Charles Philip Yorke, Fourth Earl of Hardwicke, Vice-Admiral R.N. Part 6

'The people who are now at the head of what they style the Provisional Government of Greece are men who under the Turks were merchants, or masters of merchant ships. The Chief or Primate of this Government (Condenotti by name) is an Hydriote (his Brother is now Primate of Hydra) who during his life has ama.s.sed a fortune of Five million of dollars, having had for twenty-three years the Trade, I may say, of the whole of the northern part of the Archipelago; himself a ship owner, having no less than eighteen or twenty fine Brigs and ships from 180 to 300 tons burthen. This man has never given a Para to the cause of his country; what can you expect with such a beginning? The Govt. have in their pay about 10,000 men, ragam.u.f.fins of all sorts. This is that part of the population of Greece that our Committee in London send money to.

'Are the Greek Committee such fools as to suppose that they are honourably dealt with, and that this money is all put to the uses they would wish to see it put to, or that the money sent from England will ever do any good to the Greek cause, unless they appoint proper Commissioners to receive it, and to dole it out, in such a way as to be of service to those who merit it? Is the Provisional Govt. of Greece such a Committee? Or are they who have been tricking and trafficking to make money all their lives fit people to be entrusted with such a Commission? _There is not one Patriot among them!_ And they are accountable to no one by law, for there are no laws in the land.

'Money has arrived lately from the Greek Committee and it was put into the hands of the Provisional Govt. What they have done with the _whole_ of it I do not know; some they have given to Odysseus. When he heard that money was coming from England to Napoli he left his stronghold in Parna.s.sus and came down with the small retinue of 300 men to demand of the Govt. some remuneration for his services, he had expelled the Turks from Livadia, and he now required that they would pay 5000 men for him. This Odysseus is the only man whom I should call a Patriot among them. So different in style is the free Mountain Chief from the Lowland long enslaved Greek, that you would hardly believe them to belong to the same nation. Odysseus ever called and thought himself free, and his family before him never own'd the dominion of the Turk, living in inaccessible holds no Turkish turbaned head was ever near them. This man tho' wild and untaught is patriotic, brave, devoid of superst.i.tion, and last and most rare among the Greeks, has an utter contempt for money. He has talents for war or peace, and the most moderate in his principles of any of them. If there is a man in Greece who is to be depended on _he_ is the man. He maintains that one of the greatest steps towards the well-being of Greece is the putting down the ascendancy of the Priests, with that you will put down intolerant avarice and much crime. At first the Govt. would not give much ear to his demands, but he goes to them in person, stripped of his arms, telling them he is no longer a soldier, that he would turn barber for he could shave; he said he would get an honest livelihood as a poor man but not pilfer &c. _as some of his friends did_ who had neither patriotism or virtue, and who thought of nothing but aggrandizing and enriching themselves. Such was his opinion of this Govt., and he a.s.sured me himself that not one of their heads should be on their shoulders in ten days if they did not distribute this money in such a way as to ensure something like a successful campaign against the Turks. They have however given what I suppose they could not keep from him and what he _had before_; the command in _Livadia_, and pay 5000 men for him.

'I had some very amusing excursions with this Chief and we became great friends, he is in person one of the handsomest and finest men I ever saw, and had Maria seen him manage his horse she would never have forgotten it. I could give very interesting accounts of our picnics and rides, when his Albanians roasted the sheep whole stuffed with almonds and raisins, &c. &c. but it will take more time than I can spare, and I fear by this time you will be nearly tired, but you must bear with me up to the date I write from before I give up. The other Chiefs of Note, Mavrocordato and Colcotronis, are men of perfectly different characters but both by their different means attempting to aggrandize themselves.

The former's weapons are his talents and his tongue, the latter's his courage and his sword. Colcotronis rebelled and try'd to overthrow the provisional Government, he blockaded Napoli and was for some weeks fighting with the Govt. Corps in the Plains of Argos, but Odysseus appearing on the mountain, neither knowing which side he would take, they suspended their arms and a reconciliation was brought about. I think of late there has been a little more apparent conduct in the Chiefs than before. I see in our papers great puffs about the fighting in Greece. The warfare, in fact, is desultory and next to ridiculous excepting in the pa.s.ses of the Mountains, and when Turkish cavalry are caught there the Greeks always kill them all. As yet the campaign is rather against the Greek by the loss of Psara, their chief Naval Island, which from its situation much annoy'd the Turk.

