A Description of Modern Birmingham Part 15

_The County Hall._

This is an elegant pile of building, with a stone front, ornamented with pillars of the Corinthian order, to which, the ascent is by a flight of steps, through folding doors, into a n.o.ble room of just proportions, being ninety-four feet in length and thirty-six in breadth. At each end are semicircular recesses, surmounted by cupolas, and fitted up with convenient galleries, where the two courts of justice are held; the criminal court being on the right, and that for civil causes on the left; between which there is accommodation for the servants and attendants upon the court. Above there is an apartment where the pet.i.t juries occasionally retire, and adjoining it is the room where the grand jury a.s.semble. The quarter sessions for the county are also held in this hall, and in it all county meetings are convened. During the races there is a temporary boarded floor laid down, and the hall is converted into a ball-room, the two recesses being fitted up for card parties: the pillars with which it is ornamented are encircled with wreaths of lamps, and what was before the solemn court of justice, is now converted into a brilliant and sportive scene, where gaiety and fashion take place of their predecessors.

_The Court House._

This s.p.a.cious and elegant pile of building is appropriated to the use of the body corporate, there being two rooms on the ground floor; that on the right is where the mayor and aldermen hold their a.s.semblies, and the other is fitted up as a court, where the sessions are held for the borough. On the second floor, there is a commodious, well-proportioned apartment, sixty feet by twenty-seven, which is fitted up in an elegant manner with superb cut-gla.s.s chandeliers of large dimensions, at one end of which is an orchestra and also a card room adjoining. In this room annual entertainments are given by the mayor, and public meetings for the borough are convened. In it public lectures upon any particular subject are occasionally delivered, and it is also sometimes used as a ballroom.

_The Market House._

This substantial building does credit to the town; it being very convenient for those who bring the produce of their farms to market.

The upper apartments are made use of as store-rooms for the arms and accoutrements of the military within the county. From its summit there is a fine view of the town, and also a prospect of the surrounding country.

_The Stone Bridge_.

This elegant structure, which is erected across the river Avon, consists of one arch, measuring 105 feet in the span, at the expense of four thousand pounds: one thousand was contributed by the corporation, and the remainder was defrayed by the Earl of Warwick.

_The Iron Bridge_.

The rock whereon this town is erected being cut away, to make a road into it twenty-four feet wide, Charles Mills, Esq. one of the members for the borough, caused an iron bridge to be erected at his expense, across this road, and thereby formed a junction between the marketplace and the Saltsford.

_The Theatre_.

The town not being very extensive, this building was erected to correspond with the population: it is no ways remarkable in its external appearance, but it is fitted up in a neat and convenient manner within, and is always opened during the races.

_College School_.

This ancient pile of building is of considerable size, and in it the native children of the parish, who think proper to take advantage of the inst.i.tution, are educated free of expense; but as the course of instruction is prescribed to the learned languages only, its utility as a free school for general education is very contracted. The salary of the master, who must be a clergyman of the established religion, is seventy-five pounds, and he having but little employment, has an a.s.sistant, who receives annually thirty pounds, exclusive of other emoluments. To this school two estates were left in trust, to provide two exhibitions of seventy pounds each, for two young men, natives of the town, towards defraying the expense of their education, at Oxford, for the s.p.a.ce of seven years.

There is also a public library, wherein is a considerable collection of well-chosen books, chiefly of modern literature; but the building that contains it is not deserving of notice.

The charitable donations and benefactions that have been left to this town are very numerous, and amount to a large sum of money.

Here are six different alms-houses, one school wherein thirty-nine boys are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, and thirty-six girls are instructed in reading, writing, sewing, and knitting. There is also a school of industry, and four sunday schools. A lying-in charity is also established here, for the relief of poor married women, residing within the borough, who each of them are accommodated with a set of child-bed linen for one month, one pound of candles, one pound of soap, and during the winter months, with two hundred weight of coals. They are also provided with a sufficient quant.i.ty of caudle, together with proper attendants, and all necessary medical advice. In addition to the before-mentioned there are two poor-houses.

There is also a very ancient building, denominated Leicester's hospital, for the reception of twelve indigent men, who are termed brethren, together with a master, who must be a clergyman of the established church, and in preference to all others, if he offers himself, the vicar of St. Mary's. It is endowed with land, which at the time was valued at 200 per annum, but now amounts to near 2000, exclusive of the vicarage of Hampton-in-Arden, which is in the gift of the brethren, who usually bestow it upon the master. It had long been ascertained that the clear annual rental of the estate far exceeded all that could be required for the support of the number of brethren in the hospital, and that the salary of the master was fixed at fifty pounds per annum.

