Am I Boring My Dog? Part 4

33. HOW DO I KNOW WHAT'S NORMAL VERSUS WHAT I NEED TO WORRY ABOUT?

Dogs do a lot of stuff that seems very strange to us and perplexes even people with advanced degrees in animalology. Because it's comforting to know what behavior belongs in the realm of peculiar but not unique, here are some of the most common examples of the peculiar.

EATING.

Some dogs eat dirt and/or gra.s.s. Others down nonorganic foreign objects, like TV remotes and pantyhose. And still others eat feces-their own, other dogs', other species'. (There's even a term for this taste for waste-coprophagia.) No one is entirely sure why dogs have such eclectic palates. The consumption of indigestible items is the biggest problem, because you'll have to pay for surgery if those pantyhose don't pa.s.s through without incident. But it's the p.o.o.p-eating that seems to drive people craziest, even though it's not generally harmful. My dog's adorable, they protest. How could he be so disgusting? Proposed cures include putting meat tenderizer in your dog's food-apparently it makes the p.o.o.p less yummy-or sprinkling Bitter Apple on the t.u.r.ds. The most logical solution: clean up after your dog immediately.25 BREATHING/VOCALIZATIONS.

Along with barking and howling, dogs pant. It's their method of air-conditioning: they cool themselves off by increasing evaporation in the respiratory tract. Some dogs don't pant much, except when it's really warm or after strenuous exercise. Others pant at the drop of a hat, whenever they're excited or nervous. The length of panting varies, too. The particular functioning of your dog's self-cooling unit will soon become evident to you.

Dogs also produce many un-doglike vocalizations. When I first heard Frankie sigh, for example, I was terrified that he was the reincarnation of my mother, queen of the emotionally fraught exhalation. I've come to see that, although Frankie inspires guilt in his own special way, his sighs signal impatience or satisfaction rather than disappointment with me. At least that's what I've chosen to convince myself they mean.

ELIMINATING.

Watch for differences when your dog goes to the bathroom.

Liquid Marking is the stop-and-start, back-leg-raised urinating that unneutered males do to say "I was here" (also known as pee-mail) or "I see your pee and I pee on it!" (a form of pooch poker called four-legged stud). But cross-peeing is also quite common: some laid-back males, even those neutered late, squat and empty their bladders completely, while some alpha females raise their legs and pee in short bursts. So don't worry if your pup likes to urinate outside gender stereotypes.

Solid I've already discussed feces eating. Dogs also do something called "scooting" or "scooching": dragging their behinds across the gra.s.s, the floor, or-particularly popular-your white rug. This might indicate something as simple as that your dog's b.u.t.t itches or that she wants to dislodge some dingleberries; it might, on the other hand, indicate that her a.n.a.l "glands"-the small, scent-bearing sacs that inspire dogs to sniff each other's b.u.t.ts-need to be drained.

Some people perform the fairly simple procedure of squeezing (expressing) these sacs at home, after being instructed on how to do so by a vet. Others-and I include myself in this category-are completely grossed out by the idea. What smells good to a dog doesn't always synch with human olfactory preferences, especially in concentrated form. I therefore pay a groomer to do it.

MOVING.

Digging comes naturally to many dogs, particularly terriers and other working breeds taught to keep their hunters' prey protected underground. These Earth relocation projects don't have to have an object; some dogs simply like digging for its own sake. Some digging, however, is related to burying food, toys, or anything else your dog wants to save for later. I wouldn't worry about h.o.a.rding unless your dog takes his kibble, bit by bit, to the backyard.

Perhaps more disconcerting than digging is the circling and scratching that many dogs do before they lie down. Some hypothesize that this might be a vestige from the days when wolves needed to clear snakes or other pests from the den. Sometimes Frankie roots around vigorously before he goes to sleep; sometimes he doesn't bother. I've never tried to determine whether there's a correlation between the length of his exploratory gestures and the cleanliness of my sheets.

And yes, there are doggie shrinks-called behaviorists. I'll talk more about them in Chapter 6.

34. WHAT SHOULD I DO IN CASE OF EMERGENCY?.

Be prepared. And try to stay calm.

