Explorations in Australia Part 7

22nd.

Early this morning we were looking for the tracks of the party, but without success; finally we returned eight miles to the Margaret River, and, after a good deal of searching, found the tracks almost obliterated by the rain, and followed along them. Upon nearing Stokes' Inlet we met Tommy Windich looking for us, he having seen the tracks and last night's bivouac. He informed me that they had camped about four miles westward of the inlet, and we had therefore pa.s.sed them in the dark last night. Made all haste to overtake the party; succeeded in doing so, after a great deal of trouble, one hour and a half after dark. Encamped on north side of Barker's Inlet, at a small well of water called Booeynup. We did justice to the supper, as we had not had anything to eat for thirty-two hours.

23rd.

For the first nine miles over scrubby sand-plains, kangaroos very numerous, when we came into and skirted a chain of salt lakes and marshes. Continuing over generally low country, well gra.s.sed, for five miles, we reached and camped at the old homestead of the Messrs.

Dempster, called Mainbenup.

ESPERANCE BAY.

24th (Sunday).

Left camp in company with Billy Noongale, and proceeded to Esperance Bay, distant twenty-four miles. On getting in view of the Bay, was much disappointed to see no schooner lying at anchor, and felt very anxious for her safety. Was very kindly received by Mrs. Andrew Dempster; the Messrs. Dempster being away on Mondrain Island.

25th.

Went several times up on the hill, looking out for the Adur, but was each time disappointed. On my return in the evening, found the party had arrived from Mainbenup, and had camped.

26th.

Rained very heavily all last night. Shifted camp over one mile west of homestead to a sheltered spot, where there was feed and wood. No signs of the Adur.

27th and 28th.

Rested at camp; the weather very stormy. The Messrs. Dempster returned from Mondrain Island this evening.

29th.

Shifted camp back to the homestead, and camped in a sheltered nook near the Head. On ascending the Look-out Hill this evening, was rejoiced to espy the Adur near Cape Le Grand, making in for the Bay, and at 8 o'clock went off in Messrs. Dempster's boat, and had the great pleasure of finding all hands well. They had experienced heavy weather, but everything was dry and safe. I cannot find words to express the joy and relief from anxiety this evening; all fears and doubts were at an end, and I was now in a position to attempt to carry out my instructions.

The Messrs. Dempster, whose hospitality was so welcome, are good specimens of the enterprising settlers who are continually advancing the frontiers of civilization, pushing forward into almost unknown regions, and establishing homesteads which hereafter may develop into important towns. In ten days we had journeyed 160 miles, and had enjoyed a foretaste of the nature of the country through which we should have to make our way. Four days' rest recruited our energies, and the arrival of the Adur, with stores, gave all the party excellent spirits.

The last day of April was occupied with landing the stores required for immediate use, and the following day, being Sunday, we rested, and, observing the practice adopted in my previous expeditions, I read Divine Service to a somewhat larger congregation than I generally had around me.

The horses had suffered from sore backs, the result of saddles being stuffed with straw; and on the two following days we were all busy restuffing them with wool, and I set Osborn, the farrier, to work to widen and alter the iron-work, so as to make the saddles more comfortable and easy to the horses. From the 3rd to the 8th of May we remained at Mr.

Dempster's, and I made a survey of his location, a tract of forty acres.

On Sat.u.r.day, the 7th, Mr. William Dempster left for Perth, and I had the opportunity of sending a report of our proceedings to that date to the Colonial Secretary, and also of forwarding private letters.

LAST DAY IN ESPERANCE BAY.

Sunday, the 8th, being our last day in Esperance Bay, was pa.s.sed quietly, all attending Divine Service at Mr. Dempster's house; and on the following morning we prepared to start on the second stage of our journey. The Adur was to meet us again at Israelite Bay, about 120 miles to the eastward; and here I resume the extracts from my Diary:--

May 9th.

After collecting the horses, we saddled up and started en route for Israelite Bay, where I had instructed the master of the Adur to meet us.

