Jane Grigson's Fish Book Part 21

The alternative, if you have long wooden skewers, looks more attractive, and is what a j.a.panese cook would do. Put the fish on a board, heads to the left. Push in a skewer just below the eye, pa.s.s it through the fish and through the tail, curving it up slightly. The second skewer goes in below the first and should emerge underneath the tail. These skewers hold the upward curve of the tail. Rub the fish over again with salt, particularly around the tail. Grill over charcoal if possible, or under a preheated grill, cooking the 'front', i.e. head-to-the-left side, first.

To serve, put on a serving plate, remove the foil and skewers and decorate with lemon slices or white radish grated into threads as fine as angel's hair scattered with a few pinches of chopped parsley.

For a dipping sauce for fish, which is by no means essential, mix together: 6 tablespoons shoyu (j.a.panese soy sauce)2 tablespoons rice vinegar or or white wine vinegar white wine vinegar1 tablespoon fresh peeled ginger, grated Divide between six little pots.

SASHIMI I.

Of all the ways of eating fish, this is the best. But and there is a but especially as far as Britain is concerned the fish must be fresh, sparkling almost. On the fishmonger's slab, it should look irresistible, scales gleaming, skin pearly and full of light.

Always try to buy two contrasting tones and textures of fish. Three is even better. Favourites are sea bream, the better flounders and flatfish, tuna, mackerel, cuttlefish, and in j.a.pan and the Pacific two Sillago Sillago species, the Indian or Silver whiting and the Trumpeter whiting, as well as half-beak ( species, the Indian or Silver whiting and the Trumpeter whiting, as well as half-beak (Hemirhamphus marginatus) which is similar to flying fish in flavour and texture.

As the fish for sashimi are not cured in the sense that gravadlax is cured with salt, sugar and dill, the accompanying sauce is important to show off the fish. A number of French chefs have taken the whole idea over and transformed the look of the dish: they tend to slice the fish paper-thin, arrange it on plates like smoked salmon, and brush it over with flavoured oils and lemon juice just before serving. Another popular style, especially with salmon, is to chop the fish into tiny dice and mix it with a very little mayonnaise and herbs: delicate quant.i.ties are heaped into minute tartlet cases or on to circles of b.u.t.tered bread or piled more generously on to bitter salad leaves. Such dishes will be called marinaded sea ba.s.s or salmon tartare, and I imagine that their particular arrangement is to disguise from western sensibilities the raw nature of the fish. Everybody, or so I imagine, knows that it is raw, but their eyes are not a.s.sailed. And that makes all the difference. There is no barrier between them and the delicious tasting reality.

With sashimi, the raw nature of the fish is directly apparent. What makes it acceptable is the seductive brilliance of really fresh fish and the beauty of the slicing and general arrangement, including the choice of the bowl or plate. I shall never forget reading an observation of D. H. Enright's in his book on j.a.pan, that even the most untutored housemaid knows how to present food with elegant grace. By contrast most of us are cack-handed in such matters. But it is fun to try.

If you are filleting whole fish, say a sea bream, cut off the two sides from the bone, skin them and then, if they are from a good-sized fish, divide the fillets down their length. Use the plumpest part for preference. With enormous fish, buy a nicely shaped piece of fillet. Scallops are excellent for sashimi: choose well-formed discs and trim them neatly, and slice them across once or twice according to their thickness.

Here are some of the cuts beginners will find it easiest to chill the softer fish until it is firm in the freezer, but do not freeze it completely or attempt to use frozen fish.

(1) cut down straight into -cm (-inch) slices(2) cut these straight slices across into strips and pile them in a small mound(3) cut the strips across again into dice a good cut for firm fish like tuna(4) slice diagonally downwards in paper-thin slices(5) cut down at a slight angle into -cm (-inch) slices(6) with squid or cuttlefish, cut a flat piece from the bag, make parallel cuts almost but not quite through, then slice completely through at right angles; you can then curve each strip round slightly in a c.o.c.k's-comb effect.

Straight cut slices may be served as they were cut, in a close piece. Diagonal slanting slices are arranged like overlapping tiles. Dice, like the strips, can be heaped into little mounds. Scallop discs could be fanned, and a piece or two of squid used as a decoration.

