Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic Part 4

_Tuesday_ morning.--Finished my business satisfactorily. We visited the old Parliament-house, now a library and museum. There is also the French Roman Catholic cathedral in the Marketplace, and the English cathedral.

The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, the most n.o.ble general France ever had,--

Mortem virtus communem; Famam historia; Monumentum posteritas dedit.

or--

Valour gave a common death; History a common fame; Posterity a common monument.

is situated on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from the Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond. In front is a broad walk overlooking the Castle-gardens, the harbour, and the sh.o.r.e of Orleans.

We had not time to visit the Chaudiere Falls, but took the fine steamer _Montreal_, and found ourselves at Montreal at seven on Wednesday morning, where we sojourned Tetue's Hotel, being sickened of the Exchange, at as they wanted to rob us. Attended to business all day, and had Mr. Kidson (Glasgow), Mr. Redpath, Mr. Hall, Mr. Easton, and Mr. A.

M'Farlane to dinner.

_Thursday._--At business all day. Rained incessantly. Dined with Mr.

Geddes, who treated me like a prince. He has a nice wife and an amiable family. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Leeming, and appointed him our agent for the retail trade. Home, and to bed, and had a good night's rest.

_Friday._--Rained incessantly. Found the benefit of my new rig-out of flannel and India-rubber boots. Visited the House of a.s.sembly. The Speaker, my kind friend Mr. Cuvillier, had given me an order. He has 1000 a year, and the representatives two dollars a day. The Legislative Council Chamber is worth seeing. I spent the evening with Mr. Rickards.

I finished up the most satisfactory business I had done in any town since I left home. Montreal is very flourishing--the metropolis of Canada--and will double its population, now 50,000, ere long, if Sir Charles Metcalfe is supported; but the French Canadians, and the Irish, who abound, led by their priests, are brewing dissatisfaction and discord. His councillors have just resigned, and a general election is taking place. May he succeed is my earnest wish!

_Sat.u.r.day_, 6th.--We left Montreal at twelve at noon per stage to Lachine. We pa.s.sed the mountains and Sir C. Metcalfe's private house on the road. We took a steamer (the _Chieftain_) here to d.i.c.kenson's Landing, thirty-eight miles. We pa.s.sed on the left, at starting, an Indian village, called Cachnawago, where the Ojibbeway tribe live. We saw several in their canoes. On the left, just before we landed, we saw the Beauharnois Ca.n.a.l, of E.G. Wakefield notoriety. He must either have been bought, or, if not, he certainly must have been a fool to allow the ca.n.a.l to be cut on the American side of the St. Lawrence. The Yankees are thirsting for British blood; and, should they be successful in Canada, this costly ca.n.a.l goes. We now took stage for sixteen miles, on a planked road, and with a first-rate team. On the left were the rapids of the St. Lawrence, or Cascades. I would not have believed had I not seen a small steamer, drawing about four feet of water, going down at an awful rate. I expected every minute it would have been dashed to atoms.

How they escape, eight or ten a day, as they go up the ca.n.a.l and return that day, is astonishing. This is the most incredible sight I have witnessed. Roebuck, the Member for Bath, was born here. On arriving at Chateau-du-Luc we got on board a very fine boat, the _Highlander_, Captain Stearns--a fine fellow. After proceeding forty-one miles, we reached the Cornwall Ca.n.a.l, where we were much impeded by seven locks.

This splendid ca.n.a.l, the finest in the world, is one hundred feet wide, and the locks fifty-two: it is twelve miles long, and about fourteen feet deep. We now pa.s.s from Lower to Upper Canada, direct from east to west; and about six miles forward we find the State of New York on the left. About thirty miles farther we call at Ogdensburgh, on the American side, and Prescott right opposite, where the windmill stands dilapidated from the skirmish the patriots had here, when the English demolished the lot. We called at Maitland for wood, and thence to Brockville, and glided up the Thousand Islands: there really are a thousand islands between here and Kingston. The foliage on the trees was grand--all colours. It pa.s.sed all description; and the trees actually grow out of the rocks with which all the islands are covered. About ten miles from Kingston, on one of the islands, lives the notorious Bill Johnston, the patriot. We arrived at Kingston at four P.M., 216 miles in twenty-eight hours.