In the year 1813, this important business was brought before parliament, when it appeared, that each of the brethren received, clear of all deductions, about 130 per year each, which sum the act leaves them in the possession of; but it provides, as vacancies occur, either by death or otherwise, on the admission of every new member, his annual income shall not exceed 80, and that the surplus 50 shall one half of it go to the increase of the master's salary, until it amounts to 400 per annum, and the remainder is to form a fund for the support of ten additional members. The qualification for admission being now fixed at 50 per annum: no candidate is to be possessed of an income exceeding that. Adjoining to the hospital is a chapel, which is neatly fitted up for the use of the brethren, the master, and his family, who daily a.s.semble there for morning and evening prayer, except on those days when service is performed at St. Mary's, where their attendance is then required.

_St. Mary's Church_.

This stately building taken altogether makes a very respectable appearance, particularly the tower, wherein are eight bells and a set of chimes; what is very remarkable, the princ.i.p.al entrance into the church is under the tower; therefore it admits of a grand view down the middle aisle, which being terminated by the east window, is seen to great advantage. There is in this church an excellent organ, and numerous monuments, but none of them any ways remarkable. From the south transept of this church, you descend by a flight of steps to St.

Mary's chapel, and enter therein by folding doors, which, when opened, the eye is astonished upon viewing the interior of this beautiful and magnificent structure, which is considered to be as fine a specimen of gothic architecture as any in the kingdom, it being in the pointed style of the middle order. This chapel, having been twenty-one years in building, was finished in the year 1464, and including the monument erected to commemorate the Earl of Warwick, cost 2481, an amazing sum at that period. In the chapel there are five sumptuous monuments.

_St. Nicholas's Church_.

This incongruous pile of building is of modern date, being opened for divine service on the 17th September, 1780.

_County Gaol._

This extensive, substantial, and commodious pile of building is of solid stone, and in all respects so complete, that every purpose it was intended to answer is fully accomplished. The area of this prison contains near an acre of ground, which is surrounded by a wall twenty-three feet high, and of proportionate strength.

_County Bridewell._

This building is of stone, and contains numerous apartments, in every one of which there is a glazed window and an iron door, the sleeping rooms being furnished with iron bedsteads and chaff beds, with two rugs to each. A donation is made to every prisoner, on being released, according to the distance he is from home and behaviour during confinement. One or two shirts or shifts, a pair of shoes, or a jacket, are presented to those who have been in prison six months.

_The Castle._

The necessary limits to which this work is confined, will not admit of describing that magnificent and sumptuous pile of building; therefore those who are desirous of seeing a description of it, are referred to the local historian.

_The Priory._

This ancient edifice is in the immediate vicinity of Warwick: it was originally a complete square, three sides of which still remain, the fourth having been removed.--The western side appears to have been part of the ancient chapel, there still remaining part of the baptismal font, which is of stone, richly ornamented, and is highly deserving the attention of an antiquarian.

It is situated on a pleasing eminence, embosomed in the ancient and majestic groves, surrounded by delightful gardens and an extensive park, and presents such a beautiful sylvan scene as is rarely to be met with. The undulated surface of the ground, intermingled with numerous sheets of water, are richly adorned with trees of various kinds, of vigorous growth and the most beautiful forms, among which the elm and the chesnut are particularly conspicuous. Through this park there are several footpaths open to the public, and are the most rural and delightful walks imaginable.

_Guy's Clift_.

Leland, the antiquarian, who wrote in the time of Henry 8th, speaking of this delightful and romantic place, says, "It is the abode of pleasure, and a place delightful to the muses: there are natural cavities in the rocks, small but shady groves, clear and chrystal streams, flowery meadows, mossy caves, a gentle murmuring river running among the rocks, and to crown all, solitude and quiet, friendly in so high a degree to the muses."

The approach to this romantic place is from the Coventry road, by the side of shady plantations, until you arrive at a lofty stone arch, through which you enter the court yard, the whole of which is hewn out of the solid rock, and underneath there are subterraneous pa.s.sages and cellars, wherein the atmospheric air produces so little effect, that during the heats of summer or the colds in winter the thermometer only varies one degree. In this court there are numerous stables excavated out of the solid rock, as are some of the lower apartments of the house, which is an elegant modern mansion, and near to it is the ancient chapel, with its embattled towers and gothic windows, as it was originally built in the reign of Henry 6th, and is still in good repair. Those who admire the productions of early genius will here be highly gratified, there being great numbers of original paintings, and some copies, executed by the only son of the worthy proprietor of Guy's clift, whose premature death at the age of twenty-two, caused inexpressible grief to all who were honoured with his acquaintance.

