Travels in the Far East Part 19

Sight-seeing in Seoul is less exhausting than in other cities, as there are no galleries, museums, or elaborate tombs to be described. The interest in the city is found amongst its street scenes and in the peculiar life of its people.

Seoul spreads out over a plain, which extends to the mountains. There is quite a variety of scenery included within its area. The country near by is extremely picturesque, quite unlike the outskirts of Peking. There are small villages and pleasant walks and drives at an easy distance from the city.

The bazars are placed far out on the street, except in one point where there seems to be only one central bazar.

The manufacture of bra.s.s is the specialty of Seoul; all the ancient forms are reproduced. Some of our party purchased large collections of artistic and serviceable articles.

The most imposing building is the Temple of Heaven. It is bare, compared with the one at Peking, but it has some features that are similar and is made of marble. It is, however, a combination of the two temples seen in Peking, opening at the side, and having an open roof over the centre; adjoining it there is a three-story paG.o.da, much like a pavilion in many respects.

The ancient tomb of the old Korean n.o.blemen interested us. It is of marble, with a peculiar carving on top. At the base is an immense tortoise.

The Buddhist temple was also visited. This had an imposing entrance approached by white marble steps. It was s.p.a.cious, but architecturally far inferior to those we had seen elsewhere. The upturned roof was interesting.

The marble paG.o.da, rising seven stories above the base, was really very beautiful. It had a special small enclosure about it, filled with flowers. This enclosure was in a large park, which contained an artistic pavilion, evidently for the convenience of people who wished to view the paG.o.da.

There are said to be eighteen palaces in Seoul. Some of these at present are not in use. We pa.s.sed the new marble palace where the Emperor was staying. Then we went on to the large old palace which has been vacant ever since the a.s.sa.s.sination of the Queen. There were imposing entrance gates here, and many preliminary buildings before we reached the most important ones. The Audience Hall is very s.p.a.cious and very well proportioned. The approach to it is fine, consisting of many marble seats where the high officials sat when his Majesty appeared. From the exterior the Audience Hall seems to have two stories, as there are two of the peculiar Chinese roofs, but inside it forms one very high room.

The Audience Hall as a building is a great decorative feature in the palace grounds. There is one other large room in it called, I believe, the Hall of Congratulation.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _An old tomb of a high official_]

We pa.s.sed on to the palace of the a.s.sa.s.sinated Queen. This has now been torn down by order of the Resident General, on account of its unpleasant a.s.sociation both to the Koreans and to the j.a.panese. It originally covered a good deal of ground and must have been s.p.a.cious. The grounds are very large and interesting, containing many lovely trees. One building therein was raised like an immense pavilion and surrounded by a miniature lake, very pleasing with its setting of green and at times covered with water-lilies.

Quite a pretentious building, with its wide projecting Chinese eaves open on all sides and showing columns, was the one which contained the monument erected in honor of the Emperor's jubilee.

A picturesque feature of the city consists of the gates of the Wall. We took drives through these to different points near by. Particularly noticeable is the Western Gate, or Gate of General Righteousness. This is ma.s.sive, showing the thickness of the wall, and the high roof over the arch is very effective.

All the hills around Korea are considered sacred and are dedicated to burial purposes. In one alone, seventy-five thousand persons are placed.

The drive presents very diversified scenery. As we approached the tomb of the Queen, considerable formality was required. It was necessary to possess a permit, soldiers being stationed outside the grounds. The hill was very broad and quite steep at places, and on top the large tomb was composed of marble. We could have visited several others, but preferred to return home by the way of an old Buddhist monastery, a great part of the road being lined with trees on either side. We found the monastery rather dismantled and but few monks in attendance. They have to endure many privations, and their surroundings looked extremely bare.

After this excursion, we ended the day by attending the Korean Theatre.

The ride there was interesting, as we saw all the particular evening sights I have described. The arrangement of the room was very simple; we sat in elevated boxes at the sides. About the stage all the details were primitive. The action of the play was poor, but the enthusiasm of the audience was great. We remained but a short time.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _A white marble paG.o.da in Seoul_]

In the matter of education the women of the higher cla.s.s are somewhat above the average, but those of the middle and lower cla.s.ses are entirely ignorant. Education is one of the many recent reforms inst.i.tuted; the old order of things is rapidly being changed.

