Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic Part 5

Paid my bill at the Globe, 49 dollars, 75 cents for the week; and to bed. Could not sleep: a restless, disagreeable night.

_Friday._--Started at eight per Long Island Rail-way to Boston, Brooklyn, and Greenport, ninety-five miles; per rail thence to Stonington, thirty-two miles; per steamer in the Bay Sounds thence to Providence--a town of 15,000 inhabitants, where H.W. Doe is confined; and to Boston, forty-four miles: in all 218 in ten hours--the quickest travelling I have had; and proceeded to the Tremont-house. Read the English papers; and saw the account of my old friend T. Sidney being made sheriff and alderman in the same week, with the likelihood of his being Sir Thomas before I return. "Some men are born great, and others have greatness thrust upon them."

Population of Boston, 50,000.

_Sat.u.r.day_ morning.--I visited the Custom-house, by previous arrangement, to clear some pattern-cards. I could not help being strongly impressed with the contrast their Custom-house presented, when compared with some I could mention, and the attention, politeness, and good-humour with which its officers discharged their duties. They saw the force of my arguments at once, and let me have the books free of duty; and at their particular request I promised the Custom-house examiners one. They offered me any amount of money for it, which I declined to take. They are building a new Custom-house upon a large scale. The air here is very piercing--easterly winds prevail a great deal. The houses are bright, and have a gay appearance, the signboards are painted in such gaudy colours; the gilded letters are so very golden; the bricks so very red; the blinds and area-railings so very green; the plates upon the street-doors so marvellously bright and twinkling--and all so slight and unsubstantial in appearance. The suburbs are, if possible, more unsubstantial-looking than the city. The city is a beautiful one, and cannot fail to impress all strangers very favourably. The State-house is built upon the summit of a hill, which rises gradually by a steep ascent almost from the water's edge--a fine building, where all government operations are carried on, as at Albany, and elsewhere in the different states. From the top there is a charming panoramic view of the whole town and neighbourhood. In front is a green inclosure called the Common, a great benefit to the town. The docks are not very good: a great many ships lay over at East Boston. The Exchange is a very fine building, where the merchants congregate; but in fair weather a great deal of business is done in the streets. I wrote about thirty circulars to St. John's and Halifax, instead of going myself; and retired to rest at eleven.

_Sunday_ morning, October 27th.--Attended the Trinity church, and heard a most impressive sermon by Bishop Eastburn, Ephesians iv. 17: "This I say therefore, and testify in the Lord, that ye henceforth walk not as other Gentiles walk, in the vanity of their minds." A wet, nasty day; read the Bible till dinner-time; thence to St. Paul's church to hear Dr.

Vinton: he spoke so Yankee-like, I could not understand him at the distance I was. Very handsome churches they have here. Took a long walk all round the city; admired the neat houses they are building in all directions; and felt that the State of Ma.s.sachusetts stood the highest in my estimation of any of the states I had yet visited. Spent the evening with Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester--the most decided man of business I had met with for many a long day. It had been previously arranged that he should carry our patterns through all the states and Canada.

_Monday_ morning.--Took a regular turn through amongst the importers of lace, and was thunderstruck at the enormous quant.i.ty of highly-respectable importers, certainly far exceeding New York and Philadelphia. They are first-rate business men: _no auctions_, which I detest: no overstocks, which will be the ruin of New York; well a.s.sorted, and in good condition. In fact, I felt as if I had been in an English town, for the men of business are more like English than Americans. They nearly all import--at least thirty first-rate men import--our goods. I experienced a great deal of civility from Mr. W.

Appleton, and Mr. Ward, Barings' agent; and altogether was much pleased with my reception. Had not Mr. Schofield undertaken to receive our orders, I could have done a very large trade. I may here observe, the Tremont is one of the best houses in the states in every respect.

Buckwheat cakes to breakfast; and they use the incredibly large quant.i.ty of 45 tons of b.u.t.ter per year.

_Tuesday_ morning, the 29th.--A regular wet day; rained incessantly.

Called upon all the lace-importers, and found them thorough men of business--very prompt: came to an understanding with nearly all that they would order through Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester.