Bidding good-bye to our kind friends at Esperance Bay, travelled along the north sh.o.r.e for about eleven miles, when we left the coast and steered towards Mount Merivale, and camped at a spring on South-East corner of a salt sake, Mount Merivale bearing North 60 degrees East magnetic; Frenchman's Peak North 150 degrees East magnetic, and Remarkable Island North 196 degrees East magnetic. The country for the last few miles is beautifully gra.s.sed, with numerous brackish streams running through. Commenced keeping watch this evening, two hours each, from 8 p.m. to 6 o'clock a.m. Marked a tree with the letter F. at our bivouac.

10th.

Travelled nearly due East for twenty-four miles, through scrubby, sandy country without timber. Remarkable bare granite hills studded in every direction. Camped at a spring on South-East side of granite hills, resembling a saddle. Pa.s.sed Mount Hawes, leaving it a little to the north. From hill near camp, Mount Hawes bore North 295 degrees East magnetic, Mount Merivale North 278 degrees East magnetic, Frenchman's Peak North 243 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and the east side of Mondrain Island North 207 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic.

11th.

The horses having strayed back on the tracks last night, we were delayed till 10 o'clock, when only eight of them were brought in. Sent Tommy in search of the remainder, and, after waiting until 3 o'clock for his return, my brother, Osborn, and Billy went with seven horses and loads; instructed to camp at the first place where there was feed and water, there being no feed at this camp. McLarty and myself waited until Tommy returned, which he did at sundown, having had to go back twenty-four miles to the bivouac of the 9th. There being scarcely any feed here, and it being too late to follow after the party, we tied up our horses for the night. Found it rather long hours watching, namely, about four hours each. By meridian alt.i.tude of sun, camp is in lat.i.tude 33 degrees 90 minutes 49 seconds South.

12th.

Packed up and followed on the tracks of the party, and at ten miles found them camped on a branch of a creek which runs into Duke of Orleans Bay.

Brackish streams plentiful: scrubby, sandy country. By meridian alt.i.tudes of sun and Arcturus, camp is in South lat.i.tude 33 degrees 51 minutes 35 seconds.

THE ALEXANDER RIVER.

13th.

Travelled in an easterly direction towards Cape Arid, pa.s.sing at five miles a large creek, and at ten miles camped on a running brackish stream, which I named the Alexander. Scrubby open country most of the way. Shot a few ducks from thousands that are in these rivers.

14th.

Continuing a little to the south of East for ten miles, crossed a large brook, and at fourteen miles reached another creek. Followed it up a mile and camped on east side of a large salt lagoon, into which the brook empties. Splendid green feed around camp, but no water. Went with Billy to look for some, and, after going a mile and a half East, struck the Thomas River, where we met two natives, quietly disposed, who showed us the water, and, after filling our canteens, returned with us to camp.

15th (Sunday).

Shifted camp over to the Thomas River, one mile and a half, where there was plenty of water. Rained a little during the day. Gra.s.sy piece of country round camp--the first good feeding land seen since leaving Mount Merivale. About half a mile west of camp, Mount Ragged bore North 43 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, Mount Baring North 53 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, and South-West point of Cape Arid North 140 degrees 30 minutes East. By meridian alt.i.tude of sun, camp was in south lat.i.tude 33 degrees 50 minutes 7 seconds, and longitude about 123 degrees East. Billy shot five ducks this afternoon.

16th.

Got an early start and steered nearly East, accompanied by the two natives, over scrubby sand-plains for about twenty-one miles. We camped near the sea, a few miles to the westward of Cape Pasley. Filled our canteens about two miles back from where we camped, from which point Mount Ragged bore North 11 degrees East magnetic, Cape Pasley North 110 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and South-East point of Cape Arid North 214 degrees East magnetic.

17th.

Steering in an East-North-East direction for about nineteen miles, we camped near Point Malcolm, Mount Ragged bearing North 327 degrees East magnetic, and Point Dempster (Israelite Bay) North 35 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic. Hope to reach Israelite Bay to-morrow, as it is only sixteen miles distant. There was no water at Point Malcolm, but luckily we had filled our canteens. The wind was strong from the westward, accompanied with light showers all day. Tommy shot a kangaroo this evening, and the two natives who were travelling with us from the Thomas River did ample justice to the supper, literally eating the whole night.