Keep the number and address of your nearest emergency (24-hour) veterinary facility and the ASPCA's poison control hotline (1-888-426-4435) on your refrigerator and in your wallet. Keep a credit card number handy, too; there's a $60 fee for the poison hotline, and you'll be expected to pay a deposit for emergency care. Also, have a couple of people lined up who'll be able to help you get to the vet while you tend to your dog if necessary.

Put together or buy a first-aid kit (they're available at mega pet stores or large discount retailers). It should include the following: Muzzle, or the materials to improvise one (including a belt or necktie)Sterile gauze pads and gauze bandage rollsFirst-aid adhesive tapeNonstick bandagesTweezersScissorsResealable plastic bagsThree percent hydrogen peroxideAntibacterial ointmentEyedropperMilk of Magnesia or activated charcoalDigital or rectal thermometerSplint materials (tongue depressor or 12-inch wooden ruler) Have protective leather gloves, clean towels, and a blanket on hand, too.

Before trying to examine your dog so you can describe her symptoms to the emergency vet, muzzle her.26 When in pain, your ordinarily laid-back pup might lash out with her teeth. You won't be much help to her if you require medical a.s.sistance yourself. When in pain, your ordinarily laid-back pup might lash out with her teeth. You won't be much help to her if you require medical a.s.sistance yourself.

First-aid cla.s.ses and videos, especially those demonstrating CPR, are useful, but-except for keeping your dog still if you fear bone breaks or internal injury or trying to stop profuse bleeding by applying pressure-you should generally avoid doing anything without the advice of the professional whose number you'll have on hand.

One exception: As I've mentioned, dogs eat weird stuff all the time, so it's useful to know that you can perform a doggie Heimlich procedure. Just be sure your dog is actually choking, as opposed to having breathing problems: signs include pawing at the face and throat and attempting to cough, as well as blue lips.

When you're certain your dog's throat is obstructed ...

Try to calm her; fright might make her try to bite you when you open her mouth.Look down her throat to try to find the blockage. Make sure you actually see and identify something rather than just sticking your hand down and tugging at whatever seems not to belong. Dogs have small bones in their necks that can easily be mistaken for a stick or chicken bone.Use tweezers (or pliers) to try to remove the object, carefully ; don't accidentally move the object farther down the throat. ; don't accidentally move the object farther down the throat. If you can't see or easily get at anything, lift your dog's rear legs or, if she's small enough, hold her upside down by the hips. Gravity is your friend. If you can't see or easily get at anything, lift your dog's rear legs or, if she's small enough, hold her upside down by the hips. Gravity is your friend.Still nada? With your dog standing, put your hands below her rib cage and pull up into her abdomen quickly five times. If nothing comes out, try looking down her throat again; you may be able to see something now.

I don't recommend doing this in a moving car-especially not one you're driving-but you'll want to get to a vet as soon as possible, even if you manage to get your dog to cough up the goods (or, I should say, the bads).

35. ENOUGH ABOUT MY DOG'S HEALTH. CAN MY DOG MAKE ME SICK?

For the most part, no-at least not in the usual sense of transmitting diseases.27 Although pups and people suffer from some similar ailments, germs and viruses tend to be species specific. True, bugs and parasites that are dangerous to humans can pa.s.s unmolested through canine intestines-but that's only a problem if you pick up dog p.o.o.p with your bare hands or don't wash up after playing with your dog in the dirt where he's p.o.o.ped in the past. Somewhat less disgusting but no less lacking in common sense would be removing a disease-bearing tick from your dog without safely disposing of it, thus allowing the little bloodsucker to get under your skin. Although pups and people suffer from some similar ailments, germs and viruses tend to be species specific. True, bugs and parasites that are dangerous to humans can pa.s.s unmolested through canine intestines-but that's only a problem if you pick up dog p.o.o.p with your bare hands or don't wash up after playing with your dog in the dirt where he's p.o.o.ped in the past. Somewhat less disgusting but no less lacking in common sense would be removing a disease-bearing tick from your dog without safely disposing of it, thus allowing the little bloodsucker to get under your skin.

And, yes, you can get rabies if your rabid dog bites you, but if you own a vicious dog that hasn't been vaccinated, I somehow doubt you're reading this book.

Dog owners are, however, subject to a group of less widely reported and thus more insidious Canine-Related Injuries (CRIs). According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), an average of 76,500 people per year trip over their dogs. Most incidents occur during walks, when 31.3 percent reported that they "fell or tripped over the dog" and another 21.2 percent admitted they were "pushed or pulled by the dog." These statistics, based on data from emergency room visits, likely represent only a fraction of actual CRIs because, according to the CDC, "many people don't seek treatment after injuring themselves in accidents involving their pets."