Serves 6750 g (1 lb) sea bream or or 500 g (1 lb) sole 500 g (1 lb) sole250 g (8 oz) slice of pink tuna or or 375 g (12 oz) mackerel 375 g (12 oz) mackerel6 fine scallops, white part only10-cm (4-inch) length white radish, peeled1 tablespoon wasabi (green horseradish powder) or or 2 tablespoons peeled and finely grated green ginger 2 tablespoons peeled and finely grated green ginger . .6 spring onions, cut into curly brushesSAUCE6 tablespoons shoyu (j.a.panese soy sauce)6 tablespoons lime juice Scale, fillet and skin the whole fish. Skin the tuna. Wrap in cling film and chill until very firm up to 2 hours in the freezer. Peel and finely shred the white radish.

No more than an hour before the meal, mix the wasabi to a thick paste with a little water, then let it stand for 20 minutes. If you choose ginger, form it into six little cone-shaped mounds.

Remove the fish from the freezer and cut it into appropriate slices with a very very sharp knife. Use tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for fish stock.

TO SERVE Either arrange the fish on six cold plates with a blob of wasabi or a mound of ginger and a loose heap of shredded radish. Decorate with a spring onion brush, and serve bowls of the shoyu and lime juice mixed together. Or else arrange the fish elegantly on one central serving plate, and give each person a tiny bowl of sauce. You could make a sunflower of thin slices of sea bream or ba.s.s, with an inner circle of pink tuna or mackerel slices, and a central blob of wasabi. The idea is to help yourself from the plate to a piece of fish, with chopsticks or a fork, dip it into the sauce and then eat it. Either arrange the fish on six cold plates with a blob of wasabi or a mound of ginger and a loose heap of shredded radish. Decorate with a spring onion brush, and serve bowls of the shoyu and lime juice mixed together. Or else arrange the fish elegantly on one central serving plate, and give each person a tiny bowl of sauce. You could make a sunflower of thin slices of sea bream or ba.s.s, with an inner circle of pink tuna or mackerel slices, and a central blob of wasabi. The idea is to help yourself from the plate to a piece of fish, with chopsticks or a fork, dip it into the sauce and then eat it.

TO MAKE SPRING ONION BRUSHES Cut the lower part of spring onions into 34-cm (1-inch) lengths, keeping the green tops for another occasion. Slice one end of each piece down about halfway, then slice across it. Put the pieces into a covered plastic box of ice water. Store in the refrigerator, and in a little while the cut ends will curl. Drain and serve. Cut the lower part of spring onions into 34-cm (1-inch) lengths, keeping the green tops for another occasion. Slice one end of each piece down about halfway, then slice across it. Put the pieces into a covered plastic box of ice water. Store in the refrigerator, and in a little while the cut ends will curl. Drain and serve.

SASHIMI II.

Here is another way of preparing fish for sashimi, in which the skin sides of the fillets are partially cooked.

Use fillets of fish that are not too thick. Sea bream for instance, but not tuna which is too solid and meaty. Sea ba.s.s would be a good alternative.

Cut the fillets, leaving the skin in place, and cut each fillet lengthways in two pieces. Put them on a heavy chopping board, skin side up. Tilt the board in a sink. Bring a kettle of water to the boil and pour it slowly over the fish and the skin will contract. Rinse in cold water, dry thoroughly and then remove the skin before slicing the fish.

Serve with shredded white radish and shoyu, or soy sauce mixed with an equal amount of lemon or lime juice.

SEA BREAM BAKED IN SALT.

Choose a pot into which the sea bream, or other fish, fits with about 3 cm (1 inches) to spare all round. Line with heavy or doubled foil. Put 3 cm (1 inches) of salt in the bottom. Place the fish in the pot and pour in enough salt to bury it completely, with a 2-cm (1-inch) layer on top. Put in a preheated oven, gas 89, 230240C (450475F), and leave for 30 minutes for a larger mackerel, or other fish weighing 500 g (1 lb).

Turn out on to a large baking sheet. Tap it carefully with a hammer. Brush off the salt and serve.

