Wolf and Coyote Trapping Part 6

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 4 1/2 Newhouse Wolf Trap.]

Although the No. 4 1/2 is the trap recommended for timber wolves, the No. 4 Newhouse is probably preferred by the average trapper, because of its lighter weight and its adaptability to catching coyotes, which are found in greater abundance than wolves. The trap has a spread of jaws of 6 1/2 inches, and its strength is sufficient for holding almost any wolf, providing the captured animal is not allowed to struggle too long, and that the trap is not staked, or otherwise securely fastened. Even when securely staked the No. 4 Newhouse will hold almost any one of the younger grey wolves, and it is mostly the young animals that are captured.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Two-p.r.o.nged Drag.]

The standard trap is furnished with a short chain and ring, but when so ordered, the manufacturers will gladly furnish the traps with longer chains and the two p.r.o.nged drag shown in the cut, or if desired the drags alone may be purchased and attached to any trap chain. The two p.r.o.nged drag has an advantage over the four p.r.o.nged kind, as it will occupy less s.p.a.ce and may be more easily secreted.

It will be noted that the chain of the No. 4 1/2 trap has a double end. This is so that it may be looped around a small log or block of wood, if it is desired to do so. Some trappers prefer the chain without the iron drag, and for such the drag will be omitted. Others prefer to use the No. 4 trap with a 5 foot chain and a stone wired securely to the end. This makes a very good combination, but for some sections is not practicable as stones are "few and far between."

[Ill.u.s.tration: Method of Attaching an Oblong Stone.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Method of Attaching a Triangular Stone.]

On the subject of fastening traps, Mr. Vernon Bailey of the Biological Survey gives the following:

"The best anchor for a wolf trap is a stone drag of 30 or 40 pounds weight, to which the trap is securely wired. A long oval stone is the best, but a triangular or square stone can be securely wired.

Ordinary galvanized fence wire or telegraph wire should be fastened around the ends of the stone and connected by a double loop of the wire, then the trap chain fastened to the middle of this loop. A jerk on the trap tends to draw the bands together, and the spring of the connecting wire loop prevents a sudden jar that might break trap or chain. Twisted or barbed fence wire may be used if sufficiently strong, but it is not so easily handled. If no stones are available, or if the trap must be immovably fixed, it should be fastened with a twisted iron stake that can be driven below the surface of the ground. These stakes should be at least 18 inches long and of good iron straps three quarters of an inch wide and three-sixteenths of an inch thick. In light soil they should be still longer. See figures 1 and 2. If a picket pin sufficiently strong, provided with a swivel that will turn in all directions, can be purchased at the local hardware store, it may not be necessary to have a pin made to order."

[Ill.u.s.tration: Iron Stakes for Traps.]

It is our opinion that the twisted pin would not be as satisfactory as the plain one shown in Fig. 3. If the swivel should lock, and fail to work, the stake might be twisted out of the ground by the struggles of the animal. With the heavy, square pin shown in Fig. 3, this could not occur. The pin should be made of wrought iron, about 5/8 or 3/4 inch in diameter at the top, and tapering to a point. The length should be the same as those described above.

The majority of the trappers who prefer to stake the traps use hardwood stakes and attach the chains by means of hay baling wire, twisting it with a pair of pliers. In many parts of the wolf country, hardwood is not to be had and many of the trappers use the spokes of old wagon wheels for trap stakes. We believe, however, that iron stakes are to be preferred to wooden ones.

The traps to use for coyotes are the Nos. 3 and 4 and the most suitable style of chain would depend entirely on the method of setting and fastening the traps. In some of the sets described, for both wolf and coyote, the traps, some three or four in number, are all fastened to one stake and for such a set the chains should be short, as also in the bank set. Where it is desired to use a drag of any kind, the chain should be 4 or 5 feet in length. This should be remembered when purchasing the traps and the method of setting that will be used should be kept in mind.

As before mentioned, most of the wolves caught are young animals less than a year old. After a wolf has reached its third year, it has attained a high degree of intelligence, and comparatively few of that age are caught in traps. In some sections wolves are more wary than in others and are more difficult of capture. This depends much on the abundance or scarcity of food and the amount of hunting and trapping that has already been done in that section. Where wolves and coyotes have not been trapped much, they are less shy but they are always sufficiently wary to make extreme care in setting the traps necessary for success.