Exclusive of these, there are others by artists of the greatest celebrity.

The ancient pleasure grounds exhibit a great variety of pleasing objects, and also numerous curiosities; among others, a mill that was in being before the Norman conquest, it being mentioned in doomsday book. There is also Guy's well, where this renowned champion was accustomed to slake his thirst, which is described by Leland as follows, it still remaining in the same state as it was then--"The silver wells in the meadows were enclosed with pure white sleek stones, like marble, and a pretty house, erected like a cage, one end only open, to keep comers from the rain." The apartments under the chapel, where the chantry priests were used to reside, still remain entire, without having undergone any alteration. Near to this spot is Guy's cave,

"Where with his hands he hew'd a house, Out of a craggy rock of stone, And lived, like a palmer, poor, Within that house alone."

This bears the appearance of being a natural eave, for the upper part does not exhibit any marks where the tool has been made use of, but the lower part does; and here, tradition says, this mighty warrior was interred, and also his wife, fair Phillis. Over this cave is fair Phillis's walk, who, it is related, was accustomed to resort here, whilst her husband, though not known to her as such, was performing his devotions in the cave below. From these delightful and romantic walks there are numerous opportunities for an expert draughtsman to exercise his abilities.

_Leamington Priors._

The distance between Warwick and Leamington is only two miles, and there are two distinct roads, both of them excellent; and whether a person rides or walks, if the mind is susceptible of pleasing ideas, neither time nor fatigue will be thought of. The roads about Leamington are in excellent order, and present numerous delightful and picturesque views, which are fully described by Mr. Field, and also by Mr. Moncrief in his Guide to Leamington, wherein he has introduced some appropriate, entertaining, and amusing poetry. Whoever resorts to these saline springs in search of amus.e.m.e.nt, if he has money and time at command, cannot fail, during the season, between May and November, of being highly gratified, except the mind is entirely depraved. To every visitant, the guide of Mr. Moncrief will not only be useful but entertaining. The poetical epistles of Miss Fidget are not only descriptive but very humorous, and the poetry of Mr. Pensile is very appropriate.

Before Leamington rose into esteem, there was a facetious man resided there, named Benjamin Satchwell, by trade a shoemaker, who, when any differences arose among the villagers, he was in general the mediator; they not being at that time cursed with either a wrangling lawyer or an hypocritical methodist. He was also the village poet, and frequently exercised his talents in praise of the waters, and likewise of any respectable person who came with intent to derive benefit from them. He is said to have kept annals in verse of its rise and progress, and also cases of cures performed by the virtues of the saline spring, and that he let them out to the visitors for their amus.e.m.e.nt, on certain terms. Admitting this to be true, is it not very singular that Mr. Bisset, nor his predecessor, Mr. Pratt, should neither of them introduce these jeu des esprits, for the entertainment of their readers, or why did not Mr. Moncrief collect them together; they certainly would have increased the sale of his work? As they are overlooked by the local historians, it is not likely that a casual visitor should stumble upon them.

This village having for a series of years been celebrated for a spring of saline water, it has for some time become fashionable to resort there. The first baths were erected in the year 1786, now called the Centre well, by Mr. Thomas Abbotts, a native of the place; the beneficial effects of the water having been noticed and recommended by Dr. Kerr, of Northampton, and Dr. Allen. At this time there were two baths, one of them hot and the other cold, which for several years afforded sufficient accommodation for all invalids who resorted there, and were in general lodged at the adjacent cottages, there being no more than two small inns, the Bowling Green and the sign of the Dog.

Dr. Edward Johnstone, of Birmingham, having recommended the use of these waters to several of his patients, the number of visitants increased annually, so that in 1790, Matthew Wise, Esq. caused another well to be opened, now called the Road well, where he erected a range of baths, more s.p.a.cious than the others, to which was annexed considerably more conveniences, with some pretensions to elegance; but as yet no additional apartments were provided for the accommodation of strangers, except a few more of the cottagers fitting up additional rooms, it being no more than a rural and retired village.

