of Two Cities," as Tellson's Bank, on the outside of which the mysterious _Mr. Cruncher_ was usually in attendance as "odd-job man, and occasional porter and messenger."

"Tellson's Bank, by Temple Bar, was an old-fashioned place even in the year 1780. It was very small, very dark, very ugly, very incommodious. Any one of the partners would have disinherited his son on the question of rebuilding Tellson's. Thus it had come to pa.s.s that Tellson's was the triumphant perfection of inconvenience.

After bursting open a door of idiotic obstinacy with a weak rattle in its throat, you fell into Tellson's, down two steps, and came to your senses in a miserable little shop, with two little counters; where the oldest of men made your cheque shake as if the wind rustled it, while they examined the signature by the dingiest of windows, which were always under a shower-bath of mud from Fleet Street, and which were made the dingier by their own iron bars proper and the shadow of Temple Bar."

[Picture: Fountain Court, Temple]

Pa.s.sing Newton's (optician) we arrive at the outer Gate of the Temple, by which we enter _Middle Temple Lane_, following which a short distance and turning to the right, by _Middle Temple Hall_, we reach Fountain Court.

The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a central position, is a.s.sociated with the history of _Ruth Pinch_. Here it was that Tom and his sister made appointments for meeting-

"Because, of course, when she had to wait a minute or two, it would have been very awkward for her to have had to wait in any but a quiet spot; and that was as quiet a spot, everything considered, as they could choose."

On further reference to the pages of "Martin Chuzzlewit," we may recall the auspicious occasion when Ruth was under the special escort of _John Westlock_-

"Brilliantly the Temple fountain sparkled in the sun, and merrily the idle drops of water danced and danced; and, peeping out in sport among the trees, plunged lightly down to hide themselves, as little Ruth and her companion came towards it."

See chapter 53. In Garden Court beyond, _Mr. Pip_ and his friend, _Herbert Pocket_, had residence. In "Great Expectations," he says-

"Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by the river. We lived at the top of the last house."

Here Pip's patron and benefactor, the convict _Magwitch_, _alias Provis_, disclosed himself one memorable night, much to his "dear boy's"

discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary accommodation was found for him at

"A lodging-house in Ess.e.x Street, the back of which looked into the Temple, and was almost within hail of 'Pip's' windows."

The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may look in vain for the actual chambers specified. Returning to _Middle Temple Lane_, the visitor may walk directly across it to _Elm Court_, and proceed through the same and a narrow pa.s.sage beyond, turning to the left, through _The Cloisters_, which (left again) give into the central location of Pump Court, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices, four storeys high.

Here, in all probability, were situated THE CHAMBERS where _Tom Pinch_ was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer, by the eccentric _Mr. Fips_.

"He led the way through sundry lanes and courts, into one more quiet and gloomy than the rest; and, singling out a certain house, ascended a common staircase ... stopping before a door upon an upper storey.

... There were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer one, a narrow staircase leading to two more above."

Here, also, old _Martin Chuzzlewit_ revealed himself to the astonished Tom in his true character, and surprised the virtuous _Mr. Pecksniff_ by a "warm reception," when "the tables were turned completely upside down."-See "Chuzzlewit," chapters 39 and 52.

Proceeding past _Lamb Buildings_, on the east side of the Cloisters, and by a pa.s.sage six steps downwards, leading beneath the _Inner Temple Dining-Hall_, we may note across the road (right) a short range of substantial houses, known as Paper Buildings, facing _King's Bench Walk_, where it will be remembered that _Sir John Chester_ had his residential chambers, no doubt selecting a central position-say, at No. 3. Here at various times Mr. Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappert.i.t, and Gabriel Varden had audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which "overhaul the wollume"-"Barnaby Rudge."

In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of _Mr. Stryver_, _K.C._, where _Sydney Carton_ served as "jackal" to that "fellow of delicacy;" as we read in "The Tale of Two Cities," how Sydney

"Having revived himself by twice pacing the pavements of King's Bench Walk and Paper Buildings, turned into the Stryver Chambers."

Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and pa.s.sing in front of the Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith's Buildings (right), which overlook the old burial-ground and the tomb of the doctor. This surely is the "dismal churchyard" referred to in "Our Mutual Friend" as being closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn.

"Whosoever ... had looked up at the dismal windows commanding that churchyard, until at the most dismal window of them all, he saw a dismal boy, would in him have beheld ... the clerk of Mr. Mortimer Lightwood."

_N.B._-Note the last window on the left (second floor), nearest the west wing, lately rebuilt.

Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner Temple Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circ.u.mstance of Bradley Headstone's nightly watchings opposite this point for the outgoings of _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_, and the many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as Eugene enjoyed "the pleasures of the chase" at the expense of his unfortunate rival.

Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is Clifford's Inn Pa.s.sage, into whose retirement _Mr. Rokesmith_, the hero of "Our Mutual Friend," withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with _Mr. Boffin_, when offering that gentleman his services as secretary.

Close at hand stands St. Dunstan's Church, near to which the pump was, but is not, from whose refreshing streams "_Hugh_" (from the Maypole, Chigwell) sobered himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to visiting Sir John Chester at Paper Buildings. (_Vide_ "Barnaby Rudge,"

chapter 40.) The old pump has been replaced by a drinking-fountain.

_Toby Veck_ surely must have known that pump; for though there is no precise location given by d.i.c.kens in "The Chimes" for the church near to which Toby waited for jobs, there is an etching by Stanfield in the original edition of that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the counterfeit presentment of St. Dunstan's Tower.

