Ocean to Ocean on Horseback Part 25

My host, Pullman by name, had recently returned from the Pacific coast and to my eager inquiries was able to tell me much about the country between Omaha and Sacramento.

At night, after having made twenty-one miles, I reached this place and was domiciled with the family of Mrs. Charlotte Bills, who came formerly from Jefferson County, New York. As my native county of Saint Lawrence adjoins Jefferson, the Bills and I had a lively talk on "Old York State," and I became much interested in the work of this enterprising woman and her family.

Mrs. Bills has succeeded in a direction which has not generally been attempted by women; this is the management of a farm. She does a good business and supports herself and children by raising corn for which, in this stock-raising locality, she finds a ready market. The corn is generally bought for hog feed and as these animals quickly fatten upon it, it is profitable. The practical rather than the romantic has place with these Western people who are striving for a livelihood. Each day gave me new ideas of people and their occupations--but this woman-farmer was something unusual and certainly very praiseworthy.

One Hundred and Fortieth Day.

_Milan House_, MILAN, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-eighth_.

Mounted my horse at eight o'clock and by easy riding reached a farm house in Rock River Bottom, where I pa.s.sed the noon hour. After dinner I made good time as the weather had changed and become cold, reminding me of the necessity of hurrying on if I would avoid the deep snows which the traveller is sure to encounter in the elevated regions farther west and it was every day more evident that I could not well afford to allow my lecture appointments to conflict with the dispatch of my journey.

[Ill.u.s.tration: AN ILLINOIS VILLAGE.]

On starting from Genesseo in the morning it was my intention to make Moline the evening objective, but I was compelled to halt at Milan--twenty miles from the morning starting-point--where the bridge was torn up that crossed Rock River at this point. Being delayed, I sent a note forward to Davenport informing Babc.o.c.k that I would cross the Mississippi the following afternoon at three o'clock; in the meantime waiting, with what patience I could muster, for the bridge work to proceed.

CHAPTER XXI.

FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT.

I left the Milan House at two P. M., _Paul_ being eager for the start.

Before proceeding far I dismounted and ran ahead leaving him to follow me if he would. I ran over two or three small hills and the faithful animal broke into a gallop and was soon by my side mutely inviting me to remount. About four o'clock we crossed the Mississippi on the fine Government Bridge which unites Rock Island and Davenport, and proceeded to the Burtis House--since named the Kimball. Colonel P. A. J. Russell was one of the first to greet me. Moore's Hall having been engaged for my lecture, I spoke at the usual hour to a large audience, to whom General Sanders introduced me. The local band in full uniform volunteered their services for the occasion. The lecture was a financial success.

The next three days were occupied in making my acquaintance with the city. It is only fifty years ago that the first cabin was erected here by white men. By the side of the great river a bluff rises gradually to an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet, and on its side and at its base the city of Davenport is built. Over a bluff we come upon a beautiful rolling prairie, and back as far as Duck Creek the land is covered with fruit, vegetable and flower gardens, and presents a picture of uncommon beauty. Views of the Mississippi are obtained from the summit of the bluff; also of Rock Island a.r.s.enal and Rock Island City on the opposite sh.o.r.e of the river.

In 1832, General Winfield Scott made a treaty with the Indians of the Sac tribe for the purchase by the United States of the land occupied by them bordering on the west side of the river. The city of Davenport was named after Colonel George Davenport, the first white settler. Antoine Le Claire was the first to own land in Davenport. His mother was the daughter of a Pottawatomie chief and his father a French Canadian. At this time the Northwest territory was peopled entirely by Indians, with here and there one of a different race fearless enough to brave the dangers of a frontier life. Le Claire purchased the claim upon which the city of Davenport was laid out for one hundred and fifty dollars. In 1835, he sold it to a company who commenced the building of the city.

The first ferry between Davenport and Rock Island dates from 1835. It was a flatboat propelled by oars. At present a large steamboat is constantly employed in transferring pa.s.sengers and freight between these cities. The river is about a mile in width at this point.