Or they seek treatment outside of emergency rooms. A physical therapist friend told me that she has seen multiple cases of dislocated shoulders caused by sudden and vigorous tugging on the leash. A less typical CRI, but one with which I have personal experience, is tendonitis of the wrist that can result from letting a small dog rest his head on your hand while you're typing.

Most CRIs can be prevented by training-both of you and your dog. Work on ways to get your dog to stop tugging at the leash and to remind yourself to watch for underfoot pups.

More difficult is to train yourself to use common sense-say, when it comes to refusing your pup his chosen headrest.

But the health benefits that dogs confer far outweigh any potential problems. Studies have shown that dogs-and, okay, other warm-blooded pets that shall remain nameless-lower blood pressure and cholesterol; stave off depression; and hasten recovery from major surgery. And that's just for starters. So go kiss your dog, and let her kiss you back. Just don't lick your own face directly afterwards.

CHAPTER 4.

CHOWING DOWN.

36. HOW MUCH-AND HOW OFTEN-SHOULD I FEED MY DOG?

Not as much-and not as often-as he'd like you to. Dogs have the stockpile-for-starvation gene, which dictates, "Eat! You never know when you'll see your next meal."28 So unless you have a very evolved pup, he's not going to stop chowing down just because he's no longer hungry. The amount your dog actually needs-as opposed to what he'll eat-depends on his metabolism, age, and activity level, as well as on the type of food involved. So unless you have a very evolved pup, he's not going to stop chowing down just because he's no longer hungry. The amount your dog actually needs-as opposed to what he'll eat-depends on his metabolism, age, and activity level, as well as on the type of food involved.

I once used a dog sitter who didn't grasp this concept. She called me in a panic on the fourth morning of a trip because Frankie was throwing up copiously on every visible surface (but particularly on those that are tough to clean, like the couch and rugs). It turned out that she had ignored my written instructions and served Frankie vast bowls of food, which he happily consumed-until his 11-pound body rebelled. Running mini-marathons might have compensated for his gluttony, but Frankie takes his house-guarding duties very seriously while I'm gone, refusing to venture beyond the backyard. Home protection doesn't burn very many calories.

The dog sitter's defense-that she only fed Frankie the specified two times a day-brings me to the question of frequency. Because of their feast-and-famine pasts, dogs are designed to go without food for long periods. How long a period between feedings you want to enforce will depend on convenience-and guilt. If you're around your dog all day, he will try his best to wheedle food out of you. Twice-daily feedings give you less reason to project, "He must be hungry; I I would be." If you're away for a large part of the day-or aren't swayed by pleading looks-then feeding once a day is generally fine. Although dogs don't have a preference, most people, and especially those who leave home for work, prefer morning feedings, on the premise that a satisfied dog won't feel the need to chew on shoes or furniture (in Chapter 7, I also discuss keeping your dog occupied by putting part of his morning meal in a puzzle toy). And morning feedings eliminate the fear that your dog is only happy to see you when you get home because you're a meal ticket. would be." If you're away for a large part of the day-or aren't swayed by pleading looks-then feeding once a day is generally fine. Although dogs don't have a preference, most people, and especially those who leave home for work, prefer morning feedings, on the premise that a satisfied dog won't feel the need to chew on shoes or furniture (in Chapter 7, I also discuss keeping your dog occupied by putting part of his morning meal in a puzzle toy). And morning feedings eliminate the fear that your dog is only happy to see you when you get home because you're a meal ticket.

For large, deep-chested breeds that are p.r.o.ne to bloat-a life-threatening condition that requires surgery, not just a little gas-feeding smaller portions twice or even three times a day is a better plan. Some people even advocate free-feeding for these breeds, i.e., leaving food around all day so they won't inhale their food at mealtimes. Free-feeding is not recommended in general, however, not only because it's an invitation for most dogs to overeat, but also because constant access to food can make pups finicky.

37. WHAT ABOUT TREATS?.

In theory, treats should be reserved as training aids or as pet sitters. That is, foods that take a long time to consume-for example, peanut b.u.t.ter stuffed into a rubber Kong cone-are the canine version of popping your kid in front of a video when you need a bit of quiet time or when you're away from home.