Continuing the route, we pa.s.s _Bouverie Street_ (Bradbury and Evans-now Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.-in this street were the publishers of several of the works of d.i.c.kens, "The Chimes" included) on the right, next arriving at _Whitefriars' Street_ on the same side.

At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public Office of "The Daily News." This influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under the supervision of Charles d.i.c.kens, and in the earlier numbers of the journal were published instalments of his "Pictures from Italy." d.i.c.kens shortly relinquished the editorship, being succeeded by his friends Jerrold and Forster. The fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the study of general or party politics; but he always identified himself with "the People-spelt with a large P, who are governed," rather than "the people-spelt with a small p, who govern."

A short distance down Whitefriars' Street is a pa.s.sage (left) from which, at a right angle riverwards, we may look into Hanging Sword Alley, where Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, messenger at Tellson's, had his two apartments.

These "were very decently kept" by his wife, whose "flopping"

proclivities gave so much umbrage to Jerry.

On the opposite side of Fleet Street-No. 146-just beyond, we turn (left) into _Wine Office Court_, and, on the right, we arrive at "Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese." In "The Tale of Two Cities," Book 2, chapter 4, we read that _Charles Darnay_, being acquitted of the charge of high treason, on his trial at the Old Bailey, was persuaded by the young lawyer, _Sydney Carton_, to dine in his company thereafter:-

"Drawing his arm through his own, he took him down Ludgate Hill to Fleet Street, and so up a covered way into a tavern."

This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a noted resort with literary and legal men for more than a century past. Here Doctor Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently dined together in days gone by, gravely discoursing over their punch afterwards; and, in more recent years, Thackeray, d.i.c.kens, Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned among the customary guests of the establishment. Mr. George Augustus Sala, in a pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:-

"Let it be noted in candour that Law finds its way to the 'Cheese' as well as Literature; but the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant, and, consequently, harmless order. Literary men who have been called to the Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do not object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to Judge Blackstone when he wrote his 'Commentaries')-these make up the legal element of the 'Cheese.'"

The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor attains _Ludgate Circus_, from which _Farringdon Street_ leads northward on the left. A short detour along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge of the Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of _Farringdon Market_ on the left side. Its position will recall the description given in "Barnaby Rudge," in whose days it was known as Fleet Market,

"At that time a long irregular row of wooden sheds and penthouses occupying the centre of what is now called Farringdon Street... .

It was indispensable to most public conveniences in those days that they should be public nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained the principle to admiration."

Here the rioters a.s.sembled-as narrated in the book before mentioned-and pa.s.sed a merry night in the midst of congenial surroundings. Retracing our steps, we may note, on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site of the old Fleet Prison, on a part of which now stands the CONGREGATIONAL MEMORIAL HALL. The prison-fifty years since-stretched eastward in the rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Ca.s.sell and Co., Belle Sauvage Yard. Its last remaining walls were removed in 1872, when the foundation-stone of the "Memorial Hall" aforesaid was laid. Here was imprisoned our amiable friend _Mr. Pickwick_, attended by his faithful Sam, until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in _re_ Bardell _versus_ Pickwick were by him fully paid and satisfied.

Proceeding up _Ludgate Hill_, we may soon note the Belle Sauvage Yard (turning by No. 68, on the left). The old inn, with its central metropolitan coach-yard, sixty years since occupied this site, where now the extensive printing and publishing offices of Ca.s.sell and Co. hold benignant sway. The place is referred to in an anecdote of _Sam Weller's_ anent the preparation of his father's marriage licence, as arranged at Doctors' Commons, the place being evidently regarded by that respected coachman as his parochial headquarters in London-

"'What is your name, sir?' says the lawyer. 'Tony Weller,' says my father. 'Parish?' says the lawyer. 'Belle Savage,' says my father; for he stopped there when he drove up, and he know'd nothing about parishes, _he_ didn't."

The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its olden style.

In Mr. Weller's time it comprised two courts, the outer one being approached from Ludgate Hill by the present entrance, and the Belle Sauvage Inn forming a second quadrangle, with an archway about half-way up from the main entrance. In this interior court was the coach-yard, surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the fashion of the times.

Pa.s.sing onwards on the same side, past _Old Bailey_, we arrive at the site of the London Coffee Tavern, No. 46 Ludgate Hill, now occupied by the corner shop of Messrs. Hope Brothers, the well-known outfitters. The old house was pulled down in 1872. Here _Mr. Arthur Clennam_ rested awhile on his arrival "from Ma.r.s.eilles by way of Dover, and by Dover coach, 'the Blue-Eyed Maid,'" one dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in chapter 3 of "Little Dorrit." We now soon come to St. Paul's Churchyard, facing the dial by which _Ralph Nickleby_ corrected his watch on his way to the London Tavern, no doubt "stepping aside" into No.

1-Dakin's-"doorway" to do it; and we may probably be disposed to endorse _John Browdie's_ verdict with reference to St. Paul's Cathedral itself.

"See there, la.s.s, there be Paul's Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he be." This locality is also mentioned in "Barnaby Rudge" as being in the line of road taken by _Lord George Gordon_ when entering London with his friends _en route_ for his residence in Welbeck Street. On the right, within a short distance, we come to Dean's Court, formerly DOCTORS'

COMMONS. This place is referred to by _Sam Weller_ as being in