SEA EAR see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... ABALONE ABALONE SEA PERCH see see SEA Ba.s.s SEA Ba.s.s SEA-URCHINS see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SEA-URCHINS SEA-URCHINS SHAD see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SHAD SHAD

SHARKS-PORBEAGLE, MAKO & TOPE Lamna nasus, Isurus oxyrinchus & Galeorhinus galeus [image]

To see a shark brought low on a marble slab is disturbing; as if the wildness of the sea can no longer be relied on, when such creatures are harvested, or caught like cattle. Scientists, too, have taken away our fantasies. They a.s.sure us that sharks, requiem sharks in particular, do not all deserve their tolling name of doom. They do not hover behind ships waiting for a careless lurch overboard. We shall never see a shark swimming off with a dinner-jacketed arm protruding from its awful jaws, like the mousetail from a cat's. One writer ominously remarks that they are 'not averse to dead meat'. Another says that it is the ship's garbage they are after. They are no more than a scavenging nuisance. Think of it the man-eating shark a nuisance and no more. They spoil fishing nets and gnaw pointlessly at the profitable shoals of herring; they gobble the bait from the lines. Not much Melville or Moby d.i.c.k Moby d.i.c.k here. here.

As far as the cook is concerned, there are no horrors either; shark is delicious and easy to prepare. The two kinds I first came across are undoubtedly only a couple amongst a number that are worth trying. Admittedly neither was in the first rank of fish sole, lobster, turbot, salmon, eel and so on but both were above the ordinary humdrum level. As well as good flavour and texture, they have the advantages of no bones, beyond a central spine and its few attachments, and of cheapness. This latter must be a reflection of conservative taste and poor cooking ability, because sharks are a rare fish by comparison with the daily fare of saithe, ling, etc.

We first saw the immense porbeagle, or a part of it, at the Wednesday market in Montoire. Its matt velour-like skin stood out among the scaly fish and white fillets around it. The fishmonger's wife explained that it is called taupe taupe in France on account of this mole-coloured skin (which makes an excellent s.h.a.green). Then she turned the piece towards us so that we could see the pale pink, lightly fibred flesh. 'It's just like veal,' she said. 'We sometimes call it in France on account of this mole-coloured skin (which makes an excellent s.h.a.green). Then she turned the piece towards us so that we could see the pale pink, lightly fibred flesh. 'It's just like veal,' she said. 'We sometimes call it veau de mer veau de mer.' She took her great knife across the piece, then cut a section the right size for our small family of three. 'Treat it like veal,' she called after us. We found that she was right; the flavour is so delicate, and the texture so substantial, that I think few people would realize they weren't eating meat.

Americans will find the pink, veal-like quality of porbeagle in the mako shark which is sometimes, I believe, sold as 'swordfish' though it is deeper in tone. Sharks of several species become more and more popular on both coasts: 'the public has accepted shark on its own terms. It is no longer the bargain it was a few years ago,' say the authors of The California Seafood Cookbook The California Seafood Cookbook, 'but it is still reasonably priced.'

Confusion in the matter of sharks comes, at least for shoppers in Europe, with tope. It is tempting to believe it is the fish that one sees in French markets labelled taupe taupe, which see see above is the name for porbeagle. Once you have seen both, you understand instantly that they cannot be the same (and indeed the tope is above is the name for porbeagle. Once you have seen both, you understand instantly that they cannot be the same (and indeed the tope is milandre milandre or or ha ha in French). What amuses me is that the great national dictionaries on either side of the Channel are defeated by the names but then neither is very good at food words, as if eating were a shameful need of nature that a person of intellect should despise. The in French). What amuses me is that the great national dictionaries on either side of the Channel are defeated by the names but then neither is very good at food words, as if eating were a shameful need of nature that a person of intellect should despise. The Grand Robert Grand Robert ignores it, concentrating on ignores it, concentrating on taupe taupe as mole, with all the mining derivatives you could imagine. At least the vaster as mole, with all the mining derivatives you could imagine. At least the vaster Oxford English Dictionary Oxford English Dictionary gives a little s.p.a.ce to 'tope', confessing weakly that its origin is obscure, Cornish dialect, since tope is much caught off the Cornish coast: then it goes on cheerily to columns on 'tope' (verb) and 'topers' (noun), cheerful drinking words of known ancestry. gives a little s.p.a.ce to 'tope', confessing weakly that its origin is obscure, Cornish dialect, since tope is much caught off the Cornish coast: then it goes on cheerily to columns on 'tope' (verb) and 'topers' (noun), cheerful drinking words of known ancestry.

