By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 7

High ran our antic.i.p.ations as we were approaching the renowned White City, to which representatives of all nations have made a pilgrimage.

At the expiration of about one-half hour, we reached the pier, destined for the halting-place of yachts; and welcomed by the supervisor of the harbor, we went on sh.o.r.e.

The first impression was bewildering. Americans have reason to be proud of what was to be viewed in Jackson Park; as such buildings no previous generations of men have seen, congregated in this manner; and the display of the achievements of science, art, and industries, exhibited in them, has undoubtedly eclipsed all other expositions in the world's annals of progress.

It seems impossible to give so adequate a pen-picture of the World's Fair as to impart to the reader an accurate idea of its true grandeur. Many minds have essayed already to reproduce what they have witnessed there; many pens have attempted to record exactly the incomparable impression the exposition effected upon its visitors, but, it is safe to say, without even faintly describing it; for, can language convey to a blind man what "color" means, or to a deaf person the meaning of music?--No more can the pen of the most gifted author adequately portray the World's Columbian Exposition. If one would give to each building a volume; a shelf to the Midway Plaisance; and to the exhibitions a whole library in way of description, yet half of its beauties and wonders would not be told.--

Leaving the "Marguerite" at the North Pier, our attention was called to a unique exhibit made by the U.S. Navy Department, a structure representing a faithful model of a modern coast-line battle-ship. This full-sized imitation _man-of-war_ _"Illinois"_ was completely equipped erected on piling on the lake front, and surrounded by water, so as to give the appearance of being moored to a wharf. Here the Government showed also a war baloon, a light-house, a life-saving station complete with apparatus, and a gun battery.

Proceeding a little westward, we viewed a building, delightfully located, bearing a strong resemblance to the National Museum at Washington. This imposing edifice cla.s.sic in style, and adorned by a central octagonal dome was the _United States Government Building_; to the southward of which rose the largest of the Exposition structures, the _Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building_, notable for its gigantic but symmetrical proportions, covering an area of more than thirty-one acres.

Looking in a southern direction, we caught sight of the pier extending 1,000 feet into the lake, and affording a landing-place for steamers. It was bounded on the east by the beautiful facade of the _Casino_, which presented a decidedly Venetian aspect; its nine pavilions being in communication both by gondolas and bridges. At the west end of the pier stood thirteen stately columns emblematic of the Thirteen Original States of the Union.

Rising out of the lagoon, the colossal _Statue of the Republic,_ the largest ever built in America, predominated over this charming scene.

Beyond it extended a broad basin from which gra.s.sy terraces and broad walks led on the southward to one of the most magnificent edifices raised for the exposition, the _Agricultural Building_. In style of architecture it pertained to the cla.s.sic renaissance and was erected at a cost of about $1,000,000.

From the pier westward across the park, we walked through an avenue, several feet long; affording a view of almost unparalleled splendor.

Encompa.s.sing a beautiful sheet of water, the majestic facades of imposing buildings attracted our eyes; above all, a superb guilded dome shimmering in the sun-light, and pertaining to the _Administration Building,_ which was p.r.o.nounced the gem and crown of the Exposition structures. In general design in the style of the French renaissance, it was built at an expense of about $550,000.

Located at the extreme south of the park rose the stately _Machinery Hall_, following cla.s.sical models throughout, and being especially rich in architectural lines and details. Its construction required a sum of $1,000,000.

Facing the Grand Avenue, our eyes rested with delight upon two immense edifices on either side of the Administration Building, one for the _Electrical_ and the other for the _Mining Exhibit_.

Turning to the northward, we viewed the _Transportation Building,_ exquisitely refined and simple in architectural treatment, although very rich and costly in detail.

On our right we beheld one of the most notable spots in Jackson Park, (viz) _Wooded Island_, a gem of primitive nature, agreeably contrasting with the grand productions of human skill surrounding it. Close by was the _Palace of Horticulture,_ the largest structure ever erected for such purpose, costing about $400,000.