In reality, it's tough to resist a hang-dog look or the urge to reward your pup for sheer doginess. Healthy snacks are a good way to resolve the dilemma. Dog biscuits and other cookielike products with little nutritional value-and huge price markups-are designed to appeal to you you. Dogs don't a.s.sociate apple slices, raw carrots, string beans, dried chicken strips, and other pooch-paunch deterrents with deprivation. So don't tell them.

Along with monitoring their nutritional content, you should dole out nontraining treats according to a set routine, the better to prevent free-floating begging. For example, Frankie gets something to nosh on whenever I sit down to eat-which makes me aware just how frequently this occurs. And my best friend Clare gives her dog Archie a snack whenever she opens a bottle of wine. As a friend of hers observed, "When Archie is obese, we'll know you're an alcoholic."29 38. IS IT OKAY TO MAKE MY DOG A VEGETARIAN?.

Not really. If you became a vegetarian to avoid cruelty to animals, why practice it on the one you've chosen to share your home with? Your dog could survive on a nonmeat diet, but she wouldn't thrive. That doesn't mean meat has to comprise the bulk of her menu, or that you have to handle uncooked hunks of it; leave the raw food diet (see question 45) to the carnivores.

39. WHAT'S BEST-WET OR DRY FOOD?

It depends on your dog-and on your budget.

Dry food or kibble is generally more economical than wet food and better for dental health because it's abrasive. Kibble is not necessarily as nutritious as wet food, however (which isn't saying much, in many cases of both varieties; see the following question). The canning process allows for the inclusion of a higher percentage of meat and the exclusion of chemical preservatives.

And wet food tends to be more palatable. Many dogs aren't wild about unadorned pellets-would you be?-so lots of people liven them up with anything from chicken broth to cottage cheese or wet food. This reduces the convenience and economy of kibble.

Smaller dogs and older ones with diminished appet.i.tes are often prime candidates for wet food, and big, young lugs usually do fine with kibble. In short, consider such variables as the size, health, and activity level of your dog-and your gag reflex. Dogs often love canned food but they love garbage, too. You may have a tough time dishing out a morning repast that looks and smells repellent to you.

40. WITH SO MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF KIBBLE AND CANNED FOOD ON THE MARKET, HOW DO I KNOW WHICH TO BUY?.

Let's start with what you can ignore when trying to decide about both varieties: terms such as "premium," "gourmet," "natural," "sensible," "scientific," and "holistic" are all meaningless buzz words designed to push your "I'm-a-good-dog-owner" b.u.t.tons. Don't bother paying attention to the pictures, either; that nice-looking steak on the package or can bears little resemblance to any meat form that might be inside. Nor does the name of the product provide much useful information. Something called "chicken formula" only has to include 25 percent of chicken products-not chicken meat-by weight. "With chicken" means only 3 percent chicken in some variation needs to be present.

For a better sense of what you're buying, go straight to the ingredients list, arranged in order of weight. Even here, you're on shaky ground. The ingredient specifications outlined by the a.s.sociation of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), which regulates the pet food industry, are a canine Da Vinci Code. The "crude protein" requirement, for example, says nothing about digestibility, so the protein source could be old shoes. For additional information-including details on the limitations of AAFCO,30 which has close ties to the industry it's designed to police-see The Dog Food Project, which has close ties to the industry it's designed to police-see The Dog Food Project, www.dogfoodproject.com.

The best practical guides to what to feed your pup are the Whole Dog Journal Whole Dog Journal's (www.whole-dog-journal.com) annual reviews of dry and wet dog foods. These not only explain labels and provide formulas for calculating nutrient levels but also recommend and pan specific products.

So with the caveat that this is just a rough outline, you want a wet or dry food that ...

CONTAINS MORE PROTEIN THAN GRAIN.

Having meat or another protein source as the first ingredient should be enough to ensure that the product is indeed primarily protein. But some manufacturers are sneaky, breaking down less desirable ingredients into component parts to get around putting them at the top of the list. For example, they might cite chicken first, followed by ground corn, corn gluten, corn bran-which, in combination, outweigh the chicken.

CONTAINS IDENDITIFIABLE PROTEINS AND FATS.