Electricity has been introduced, electric trams extend some distances even into the country, and there is a good postal service. A gentleman who had been a resident for some fifteen years is my authority for stating that in his opinion the mistake the j.a.panese were making in their protectorate was in pushing reforms too rapidly. The Koreans are slow in their response to foreign and western ideas.

The deposed King seems to be of a peculiar type. He is described as having a weakness for intrigue, his early education having been received under conditions that foster such qualities. He was married at thirteen years of age to the late Queen; she was said to be unusually gifted, and an attractive woman, even though unscrupulous and at times cruel.

There are many opinions regarding the immediate outcome of j.a.pan's protectorate over Korea. Those who have faith in the integrity of Marquis Ito believe in good results; others fear that the invasion of a large number of j.a.panese having business interests will rather overshadow the Koreans, who are indolent and inclined to take their ease. On this subject there can be only conjecture; time will decide.

An interesting book, "In Korea with Marquis Ito," which has been published during the year, deals with this question fully; George Trumbull Ladd is the author.

Looking backward, we find that the kings of Korea were the va.s.sals of China for a long period, but as one of the results of the Chinese-j.a.panese war, there was a complete renunciation of the authority of the Emperor of China. Hence it seems strange that at the close of the Russian-j.a.panese war another important change and crisis should have come to Korea.

FROM SEOUL, KOREA, TO YOKOHAMA: We left Seoul at eight on the morning of June 9th for Fusan, and the railway journey, an all-day trip, was a fatiguing one, owing to the dust; but we had glimpses of mountain scenery and plains. Fusan was simply a point of departure for j.a.pan. We took our steamer, _Satsuma-maru_, at six that evening for the night only, as we were due at Shimonoseki early the next morning. The approach here was through the straits, and was unlike any previous view,--a wide entrance between two high promontories, with mountains on either side.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Street scene in Seoul_]

Shimonoseki is quite an important point commercially, but our stay was, as I say, one of convenience only, since we took the train at 9.30 for Miyajima and the Sacred Island. This is considered the finest railway trip in j.a.pan as regards scenery, and our exclamations of delight were many, for there were mountains covered with verdure and rice-fields, and from time to time glimpses of the famed Inland Sea. We had long antic.i.p.ated this visit to the Sacred Island; we knew Miyajima had a population of three thousand, and was a fishing village, aside from the great interest which attaches to the temples; that the island rose eighteen hundred feet above the sea and was rocky, although covered with heavy foliage; but I was unprepared for the unique charm that awaited us.

The approach to Miyajima, as we crossed the lake, gave us a fine first impression,--the great torii standing boldly forth from its watery base; the stone lanterns in the foreground; the temple seen dimly through the green; and the thickly wooded hills in the background all added greatly to the landscape. At our right, on an eminence, was situated the Mikado Hotel, which was to shelter us, and which we later found to be an ideal abiding-place.

We proceeded at once to the great temple, which, with its corridors and galleries, six hundred feet long, represented something distinctively unique. One line of galleries extends out into the water at high tide, and stretches out like so many arms in various directions; a new series is being constructed. All of these intricate pa.s.sages centre in the great temple, large and finely proportioned, but, like all Shinto buildings, comparatively simple as regards adornment. As we approached, we were confronted by at least twenty-five priests and ten dancing-girls, who were grouped together for a photograph; the priests'

robes and the many-colored dresses of the girls produced a striking effect, as they sat on a platform in front of the temple. Later the girls went through several of the so-called "holy dances"; we were not permitted to enter the temple.

Pa.s.sing through a long corridor, we next ascended a hill and visited the unique Temple of a Thousand Mats. This is grim with age but of immense proportions, and having many rows of columns, covered from base to capital with small wooden mats shaped somewhat like b.u.t.ter ladles, each one of which is inscribed with the name and residence of the donor; the ladles are on sale at the temple. Not only the pillars, but every available place in the temple, is thus utilized, producing a very grotesque effect. The plan consists in each person writing his name, residence, and some sentiment on these mats; it originated after the Chinese-j.a.panese war in 1894, when pilgrims came to visit the temple and thus paid tribute to it.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Torii Miyajima_]

Near the temple there is an imposing paG.o.da, also of ancient date, and on an adjacent knoll another shrine. Returning to the hotel, we noted many more stone lanterns, and still another temple with its attendant torii. We also pa.s.sed through the lane-like streets of the village, thickly lined with bazars; the shops were filled with many tasteful articles, carved wood being a specialty in Miyajima. These shops reminded us of Switzerland, as did the heights, a portion of which is covered with an attractive park.