In the year 1794, Dr. Lambe, a physician of eminence, who resided at Warwick, published in the fifth volume of the Memoirs of the Manchester Philosophical Society, an accurate a.n.a.lysis of the Leamington water, by which it appears to possess the same genial influence on the human frame as the water of Cheltenham, which was then rising into celebrity. There was one very material difference between the waters of Leamington and those of Cheltenham, there being at the former place an abundant supply of the mineral water, not only for drinking but for hot and cold bathing; whilst, on the contrary, the saline spring at Cheltenham scarcely produced a sufficient quant.i.ty for drinking. The influx of visitors to Leamington now increased with such rapidity, that every cottager exerted himself to fit up lodgings, and every house to which lodgers resorted improved their appearance; in short, new wells were opened, new houses erected, and not only new streets formed in the old town, as it was now called, but a plan was drawn for the erection of a new town, which has within a few years increased in a most astonishing manner.

The Dukes of Bedford and Gordon, attended by their d.u.c.h.esses, having visited and remained at Leamington for some time, it induced the Earl of Aylesford, who is lord of the manor, and of course, proprietor of the spring, to visit Leamington, where, having made the necessary enquiries, he gave orders that the spring should be properly inclosed, at his expense, securing to the poor the benefit of the waters, and had he lived, it was his intention to have erected baths for their accommodation. The visitants increasing in number, Mr. Wise has augmented the number of his baths, there being one cold bath, four hot for the use of gentlemen, seven for ladies, and one for children, all fitted up with Dutch tiles, or Derbyshire marble, and furnished for the convenience of invalids, with hand rails: to each of the baths is attached a dressing room, with a fire-place in it. Adjoining these baths there is a small but elegant pump-room; the water being raised by a horse engine.

In 1810, a fourth well was opened, which is called the Bridge well, and is situated near the bridge, close to the river: it belongs to Mr.

Robbins, who has erected one large cold bath, three hot baths, and one for children.--These, with the exception of the last, are accompanied by convenient dressing-rooms; the water being raised by a horse engine.

The South well, the property of the Rev. Mr. Read, was opened in the same year, (1810), where there are one cold bath, formed with Dutch tiles, three hot baths, one of them being marble, and one for children: these baths are very neat, but they have not the convenience of dressing-rooms.

During the same year, (1810), a sixth well was opened on the north side of the river, where a magnificent suite of baths and a s.p.a.cious pump-room are erected, at the expense of twenty-five thousand pounds; there are twenty in number, hot, cold, tepid, vapour, and shower; one of them being a chair bath, which is an admirable contrivance to immerge the invalid, on the chair where he was undressed, into the bath, in a secure and easy manner.--These baths are s.p.a.cious, and admirably constructed with Dutch tiles, and most of them have the accommodation of dressing-rooms. The water is raised by a steam engine of two horse power; and to the great credit of the proprietors, they have devoted one hot and two cold baths to the use of the poor. This extensive building exhibits a n.o.ble front, the central part being one hundred and six feet in length and thirty in height, to which there are two wings, each of them extending thirty-feet and in height twenty. A s.p.a.cious colonade, formed by double pillars of the Doric order, encompa.s.s it on three sides, all of native stone, makes this building rank among the first and most magnificent structures in the kingdom. It was designed and executed by Mr. C.S. Smith, architect of London. The baths for the use of the ladies are nearest to the river, and those at the other end are for gentlemen, the entrance to them being from the two wings. The entrance to the pump-room, which is extensive, lofty, and of exact proportions, is through folding doors at each extremity of the central building.--The ornaments of the ceiling, the cornices, and in fact, the whole interior embellishments, are chaste and simply elegant. On one side the light is introduced through seven windows, and on the opposite side by one window of large dimensions, composed of stained gla.s.s. Underneath this window there are two elegant chimney pieces, formed of Kilkenny marble. At the western extremity of the room, on an ornamental pedestal of Derbyshire marble, there is the pump, if it may be so called, it having a bason in the centre, which is enclosed by a neat mahogany ball.u.s.trade. The visitors receive the water in gla.s.ses from beautiful damsels, and to whom it is usual to give a gratuity. The terms for drinking the water at these baths is 3s. 6d. per week, exclusive of the gratuity. At the other wells it is 2s. 6d. per week, and the gratuity. The terms for bathing appear to be in general, 3s. for a warm bath, 2s. for that of a child, and 1s. 6d. for a cold bath, with a gratuity to the attendant.