_Sunday._--Sojourned at Lambton-house for the sake of its name, and walked about this very poor town. It is a straggling place. The late Government-house is neither elegant nor commodious, and is now a Sunday-school: still it is the only house of any importance in the neighbourhood. We walked down to a spring of mineral water, resembling Harrogate, and one spring much stronger--kept by a hearty couple, Bone and his wife, from Plymouth. They propose getting a large hotel built by next year, to vie with Saratoga. I wish them success. They were very kind. Mr. King came and spent the evening with me.

_Monday._--Found the tradesmen of the right sort: still their operations are confined. They bitterly complain, and I think _justly_, of Lord Stanley removing the seat of government. Rents are reduced half, and many houses are standing empty, and are likely to remain so. Many had built and enlarged their premises, through the a.s.surance of Sir C.

Metcalfe that the Government would not be removed. Perhaps it was not his fault: his councillors became, or rather wished to become, his masters; and the removal took place during the illness of Sir C. Bagot.

There is a faction in these provinces who will bring about rebellion and an outbreak worse than those of 1837 and 1838. I hope I may be deceived.

One thing is certain, the Governor will not get a majority, he having dissolved his Parliament; and if he continues to govern it must be with his Council, without representatives. My warm-hearted Herefordshire friend, Mr. Wilson, drove me to see the gaol, which is well and wisely governed, and excellently regulated in every respect. The men are employed as shoemakers, ropemakers, blacksmiths, tailors, carpenters, and stonecutters, and are building the prison, which is far advanced.

The net profits the last year were 3000, after paying all expenses. The female prisoners are occupied in needlework. Among them was a beautiful girl of twenty, who had been there nearly three years. She acted as bearer of secret despatches for the self-styled patriots on Navy Island during the Canadian insurrection; sometimes dressed as a girl, and carrying them in her stays; sometimes attired as a boy, and secreting them in the lining of her hat. In the latter character she always rode as a boy. She could govern any horse that any man could ride, and could drive four in hand with the best whip in those parts. Setting forth on one of her patriotic missions, she appropriated to herself the first horse she could lay her hands on; and this offence had brought her where I saw her. She had a lovely face, though there was a lurking devil in her bright eye. I dined with my friend, and went on board the steamer _Princess Royal_, for Toronto, at eight.

_Tuesday_ morning, six o'clock.--We had arrived at Coburg, a thriving town on Lake Ontario, where I left letters for the importers of lace. It is a rising town of 3000 inhabitants, and will soon rank high in Upper Canada. We pa.s.sed Port Hope, another rising town; and on the right Bondhead and Windsor. Lake Ontario is a wonder indeed--216 miles long, and 90 miles wide--a truly magnificent sheet of water, very rough at times. We arrived at Stone's Hotel, Toronto, at three o'clock, P.M. The country round is flat, and bare of scenic interest; but the town itself is full of life, motion, bustle, and business. The streets are well paved and lighted with gas--the only place in Canada, except Montreal, where gas is introduced; the houses large and good; the shops excellent--many of them may vie with the best shops in thriving country-towns in England. There are a handsome church, courthouse, and public offices, and many commodious private residences. It is matter of regret that here, too, political differences run high. I visited the Reform a.s.sociation, where the noted Baldwin was holding forth, and preaching sedition under pretence of abusing the Governor-General. This body are spreading discord, by their branches, all through Canada: where it will end is to be seen. I saw all the importers, and retired to rest tired, at eleven o'clock.

Population of Toronto, 20,000.

