Up The Baltic Part 42

COPENHAGEN AND TIVOLI.

All the boats of the squadron came into line, each with the flag in the bow and stern. They pulled along the water front of the city, around a couple of Danish men-of-war, and of course created a sensation. One by one the boats rowed up to the landing, and the students went on sh.o.r.e, each crew securing its cutter at the wharf, near the steps. The custom-house officers were on the alert; but as no one had parcels of any kind, the students were not detained. Mr. and Mrs. Kendall landed, and as they intended to spend a few days in the city, they had a couple of valises, which the porters, who are always in waiting at all the ports in Europe, conveyed into the custom-house.

The Toldbod, as this edifice is called by the Danes, is surrounded by a high wall, which also encloses the entire landing-place, so that none can visit the city from the sea without pa.s.sing through its gates.

One of the officers spoke English very well, and evidently took pride in doing so, for he asked a great many questions so pleasantly, that it was impossible to explain his object in any other way. He wished to know whether the travellers had any clothing they had not worn, and whether Mrs. Kendall had any tobacco or liquor. She protested that she did not use tobacco or liquor; and the actual examination of the baggage was a mere form. The man was so polite, that Paul at once concluded he was only practising his English. A carriage was procured, and Dr. Winstock and Captain Lincoln were invited to join the party.

The inquiring students deemed it a great privilege to be permitted to go with the surgeon, for he was a walking encyclopaedia of every city and country in Europe. As Paul Kendall had been before, Captain Lincoln was now, the favorite of the doctor, and the little party were to see the city together.

The carriage went out at the gate, and pa.s.sed into Amaliegade. The houses were plain and substantial, without much ornament. They were of brick, but most of them were covered with stucco.

"What's this?" asked Paul, as the carriage entered an open s.p.a.ce, with an equestrian statue in the centre.

"Frederiksplads," replied the doctor; "and that is the statue of Frederik V., who came to the throne in 1746, and in whose reign this palace was erected."

The place was an octagon, surrounded on all sides by public buildings.

"This is the residence of the king on the left. On the other side is the palace of the crown prince. There is the foreign office, and on the other side lives the queen dowager."

"They are not very elegant buildings," said Captain Lincoln.

"No; there are no very fine buildings in Copenhagen, though the Exchange is a very curious structure, and some are very large and unwieldy. There's the Casino," added the doctor.

"What's a casino?" inquired the captain.

"Here it is a building for dancing, concerts, theatrical performances, and similar amus.e.m.e.nts in the winter season. Everything is cheap here, and the price of admission to the Casino, where one joins the dance or sees a play, is two or three marks."

"How much is that? I haven't looked up the money yet," said Paul.

"A rigsbank dollar is the unit, worth about fifty-four cents of our money. It is divided into six marks, of nine cents each, and a mark into sixteen skillings, of about half a cent each. When the Italian opera is at the Casino, the prices are only three or four marks. This is Gothersgade," added Dr. Winstock, as the carriage turned into another street. "In plain English, Gothic street."

"There's another equestrian statue," added Captain Lincoln, pointing to a large, irregular s.p.a.ce, surrounded by public buildings.

"The statue of Christian V. This is Kongens, or King's Square. There are the Academy of Arts, the Royal Theatre, the Guard House, the New Market--none of them very fine, as you can see for yourselves."

The carriage crossed this square, and came out at a ca.n.a.l, on the other side of which was the vast palace of Christiansborg. A short distance farther brought the party to the Royal Hotel. The carriage stopped at the door in the arch, and the two landlords, the porter, the waiters, and the clerk, half a score strong, turned out to receive its occupants. All of them bowed low, and all of them led the way up stairs. Paul took a parlor and chamber for himself and lady.

"Now, where's Joseph?" asked Dr. Winstock.

"Who's Joseph?" inquired the captain.

"He is the guide at this hotel, if he is still living."

Joseph was sent for, and soon made his appearance. He was an elderly man, with gray hair and whiskers, neatly dressed in black. His manners were very agreeable, and he exhibited a lively zeal to serve the tourists. Mr. Lowington had been courteously waited upon by an officer of the government, who had volunteered to have the various palaces, museums, and other places of interest, opened during the afternoon and the next day. Joseph had procured a two-horse carriage, and the party at the hotel seated themselves in it, with the guide on the box with the driver.

"That's the Slot," said Joseph, pointing across the ca.n.a.l.

"The what?" exclaimed Captain Lincoln.

"The Slot, or Palace of Christiansborg."

"Slot! What a name!"

"But not any worse than the German word _Schloss_," added Joseph, laughing. "Do you speak German, sir?"

"Not much."

The guide uttered a few sentences in German, evidently for the purpose of demonstrating that he spoke the language.

"The palace is on an island called Slotsholm, and is as big as it is ugly. Shall we go there now?"

"No; we want a general view of the city first," replied Dr. Winstock.

"I think we had better ascend to the top of the Round Tower."

Joseph gave the order, and the carriage proceeded to the tower. The ca.n.a.l in front of the hotel was filled with small craft, which had brought pottery and various wares from other parts of Denmark, to sell. The goods were arranged on the decks and on the sh.o.r.e of the ca.n.a.l. Near were groups of women, who were selling fish, vegetables, and other articles, around whom was a crowd of purchasers.

"I suppose you have heard of Andersen?" said Joseph to the captain.

"Heard of him! I have read all his books which have been translated into English," replied Captain Lincoln.

"He has rooms in that building some of the time. Do you see that sign--Melchoir?"

"Yes."

"This Melchoir is a very dear friend of Andersen, who lives with him a portion of the time."

"Is it possible to see Hans Christian Andersen?" asked Mrs. Kendall.

"Quite possible, madam. I will see about it to-day. He is a very agreeable man, and willing to meet all who wish to see him," answered Joseph. "There's the Town Hall," he added, as the carriage pa.s.sed a large building, with an extensive colonnade in front.

"'_Med Lov skal man Land bygge_,'" said Lincoln, reading an inscription on the front. "Those are my sentiments exactly."

"'With law must the land be built' is the English of that," laughed Joseph. "All the Jutland laws begin with this phrase, which was spoken by Waldemar II. We Danes believe in law, and everything that is good. Copenhagen is a very fine city, and everything is remarkably cheap here."

"What do you call your city in your own lingo, Joseph?"

"Kjobenhavn; p.r.o.nounce it Chep-en-ahn."

"Chepenahn," repeated Lincoln.

"Speak it a little quicker, and you will have it right. It was first called simply the Haven; then in Danish, when many merchants carried on business here, _Kaupmannahofn_, or merchants' haven, from which it was shortened into _chepenahn_. Here is the Round Tower," added Joseph, as the carriage stopped.

The party alighted and entered the structure, which was the tower of the Church of the Trinity.

"This used to be the watch tower, where men were kept to give the alarm in case of fire; but the observatory has been moved to the tower of St. Nicholas, and now we have a telegraphic fire alarm. Won't you walk up to the top of this tower, where you can have a fine view of the whole city? The ascent is very easy," continued Joseph.

There were no stairs, but an inclined plane, gradual in its rise, permitted the tourists to ascend to the summit with very little labor.

"We might have driven up in the carriage," said Captain Lincoln.