Early Western Travels, 1748-1846, Volume XII Part 10

[157] See _ante_ (volume xi), note 25.--ED.

FINIS

WELBY'S VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA, MAY 5, 1819--MAY 10, 1820

Reprint of the original edition: London, 1821

[Ill.u.s.tration: Log Tavern, Indiana]

A VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA

AND

THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS IN ILLINOIS,

WITH A

Winter Residence at Philadelphia;

SOLELY TO ASCERTAIN THE ACTUAL PROSPECTS OF THE EMIGRATING AGRICULTURIST, MECHANIC, AND COMMERCIAL SPECULATOR.

BY ADLARD WELBY, ESQ

_South Rauceby, Lincolnshire._

"Nothing extenuate--nor aught set down in malice."

LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. DRURY, 36, LOMBARD STREET; BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY; AND G. AND W. B. WHITAKER; DRURY, STAMFORD, AND DRURY AND SON, LINCOLN.

1821.

TO THE RESPECTABLE PART OF HIS COUNTRYMEN RESIDING IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AS BEING THE BEST JUDGES OF THEIR TRUTH THE FOLLOWING OBSERVATIONS ARE DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR

PREFACE

Ever since the period of our war with North America, which ended in the independence of the United States, the attention of Europe has been intensely drawn to that portion of the globe; and many Philanthropists have entertained sanguine hopes that the declaration of Independence was the commencement of a new era of radical improvement to mankind--that the old Governments of the world, full of abuses, and unable to stand before the light of the new Republic, must soon fall before it; and that from America would triumphantly arise the Genius of true liberty, to glad and improve the condition of the nations of the earth. So ably were the whole negotiations conducted on the adverse side, both before {viii} and after the war, by a few shrewd and determined minds; and so effectually was the war concluded by a Washington, that the people of the old continent fancied the new one must be covered by Statesmen and Warriors, and hailed the approaching amelioration of mankind from the bright examples these were to send forth.

'Tis true the subsequent conduct of the Republicans, both to their leaders and towards ourselves, did not tend to keep up the admiration which had been raised; yet, other causes--the late events in Europe, having brought governments there into great difficulties, and mult.i.tudes of the people, from the intoxication of a short-lived prosperity, eventually to drain the cups of privation and poverty, many of these naturally turned their attention to other countries; and leaving their own, sought on foreign sh.o.r.es those comforts they had lost at home.

American liberty again became the theme of a cla.s.s of politicians among us; travellers of inquiry again went out to make observations; published their accounts, mostly of flattering import, and in consequence, {ix} ship-loads of emigrants from all the countries of Europe were constantly arriving in the ports of the new Republic.

One of the latest among the crowd of travellers who thus have set the fashion of emigration (Mr. Morris Birkbeck) has published his account, and has met with the greatest success in influencing the minds of his countrymen;--his "Letters from the Illinois," and previous "Journal,"

are written in a plain concise style, and yet dictated at the same time by an unperceived romantic sanguine temperament which always gives so beautiful a colouring to nature, and produces a work most fascinating to the mind.

These favourable accounts, aided by a period of real privation and discontent in Europe, caused emigration to increase tenfold; and though various reports of unfavourable nature soon circulated, and many who had emigrated actually returned to their native land in disgust, yet still the trading vessels were filled with pa.s.sengers of all ages and descriptions, full of hope, looking forward to the West as to a land of liberty and {x} delight--a land flowing with milk and honey--a second land of Canaan.

To inquire into the truth of so inviting a prospect as that held up by Mr. Birkbeck and some others, and in part to relieve the mind from evils of a domestic nature, the Author was induced in the year 1819 to embark for North America: he took in his hand the flattering accounts in print in order to compare them with his own actual observations; with the intent either to add his confirmation to the favourable side, or otherwise to exert his utmost to undeceive the many of his countrymen misled by specious reports.

With these views the journey was undertaken, and the annexed pages are the result; in perusing which the reader is requested to observe, that he will not find, strictly speaking, an emigrant's guide through the country, (although there are hints which it is hoped may be found useful,) but chiefly facts and reflections for consideration previous to going thither under the inducements held out by Mr. Birkbeck and others:--These hints, the Author is conscious, have not been conveyed {xi} in the most pleasing form, but he trusts, that if the matter be found important the manner will not be looked upon with the severity of a critic's eye.

