Travels in the Far East Part 20

We next took the train for Yumoto, the point of departure by jinrikisha for Miyanos.h.i.ta.

The train ride to Yumoto was most unusual, as the line lay through a succession of small villages, the road sometimes being so narrow that we could see into the homes or look into shop windows as we went through a business street. At Yumoto we took a jinrikisha for the ascent to Miyanos.h.i.ta; the route was picturesque. To the left were mountains, the rocky sides sometimes projecting over the roadway, and giving me the sensation of imminent danger.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _View of Miyanos.h.i.ta_]

To the right, far below, was a long extended valley through which poured a mountain stream, the murmur of which was a continual refrain. On the other side of the valley was a towering range of mountains. The whole scene affects one in a peculiarly subtle way; there is a sensation of being withdrawn from the actual experiences, of living in a new and far-away world. Suddenly the road diverged, and we had mountains on either side; another turn, and on a tree was a signboard, "Durkee's Scotch Whiskey." Instantly the "supreme moment" vanished, and I was again in my home city, and one of a band of women battling "the bill-board nuisance." I was rebellious at thus being despoiled of my poetic mood and tried to regain lost ground, but erelong another turn and Durkee's Scotch Whiskey again appeared! Sadly I resigned myself to fate and awaited our arrival at the Fujira Hotel.

It was dark when we reached the little village and went still farther up the slope to where the lights were gleaming from the circling, four-divisioned hostelry.

As I entered the s.p.a.cious hall and caught glimpses of the adjacent apartments, then went upward to my own dainty room furnished in European style, I felt a sense of relief. Two little maids appeared to offer service, a pretty kimono and slippers suggested comfort, and I was content! Descending to the dining-room a little later, I met an English lady and her brother, who had been steamer and hotel companions several times, and this furnished more good cheer.

The following morning, I joined an early party for the excursion to Lake Hakone. It was a glorious day and promised well for the hoped-for view of Mt. Fujiyama, 12,000 feet above the sea.

The way is too rough and mountainous to be taken other than in a sedan chair. At first we had lovely mountain scenery, then the road grew wilder and mountain gorges appeared on either hand, then in one place there were far distant mountains, a nearer range almost sloping to our pathway. Sometimes the ascent was so steep and the path so narrow that it required much holding on to retain the seat in the chair.

This was even more difficult when we began to make our descent to the village, which is, however, 2378 feet above the sea (Miyanos.h.i.ta is 1377 feet). The little j.a.panese tea-house where we tarried and had our luncheon is finely located close to the sh.o.r.e of Lake Hakone, a beautiful body of water with wooded sh.o.r.es. This lake is popular for boating and bathing.

From the window we looked out on the distant sacred mountain, Fujiyama, which is revered by all j.a.pan. Sometimes the clouds rested lovingly on its crest, and sometimes almost veiled it, but twice we saw the entire snow-covered s.p.a.ce and no adjective can describe the matchless glory of that view. Poets have sung of it, and legend has woven fantastic tales around it, which the natives accept without a doubt.

Mt. Fugii is the scene in Summer of constant visitations--about forty thousand pilgrims appearing there yearly, mostly of the working-cla.s.s.

Before the sixteenth century the mountain was in a constant state of eruption, the last great activity occurring at the beginning of the eighteenth century.

The ride across the lake is pleasant,--the castle an interesting feature,--and by taking it, one discovers a different way to return to Miyanos.h.i.ta, but I preferred the route of the morning, as the reverse views are always reinforcingly interesting.

There were pleasant short walks from our hotel and many very easy excursions, so one naturally lingers, as long as possible. The friends I alluded to had been there two weeks. I left with regret.

The third morning we started out in a pouring rain, and so had a closed jinrikisha; if we missed the beauty of the scenery in our descent to Yumoto, we took comfort in the fact that we escaped the "bill-board"!

Arriving at Yokohama, I found a whole bevy of friends at the hotel awaiting the departure of the next steamer for San Francisco. We had all met at different places, once, twice, or thrice, and thus pleasant reminiscences and sociability now prevailed. Three were to leave on the _Korea_, scheduled to sail on June 29th, which augured well for my homeward pa.s.sage.

I had intended returning to Tokio, but, remembering each detail of my former visit vividly, I decided instead to try to see Tokio through others' eyes. The Emperor and Empress are spoken of with the utmost respect, the Emperor being progressive in public and political ideas.

The Empress is said to have a fine mind and to be accomplished; in matters of social importance she has been instrumental in breaking down many barriers; and while we needs must regret the adoption of Parisian modes of dress by the court, we must remember it was done with the distinct purpose of harmonizing the customs of the Orient with those of the Occident. A diplomat spoke of Tokio as an agreeable place of residence in every way. Native and foreign hospitality in the home are absolutely separate; the j.a.panese wife does not receive general visits, but her husband may entertain royally at his club, and most elaborate entertainments are spoken of. The social circles of Tokio and Yokohama have common interests, as the cities are but a short distance apart and there is a mutual acquaintance. I met two American ladies who have resided over thirty-five years in Yokohama, and they are most loyal in their views.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Theatre Street in Yokohama_]

In other lands I have visited, I have only dared give a tourist's impressions fortified by some acknowledged authority, or by those who have had the advantage of a long-time residence. My j.a.panese impressions can only hint at what this wonderful land offers in beauty, in poetic sentiment, and in development of life. To understand her people, one must be a student for years; even Lafcadio Hearn admitted, after sixteen years, that he knew very little of the land and of the people. Every bow, every courtesy embodies a tradition of ages, handed down from generation to generation. This truth should do away with the popular belief that j.a.panese courtesy is all affectation.

There is another statement that ought to be carefully considered; it is that the j.a.panese, as a people, are dishonest. I have heard this opinion expressed usually in a comparison between the Chinese and the j.a.panese, the instance of employment of Chinese bookkeepers and accountants being cited as proof. I talked with several persons who had ground for their belief, and the consensus of opinion exonerated the j.a.panese from so serious a charge. One said the j.a.panese, with all their versatility, have little apt.i.tude for figures and realize it; another said that a descendant of the old samurai would scorn to take the position of a bookkeeper, considering the position beneath him. Everywhere in j.a.pan I left doors and drawers unlocked and never lost an article. At the hotel in Yokohama, when leaving for a three days' absence, I applied at the office for keys to the chiffonier and wardrobe. The clerk said, "Does your door lock?" I replied, "Yes." "You need then have no fear, as the servants are invariably honest." One gentleman, however, admitted that in the matter of the verbal contract the Chinaman would consider it to be as binding as a written one, while the j.a.panese might break it. We Americans usually require written contracts at home, and we occasionally hear of dishonesty and defalcation; but would we for a moment like to be considered a dishonest people because of these isolated instances?

We were constantly meeting some one who was contrasting the two countries with a view of emphasizing China's supremacy. Many seemed jealous because j.a.pan had succeeded in shaking off the shackles imposed by law and custom, and had made remarkable strides along the lines of progress. China with her wonderful past, her great resources and intellectual force, will do the same thing some day, when she emerges from a tyranny of law and tradition that covers a "modern" period of three thousand years. The victory of j.a.pan over China in 1894 taught one lesson; but the Russian-j.a.panese war was even a greater lesson,--one that the new party in China has not failed to make use of, and only time can tell the outcome. The difference between the two nations is one of kind, not of degree; there is little racial sympathy between them, and fifty years from now, if one reads the signs correctly, there may be more sympathy between j.a.pan and Russia than between j.a.pan and China.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Mountains around Hakona_]

The j.a.panese are sincere in their unbounded desire to improve, particularly to acquire a knowledge of English and other languages. In shops or corners you will see unkempt boys poring over an English primer or reader. They are all provident as a people, and since the close of the war the nation has bent every energy toward industrial development.

Considerable has been said about the j.a.panese war loan; there is authority for stating that much of the money thus borrowed at that time was used for industrial expansion, as six railways alone were bought in 1906, and we have seen the amount expended in Manchuria in keeping up a long line in an alien land at a great expense. Of j.a.pan's commercial future much might be said. Truly, we of the United States ought to respect a people who have ideals somewhat like our own.

So many courtesies had been extended to us at the Grand Hotel in Yokohama that we left with a profound feeling of appreciation. The steamer _Korea_, of the Pacific Line, was to be our home for sixteen days. A friend arrived from North China, who became my room-mate, and the conditions were in every way pleasant. The social life aboard was similar to that on an English steamer; many games were projected and prizes given, the most elaborate things being reserved for the Fourth of July, both for children and adults. Greatly to my surprise, I was awakened on that morning by a volley of fire-crackers from the end of the deck. A festive spirit prevailed all day, and in the evening an extensive concert was given in the salon.

The first real excitement was our arrival at Honolulu on July 9th, where we were allowed one day. The city, with its beautiful location and tropical vegetation, is too well known to need description. We went first by automobile to Mt. Pali, quite a distance in the country; here we had a wonderful view looking across a long level stretch to a point beyond which were rice-fields in the stage of early green, and beyond that a sugar plantation, and beyond that still farther off a ma.s.s of green foliage. The landscape at once marked Honolulu as being somewhat akin to Java. The mountains here are volcanic in their origin.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Mount Pali, Honolulu_]

Returning from Pali, we went to the Punch Bowl and Diamond Head, an extinct volcano. Next, we took a long drive along the sea front to the beautiful hotel called Moana, where we met friends. The ride led through one of the princ.i.p.al residence streets, and we noticed beautiful homes with their extensive grounds and profusion of palms, shrubs, and flowers. We also saw the former palace of the Queen, which is now reserved as the Governor's residence. We then went to Young's Hotel for lunch, and, after that, visited some minor points of interest and some shops, returning to the steamer in the late afternoon, feeling that Honolulu was indeed one of the beauty spots of earth. On reaching the ship, it seemed as if every pa.s.senger--man, woman, and child--was decorated with long wreaths of flowers reaching to the ground; the flowers are ruthlessly pulled to pieces and strung together to tempt the tourists. It was really a very beautiful sight, but unfortunately the flowers soon faded.

The day following we saw the battle fleet, only about two miles distant, _en route_ for Yokohama; there were fifteen war-vessels, and it was indeed a wonderful spectacle.

We arrived in the harbor of San Francisco at noon on July 14th, and, after the usual delay with the health officer, we were soon in the throes of the custom house, and it was an ordeal never before experienced. We had been told by the steward on the steamer that we must strictly follow the regulations laid down in the circular issued by the Government, December, 1907. I paid the penalty of my honesty, and the law was strictly enforced. I said to the custom house officer: "The lady opposite was through nearly an hour ago." He remarked: "She probably told a good many lies." And that was the consolation I had; having paid my duty in a resigned frame of mind, believing in a protective tariff, I departed.

The view of the harbor as we entered had seemed quite as it was of old, and indeed its beauty impressed me more than ever before; but, as I left the wharf and drove along some of the streets of the earthquake-stricken city, there was a heartache, so much of wreck and ruin was evident. My companion, who was in San Francisco two years before, told me that the renovation seemed wonderful,--an opinion in which I concurred after arriving at the St. Francis Hotel, for there were fine blocks newly built in the vicinity.

I remained a few days in San Francisco, and visited certain familiar points, most of my friends being out of the city in the month of July. I went across to the beautiful suburb of Oakland and visited some shops which seemed to me quite equal (except in their buildings) to those of old. No one can visit San Francisco at the present time without being impressed with the energy and enthusiasm displayed and by the amount of work being accomplished.

I left on July 20th, over the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific. This way is so widely known for its beauty of scenery that it seems unnecessary to attempt any description. Mt. Shasta wore a smiling face the morning of our arrival, the recent heat wave having melted much of the snow that crowns its rugged summit.

Portland has a splendid location, with mountains and the sea alike accessible, broad streets, and an unusually fine residence portion. Mt.

Hood was, however, wreathed in smoke on account of the prevailing forest fires. The railway journey from Portland to Seattle is not lacking in interest, as there is varied scenery the entire way.

A week in Seattle revived the impression of three years since, but the city has made wonderful progress meanwhile, not only in growth of population but in important public buildings and in the wealth of private residences, particularly on the heights for which Seattle, like San Francisco, is famous. Mt. Rainier was shrouded in mist and smoke, but Puget Sound and Lakes Washington and Union added unusual features to the landscape setting.

A detour of a day to Tacoma showed another beautifully located city high above Puget Sound, which, having once been very prosperous, pa.s.sed through a reactionary stage, but is again alert and vigorous. Tacoma has also fine buildings and attractive homes, and a great future lies before it.

The railway journey from Seattle to Bellingham--about one hundred miles--is interesting, for until we reach Everett we have Puget Sound to our left and forests to our right, only broken at a few points by small towns. Then we lose sight of the Sound until within a few miles of Bellingham. The next reach of intervening waterway is termed Bellingham Bay, and it furnishes a setting for a city situated both on hills and lowland, withal very picturesque, Mt. Baker near in view and the Selkirk range dimly visible. Bellingham is really a combination of four towns, Whatcom, Fair Haven, Sea Home, and South Bellingham; it is a city of about thirty-seven thousand inhabitants. The unifying process is going on, and in a few years its separate ident.i.ty will be forgotten, for with its large interests--lumber and the salmon fisheries (here are located the most important establishments in the world for the canning of salmon)--Bellingham has a future before it, and my sojourn there is fraught with many pleasant recollections of courtesies received, aside from the good cheer of my daughter's home.

The State of Washington, with its fine climate, great forests, and fertile soil, supplemented by natural beauty of landscape, proved a revelation to me.

My way eastward lay over the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Three years previous I had pa.s.sed days in the Canadian Rockies; so Vancouver, Glacier, Field, Laggan, and Banff recalled familiar a.s.sociations, while the intervening scenery had lost none of its exciting interest. Certain it is that you rarely find finer mountains, either at home or abroad.

A few hours' stay in St. Paul and the renewal of some pleasant a.s.sociations, and I was speeding homeward, arriving in Milwaukee early on the morning of September 30, 1908, almost a year from the time of my departure.

In closing let me quote an extract, written eight years ago, on a return with my daughter from over a year's absence abroad (including the Western Orient): "Gazing on the lake front at Juneau Park and looking onward to the terraced slopes of Prospect Avenue, then on to the sky line of the water-tower, I exclaimed, 'No fairer scene has met my vision.' At which sentiment the bronze statue of Solomon Juneau before me seemed to nod approval, as a Founder should."

THE END

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Realizing from personal experience, as well as from observation, that the mosques are too hurriedly visited and too little understood, an attempt at cla.s.sification has here been made, as well as to give them a certain setting. This may prove a reminiscence to those who are familiar with the mosques, and an incentive to investigation on the part of those who are yet to visit Cairo.

[2] In 1877 Delhi acquired prominence as the place where H.M. Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. The magnificent Coronation Durbar of H.M. King Edward VII of England was also held there by Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, on January 1, 1900.

[3] This seeming repet.i.tion refers to a second Pearl Mosque.

[4] Buitenzorg divides the honor with Batavia of being a capital, and its beauty of location and fine climate (seven hundred feet above the sea-level) make it a favorite resort, as well as the centre of the wealth and fashion of the island. In Buitenzorg one might linger on indefinitely and never count the days.

[5] There has been a yearly revenue of $20,000,000 for some time.

[6] Mr. Macheeda proved himself worthy of his descent from the Samurai; always a gentleman and a perfect guide.