A Description of Modern Birmingham Part 14

Glazebrook and Whitehouse.

Salisbury, Hawkes, and Co.

---- Banks.

Wainwright, Jones, and Co.

At the priory, there is a powerful steam engine, belonging to Mr.

Benson; and on the road to Birmingham is a brewery, belonging to a public company. In the environs are numerous mines of coal, ironstone, and lime; which land, where the mines have not been worked, sells in general for about one thousand pounds per acre.--Nails and heavy iron-work employ a great part of the population.

The ancient castle, of which there still remains the keep and the gateway, is said to have been erected about the year 700, by a person named Dodo, from whom the name of the town is derived. Underneath the hill, whereon the castle was situated, there are stupendous caverns, from whence the lime stone has been conveyed away, which are truly august, being of considerable extent, and proportionably high; the roof being supported by rude pillars of vast dimensions, which have been left by the miners for that purpose. There is one tunnel that perforates the hill entirely, being in length near two miles: it is in height thirteen feet, in width nine feet, and in one part sixty-four feet below the surface.

These enormous subterranean works, with the method of procuring the stone, are highly deserving the attention of strangers, who have there an opportunity of seeing this useful article forced from its natural situation by means of gunpowder; raised from the bowels of the earth, and conveyed through the country by means of inland navigation, to serve the purpose of the agriculturist, and also the architect. In these rocks there are numerous marine productions, and among others, one which the miners denominate a locust, for which they have been known to refuse its weight in gold; it being understood that there is only one other place in the kingdom where they are to be found.

The mines of coal in this vicinity are from ten to twelve yards in thickness, which circ.u.mstance it is said does not take place in any other part of the kingdom. A stranger approaching Dudley after it is dark, will be astonished to see the numerous fires in different directions, which proceed from the furnaces, forges, and collieries; the latter converting their small coal into c.o.ke.

The n.o.ble proprietor of these extensive mines and the ruins above them has for several successive years planted innumerable trees of different kinds around the castle hill, and during last summer (1818) he caused avenues to be cut through them, which form the most romantic, picturesque, and diversified shady walks, extending over numerous hills and dales, that can be imagined; the views that occasionally present themselves when least expected, are enchanting, and when you arrive at the summit, there is a most extensive prospect over the counties of Worcester, Stafford, Derby, Leicester, Warwick, Salop, Hereford, and part of Wales: it is not only extensive, but full of variety, comprising hills and dales, woods and villages, populous towns, and busy seats of manufacture; a scene that may be justly termed, of various view, warm and alive with human habitations.--From this eminence eighteen churches are discernable; viz, those of Dudley, Birmingham, West-bromwich, Walsall, Rushall, Wednesbury, Darlaston, Tipton, Bilston, Wednesfield, Wolverhampton, Sedgley, Briery-hill, Oldswinford, and Pedmore; also the fine obelisk and castle at Hagley; the elegant seat of Lord Westcote; Envil, the admired seat of Lord Stamford; and part of the woods at Himley, the s.p.a.cious and beautiful seat of the humane, generous, and n.o.ble proprietor of these ruins. The stupendous mountains of Malvern (though near forty miles distant), bounding the horizon towards the south, are grand and n.o.ble features in the scene; as are also those of Clent, Abberley, the Cleys, and the Wrekin;

"Mountains, on whose barren breast The lab'ring clouds do often rest."

_To Dudley, in Worcestershire, through Oldbury, distant_ _nine miles._

Having pa.s.sed the Sand-pits and Spring-hill, you cross the Birmingham ca.n.a.l and enter upon what was Birmingham heath, which being inclosed in the year 1800, was found to contain 289 acres, which land now lets from thirty to fifty shillings per acre.

On the right hand is a boat-builder's yard, and on the left a gla.s.s-house, belonging to Messrs. Biddle and Lloyd. Proceeding towards the windmill, you perceive at a short distance on the right hand another gla.s.s-house, belonging to Messrs. Shakespear and Fletcher.

Ascending the hill, there is on the right an extensive view over the adjacent country, including Barr-beacon, Mr. Boulton's plantations, and Winson-green, a neat house, in the possession of Mrs. Steward. On the left is Summerfield-house, late the residence of John Iddins, Esq.

but now of James Woolley, Esq. and beyond it, a neat white house, occupied by Mr. Hammond. Over an apparently wooded country, you have a windmill in full view, and when at the foot of the hill, on the right is Smethwick grove, the residence of John Lewis Moilliet, Esq.