The protein source should have a recognizable, not generic, name. That is, it should be "beef," "lamb," "turkey," or "chicken" as opposed to "meat," "animal," or "poultry." That's true too for the "meals"-for example, "chicken meal" as opposed to "poultry meal." Avoid by-products and especially unnamed ones, altogether. In spite of their grainy-sounding appellations, meals are not undesirable-under AAFCO definitions, they're required to include meat, skin, and possibly bones in dehydrated form, but not not feathers, hair, innards, and other, even more disgusting things (appet.i.te spoiler alert: for example, tumors or euthanized dogs). feathers, hair, innards, and other, even more disgusting things (appet.i.te spoiler alert: for example, tumors or euthanized dogs).

Fats and oils, essential for skin and coat health, should have specific names, too. So you want "chicken fat" rather than "animal fat," "herring oil" rather than "fish oil," "sunflower oil" rather than "vegetable oil," and so on. Avoid anything that contains mineral oil altogether, because the "mineral" from which it's derived tends to be petroleum.

CONTAINS WHOLE GRAINS OR INTACT CARBOHYDRATE SOURCES.

Look for whole grains like brown rice (as opposed to brewer's rice), oatmeal, and whole ground barley, not "fragments" or flour. Corn is not always bad for dogs-though many are sensitive to it-but it has little redeeming nutritional value when in its most common pet food form: as a filler. Similarly, ingredients such as soybean meal, beet pulp, and cereal food, while not necessarily unhealthy on their own in small amounts, are cheap by-products of human food manufacturers that often turn up in pet products produced by the same companies. Sweet potatoes, potatoes, peas, and other starches that tend to turn up in higher-quality dog food are fine as carbohydrates sources.

CONTAINS NATURAL PRESERVATIVES.

You'll want derivatives of Vitamin E and C, including the former in its "mixed tocopherols" incarnation, the latter in forms like rosemary-, sage-, and clove extract, as...o...b..l palmitate, and as...o...b..c acid. Avoid the scarier acronyms: BHA, BHT, and TBHQ, along with ethoxyquin and sodium meta-bisulphite.

DOESN'T CONTAIN FOOD COLORINGS, SWEETENERS, OR SALT Dogs don't care about the hue of their food, so avoid anything that contains "numbered" dyes such as Red 40; they're designed to make greyish meat products look more genuinely meaty. Caramel coloring is probably the least noxious of these cover-ups.

Dogs do, on the other hand, fall for the unhealthy sweeteners that often turn up in poor-quality food to make them more palatable. They include cane mola.s.ses, corn syrup in any form, sugar, sorbitol, sucrose, fructose, glucose, ammoniated glycyrrhizin (the name alone should be enough to warn you off), and propylene glycol.31 Blackstrap mola.s.ses and honey are fine when consumed sparingly in treats; you just don't want large amounts of them in anything your dog eats on a regular basis, lest your pup start jonesing for sweets. Blackstrap mola.s.ses and honey are fine when consumed sparingly in treats; you just don't want large amounts of them in anything your dog eats on a regular basis, lest your pup start jonesing for sweets.

The same goes for salt (a.k.a. sodium chloride on many packages), which is no better for your dog than it is for you. As with sugar, it's used to make generic meat products more appealing. Give your dog enough food with this needless seasoning and he'll soon be competing with you for the pretzels and popcorn.

41. ARE DRY AND CANNED FOOD THE ONLY OPTIONS?.

No. Premixed (but requiring you to add ingredients such as meat and water), freeze-dried, dehydrated, rolled, frozen, and fresh-chilled (cooked and refrigerated before shipping) dog foods have become increasingly common in recent years. All claim to provide a healthy and balanced diet in a convenient, nonperishable (or at least long-lasting) form.

Not all are as balanced or as convenient as others-nor as appealing to every dog. I tried one of the dehydrated varieties, only to discover that, after adding water, I had to wait 10 minutes before the food reconst.i.tuted itself. Used to more immediate gratification when he spots me puttering around the kitchen, Frankie waited impatiently for dinner. Upon finally being presented with a doggie version of grits, he turned up his nose at the bowl. I'm not sure whether he wanted something to sink his teeth into, or whether it was an olfactory issue; Frankie refused to discuss it.