'But to the Greek Committee! Great as the respect is which I feel for a set of men who have wished to give a.s.sistance to that cause so dear to every Englishman, yet I regret much the material and money that has been wasted and frittered away to no purpose. Had the Greek Committee fully understood the business they were about to take in hand they would not have sent out the quant.i.ties of valuable yet useless stores which are now I believe in the possession of the people of Missolonghi. If instead of sending out surveying instruments, s.e.xtants, telescopes and numberless instruments used by our artillery and engineers, they had caused to be manufactured musquets, yataghans and pistols in the fashion of the country together with powder and ball, and had taken care that a proper commission was there ready to receive it and take care that they were properly distributed, I would have given them some credit; but as yet I think what they have sent has created bad blood among the people and rivalry among the Chiefs who should possess the whole. When Odysseus heard that supplies of stores had arrived from England at Missolonghi he sent 300 men and a captain to get some, he demanded a share and it was refused; he then forcibly took away four field guns and forty barrels of powder on mules and carried them safe to Parna.s.sus. The man who did this was Mr. Trelawney from whom I had the circ.u.mstance. Of the money the Committee have just sent out, a little comes back to us, for the Greeks always allege they cannot pay for the piracies committed on our Flag until the money arrives from England! This is too great a farce! I have actually been once to Napoli for money, which has been owing for this year pa.s.s'd and which they never would pay until they were able to pay it in English sovereigns.

'Greece has the name of fighting but with the present sort of warfare that goes on, unless some interference is made or the one party or the other gets weary, it may continue without progression towards the grand end, peace, until doomsday.

'After leaving Napoli I went to Hydra where I had some piratical business to settle. On pulling into the port in my boat I saw a vessel there under British colors that informed me they had that morning been captured by an Hydriote corsair, I desired that she should be instantly given up to me which they refused doing; I that evening cut her out with the _Alacrity's_ Boats; I put half my crew and all my marines into the three boats going myself in my gig, making Trescott in the brig stand slap into the port with her guns loaded with round shot and grape.

The sh.o.r.es of the harbour (which is not more than two cables lengthward) lined with about 12,000 men, her guns would have made dreadful havoc. In three minutes from the time we got on board, the Greeks had jumped overboard and her cables were cut, and out she came without the loss of a single man. They have protested against me to the Govt. at Napoli but _it's all right_, and I did what was perfectly proper in all points. These rascals must not be allowed to capture British vessels on any pretence whatever; if they are allowed to do so, even on pretences of a.s.sisting their enemies, no vessel but a man of war will be able to sail in these seas.

'From Hydra hearing that Samos was about to be attacked by the Turks I sailed thither, and on the first day of their attack (in which they were repulsed) I took off 106 women and children with their property, _being British subjects_, and carried them to Smyrna. From there on my way to Napoli I fell in with the _Martin_ and returned to Smyrna, where I found _Euryalus_. He went to sea and has left me Gardo here. Finding that for a time my sea trips were suspended I set off for Magnesia and much delighted I have been with my trip, suffice it to say that nothing can be kinder than the great Turks are to me, and in a few days I return to Magnesia to hunt with Ali Bey the Governor of that Town. But I must reserve a description of these trips until another letter, as I am sure you will be heartily tired by the time you have got through my _griffonage_.

'I have enjoy'd all this summer most excellent health, and the climate has completely left off its baneful influence upon me, thank G.o.d.

'Tell Lady C. I have collected for her a quant.i.ty of antient Greek, Roman and Egyptian pottery, the greater part of which is most exceedingly valuable, and some that I dug myself at Samos.

'I have also collected a quant.i.ty of very fine Coins (Greek) which _if_ I get a safe conveyance, I shall send Uncle Charles. Tell him so! This letter I know he will see, so if he will, take it as written as much to himself as you and indeed all the family, To whom individually & collectively give my afftn. love.

'Don't show my letters to any but the family Pray!

'You will be amused to hear I wear the Turkish dress on these excursions.

'Your most afftn. Son

'C. YORKE.

'PS.--Affectionate Love to U. K. and Agneta an affectionate Embrace to H. Y., E. Y. and G. Y.'

ALEXANDRIA:

Dec. 27, 1825.