You now enter Smethwick, which is in Staffordshire, and ascending the hill, a neat brick house makes its appearance on the right hand, where John Reynolds, Esq. resides, who, by succeeding to what was considered by Mr. Lane, his predecessor, to be a worn out trade, acc.u.mulated a considerable fortune, and has retired from business to enjoy it near twenty years. At the summit of the hill on the left is Shireland hall, which is now converted into a seminary for young ladies, under the superintendance of Miss Marmont.

There are in Smethwick some works of considerable magnitude, viz.

Messrs. Boulton and Watt's manufactory for steam engines; an extensive soap work, belonging to Messrs. Adkins and Nock; a manufactory of bra.s.s, under the denomination of the Smethwick bra.s.s company; and also one of British crown gla.s.s, belonging to Thomas Shutt and Co. There is a house called the Beakes, where Wm. Wynne Smith, Esq. resides.

The place of worship is a chapel of ease to the parish of Harborne, and is a neat modern brick tower building, of a single pace, lofty and coved, about sixty feet by twenty-four, and well paved, with a gallery at the west end. The present inc.u.mbent is the Rev. Edward Dales, who resides in the neat parsonage-house on the south side of the chapel yard.

Leaving Smethwick, you proceed towards Oldbury, upon which road the trustees are making great improvements, by widening the road and turning the course of a brook, over which they are building a bridge, which when finished will be a great accommodation. This village is situated in the county of Salop, and is a chapel of ease to Halesowen. A new court-house was erected here in the year 1816, where the court of requests is held once a fortnight. The protestant dissenters have here a neat place of worship, as have also the methodists. Close to the village are several coal mines, and a blast furnace, belonging to Mr. Parker.[7]

[Footnote 7: From this place you have an excellent view of Rowley hills, the ruins of Dudley castle, and the fine woods in Sandwell park.]

About a mile distant, on the left of the road is the Brades, where Messrs. William Hunt and Sons have established a considerable manufacture of iron and steel, which they form into scythes, hay knives, trowels, and every kind of hoe now in use. This road from Birmingham to Dudley is at least one mile nearer than going through West-bromwich, and in my opinion will be sufficiently commodious for the traffic there is between the two towns. The distance is only nine miles, and in travelling that short s.p.a.ce of ground you are in four different counties; Birmingham being in Warwickshire; Smethwick, in Staffordshire; Oldbury, in Shropshire; and Dudley in the county of Worcester.

N. B. Since writing the above, the bridge is completed, and the whole line of road improved to a considerable degree.

_To Hockley-house, ten miles, on the road to Stratford-upon-Avon and also to Warwick._

You proceed through Deritend, up Camp-hill, and when near the summit, there is on the right hand an ancient brick building, called the Ravenhurst, the residence of Mr. John Lowe, attorney, who is equally respectable in his profession, as the house is in appearance. A short distance beyond on the left is Fair-hill, where Samuel Lloyd, Esq.

resides, and on the opposite side of the road is the Larches, the abode of Wm. Withering, Esq.--This house, when it belonged to Mr.

Darbyshire, was known by the name of Foul Lake, but when Dr. Priestley resided there, he gave it the name of Fair-hill; afterwards, being purchased by Dr. Withering, he altered the name of it to the Larches.

Having pa.s.sed through the turnpike, on the left is Sparkbrook-house, John Rotton, Esq. resident. At the distance of one mile and a half the road to Warwick branches off to the left, and on the summit of the hill is Spark-hill-house, inhabited by Miss Morris. Opposite the three mile stone is a very neat pile of building, called Green-bank-house, where Benjamin Cooke, Esq. has taken up his abode. A little beyond, at a place called the Coal-bank, there is a free school, which is endowed with about forty pounds per annum.

At a short distance on the left is Marston chapel, which is usually called Hall-green chapel: it was erected and endowed by Job Marston, Esq. of Hall-green hall, with about ninety acres of land, and other donations.

At the distance of five miles, you pa.s.s through a village called Shirley Street; and at the distance of another fire miles, you arrive at Hockley-house; a place of entertainment, where travellers of every denomination are accommodated in a genteel manner, and on reasonable terms. About one mile from hence, on the road to Stratford, is Umberslade, or Omberslade, where the Archer family were used to reside, but it is now untenanted.

