Baltimore Hats Part 3

Upon the occasion of celebrating the laying of the cornerstone of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in Baltimore, July 4, 1828 (a great event in the annals of the city), the exhibition of trades was a most prominent feature of the immense procession, and none made a finer display than the hatters. George Rogers commanded that division, a description of which is thus given in the Baltimore _Gazette and Daily Advertiser_ of July 5, 1828: "The hatters' car was drawn by four horses, showing the men at work in the several stages of hat-making.

The group attracted much attention; they carried a banner with a white ground, and on the shield was a beaver resting on a scroll bearing the motto: 'With the industry of the beaver we support our rights,'

crossed with implements of the trade, the whole supported by the motto: 'We cover all.'"

Bazil Sollers commenced business in 1799 at No. 68 Market street, a location on the north side of the street, four doors east of what is now Holliday street. In 1803 he removed to No. 22 Market street, also on the north side, four doors west of Harrison street; this latter place was previously occupied by Brant & Hobby as a hat store in 1801, and by Stansbury & Hobby in 1802. Mr. Sollers continued in business on Market street until the year 1831, when he removed to North Gay, No.

15, on the northwest corner of Front street. His factory was on East, now Fayette street, three doors east of Lemon street. Mr. Sollers continued in the manufacturing business until about the year 1840.

James Gould & Co. started hat-manufacturing at No. 3 Water street in the year 1802. Water street at that time was numbered from Calvert to South street, subsequently from South to Calvert, and lately renumbered as formerly. No. 3, the second building from Calvert, is now occupied by J. E. Warner & Co., commission merchants. In 1807 Joseph c.o.x succeeded to the business of James Gould & Co., and kept a retail store on the corner of South and Water streets. Mr. c.o.x had the reputation of making a superior cla.s.s of hats, excelled by no manufacturer in the country, selling at both wholesale and retail.

Requiring more extensive accommodations, he located his factory on the corner of Little Water and Calvert streets, where now stands the large warehouse of Keen & Hagerty, tinware manufacturers. In 1829, disposing of his hat business to Boston & Elder, he a.s.sociated with himself his son James, the firm becoming "James c.o.x & Son, dealers in hatters' furs and wools," at No. 1 South Liberty street. In latter years, the members of this firm having acquired a competency, retired from business.

Joseph Pearson was established as a hat manufacturer in 1809, having his shop on Green, now Exeter street, Old Town. He changed his business in the year 1824 to that of dealer in furs, for which Baltimore in early days was a good market, the _catch_ of the trappers of the Alleghanies and of the pioneers of the new West finding their way to Baltimore, and the otter and muskrat of lower Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina also coming in large quant.i.ties to this market. The fur business of Baltimore was then of sufficient importance for Jacob Astor to make Mr. Pearson his representative agent. In latter years the firm became Joseph Pearson & Son, dealers in hatters' furs and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, at 260 Baltimore street. All the members of this firm being dead, Edward Connolly, who was in their employ, succeeded to the business, afterwards changing it to a general hat-jobbing business, which is still conducted by Edward Connolly & Son at 207 W. Baltimore street.

John Amos was a well known and respected hatter of Old Town, who commenced business as early as the year 1809 at No. 39 Bridge street, on the north side of the present North Gay street, between High and Exeter. His "back shop," or factory, was on Hillen street. He continued business during the period of thirty years at the same place, and died in 1847 at the age of 67.

PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE.

No. 7.

Gleaning more closely in the historic field of the early part of the century, others are found whose enterprise contributed largely to this important industry of Baltimore, and whose successful prosecution of the hat business maintained the credit and position won by their predecessors.

In the year 1814 Runyon Harris erected a large hat factory on Fish, now Saratoga street. This building was about one hundred and twenty-five feet in length and two and a half stories high.

The business of this establishment was carried on under the style of "The Baltimore Hat Manufacturing Co." While evidence cannot be given, it may be inferred that Mr. Harris must, before this date, have been engaged elsewhere in the city in the manufacture of hats, as others entering into business about this time are known to have been apprenticed to Mr. Harris.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Ye old Hat Factory of Runyon Harris Balto. Erected in 1814]

In 1817 Aaron Clap & Co. commenced the retail hat business at 146 Market street, on the north side, five doors east of St. Paul street, and probably identical with the present 104 East Baltimore street, recently occupied by John Murphy & Co., Publishers.

