The Voyage Of The Vega Round Asia And Europe Part 57

22). In 1752-53 the crew of a vessel belonging to the Irkutsk merchant, Nikifor Trapeznikoff, caught on Behring Island 5 sea-otters, 1,222 foxes (colour not stated), and 2,500 sea-bears (_loc. cit._ p. 32). It thus appears as if the eager hunting had an influence not only on the number of the animals but also on their colour, the variety in greatest demand becoming also _relatively_ less common than before. ]

[Footnote 363: From this little work, compiled from the original journals (Cf. c.o.xe, _Russian Discoveries_, 1780, p. vi.) we see that the undaunted courage and the resolution which, matched with other qualities not so praiseworthy, distinguished the _Promyschlenni_ during their expeditions of exploration, tribute-collecting, and plunder from the Ob to Kamchatka, did not fail them in the attempt to force their way across the sea to America. It happens yearly that a ship's crew save themselves from destruction in the most extraordinary craft, for necessity has no law. But it is perhaps not so common that an exploring expedition, wrecked on an uninhabited treeless island, builds for itself of fragments from its own vessel, indeed even of driftwood, a new one in order to sail out on the ocean to discover new fishing-grounds or new wild tribes, willing to pay "ja.s.sak" to the adventurers. This however happened very frequently during the Russian voyages of discovery and hunting to the Aleutian Islands from 1745 to 1770, and it was remarkable that the craft built in this way were used for years, even after the return from the first voyage. ]

[Footnote 364: The sea-cow does not appear to have ever occurred on the Aleutian Islands; on the other hand, according to Steller, dead sea-cows have sometimes been cast ash.o.r.e on Kamchatka, where they even obtained from the Russians a peculiar name _kapustnik_, derived from the large quant.i.ty of sea-weed found in their stomach. It appears to me that this name, specially distinctive of a graminivorous animal, appeals to indicate that on the first arrival of the Russians at Kamchatka the sea-cow actually visited occasionally the coasts of that peninsula. It is probable that in former times the sea-cow was to be met with as far south as the north part of j.a.pan. Some scientific men have even conjectured that the animal may have occurred north of Behring's Straits. This however is improbable. Among the ma.s.s of subfossil bones of marine animals which we examined at Pitlekaj the bones of the sea-cow did not appear to be present. ]

[Footnote 365: Von Baer's and Brandt's numerous writings on the sea-cow are to be found in the publications of the St. Petersburg Academy. ]

[Footnote 366: That the hide of the sea-cow was used for _baydars_ is evident from the short extract given from Korovin's voyage. On hearing this "creole's" account I inquired whether there were not to be found remaining on the island any very old sea-cow skins that had been used for _baydars_, but the answer unfortunately was in the negative. ]

[Footnote 367: The number of these animals killed on Behring Island is shown by the following statement given me by Mr. Henry. W.

Elliot:

In the Year In the Year In the Year 1867 27,500 1872 29,318 1877 21,532 1868 12,000 1873 30,396 1878 31,340 1869 24,000 1874 31,292 1879 42,752 1870 24,000 1875 36,274 1880 48,504 1871 3,614 1876 26,960

During the eighteen years from 1862 to 1880 there have thus been shipped from Behring Island 389,462 skins. The catch on the Pribylov Islands has been still larger. These islands were discovered in 1786, but the number of animals killed there is not known for the first ten years; it is only known that it was enormously large. In the years 1797-1880--that is in eighty-four years--over three-and-a-half millions of skins have been exported from these islands. In recent years the catch has increased so that in each of the years from 1872 to 1880, 99,000 animals might have been killed without inconvenience. ]

[Footnote 368: The traits here given of the sea-bear's mode of life are mainly taken from Henry W. Elliot's work quoted above. ]

[Footnote 369: Elliott (_loc. cit._ p. 150) remarks that not a single self-dead seal is to be found in the "rookery," where there are so many animals that they probably die of old age in thousands.

This may be explained by the seals, when they become sick, withdrawing to the sea, and forms another contribution to the question of the finding of self-dead animals to which I have already referred (vol. i. p. 322). ]

[Footnote 370: According to a statement by Mr. Giebnitski, tertiary fossils and coal seams are also to be found on Behring Island, the former north of the colony in the interior, the latter at the beach south of Behring's grave. Also in the neighbourhood of the colony the volcanic rock-ma.s.ses are under-stratified by thick sandy beds. ]

[Footnote 371: The first European who welcomed us after the completion of the North-east pa.s.sage was a Fin now settled in California, from Bjorkboda works in Kimito parish, in which I had lived a great deal when a youth. He was sent by the Alaska Company to do some work on Behring Island. As we steamed towards the colony he rowed to meet us, and saluted us with the cry "ar det Nordenskiold?" ("Is it Nordenskiold?") His name was Isak Andersson. ]

CHAPTER XVI.

Arrival at Yokohama--A Telegram sent to Europe--The stranding of the steamer _A.E. Nordenskiold_--_Fetes_ in j.a.pan-- The Minister of Marine, Kawamura--Prince Kito-Shira-Kava-- Audience of the Mikado--Graves of the Shoguns--Imperial Garden at Tokio--The Exhibition there--Visit to Enoshima-- j.a.panese manners and customs--Thunberg and Kampfer.

Yokohama, the first harbour, telegraph station, and commercial town at which the _Vega_ anch.o.r.ed after circ.u.mnavigating the north coast of Asia, is one of the j.a.panese coast cities which were opened to the commerce of the world after the treaty between the United States of America and j.a.pan negotiated by Commodore PERRY.[372] At this place there was formerly only a little fishing village, whose inhabitants had never seen Europeans and were forbidden under severe punishments from entering into communication or trading with the crews of the foreign vessels that might possibly visit the coast.