_From Hockley-house to Warwick, ten miles._

At the distance of one quarter of a mile, there is on the right a view of Lapworth church, and on the left is Pack wood-house, which is at present unoccupied. At Rowington, the Warwick ca.n.a.l is carried at an immense expense over a deep valley, and also through a tunnel of considerable length; on the left is the village church, to which you ascend by steps cut in the solid rock, and near to it is the handsome residence of Samuel Aston, Esq. from hence you proceed through Hatton to Warwick.

_To Warwick, twenty miles_--_Leamington, twenty-two miles._

You proceed through Deritend and Bordesley, continuing upon the Stratford road for one mile and a half, when you turn to the left; and at the distance of two miles there is a view over a well-wooded country, with the spire of Yardley church on the left. At Ac.o.c.k's-green there is a prospect nearly similar; and in a field, opposite the five mile stone, there is an extensive picturesque landscape, with a sheet of water in front, which covers about thirty acres;[8] in the midst of which is a small island, with some trees upon it, that adds considerably to the scene.

[Footnote 8: This sheet of water is the reservoir of the Warwick ca.n.a.l.]

_Solihull, distant seven miles._

This beautiful, neat, and clean village had at one time a market, but that has been discontinued for a long time. There are still three fairs annually; one on the 29th of April, another on the 11th of September, and the third on the 12th of October. There are here several genteel and commodious houses; the vicinity being very respectable. The, church is an ancient gothic pile of building, with an elegant spire. The Rev. Charles Curtis is rector.

Leaving the village, on the right you pa.s.s by Malvern-hall, the residence of H.G. Lewis, Esq. and afterwards arrive at Balsall Temple, which in former days belonged to the knights templars, and at their dissolution the knights hospitallers became possessed of it, in whom it remained till the general dissolution of the abbies. It was afterwards converted into an hospital, for the reception of indigent women, either unmarried or widows, to be selected from Balsall and Long Itchington, in Warwickshire, Trentham, in Staffordshire, or Lillenhall, in Shropshire. This inst.i.tution is now in great prosperity, the annual income amounting to near 1500; the number of its alms-women is at present thirty. The buildings are extensive and substantial, forming a complete square, and healthfully situated on the verge of a s.p.a.cious and fertile green. The trustees are the bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, together with the Earls of Warwick and Aylesford, a.s.sisted by other respectable gentlemen in the county, who have placed the whole inst.i.tution under the immediate charge of a master, with a salary of 150. per annum, who is at this time the Rev.

J. Short.

To those who admire antiquity, Balsall church will be a pleasing object, as it now remains nearly in the same state as it was when first erected, about seven hundred years back. Its dimensions are one hundred and two feet long, thirty-eight broad, and fifty-seven high.

At the east and west ends are lofty windows, extending from the roof nearly to the ground, and on each side are three n.o.ble windows. The heads of all the windows are ornamented with beautiful tracery, and no two of them resemble each other. There are no divisions withinside, and what distinguishes the chancel from the body of the church is an ascent of three steps. The walls are very substantial, and so cl.u.s.tered with ivy, that it forces its way through any small fissures into the interior. Over the west door there is a low turret, and below the cornice is a row of ten heads, in a good state of preservation, which are considered to be of excellent workmanship.

Near the church is the ancient hall of the templars, formerly a splendid apartment, but now it is converted into a barn, which is represented to have been one hundred and forty feet in length.

A little farther is Springfield, the elegant and delightful mansion of Joseph Boultbee, Esq. and at a short distance is Knowle, which is a small old town, on elevated ground, in the midst of fertile fields.

This church is of considerable size, and exhibits marks of antiquity in its remains of stained gla.s.s and grotesque carved work.

Not far from hence is Baddesley-Clinton-hall, the seat of Edward Ferrers, Esq. and about one mile beyond is a small inn, known by the name of Tom o'Bedlam, near to which is a venerable oak tree, supposed to be two hundred years old, measuring in girth twenty yards, from which one branch extends across a road thirty feet wide. You next come to Wroxhall abbey, the residence of Christopher Wren, Esq. a descendant from the noted Sir Christopher Wren, who erected St. Paul's cathedral, in London. The church of Wroxhall is an ancient structure, forming one side of a square, the buildings of the abbey forming the other three sides. The windows, which are ornamented with stained gla.s.s, are remarkably fine: the two figures of Moses and Aaron are admired, not only for the drapery, but also for the splendid colours.