Messrs. Clap & Co. having secured a good location by purchasing the factory of Runyon Harris, engaged extensively in the manufacturing business, which was continued by their several successors down to the year 1864, when results of the civil war (so disastrous to Maryland's manufacturing industries) caused its temporary abandonment, but the enterprise established by Messrs. Aaron Clap & Co. has, by an unbroken series of firms, continued to the present time, being now represented by Brigham, Hopkins & Co.

In 1817 Henry Lamson kept a first-cla.s.s retail hat store at No. 5 South Calvert street, the locality now the southwest corner of Carroll Hall building. In 1822 the firm of Aaron Clap & Co. and Henry Lamson consolidated, making the firm Lamson & Clap, and continuing the retail business at No. 5 South Calvert street, in connection with manufactory. Mr. Lamson in 1827 went to the West Indies in search of health, and died on the island of St. Thomas. He was a gentleman of much social refinement, and was held in high esteem as a citizen.

In the year 1827 the firm of Lamson & Clap was dissolved by the death of Mr. Lamson, and Mr. Wm. P. Cole was admitted, the firm becoming Clap, Cole & Co. After the death of Mr. Clap, which occurred in 1834, his widow's interest was retained and the firm was changed to Cole, Clap & Co.; following this, Mrs. Clap retired and Mr. Hugh J. Morrison became a member of the firm, which was made Cole & Morrison. In 1842 Thaddeus and William G. Craft became interested, the firm becoming Cole, Craft & Co., still continuing business at No. 5 South Calvert street (the same place established by Lamson & Clap). About the year 1850 the firm removed to No. 218 West Baltimore street, now 10 East Baltimore street and occupied by Likes, Berw.a.n.ger & Co., clothiers. In 1853 Mr. Cole a.s.sociated with him his son, William R., the firm being Wm. P. Cole & Son. In 1857 the firm moved to No. 274 West Baltimore street, present number 46, where they remained until the year 1867, removing then to occupy the building which they had erected at No. 30 Sharp street, now 24 Hopkins Place.

In 1861 Mr. Wm. T. Brigham was admitted to the firm, it then becoming Wm. R. Cole & Co. In 1870 the firm name was again changed to Cole, Brigham & Co., which was dissolved in 1877 by the withdrawal of Mr.

Brigham, in which year Mr. Brigham a.s.sociated with Robert D. Hopkins as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, locating at No. 128 West Fayette street (present number 211), which firm of Brigham & Hopkins continued until 1887, when it was changed to Brigham, Hopkins & Co. by the admission of Isaac H. Francis.

In 1884 Brigham & Hopkins erected the large and handsome building at the corner of German and Paca streets, which the present firm continue to occupy as a factory and salesroom.

In 1810 Andrew Ruff is found at No. 72 Camden street, likely to have been his place of residence. Whether he was then engaged in business is not known, but in 1817 he had a factory on Davis street between Lexington and Saratoga streets, the site now occupied by the stables of the Adams Express Company. About the year 1822 he established a retail store at 158 Baltimore street. In 1842 the firm was Andrew Ruff & Co., at 194 Baltimore street. At one time Mr. Ruff was foreman in the manufacturing establishment of Clap & Cole.

Henry Jenkins, in 1822, was a hat manufacturer at 28 Green street, Old Town, and from 1824 to 1830 Messrs. H. & W. S. Jenkins kept a hat store on the northeast corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets, where afterwards was erected the banking-house of Josiah Lee & Co., now occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company as a ticket office.

Joseph Branson was a hatter in the year 1827 at 182 Market street. He was a son of William Branson, who was engaged in the same business from 1796 to 1817. Joseph Branson ranked as the fashionable hatter of that time. He was a man of considerable military distinction in the State. He raised and commanded the famous Marion Rifles, a superb military organization of the city, to which was accorded the honor of receiving General Lafayette upon his visit to Baltimore in 1824.

