A Living from the Land Part 7

AMOUNT OF SEED TO PURCHASE FOR FAMILY OF SIX[2]

-------------------------+------------------------ Vegetable Amount to purchase -------------------------+------------------------ Asparagus 66 plants Beans, snap (in variety) 2 to 3 pounds Beans, bush lima 1 pound Beet 4 ounces Cabbage: Early 1 packet Late 1/2 ounce Carrot 1 ounce Cauliflower 1 packet Celery 1 packet Corn, sweet 2 pounds Cuc.u.mber 1 ounce Eggplant 1 packet Kale 1 ounce Lettuce 1/2 ounce Muskmelon 1 ounce Onion sets 4 quarts Onion seed 1 ounce Peas 2 to 4 pounds Parsley 1 packet Parsnip 1 ounce Radish (in variety) 2 ounces Rhubarb 20 plants Salsify 1 ounce Spinach 1 pound New Zealand spinach 1 ounce Summer pumpkin 1 ounce Winter pumpkin 2 ounces Squash 2 ounces Tomatoes 1 packet or 50 plants Turnip 4 ounces Rutabaga 1 ounce Watermelon 2 ounces -------------------------+------------------------

_Planning and Operating a Home Garden._--In planning the home vegetable garden there are a few essential points to be kept in mind. The time to plan the garden is in winter when adequate consideration can be given to the selection of those vegetables that the family likes best and can use in large amounts. Seeds required should be ordered early for the entire garden. By drawing the plan of the garden on paper and following it, the procedure is simplified and the most efficient results attained.

Vegetables should be planted in rows rather than in beds, and those maturing at about the same time should be grouped together to facilitate succession planting. After the early-maturing crops have been harvested, other crops can be sown on the same area, thus fully utilizing the land throughout the growing season. Perennial crops, including asparagus and rhubarb, should be kept by themselves.

A practical farmer wanting to express perfection in soil preparation is apt to say, "It is just like a garden." This implies good fertility, optimum moisture conditions and proper tilth. To attain these conditions in garden soil it is desirable to cover it with strawy manure some time previous to plowing, in order that rains may carry the soluble fertility elements into the surface inches of the soil. In the early spring a thorough job of plowing or spading should be done to reasonable depth, completely covering the surface straw or dead plants. Every two or three years lime should be applied after plowing and worked into the top soil at the rate of 1 pound of hydrated lime to every 25 square feet of soil.

_Fertilizing and Culture._--The fertility supplied through application of manure should be supplemented by the use of commercial fertilizer. This can be purchased in burlap bags from local supply agencies and should contain about 5 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent phosphoric acid and 7 per cent potash. Moderate variations in a.n.a.lysis from 5-8-7, as above, are not important so long as the amounts of each element are well balanced. The fertilizer should be broadcast over the garden after plowing, at the rate of 1 pound to every 25 square feet and worked into the soil before planting. Poultry or sheep manure may be used as top dressing to alternate with commercial fertilizer. It should be borne in mind that such animal manures are richer in nitrogen than in other elements and if used to excess may stimulate leaf growth at the expense of yield and quality.

Frequent shallow cultivations are desirable. The ordinary wheel hoe will be found helpful in the cultivating procedure. It should be well understood that cultivation is essential to prevent weed growth and conserve moisture.

If watering or irrigating is necessary in dry weather, it should be thoroughly done. One soaking of the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches is far more effective than frequent light sprinklings. The latter may be more harmful than beneficial through reestablishing capillary movement, permitting the escape of subsoil moisture. Water should be applied under the same conditions that apply when rain falls--on cloudy days or after sunset to prevent "baking" or encrusting of the surface soil as well as to conserve the amount of water needed.

_Meeting the Insect Problem._--The sponsor of a garden in which diversified vegetables are grown must be prepared to meet the onslaught of equally diversified insect species. While it is true that insects are multiplying as to species and voraciousness, it is equally true that methods of control are becoming available to cope adequately with most of them. One unfamiliar with our insect infestations will be amazed to find that certain species apparently have had advance notice of his intentions and are sitting about the planted rows awaiting the appearance of the tender shoots.