_Wednesday_ morning.--Received my despatches per _Great Western_, and proceeded to Lowell per rail. I forget whether I described an American railroad before. There are no first and second cla.s.s carriages, as with us, but gentlemen's cars and ladies' cars; and, as a black man never travels with a white one, there is a negro car. Each car holds from thirty to fifty. There is a stove blazing hot. Except where a branch-road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of rails. They rush across the turnpike-road, where there is no gate, no policeman, no signal. There is painted up, "When the bell rings, look out for the locomotive." I was met at Lowell by my fellow-pa.s.senger in the _Western_, Royal Southwick, intimately connected with the factories there. The first we visited was a cotton cloth and drill factory, where they make about 50,000 yards per day, all by water-power (the Merrimack), and have a couple of hundred girls employed. The good order and clean appearance of both factory and girls contrasted greatly with both in Lancashire. There are twenty-five mills here. We then visited a carpet manufactory, by machinery that reduces labour 75 per cent., and where some of the many girls employed make a dollar a-day. There is no manufactory like this in the world: there is a patent taken out by E.B.

Bigelow to protect the carpet power-loom manufactory. They must be making money fast here. We then visited a cloth manufactory upon a large scale, where they employ about 800 hands; and the excellency of the cloth surprized me. They will have no occasion for English cloths much longer. All by water-power. The last place was a large cylinder print-works, where they produce some first-rate goods, and, I think, as cheap as ours. There are several factories in Lowell, each of which they call a corporation, as they are chartered. They employ about 8000 girls, who make 3-1/2 dollars per week, or 14 s. Their neat, clean, and healthy appearance pleased me much: they are well dressed; and, meeting them out, you would take them to be of a higher grade. They pay 1-1/2 dollar per week for lodgings, which are situated near, and belong to the different corporations. They are strictly moral and virtuous, and all contribute to a monthly publication called "The Lowell Offering," well worth reading. I saw the princ.i.p.al editors (young ladies), and ordered it for next year. The rooms in which they work are well arranged; and green plants are trained to shade the gla.s.s windows. The laws of the state forbid their working more than nine months in the year, and require that they shall be educated during the other three. There is a hospital or boarding-house for the sick, at 3 dollars per week: they do not often require its a.s.sistance, for in 1841 they had 100,000 dollars in the savings-bank. We visited the Mechanics' Reading-room--a large building, with papers from all parts.

The population of Lowell is 25,000; one of the most rising towns in the states. There are also Fall River, Taunton, Manchester, Great Falls, Dover, New Hampshire--all rising manufacturing places. In New England state there is no coal, which is a great drawback. I returned to Boston, and spent the evening with some friends.

_Thursday._--Mr. Hanson drove me to Cambridge, to see the Universities.

This is a clean, well-built town, with 8000 or 9000 inhabitants. The expense of education is 300 dollars; and if that cannot be paid, the students are educated free, subject to instructing others a little.

There is no barrier here to the poorest man's son becoming the President, as free-schools abound. We then drove to Mount Auburn, a cemetery delightfully situated about five miles from Boston. They pay 4000 dollars for a lot for a family burying-place. Here some eminent men are interred. There are some beautiful walks over this one-hundred-acres plot of ground. We then drove round by Charlestown, a place of 10,000 inhabitants, where the Bostonians reside, well-situated; and so on to Bunker-hill Monument, where the battle was fought in 1775, when General James Warren fell: it is a very substantial mark of Jonathan conquering John. Bull. I then visited the Ma.s.sachusetts State-house: the Congress-house and Representatives are very commodious. I ascended the top, which gives a most commanding view of the whole city: it was very clear, and the view was most extensive. Like New York, it is upon an island, surrounded (except a few yards) with the River Charles and the Ocean. Home to dinner, and gave my friends T. Cochrane and Mr. Schofield two bottles of champagne, it being my last day in the States. We then proceeded to Perkins's Inst.i.tution for the Blind, managed by my fellow-pa.s.senger, Dr. Howe. We saw the gifted Laura Bridgman, whose biography I give elsewhere.[A] She is an interesting-looking girl, fifteen years old, deaf, dumb, blind, and no smell: still Providence makes her contented and happy: she can read and write, and understand geography with her fingers, and is blessed with the knowledge of Divine grace. It was truly interesting and gratifying to see the blind girls read and write and work, all so clean and neat in their persons, and apparently happy. Also the boys are instructed in a similar way, and, when ready, put out to some trade; and, if no master can be found, they instruct them in the inst.i.tution to make mattresses, chair-bottoms, &c., several of whom I saw working. We then visited South Boston State Hospital for the Insane, at the head of which is Dr. Stedman, who conducts it admirably on the enlightened principles of conciliation and kindness, and evinces a confidence and apparent trust even in mad people. Each ward in this inst.i.tution is shaped like a long gallery or hall; and, as we walked along, the patients flocked round us unrestrained, with all sorts of stories. I had ten minutes' talk with an elderly lady, who had a great many sc.r.a.ps of finery, of gauze, &c., which gave her a strange appearance: she fancied she was the hostess of the mansion. Another I talked to said she was Queen of the States.

