Explorations in Australia Part 8

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition.

Mr. R.B. Waugh,

Master of Schooner Adur.

STARTING FOR EUCLA.

On Sunday, the 29th of May, all hands came ash.o.r.e to dinner. It was certainly a festive party under rather extraordinary circ.u.mstances, but it was heartily enjoyed. So far as we were concerned the future was more than usually uncertain; but there was no feeling of despondency, and we separated in the evening with mutual good wishes and hopes for the success of the expedition. I read Divine Service, and, situated as we were, a small party remote from civilization, I think we all felt more impressed than under ordinary circ.u.mstances would have been the case. We had rested for eleven days. Good food had restored the condition of the horses, and we rested in our camp in good spirits, ready for the work we were to begin on the following morning. My observations showed that we were in lat.i.tude 33 degrees 36 minutes 58 seconds South and longitude about 123 degrees 48 minutes East, the variation of compa.s.s from a number of azimuths being about 0 degrees 46 minutes westerly.

The narrative is now continued in extracts from my Diary:--

May 30th.

After bidding good-bye to the crew of the Adur, and to the two natives we have had with us from the Thomas River, who were now at the end of their country and were afraid to come any further with us, we left Israelite Bay en route for Eucla, and steered in a northerly direction for about fifteen miles over salt marshes and clay-pans, with dense thickets intervening, dest.i.tute of gra.s.s. I was obliged to make for the coast, and, following it for about eight miles, we camped close to it, without water or feed, and tied up our horses in lat.i.tude 33 degrees 17 minutes 17 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of Arcturus and a Bootes.

31st.

Saddled up at dawn and continued along the beach for four miles; came to a large sand patch, and found abundance of water by digging one foot deep in the hollows. Camped on east side of the sand-hills, with first-rate feed for the horses. By meridian alt.i.tude of sun, camp is in lat.i.tude 33 degrees 13 minutes 46 seconds South.

June 1st.

After starting the party, went with Tommy Windich to examine the country to the North-West, and then, travelling nine miles over salt marshes and samphire flats, with dense scrub intervening, we reached what is named on the Admiralty Charts The Front Bank, which, ascending, we found very steep and rough. At last, gaining the summit, the country receded to the north, level and thickly wooded, as far as the eye could reach. We travelled about four miles to the North-West, from where we ascended the range, and then climbed a tree to have a view of the country, which I found very level and thickly wooded with mallee. I therefore determined to turn east, and if possible, reach the party to-night. Accordingly, we reached the sea, and, following the tracks of the party, came up with them at about 10 p.m., encamped on North-East side of an immense sand-patch, about twenty-five miles from our last night's bivouac. There was abundance of water on the surface in the hollows of the sand-hills.

2nd.

There being no feed near camp, saddled up and continued towards Point Culver for four miles and camped, with only some coa.r.s.e gra.s.s growing on the white sand-hills for our very hungry horses. Found plenty of water by digging. This is a poor place for the horses: intend making a flying trip to the North-East to-morrow. By meridian alt.i.tude of sun and Arcturus, camp is in lat.i.tude 32 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds south, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes east.

3rd.

Started with my brother and Billy to examine the country to the North-East, and travelled in about a North-East direction for twenty-five miles over very level country, but in many places most beautifully gra.s.sed. We camped on a splendid flat, without water.

A VIEW OF THE SEA.

4th.

Started at dawn and travelled in a southerly direction for nine miles, when we found a rock water-hole containing one gallon, and had breakfast.

Continuing for four miles, we reached the cliffs, which fell perpendicularly into the sea, and, although grand in the extreme, were terrible to gaze from. After looking very cautiously over the precipice, we all ran back quite terror-stricken by the dreadful view. Turning our course westward along the cliffs, we reached camp at 5 o'clock, and found all well. We saw several natives' tracks during the day.

5th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. Read Divine Service. Intend making preparations to-morrow for starting on Tuesday morning, and attempt to reach the water shown on Mr. Eyre's track, in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, 150 miles distant, by carrying thirty gallons of water with us and walking in turns, so as to have the horses to carry the water. Intend allowing each man one quart and each horse two quarts per day. Feel very anxious as to the result, as it will take five or six days; but it is the only resource left. After explaining my views to my companions, and pointing out the great probability of our meeting with small rock water-holes, was much relieved by the sanguine way in which they acquiesced in the plans, and the apparent confidence they placed in me.