Davenport excels all the other cities of the State in the beauty and advantages of its location. The view from the hill-tops is scarcely to be equalled for picturesqueness by anything I saw during my journey.

The city has made great and rapid progress in its industries, wealth and population. The education of the young is well provided for. It has a high school built at a cost of $65,000. Griswold College--Episcopalian-- occupies a very picturesque site, overlooking the river. The Catholic College is in a retired and quiet spot, surrounded by beautifully shaded grounds, the buildings being elegant and commodious. The churches are numerous, every denomination being represented. Grace Church, the protestant Cathedral, is a fine substantial edifice, erected at a cost of $80,000.

The Public Library on Brady street, founded by Mrs. Clarissa Cook, a lady of wealth, is a highly prized and flourishing inst.i.tution. The Academy of Sciences embraces a most valuable and unique collection of rare curiosities, both ancient and modern, among others, relics from the mounds of Iowa and adjoining States, including skulls and skeletons of pre-historic man.

The population of Davenport is now about 20,000. On account of its being built on a declivity the drainage is perfect. It is surrounded by a most fertile country and possesses every element for the growth of a large city.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE ROAD TO THE CHURCH.]

Recrossing the magnificent bridge spanning the river between Davenport and the Illinois sh.o.r.es, I found myself on Rock Island. The Island lies to the north of the city, the latter not being located on the Island but on the mainland of Illinois. Since 1804 the Island proper has been the property of the United States Government, although not occupied until 1812, on the breaking out of the war with England. The surface is very fertile, and coal and limestone are found in large quant.i.ties. It is about three miles long, covering nine hundred and sixty acres. An a.r.s.enal and armory are located here. A fort was erected in 1816, and named Fort Armstrong. It was garrisoned until May, 1836, when it was evacuated. An ordnance depot was established by the Government in 1840.

In 1862, by Act of Congress, the Island was made a United States a.r.s.enal. General Thomas J. Rodman was the first appointed to the command and held the position until his death. In 1869, Congress appropriated $500,000 for a bridge across the Mississippi uniting the Island with the city of Davenport. This fine structure is a railroad and wagon bridge and affords all necessary facilities for the movement of military stores. General Rodman was succeeded in the command of the a.r.s.enal, in 1871, by Colonel D. W. Flagler of the Ordnance Corps, and the Island has become, under his management, the strongest military post on the Mississippi. Substantial quarters for the officers of the garrison and barracks for the soldiers, have been erected, also a bridge connecting the Island with the city of Moline.

Rock Island is connected with Rock Island City on the Illinois sh.o.r.e and with Davenport on the opposite side of the river, and also with Moline on the east side about three miles above Rock Island.

In the spring of 1828, there were only nine white men and their families on the site now occupied by Rock Island City; the Indians of the Sac tribe were much aggrieved by the whites taking possession of their lands while the latter were away on their hunting expeditions. Black Hawk, chief of the tribe, took great offence and protested strongly against it, and as the number of white settlers increased the discontent of the Indians grew stronger. They were urged by the commanding officer of the Island and the Indian agent, Colonel Davenport, to move across to the west side of the river in compliance with their treaty with the United States Government; but Black Hawk refused to move and contended that the Island was his property. The Fox tribe crossed the river and established themselves there. The lands on the Illinois side were now surveyed and sold to the settlers by the Government, but Black Hawk and the Sacs still refused to leave. Depredations were committed by the Indians of which the whites complained, and in 1831 Black Hawk gave notice to the settlers to leave his lands. Some neighboring tribes it was now feared, would unite with the Sacs in an attack on the settlers, who pet.i.tioned the military authorities and the Governor of Illinois to protect them, and in this way what is known as the Black Hawk War originated.