Another poor fellow, gentlemanly in appearance, said it was a hard run between him and Prince Albert who should have the Queen of England. He had written and received several letters from her. I discovered they had all some weak point, and the doctor gave me the cue. I felt quite at ease amongst them: nearly all are unrestrained; and, strange to say, they never talk to each other, or molest each other in any way. We then visited the House of Correction for the State, where about three-fourths of the expenses are paid by the prisoners' industry. It is a well-managed prison, with strict discipline: no conversation allowed, and all kept at work, both men and women: the latter are very bad to manage. Comfort and cleanliness are very apparent. We then visited the Orphan Asylum and House of Reformation for young offenders, and for neglected and indigent boys who have committed no crimes, but perhaps soon would if they were not taken from the hungry streets and sent here: this is called the Boylston School. There is the House of Industry for old, helpless paupers: these words are painted on the walls--"Self-government, quietude, and peace are blessings." This was a clean, neat place, with a plant or two on the window-sill, a row of crockery upon the shelf, or small display of coloured prints upon the whitewashed wall. We have no such sights in our unions.

[Footnote A: See Appendix.]

I left South Boston much gratified with all I had seen; but pleasure must have an alloy. My companion drove up against a cart in the dark, broke both shafts, the horse kicked the vehicle all to pieces, and how we escaped is wonderful. I got my knee bruised, and that was all. I retired to rest, grateful to Providence for my narrow escape.

_Friday, and last day in America._--Saw the famed Dr. Channing's Unitarian chapel; and witnessed such a demonstration the previous night, with at least 10,000 boys, non-electors, parading the streets with torches, crying "Clay, of Ashland, near Lexington, Kentucky!" I really feel that I am leaving Boston with regret: I never was more pleased with any town, both in a business and social point of view. I have many kind and intelligent friends that I shall leave with regret. The Bostonians are more English in idea, smart to a degree, and well situated for commerce. The town and suburbs abound with charitable inst.i.tutions of every description; and every article of living is half the price it is in England. I visited Famenil Hall, the oldest building in the town, and famed in American history.

In conclusion, my feelings prompt me to acknowledge, with a deep sense of grat.i.tude to Messrs. Overend and Gurney, the very sympathetic and high-character letter they gave me to Messrs. Prime, Ward, and King, of New York, as I had taken the journey to recruit my health. From that letter emanated others to every town I visited, which at once placed me in communication with the most intelligent of men. I am further bound to add, contrary to the general opinion formed in England, that I met with the most open, frank, communicative people I ever came in contact with; and further I am bound to add, I frequently had occasion to blush for my own ignorance, both about Europe and America. To use a vulgar expression, they are a wide-awake people. Their cheap publications, their thirst for knowledge, and their naturally quick perceptions, place them above the level in society. That America must rise, and become a great country, is my earnest wish and belief. I do not like to individualize, but I feel an inward grat.i.tude to many kind and dear friends whom T made in my short sojourn, whose study it was to make me happy, and my journey a pleasing one.

At one o'clock I paid my bill, and proceeded to East Boston, on board the _Acadia_; and set sail exactly at two o'clock, P.M., for England, with 25 pa.s.sengers.

On leaving the harbour, on the right, we pa.s.sed several small islands, and the Liverpool light and Dorchester heights, where the Orphan Asylum is situated on a lofty eminence. On the left we pa.s.sed Lynn and Salem, and steamed it along in good style during the night.