To the Americans the Author wishes to address a few words, in order to a.s.sure them that, in the following observations, he has fully intended to guide his pen by the spirit of his motto: nor does he think them at all to blame in not coming up to the perfect model of a Republican which may be mentally pourtrayed; but rather ourselves are wrong in forgetting that they are not only men, but men placed in a new country, with all its difficulties, natural and moral, to overcome. If I picture to myself a giant and find a man of but ordinary proportions, is he to blame for this? Certainly not. The North Americans possess a fertile beautiful country and a fine climate: no one can wish for the improvement and the true enjoyment of these advantages more than the Author; he the more laments the apparent presence among them of a huge portion of blind conceit in their own superiority, and also the absence of the very essential Christian principle of good-will and benevolence; {xii} under the influence of which the truly great hold out the hand of good fellowship to the rest of mankind, regard them as brothers, and wish for "peace on earth, good-will toward men."

VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA

THE VOYAGE[1]

May 5th. Off Margate on board the Venus, bound for New York. This ship, which was to have sailed on 29th April, did not drop down the river until the 1st instant; and then, owing to an accident which befel the Steam Tug, did not reach Gravesend until Sunday the 2d. We had meanwhile repaired thither, and remained smarting under the extortionate charges of a Gravesend tavern. At length, on the Monday evening, the signal was displayed for sailing, and trunks, &c. having been previously sent on board, we took a {2} long leave of English ground, and proceeded with other pa.s.sengers to the ship; expecting, like unfledged Voyagers, to find everything in trim to receive us.

When agreeing with the Captain for the pa.s.sage, I had inquired if there were many other pa.s.sengers, and was then told there were "_a few_;"

previous to going on board the "few" had increased to "as many as convenient;" notwithstanding this hint, so inexperienced were we, that we were not in the slightest manner prepared for the scene presented to our appalled senses on rising the ship's side! Trunks, portmanteaus, packages of all kinds and descriptions, piled in all directions and in every way--a crowd of dirty squalid steerage pa.s.sengers, which appeared to our magnifying eyes at least five times the real number, (about 80)--altogether formed a ma.s.s through which we could not, without much difficulty, push our way to the cabin; and that accomplished, still more horrors presented themselves to view: instead of the carpet and good order which reigned there when I had examined the vessel while in dock, the dirty floor was covered now with nothing but trunks, bedding, and other baggage; giving an effect the most forlorn and petrifying to us all: so that we sat down upon broken chair, box, trunk, or anything we could, and glared upon each other {3} desponding as the fallen angels at their first drop!

Our fate, however, not merited like their's,--no; but we regarded our Captain as the arch-fiend and tormentor, and we gave him looks of reproach which pretty plainly said, "you have entrapped us into your abominable pit this time, but if we ever get out you will not do so again:"--However, I will not suppose he enjoyed our horror, but rather partook a little of the general feeling; for he sat, his eyes glaring as wildly as any of the party until at length, as nothing was offered to relieve the spirits, I proposed a biscuit and some porter, which were brought, and nearly in silence consumed; after which we each turned in for the night, and sought repose.

While engaged this morning writing the above in the cabin, the ship floating easily along under a pleasant little breeze, we suddenly felt a shock, followed by a rubbing along the bottom; the Captain started up, and was upon deck in a moment; the pa.s.sengers ran in all directions, and the appalling cry "we are aground" sounded on all sides! Happily, though such a mixed mult.i.tude, even the females betrayed but little fear, and most of the men lent every aid in their power; the {4} weather was favorable, and though the ship beat much, the bottom being sand and the tide rising, great hopes were entertained that she would get off. Had it happened in the night and the wind had come on to blow hard, we should in all probability have been lost; being day, we were descried from the sh.o.r.e, distant about ten miles, and boats of fishermen soon arrived to render a.s.sistance; but now a long previous altercation ensued between them and the Captain, before a bargain was struck: for a service which they acknowledged would not occupy more than half an hour, they first asked one hundred, and then sixty guineas.--Such is man when the consideration is the property of his fellow! Our lives they did not contemplate to be in danger, otherwise to save them these same men would have risked their own without thought of reward: so let us be in charity with human nature yet. At length, after an anxious interval to the pa.s.sengers, it was agreed that fifty guineas should be the price for getting the ship afloat; the word was given, and in twenty minutes of alacrity the bower anchor was carried out; the men exerted themselves at the capstern; the ship's head swung round; and after three or four violent b.u.mps of the stern upon the sand she heeled off and swam again.

Those who have experienced such accidents may know how people {5} feel at such a moment; mutual congratulations went round accompanied with internal thankfulness to that Providence, whose care is over all.[2]