By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 6

Extending nearly nine miles in circ.u.mference, and rising at its highest point over 300 feet above the waves, we beheld the famous _Mackinaw Island_, which has filled an important place in the history of exploration. Here was the meeting place of the daring French _voyageurs_ and _aventuriers_, before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. Many wild and thrilling incidents in the lives of Marquette, Hennepin, and La Salle occurred on this island; and over at Point St. Ignace, in plain view, Marquette was escorted to his burial place by a hundred canoes of plumed and painted Ottawa and Huron warriors in 1677.

Just across, on the most northern point of the Lower Peninsula, stood old Fort Mackinaw, the scene of the terrible ma.s.sacre of the whites by the Indians under Pontiac in 1763.

On this island were fought two battles in the war of 1812. It was here that Schoolcraft wrote his celebrated History of the North American Indians, and the Legend of Hiawatha, which Longfellow, visiting him here, afterward expanded into a poem.

The island's varied scenery, and its history and traditions, have been portrayed in vivid word pictures by Marion Harland in a book, bearing the t.i.tle "With the Best Intentions," by which she has recently added to her wide fame.

Having crossed the strait at its narrowest part four miles in width, we caught sight of the beautiful waters of _Lake Michigan_, the only one in the group of the North American great lakes which extends entirely within the territory of the United States, having a maximum breadth of eighty four miles, and a depth varying from 700 to 1,000 feet. Its length amounts to 345 miles from the northwestern corner of Indiana and the northern part of Illinois to the Straits of Mackinaw.

We followed the same route which more than two centuries ago was taken by Jacques Marquette who, in the spring of 1673, with Joliet for his chieftain, and five other Frenchmen, embarked at Mackinaw in two frail bark canoes.

The disposition to pause for an instant, and to reflect upon the character and circ.u.mstance of our luxurious voyage as contrasted with that of these few adventurers in their fragile birch canoes--a little over 220 years ago--is almost irresistible.

On that occasion it was a journey of extreme peril--with no friendly populous havens at which the necessary commodities could be obtained.

Those densely wooded sh.o.r.es afforded no hospitable refuge to these hardy men, and their destination or return was a question of great uncertainty.

We pushed along with the marvelous propeller and, surrounded with every comfort, had the a.s.surance of each evening anchoring in some safe harbor--encountering cheerful voices, and seeing glad faces--with the possibility of daily finding everything we wanted, in profusion. There was the postoffice, with its rapid service at our disposal, or the electric telegraph, by means of which we could communicate with every part of civilization, ever within our reach--and the climax of modern genius in the magnificent structures of the Columbian Exposition awaiting us--the marvel of the nineteenth century, with its unparalleled aggregation. The thought is overwhelming! And could these explorers have seen in a dream--what we witnessed in reality--it would have seemed to them an impossibility that so short a time could have brought about such great events.

The eastern lake sh.o.r.e was richly garlanded with forests displaying a vast mult.i.tude of verdant hues, varying through all the shades of green. Over the whole the azure of the sky cast a deep, misty blue; blending toward the rocks of lime- and sandstone, seemingly embracing every possible tint and shade of color.

Having achieved a course of sixty miles, the yacht cast anchor in the excellent harbor of St. James on _Beaver Island_, a large tract of land covering an area of 3,700 acres. Vessels of various kinds and shapes lay moored in this s.p.a.cious inlet. Being wind-bound, we tarried for two days, which gave us opportunity to become acquainted with the features of the island. We were informed that it is identified with the history of Mormonism; since it was first settled by adherents of that sect, who robbed the ships entering this port, and who led the lives of pirates.

After their leader was killed in one of the numerous combats which ensued with the attacked sailors, they abandoned the place; but the habitation of the Mormon chief is still existing, probably the only vestige left here of the followers of Joseph Smith.

At 1 o'clock A.M., on Wednesday, August 16th, we departed from Beaver Island. The pilot had guided the "Marguerite" on a course of about forty-five miles southward, when we approached _Northport_, Michigan, a place noteworthy for having not a single of those maleficient inst.i.tutions, commonly styled beer-saloons.

We lingered two hours at the dock of this town. The white fields of blinding mist floated along the winding valleys of the low lake sh.o.r.e; and from the dark clouds curtaining the sun, the rain fell continuously. Thus the landscape on our left bore a gray and dim tincture.

Before the darkness of evening had gathered about us, the yacht was made fast to the dock of _Frankfort_, on the Michigan coast, a small place with a population of about 1,000, romantically situated. Taking our departure from the town on the following morning, we observed that the fog, covering the surrounding landscape with a thick, impenetrable veil, increased in density until it seemed as if from moment to moment additional tints of sombre gray were united to the haze. In fact, after a while we were unable to discern the outline of the coast, having to pursue our way with great caution.