6th.

Filled the water-cans, and got everything ready for a start to-morrow morning.

7th.

Started at 9 a.m., carrying over thirty gallons of water with us. One of the drums leaked so much that we left it at camp. Travelled along our outward tracks of the 4th, and camped at our former bivouac, with splendid feed, but no water for our horses.

8th.

Started early, and steered about North-East through dense mallee thickets, dest.i.tute of gra.s.s or water, for eighteen miles. We came upon a small patch of open gra.s.sy land, and camped without water for our horses.

This is the second night our horses have been without water, but the gra.s.s has been fresh, and they do not yet appear to have suffered much.

Marked a tree at camp, F., 1870. My brother, I am sorry to say, left his revolver at our last night's bivouac, and did not notice it until this evening, when it was too far to send back to look for it. By meridian alt.i.tude of Arcturus, camp is in lat.i.tude 32 degrees 34 minutes 20 seconds south, and longitude 124 degrees 59 minutes east.

SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST.

9th.

Made an early start, steering North-East, and at one mile found a rock water-hole containing fifteen gallons, which we gave the tired, thirsty horses, and, continuing, chiefly through dense mallee thickets, with a few gra.s.sy flats intervening, for twenty-two miles, found another rock water-hole holding about ten gallons, which we also gave the horses, and, after travelling one mile from it, camped on a large gra.s.sy flat, without water for the horses. Our horses are still very thirsty, and have yet seventy miles to go before reaching the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. Am very thankful for finding the little water to-day, for if we had none, our situation would be somewhat perilous, and some of the horses would probably show signs of distress to-morrow. Lat.i.tude of camp, 32 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds South by Arcturus, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes East.

10th.

Steering East-North-East over generally open country, gra.s.sy flats, etc., thinly wooded, for twenty-one miles, found a small rock water-hole containing three gallons, which we put into our canteens. After travelling three miles further, camped on the edge of a gra.s.sy flat, and gave our horses half a gallon each from our canteens. Our horses appear fearfully distressed this evening. For the last ninety-six hours they have only had two gallons each. Lat.i.tude of camp 32 degrees 11 minutes 5 seconds South, longitude 125 degrees 37 minutes East.

11th.

Found, on collecting the horses, that four were missing. Those found were in a sad state for want of water, and there was not a moment to lose. I therefore at once told Tommy to look for those missing, and, after saddling up, sent the party on with my brother, with instructions to steer easterly for nearly fifty miles, when they would reach the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. I remained behind to await Tommy's return, and, after an hour's awful anxiety, was rejoiced to see him returning with the ramblers. We lost no time in following after the party, and at two miles came to a water-hole they had emptied and given to the horses (fifteen gallons), and at five miles overtook them. After travelling ten miles, found another water-hole with fifteen gallons, which we also gave our horses, they being still very thirsty. At fourteen miles found a water-hole holding three gallons, which we transferred to our canteens; and at fifteen miles camped on a small but very gra.s.sy flat, close to which we found a water-hole of ten gallons, which I intend giving the horses to-morrow morning. Although the horses are still very thirsty, they are much relieved, and are willing to feed. We all felt tired from long, weary, and continued walking. By meridian alt.i.tude of Arcturus, camp is in lat.i.tude 32 degrees 13 minutes South, and longitude 125 degrees 51 minutes East.

12th (Sunday).

After giving the horses the little water found by Tommy last evening, we struck a little to the south of east over generally gra.s.sy country, slightly undulating for three miles, when, being in advance, walking, I found a large water-hole with about 100 gallons of water in it. It being Sunday, and men and horses very tired, I halted for the day, as there was most luxuriant feed round camp. Our horses soon finished the water, and looked much better after it. Although now without water, we are in comparative safety, as the horses have had nearly sufficient. We are now only thirty-two miles from the water shown on Mr. Eyre's chart, in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. Lat.i.tude of camp 32 degrees 13 minutes 35 seconds South, and longitude 125 degrees 54 minutes East.

MEETING NATIVES.

13th.