Oddly enough, the first tope we ever saw was in Oxford market. There were a couple of them, about 1 m (5 feet) long, slender compared to the tight swelling girth of the porbeagle. Tope are much whippier, more like a dogfish in shape. These two creatures laid low were dark on the back, but with a brownish tinge, fading to a strange old-rose colour on their bellies which reminded me of curtains my grandmother had in the thirties when old-rose was a favourite colour in furnishing. The flesh, though, was translucent and white. It cl.u.s.tered in tight sections around the central bone, a brilliant rosette. My only regret was that we never thought to ask for the fins, we were so taken aback at seeing shark on a fishmonger's slab at all.

In Ceylon and the Philippines they are treated with hot wood ash and fine salt, then dried to a brittle blue-grey crispness in smoke or sun. At last they go to Chinese cooks to be made into soup, a valued ingredient on account of their fine-tasting gelatine (flavour comes from other items, including pork).

The tope is called Sweet William in some places, sarcastically on account of its ammoniac smell. Something to look out for, but don't let it put you off. It is not the poor tope's fault, but part of its physical make-up which cannot be helped. It does not impugn its freshness, or the eventual pleasure of its flavour. Just take care to marinade the fish before cooking in lime or lemon juice, or cider or wine vinegar. Soaking in brine see see tuna, tuna, p. 429 p. 429 also gets rid of it. also gets rid of it.

Next point, there is no mileage in eating shark's skin endless tough chew, so always remove it.

Having arrived at this point, the rest is easy. You can adapt it without fuss to swordfish, tuna and halibut recipes, just be careful not to overcook it.

A Californian idea is to dry-fry it in a saute pan that has been warmed up with a tablespoon of oil, adding a couple of skinned chopped tomatoes: serve scattered with basil and a bowl of pesto.

Steaks can be briefly fried in clarified b.u.t.ter and served finished like Sole meuniere (p. 388). Or they can be first be dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, then fried, and served with lemon quarters, or a puree of sorrel*. Tomato sauce* and creole sauce* are obvious partners, so are white wine sauces* and b.u.t.ter sauces*.

These shark can be given a delicate treatment, or something more jovial. Because they are not yet too expensive, you can have fun experimenting with them. Some of the curried fish recipes in this book pp. 174 pp. 174 and and 404 404 might first be tried with porbeagle or tope or mako. Or the strange and sweet Sicilian swordfish pie, might first be tried with porbeagle or tope or mako. Or the strange and sweet Sicilian swordfish pie, p. 412 p. 412.

BARBECUED SHARK.

This is a dish that makes a lively family meal.

Serves 4750 g (1 lb) sharksalt, pepperjuice of 2 lemons (see (see recipe recipe)8 tablespoons olive oil (see (see recipe recipe)6 rashers bacon, smoked or green, or both250 g (8 oz) mushrooms, halved4 large bay leaves, each cut into 4 piecesolive oil or melted b.u.t.ter for basting Skin and cut the shark into a number of similar sized chunks, divisible by four. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Marinade them, if there is time, with the juice of 2 lemons and about 8 tablespoons olive oil.

Preheat the grill to maximum.

Cut the rind from the bacon and cut it into the same number of pieces as there are chunks of shark, plus four.

Lay out the shark and bacon, alternating in four rows on a board, fitting pieces of mushroom and bay leaf in between in an equitable manner. Now it is an easy matter to thread the skewers. Brush with oil or b.u.t.ter and grill, turning at least once, until the edges are nicely caught and the fish turns just opaque at the centre. Serve with rice, and melted b.u.t.ter, plenty of pepper and lemon quarters.

SPICED PORBEAGLE.

All the sharks take very well to spices. Try this recipe, too, with monkfish and halibut.

Serves 66 steaks4 dry red chillis2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic3 teaspoons c.u.min seeds teaspoon ground tumeric2 teaspoons tamarind paste or pulp2 teaspoons brown sugar1 teaspoons saltclarified b.u.t.ter or or sunflower oil sunflower oil Put the steaks on a dish in a single layer. Reduce the spices, garlic, tamarind, sugar and salt to a paste in a mortar and spread over the fish on both sides. Leave for at least 4 hours.