_Wednesday._--This town must rise in commerce, and must stand second to Montreal. They are active business men, and have lots of back-country to depend upon--good land, and the farmers of the old Dutch sort. The women must necessarily wear more clothes than in England, in consequence of the climate. At two o'clock I took the _Eclipse_ mail-boat, Captain John Gordon, from Aberdeen; and let me observe, all these captains of steamers here are fine fellows, not very well paid--salary not more than 300 a year. We were again on Lake Ontario, and pa.s.sed Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington-square on the right: healthy towns, but small. The farmers here all reserve a good portion of wood for fire, and rails and planks for domestic purposes. At the bottom of the lake we pa.s.sed through a short ca.n.a.l into Burlington Bay--a beautiful sheet of water; and arrived at Hamilton, at the terminus of the navigation.

_Thursday_ morning.--Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000 inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab, who made such a formidable stand for the const.i.tution against the rebels L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.

_Friday._--Returned by the same steamer to Toronto, and finished up my business satisfactorily. Took a walk with Mr. Fisken to see the new college, which is at a stand-still for want of funds, and saw the Government observatory; and then visited the stone prison, which I did not like, as there is no work for the prisoners--all lying idly about--great contrast to Kingston. The town all in confusion nominating the candidates. In Toronto all the footpaths are planked with wood, which is very comfortable to walk upon.

_Sat.u.r.day._--Took a steamer at seven, A.M., for Niagara. Arrived at that town, of 1800 inhabitants, about twelve. A small place, of 3000 inhabitants, on the left, is Young's-town, on the American side, where their flag was flying in opposition to our union-jack. There is a fort at both places. Seven miles farther up the Niagara river, which we were now in, having left Ontario, we landed at Queenstown, a small place right opposite Lewistown, U.S. Here Brock's monument was erected and blown up. We then took rail seven miles, pa.s.sed Drummondsville battle-ground, and arrived at Clifton-house.

THE FALLS.

Oh my G.o.d! how I was stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene! It was not until I reached Table Rock, and looked upon the fall of bright green water, that it came upon me in its full might and majesty. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart an image of beauty, to remain there changeless and indelible until it ceases to beat. It is overpowering to think that the outpourings of lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, Michigan, and St. Clare, covering a surface of 150,000 square miles, all roll down this 157 feet fall, with, it is said, sixteen times the power, deducting one-third for waste, of all the water-power used in Great Britain. I wandered to and fro, and saw the cataracts from all points of view. At the Great Horseshoe is decidedly the best view, near Table Rock: you can see the rapids approaching the verge as if gathering strength to take the giant leap. When the sun shines the rainbow appears like molten gold upon the spray; and when the day is gloomy it crumbles away like snow, or like the front of a great chalk cliff. But always does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down. The rise of spray is great at times. But enough.

_Sunday_ morning, very early, I went down a spiral staircase leading to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, where I could have pa.s.sed 153 feet behind the falling sheet, but I soon got wet, and returned. Table Rock projects out many feet above this place, and will come down ere long, as it is much cracked. I then visited an Episcopal church at Drummondsville, where the desperate battle was fought--a beautiful village above the Falls--and heard a good sermon. Returned to Clifton-house, and ascended to the promenade on the top, which is very commanding. After dinner, with Mr. Parker, from the Caledonia Springs, on the Ottaway River--with whom, and his lovely daughter, I had travelled from Toronto--I started by the ferry-boat for the American side. This gave me another fine view, as we went close under them. On landing at the other side, we had to ascend a ladder about 200 feet high. We ordered a carriage at the Cataract Hotel, and drove to the whirlpool, four miles down the Rapids. This is an awful place, and indescribable. We then walked over Bath Island and Iris (or Goat) Island: here again is a splendid view. We saw Gull Island, where man has never been; and in the Rapids we saw the hull of the ship Detroit, fitted up in 1841 for the purpose of being sent over the Falls, but she went to pieces before she got over the Rapids. It got dark, and descending those long stairs, and crossing the Niagara River, was not to my mind. However, we landed safe. Tired, and to bed.