After dinner, we regretfully bade adieu to the members of the Trans-Siberian party, leaving only Miss M---- and myself to return to Yokohama. To speed them across the lake, their guide had arranged for an illumination, produced by lighting candles in many of the tall stone lanterns; this we also enjoyed, our guide taking us out on the lake in a sampan; and as we rode toward the great torii it seemed to a.s.sume immense proportions, while the effect of the lanterns was magical. It was indeed a fairylike scene.

We were called at four the following morning, breakfasted at five, and were on our steamer before six for the trip to Onomichi on the Inland Sea. The island was lovely as we left in the early light; and the whole landscape, from the towering mountain in the distance, the lesser ones sloping down to the plateau, to the sea, scintillated in brilliant color; even the great stone lanterns that were so unique the evening previous now stood out in bold relief, and the old torii was statelier than ever. As the little village and sh.o.r.e line faded away, we wished an artist could have caught the view. We sailed out into the finest part of the Inland Sea, where the sh.o.r.e was deeply indented with rocky promontories, which first ended in a high projection to our right; to the left was a continuous line of low islands. A wide extent of open sea was the next scene in the panorama, to be succeeded by a picturesque island, clad in verdure; then two small, boldly defined, rocky islands; next a low range of five islands slightly connected, seeming like a tiny range in mid-ocean; a higher chain of islands was crenellated and presented the appearance of being scooped out and showing a light yellow soil. The scene now narrowed, and the mountains on either side showed signs of cultivation, the terraces running almost to the top. The guide told us that barley was the princ.i.p.al cereal raised. A marvellous island to our left now presented itself; this had a high, rocky base, from which seemingly sprang a miniature forest, the tall towering evergreens lending a fringelike appearance near the skyline. And so the panorama continued with ever-increasing variety.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Stone lanterns, Miyajima_]

We paused at Ujima, the port of Hiroshima, where perhaps is located the most wonderful garden in j.a.pan. Ujima is a place of twelve thousand inhabitants, and the taking on of cargo consumed an hour. Soon after, we came to an island which had been transformed into a magazine; the side presented to us was a solid wall of rock. This was the precursor to our arrival at Kore, the most important naval station in j.a.pan. The steamer touched anchor, which gave us an opportunity to note the many war-vessels in the harbor, three of which had been captured from the Russians.

Our next point for landing pa.s.sengers was Tukehare, in the narrowest part of the Inland Sea, with the Pa.s.s of Oudo in Sato-See. Here something unexpected occurred, as the steamer ran aground; and, after persistent efforts to effect our release, a naval craft came to our a.s.sistance and had to tow the steamer through.

The scene now widened so that the sh.o.r.e seemed distant; this gave leeway for shipping of various kinds, large and small, and at one time I counted forty-five craft around us. Small sampans with three or four sails predominated. Our interest now centred not so much on sh.o.r.e as on boldly defined islands that occasionally came into view. In another place there were five promontories apparently in a direct line,--the first, dark green; the next, pale green; the next, brown in tint; the next, rocky; the fifth, foliage,--a veritable poem in color. We stopped for pa.s.sengers three times before reaching our destination.

Our lovely trip on the Inland Sea ended at the little port of Onomichi, where, you will remember, we pa.s.sed the night at a j.a.panese inn. We left at once, and visited some of the temples for which Onomichi is famous.

We first went to a very old Buddhist place with an equally ancient paG.o.da, Sinkokuji; this was at quite a height above the street, and was in decay. Interest centred chiefly in the Senkiji Temple, rudely formed of huge blocks of granite which seem to spring from the soil; to reach this, we climbed a succession of tiers of stairs, each landing affording an extended view of the hamlet. The shrine and the details of this rock-bound temple were very simple, but there was a weird impressiveness about it.