Proceeding more northward, we reached the entrance to the _Midway Plaisance_, directly east of which stood, encompa.s.sed by luxuriant shrubs and beds of fragrant flowers, like a white silhouette against the background of old and stately oaks, the daintily designed _Woman's Building_.

On a well paved boulevard we entered the great "Highway through the Nations." Formerly a promenade belonging to the South Park System and connecting Jackson Park on the east and Washington Park on the west, it was styled by the seekers of _plaisir_ "Midway Plaisance" signifying "Pleasure-Way." This name has been retained by the Administration of the World's Fair, whereas the country-lane of former times had undergone a complete metamorphosis. We were unable to realize the radical character of the transformation as we contemplated the enormous variety of attractions here presented, more numerous and unlike any others ever brought together.

Therefore, it is a very difficult task to give the reader an exact idea of the impression the Midway Plaisance effected upon its visitors, because we generally derive our conception of a scene from the comparison it will bear with similar spectacles.

The "Highway through the Nations" const.i.tuted an attractive, novel, and instructive addition to the Exposition. For, besides enlightening ourselves in regard to the styles of structures--inhabited by the diverse nations on the earth,--forming a fine array of villages, castles, towers, pavilions, paG.o.das, mosques, and other displays of oriental and occidental architecture, we viewed the natives of the various countries. There were representatives of nearly all the races and tribes, const.i.tuting the human population on our planet which is estimated to amount to 1,500,000,000 men. We had a chance to study their features, manners, and customs; their way of dressing, as well as their language and special occupations. Such opportunities are only otherwise given to travelers around the globe.

The rays of the descending sun--casting rosy reflections on the beautiful panorama and the mammoth _Ferris Wheel_, with its gigantic form overtowering the structures of the Midway Plaisance--gave us the signal for abandoning this charming realm.

Thus, directing our steps toward the Exposition Grounds, we arrived at the northwestern portion of Jackson Park where we ascended the entrance to a station of the _Columbian Intramural Railway_, the first and only electric elevated railroad, operated by the Third Rail Trolley System.--Conveyed by the driving power of electricity, we had a delightful ride affording a fine view upon the northern part of the grounds. Scores of graceful structures const.i.tuting a veritable town of palaces, embodied the best conceptions of America's greatest architectural display.

A picturesque group of buildings erected by the States and Territories of the American Union, rose in a semicircle around the _Fine Arts Galleries_, a palace costing half a million. Grecian-ionic in style, this edifice represented a pure type of the most refined cla.s.sic architecture. In the western portion of this group--facing the North Pond--stood the _Illinois Building_, adorned by a dome in the center, and a great porch looking southward.

Surrounded by lawns, walks, beds of flowers, and shrubs, the charming structures of Foreign Nations were ranged on wide, curved avenues-- affording an interesting aspect.

Just south of the _Foreign_ and _State Buildings_ we observed a considerable expanse of the lagoon, with inlet to the lake, encompa.s.sing three islands. On the largest one stood--contrasting agreeably in appearance with the other edifices--the _U.S. Fisheries Building_, Spanish-Romanesque in style and flanked at each end by a curved arcade connecting it with two polygonal pavilions.

Leaving the Intramural Train at the North Loop, we arrived at the Government Building; thus having completed our round-trip on the Fair Grounds and Midway Plaisance.

When we returned to our floating home, we had the satisfaction of having obtained the best possible results of our first visit by properly utilizing every minute.

It will be obvious to the reader that the excursion just described, was equivalent to a trip around the world; wherefore I am ent.i.tled to the a.s.sertion that it even surpa.s.sed Nellie Bly's remarkable feat who needed seventy-two days, six hours, and eleven minutes for accomplishing her circ.u.mterraneous voyage.

This success was due to the management of Mr. James, who made his intelligence effectual, in unison with great experience, gained by having attended the grand international expositions held in the course of several decades in the different sections of the globe.