'MY DEAREST FATHER,

'Although I cannot write as long a letter as I intended and wish, for lack of time, yet, as there are several vessels in this harbour on the point of sailing for England, I must, after so long an interval, put pen to paper in your behalf.

'By the finish of my last letter to you which I trust was prolix enough I was at Smyrna, and had informed you of my visiting in this country its n.o.bles and princes: and I think mentioned something of a visit I paid to Ali Bey, the Governor of Idun a country to the Nd. of Smyrna, whose capital is Magnesia, where the residence of the Governor is. I twice visited this Prince, and, so much was he pleased the first time, that he invited me to come a second when there was to be a hunt of birds and beasts. On the 13th of September, Forrester the Surgeon, Weatley my 2nd Lieutenant, and myself with a young Armenian as an interpreter and a Janissary for a "Garde du corps," started "au point du jour" from Smyrna, and arrived in the afternoon at Magnesia, one of the prettiest Turkish towns I have seen. Our journey slow, over bad roads, did not afford any circ.u.mstances much worth relating. We found our new acquaintances Turk and Christian, both in their way agreeable; the Armenian, young, sensible, and an extraordinary linguist, speaking nine languages though not twenty years of age. The Old Turk, funny, fat and good-natured. The latter part of our journey lay thro' a pa.s.s in the mountains from the summit of which the Valley of Magnesia suddenly burst on our view, with the town on the eastern side at the foot of a perpendicular rocky mountain very like the rock of Gibraltar, but if anything higher, more craggy, and bold: the valley that lay before us, bounded on the W. by a ridge of regular round topped hills, and to the Nd. the eye could not reach the extent of this immense plain, which is covered with vines, and fig trees, corn, and tobacco, the best in Natolia. On my arrival, I sent my Janissary from the Kane I put up at to say I was arrived, when an officer from the Bey came, and marched us thro' the street till we stopped at one of the best looking houses I had seen; we were ushered in, and I was then informed we were to live here and that if I did not like it and was not comfortable that I should have another. But I soon found out we could not be better off; the Bey having sent us to the house of the Primate of the Greeks, who was obliged to receive us whether he liked it or not, it being sufficient that a Turk orders it. But in truth, I believe the old Patriarch was very proud of the honor for no hospitality could outdo his: the fatted calf was killed and we feasted sumptuously. Fingers were now called into requisition as knives and forks are no part of the necessaries of these Oriental nations. Such tearing of fowls and tucking up of sleeves! After dinner the water, and then the Alpha and Omega of all oriental visitings, mornings, noons, and nights, "Coffee and Pipes." During the evening some pretty girls, the daughters of the Old Man, danced before us, those dances which the women of the country are so famous for: tho' none of the most decent yet very curious, some young men playing the guitar and singing, for the song always accompanies the dance. My Janissary was so delighted, that, he swore if he had only had two gla.s.ses of wine he would fire his pistols right and left. I felt rather satisfied he had not had the wine he spoke of. We were all f.a.gged enough to find our beds on the floor capital; and the next day we visited the Bey.

'January 16, 1825.--I am now at sea and had intended this letter from Alexandria, and, as I said before, it was to be short; but now I shall send it from Malta, and it is to be long.

'But to resume my story. When we arrived at the palace he was dining in the Kiosk with some of his friends, and we had to wait a little while until the repast was ended when we were ushered in. He received us very haughtily, and in a manner not at all consistent with the kind messages he had sent us. Pipes and Coffee were served, and the conversation was rather slack. At his feet sat one of the most extraordinary figures I ever saw in my life; a countenance more devilish was never given to Dervish before. After we had been seated some time, this man, who had never opened his lips but had eyed us with the greatest attention and ferocity, at length began to mutter, "Kenkalis, Kenkalis, taib ben"

("English, English, I hope you are well"). This was one of those privileged people which in these countries are called Dervishes, who are dreaded and respected by the superst.i.tious, and who afford amus.e.m.e.nt by their extraordinary antics to others. They have the _entree_ of all houses great or small, rich or poor, and are never refused food or raiment: it being in itself a crime, to insult or offend all who are in any way extraordinary: the more mad, the more sacred the person. Madness in Turkey is an excellent trade.

