What to See in England Part 12

=How to get there.=--Train from St. Pancras or Liverpool Street.

Great Eastern Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Cambridge.

=Distance from London.=--55-3/4 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 1-1/4 and 2-1/2 hours. Quickest train, 1 h. 13 m.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 8s. 9d. ... 4s. 7-1/2d.

Return 15s. 10d. ... 9s. 3d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Bull Hotel," "Lion Hotel,"

"University Arms Hotel," "Hoop Hotel," "Bath Hotel," etc.

=Alternative Routes=.--From Euston by L. and N.W. Railway.

From King's Cross, Great Northern Railway. From St.

Pancras, Midland Railway.

Cambridge shares with its sister university, Oxford, the honour of being one of the two most ancient seats of learning in Great Britain. The town itself is of very remote origin, and stands on the site of the Roman station _Camboric.u.m_, on the _Via Devana_. By the Saxons, Cambridge appears to have been known as Grantabrycge, which was probably later abbreviated into Cantbrigge. The true history of the town as a university began at the opening of the twelfth century, when Joffred, Abbot of Crowland, sent over to Cottenham, near Cambridge, four monks, who, in a hired barn, started their teachings, which soon became excessively popular. The first regular society of students was founded in 1257.

Cambridge abounds in features of interest and contains a large number of old churches, perhaps the most interesting being that of St. Sepulchre, one of the four circular churches remaining in England. This church, which is in Bridge Street, was erected in the reign of Henry I., and founded, like the one at Northampton, by the Knights Templars in imitation of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.

The colleges are, of course, the glory of Cambridge, and one is almost bewildered by the beauty and variety of their architecture. King's College Chapel is one of the most magnificent examples in the town, but nearly all the more important collegiate buildings are beautiful types of mediaeval work. The visitor should on no account omit to walk through the "Backs," which is the 'varsity term for the backs of the colleges, with the "Fellows' Gardens" reaching down to the quiet Cam. The Great Court, Trinity College, is one of the most imposing of the numerous quadrangles, and is the largest of any at either Oxford or Cambridge.

The Master's Lodge here is the residence of the sovereign on all royal visits.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

ST. JOHN'S GATEWAY, CAMBRIDGE.]

ARUNDEL CASTLE

=How to get there.=--Trains from Victoria and London Bridge. By London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Arundel.

=Distance from London.=--58-1/4 miles.

=Average Time.=--2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 9s. 2d. 6s. 0d. 4s. 8d.

Return 14s. 10d. 10s. 7d. 9s. 4d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Norfolk Hotel," "Eagle Inn,"

"Bridge Hotel," "Granville Boarding House," etc.

The interior of the castle is not shown to visitors without special permission from the Duke of Norfolk, the keep alone being thrown open to all on Mondays and Fridays between 12 and 4 P.M.--tickets being obtained at the Norfolk Hotel. The park, however, is open to the public.

The town of Arundel is one of the oldest and most beautifully situated in Suss.e.x, that county of ancient towns, and its castle, a wonderful feudal fortress, was originally bequeathed by Alfred the Great to his nephew Adhelm. After the Conquest, it came into the possession of Roger de Montgomery, who rebuilt it, and in 1097 it was held for a short time by William II. It was at Arundel Castle that Adeliza, the widow of Henry I., entertained Queen Maud in 1139. The castle came afterwards to the Fitzalans, and from them by marriage to the Howard family, who still hold it. It was the object of several fierce attacks during the Parliamentary War, for having been captured by Waller and garrisoned for the Parliament, it was retaken by the Royalists under Lord Hopton, and soon after taken once more by Waller. The castle was much damaged by all these a.s.saults, and was almost in ruins at the commencement of the last century, when it was taken in hand and restored by the then Duke of Norfolk. Of the ancient buildings, the keep, the entrance gateway, and parts of the walls, are all that now remain. The keep or Bevis Tower is an old Norman structure with walls 8 to 10 feet thick, having in the centre the castle dungeon, reached by a narrow staircase in the wall.

The restoration was made as much as possible in conformity with the style of the old fortress, and the interior is a good example of modern Gothic art, the new chapel being an interesting example of this. The Baron's Hall, with its open chestnut roof and stained-gla.s.s windows, is perhaps one of the most striking features in the castle.

A fine stone bridge of three arches connects the two portions of the town. It spans the river Arun, which is navigable up to Arundel for vessels of 150 tons burden.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

ARUNDEL CASTLE.

Built soon after the Conquest by Roger de Montgomery. It was much damaged during the Parliamentary War, but was repaired by a former Duke of Norfolk early in the 19th century.]

OLNEY, BUCKS

THE HOME OF COWPER

=How to get there.=--Train from St. Pancras. Change trains at Bedford.

Midland Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Olney.

=Distance from London.=--60-1/2 miles.

=Average Time.=--1-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 8s. 1d. ... 4s. 9-1/2d.

Return 16s. 2d. ... 9s. 7d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Bull Hotel," etc.

Olney was for a period the home of the delicate and sensitive poet William Cowper, who was born at the parsonage of Great Berkhampstead.

His father was chaplain to George II. Cowper lost his mother at a very early age, and the sad event made a deep impression on his mind. In after years he wrote a poem addressed to his mother's portrait which it is said has drawn more tears than any other poem in the English language. Cowper was sent to school at six years of age, but was very unhappy there, and it laid the foundation of that settled gloom which oppressed him all through life. When Cowper had finished his studies at the Westminster School he commenced the study of law, and was afterwards called to the bar; but he never practised, for he hated law. Cowper was offered several appointments, but failed in examinations for them from extreme nervousness. By the kindness of friends an income was secured for him and he went to reside at Huntingdon. Here he formed an acquaintance with Mrs. Unwin, the "Mary" of his poems, which ripened into deepest friendship. He enjoyed much tranquil happiness during the time of his residence with the Unwin family.

When Cowper and his friends moved to Olney they lived in the old-fashioned regular fronted house ill.u.s.trated opposite. Here Cowper is said to have amused himself with his hares and in the making of boxes and tables. He was also interested in the bees in the old-fashioned garden at the back of the house, where one may still see the little rustic summer-house in which _John Gilpin_ and some of the _Task_ were written. The house now contains a Cowper museum, and visitors thus have an opportunity of seeing the parlour and other rooms, besides many other interesting objects connected with the poet. His great friend at Olney was the Rev. John Newton. They were constantly together in their walks, in their homes, and at church, and both wrote a number of hymns.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Thornborough._

COWPER'S HOME AT OLNEY.

The house now contains a Cowper museum.]

WANTAGE AND THE COUNTRY OF ALFRED THE GREAT

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.

=Nearest Station.=--Wantage Road.

=Distance from London.=--60-1/2 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 10s. 0d. 6s. 4d. 5s. 0-1/2d.

Return 17s. 8d. 11s. 0d. 10s. 1d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--Good posting and hotels. "Bear Hotel" and "Blue Boar."