No matter what method of trapping may be employed, there is only one satisfactory way of setting the trap, on bare ground. In a smooth, sandy spot, dig out a hollow the same shape as the set trap and of such a depth that when the trap is in place and covered with about 1/4 inch of dirt, the covering will be flush with the surrounding surface of the ground. A narrow trench may then be made, to accommodate the chain, and a hole in which to bury the drag. If a stake is used it may be driven under the trap and the trench will not be needed, or it may be driven at the side according to the method of setting but the stake must be neatly covered in all cases. The trap is then placed in position, the chain, drag and springs are covered and the portion outside of the jaws is filled with dirt, leaving only the jaws and pan uncovered. Now a sheet of clean paper should be placed over the jaws and pan and the whole covered with about 1/4 or 3/8 inch of fine dirt, covering the edges first and finishing with the center. A piece of canvas or hide should be provided, on which to place the dirt while setting the traps, and with which to carry away what is not needed for covering. When the setting is finished everything should look as smooth and undisturbed as it did before the trap was set.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Trap Set and Ready for Covering.]

In case the paper sags between the trap jaws and the pan, a few lumps of ground may be so placed as to support it, but care must be used so that no dirt gets under the pan. In freezing weather, make the nest for the trap somewhat deeper and line it well with sage leaves or some other light material, also fill in around jaws and springs with same, before covering. This will prevent the trap from freezing down.

Do not put cotton under the pan as some advise doing, for if it gets wet it will freeze and interfere with the working of the trap. If the traps spring too easily, they may be remedied by drilling a small hole through the edge of the pan and inserting a tooth pick or small twig in such a way that it will support the pan. This will prevent birds and small animals from springing the traps. The same result may be obtained by bending the point of the "dog" or trigger of the trap upward and thereby causing the trap to spring harder.

Always before placing the trap in position, turn the springs towards the jaw that is held down by the trigger. This will allow the loose jaw to drop down to a level and let the trap rest more solidly in its nest. When adjusting the pan, always work from under the loose jaw, to avoid accidents.

Many trappers advise wearing gloves when setting or otherwise handling the traps, to prevent leaving human scent. It is our opinion that this is not only unnecessary but also useless, as the human odor will pa.s.s through a leather glove readily, and even through the sole of a heavy shoe. While there is no doubt that the scent of man will put any wary animal on its guard, there is no way to avoid leaving this same scent about the setting. This, however, will pa.s.s away after three or four days and it is after the traps have been set for some time that most of the wolves and coyotes are captured.

Although the traps may be handled with bare hands, we would advise that it is wise to not leave any more lasting odors than that from handling the traps, also do not leave any footprints or other signs of human presence. If, in summer, a line of traps can be set just before a rain, so much the better, as all odors and signs of disturbance will be removed by it. In winter a light fall of snow will have a tendency to improve the catch, as it will cover all human signs and to a great extent, smother the human and other odors that may have been left about the setting.

It is important that no lasting, foreign odors be allowed to remain on the traps or any of the implements used in making the set. The trapper should make it a point at all times to keep the traps clean and free from scents which might enable the animals to locate and avoid the trap. For the same reason strong smelling grease and oils, such as kerosene should never be used as preservatives, in fact, we think it best that the traps have no preparation whatever. Some trappers dip the traps in blood but unless the entire setting is saturated with same, it is not wise to do so as the wolf would be sure to locate it. When setting close to a large bait, it is well to rub the trap and chain with a piece of the bait, so that everything about the setting will have the same odor.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Wyoming Wolf Trapper Driving the Trap Stake.]

The same result may be obtained by covering the traps with hair from the animal used for bait, or with the contents of the paunch. When nesting the traps in sage leaves, as advised elsewhere, the odor of the trap will be greatly neutralized by the leaves, as they have a powerful odor. In trail sets on the cattle and sheep range, the traps may be covered with the droppings of the animals. All of these methods have the same result, namely, that of smothering the odor of the trap and allaying the animals' suspicions.