After the lapse of four anxious hours, we had the great satisfaction to hear the welcome sound of the fog-horn of _Manistee_, the county seat of Manistee County, in Michigan. It is situated at the mouth of the same-named river, which is navigable for vessels, drawing ten to twelve feet of water, for the distance of one and one-half miles to Manistee Lake. Largely engaged in lumber trade, the city has a score of saw-mills and about as many shingle-mills, the latter of which produce annually 450,000,000 shingles, the largest number made at any one place in the world. In consequence of the discovery in 1881 of a bed of solid salt, thirty feet thick, extensive salt factories are being built. The population of the city has rapidly increased in later years, comprising about 14,000 residents at present. The surrounding district is especially adapted for fruit-growing; and sportsmen are attracted to the Manistee River and its tributaries by the abundance of the otherwise rarely found grayling.

Since we expected company on board the "Marguerite" in the evening--Mr.

Wilkinson, a citizen of Milwaukee, who intended to make us acquainted with his wife, we went on sh.o.r.e immediately after dinner to view the city, so as to return in time to meet our visitors.

Manistee made the impression of a flourishing business town. The comparatively long trading thoroughfare is a broad street nicely laid out, and adorned with numerous stately buildings and s.p.a.cious stores.

Not long after our departure from Manistee, which occurred early on the following morning, a sudden squall threatened us; and a few minutes later, a terrific flash and peal broke almost simultaneously upon us, followed by a violent shower. Fortunately, it lasted but a short time. The tempest gradually ceased; the irregular and blinding flashes became fewer and the thunder rolled less loudly. Gradually the scene changed to one of peaceful beauty so that the rose light of the radiant sun-ball appeared in the heavens; casting a new glory on the picturesque scenery of water and sh.o.r.e.

The surface of the lake had become calm; and speeding along, we enjoyed the lovely weather which was not destined to continue. For, toward midday a fresh breeze rippled the waters that by degrees were transformed into towering waves, shaking their foamy crests, and tossing us angrily from side to side; and we were not sorry when we reached the harbor of _Muskegon_, about six miles from Muskegon City, situated on the same-named river which here, four miles from its mouth, widens into Muskegon Lake. It is the best harbor on the east side of the great lake. The city has daily steamboat navigation with Chicago; and saws and ships enormous quant.i.ties of lumber. Its princ.i.p.al manufactories are a number of foundries, machine shops, and boiler works. The present population is estimated to comprise about 24,000.

While admiring the lovely scenery enhanced by an enchanting sunset, from the deck of the yacht, our attention was distracted by approaching footsteps. In the uncertain, fading daylight, we perceived a gentleman accompanied by a lady--curiously regarding us--whom we invited on board the "Marguerite."

Mrs. and Mr. Wickham were the names by which this fair couple was introduced. That they spent the evening in our company, was very acceptable to us--as we but rarely had visitors on our pilgrimage. They greatly admired our floating home, and as the moon arose to bathe us with his silvery light, they took their departure.

The young archer--morn--broke his arrows on the remote hills, walking golden-sandaled down the lake, when we continued our voyage.

The still waters were soon lashed into fury again by an unfavorable wind, increasing toward midday to such a degree that we were glad to take refuge in the harbor of _South Haven_, where we lingered until the dawn of another day.

Opposite the mooring-place of the "Marguerite" stood an edifice whose interior we all longed to view. Having so unexpectedly become acquainted with the Life-Saving Service on the occasion of our adventure near Thunder Bay, we were anxious to learn more about that n.o.ble inst.i.tution. In the afternoon we set out for the South Haven Life-Saving Station whose captain, an obliging gentleman, gave us very satisfactory explanations. He first called our attention to the splendid qualities of the life-boat: such as its power to right itself if upset; the capability of immediate self-discharge when filled with water; its strength; resistance to overturning; speed against a heavy sea; buoyancy; and facility in launching and taking the sh.o.r.e.

We then inspected the diverse apparatuses utilized for rescuing the shipwrecked.

A very clever contrivance, especially appropriate for saving invalids, children, and aged persons is the metallic car, a small covered boat, which can hold three or four persons who, entering by a comparatively small aperture, are shut in and drawn ash.o.r.e, safely protected from injury even though overturned by the surf.

For projecting a line over a stranded vessel a howitzer is used; and in this way a communication is secured to the sh.o.r.e. The cork life-belts worn by the men, are of the plan first designed by Admiral Ward.

It is safe to say that the United States Life-Saving Service is chief among the life-boat societies of other nations, both as regards the extent of coast embraced, and the amount of work done. The whole support of this service is provided for by annual grants from Congress. Besides its vast coast line, it guards the sh.o.r.es of its great lakes. Since the sea-bordering portions of America in many places are dest.i.tute of human habitations, the constant employment of surfmen is required for the express purpose of looking out for vessels in distress and manning the surf-boats. It also necessitates the erection of houses of refuge provisioned so as to afford shelter and food to shipwrecked sailors for a considerable time at places, where without such provisions those who escape the sea, would probably perish from hunger and exposure.

