Early English Meals and Manners Part 68

[Headnote: OF THE PANTER, THE LORD'S KNIVES, ETC.]

-- De panetario.

-- enne comes e pantere w{i}t{h} loues thre, at squar{e} are coruyn of trencho{ur} fre, 668 To sett w{i}t{h}-inne {and} oon w{i}t{h}-oute, And saller y-cou{er}yd and sett in route; W{i}t{h} o ouemast lofe h{i}t shall{e} be sett, [Fol. 24.]

W{i}t{h}-oute forthe square, w{i}t{h}-oute{n} lett; 672 Two keruyng knyfes w{i}t{h}-oute one, e thrydde to o lorde, and als a spone.

[Sidenotes: _Of the Panter._ [667] He carries 3 loaves cut square for trenchers, and the covered Saltcellar, 2 Carving-knives, and sets the 3rd, and a spoon to his lord.]

-- De Cultellis d{omi}ni.

-- Of o two o haftes schynne outwarde be, Of e thrydd e hafte inwarde lays he, 676 e spony stele {er} by schall{e} be layde; Moo loues of trenchirres at a brayde He settes, {and} seruys euyr in fer{e} To d.u.c.h.es his wyne {a}t is so der{e}. 680 Two loues of trenchors {and} salt o, He settes be-fore his son also; A lofe of trencho{ur}s and salt on last, At bordes ende he settes in hast. 684 en brede he brynges, in towell{e} wrythyn, Thre lofys of o wyte schall{e} be geuyn; A chet lofe to o elmys dyshe, We{er} he seruyd be w{i}t{h} flesshe or fysche; 688 At a{er} ende he castes a cope, Layde down on borde, e endys plyed vp.

That he a.s.sayes knelande on kne, o keru{er} hym parys a schyu{er} so fre; 692 And touches o louys y{n} quer{e} a-boute, o pantere hit etys w{i}t{h}-oute dowte; o euwer{e} thurgh towell{e} syles[49] clene His wat{er} into o ba.s.synges shene; 696 o ou{er} ba.s.syn {er}-on schall{e} close, A towell{e} {er}-on, as I suppose, {a}t folden schall{e} be w{i}t{h} full{e} grete lore, Two quart{er}s on lenketh{e} and su{m}dele mor{e}; 700 A qwyte cuppe of tre {er}-by shall{e} be, {er}-w{i}t{h} {o} wat{er} a.s.say schall{e} he; Quelmes[50] h{i}t agayn by-for{e} all{e} me{n}; o keru{er} e ba.s.synges tase vp enne; 704 Annaunciande sq{u}ier, or ellis a kny?t, o towell{e} down tase by full{e} good ry?t; o cuppe he tase in honde also, o keru{er} powres wat[er] e cuppe into; 708 The kny?t to o keru{er} haldes anon, He says h{i}t ar he m{o}r{e} schall{e} don; o cuppe en voyde is in o flette,[51]

e euwer h{i}t takes w{i}t{h}-oute{n} lette. 712 The towell{e} two kny?ht{is} schyn halde i{n} fer{e}, Be-fore e lordes sleues, at ben so der{e}; The ou{er} ba.s.syn ay halde neu{er} e queder, Quyll{e} o keru{er} powre wat{er} in-to e ned{ur}. 716 For a pype {er} is insyde so clene, {a}t wat{er} deuoydes, of selu{er} schene; en settes he e nethyr, I vnd[u]rstonde, In e ou{er}, and voydes w{i}t{h} bothe is honde; 720 And brynges to e euwer {er} he come fro; To o lordys bordes a?ayn con go; And layes iiij trencho{ur}s o lorde be-fore, e fyft aboue by good lore; 724 By hym self thre schall{e} he dresse, To cut opon e lordes messe; [Fol. 25.]