Brush a non-stick frying pan over with b.u.t.ter or oil and cook the steaks in it, adding extra b.u.t.ter or oil if necessary when turning them. Serve with a cuc.u.mber raita (p. 183) and rice.

TOPE EN BROCHETTE.

The diameter of the steaks we bought was about 15 cm (6 inches). I found that five of them gave enough for six people. Marinading them for several hours, even overnight, improves their flavour: remove the skin and cut each piece into six chunks. Put them into a dish and pour over equal quant.i.ties of olive oil and lemon juice, with seasoning and, if you like, chopped garlic. You will also need: Serves 66 long thin rashers green streaky bacon, each cut into 5 pieces6 long thin rashers smoked streaky bacon, each cut into 5 pieces12 or 18 small mushrooms6 large bay leaves, each cut into 4 piecessalt, pepper Drain and arrange the chunks of fish into 6 lines, and fit the rest of the ingredients equitably between them, including the bay leaves. It is an easy matter to thread and season the skewers. Grill until the fish is opaque to the centre, turning regularly and brushing with the remaining marinade. Serve with rice.

SHRIMPS see see PRAWNS PRAWNS SILVER HAKE see see HAKE HAKE SILVERSIDE see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SMELT SMELT SKATE see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SKATE SKATE SMELT see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SMELT SMELT

SOLE, DAB & PLAICE.

[image]

It must be confessed that the life history of the sole is not entertaining, delicious though it may taste. Mostly it lies supine on the bed of the sea, dark side up, attracting as little attention as possible. Its name means 'flat', like the sole of the foot. The most dramatic episode of its life to the outside observer is when the left eye of the perfectly normal, fish-shaped larva moves up and over the head to the right side, as the sole flattens into its characteristic shape. But then, this happens to the humblest of the flatfish, one way or the other (sometimes the right eye moves to the left side, as with the turbot). The sole also shares the chameleon quality of other flatfish, though not with such enthusiasm as the plaice, whose rust-coloured spots change to white when it lies on a pebbly patch of the sea-bed.

But why should we expect the sole to astonish or entertain us, to provide us with the pleasures of intellectual excitement? Such expectations seem tawdry by comparison with its gift of exquisite flavour and firm but dissolving texture. The sole is the darling of the sea, of all the things we eat the greatest stimulus to chefly lyricism. It is cherished in cream and good wine, set off by muscat grapes, truffles, mushrooms and sh.e.l.lfish, yet is arguably as its most beautiful when unadorned by amorous attentions, when served a la meuniere or plainly grilled, with no more fuss than a few pieces of lemon.

The secret of the sole's flavour is, it appears, no more than an accident of chemistry. 'The palatability of a fish,' explains J. R. Norman in A History of Fishes A History of Fishes, 'is due to the presence of some peculiar chemical substance in the muscles which gives it its characteristic flavour... In the Plaice, as in most other fishes, the chemical substance is present in the flesh when the fish is alive, but unless it is eaten soon after capture this soon fades away and the flesh becomes comparatively tasteless. In the Sole, on the other hand, the characteristic flavour is only developed two or three days after death in consequence of the formation of a chemical substance by the process of decomposition; thus it forms a tasty dish even when brought long distances.'

What a shame that this accident should not have happened to the superabundant plaice (Pleuronectes platessa). In Europe every year between 100 and 120 thousand tons of plaice are landed, over four times the weight of sole, and more than all the other flatfish put together.

For the practical cook, flatfish fall into two different groups, small (sole, plaice, dabs) and enormous (halibut and turbot). Recipes therefore designated for sole in this chapter can also be used for dabs and plaice. I have to say, however, that for the lover of good things, the groups given above are immaterial. There are only two flatfish the sole and the turbot. They shine out among all the fish of the sea. Whilst plaice can be cooked in the manner of sole (and brill in the manner of turbot), they won't taste the same. Some restaurateurs subst.i.tute weever for sole, so it is worth enquiring about sole dishes, see see p. 491 p. 491. Which is not to say that they won't be enjoyable and worth eating, especially if the sauces are good.

Here are some of those other flatfish which may be cooked in the style of the true sole (Solea solea) but need more culinary attentions: THE DAB This is called a This is called a limande limande in French, and has more right to the name, seeing that it is in French, and has more right to the name, seeing that it is Limanda limanda Limanda limanda in scientific terminology (from the Latin in scientific terminology (from the Latin lima lima, a file, on account of its rough skin).