The sh.o.r.es of the United States lakes and sea comprise over 10,000 miles, embracing almost every variety of climate and formation of land. This great extent of sea-board is divided into twelve districts with in all 244 stations. Of these 182 are on the Atlantic, forty-nine on the lakes, and twelve on the Pacific. Many of the stations are closed during the fine months of the year; their crews being disbanded till the winter gales again summon them to their heroic and dangerous work. That they render n.o.ble service in this way, may be gathered from the annual reports.

The official statement of 1893 shows that the disasters to shipping in that year amounted to 427 cases; that on board of vessels thus endangered there were 3,565 persons of whom 3,542 were saved.

After we had thus enriched our knowledge referring to this humane inst.i.tution with its present effective system, we proceeded to the neighboring sh.o.r.e of Lake Michigan, here forming a beautiful beach. The polished and print-less sand studded with small, shining pepples spread before us in vast expanse; and the magnificent waters of the lake glittered in the sun-beams as though they were sown with diamonds. When the surf came in, and the white fringe of the sliding wave shot up the beach, the light color of the sand was deepened to a silvery gray. As much as we marred and defaced its fine-grained, bright surface, it was ever beaten down anew by the advancing and retreating waves. We had hardly deserted this lovely spot, when our foot prints were washed away by the ever returning sea.

On Monday at an advanced hour in the evening we departed from South Haven.

Since the glories of the sunset, with its witchery of rose and gold, promised a fine night, we decided to continue our voyage as far as Michigan City.

The panorama we witnessed during that nocturnal trip was as magnificent as can be imagined. The full-orbed moon on the wave was beautiful; and so was the landscape bathed in its light.

Toward 10 o'clock we arrived at our destination, a town in La Porte Co., Indiana.

_Michigan City_ is the largest lumber-market in the State, and has numerous manufacturing establishments. As a lake-port, it is a place of considerable prosperity comprising a population of about 11,000.

It was in the early morning, Tuesday, August 22nd, that we left Michigan City. Having sailed along the coast of the lake for about three hours, we discerned in the misty distance the site of the "Queen of the West."

At twenty minutes to 9 o'clock, it became plainly cognizable. In transports of delight we glanced at a vast, verdant tract of land adorned with magnificent structures appearing to be of the purest marble; in their matchless beauty imparting to the mind some grand allegorical _tableau_, intending to convey the poet's idea of the New Jerusalem.

It was the famous _White City_, the site of the World's Columbian Exposition, that charmed our eyes and gratified our taste so much. No one can adequately describe that sight as seen from the clear waters of the lake.--I imagine that our ill.u.s.trious Columbus must have been equally affected as he beheld Guanahani, that fruitful island in its wild luxuriance, on his first landing in the New World.

CHAPTER IV.

STAY IN CHICAGO AND VISIT TO THE WORLD'S FAIR.

Our arrival in Chicago put an end to our pleasurable voyage comprising the considerable length of 1,243 miles, during which

"The waves were our pillow, Our cradle the sea: When rough was the billow Not timid were we."

This westward trip afforded us every hour a revelation of the surprising growth of the nation that lives under the Stars and Stripes. My traveling companions were equally delighted with this course, notwithstanding their being preacquainted with that portion of the west, whose rapid development makes it practically a new and another west every ten years. In fact, America astonishes the world; and it is no common pleasure to study and note the progress of this great republic of which Chicago is the second city in commercial importance, as well as in population.

We were anxious to obtain an adequate conception of the site of a city that is the synonym of push and prosperity, and to which Congress had awarded the World's Columbian Exposition. Therefore, the yacht was moored inside the breakwater, near the mouth of the inlet, called the Chicago River, which runs from the lake nearly one mile westward; then separates into two branches, one flowing northwest, the other southwest; thus dividing Chicago into three divisions, connected by more than thirty-five bridges, and two tunnels laid under the bed of the river. This streamlet used to empty into Lake Michigan; but a remarkable piece of engineering caused it to change its course and so to speak, run "uphill." The Illinois and Michigan Ca.n.a.l, with which the main branch of the river is connected, was so deepened as to draw the water out from the lake, so that--through this channel emptying into the Illinois River--the water of Lake Michigan flows into the Gulf of Mexico by means of the Mississippi River. Had it been later in the season, we might have decided to follow this watercourse in order to view the fertile Mississippi River Valley, and to enjoy the beauties of the sunny south.

The largest vessels may be towed into the Chicago River, being supplied with docks and water-slips and affording a dockage capacity of nearly forty miles.--Originally named Chacaqua River, (the Indian word for thunder, after the Indian Thor or Thunder G.o.d), it is supposed to have given the city its name.

At midday we left our anchorage--on which the eye of heaven shone almost too hot--and undertook our first trip to the Fair Grounds. Seated on deck, we inhaled the invigorating, fresh breeze sweeping over the lake and modified by the burning rays of the sun that kissed the brilliant, blue waters beneath, with his golden face, gilding them with heavenly alchemy.