One of the best methods of combating insects is to create ideal conditions for plant growth. Plants that are underfed through inadequate soil fertility or are weakened by other causes suffer severely from insect attack, while vigorous plants will come through with much less damage. It is advisable to insure rapid germination of seed through careful soil preparation, to seed at the proper time for a quick and vigorous start and to have sufficient available fertility to stimulate growth once the plants have started.

There are two distinct cla.s.ses of insects, the division being based upon their feeding habits. The larger group, both in the size of the insects themselves and in the number of species, is the leaf-chewing group. These can be destroyed by the application of stomach poisons to the plants under attack. The other group consists of the sucking insects, which penetrate the veins carrying nourishment to the leaves and appropriate it for themselves. Such insects multiply with extreme rapidity, generally feed on the underside of the leaves and may cause complete wilting of the plant before their presence is suspected. In such cases a "contact" spray or dust must be used. This is based on the principle of causing the insect to "inhale" the material through breathing pores along its body. The insecticide must be composed of extremely fine particles or must be of such an oily nature that it will readily penetrate such pores. In addition to these, certain repellent materials are being developed which cause the insect to seek food where the disagreeable conditions do not prevail.

TABLE III

PRINc.i.p.aL INSECTS AND REMEDIES[3]

-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Plants attacked Chewing Character Treatment insects of damage -----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Tomato, pepper, Flea Beetles They gnaw or Dust or spray with eggplant, turnip, eat small holes a prepared nicotine cabbage, etc. in the leaves. or pyrethrum mixture.

Bordeaux mixture sprayed, or dusting for disease is also effective as a repellent.

Asparagus Asparagus Feeds on the Dust with either Beetle shoots and a.r.s.enate of lead or brush. calcium a.r.s.enate, mixed with 1 part of wheat flour. Spray with a.r.s.enate of lead or calcium a.r.s.enate, 1 tablespoonful if a paste or 1/2 tablespoonful if a powder, and 1 tablespoonful of lime to 1 gallon of water.

All kinds of Mexican Bean Eats the under Dust with 1 part of beans Beetle side of leaves magnesium a.r.s.enate mixed with 3 parts of lime, or dust the yellow larva under the leaves with a pyrethrum dust.

{ Cabbage Maggot Keep the ground { thoroughly cultivated { around the base of Early cabbage { the plant or use tar and cauliflower { paper discs for { larger plantings.

{ { Common Cabbage Feed on the Same as for asparagus { Worm shoots and beetle. Pyrethrum { and Cabbage brush. dust is also very { Looper effective.

Cuc.u.mber, squash, Striped Eats the leaves Protect with a and melons. Cuc.u.mber and the stem of cheesecloth or do the Beetle the very young same as for the plants. asparagus beetle.

Pumpkins and Squash Vine Kills the vines Take a sharp squashes Borer by eating in thin-bladed penknife the stem. and slit the stem lengthwise, opening it and killing the borer. Then bank the ground around the stem of the plant.

Tomato, eggplant, Potato Beetle Eats the Same as for Cabbage potato leaves. Worm.

Tomato Tomato Horn Eats the Same as for Common Worm leaves. Cabbage Worm.

Tomato fruits Tomato Fruit Eats the tomato Same as for Cabbage Worm fruits. Worm.

Tomato, eggplant, Cutworms Cut the plants Protect with paper pepper, cabbage, off near collars placed and other crops. the surface around the stem of of the ground. the plant, extending 2 or 3 inches above the ground, or distribute poisoned bran mash, placing it near the plant.

Thoroughly mix 2 level tablespoonfuls of paris green in 5 pounds of dry bran, then add from 4 to 6 quarts of water in which 1/2 pint of cheap mola.s.ses has been mixed. Cutworms work at night, therefore apply the mash in the late afternoon or evening.

-----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Plants attacked Sucking Character Treatment insects of damage -----------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------- Tomato, potato, Leaf Hopper Feeds under the Dust or spray with strawberries, leaf, causing a prepared nicotine and beans. a whitening and or pyrethrum mixture.

curve of the Bordeaux mixture is leaves with also effective as a dying of the a repellent.

edges. Practically all Aphis Sucks the Either dust or spray garden vegetable (plant lice) juices on the with a nicotine or plants. under side of pyrethrum mixture as the leaves and recommended on the on the stems. package. Be sure to hit the insects on the under side of the leaves.

