Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 21

FIELD AND FOREST [1] HERBS ARE PREPARED [2] [either raw] WITH STOCK [3] OIL AND VINEGAR [as a salad, [4]] OR AS A COOKED DISH [5] BY ADDING PEPPER, c.u.mIN AND MASTICH BERRIES.

[1] Tor. _ac sylvestres_; V. German, _Feldsalat_.

[2] Tor. _parantur_; wanting in other editions.

[3] _Liquamine_, here interpreted as brine.

[4] Tac., Sch., _et al._ _a manu_; Tor. _vel manu_--because eaten with the hand.

[5] Tor. _vel in patina_.

XVII

[108] NETTLES _URTICae_

THE FEMALE NETTLES, WHEN THE SUN IS IN THE POSITION OF THE ARIES, IS SUPPOSED TO RENDER VALUABLE SERVICES AGAINST AILMENTS OF VARIOUS KINDS [1].

[1] Tac., List., Sch., _et al._ _adversus aegritudinem_.

Barthius: _Quam aegritudinem?_ etc., etc.

Tor. _plurifarias_!

Reinsenius: _ad arcendum morb.u.m_, etc., etc.

Hum. _scilicet quamcunque hoc est ..._ etc., etc., etc.

G.-V. _si voles_.

V. This innocent little superst.i.tion about the curative qualities of the female nettle causes the savants to engage in various speculations.

Nettles are occasionally eaten as vegetables on the Continent.

XVIII

[109] ENDIVES AND LETTUCE _INTUBA ET LACTUCae_

ENDIVES [are dressed] WITH BRINE, A LITTLE OIL AND CHOPPED ONION, INSTEAD OF THE REAL LETTUCE [1] IN WINTER TIME THE ENDIVES ARE TAKEN OUT OF THE PICKLE [2] [and are dressed] WITH HONEY OR VINEGAR.

[1] Hum. _pro lactucis uere_; Tor. _p. l. accipint_; G.-V. _p. l. vero_ (separated by period)--all indicating that endives are a subst.i.tute for lettuce when this is not available.

[2] Cf. ? No. 27, also Nos. 22 and 23.

[110] LETTUCE SALAD, FIELD SALAD _AGRESTES LACTUCae_ [1]

[Dress it] WITH VINEGAR DRESSING AND A LITTLE BRINE STOCK; WHICH HELPS DIGESTION AND IS TAKEN TO COUNTERACT INFLATION [2].

[1] Tor. _sic_; Hum. _agri l._; Tac. _id._; Sch. and G.-V. have _acri_ as an adjective to vinegar, the last word in the preceding formula.

[2] List. and Hum. continuing: "And this salad will not hurt you"; but Tor., Sch. and G.-V. use this as a heading for the following formula.

[111] A HARMLESS SALAD _NE LACTUCae LaeDANT_

[And in order that the lettuce may not hurt you take (with it or after it) the following preparation] [1] 2 OUNCES OF GINGER, 1 OUNCE OF GREEN RUE, 1 OUNCE OF MEATY DATES, 12 SCRUPLES OF GROUND PEPPER, 1 OUNCE OF GOOD HONEY, AND 8 OUNCES OF EITHER aeTHIOPIAN OR SYRIAN c.u.mIN.

MAKE AN INFUSION OF THIS IN VINEGAR, THE c.u.mIN CRUSHED, AND STRAIN. OF THIS LIQUOR USE A SMALL SPOONFUL MIX IT WITH STOCK AND A LITTLE VINEGAR: YOU MAY TAKE A SMALL SPOONFUL AFTER THE MEAL [2].

[1] Tac. and Tor. _Ne lactucae laedant_ [take it] _c.u.m zingiberis uncijs duabus_, etc. Hum., List., G.-V.

_c.u.mini unc. II._ They and Sch. read the _c.u.m_ of Tac.

and Tor. for _c.u.mini_, overlooking the fact that the recipe later calls for Aethopian or Syrian c.u.min as well. This shifts the weights of the various ingredients from the one to the other, completely upsetting the sense of the formula.

[2] Goll. ignores this pa.s.sage completely.

V. This is another of the medical formulae that have suffered much by experimentation and interpretation through the ages. It seems to be an aromatic vinegar for a salad dressing, and, as such, a very interesting article, reminding of our present tarragon, etc., vinegars. To be used judiciously in salads.

Again, as might be expected, the medicinal character of the formula inspires the medieval doctors to profound meditation and lively debate.

Cf. ? Nos. 34 and 108.

XIX

[112] CARDOONS _CARDUI_

CARDOONS [are eaten with a dressing of] BRINY BROTH, OIL, AND CHOPPED [hard] EGGS.

V. Precisely as we do today: French dressing and hard boiled eggs. We do not forget pepper, of course. Perhaps the ancient "briny broth" contained enough of this and of other ingredients, such as fine condiments and spices to make the dressing perfect.

[113] ANOTHER [Dressing for] CARDOONS _ALITER CARDUOS_

RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL--ALL GREEN--FINELY CRUSHED; ADD PEPPER, LOVAGE, AND [1] BRINE AND OIL [2].

[1] Tac. and Tor. _vel._; List., Sch., G.-V.

_mel_--honey--which would spoil this fine _vinaigrette_ or cold _fines herbes dressing_. However, even nowadays, sugar is quite frequently added to salad dressings.

[2] Gollmer claims that this dressing is served with cooked cardoons, the recipe for which follows below.

This is wanting in Tor.