Since there did not exist accommodations for a safe anchorage for yachts along the piers of the White City, we were obliged to sail back to the Chicago Harbor. The ride on the billows of Lake Michigan, however, was very enjoyable after the heat of the day. Fanned by the cooling sea-breezes, which we inhaled in the fullness of delight, our eyes rested in perfect rapture on the glorious panorama of the grounds extending toward the lake sh.o.r.e. The superb structures rising vaguely and obscurely in a shadowy expanse under the gloom of the growing twilight, were later beautifully illuminated by uncountable electric lights; from the powerful arc-light of 8,000 candles to the delicate incandescent lamp of one-sixteenth candle power gleaming like tiny fire-flies in the distance.

It filled us with amazement to cogitate, that human mind and manual skill could create a spot on earth looking so much like a conception of paradise.

The next morning when corroborating our nerves by a hearty breakfast, Mr.

James announced to us the programme of the day which set forth that we should witness in detail the attractions of the Midway Plaisance--a proposal that pleased us very much.

Having again disembarked at the pier of the Exposition Grounds, the Intramural Railway conveyed us rapidly--running with a velocity of twelve miles an hour--to the entrance of the International Highway.

We commenced with the attractions at the right hand side--and having pa.s.sed the displays of the _Diamond Match Company_ and the _Workingmen's Home_--the international Dress and Costume Exhibit, known as the _Congress of Beauty,_ attracted our attention. Between forty and fifty pretty living representatives pertaining to the fair s.e.x of different nationalities, races, and types were dressed in distinctive national or racial costumes.

The _California Nursery_ and _Citrus Tree Exhibit_ separated this Beauty Show from the _Electric Scenic Theater_, which may be regarded as a triumph of the modern progress in the electrical science. It depicted the changes of a beautiful Swiss Alpine scenery as such are gradually occurring from dawn till night--representing the magical and most wonderfully realistic effects ever produced by electric lamps.

Visiting the _Libbey Gla.s.s Works_, we obtained a very clear idea of the art of manufacturing gla.s.s--by following up the different processes of melting, blowing, cutting, spinning, weaving etc. all of which were in full operation in this exhibit.

In fact, the endeavor of this company to instruct the spectator in every detail of the work--was a complete success and exceedingly satisfactory.

The ingenious construction of their magnificent building was especially adapted to enable the daily throngs--resorting to it--to have every opportunity for observation; and judging from what we saw, and the various comments we heard, we should be inclined to feel that the management had every reason to be satisfied with their splendid effort.

The artistic products manufactured solely by this company, and shown in the diverse departments--as well as those, decorating the Crystal Art Display Rooms--equal anything in the past and present, not excepting the celebrated Bohemian and Venetian manufactures of world-wide fame; and certainly the exhibition of cut gla.s.s made by the Libbey Company at this Exposition, has established the fact, that foreign manufactures can no longer claim to turn out the best artistic work; for truly, in that rich and unrivaled display, the summit of clear gla.s.s making and magical effects in cutting and polishing have been achieved.

Especially attractive were the tapestries and fabrics woven from spun gla.s.s. This was decidedly notable in the marvelous dress woven from one loom for the Spanish Princess Eulalia at a cost of $2,500. That these goods also serve as a canvas does for artistic work--was evidently proved by the sundry beautiful effects of this kind in the Crystal Art Room.--It would be impossible to enumerate the various articles produced in this wonderful and interesting display; but it is safe to say--the working exhibit of the Libbey Gla.s.s Company--in their palatial and costly structure was one of the chief features of the Midway Plaisance and the ever memorable Columbian Exposition.

A gateway--reminding us of mediaeval times--ushered the visitor into the _Irish Village_ and _Donegal Castle_, a representative exhibit of Irish industry, art, and antiquity. The scenes there--were picturesque and uniquely Hibernian. In one of the cottages Irish lace-making could be noted; in another was shown by Hibernians the whole process of dyeing, carding, spinning and weaving home-spuns as well as various other branches of industrial developments in Ireland.

A few steps sufficed to transfer us from here--a representation of the extreme western portion of Europe to the most eastern country on the Eastern Hemisphere--j.a.pan; which fact demonstrated the verity: _Les extremes se touchent_. Entering the j.a.panese bazaar, we observed j.a.panese ladies and gentlemen selling articles manufactured in--and imported from Nipon.