_Sat.u.r.day_ morning, the _2nd November_.--Spoke the _Hibernia_ at eight o'clock, A.M.: about 130 pa.s.sengers, all on deck, with whom we exchanged cheers as she pa.s.sed. I was struck with the warlike appearance she had: whether it has been contemplated or not, I discovered that all these mailsteamers are admirably adapted for war: all they require are port-holes for cannon. They are made to Admiralty order, and cost 60,000 each. At six P.M. we pa.s.sed the Devil's Limb, a rock close by Seal Island, where the _Colombia_ was lost. The coast is dangerous between Boston and Halifax. The captain was up both nights.

_Sunday_ morning, at seven.--I was aroused by the discharge of a brace of cannon, and on coming on deck I found we were in Halifax harbour.

Population of this place is 20,000. Governed by Lord Falkland. Nova Scotia is about 300 miles in circ.u.mference. Staple of the town, fish: I should have thought dogs, for I saw some hundreds. It is a mean-looking town: nearly all wood houses: a very good fort and government-house. St.

John's, New Brunswick, is 250 miles from here: population, 35,000: governed by Sir W. Colebrooke: staple, timber and deals, and whale-fishing. I intended visiting St. John's, but had not time. It was fortunate, as I should have been left behind. Owing to some breakdown, the mail did not arrive in Halifax in time for us: neither did the Quebec mail, by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from Quebec, _via_ Picton, 120 miles from Halifax, arrive; and, because Captain Harrison would not wait for these mails, the Governor would not allow him the Halifax: so we started at half-past ten, leaving them all behind. At Halifax I made the acquaintance of Mr. Howe, late of the Executive Council, and Collector of Excise, which he resigned: salary, 700 a year. He is now editor of the Nova Scotia newspaper. I shall not forget his politeness, although he is a red-hot Radical. They send whalers from Halifax to the South Seas. Opposite Halifax is Dartmouth, a town of 15,000 inhabitants, whence they send plaster and rum to the States. We pa.s.sed St. George's Island, a battery, and the Thumb Cap, where the _Tribune_ was lost. We also pa.s.sed the Curzon and Devil's Island Beacon, and were much gratified by pa.s.sing a fleet of men-of-war, the largest of which, the _Ill.u.s.trious_, 74 guns, 700 hands, was in full sail, with a band of music playing and singing "_Home, sweet home_," which went to my very soul. They were bound for Bermuda, West India Islands. Their Admiral, Sir C. Adam, was on board, with sixteen officers. At five P.M. we were out of sight of land, steaming it along at ten knots.

Pa.s.sAGE HOME PER ACADIA.

Nov. 1st.--Light westerly winds, with fine clear weather. All sails set.

Lat. 42 57'; Long. 66 57' 87".

2nd.--Westerly winds, steady, with clear weather, and smooth water.

Pa.s.sed the _Hibernia_ at eight A.M., from Liverpool, bound to Boston. At four saw Seal Island, bearing north: distance about seven miles. At daylight made Halifax harbour.

Lat. 42 20'; Long. 71 4'.

3rd.--At seven landed the mails. At eleven cast off from the wharf, and proceeded to sea. Light winds, westerly, with smooth water. All sails set.

394 miles. Lat. 44 39-1/2'; Long. 62 33-3/4'.

4th.--Winds from S.W. to N.W., light, with hazy weather, and small rain.

231 miles. Lat. 45 17'; Long. 58 0'.

5th.--Wind N.E., light, with fine clear weather, and smooth water. At eleven Cape Race, 10 miles distance, bearing to the east. At four exchanged signals with the brig _Mary and Martha_. Wind standing to the southward.

241 miles. Lat. 46 30'; Long. 52 47'.

6th.--Strong easterly gales, with dark cloudy weather, and a heavy sea running.

202 miles. Lat. 47 10'; Long. 47 56'.

7th.--Moderate breeze, and clear weather: wind easterly, with a head sea.

178 miles. Lat. 48 12'; Long. 44 17'.

8th.--Strong S.E. gales: dark gloomy weather, and heavy N.E. swell.

214 miles. Lat. 49 0'; Long. 39 0'.