THE FLOUNDER OR FLUKE This fish has a poor reputation, and is not particularly good to eat, though it hardly deserves one description which compares it to wet flannel. I suppose one must here specify European flounder because in America 'flounder' includes a number of flatfish that can be good eating when they are freshly caught. The names vary in different parts of the US, but the most common varieties are black back (winter) flounder, summer flounder (fluke), dab (yellowtail), gray sole and lemon sole. This fish has a poor reputation, and is not particularly good to eat, though it hardly deserves one description which compares it to wet flannel. I suppose one must here specify European flounder because in America 'flounder' includes a number of flatfish that can be good eating when they are freshly caught. The names vary in different parts of the US, but the most common varieties are black back (winter) flounder, summer flounder (fluke), dab (yellowtail), gray sole and lemon sole.

LEMON SOLE This has the delightful Latin name of This has the delightful Latin name of Microstomus kitt Microstomus kitt, and a decidedly yellowish-brown appearance. Again, it is not a true sole. Other names are merry or Mary Sole, and sweet fluke. The French name is sole-limande sole-limande, which is thoroughly confusing because the French name for the dab is so similar.

MEGRIM, WHIFF WHIFF, SAIL SAIL-FLUKE, OR WEST COAST SOLE OR WEST COAST SOLE This has a thinner, translucent appearance, and the name of This has a thinner, translucent appearance, and the name of Lepidorhombus whiffiagonis Lepidorhombus whiffiagonis there's invention for you and there's invention for you and cardine cardine in French. in French.

TORBAY SOLE OR WITCH A beautiful pinkish-purple marble-skinned creature, not unlike the sole in its blunted shape. You can be caught out both by the name and appearance of this fish, if you are not too familiar with the true sole. The French name is A beautiful pinkish-purple marble-skinned creature, not unlike the sole in its blunted shape. You can be caught out both by the name and appearance of this fish, if you are not too familiar with the true sole. The French name is plie grise plie grise.

The average weight of a sole is about 375 g (12 oz). Some are larger, some can be tiny. In France we buy very cheaply minute creatures, 710 cm (34 inches) long, called seteaux seteaux. They are a true sole and quite good eating for this reason, in spite of their small size. They are not, as we at first thought, infant Dover soles, but a species on their own, first recognized I believe by Jonathan Couch, the great naturalist of Polperro in Cornwall, in the last century.

At present prices, a 500 g (1 lb) sole has to do for two people. For a meal which may have several courses, this is not unreasonable. Better to eat a small amount of something delicious (and fill the corners up with some good bread) than a lot of something mediocre. Ask the fishmonger to skin it for you, and grab the skin before he throws it into the waste bucket; this will give you the opportunity of asking him for the bones and skin of other flatfish which he has filletted already, so that you have the all-important basic material for fish stock for the sauce.

If you have to skin the fish yourself, or produce fillets, see the instructions on p. 4 p. 4.

FILETS DE SOLE a LA NORMANDE.

If a dish requires extra time and attention, a cookery writer is supposed to be apologetic. I fail to see why. People spend hours developing photographs in a dark room, or watching birds. Why shouldn't a cook be allowed to enjoy an hour or two with an interesting occupation? Sole normande is certainly that. Purists may complain that it can only taste as it should in Normandy (on account of the b.u.t.ter and cream there, which differ from ours in texture and flavour). In fact the dish was probably invented in Paris by Careme not by a fisherman stirring his iron pot over a driftwood fire in a smoky cabin. Of course nowadays the dish in one form or another is on the menu of most self-respecting Normandy restaurants a tribute to modern communications and cross-fertilization rather than to authenticity.

Serves 6fillets of 3 large sole or or 1 kg (3 lb) brill or turbot fillets 1 kg (3 lb) brill or turbot filletssalt, pepper125 g (4 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine or or cider cider36 mussels or or oysters oysters24 b.u.t.ton mushrooms1 tablespoon lemon juice450 ml (15 fl oz) veloute sauce*125 ml (4 fl oz) creme fraiche or or double cream double cream4 egg yolks Grease a heatproof dish with b.u.t.ter paper, put in the fish fillets in a single layer and season them. Dot them with 15 g ( oz) b.u.t.ter and pour on the wine or cider. Open the mussels, if used, over a high heat, as briefly as possible (see p. 239 p. 239). Discard the sh.e.l.ls and strain the liquor through a cloth over the fillets. With oysters, open them and simmer them briefly in their liquor; strain the liquor over the fillets. Keep the mussels or oysters warm. Either simmer the fish on top of the stove for 34 minutes or in a hot oven at gas 6, 200C (400F) until it is half-cooked.