Just what will be needed for trapping wolves and coyotes will depend entirely on circ.u.mstances, but mainly on just how much of a business one wishes to make of it. The abundance or scarcity of the game, the nature of the country, the proximity to civilization and many other matters must also be considered. For the average professional trapper of the western cattle range, we believe the following will be about right: In the country lying just east of the Rocky Mountain Range, vegetation is rather scanty and as horses must pick their own living, they must have plenty of time for doing so, therefore, several saddle horses will be needed. In that way the trapper can change horses daily and give them a chance to rest and rustle food. For transporting the outfit and stringing out the traps, pack horses must be employed. Old, worn out horses will answer for packing and after the traps are once strung out, they may be killed for bait or otherwise disposed of, as one of the saddle horses may be used for what little packing is needed. The equipment should consist of a good easy saddle, bridle, pack-saddles, pack sacks, saddle blankets, hobbles, picket ropes, etc. If one is camping a good camping outfit will be necessary. Such an outfit would consist of a tent, blankets, cooking utensils, axe and some toilet articles. The average trapper would easily handle 100 traps, some trappers have many more, and the proper sizes and number of each size would depend on the proportionate number of wolves and coyotes found in that locality.

The trapper must also have wire for fastening traps, stakes, paper for covering, a file for sharpening the axe and repairing traps, a whetstone, a pair of cutting pliers, a high powered rifle and plenty of ammunition, saddle scabbard, gun oil, hunting knife, axe sheath, etc. Such an outfit is costly, and is only useful to the professional trapper, but if game is plentiful, it will soon pay for itself.

For the ranchman, sheep herder or average western trapper, all that need be purchased is an outfit of traps of a number which may be conveniently handled, and a rifle with ammunition for same. All of the outfit that will be needed is to be found on any western ranch and as the trapper will not be camping out, the camp outfit would be omitted.

CHAPTER X.

SCENTS AND BAITS.

Scents for attracting animals to traps have been employed for many years, but trappers differ greatly in their views regarding its value. Some use scent only, to attract the animals, and make good catches; others use bait alone and condemn anything in the line of scent. Some use neither scent nor bait but depend entirely on "blind sets".

The value of scent for trapping wolves and coyotes depends on the kind that is used and the method employed, the time of year, the s.e.x of the animal, whether trapping is prosecuted extensively, etc. We have no doubt that if the right scent is employed and used in the proper way that it will be productive of good results. In all probability those who are so ready to condemn scents have never used the right kind, or having tried the proper kind, have not used it in the right way.

If one will stop to consider just what scent is, and the object in using it, he must readily perceive its value, if the right kind is used. Scents are of various kinds and are expected to appeal to the animal in different ways. When one uses bait, it is the odor of same that attracts the animal from a distance,--why then will not a scent which suggests their favorite food also prove attractive? All animals of the dog family are very susceptible to food odors and the same scents will attract both the wolf and coyote. Then there are other scents which appeal to the animal's pa.s.sions. These will be described in the following pages. They are especially attractive to the wolf during the mating season, but are also good at other times, and should be used without bait.

The habit of depositing urine on the same spot used by another for that purpose is characteristic of all animals of the dog family. This is sometimes taken advantage of by the trapper, and the wolf urine is used in that way.

In some parts of the country it is probable that one would be more successful by using bait alone; in other places blind sets would be better. For many localities it is best to use a good scent, and especially so at certain seasons. For trapping grey wolves in summer, it is especially valuable as at that time meat baits soon become tainted and are not attractive to the animals.

The United States Biological Survey have made exhaustive tests with scents and the result is given in the following:

"Success in trapping depends mainly on the use of scents that will attract the wolves to the neighborhood of a trap and keep them tramping and pawing until caught. Meat bait alone is of little use, for as a rule the wolves kill an ample supply for themselves. Many tests of scents, both prepared baits and various animal musks, have been made with wolves in the field and in the National Zoological Park. While some have given a fair degree of success, others have proved worthless, and no one odor has proved entirely satisfactory.

Experiments are being continued, however, and new odors tried."