'At length I soon discovered how it was that my new friend the Bey was thus: his friends (Turks) rose to depart, so did I but he desired me to sit down again. The moment the Turks had departed he was a new man. I have never been so pleased with any Turk in my life as with Ali Bey. His affability and kindness were European, which, when blended with the handsomest form and face the costume of a Turk and pomp of a prince, made a most agreeable acquisition to my Eastern acquaintance.

'He now began to make his attendants play all sorts of tricks with the Dervish to draw him out; who seemed to be a perfect prince in the art of buffoonery. We were amazingly amused. He now told me he had a grand _cha.s.se_ in twenty-five days' time, and desired that I would come to him on that day, bring my gun, and stay with him a week; nothing could have pleased me more than this offer. And as I lay Gardo in Smyrna, twenty-five days afterwards I again found myself in Magnesia, housed with the old Greek Patriarch a second time. He now sent us down to the village of Graviousken (?) (Infidel Village) where we were well lodged: his cook and household chief accompanied us, and the following day he came himself. Our hunt, tho' not much sport to English taste, yet was most amusing. The magnificence of the horses and riders; their equipage and management of the animal; riding at speed, as tho' they were on the point of being dashed to pieces, against a wall or down a precipice, at once coming to a dead stop. Riding at each other, delivering the jareed, firing their pistols and wheeling short round in an instant, and at speed in the opposite direction. We had greyhounds and killed a few hares. The following days were unfortunately wet; we returned to Magnesia.

'The first visit I paid the Bey this time, I honored him with my full dress for reasons very good, he was not quite sure who I was. It was also necessary that his people should have outward shew, to satisfy them: this I was nearly paying dear for. There is a horrid custom in this country, of paying a certain sum to the attendants of these great people every visit you make. A few piastres had heretofore satisfied, but on leaving, after this Golden Visit, they seized my interpreter the moment he took his purse out, tore it away from him took all he had saying, "they should never see such a man again" and returned him the empty purse. He fortunately had been prepared for such an attack and had a proper sum and no more in his purse, but had it not been for this sagacity, I might have lost all the money I had with me. Our dinner at Graviousken was capital, he had wine for us; fingers were again in requisition, and we were obliged to eat of twenty-six dishes, each brought separately on the table, one after the other, which you had no sooner begun to think good, than it was immediately s.n.a.t.c.hed away and disappeared. After having given to my old Greek some presents of silks for his wife, and caps for his daughters, we returned to Smyrna, where I found H.M.S. _Cyrene_, Captn. Grace, and soon after arrived Clifford in the _Euryalus_, who most kindly gave me an opportunity of seeing a great deal of other countries by an order to visit the coast of Syria, &c. &c.

'Oct. 24, 1825.--We pa.s.sed thro' the Straits of Scio, and on the 25th anch.o.r.ed at Scala Nova. I shall not trouble you with nautical details, as all my remarks, bearings, soundings, &c., which I have carefully taken in this voyage I keep in a distinct remark-book. It is a small town, governed by an Aga, situated on an elevated promontory, with a small island and fort off the point, bad shelter for a winter anchorage.

Scala Nova had much interest to me, as I was completely able to appreciate the conduct of the Captain Pacha with regard to his pitiful attempt on the island of Samos, which is distant about twenty miles.

This Pacha had 100,000 men at Scala Nova, with a sufficient number of boats and transports to convey them, and about eighty sail of men of war to protect them. Yet he made the attempt to land 3000 men, which I myself was a witness, and they nearly all perished by the musketry of the Greeks. No further attempt was made on the island, the fleet remains to the Northward of Samos, under sail for fourteen days, (fine weather) the Greeks thirty-five sail of small vessels and fireships in the little Bogaz, which separates the island from the main. At length the fleet sail for Mytilene. The troops at Scala Nova know not what to think, no provisions, no water, 25,000 die of famine, the rest in a most pitiable condition, receive orders to return to their homes, ma.s.sacre, pillage, and plunder the whole way back. Nevertheless, the Turks contrived to lose two small frigates by the fireships of the Greeks. The conduct of the Pacha, and his disgraceful mode of entering Constantinople with about fifty sail of small Greek Boats for the occasion, with a Greek hanging at each mast head, you might have seen from the public prints.