_Monday_ morning.--Visited Mr. Barnett's Museum. Bought some sticks peculiar to Niagara, and Indian curiosities; and looked into the large camera obscura, which reproduced every sight at the Falls. Ascertained from Mr. B. that the Canada Fall is half a mile in circ.u.mference, and the American a quarter of a mile. The depth of the water on the verge of the Horseshoe Fall is twenty feet. The Falls can be heard from five to twenty miles, according to wind and atmosphere: it is said they have been heard at Toronto, forty miles. The quant.i.ty of water supposed to go over the Falls in one hour is 102,093,750 tuns. I must now take my leave of the Falls with regret, as my friend Mr. Stephenson called, and drove me to see a Canadian farmer. I was much pleased with his farm and husbandry, and his domestic fireside. He makes 50 a year by his bees, and grows almost everything that the family eats. We then drove to the burning springs in the Niagara River, and over to Chippeway, where Mr.

S. has a saw-mill, of twenty-horse power, that will cut up 11,000 superficial feet of wood a day. Chippeway has 700 inhabitants. We left it per steamer, and saw the Rapids to great advantage before they dashed over the Falls. Here, to the right, is Navy Island, of 304 acres, which was occupied by Mackenzie, Van Ransselaer, and about 400 Patriots, in 1837-8, for five weeks. Their object was to collect recruits to revolutionize Canada. On the American sh.o.r.e, on the left, is Schlosser landing and wharf, where the _Caroline_ was moored when Capt. Drew, the commander of a squadron of five steamers, cut her out, towed her into the stream, set fire to her, and sent her over the Falls blazing. The patriots fled after this. M'Leod was tried by the Americans, and acquitted. Opposite Navy Island was the place where poor Usher lived that was shot by two Yankees, who suspected he knew of the _Caroline_ affair. About thirty miles up the Niagara River we got into Lake Erie, 300 miles long; and on the right (Canada side) is the Welland Ca.n.a.l, which connects Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, a splendid undertaking by Government, 32 miles long. Here you can see the mist that is caused, or spray rising from the chasm of the Falls, at this distance. On the left is the Erie Ca.n.a.l, which conveys all traffic to and from New York; and a little farther we arrive in the busy, bustling harbour of Buffalo, whence ships and steamers sail for all parts of the far West and Southern states. We drove to the United States Hotel, and to bed.

Population of Buffalo, 25,000.

_Tuesday_, the 15th.--This is the queen of the lake cities, admirably situated at the outlet of Lake Erie, and the head of the Niagara River.

All produce and traffic of every description for the Western country must go here, to be reshipped from the ca.n.a.l boats. The Erie Ca.n.a.l is eighty feet wide, and thirteen deep. The streets are broad, and intersect at right angles. The buildings are in general decent--some are splendid: the stores recently erected are four and five stories high; and, strange to say, not a single dry-goods importer in the town. We drove round the neighbourhood, and examined a poor-house of paupers and lunatics. I left at four, East for Rochester--population, 23,000: 75 miles; and Auburn, 78 farther--population, 7000. Visited the New York State Prison, the largest in the world: they make here, as at Kingston, every description of article: about 800 convicts at work daily. Lett, who blew up Brock's monument, is here: I saw him daily. I was really more pleased here than at any previous sight. The discipline, cleanliness, and behaviour were astonishing. At twelve they marched to dinner in Indian files, with a simultaneous lock-step, eyes to their overseer, head erect. The m.u.f.fled bell strikes at four, and labour is suspended. I bought some very good cutlery manufactured by the convicts.

Auburn is two miles from Lake Cuyaga. Left here at two for Syracuse--26 miles: population, 8000. Thence to Utica--53 miles: population, 14,000.

Broke down on the road, and, detained three hours, was obliged to stop till four in the morning. Thence for Schenectady--78 miles: population, 5000; and to Albany--16 miles (326 miles). The most tedious journey I ever had in my life. I had a long talk on the way with a very intelligent farmer, who told me the best breed of sheep they get from England are called esquirol or merino; mugs do not answer; and that best parts of mutton were sold at 3 cents per lb. Cattle, the short-horned, they imported, and the meat sold at 2-1/2 cents; pork, 4 cents; cheese, 6-1/2 cents; and b.u.t.ter, 11 cents. They are far behind us in horses. In Long Island and Rhode Island they are improving the breed. Arrived at Albany at eleven, A.M. Found there were no lace-importers here--all buy in New York. Saw the State-house--a n.o.ble building, where the representatives and state senators deliberate. Also was shown over the Government buildings for the management of the state; and took my departure on board the _Knickerbocker_, a new steamer, most magnificently fitted up, 325 feet long, and painted in the most superb style. We had about 700 pa.s.sengers, and plenty of berths for all.