At five we took the train for Kobe, arriving there at nine, this time staying at the Mikado Hotel. Having been there twice before, the visit was simply in order to break the trip to Yokohama; so a jinrikisha ride and a visit to a few shops the morning following sufficed in the sight-seeing line; and in the evening we took the night train for Yokohama, arriving there early on the morning of June 12th. Yokohama was to be our headquarters until the homeward sailing, June 29th.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Islands of the Inland Sea_]

I have before spoken of the beauty of the bay and the fine location of the city. The heights reminded me of Hong-Kong; but on this third visit the scene seemed to have gained new interest, for all Nature was in her Summer dress, and the streets and parks teemed with life. There were many jinrikisha rides and much general enjoyment during the two weeks and a half that followed. Yokohama is a modern city and not famed for sight-seeing particularly, aside from the shops, which are of great interest and are filled with beautiful things; the curios, silks, and embroideries were very enticing, and, as dressmaking can be done well and economically by many of the Chinese tailors, some time is devoted even by tourists to that.

Moto-machi Temple is of interest, heading the little shopping street of that name, which, with Benten-dori divides the interest as regards small but well-equipped native stores. The temple is Buddhist.

Nogeshima is a hill from which an extended view of the city and harbor may be enjoyed. With cherry blossoms in May, great fields of many-colored iris marked the month of June, and an expedition to such a field proved attractive. The ride around Mississippi Bay is possibly the greatest trip for an afternoon's excursion. A picturesque feature of the city is the one hundred steps leading to the heights, on the top of which is a tea-house, largely frequented by residents. The many pleasant homes and churches make the heights very attractive, and one morning we extended our jinrikisha ride to the outskirts so as to visit the gardens and greenhouses of a young j.a.panese who supplies the hotel with peculiar dwarfed plants for the dining-room tables. We saw some maples and cedars twelve inches in height and fifteen years old.

The park, attractive at any time, is especially interesting in May on account of the cherry blossoms. It must be remembered that Yokohama was only a fishing village when Commodore Perry anch.o.r.ed there in 1854; it was not the treaty port until 1858, and from that time begins its commercial importance. The greatest portion of the city as it now exists dates from after the fire of 1866, and the bluff on which most of the residents have their dwellings was first leased for building purposes in 1867; since then a large native town has sprung up outside the foreign settlement.

The princ.i.p.al excursion from Yokohama is to Kamakura, about one hour's ride by train. It was once the capital of j.a.pan, from the end of the twelfth to the fifteenth century, numbering over one million inhabitants; but it now affords no indication of its former glory; it is only a little seaside village to-day, and its princ.i.p.al interests are the great Dai-butzu, or Buddha, and certain other temples; the Buddha is renowned among j.a.panese works of art. We took a jinrikisha from the station, and first visited the Temple of Hachiman, which occupies a high position on a hill and is reached through an avenue of pine trees. We pa.s.sed through three stone toriis before reaching the temple, which stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Mississippi Bay_]

The perspective when approaching the gigantic Buddha is fine, and gives one, at a distance even, the impression of great majesty. This work dates from about 1252 A.D. It was originally enclosed in a building, fifty yards square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three ma.s.sive wooden pillars. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal waves, since which they have not been re-erected, and the image has therefore been exposed to the elements. Within the statue is a large room. As we approached the great bronze Buddha, we realized an indefinable, spiritual significance; it stands over forty-nine feet high and ninety-seven feet in circ.u.mference, but appears serene, seemingly in the attainment of absolute peace after having reached the Nirvana.

The Temple of Kwannon is not far from the Dai-butzu, on an eminence, commanding a beautiful view of the seash.o.r.e and the plain. We had luncheon at a pretty seaside hotel, Kamakura now being a Summer resort.

Afterwards we took a tram for the Sacred Island of Enoshima. Arriving at the village of Katse, we walked across to the island. Enoshima presents a high wooded aspect, and through the foliage on the heights one can obtain glimpses of many tea-houses. From the earliest ages the island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist G.o.ddess of love. Nearly all of the temples are dedicated to Shinto G.o.ddesses. The most sacred spot is a cave on the far side of the island, one hundred and twenty-four yards in depth, the height at the entrance being at least thirty feet.