My business with the Governor of Scala Nova being settled (having obliged him to release an Ionian Vessel one of his cruizers had captured), Ephesus three hours distant became the next object. Little is now left of this once celebrated city, and the site of Diana's huge temple I think is not to be found. One splendid relic still remains. A part of a fluted Corinthian column, of Parian marble, about 111 feet long, broken; the remainder is gone; but from the diameter, the block forming that part could not have been less than fifty feet; a part also of a huge cornice which was immediately over this column remains, of marble also, weighing about 15 tons. The carved work on the capital and cornice is as fresh as the day the artist finished it, tho' most likely above 2000 yrs. old. Ephesus is thought by many to have been latterly destroyed by an earthquake, and this small relic certainly tends to prove the a.s.sertion. On examining this column carefully, I found that the fluting, about half way down, was finished and polished, and a part in the rough. The ancients always finished and polished, after the column was erect. Certainly, some sudden accident must have occurred to have prevented the artist from completing so fine a piece of work, and the manner in which it is broken leads me to suppose an earthquake, without doubt, to have been the cause of the abrupt departure of the chisel from its occupation.

'Leaving Scala Nova, we sailed thro' the little Bogaz, by Patmos when we fell in with some Greek cruizers, on the look out for the Egyptian fleet under Ibrahim Pacha, whom we found at Bodrum (?) where we next anch.o.r.ed.

Nothing whatever of antient Halicarna.s.sus, or the wonder of the world, here remains! Not a trace, not a vestige! One tower more modern, the base of which appears Roman with a Turkish superstructure, and one block of granite on which is an inscription stating that Caesar mounted his horse from this stone: I would have carried this relic away, but Mr.

Arbro, Premier Interprete et Lieutenant a son Altesse Ibrahim Pacha, informed me that he had laid hands on it. Here I no sooner anch.o.r.ed than a number of Maltese captains of merchant vessels, in the employ of the Viceroy of Egypt, came on board to beg my interference with the Pacha as to some grievance they had suffered. I was quite determined I would have nothing to do with these blackguards in the Turkish service; but, on going on sh.o.r.e I could not help feeling immensely enraged at seeing upwards of twenty large Red Ensigns (English), flying on his fleet of Transports, loaded with Turkish soldiers going to carry them to the Morea! I presume the British subject is free to trade as he pleases but, at the same time, that he must take the consequence of his speculations.

Whether this large national flag was to be displayed at sea, in a rencontre with the Greek fleet, became a question with me? Whether our ensign was to be borne by vessels actually engaging Greek ships, was also a question I asked myself. And the reply instantly was, "_No_, it cannot be neutrality." I determined to take the ensigns from them which was done, and having cut the Unions out I gave them back, which I have since been sorry for. In short, I should have taken all the vessels as they were all sailing under false papers, or have taken the flags away altogether and have considered them as they really were, Turkish transports. But I felt it a very delicate affair as Ibrahim Pacha, when I waited on him, declared, that I should be the means of his losing his expedition, and that he trembled for the consequences. He had previously sent his Secretary on board me, to try and talk me over to give back the flags. But it would not do, I saw thro' the whole thing. The fact was, these mercenaries employed in the Egyptian service had refused to proceed any further, their contract having expired. He having exhausted five months in reaching Bodrum (?) from Alexandria wished to throw the whole of the revolt of the Maltese on me, as having taken their colors; they declaring that they could not go to sea in safety under any other flag. He wished to be able to use this pretext to his father, the Viceroy. After about four hours' conversation we parted as we begun, I would not return the colors. We parted however the following day better friends, the revolted vessels were moored in a line before the loyal ones so that those who were willing could not go to sea. He sent for me, and begged me to speak to the Maltese which I did, and desired them to move their ships to let the other Transports pa.s.s out. What he said to the Viceroy of Egypt I know not, but be that as it may the old man was very civil afterwards to me in Egypt. I daresay you will think me a great fool for having troubled my head in this affair at all; but really, whether I am right or wrong, I could not bear to see the flag under the Turk, and the vessels bearing it conveying troops to the conquest of the Morea. Much as I dislike the Greek character, yet I love the cause.

'I was not sorry to get clear of Ibrahim and his expedition, as I inevitably saw difficulties would increase and that from the situation of the British subjects violence might be resorted to by the Turk, and that my presence only added fuel to the fire. For while I was there the Maltese grew more and more impudent. However, all since has ended well.

The Maltese have been honorably paid off by the Viceroy of Egypt.