Mr. Branson is said to have been the first to introduce a thorough system of military tactics in Baltimore. He served several terms in the City Council, and was an active, enterprising citizen. In the year 1831 he went out of business and took the position of inspector in the custom house.

Mr. Charles Grimes was a well-known hatter who commenced business at 42 Baltimore street about 1823. In 1831 he removed to No. 29 North Gay, near High street. He evidently had a love for his first choice, as in 1833 he is found again at 42 Baltimore street. Mr. Grimes retired from business as early as the year 1839. He was extremely fond of the Maryland sport of duck shooting, in which he was a.s.sociated with many of Baltimore's sporting gentlemen. In 1853 he removed to Philadelphia, enjoying a life of comfort and ease. He was an exemplary man in all the relations of life, and died in the year 1868 at the advanced age of 73.

In 1810 John Petticord was learning his trade with Jacob Rogers, being then fourteen years of age. His honesty and faithfulness were appreciated by his employer, and in 1814 he occupied the position of foreman in Mr. Rogers' factory. After continuing in that capacity for some time he commenced the manufacture of hats on his own account, continuing it until the feebleness of age compelled him to abandon it.

Thomas Sappington was a hat manufacturer who, in the year 1831, was located at No. 120 Baltimore street, which at that time was at or near the present number, 116 East Baltimore street. He had his factory on North street near Saratoga. It is known that he was in business for a number of years, but what year he commenced and when he abandoned business cannot be ascertained.

Victor Sarata was a Frenchman who located in Baltimore as early as 1838. He opened a retail store at 259 Baltimore street, and was the first one to introduce the silk hat in this city.

Wm. H. Keevil was a hatter doing a retail business in 1842 at 66-1/2 Baltimore street. He was evidently of the "buncombe" style, and conducted his business in a sensational manner, advertising extensively and brazenly, as will be seen from the following quotation from an advertis.e.m.e.nt of his printed in 1842:

"Who talks of importing hats from England while _Keevil_ is in the field? Pshaw! 'Tis sheer folly. For while he continues to sell his beautiful hats at his present reduced prices, any such speculation as importing hats from Europe will be 'no go' or 'non-effect.' The hatters, therefore, on the other side of the Atlantic had better keep their hats at home, as it would be quite as profitable for them to send 'wooden nutmegs' and 'sawdust hams' to New England, or coals to Newcastle, as hats to Baltimore to compete with the well-known _Keevil_."

His business existence could not have been of long continuance, as in 1850 his name is not found in the City Directory.

At the close of the first half of this century there were several who afterwards attained prominence both in business and a public capacity, among whom were Joshua Vansant, Samuel Hindes, Charles Towson, George K. Quail, James L. McPhail, P. E. Riley, John Boston, Ephraim Price, Robert Q. Taylor, Lewis Raymo and others, the last two mentioned being the only ones now living.

JACOB ROGERS.

No. 8.

To one man more than any other belongs the credit of establishing upon an extensive scale the hat business, which in the early part of the present century was so prominently identified with the growth and prosperity of Baltimore; that person was Jacob Rogers, whose business career in his native city extended over a period of more than fifty years, fortified by a reputation that brought the universal respect of his fellow-citizens, and leaving a worthy example for those succeeding him.

Jacob Rogers was born in the year 1766. As in those days boys were apprenticed at an early age, it may be supposed that when he was fifteen years old he was in the employ of David Shields, with whom it is known he served his term of apprenticeship at hat-making. In 1796 Mr. Rogers is found the proprietor of a retail hat store at the corner of South and Second streets. He was an enterprising man, and succeeded in building up a business of large proportions. He died in 1842, possessed of a fortune amounting to three hundred thousand dollars, a large acc.u.mulation for those days. In 1805 he built an extensive factory on Second street, near Tripolet's alley--now Post-Office avenue--and adjoining the old Lutheran Church, the spire of which then contained the Town Clock; these old landmarks are now all removed and the location occupied by the stately edifice of the Corn and Flour Exchange. The number of hands employed by Mr. Rogers at his factory and "front shop" was about one hundred, including apprentices. His "plank" shop comprised five batteries, aggregating thirty men; in the finishing shop he employed about twenty-five, and he had usually bound to him as many as fifteen apprentices. This would appear to be a large force for a hat-manufacturing concern of that early period, but it must be remembered that the manual labor bestowed upon one hat then was more than that on some thousands in the present day of labor-saving machinery.