Smale towell{e} a-boute his necke shall{e} bene, To clens his knyfys {a}t ben so kene. 728

[Sidenotes: _Of the Lord's Knive, (_Bread, and Washing.)_ [675] The hafts of 2 are laid outwards, that of the 3rd inwards, and the spoon handle by it. [678] More trencher loaves are set, and wine served to the d.u.c.h.ess. [681] 2 Trencher-loaves, and salt, to the lord's son; and 1 loaf and saltcellar set at the end of the table. [685] Then 3 loaves of white bread are brought, and 1 coa.r.s.e loaf is put in the Alms-dish. [691] To a.s.say bread, the Panter kneels, the Carver cuts him a slice, and he eats it.

[695] The Ewerer strains water into his basins, on the upper one of which is a towel folded dodgily. [701] Then the water is a.s.sayed in a cup of white wood. [704] The Carver takes up the basins; a knight takes down the towel, and wipes the cup, into which the Carver pours water; the knight hands it to him; he a.s.says it, and empties the cup. [713] Two knights hold the towel before the lord's sleeves, and hold the upper basin while the Carver pours water into the lower; then he puts the lower into the upper, and empties both, takes them to the Ewerer, returns to the lord's table, lays 4 trenchers for him, with 1 above.

[725] The Carver takes 3 to cut the lord's messes on, and has a cloth round his neck to wipe his knives on.]

[Headnote: OF THE ALMONER AND DISH-SERVER.]

-- De Elemosinario.[52]

-- The aumener{e} by is hathe sayde g{ra}ce, And o almes dysshe hase sett in place; {er}-in e keru{er} a lofe schall{e} sette, To s{er}ue G.o.d fyrst w{i}t{h}-oute{n} lette; 732 ese o{er} lofes he parys a-boute, Lays h{i}t myd dysshe w{i}t{h}-oute{n} doute.

e small{e} lofe he cutt{is} eue{n} i{n} twynne, o ou{er} dole in two lays to hym. 736 The aumener{e} a rod schall{e} haue in honde, As office for almes, y vndurstonde.

Alle e broken met he kepys y wate, To dele to por{e} me{n} at e ?ate. 740 And drynke {a}t leues s{er}ued in halle; Of ryche {and} pore bothe grete {and} small{e}.

He is sworne to ou{er}-se e s{er}uis wele, And dele hit to e pore eu{er}y dele; 744 Selu{er} he deles rydand by way; And his almys dysshe, as I ?ou say, To e porest ma{n} {a}t he can fynde, O{er} ellys I wot he is vnkynde. 748

[Sidenotes: _Of the Almoner._ [729]: He says grace, sets down the Alms-dish, and the Carver puts the first loaf in it. [733] The other loaves he pares round, cuts one in two, and gives the upper half in halves to him.

[737] The Almoner has a staff in his hand. [739] He keeps the broken food and wine left, for poor men at the gate, and is sworn to give it all to them. [745] He distributes silver as he rides.]

-- De ferculario.

-- This wyle o squyer to kechyn shall{e} go, And brynges a bof for a.s.say o; o c.o.ke a.s.sayes e mete vngry?t, o sewer he takes and kou{er}s on ry?t; 752 Wo so eu{er} he takes {a}t mete to bere, Schall{e} not so hardy o cou{er}tour{e} rer{e}, For colde ne hote, I warne ?ou all{e}, For suspecyon of tresou{n} as may befalle. 756 Yf o sylu{er} dyssh{e} wyll{e} algate brenne, A sotelte I wylle e kenne, Take e bredde coruyn {and} lay by-twene, And kepe e well{e} h{i}t be not sene; 760

-- I teche hit for no curtayse, But for yn ese.

When e sewer comys vnto e borde, Alle e mete he sayes at on bare worde, 764 e potage fyrst w{i}t{h} brede y-coruyn, Cou{er}ys hom agayn lest ey ben storuyn; W{i}t{h} fyssh{e} or flessh yf [they] be s{er}ued, A morsell{e} {er}-of shalle he be keruyd; 768 And touche e messe ou{er} all{e} aboute, o sewer h{i}t et{is} w{i}t{h}-oute{n} doute.

W{i}t{h} baken mete yf he s{er}uyd be o, o lydes vp-rered or he fyr go, 772 e past or pye he sayes w{i}t{h}-inne, Dippes bredde in graue no mor{e} ne mynne; ?if e baken mete be colde, as may byfall{e}, A gobet of o self he sayes w{i}t{h}-all{e}. 776 But {o}u {a}t berys mete in hande, Yf o sewer stonde, loke {o}u stande; Yf he knele, knele {o}u so longe for o?t,

-- Tylle mete be sayde {a}t {o}u hase broght. [Fol. 26.] 780 As oft at hegh borde yf brede be nede, The butler two louys takys indede; at on settes down, {a}t oer agayn He barys to cupborde in towell{e} playn. 784 As oft as e keru{er} fettys drynke, e butler a.s.sayes h{i}t how good hy{m} thynke; In e lordys cupp {a}t leuys vndrynken, Into e almesdisshe h{i}t schall{e} be sonken. 788 The keru{er} anon w{i}t{h}-oute{n} thou?t,

[Headnote: OF THE CARVER, SURNAPE-LAYERS, AND CHANDLER.]

Vnkou{er}s e cup {a}t he hase brou?t; Into e cou{er}tour{e} wyn he powr{e}s owt, Or in-to a spare pece, w{i}t{h}-oute{n} doute; 792 a.s.sayes, an gefes o lorde to drynke, Or settes h{i}t doun as hym goode thynke.

o keru{er}[53] schall{e} kerue o lordes mete, Of what kyn pece {a}t he wyll{e} ete; 796 And on hys trenchour he hit layes, On ys maner w{i}t{h}-out displayes; In almesdysshe he layes yche dele, {a}t he is w{i}t{h} serued at o mele; 800 But he sende h{i}t to ony stronger{e}, A pese {a}t is hym leue and dere, And send hys potage also, {a}t schall{e} not to e almes go. 804 Of keru{er} more, yf I shulde telle, Ano{er} fytt enne most I spelle, Ther-fore I let h{i}t her{e} ou{er} pa.s.se, To make oure talkyng su{m}medela.s.se. 808 When e lorde hase eten, o sewer schall{e} bryng o surnape on his schulder bryng, A narew towell{e}, a brode be-syde, And of hys hondes he lettes h{i}t slyde; 812 e vssher ledes {a}t on hed ry?t, o aumener o o{er} away shall{e} dy?t.

When e vssher comys to e borde ende, o narow towell{e} he strecches vnkende; 816 Be-for{e} o lorde and e lady so dere, Dowbell{e} he playes o towell{e} ere; Whenne ay haue wa.s.shen and g{ra}ce is sayde, Away he takes at a brayde; 820 Awoydes...o...b..rde in-to o flore, Tase away o trest{is} {a}t ben so store.

[Sidenotes: _Of the Sewer (or setter-on of Dishes)._ [751] The Cook a.s.says the meat before it's dished. [752] The Sewer puts the cover on it, and the cover must never be raised for fear of treason. [757] (A Dodge: If the silver dish burns you, put bits of bread under it.) [763] The Sewer a.s.says all the food: potage with a piece of bread; fish or flesh, he eats a piece; baked meats hot, he lifts up the crust, and dips bread in the gravy; baked meats cold, he eats a bit. [777] The meat-bearer stands or kneels as the Sewer does. [782] When bread is wanted, the Butler puts one loaf on the table, the other on the cupboard.