Meanwhile, cook the mushrooms in 45 g (1 oz) b.u.t.ter with the lemon juice and seasoning. Strain the liquor into the veloute sauce. Keep the mushrooms warm. Pour off the liquor from the fish into the sauce and reduce this sauce back to its original volume.

Arrange the fish on a warm, heatproof serving dish and surround it with a border of the mussels or oysters and mushrooms. Put b.u.t.ter papers or greaseproof paper over the top and leave it to keep warm in a low oven. It will continue to cook gently. Preheat the grill to its maximum temperature. Bring the creme fraiche just to the boil, if using it.

To complete the sauce, beat the egg yolks with half the creme fraiche or cream, add some of the sauce and then stir the cream mixture into the pan. Keep stirring while the sauce thickens over a low heat, without letting the sauce boil. Stir in the rest of the creme fraiche or cream to taste and then off the heat the last of the b.u.t.ter, cut into cubes. Check seasoning.

Spoon some of the sauce carefully over the fish, inside the border of sh.e.l.lfish and mushrooms. Put the serving dish under the grill for a few moments to glaze (don't brown it). Serve the rest of the sauce in a separate jug.

VARIATION Soles a la Dieppoise: Subst.i.tute 250 g (8 oz) sh.e.l.led, cooked prawns or langoustines for the mushrooms. Heat through in b.u.t.ter. Make stock from the sh.e.l.ls and add to the sauce. Scatter with chopped parsley before glazing. Soles a la Dieppoise: Subst.i.tute 250 g (8 oz) sh.e.l.led, cooked prawns or langoustines for the mushrooms. Heat through in b.u.t.ter. Make stock from the sh.e.l.ls and add to the sauce. Scatter with chopped parsley before glazing.

FILET DE SOLE MARGUERY.

Marguery's, on the Boulevard de Bonne-Nouvelle in Paris, was a famous restaurant of the Belle epoque. It was celebrated for its picturesque rooms, 'some oriental, others medieval, yet others recalling Potsdam', for its lively and loquacious and mixed clientele and for the great dish of Filets de sole Marguery.

Everyone was after the 'secret'. Chefs all over Europe and America tried to imitate it. Every cookery book of the time had some stab at the recipe. One enthusiast who persuaded the recipe out of Monsieur Marguery was Claude Monet. He gave wonderful dinners in his yellow dining-room at Giverny, and undoubtedly saw how good the dish would look as well as taste on the yellow- and blue-rimmed dinner service he had designed for himself.

A much odder, greedier enthusiast was Diamond Jim Brady of New York, a man whose diamond rings matched his appet.i.te. His favourite restaurant was Rector's in New York. One night someone in his party there rhapsodized about the wonderful dish he had recently eaten at Marguery's. This caught Brady's imagination. Indeed, it became an obsession, and he delivered an ultimatum to Rector: 'If you cannot put this dish on your menu, I shall go elsewhere.'

A serious business. Rector removed his son from Cornell University and sent him off to Paris as a gastronomical spy. The boy started at Marguery's as a dishwasher, plongeur plongeur, lowest of the low, and worked his way up. After two years he reached the magic circle and the recipe, and set off home. As the boat sailed towards the dock, he could make out Diamond Jim on the quay, bellowing 'Have you got the recipe?'

That night Diamond Jim ate nine helpings of Filet de sole Marguery. He went to the kitchen to congratulate the chef: 'If you poured some of the sauce over a Turkish towel, I believe I could eat all of it.'

But what was the recipe? An American, James M. Andrews, pursued the story in the 1970s and happened to tell a friend, Nina Lobanov, about it. She in turn told her landlady, to amuse her one day when she was ill.

By extraordinary coincidence, this lady, Mrs Burmister, had visited the restaurant fifty years earlier in 1926, and charmed the recipe out of the maitre-chef, Monsieur Manguin, who had ruled the kitchen for over thirty years. And she had kept it.