But that's hardly a statistically significant sample (except to me). I'm told that dog food rolls-which have the consistency of liverwurst-are so tasty that bits are used as training treats, and that they're the only thing some finicky pups will deign to dine on.

All in all, these products run the gamut in taste, texture, and Rex appeal. If you decide to use them in a diet plan, it's always best to check with your vet-and with the Whole Dog Journal, Whole Dog Journal, which has reviewed many of them. At a minimum, make sure you choose a food that's labeled "complete and balanced." which has reviewed many of them. At a minimum, make sure you choose a food that's labeled "complete and balanced."

42. AREN'T BETTER-QUALITY FOODS MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE THAN BIG COMMERCIAL BRANDS?

The difference in price between a high-quality company's food and a major manufacturer's "premium" product isn't all that significant, but with the big companies you're also paying for advertising, whereas the smaller businesses generally spend more on the product and less on pushing it. And for some niche varieties, such as freeze dried and dehydrated, you're eliminating the water weight that bulks up other products-and inflates their prices. To economize on high-cla.s.s kibble, buy in bulk and store the unused portions in sealed bags in a cool, dark place.

More to the point: pay now or pay later at the vet. c.r.a.ppy32 food is bad for your dog's health. Period. food is bad for your dog's health. Period.

43. HOW DO I AVOID FOODS THAT MIGHT BE RECALLED?.

With difficulty. If possible, restrict yourself to products that list the country of origin of their ingredients and the location of the manufacturing plant.33 When I realized that one of my (former) favorite brands of chicken strips, sold by a small company promoting its healthy products, were produced in China, I stopped buying them. The company claims that they spot test each batch and I'm pleased about the disclosure of the factory locale-which is more than many large manufacturers do-but I think I'll wait until they move their production to the United States in case some melamine slips through, thank you. When I realized that one of my (former) favorite brands of chicken strips, sold by a small company promoting its healthy products, were produced in China, I stopped buying them. The company claims that they spot test each batch and I'm pleased about the disclosure of the factory locale-which is more than many large manufacturers do-but I think I'll wait until they move their production to the United States in case some melamine slips through, thank you.

In September 2007, a few months after the ma.s.sive pet food recalls, Congress pa.s.sed the Food and Drug a.s.sociation's Amendments Act (FDAAA), which mandated new standards and improved labeling within two years. Don't hold your breath for anything to happen. In 2008, a year after the FDAAA's pa.s.sage, instead of starting from scratch and writing new, more effective legislation, committee members dredged up the old laws and added huge loopholes. And, as we went to press in 2009, the early warning and notification systems mandated for pet food recalls were nowhere in evidence. To find out about recalls, your best bet is to check the ASPCA's website, www.aspca.org.

44. GIVEN ALL THE MANUFACTURING PROBLEMS, WHY CAN'T I JUST PREPARE FOOD AT HOME FOR MY DOG?

You can. There's a common misconception that dogs should never eat human food. More accurately, your dog shouldn't subsist on table sc.r.a.ps or eat sc.r.a.ps that are unhealthy for them.34 Which is a comparatively recent development. Dogs did fine on sc.r.a.ps when they lived on farms. The first prepared dog food was a response to city life: In 1860, James Spratt created Patent Meat Fibrine Dog Cakes to provide London's shipyard pups with more nutrition than they could get from scavenging hardtack (biscuits). Many of the ma.s.s-prepared dog foods that followed in the United States continued to feature meat, if not prime cuts, until the Depression. With the rise of highly processed dog food after World War II, any real health benefits were sacrificed for convenience and low cost (especially for manufacturers). The fact that so much human food is equally unhealthy explains why table grazing isn't an ideal nutritional plan for your pup.

I came to home cooking for Frankie reluctantly, because I tend to avoid cooking for myself. When I learned about the problems with many commercial dog foods, I simply switched to better brands. Then Frankie was diagnosed with diabetes and my vet prescribed a kibble in which "chicken meal by-products" was the sole ingredient that seemed to have even a remote connection to the natural universe. And none of the good-quality brands fit the recommended high-fiber/no-grain /low-fat bill.

I won't go through the saga of seeking a home-cooked diet tailored to a small, insulin-dependent dog. Suffice it to say, the two holistic practices I consulted were long on supplements and general advice-and, in one case, on t.e.s.t.i.c.l.e-site ma.s.sage (see question 27)-and short on actual portion sizes and ingredient proportions. It took lots of independent research and many weight/age/exercise level calculations to come up with the ideal Frankie formula. Diets that need to be adjusted for other health problems, or those geared toward modifying behavior (which I discuss in Chapter 6), pose challenges that may make home cooking extremely difficult if not impracticable.