About one mile before you arrive at Hatton, there is to the left a pleasant view over a well-wooded country, in the midst of which the ivied towers and magnificent battlements of Kenilworth castle present themselves to view. Hatton is a small village over which the celebrated and learned Dr. Parr presides. At Hatton-hill, near the two mile stone, there is an extensive and diversified prospect over the fertile tract that surrounds Warwick; in every part highly cultivated, and adorned with woods, encircled by gently-rising hills; and in the back ground are seen Shuckburgh-hill on one side and Edge-hill on the other.

_Warwick_. This ancient town is seated on a rock, to which you ascend in every direction, there being four avenues; one from Birmingham, another from Stratford, a third from Coventry, and a fourth from Banbury. The eminence on which the town is erected is itself encircled by hills at the distance of from two to three miles, which bound the prospect in every direction, except to the N.E. where you may see into Northamptonshire, and to the S.W. where the eye ranges over an extensive country, backed by the hills in Glocestershire and Worcestershire. The surrounding country is very fruitful, being cultivated with great care, and the enclosures separated by beautiful hedges, which are richly adorned with trees in a flourishing condition, and also by the river Avon, which meanders here in a considerable stream, and near Warwick is augmented by the junction of the Leam. The town being seated on a dry eminence, is exposed to the genial influence of the sun, which rarifies the air, and renders the atmosphere so salubrious and warm, that in its vicinity the seasons are frequently earlier by a fortnight than they are at the distance of twenty or thirty miles. The four princ.i.p.al streets cross each other at right angles, and lead to the cardinal points.

Great improvements have of late been made in them, by the introduction of culverts, repaving the carriage roads, and laying the footpaths with flags. Lamps are lighted during the winter months, at the expense of the corporation, who have in a commendable manner widened the narrow parts of some streets, and removed numerous obstructions; which gives an air of liveliness to this once sleepy town, and the inhabitants, being rowsed from their lethargy, are now become active and industrious.--The ca.n.a.l from Birmingham comes to this town, from whence it is continued to Napton, where it unites with the Oxford, and by means of it, with the grand junction ca.n.a.l.

The town is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twelve princ.i.p.al burgesses, with a town clerk and a recorder, who are empowered to make laws for the regulation of the borough, and upon all offenders to impose reasonable fines and penalties. Here are two manufactories of cotton, one of lace, and one of worsted, all of them upon an extensive scale, which contribute considerably to the cheerful activity and increasing population. There are here held twelve fairs annually; the market, which is well supplied, is on a Sat.u.r.day; the quarter sessions for the county, and also the a.s.sizes.--The horse races take place in September, and a second meeting of the same kind is held in November.

This borough sends two members to parliament, who are elected by those who pay scot and lot; the number of electors being about five hundred.

Here are two churches; one dedicated to St. Mary and the other to St. Nicholas: there, are also places of worship for presbyterians, quakers, independants, baptists, and Wesleyans.

In the vicinity, the following places are deserving of attention:--Guy's cliff, the ruins of Kenilworth castle, Stoneleigh abbey, Charlcott-house, and Combe abbey. Pa.s.sing over the new bridge, on the road to Leamington, there is a grand picturesque view of Warwick; there being in the foreground the rich meadows, with the Avon meandering through them, the church of St. Nicholas, and the trees behind, which form a dark shade. Near to it is the castellated entrance into the castle, and the elegant tower of St. Peter's chapel.

On the right is the priory, with its beautiful woods. The town is perceptible in the centre, with the tower of St. Mary's, which rises above the variegated and extensive groves of the castle. On the left is the princ.i.p.al object, the castle, which raises its lofty embattled towers over the shady groves with which it is surrounded. The elegant bridge, whose span is 105 feet, is a prominent feature in the landscape.

On the road leading to Tachbrook, about one mile from the town, the eye is gratified with a rich and luxuriant landscape, wherein appears the church of St. Nicholas, the priory, the hospital of St. John, the tower of St. Mary's church, and, to crown the whole, the castle.

The walks and rides in the vicinity of this town present innumerable objects deserving of attention, and whoever takes delight in rural scenery, may here be amply gratified.

In addition to these works, there is a considerable manufactory of hats, and an iron-foundry; to which may be added a corn mill, wherein are five pair of stones, and three of them constantly in motion, by which means they are enabled to grind and dress three hundred bushels of flour every day.