In response to the complaints of the settlers, Governor Reynolds, of Illinois, called out sixteen hundred mounted volunteers and marched them to the Island and General Gaines at Saint Louis proceeded immediately to the scene of action with the Sixth United States Infantry. General Gaines ordered all the settlers to move to the Island, and then invited Black Hawk to talk over the situation. The military and settlers met in the Council House, and Black Hawk, with about one hundred warriors in their war paint, approached and entered and soon commenced shouting in an intimidating manner. It was thought that an attempt at a general ma.s.sacre would be made. An Indian called "The Prophet" raised his voice very high, gesticulating and speaking rapidly in an angry tone as if he desired to excite the warriors to an attack. At length quiet was obtained and General Gaines spoke to Black Hawk, reminding him of the sale of the lands in dispute to the United States Government. Black Hawk and his followers claimed that the lands had never been sold. The treaty was then read and explained to the chief, which seemed to enrage him greatly. Black Hawk shouted: "The white people speak from paper, but the Indian always speaks from the heart." He further said that their lands had not been sold, that the men who signed the treaty had no authority to do so, or to sell their land. And even if it was sold, they were not paid for it. The General said that the Government had a.s.signed him and his people land on the west side of the Mississippi. His only answer was that he would neither leave nor fight and if the whites attempted to drive him off, he would sit down in his wigwam and they might do what they liked with him. General Gaines understood by this that he would defend what he considered his rights.

Preparations for an attack were now made by the commanding officers and Governor Reynolds, and on June 19, 1831, troops were a.s.sembled near the mouth of Rock River. The next morning they moved upon the Indian village. Black Hawk, however, and all his people had left in the night, crossed the Mississippi and were camped a few miles below Rock Island.

Ten days after, the chief presented himself on the Island with twenty-seven warriors and voluntarily signed a treaty of peace with General Gaines and the Governor of Illinois, the latter representing the National Government. The terms of this treaty included a pledge on the part of Black Hawk not to return to the east side of the river or give any more trouble to the white settlers.

In the following winter, Black Hawk refused to keep the treaty any longer and in April, 1832, he and about five hundred of his braves crossed the Mississippi at Burlington and moved up the east bank of the river with his women and children, intending to drive out the settlers and return to their old village on the Island. The Winnebagoes and other Indians were to have a.s.sisted him in recovering the land. This news soon reached Saint Louis and Colonel Atkinson with a body of infantry left that city for Rock Island. Zachary Taylor, afterwards President of the United States, was in command of a company, and Lieutenant Jefferson Davis, afterwards President of the Confederate States, was attached to the same regiment throughout this campaign.

About two thousand volunteers were brought forward by Governor Reynolds of Illinois, a.s.sembling at Beardstown and marching to Yellow Banks, fifty miles below Rock Island. They moved to the mouth of Rock River where they were joined by Colonel Atkinson and his regulars. The volunteers were under the command of General Whiteside, and Abraham Lincoln, afterwards President of the United States, served under him as captain of a company. The Indians had ascended Rock River and halted opposite Rock Island, the women and children having been sent higher up the river in canoes. Black Hawk now made an attempt to capture Fort Armstrong. He crossed to the Island with his warriors in the night, but a violent storm arising interfered with his plans that night, and in the morning Colonel Atkinson's Infantry arrived and drove them from the Island. They followed their women up Rock River, pursued by Colonel Atkinson and the volunteers under General Whiteside.

Nearly the whole of Black Hawk's band was destroyed in the following months of May, June, July and August, and Black Hawk himself was captured and removed as a prisoner to the Island. He and his son Seoskuk, and other chiefs, were afterwards taken to Washington and other eastern cities. On his return from his eastern tour, Black Hawk settled down with a remnant of his own tribe on Des Moines River, where he died in 1838.

The Sacs and Foxes are believed to have originally come from the vicinity of Montreal, Canada, about the year 1700, and had lived on or near, Rock Island over one hundred and thirty years. After the close of the "Black Hawk War" there were no hostilities with the Indians at Rock Island.

During the late Civil War the Island was converted into a military prison and upwards of 12,000 Confederate prisoners were confined here.

About 2,000 died and were buried on the Island.

A pleasant day may be pa.s.sed in wandering over the Island, which is now an important United States a.r.s.enal for the Mississippi Valley.

Rock Island City is situated on the mainland on the Illinois bank of the river. East of the city, stretching away to Rock River, are some picturesque bluffs and scenery of great beauty. On the sides of the hills are many comfortable residences of well-to-do citizens. The city is about midway between Saint Louis and Saint Paul, and immediately opposite the larger city of Davenport, Iowa. The iron bridge owned by the United States Government and connecting the two cities is open to the public free of toll.

The water power produced by the rapids has largely contributed to the growth of Rock Island City, and also of Moline--a city of factories--within an easy walk of its neighbor. In the latter I found many establishments for the manufacture of plows, cultivators and other farming appliances; also wagons and carriages, together with foundries and machine shops.

Rock Island City has a commerce and trade second to no city of its size in the Union. The centre of a system of railroads, the city has a busy aspect at all times. The population at the time of my visit was about 16,000.

Three miles from Rock Island City, inland, is a resort frequented by the residents of both sides of the river. Its traditions and a.s.sociations are romantic. It is known as _Black Hawk's Watch Tower_. The _tower_ consists of a rock and is the summit of the highest hill, overlooking Rock River and affording an extensive picture of the surrounding country. The rock derives its name from its having been used by Black Hawk as a point from which he could survey his lands for many miles.

Tradition says it was selected by the chief's father and overlooked the tribe's first village on the banks of Rock River. Black Hawk gave the following account of the place to Antoine Le Claire in 1833: "The tower was my favorite resort and was often visited by me alone, where I could sit and smoke my pipe and look with wonder and pleasure at the grand scenes that were presented, even across the mighty river. On one occasion a Frenchman who had been resting in our village, brought his violin with him to the Tower to play and dance for the amus.e.m.e.nt of my people who had a.s.sembled there, and while dancing with his back to the cliff, accidentally fell over it and was killed. The Indians say that at the same time of the year soft strains of the violin can be heard near the spot." He further relates that in the year 1827, a young Sioux Indian, who was lost in a violent snow-storm, found his way into a camp of the Sacs, and while there, fell in love with a beautiful maiden. On leaving for his own country he promised to return in the summer and claim his bride. He did so, secreting himself in the woods until he met the object of his affection. A heavy thunder-storm was coming on at the time, and the lovers took shelter under a rocky cliff on the south side of the Tower. Soon a loud peal of thunder was heard; the cliff was rent into a thousand pieces and they were buried beneath them. "This, their unexpected tomb," says Black Hawk, "still remains undisturbed."

In the spring, summer and autumn many hundreds of visitors climb to the Tower, especially on Sunday and holidays, and while breathing the pure, healthful atmosphere, enjoy delightful views of the surrounding country and the majestic river at their feet. The Davenport family own the property, which, however, is accessible to all visitors.

CHAPTER XXII.

DAVENPORT TO DES MOINES.

One Hundred and Forty-fifth Day.

_Farm House_, NEAR BLUE GRa.s.s, IOWA, _October 3, 1876_.

Weather cold, but clear and bracing. Mounted _Paul_ at three o'clock P.

M. and halted at the office of _The Democrat_, to say good-bye to Colonel Russell. On the road I overtook S. N. Garlock, a farmer, who invited me to spend the night at his house, which I agreed to do and was made very comfortable. I soon discovered that Mr. Garlock was a native of the Empire State, but came to Iowa twenty-seven years ago, and was now the owner of a prosperous farm near the village of Blue Gra.s.s. He spoke of visiting his old home in the East and his intention to proceed by way of Philadelphia and spend a day or two at the Centennial Exposition. He said that many Western people were making arrangements to go to the "Exposition" and at the same time visit their old homes and the old folks whom they had not seen for many long years.

One Hundred and Forty-sixth Day.

_Iowa House_, MOSCOW, IOWA, _October Fourth_.

Moscow is a small agricultural hamlet twenty-nine miles west of Davenport, with a population of less than three hundred, but increasing in number as the surrounding region is occupied. On the road here from Blue Gra.s.s I found the weather becoming very cold and was compelled to dismount several times and walk some heat into my body. The country is rich in fertility of soil--generally rolling prairie. The villages along the road are said to be growing very rapidly.