Even if your dog is healthy, deciding to prepare meals in your kitchen requires more than throwing some good ingredients together. For an adult, you'll want to create a diet that includes, roughly, 25 to 30 percent protein, 30 to 35 percent fat, and 30 to 35 percent carbohydrates (preferably complex), 35 35 in the appropriate portion size for her weight and exercise level. in the appropriate portion size for her weight and exercise level.

My favorite source for balanced recipes is the amusing and informative Becoming the Chef Your Dog Thinks You Are Becoming the Chef Your Dog Thinks You Are by Micki Voisard, by Micki Voisard,36 a self-described Master Dog Chef ( a self-described Master Dog Chef (www.dogchefs.com). Other recommended books include Dr. Pit-cairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, Home-Prepared Dog and Cat Diets Dr. Pit-cairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, Home-Prepared Dog and Cat Diets by Donald Strombeck, and by Donald Strombeck, and Real Food for Dogs Real Food for Dogs by Arden Moore. by Arden Moore.

Another option, though not an inexpensive one, is a nutritional consultant, who will tailor recipes to your dog. Reputable businesses, including The Possible Canine (www.thepossiblecanine.com) and Veterinary Nutritional Consultations Inc. (www.petdiets.com), will not send the diet directly to you, but will fax it to your vet for approval. Health research geeks-if you keep the Merck Manual on your nightstand, that means you-might start with the National Research Council's Nutrient Requirements of Dogs, Nutrient Requirements of Dogs, available from The National Academies Press ( available from The National Academies Press (books.nap.edu), a dense, comprehensive resource intended for professionals.

45. WHAT ABOUT THE BONES AND RAW FOOD DIET?.

The premise of this "evolutionary" regimen-introduced by Australian veterinarian Ian Billinghurst in Give Your Dog a Bone Give Your Dog a Bone (1993)-is to put your pup in touch with his inner wolf. Eschewing grains and focusing on raw meat, vegetables, eggs, and other foods found in nature (mostly; somehow yogurt found its way in), the diet seeks to replicate the preprocessed menu of canids past. And the program deems chomping on raw bones so atavistically enjoyable as to enhance a dog's immune system. (1993)-is to put your pup in touch with his inner wolf. Eschewing grains and focusing on raw meat, vegetables, eggs, and other foods found in nature (mostly; somehow yogurt found its way in), the diet seeks to replicate the preprocessed menu of canids past. And the program deems chomping on raw bones so atavistically enjoyable as to enhance a dog's immune system.

Even setting aside the issue of the considerable differences between today's domestic dogs and their ancestors, I can't help but be suspicious of an eating plan that has BARF as its acronym. Why risk being mistaken for a dog bulimia manifesto? With a simple word subst.i.tution, the diet's advocates could have had the clever, nonpuke referencing-not to mention vocabulary-enhancing-BARC, for Bones and Raw Comestibles.37 Too late; it's mine now. Too late; it's mine now.

Having gotten that out of my system, as it were, BARF has many appealing aspects, not the least of which is its avoidance of cooking. Many breeders swear by the plan and one vet I spoke with said many of her patients thrive on it. The diet has become so popular that it's spurred the creation of local co-ops that buy meat in bulk from butchers, as well as of lines of packaged, dehydrated food and supplements (which would seem to defeat the whole dancing-with-wolves premise).

Probably the most controversial aspect of the diet in its purest form-aside from the care that needs to be taken to avoid salmonella38-is the question of whether the benefits of chewing bones, even raw ones, outweigh the risk of having them splinter and lodge in the esophagus or digestive tract.

As it happens, Frankie is on a modified BARF diet. He eats mostly lightly cooked vegetables, meat, fish, and eggs, no grain. Bones are not an issue. Pre-diabetes, when I used to give him uncooked marrow bones, he licked out the tasty, high-fat centers, chewed off the bits of meat left on the outside, but only nibbled desultorily on the bones themselves before losing interest. I guess he's more evolved in the bone-gnawing department than he is in the eat-while-you-can arena (see question 36).