'Pa.s.sing between Stanco(?) and the main on the 2nd of Novr. we anch.o.r.ed in the Harbour of Marmorico (?), certainly the finest in the Mediterranean. Here we remained in consequence of bad weather, but we managed to wood and water. After leaving this port I visited Rhodes, so famous an island requires me to give some description. Keeping the Brig boxing about between the island and the main, I made my visits leaving her early in the morning, she standing in the evening to pick me up. The Port here I by no means considered safe for the _Alacrity_. Small merchant vessels do go into the Port, and often pay for their temerity by being totally wrecked. Here you see the remains of what the island was, with some of the Knights, but nothing more ancient except the remains of a temple to Apollo. The works and fortifications are very like Malta on a diminished scale, and the great Street of the Knights with their arms and devices over each door. To see a turban'd head sticking out of the window is a provoking proof of the triumph of the Mussulman over these deserted Christian Knights.

'January 28th, 1826.--I am just anch.o.r.ed in the Quarantine Harbour at Malta; I find the packet for England on the point of sailing so I cannot finish my letter, but I think it already too long. In my next I shall take up my proceedings from Rhodes, going into Cyprus, Scandaroon, Beirut, Tyre, Sidon, St. Jean D'Arc, Deir-il-Kamr in the Mountains of Lebanon, Lady Hester Stanhope with whom I stayed one week, Alexandria, Cairo, &c. and back to Malta after a cruize of eight Months.

'I must now finish with a little Turkish politics. The whole arrangement of the Greek War is put into the hands of the Viceroy of Egypt. The Captain Pacha does not go afloat this year but is I fancy in great disgrace. The Constantinople and Egyptian fleets are to be combined under Ibrahim Pacha, who is now at Marmorico, waiting for reinforcements to go to the Morea. I fancy the divided Councils of the Greeks now gives a fine opportunity of success. Colcotronis has secretly sided with Mehemet Ali, and it is supposed that Albania is bought with Turkish gold. The Greeks are quite capable of this. The only way in which the Turk will do anything in the Morea is by corrupting the Greeks: if it is to be a contest, I prophesy the Egyptian army _will never return_.

The conduct of the French to the Turks has been most decided. The King of France wrote to the Viceroy of Egypt, complimenting him on his genius, and wishing him all possible success. The bearer of this letter was General Boyer who has come out to discipline the Turkish army, has a.s.sumed the Turkish dress, being installed in his command with the t.i.tle and allowance of a Bey and a salary of 10,000 Dollars per annum. He brought out also two most beautifully manufactured carpets, and 500 stand of arms and accoutrements complete, as a present from the King to the Viceroy. The Turks of the country do not know what to make of this gracious like conduct, but they say he has formed an alliance with France either to stop, at any time they wish, our overland intercourse with India, or to strengthen himself so that he may be better able to shake off the Turkish yoke of Istamboul. His views are certainly most ambitious; but as yet have not sufficiently developed themselves for anyone, I think, decidedly to form an opinion.

'Dr. Father, Adieu!'

The letter from Vourla which follows is that promised to his father in the preceding letter from Alexandria, and is strictly of an earlier date as it takes up the story of his experiences in the later months of 1824.

The narrative requires no comment, as it speaks for itself, and the description of Captain Yorke's visit to Lady Hester Stanhope at Djoun will be read with interest. He attained the rank of Captain on June 6, 1825.

'... After a tedious pa.s.sage from Larnica we anch.o.r.ed at Beirut, once the capital of the Druses but conquered in the time of Daher Prince of Acre by the Turks. The place is supposed to be the ancient Baal Berith.

Here we stay a week. Beirut is a curious town. The architecture is substantial, perfectly different from any seen in other parts of Asia until you arrive in Syria; quite Saracenic, arches in abundance and curious tesselated pavements of coloured stones. But this is not Turkish, though now in possession of the Turks, but the architecture of its former inhabitants remains. I made short excursions into the country with some English and Armenian missionaries who have resided some years in the country, but except the beauties of nature little else remarkable is to be seen. For the best information in a small compa.s.s of this part of Syria Mr. Hope's "Anastasius" will give it. But within the compa.s.s of a letter I cannot enter into very great detail unless I were to write it on the spot and take more time and pains than my disposition inclines to. As far as professional remarks go, I have as much as a boat and lead line and bearings will give.