That Mr. Rogers was a strict disciplinarian and an excellent business man is proven by the perfect control he exercised over the large number in his employ, whom he ruled with a firm hand yet with a wise judgment, and while rebuking any disobedience of orders, was feared, respected and loved for his strict sense of honor, justice and propriety.

He boarded under his own roof nearly all his apprentices to the trade; a few were privileged to lodge at home, while their board was supplied by their master, as one of the stipulations of their indenture; so Jacob Rogers' immediate family, which was not a small one, was greatly enlarged by the addition of fifteen to twenty wild, untamed "prentice" boys. What would have been the domestic condition of such a family without the ruling influence of a stern master only those can imagine who know the kind of material of which the journeyman hatter of those days was composed. He was a veritable tramp.

As a rule with Mr. Rogers, chastis.e.m.e.nt immediately followed misconduct; with him the present was the opportune time for punishment, and whether in the home, the shop, or on the street, any of the shop-boys were found doing wrong, correction was given in the then customary way--by flogging.

Mr. Rogers was a conscientious member of the Methodist Church, and maintained a high character for honesty and probity, and recognized as a fair man in all his dealings.

A good story is told to show how, though driving a keen bargain, he was careful not to misrepresent. In his store one day he was divulging to a friend some of the secrets of his business, showing how successfully a _prime_ beaver-napped hat could be made with the slightest sprinkling of the valuable beaver fur, a trick just then discovered. Soon after a purchaser appeared inquiring for a beaver-napped hat. Mr. Rogers expatiated upon the marvelous beauty of the "tile," and his customer put the question: "Mr. Rogers, is this a genuine beaver hat?" "My dear sir," said Mr. Rogers, "I pledge my word that the best part of the material in that hat is pure beaver." The hat was bought and paid for and the customer departed, well satisfied with his purchase. At once Mr. Rogers was catechised by his friend, who had earnestly watched the trade, remarking: "Why, Mr. Rogers, did you not tell me that there was but a trifling amount of beaver in that hat you just sold, and you, a church member, so misrepresent to a customer?" "My friend," replied Mr. Rogers, "I made no misrepresentation, I told my customer the honest fact, that the _best_ part of the material of which the hat was made was pure beaver, and so it was."

The journeyman hatter of Mr. Rogers' time was a character, migratory in his ways, his general habit being to work for a short time--a season or less in one place--then, from desire of change or lack of employment, to seek for pastures new. As railroad travel was not then thought of, and stage-coach conveyance a luxury at most times beyond the pecuniary means of the itinerant hatter, the journey was usually made on foot.

Application for work could not be made to the proprietor, but must necessarily go through the medium of an employee. Frequently an applicant in straitened circ.u.mstances who failed to be "shopped,"

appealed to his more fortunate fellow-workmen to relieve his dest.i.tute condition, who always made a ready and hearty response by providing for his immediate wants and starting him again on his pilgrimage with a light heart and a wish for good luck. This constant wandering habit frequently brought the hatter of those days to a condition of abject dependence, and supplied a large proportion of that vagrant cla.s.s now denominated "tramps." It was often the boast of these hatter "tramps"

that in the period of a year or two they would make the tour of the entire country from Portland, Maine, to Baltimore in the South, and Pittsburg, then "far west," "shopping" awhile in some town or village and then marching on in search of another chance.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Hat Store of Jacob Rogers.]

In the "season" when labor was in demand good workmen did not apply in vain, but most hat factories were subject to dull times between seasons, necessitating a reduction in the number of hands. This general plan was productive of irregularity in the habits of the workman, allowing him to have no settled place of habitation.

Baltimore, however, was an exception to the general rule, her factories providing constant employment for her workmen, thus encouraging a deeper interest in their vocation.