"Beaver musk (castoreum) and the commercial perfumery sold as musk have proved effective in many cases by causing the wolf to turn aside to follow the scented cross line and so walk into the trap. Siberian musk (from the Siberian musk deer ) is very attractive to wolves in the Zoo. Oil of anise and oil of rhodium seem to have no attraction for wild wolves, and are scarcely noticed by those in confinement.

a.s.safoetida is mildly attractive to wolves and coyotes at the Zoo, but used alone is very slightly, if at all, attractive to those on the range."

"Wolf urine taken from the bladder is used by some trappers, and is said to be very successful. It is bottled and kept until rancid and then sprinkled over the trap. The s.e.xual organs of the female wolf immersed in the urine are said to add efficacy to this bait. The urine of the female in the rutting season is said to be especially attractive to males; it should be used in January or February."

"Fetid bait.--The bait that has proved most effective may be called, for lack of a better name, fetid bait, because of its offensive odor.

It has been long in use in variously modified forms by the most successful wolf trappers, and its preparation is usually guarded as a profound secret. It cannot be credited to any one trapper, since no two prepare it in just the same way, but in most cases its fundamental odors are the same. It may be prepared as follows:

"Place half a pound of raw beef or venison in a wide-mouthed bottle and let it stand in a warm place (but never in the sun) from two to six weeks or longer or until it is thoroughly decayed and the odor has become as offensive as possible. If the weather is not very warm this may require several months. When decomposition has reached the proper stage, add a quart of sperm oil or some liquid animal oil.

Lard oil may be used, but prairie dog oil is better. Add half an ounce of a.s.safoetida, dissolved in alcohol and one ounce of tincture of Siberian musk, or, if this cannot be procured, one ounce of pulverized beaver castor or one ounce of the common musk sold for perfumery. Mix thoroughly and bottle securely until used."

The government has introduced this scent into Northern Michigan where it has been used successfully. Other very similar decoys are used extensively by Western trappers.

A scent which is highly recommended, and is used successfully by some Wyoming wolf and coyote trappers is made by chopping fine, equal portions of raw beef and fish and allowing same to decay in a covered vessel. After it is thoroughly decomposed, add an ounce of a.s.safoetida dissolved in alcohol to each pound of the decoy. Animal matter of any kind should never be allowed to decay in a tightly closed vessel, as the gases may cause it to burst, but it must be covered so as to exclude the flies. The above scent is claimed to be very attractive to both wolves and coyotes and we know that the trappers who used it made large catches, one of them having captured over 200 coyotes in a single season. This trapper states that if the perfume of the skunk is added to the decoy, its attractive properties are greatly increased. This scent may be used in connection with bait, or without, as preferred.

One of the northern trappers recommends a scent made by chopping fine, equal parts of rabbit, skunk and muskrat flesh, with a couple of wild mice added, and allow to decay in a jar. The jar should be about 2/3 full and after it is decomposed a half ounce oil of anise and a quant.i.ty of skunk scent is added, and the jar filled with goose oil. This is the recipe as given but we can not guarantee it to be attractive.

Many of the old time trappers claim to have scents which will draw a wolf or coyote a half mile, or more, to the trap. Those who make such statements should always be regarded with distrust for the chances are that they only wish to sell the scent or the formula. In nine cases out of ten it will be found that the scents are worthless. One of our old time friends wrote as follows:

"I have tried several so-called patent decoys with very indifferent results. The only scent I care to use is the urine from a female wolf or coyote killed in running season; sprinkle a drop or two on bush, stone or ground near traps, but not on bait. After catching one coyote at a setting I never trouble to bait again as the urine and droppings will serve to attract other coyotes better than any bait.

Have caught 6 at one setting, 5 of them with no other bait than the smell of the ground defiled by previous coyotes. They will come a long way to scratch and urinate on same spot, and seem to lose some of their caution."

Another successful trapper makes practically the same statements and his views are appended.

"After catching one wolf or coyote do not use more bait as the scent is strong enough to draw all that comes near. I do not use any patent decoy or scents, as I consider them useless for any game. The only scent I use is what I make myself and then only from February to April. In the summer I gather up four or five b.i.t.c.h dogs and as fast as they come in heat I kill them and take the organs of generation and pickle them in wide mouth bottles with alcohol enough to cover. I sprinkle a few drops on a stone or bush, stick in center between traps but use no other bait. This is also good for fox.