'Here I was in some distress, for the pilot, a Greek, that I got at Rhodes declared he knew nothing of the coast, so I discharged him. A Turk now undertook to pilot us to Seyden, though on our arrival there I determined to have no more pilots, as they rather confused the navigation, not being able to give positive information at any time.

'After leaving Beirut we next let go anchor at Saida (Sidon) once so famed, and now a very tolerable Turkish town. Here no relic of antiquity is visible except a large block of marble about a mile to southward of the town with a Greek inscription (which _I_ did not see; Mandiel gives a sufficient account of it, and my friends who visited it say it appears to be in precisely the same state that he saw it in) with some remains of a galley mole, which the Turks in their profound policy have blocked up so that it is with difficulty that a small boat can get in.

Here my attention was greatly diverted from examining much of the town and its contents by the circ.u.mstance of my dispatching a civil line "with Captain Y's compts to Lady H. Stanhope" offering my services in any way to take letters &c. to Malta or elsewhere that I might be going.

Lady Hester for some years has refused to see English people, therefore I had not a hope that she would give me an interview; but to my surprise, on the evening of my writing, her Armenian interpreter came on board with a kind note by which I found that a horse and escort were at Saida waiting to conduct me when I might please to Djoun her residence in Liba.n.u.s, about three hours from Saida. Accordingly on the following morning, with Luca my Armenian interpreter whom I have mentioned in company, we started for the residence of her ladyship. The ride, uninteresting from any circ.u.mstance but that of actually being on Mount Liba.n.u.s, deserves no remark, sterile, and but little cultivated in this part. Her residence is on an eminence about ten miles from the sea which it overlooks; on the other side it does not look into the bosom of the Valley of Bernica, yet it is high enough to enjoy the beautiful verdure of the mountain rising on the opposite side, whose tops are the most lofty of Liba.n.u.s. The air is pure and the scenery bold. On a hill about a mile to the southward of her habitation is a village which flourishes in the sunshine of her favour and protection. Her house is a neat building, a mixture of Oriental and English. From the entrance gate a pa.s.sage (on either side of which is a guard room and some apartments for soldiers and servants) leads to a square yard, half way across which is a terrace with three steps, round which terrace are the different apartments of servants, interpreters, as also spare rooms for visitors.

On the left side of the terrace under a lattice work of wood woven with rose and jessamine I was ushered, and shewn into a small apartment furnished in the Eastern style. The chiboque and coffee were instantly brought me by a French youth in the costume of a Mameluke, with compliments from my lady begging I would refresh myself after my fatigue. On my ablutions being finished I was sent for. Pa.s.sing through several pa.s.sages I was shewn into a room rather dark with a curtain drawn across, which being withdrawn I found myself in the presence of a Bedouin Arab chief who soon turned out to be Lady Hester. She expressed great joy at seeing the son of one of the most honest families in England, so she was pleased to express herself. She received me as an English lady of fashion would have done. I at once became delighted with her, with her knowledge, and I must say her beauty, for she is still one of the finest specimens of a woman I ever saw. She spoke much of Uncle Charles; her conversation beyond any person's I ever met; she was in fine spirits. Her dress, which well became her gigantic person, very rich. I shall pa.s.s over our conversation which was full of liveliness, of marvels and wonders, manners and customs of the people, plagues, troubles, and famines &c. &c. I went back to the brig the following day and returned in the afternoon to Djoun, taking with me Mr. Forrester, my surgeon, who she requested I would allow to arrange her medicines which were in confusion and disorder.

'In the evening she sent for me; she smoked the chiboque, her mind was wrought to a high pitch of enthusiasm, she talked wildly and was much distressed in mind, in short her intellects were much disordered and it was very distressing.

'However, she arranged that I should next morning start for Deir-el- Kamr, the capital of the Druses, with a letter to the Emir Bashire, the prince of that nation. I perceive that, were I to begin a description, I should waste much good paper without stating any thing that is new. The Druses are a most extraordinary people; the Palace of the Emir superb, the country richly cultivated by the greatest labour being all in ridges on the sides of the mountains, but I shall refer you to Mr. Hope's "Anastasius" for a good description and for all that is supposed, for nothing is known of their religion. The Emir treated us with much kindness and I stayed two days in his palace where we had apartments, visited him in the forenoon after which he did not interfere with our pleasure; excellent living, about fifty dishes served to about four people for dinner.