Serves 42 large fillets of sole, trimmed bones, heads, etc.23 shallots, chopped1 sprig of thyme bay leaf2 sprigs of parsleysalt, white pepper375 ml (12 fl oz) dry white winegenerous 1 kg (2 lb) mussels400 g (14 oz) unsalted French b.u.t.ter6 egg yolksGARNISH500 g (1 lb) prawns, sh.e.l.led125 g (4 oz) winkles (optional) Put bones, tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, etc., into a pan with shallots and herbs, seasoning and two-thirds of the wine. Add water barely to cover. Boil steadily for 20 minutes, skimming. Strain into a measuring jug.

Clean and open mussels in the usual way (see p. 239 p. 239) with the remaining white wine. Discard sh.e.l.ls. Keep mussels covered in a cool oven. Strain liquor into a measuring jug.

With 60 g (2 oz) b.u.t.ter, grease a flameproof non-stick or enamel pan and b.u.t.ter a piece of greaseproof paper, cut to fit on top. Flatten the fillets slightly, season and put into the pan in a single layer. Pour on enough of the sole and mussel stock almost to cover. Put on the paper, b.u.t.ter side down, and half-cook over a steady heat. Take the pan off the heat and pour off the liquor into a measuring jug. Keep the sole under its paper. It will continue to cook in its own warmth.

Boil the stock down hard to a syrupy concentration, about 300 ml (10 fl oz), but go by flavour. This takes the place of lemon and wine vinegar in what is virtually a hollandaise sauce. Strain about 150 ml (5 fl oz), through muslin this time, into a pan, off the heat. The stock should still be hot. Beat in the yolks.

Dice the remainder of the b.u.t.ter and beat to a cream in another pan over a low heat. Gradually beat the b.u.t.ter into the egg and stock mixture, to make a thick sauce. Keep raising the pan from a low to a moderate heat, or use a bain-marie. Overheating will curdle the egg. Add extra stock and seasoning to taste.

With a fish slice, lift the sole on to a large hot serving dish. Arrange mussels, prawns and winkles, if used (provide pins and little bowls of water for washing fingers if you do), in three close but separate rows round the sole. Pour over enough sauce to cover generously, without swamping the garnish: serve the rest separately. Put the serving dish into a hot oven or under a preheated grill to glaze (not brown). Serve immediately, with bread and white wine.

The 'secret' of the dish as of most of the great chefs' recipes, I suspect is using the best ingredients with the special taste of one particular person. In this instance this means knowing exactly how much to reduce the fish stock, and exactly how much to add to the sauce for the finest result.

FILLETS OF SOLE SAINT-GERMAIN.

This is a delicious recipe for the summer when fresh tarragon is available for the sauce bearnaise.

Serves 6175 g (6 oz) b.u.t.ter12 fillets of soleseasoned flourbreadcrumbs500 g (1 lb) new potatoes, sc.r.a.ped and dicedsalt, peppersauce bearnaise*

First clarify the b.u.t.ter (see p. 14 p. 14), and strain it into a frying pan which is off the heat. Dip the sole fillets in flour and shake off all surplus. Pour off a little of the clarified b.u.t.ter into a bowl, and with a brush spread it over the sole fillets, then press them gently but firmly in breadcrumbs. Put the frying pan on to the heat and cook the potato dice, stirring them about so that they brown evenly. Keep the heat moderate. Season the potatoes when done.

Meanwhile, grill the sole under a low to moderate heat to avoid burning the breadcrumbs. Allow about 10 minutes, turning them over at half time.

Arrange the grilled sole on a serving dish, surround with the potatoes, and serve with sauce bearnaise (which the prudent cook will have made in advance of cooking the fish and potatoes, leaving it to keep warm over a pan of hot water. Hot, not boiling or even simmering water).

NOTE Grilled sole and potatoes fried in clarified b.u.t.ter can also be served with sauce Choron* which is a bearnaise flavoured with tomato puree. Sprinkle the potatoes with a little chopped parsley before arranging them on the serving dish. Grilled sole and potatoes fried in clarified b.u.t.ter can also be served with sauce Choron* which is a bearnaise flavoured with tomato puree. Sprinkle the potatoes with a little chopped parsley before arranging them on the serving dish.