Cabbage group, Red Spider Sucks the Apply a dusting strawberries, juices from the sulfur.

and beans. under side of the leaves, producing a whitish cast on the cabbage group and a brownish cast on the other groups. Especially prevalent during prolonged dry hot spells. -----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Table III (pages 107-108) describes the character of damage done by both groups of insects, the plants attacked and the most effective methods of control.

_Do's_

Grow vegetables for health, recreation and economy.

Organize the vegetable garden for a maximum of output, variety of foods and to facilitate its care.

Use lime and chemical fertilizer or manure liberally for intensive culture.

Combat insects by stimulating plant growth and by using appropriate lethal products.

_Don'ts_

Don't plant a garden in hit-or-miss fashion, if maximum food return is expected.

Don't neglect first appearances of insect damage. Find out the cause of injury and use recommended measures for control.

_Chapter_ VIII

HOME FRUITS AND BEES

A wide variety of fruits may be grown satisfactorily for home use. Where no fruit trees are growing the best plan is to set out individual trees or bush fruits of the standard types and varieties, adding to the collection later as the needs of the family develop and the adaptability of the area for varieties manifests itself through crop production.

All fruits thrive best on a deep, well-drained soil. It is difficult to secure good results where the area is depressed and air drainage is poor.

Elevation of the area planted is desirable therefore from the standpoint of both water and air drainage.

A number of questions confront the prospective grower of fruits. He needs to know, among other things, the kind of fruit to plant, the necessary distance between the trees or plants and the probable yield. The following planting guide will be found helpful in answering these questions.

HOME FRUITS AND BEES

PLANTING GUIDE[4]

-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------------------- Average number Estimated yield of Distance Distance at maturity plants Kind of fruit between between +------------+------------ to rows, plants, Average Average the feet feet per acre per plant acre -------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------ 27 Apples 40 40 135 bushels 5 bushels 90 Pears 22 22 90 bushels 1 bushel 200 Quinces 16 16 100 bushels 1/2 bushel 90 Peaches 22 22 90 bushels 1 bushel 90 Nectarines 22 22 90 bushels 1 bushel 90 Plums 22 22 90 bushels 1 bushel 90 Cherries (sour) 22 22 90 bushels 1 bushel 48 Cherries (sweet) 30 30 50 bushels 1 bushel 6,000 Strawberries 3-1/2 2 2,250 quarts 3/4 pint (matted row) per stool 1,800 Raspberries 8 3 2,000 quarts 1 quart 1,800 Blackberries 8 3 2,400 quarts 1-1/4 quarts 1,200 Dewberries 6 6 1,800 quarts 1 quart (hill system) 1,800 Gooseberries 8 3 5,400 quarts 3 quarts 1,800 Currants 8 3 3,600 quarts 2 quarts 680 Grapes 8 8 4,000 pounds 6 pounds -------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------

The selection of varieties of tree fruits is highly important. Some sorts are preeminently adapted to home use because of their high quality of edibility while others are preferred for commercial production on account of their good shipping qualities and high yields per acre. It is advisable for the grower to inquire of his state agricultural college regarding varieties to plant. Responsible nursery firms will also advise on varieties that will best meet the needs of the purchaser from the standpoint of family use and adaptability to soil and climatic conditions.

The following varieties are recommended for general home use in north-central areas of the United States, subject to check by local authorities. The apple and peach varieties are given in the order of ripening.

Apples: William Wealthy McIntosh Rome Stayman Peaches (all freestone): Golden Jubilee Georgia Belle Elberta J. H. Hale Pears: Bartlett Seckel Cherries: Montmorency or Early Richmond (sour) Black Tartarian (sweet) Plums: Damson (blue) Burbank (red)

About fifty strawberry plants will be needed for a row 100 feet long.

Because of weed infestations in old beds, it will be more satisfactory to set a new row each year and destroy the old one. The plants during the season of setting should be trained to form a matted row about 2 feet wide. Mulching the plants after a freeze in the fall with straw or other similar material will prevent injury caused by "heaving" of the soil.

Currants and gooseberries should be pruned annually and only the one- or two-year-old wood retained for production. Thinning out in this manner will give better size and quality. Where the currant worm is troublesome the foliage should be dusted with a.r.s.enate of lead or Paris green as soon as it is well developed and before the fruit is started. About thirty currant or gooseberry plants will be needed for a 100-foot row, and they can be planted along a fence or other boundary line.