A highly interesting study of the natives of West Java (Dutch East Indies)--their occupations--and their bamboo huts--could be had in the _Javanese Village_ exhibiting more than a hundred little men with bright and cheerful Malay faces, and thirty-six short women whose graceful movements were a source of attraction to thousands of visitors.

This scene of the tropical regions stood in striking contrast with a feature in immediate nearness--pertaining to a temperate clime--the _German Village_. Here, in the s.p.a.cious concert-garden shaded by the dense foliage of numerous oak-trees, two German military bands, one of the infantry and one of the cavalry--seventy-four men in all--gave grand _echt deutsche Militaerconcerte_. The group of typical German peasant homes, the Black Forest House, the Westphalian Inn, the Upper Bavarian Home, and the Spreewald House, together with the Hessian Rural Town-hall, and the Castle were exact reproductions of mediaeval times. A portion of this stronghold from a remote date, was given up to the ethnographic museum; a collection chiefly of implements of war and of chase, ill.u.s.trative of all periods beginning with the pre-historic and ending with the renaissance. An attractive group in wax const.i.tuted the figure of Germania, surrounded by German heroes from Arminius down to William I.

The _Pompeii Panorama_--near by--showed a very realistic representation of this city destroyed by the eruption of the Vesuvius in 79. This display was succeeded by the _Persian Theater_ and the _Model of the Eiffel Tower_.

We left the crowded roadway, and entered the narrow _Street in Cairo_ which made an imposing impression with its strange, oriental facades--the picturesque shops--and the quaint overhanging upper stories of the ancient Egyptian city. Natives of this African country--which is fertilized by the waters of the Nile--manufactured and had for sale Egyptian, Arabian, and Soudanese articles. Donkeys and camels were engaged in carrying visitors who chose to admire the busy thoroughfare seated on the backs of these animals. The native camel-drivers in their national costumes moved around and mingled with the strangers--which gave the populated street a peculiar charm to the eye, whereas the "b.u.m-b.u.m Candy" sold by Egyptian confectioners, afforded a strange sensation to the palate of the visitor.

Here, where the architecture, the surroundings, and the people were as far removed from anything American as could well be imagined, we really--for some minutes--were lost to all consciousness of being in that extremely modern city, called Chicago.

After having viewed the side attractions to which belonged the Egyptian temple--resembling the temple of Luxor--the tombs of the ancient kings, and fac-similes of mummies, we entered the _Algerian and Tunisian Village_. Besides a theater, it contained a great number of booths or bazaars in which a choice selection of goods of all kinds--peculiar to Algiers--was for sale.

Proceeding southward through the frequented avenue, we saw--in succession--the _Kilauea Panorama_, a vivid picture of the great volcano of _Hawaii_, with all the surrounding scenery--an _American Indian Village_, showing the remnants of some of the greatest North American Indian tribes, and their manner of living--and a _Chinese Village_ including a theater, a joss house, and a bazaar.

The most southwestern portion of the Midway Plaisance was occupied by the "Wild East Show" where performances were given by Bedouin Arabs. With their short Turkish swords--the cimeters--they accomplished feats of such intrepidity and daring as to cause the spectators' blood to coagulate in their veins.

Bending our steps westward again, our attention was fixed upon the attractions on the north; _id est_ on our right hand side.

Very striking to our eyes were two exhibits the comparison of which established the fact that they were as unlike each other as could be fancied. Not only that the two villages contrasted greatly by their external appearance; but the scenes and inhabitants that they encompa.s.sed, were in direct opposition. Reader, can you realize that here from the North Pole to the Equator there was but one step? _Laplanders_, from the Arctic region in Europe, the next-door neighbors of barbarians from the Torrid Zone in Africa? Although both low in the scale of humanity, the fierce and savage _Natives of Dahomey_ with their repulsive habits exhibited the characteristics of the very undermost order of mankind.

But the mind was at once relieved from this sad picture of human debas.e.m.e.nt by the refined and attractive scenes in the _Austrian Village_, inclosing realistic reproductions of thirty-six buildings as they existed, more than a century ago, in old Vienna, deservedly eulogized in the song: