By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 8

Es gibt nur a Kaiserstadt Es gibt nur a Wien; Da muss es praechtig sein, Da moecht' ich hin!

Having arrived at the center of the s.p.a.cious promenade, we ascended one of the six northern platforms, communicating by turns with thirty-six aerial coaches, suspended by an iron axle to the periphery of the mammoth _Ferris Wheel_. A conductor invited us to step into a coach, as the appropriate moment had arrived, whereupon we entered a car having the seating capacity of forty persons, and almost the size of an ordinary Pullman Palace Car.

Ere we were conscious of any movement, the monster wheel was slowly revolving in response to the powerful machinery by which it was operated--a trophy of the modern era of eminent progress. The total weight of the moving ma.s.s was 1,200 tons; and its construction involved the expenditure of $400,000. Reader, if you have not experienced the charm of this circular ride through a circ.u.mference of about 785 feet, you hardly can convey to your mind the conception of the fascination it afforded.

Since the motion of the coaches was almost imperceptible, we could enjoy the trip--(viz)--two complete revolutions of the wheel--without the least excitement naturally aroused by rapid movement. Imagine the sensation of being carried up 250 feet on one side--and of being slowly lowered on the other; fancy the enjoyment and delight when gradually gaining a complete view of the Fair Grounds and the Midway Plaisance--a bird's eye-view of the whole of Chicago--and also a good portion of Lake Michigan. Dear reader, you will certainly acknowledge the fact that such a ride surpa.s.sed any similar brief journey ever taken. For, what other device for transportation can maintain the claim of enabling its pa.s.sengers to look upon the whole world during twenty-five minutes!--

"When you get used to the motion Only delight you will feel: Gone is each terrified notion Once in the circle of steel.

And you enjoy the commotion Clap and applaud with much zeal: For it surpa.s.ses old ocean To ride in the great 'Ferris Wheel.'"

The sun--being almost too liberal in the expenditure of heat--made us long for a refreshing breeze. Therefore we decided to ride in the _Ice-Railway._ Here we had opportunity to feel the excitement caused by velocity of motion. For a seventy mile-an-hour locomotive would have been monotonous and tiresome in comparison with a dash around the ice-railway track, containing 850 feet, and covering an elliptic s.p.a.ce whose surface had a coat of ice nearly an inch thick. Over this smooth and glistening substance the bobsleigh was gliding with the speed of a toboggan and the ease of a coaster to the merry jingle of sleigh bells.

This exhibit--whose cost amounted to $100,000--gave an example of inventive genius, and also of the successful application--in a novel manner--of the principles of refrigeration.

The beautiful building next to the Ice Railway environed an excellent imitation _en miniature_ of the magnificent _Cathedral of St. Peter_ in Rome, its size being one-sixteenth of the original. When viewing this model, the elaborate papal throne, and the Vatican Guards in the exact uniform of the pope's attendants, one might imagine to have been conveyed into _la bella Italia_ by the agency of a magic wand.

Promenading more eastward, we found ourselves _vis-a-vis_ the _Moorish Palace_, a fine reproduction of Saracenic architecture, the famous Alhambra in Granada, Spain.

The attractions exhibited in the interior of this structure could, indeed, bear a comparison with those offered in a realm of enchantment. The optical illusions, produced by ingeniously arranged mirrors, were a pleasing surprise to the visitor. Luxuriant palms decorating the labyrinthian garden appeared to be endless in number--casting their shade over hundreds of life-like figures in gaudy costumes. Each of these groups in wax, was multiplied again and again in the perspective of mirrors.

Entering the palace, the visitor was unable to shake off the feeling of perplexity caused by the extraordinary spectacles to be witnessed within its walls. The most startling surprises were the bottomless well, the cave, the monster kaleidoscope, and the panopticon. A touching scene, produced in wax, represented the execution of the unfortunate Queen Marie Antoinette. So realistic was its effect that many tender-hearted mortals could not refrain from shedding tears of sympathy for the ill-fated consort of Louis XVI of France.

A personage of special interest in the _Turkish Village_ was "Far-a-way Moses"--the celebrated guide and counselor of Americans, visiting the sh.o.r.es of the Bosporus--who has been immortalized by Mark Twain. With a pleasant smile his popular face, he gave a cordial greeting to every visitor.

The various scenes const.i.tuted a true reproduction of Ottoman life. The decorations in the Turkish theater were in purely oriental style; and the representations on the stage showed the manners and customs of the countries embracing the Turkish Empire. The Bedouin Camp, north of the grand bazaar, displayed the peculiarities of a nomadic life of those Arabian tribes.

Adjacent to a Turkish cafe, the _Panorama of the Bernese Alps_ was on exhibition. A beautiful painting showed the grand scenery of Grindelwald, the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau, Schreckhorn, Jura, the village of Lauterbrunnen, and the little town of Thun.

Ushered by a gate into the _Joh.o.r.e Village_, we viewed the habitations, weapons, apparels, and curiosities of that Malay tribe. The performance given by one of the natives stood in striking contrast with what we understand by the art of dancing. In fact, it was more a series of graceful poses with slow rythmic movements of hands and feet. This peculiar dance effected a strange impression upon us; but seemed to amuse our Baby Virginia beyond measure, who, on the arms of her faithful nurse, attempted to produce movements similar to those she had just witnessed.

The _South Sea Islanders' Village_ exhibited Malays from Sumatra, Borneo, Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, and other islands belonging to Oceanica. The huts and their occupants had a strong resemblance with those of the Javanese village whose inhabitants, however, were more agreeable-looking people.

Paying a visit to _Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena_, we first admired his famous menagerie, which comprised rare varieties of quadrupeds, and a fine collection of birds.

In a circus modeled on the plan of the Coliseum of Rome, we witnessed performances that evinced the wonderful docility Mr. Hagenbeck's animals possess, and manifested the complete control their trainers have over them.

We had already seen innumerable circus feats; but those performed on this occasion, surpa.s.sed them all. For, such a perfection in training ferocious animals is extremely rare. _Vraiment_, the five Nubian giant lions afforded an imposing aspect; and their performances were simply marvelous, indicating that--while human ingenuity and skill subdued the great forces of nature to the use of mankind--also the fierce, majestic king of beasts is made submissive to man's will by his master power over all.

_Industrial_, _Mining_, _Diving_, and _Horticultural Exhibits_ occupied the remaining s.p.a.ce of this eastern portion, whose extremity was taken up by _Lady Aberdeen's Irish Village_. Here the displays were similar to those inclosed in Mrs. Hart's Irish Village, already described; but the novel feature of _Blarney Castle_ was the renowned Magic Stone, supposed to possess extraordinary virtues.

Thus, the unique Highway through the Nations afforded a prolific source for sight-seeing, and furthermore, was a sore trial to our organs of hearing. Musical and unmusical instruments of every description were in operation--from the Javanese salendon and pelog to the tuneful instruments, masterly handled by the excellent German bands.

This visit to the Midway Plaisance established the fact, that the theories--admitted by the study of geography--could not be brought into consideration. How should s.p.a.ce and time be in existence when a few steps sufficed to convey us from the land of perpetual snow to the zone of exotic plants and tropical fruit!

"Who can all the tribes and nations name That to Plaisance from every climate came?"

The Chinese and Turk, German and Cingalese, Esquimaux and Javanese, Irishman and Polynesian, Bedouin and Laplander, Austrian and Soudanese, Syrian, Nubian, and j.a.panese--all had a temporary home within the limits of a tract of land covering eighty acres.

The sinking sun which crimsoned the structures of the Midway Plaisance, exhorted us to abandon this place of international _rendez-vous_--and to return on board the "Marguerite;" since she was to convey us back to the Chicago Harbor.

Gliding along on the crystalline lake,

"We breathed the airs, not ruffling its face.

Until we came to a quiet place."

The latter we chose for our nightly abode; again casting anchor in the so-called Basin near the Chicago Breakwater.

The approaching night fully deserved its t.i.tle--the season of silence and repose. The atmosphere was unusually mild. In the eastern portion of the sky the light of _Luna_ grew brighter and brighter. Her large, white circle silvered the tranquil waters and the environing scenes. In front of us at the airy distance, we viewed the beautiful White City rising from out the wave as from the stroke of the enchanter's wand; being brilliantly illumined. Around us lights of many colors flashed from vessels of every description that lay moored in our vicinity. The scenic beauty of the surroundings, the balmy air, the charming quietude on the lake--all this fascinated us in such a manner as to make us reluctant to seek the repose, to which we were ent.i.tled by the long day's extraordinary experiences.

On arriving at the Exposition Grounds the following morning, we observed that--in spite of the early hour--the promenades were unusually frequented. This fact was due to the celebration of the Illinois Day which had attracted a mult.i.tude of citizens from Chicago and environs. In accordance with our unanimous desire--to first view the interior of the largest edifice, we entered one of its four great entrances designed in the manner of triumphal arches. The MANUFACTURES BUILDING was erected for the purpose of accommodating all cla.s.ses of leading industries--the products of modern machinery and man's skillful handiwork--which, in this epoch of constant progress, have attained a high stage of perfection. And comparing the achievements of the present age with those recorded in the annals of history, proves that opinion.

Having stepped into the central aisle at the northern end of the mammoth structure, we found ourselves in a broad street, called Columbia Avenue.

Glancing around, we were dazzled by the resplendent glory of an aspect almost overpowering. The fine display included those exhibits which exemplified most advantageously the modern industrial progress made by the various nations on the globe. Artistic pavilions, oriental paG.o.das, and quaint kiosks had been provided for most of the exhibits. The United States section--covering the entire range of manufactures, and extending from the extreme northwestern corner to the avenue east and west--evinced the high rank of the Union in the industrial world in consequence of its uncommon wealth, and the inventive genius of Americans in the production of labor-saving devices and improved machinery.

All the great firms were represented, commending the abnormal variety of domestic industries. It was, indeed, a matter of difficulty to decide which of them was paramount. Tiffany's costly exhibits in jewels, especially diamonds, housed in a beautiful pavilion, attracted the visitor's eyes.

Opposite this structure, Germany had a stately building. Gobelin tapestries and handsome furniture adorned its interior. The elegant rooms were modeled after the reception _salon_ of the Imperial Palace in Berlin, and that of King Louis of Bavaria. All the various products of industrial pursuits--inclosed in this pavilion--manifested the intelligence and dexterity of the German nation.

Austria had a rich display, princ.i.p.ally in jewelry and ornamental decorations, in an adjoining edifice. A splendid collection, including everything in the line of manufactures, was shown in the English Pavilion, which rose south of the German exhibits. Facing the former, France occupied a structure whose walls were adorned with costly tapestries, and whose ceramic, furniture, and household decorations were worthy of the highest admiration. Next to the Belgian section a sumptuous pavilion housed an enormous outlay of diverse Russian manufactures.

At the southern end of Columbia Avenue a magnificent building formed the gateway to a rich collection of Italian art ware and industries. The handsome Spanish Pavilion was succeeded by typically Persian exhibits consisting prominently of carpets, curtains, silk needlework, and tapestries. Mexico, the land of _manana_ and _poco tiempo_ was represented by costly decorations and art feather-work. The facade of the Siamese structure--close by--covered with gold leaf, was imposing and attractive.

Displays of manufactured goods had been made by scores of other countries, all of which to enumerate would be an impossibility.

As we reached the northwestern portion of the gigantic building, we were delighted with the sight of the j.a.panese Pavilion, one of the most valuable structures. Upon its construction the j.a.panese government had expended a great amount of money. The superb exhibits in works of art, bric-a-brac, and other exquisite manufactures brought to view by this nation, evinced an eminent talent and great ingenuity.

The Mikado--to whom is due the rapid progress civilization has made in his country within the last ten years--was the first of the foreign monarchs to demonstrate an active interest in the exposition.

The melodious chimes resounding from the belfry of a clock-tower in the center of Columbia Avenue, caused us to take notice of the rapidly elapsing time. To our surprise, the immense time-piece indicated an advanced hour in the afternoon.

We could not abandon the superb temple, so amply filled with the products of human industry, embracing that which was regally magnificent, as well as that most applicable to our daily needs--without an enthusiastic thrill. If man is weak in many things, he is also grand in much; and every thoughtful observer must have paused upon this threshold to pay a tribute to that untiring energy which must make the world better for its existence and progress.

We entered the next great structure to the northwest. Here, the GOVERNMENT of the UNITED STATES from its Executive Departments, the Smithsonian Inst.i.tution, the U.S. Fish Commission, and the National Museum, exhibited such articles and materials as ill.u.s.trate the function and administrative faculty of the government in time of piece, as well as its resources as a war power.

Taking the south-entrance, our attention was first turned to the collection of the Smithsonian exhibits. They showed the results of scientific investigations during the forty-seven years of its existence, and the scope of its work.

The contributions from the National Museum represented the natural resources of the United States: Rare specimens of the American fauna; ill.u.s.trations showing the geological variations within the limits of the United States and the utilization of nature's rich gifts bestowed upon this country. This department gave us occasion to obtain an entire idea of the enormous melioration, arts and industries have experienced in modern times--by means of exhibits demonstrating the history and development of ceramics, graphic arts, musical instruments; as well as many important trades from the most primitive stages to the present day. Here also were interesting studies in ethnology, prehistoric anthropology, archeology, religious ceremonials, zoology, mineralogy, and geology.

The Treasury Department--more westward--contained models, pictures, charts, and diagrams elucidating the Marine Hospital Service, Coast and Geodetic Survey, the Mint of the United States, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the U.S. Lighthouse Establishment, the Bureau of Internal Revenue, the Register's Office, and the Bureau of Statistics.

In the adjoining division a.s.signed to the Postoffice, we could trace the subject of transportation which plays so prominent a part in the history of civilization--by means of models, drawings, and pictures from the most incipient stages to the modern uses of steam and electricity.

The northwestern portion of this interesting building was given up to the Department of the Interior; embracing the Patent Office, the Bureau of Education, the Census Office, and the U.S. Geological Survey.

In the rotunda we viewed the "_Big Tree_," a section thirty feet in length, cut from Sequoia Gigantea, a tree 300 feet high whose diameter at the base covered a s.p.a.ce of twenty-six feet. It grew in the Sequoia National Park in the charming clime of California. Under the central dome were also shown 138 colonial exhibits--relics of historic value from days long gone by.

The War Department was well represented in all its branches; regarding uniforms and equipage, means of transportation, military engineering, shooting apparatuses, ammunition, etc.

Having visited the State and Justice Departments, we repaired to the division in which the government displayed (in the Department of Agriculture) a very complete and comprehensively arranged collection of grains obtained in this and other countries.

Very interesting were the adjacent exhibits, presenting to view the topics of food adulteration, entomology, pomology, botany, ornithology, and mammalogy; together with experiments in fibre investigation.