ISRAELITE BAY.

18th.

After starting the party, went in advance with Billy to prepare camp at Israelite Bay. When we reached it were delighted to find the Adur lying safely at anchor there; proceeding on board, found all well. Procured abundance of water by digging one foot deep in the sand-hills, and good feed a short distance from camp.

Our friends on the Adur were looking anxiously for us. We were two days behind the appointed time, and they feared some evil had befallen us, not taking into consideration the many delays incidental to such a journey through strange and difficult country as we had made. We had occupied ten days in reaching Israelite Bay since leaving Mr. Dempster's station, going an average of about twelve miles a day, which would be a slow rate of progress in a settled country, but which had sufficiently tried our horses, they being now in a very reduced condition from scarcity of feed.

I resolved to stay at the camp for eight or ten days to recruit the horses, as there was good feed in the vicinity; and we re-stuffed and re-fitted the saddles and had the horses shod. I made a correct chart of the route from Esperance Bay, and found that the coast-line, as laid down in the Admiralty charts, was in many places incorrect.

On the 24th of May we determined to celebrate the Queen's birthday. All hands from the Adur came ash.o.r.e, and I drew them up in line under the Union Jack, which was duly hoisted near the camp. We presented arms; sang G.o.d Save the Queen vigorously, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns, finishing with three cheers. I venture to record that our vocal efforts were as sincerely and heartily made in the Australian wilderness as any which rang that day in any part of her Majesty's wide dominions. We were all highly delighted--not only feeling that we had done our duty as loyal subjects, but other celebrations in more civilized places were forcibly recalled to memory.

I had fixed the 30th as the time for our fresh start, and we had enough to do in packing bags, and making general repairs and improvements in our outfit. Eucla Bay, the only other point at which we should be able to communicate with the coaster, was 350 miles to the east of Israelite Bay.

The nature of the country was quite unknown, except so far as indicated by the not very encouraging record of Eyre's journey. We felt that we should inevitably have to encounter considerable difficulties, and perhaps even fail to reach Eucla. I deemed it right to give explicit directions to Mr. Waugh, the master of the schooner, so that, in the event of not meeting with us at the appointed place, he should have no difficulty as to the course to pursue, and to that end I gave him in writing the following instructions:--

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SCHOONER.

Israelite Bay, 28th May, 1870.

SIR,

It being my intention to start for Eucla on Monday, the 30th instant, I have the honour to direct you will be good enough to make arrangements for leaving this place on the 7th of June, wind and weather permitting, and sail as direct as possible for Port Eucla, situated in south lat.i.tude 31 degrees 43 minutes, and east longitude 128 degrees 52 minutes East.

You will remain at anchor in Port Eucla until the 1st September, long before which time I hope to reach and meet you there. No signs of myself or party appearing by that date, you will bury in casks under the Black Beacon, 400 pounds flour, 200 pounds pork, 100 pounds sugar, 10 pounds tea, and four bags barley, together with the remainder of our clothing on board. You will be careful to hide the spot of concealment as much as possible, or by any other means that may suggest themselves. Also you will bury a bottle containing report of your proceedings.

All these matters had better be attended to a day or two before, and on the 2nd of September you will set sail and return with all despatch to this place (Israelite Bay), where, if I have been obliged to return, I will leave buried a bottle at this spot (arranged by us yesterday), which will contain instructions as to your future proceedings.

No signs of our return being found here, you will sail for Fremantle, calling at Esperance Bay on your way.

On arriving in Fremantle, you will immediately report your return to the Honourable the Colonial Secretary, and forward him a report of your proceedings, after which your charter-party will have been completed.

These arrangements are chiefly respecting your proceedings in the event of our not reaching Eucla; and I may add that, although I have every hope of reaching there in safety, still it is impossible to command success in any enterprise, and I have to impress upon you the necessity of these instructions being carried out, as nearly as possible, to the very letter. Wishing yourself and crew a prosperous voyage, and hoping soon to meet you in Port Eucla,

I have, etc.,