[785] The Butler a.s.says all the wine. [787] What is left in the lord's cup goes to the Alms-dish. [790 The Carver fills the empty cup, a.s.says it, and gives it the lord or puts it down. [795] He carves the lord's meat, and lays it on his trencher, putting a piece of every thing in the Alms-dish, except any favourite piece or potage sent to a stranger. [805] (To say more about the Carver would require another section, so I pa.s.s it over.) [809] After dinner the Sewer brings the Surnape, a broad towel and a narrow, and slides it down. [813] The Usher takes one end of the broad one, the Almoner the other, and when it is laid, he folds the narrow towel double before his lord and lady. [819] After grace removes them, lays the table on the floor, and takes away the trestles.]

-- De candelario.[54]

-- Now speke I wylle a lytull{e} whyle Of o chandeler, w{i}t{h}-oute{n} gyle, 824 {a}t torches[55] {and} tortes[56] {and} preketes[57] con make, P{er}chours,[58] smale condel, I vnder-take; Of wax ese candels all{e} at brenne{n}, And morter of wax {a}t I wele kenne; 828 o snof of hom dose a-way W{i}t{h} close sesours, as I ?ow say; e sesours ben schort {and} rownde y-close, W{i}t{h} plate of irne vp-on bose. 832 In chamb{ur} no ly?t {er} shall{e} be brent, Bot of wax {er}-to, yf ?e take tent; In hall{e} at soper schall{e} caldels ({so}) brenne [Fol. 27.]

Of parys, {er}-in {a}t all{e} me{n} kenne; 836 Iche messe a candell{e} fro alhalawgh{e} day To candelmesse, as I ?ou say; Of candel liu{er}ay squiyers schall{e} haue, So long, if hit is mon will{e} kraue. 840 Of brede and ale also o boteler Schall{e} make lyu{er}e thurgh-out e ?ere To squyers, and also wyn to kny?t, Or ellys he dose not his office ry?t. 844 Her{e} endys the thryd speche.

Of all{e} oure synnes cryst be oure leche, And bryng vs to his vonyng place!

Ame{n}, sayes ?e, for hys grete grace! 848

-- Amen, par charite.

[Sidenotes: _Of the Chandler._ [825] He can make all kinds of candles, little and big, and mortars of wax. [829] He snuffs them with short scissors. [833] In bed-chambers wax lights only shall be burnt; in hall, Candles of Paris, each mess having one from Nov. 1 to Feb. 2 (see l. 393), and squires one too. [841] The Butler shall give Squires their daily bread and ale all the year, and Knights their wine.

[846] May Christ bring us to His dwelling-place. Amen!]

[Footnote 1: Toom or rymthe. _s.p.a.cium, tempus, oportunitas._ P. Parv.]

[Footnote 2: AS. _wraesten_, to writhe, twist.]

[Footnote 3: grace, civility; from AS. _mennise_, human; cp. our double sense of _humanity_. H. Coleridge.]

[Footnote 4: courteous.]

[Footnote 5: AS. _flytan_, dispute, quarrel.]

[Footnote 6: Mowe, or skorne. _Vangia, vel valgia, cachinna._ Promptorium.]

[Footnote 7: _an_ privative, unhonest.]

[Footnote 8: AS. _mod_, mood, pa.s.sion, violence.]

[[Footnote 8a: Croscrist. _La Croix de par Dieu._ The Christs-crosse-row; or, the hornebooke wherein a child learnes it.

Cotgrave. The alphabet was called the _Christ-cross-row_, some say because a cross was prefixed to the alphabet in the old primers; but as probably from a superst.i.tious custom of writing the alphabet in the form of a cross, by way of charm. This was even solemnly practised by the bishop in the consecration of a church.

See Picart's Religious Ceremonies, vol. i. p. 131. _Nares_.]]

[Footnote 9: to relation or friend.]

[Footnote 10: contempt, scorn, O.N. _heung._ H. Coleridge.]

[Footnote 11: AS. _gman_, attend, regard, observe, keep.]

[Footnote 12: thine eye]

[Footnote 13: AS. _win_, contention, labour, war; _win_, _wyn_, joy, pleasure.]

[Footnote 14: See the duties of Prince Edward's Porters, A.D.