Made an early start, and steering a little to the south of east, keeping straight for the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. At eighteen miles got a view of the sea, and beheld the sand-hills about fifteen miles ahead. Here we saw some natives' fires close to us.

Approaching them, we came upon an old woman, and my brother and Tommy soon brought a man to bay. There were about twenty round us; they appeared very frightened. After detaining them half an hour, and treating them as kindly as possible, we bade them farewell and continued our journey. The natives were entirely naked. After we left the natives, we came to where the cliffs leave the sea, in longitude 126 degrees 12 minutes East. From here Point Dover was clearly visible, and I cannot express my feelings when gazing on the scene. To the westward, those grand precipitous cliffs, from 200 to 300 feet high, and Point Dover, near which Mr. Eyre's overseer was murdered, could easily be discerned; and while thinking over his hardships and miseries, we turned our faces eastward, and there saw, within a few miles, the water we so much needed.

We then descended the cliffs and reached the sea sh.o.r.e, which we followed for about twelve miles, reaching the first sand-patch at about 10 o'clock p.m. There was good feed all around, but we could not, from the darkness, find any water. Gave our horses all we had with us, about fifteen gallons.

A GLIMPSE OF THE ADUR.

14th.

This morning searched the sand-patches for water, without success; I therefore packed up and proceeded towards another large patch, four miles distant, going in advance with Billy. After we left, Tommy found a place used by the natives, where water could be procured by digging. He, however, followed after Billy and myself. On reaching the sand-patch we saw the place where water could be procured by digging; we also found sufficient to satisfy our horses on some sandstone flats. We were soon joined by the party, who were overjoyed to be in perfect safety once more, and we were all thankful to that Providence which had guarded us over 150 miles without finding permanent water. We soon pitched camp, and took the horses to the feed, which was excellent. Returning, we were surprised to see a vessel making in for the land, and soon made her out to be the Adur. Although the wind was favourable for Eucla, she made in for the land until within about three miles, when she turned eastward, and, although we made fires, was soon out of sight. I afterwards ascertained that they were not sure of their longitude, having no chronometer on board, and therefore wished to see some landmark.

15th.

Dug two wells to-day, and found good water at seven feet from the surface. Lined them with stakes and bushes to keep them from filling in.

In the afternoon we all amused ourselves shooting wattle-birds, and managed to kill fifteen.

16th.

Dug another well and bushed it up, the supply from the two dug yesterday being insufficient, and obtained an ample quant.i.ty of splendid fresh water. By a number of observations, camp is in lat.i.tude 32 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds South, and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, the variation of compa.s.s being about 1 degree 6 minutes easterly. The horses are improving very quickly, there being splendid feed round the sand-patches.

17th.

Went with Tommy Windich for a walk eastward along the beach, and returned a little inland. Pa.s.sed over some patches of beautiful gra.s.sed country.

Saw a pine pole standing on one of the hummocks near the beach, probably erected by Mr. Eyre, as I am not aware of any one else having been here.

We could not find any of his camps, however; doubtless the sand has long since covered them.

18th.

Making preparations for a flying trip inland on Monday.

19th (Sunday).

Read Divine Service. Every appearance of rain.

20th.

Started this morning, in company with McLarty and Tommy Windich, to explore the country to the northward. The first twelve miles north was through very dense thickets and sandy hills, when we reached the cliffs, which we ascended with difficulty, and steering about North-North-East for the first three miles, through dense mallee thickets, we emerged into a generally gra.s.sy country, and travelled over beautifully-gra.s.sed downs.

We camped at a rock water-hole of fifteen gallons, about twenty-five miles from main camp.

21st.

Steering about north for one mile, we found a rock water-hole holding about thirty gallons; and continuing for thirteen miles over gra.s.sy plains, thinly wooded, the country became very clear and open, and at twenty-five miles there was nothing but plains, gently undulating, of gra.s.s and salt-bush in view. Far as the eye could reach to the North-West, North, and North-East, this clear and gra.s.sy country extended; and being now fifty miles from camp, with the prospect of finding water diminishing as we travelled northward, I determined to return. Accordingly struck South-West, and after travelling twelve miles found a small water-hole of three gallons, and camped for the night. Set watch as follows: myself 7 to 11, McLarty 11 to 3.30 a.m., and Tommy from 3.30 to 6 a.m. We found them rather long hours.