Arrived at the Globe Hotel at seven.

_Friday_ morning.--A regular wet day. Got a bad cold. Made several calls. Visited the American Inst.i.tution or Exposition in the evening, where all descriptions of domestic manufacture, implements, &c., are exposed for inspection and prizes: also cattle, horses, and a ploughing match: 30,000 people had attended during the week. Such expositions are very desirable. Spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Green, and retired to rest at eleven.

_Sat.u.r.day_, the 19th.--No mail, although fifteen days out. Took leave of all customers, finished my business, and satisfied myself that there are not more than six lace-importers in New York whom I would trust, most of whom we shall have arranged with Mr. S. Pickersgill for our future journey. Visited Barnham Museum, the owner of Tom Thumb; and found out he is an English-bred boy, and no American giant. Spent a quiet evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce. Retired to bed early: could not sleep for reflecting.

_Sunday_ morning.--No mail. Most anxious for my despatches. Dr. Keen called, and had a walk. Paid a visit to Dr. Dewey's handsome Unitarian chapel, and heard an excellent sermon. Spent an hour more with Dr. Keen, and dined with W.C. Pickersgill, Esq., our banker, a most intelligent, well-informed man. He is the partner of Fielding Brothers, Liverpool, and married Miss Riggs of Baltimore. Took tea and spent the evening with A.T. Stewart and his wife, my fellow-pa.s.sengers out, and first-rate people; and retired to my bedroom to read the Bible at nine.

_Monday._--A most unpleasant journey. Took the Philadelphia rail to Elizabethtown. Thence to Sommerville, and to Clover-hill per waggon, in search of Mr. D----'s brother. Arrived at three o'clock, and found he was from home: waited at a farmhouse till ten, when he arrived, and I soon found out that the American atmosphere had contaminated him. A regular thief!--would not pay his brothers (B---- and D----) a cent out of 300 he owes them. Although I was miserable both in body and mind, I benefited by what I saw at this humble place. I saw happiness without ostentation: a good husband and amiable wife. They strove to make me comfortable. I had mush and milk for supper, lapped myself up in a blanket, and laid down till five in the morning. Moses M. Bateman drove me back 16 miles, and I returned to New York (70 miles) after a fruitless journey.

_Tuesday._--Found my letters per _Acadia_: they gave me much domestic gratification. Two I had from my wife, and one from Bow Churchyard.

These were in answer to my first despatches. I dined and spent a quiet evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce and Mr. Flanden, and retired to bed early.

_Wednesday._--A great Clay and Frelinghuysen day. A grand procession of the Whigs of many thousands. Mr. Pearce and I visited the Creton Aqueduct for supplying New York with water. It is 1826 feet long, and 836 feet wide, and covers 35 acres. It comes down a tunnel of 35 miles, part of which distance is an aqueduct. We walked to the East River and Astoria, and returned to meet Mr. Blane, Mr. Brough, Mr. C. Vyse, and Mr. Palin, whom I had asked to dine with me at five. We had one of Mr.

Blankard's best dinners, and spent a pleasant evening: were joined by Dr. Keen and Mr. Green. Brough sang us three excellent songs. They left at ten; and I to bed.

_Thursday._--I finally finished my mission with Mr. Pearce most satisfactorily. Visited Mr. Bach, distiller, Brooklyn--my first time there. Dined with C. Vyse, at Dalmonico's. Met Mr. Blane, Palin, and Bund. A most sumptuous dinner: would cost at least 50 dollars. Left at nine, and spent my last evening at New York with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce.