Ocean to Ocean on Horseback Part 24

One hundred and Thirty-second Day.

_Clifton House_, OTTAWA, ILLINOIS, _September Twentieth_.

I rode out of Morris in the morning just as the public school bells were ringing nine o'clock. My journey now lay along the north bank of the Illinois River, and took me through some of the finest cornfields I had ever seen. Acres and acres, miles and miles stretched in all directions as far as the eye could reach whenever the elevation of the road was high enough above this waving sea of grain to permit of my looking about. Otherwise I pa.s.sed through it completely shut in, except as I could look ahead and behind and see the avenue of giant stalks. My horse, sixteen hands high, did not elevate me sufficiently to enable me, sitting in the saddle, to look over the corn tops, and they still towered above my head like so many small trees.

Those who are privileged to see this agricultural wonder must, however, a.s.sociate it with that other source of pride among Illinois farmers--the "hogs"--for most of this splendid harvest is fed to these animals and they, well-fattened thereby, are driven to market. Thus the enterprising farmer is saved the expense of hauling his corn to Chicago or other points, as the pork, into which it has been transformed, is able to carry itself.

All along my route across the "Sucker State," I encountered, day after day, white hogs and black hogs, hogs of every grade and shade, my horse often stepping aside in equine dignity to allow a drowsy or pugnacious porker to pa.s.s.

As I had determined to reach Ottawa by nightfall, I was compelled to ride nearly all day in a drizzling rain which at noon was followed by a heavy thunder shower. This I took advantage of by stopping at Seneca for dinner, and then pushed forward. Was forced to halt again at three o'clock on account of rain, and being near a farm house was invited to "come in" while the good people took care of my horse.

Overtook a troop of boys on horseback near Ottawa and had their lively company into town. There I met an old acquaintance--Mr. Kean--who was among the first to greet me. My time was pa.s.sed pleasantly here, and I would do injustice to the proprietor of the Clifton were I to forget the many courtesies politely extended to me while his guest.

One hundred and Thirty-third Day.

_Harrison House_, LA SALLE, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-first_.

Left the Clifton House, Ottawa, at two P. M. The weather was still in an unsettled condition which obliged me to make my way as best I could between showers in order to keep my lecture appointment at La Salle. I considered it fortunate that my route was now along the west bank of the Illinois, a stream in which I had long been interested owing to the important part it played as a convenient and favorite water course for the early explorers of the Valley of the Mississippi. Between its verdant banks, Joliet, Marquette, La Salle and others glided on their way to the great stream. How the lover of history and adventure thrills at the accounts of La Salle's Fort Creve-Coeur, and his colony scattered over this same region of country!

Probably none of these historic men paid a more flattering tribute to "La Riviere des Illinois" than Hennepin, the priest, who, when pa.s.sing down it to the Mississippi was not too much oppressed with anxiety to admire its charms. What a different appearance its sh.o.r.es presented in 1680 to that of 1876! In place of the forest, waving corn fields under high cultivation attracted my attention on every hand, and in contrast to the wilderness inhabited by the savages whom Hennepin encountered, I saw an emigrant train peaceably moving along on its way from the East to the promising country west of the Mississippi.

One hundred and Thirty-fourth Day.

_Harrison House_, LA SALLE, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-second_.

The equinoctial storms were now at their height and as my lecture at Davenport was not to be delivered for some days, I decided to spend a day or two in this pleasant little city, until "Old Sol" had "crossed the line."

I found that this is the centre of important coal and lead mines, which I should have visited and examined, superficially at least, had not the inclement weather prevented. Through the courtesy of Colonel Stephens, editor of the _La Salle County Press_ and a colonel in the volunteer service during the late war, I was introduced to many of the citizens who told me much of the history and enterprises of their town.

One hundred and Thirty-fifth Day.

_Harrison House_, LA SALLE, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-third_.

Rode down to Peru in the morning accompanied by Colonel Stephens, who wished to show me the pride of the county--the big plow works, which const.i.tute the leading industry of the place. Was introduced to members of the firm and shown through the various departments of the establishment, which were certainly imposing in the way of machinery and in the evidence of mechanical skill. We returned to La Salle at four o'clock and my hospitable comrade proposed that we take a stroll through the city, to which I quickly consented.

Colonel Stephens introduced me to my audience in the evening, and made pleasant reference to the brave and chivalrous Custer. My entertainment here was most gratifying and I was warmly a.s.sured of the good will of the people through the local press.

I have proved that everywhere in this country the spirit of hospitality reigns. Whether in large cities or small towns, the utmost cordiality prevails, and the stranger can always rely upon a hearty welcome.

One Hundred and Thirty-sixth Day.

_Farm House_, NEAR HOLLOWAYVILLE, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-fourth_.

Upon leaving La Salle at three o'clock in the afternoon, I was told that I would have no difficulty in securing accommodations for myself and horse at Hollowayville, so, with the a.s.surance of finding everything lovely here, I jogged along over the intervening twelve miles at my leisure.

My feelings can better be imagined than described when, on my arrival at the little hamlet, I was looked upon with suspicion. The simple-minded inhabitants hinted that I might possibly be a "highwayman" or a "horse thief," or, for aught they knew, one of the James or Younger brothers.

These desperadoes were then exciting the people on both sides of the Mississippi and my equipment, set off with high top boots and gauntlets, with the peculiar trappings of my horse, only made matters worse.

Finding it impossible to secure lodging in the village, I rode on into the country, stopping at a farm house which looked inviting. I entered the front yard slowly and with dignity to dispel the horse thief suspicion. The farmer's daughter, a young girl of seventeen or eighteen years, and a few farm hands, stood about, of whom I asked if the master of the place was at home. The girl took me within, and Monsieur and Madame Croisant received me. They were both in bed, ill, but looking quite comfortable with their heads pointing in different directions.

They carried on a lively conversation in French, the daughter interpreting, and in conclusion, after a.s.suring them that I was a harmless person, very tired and hungry, they decided, if the clergyman of the place thought it safe, that I might stay with them. The dominie was called, looked me over a few minutes, cross-questioned me, and approved.

My room that night was unique in more ways than one and would have been punishment enough for Jesse James himself.

When I retired I detected a strong odor in the room and found it due to a collection of _sabots_, or wooden shoes, seemingly centuries old, which were arranged in a row under my bed. What to do with them was a question, as, under the circ.u.mstances, I did not think it best to tamper with the feelings of my host and hostess. As my room was on the ground floor, I decided to place the _sabots_ carefully outside under the window and take them in in the morning before the family was up.

Unfortunately it rained and I overslept, so the shoes were discovered full of water before I appeared. However, nothing was said and I ate my breakfast in peace, the good people probably thanking their stars that they and their house had not been robbed.

Before leaving in the morning the _La Salle County Press_ was handed me by Miss Croisant, in which I read the following flattering notice of my lecture in that city and which in some measure compensated for my unpleasant reception at Hollowayville:

"We have not often met with a more agreeable and pleasant gentleman than Captain Willard Glazier, who entertained a very respectable number of our citizens at Opera Hall on Sat.u.r.day evening by delivering a lecture on 'Echoes from the Revolution.' The captain has a fine voice and his manner of delivery is decidedly interesting, while his language is eloquent and fascinating. His description of the battles of the Revolution, and the heroes who took part in them, from the engagement on the little green at Lexington down to the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, was grand indeed, and was received with frequent and enthusiastic applause. In conclusion he referred in an eloquent and touching manner to the 'Boys in Blue,' who took part in the late war for the Union, and all retired from the hall feeling that the evening had been spent in an agreeable and profitable manner.

"Captain Glazier served under Generals Kilpatrick and Custer during the late war, since which time he has devoted much labor to writing and is now making the attempt to cross the continent from Boston to San Francisco on horseback, for the purpose of collecting material for another work. He left Boston the early part of May, and will endeavor to reach the Sacramento Valley before the fall of the deep snow. His horse, _Paul Revere_, is a magnificent animal, black as a raven, with the exception of four white feet. He was bred in Kentucky of Black Hawk stock, has turned a mile in 2.33, but owing to his inclination to run away on certain occasions, was not considered a safe horse for the track. The captain, however, has broken him to the saddle, and also convinced him that running away is foolish business; consequently, he and the captain have become fast friends, and with _Paul_ for his only companion, the gallant cavalryman proposes to cross the continent. Success attend him!"

One Hundred and Thirty-seventh Day.

_Ellsworth House_, WYANET, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-fifth_.

The equinoctial storms which had been raging since I left Ottawa, were, for a few days at least, at an end, and a bright autumn sun greeted me every morning as I rode onward. Rich cornfields stretched away on either side of the road, their monotony broken here and there by fine apple and peach orchards just coming into their glory. Another characteristic of Illinois--fine stock farms--were also noticeable, and thus for another stage of fourteen miles, surrounded by evidences of fertility and thrift, I pa.s.sed on, reaching Wyanet early in the evening.

One Hundred and Thirty-eighth Day.

_Private House_, ANNAWAN, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-sixth_.

Before leaving Wyanet I had _Paul's_ bridle--a Mexican make--repaired, and when it was again used he chafed at the restraint of the curb. Not for long though, for we were soon on the prairie, he evidently enjoying it as much as his master. The roads were rougher than usual and there was a change here in the soil, its black clayey loam being very rich and productive, making Henry County noted for its fine farms. Eighteen miles of gra.s.s-covered prairie, diversified by cultivated fields, brought me to Annawan, where I was the guest of O. T. b.u.t.termore, and while at this place I received the following gratifying communication from Colonel Stephens of La Salle--further proof of the good will to "the stranger within their gates," of the citizens of La Salle:

_September 25, 1876_.

TO CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER:

I take pleasure in expressing to you on behalf of many of our citizens, the gratification afforded our people who listened to your instructive and entertaining lecture given at Opera Hall on Sat.u.r.day evening last. While in conversation with several of our prominent citizens, among them, W. A. Work, superintendent of our public schools; A. J. O'Connor, clerk of the city court; W. T. Mason, Esq., and others, all of whom were present and heard your lecture, I was requested to write you and tender their hearty thanks for the entertainment and their good wishes for your success in your ride across the continent. Should you ever again visit our city you can rest a.s.sured you will be most cordially received.

Very truly yours, R. C. STEPHENS, _Late Colonel U. S. Volunteers_.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A HAPPY FAMILY.]

One Hundred and Thirty-ninth Day.

_Farm House_, BETWEEN GENESSEO AND MOLINE, ILLINOIS, _September Twenty-seventh_.

Started away from Annawan at nine o'clock but after riding about a mile and a half I discovered that I had left my journal and was obliged to return for it. All day I was on a seemingly endless prairie, dotted here and there with cornfields and apple orchards. Illinois takes the lead in stock-raising, and the horses and cattle seen in this day's ride were fully up to the best standard.

Had dinner at the house of a coal miner, whom I found very intelligent, and was well entertained by a talk on mining industries in Illinois from a practical point of view. This is a bituminous coal region and there are mines in operation all over the State.