The former village is now, twenty years later, changed into a town of nearly 70,000 inhabitants, and consists not only of j.a.panese, but also of very fine European houses, shops, hotels, &c. It is also the residence of the governor of Kanagava _Ken_. It is in communication by rail with the neighbouring capital Tokio, by regular weekly steamship sailings with San Francisco on the one hand, and Hong Kong, India, &c., on the other, and finally by telegraph not only with the princ.i.p.al cities of j.a.pan but also with all the lands that have got entangled in the threads of the world's telegraph net.

The situation of the town on the western sh.o.r.e of the Yedo or Tokio Bay, which is perhaps rather large for a haven, is not particularly fine. But on sailing in we see in the west, if the weather be fine, Fusiyama's snow-clad, incomparably beautiful volcanic cone raise itself from a cultivated forest-clad region. When one has seen it, he is no longer astonished that the j.a.panese reproduce with such affection on their varnished wares, porcelain, cloth, paper, sword-ornaments, &c., the form of their highest, stateliest, and also grimmest mountain. For the number of the men who have perished by its eruptions is reckoned by hundreds of thousands, and if tradition speaks truth the whole mountain in a far distant antiquity was formed in a single night. Before we enter Yedo Bay we pa.s.s a volcano, active during last year, situated on the volcanic island Oshima, known in j.a.panese history as the place of exile of several of the heroes in the many internal struggles of the country.

While we sailed, or more correctly, steamed--for we had still sufficient coal remaining to permit the engine to be used--up the Bay of Yedo, the coasts were for the most part concealed with mist, so that the summit of Fusiyama and the contours of the sh.o.r.e only now and then gleamed forth from the fog and cloud. The wind besides was against us, on which account it was 9.30 in the evening of the 2nd September before we could anchor in the haven that had been longed-for for such a length of time. I immediately hastened on land, along with Captain Palander, in order to send home a telegram across Siberia about the fortunate issue of the voyage of the _Vega_. At the telegraph station I was informed that the Siberian line was interrupted by inundations for a s.p.a.ce of 600 versts, and that the telegram must therefore be sent by India, whereby the cost was nearly doubled. The telegraph officials also made difficulties about taking the foreign gold coin of various kinds which I had about me. Fortunately the latter difficulty was immediately removed by the accidental presence of the Russian consul, Mr. PELIKAN, while I was treating with the telegraph officials. When he heard that it concerned the sending home of a telegram from the much-talked-of _Vega_ expedition, he immediately offered to arrange the affair until I had time to operate on the letter of credit I carried with me from Messrs. James d.i.c.kson &c. Co. of Gothenburg. Soon after I met with the Swedish consul, Mr. VAN OORDT, who gave us a large parcel of letters from home. It was very gladly received by most of us, as, so far as I know, it did not bring the thirty members of the expedition a single unexpected sorrowful message. I got, however, soon after landing, an unpleasant piece of news, viz that the steamer _A.E. Nordenskiold_, which Mr. Sibiriakoff had sent to Behring's Straits and the Lena to our relief, had stranded on the east coast of Yesso. The shipwreck fortunately had not been attended with any loss of human life, and the vessel lay stranded on a sandbank in circ.u.mstances which made it probable that it would be got off without too great cost.

As the report of our arrival spread, I was immediately waited upon by various deputations with addresses of welcome, invitations to _fetes_, clubs, &c. A series of entertainments and festivities now began, which occupied a great part of the time we remained in this splendid and remarkable country. Perhaps a sketch of these festivities may yield a picture of j.a.pan during the state of transition, which still prevails there, and which in a decade or two will undoubtedly belong to a past and to a great extent forgotten period, a picture which to future writers may possibly form a not unwelcome contribution to the knowledge of the j.a.pan that now (1879) is. Such a sketch would however carry me too far beyond the subject of this narrative of travel, and require too much s.p.a.ce, on which account I must confine myself to an enumeration of the festivities at the head of which were public authorities, learned societies, or clubs.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FUSIYAMA. ]

On the 10th September a grand dinner was given at the Grand Hotel, the princ.i.p.al European hotel--and very well kept--of Yokohama, by the Dutch minister, Chevalier VAN STOETWEGEN, who at the same time represents Sweden and Norway in j.a.pan.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE STEAMER "A.E. NORDENSKIoLD," STRANDED ON THE EAST COAST OF YEZO. (After a j.a.panese photograph.) ]

The members of the Expedition were here introduced to several members of the j.a.panese Government.

[Ill.u.s.tration: KAWAMURA SUMIYOSHI. j.a.panese Minister of Marine. ]

We were invited to a _dejeuner a la fourchette_, at one o'clock P.M.

on the 11th September, at the Imperial summer palace Hamagoten, by Admiral KAWAMURA, minister of marine. At this entertainment there were present, besides the scientific men and officers of the _Vega_, and our minister, Herr van Stoetwegen, several of the ministers and highest officials of j.a.pan. Some of them spoke one or other of the European languages, others only j.a.panese, in which case officials of lower rank acted as interpreter these however taking no part in the entertainment along with the other guests. It was arranged after the European pattern, with abundance of dishes and wines. The palace consisted of a one-stoned wooden house in the j.a.panese style of construction. The rooms, to which we were admitted, were provided with European furniture, much the same as we would expect to find in the summer residence of a well-to-do family in Sweden. It was remarkable that the j.a.panese did not take the trouble to ornament the loom or the table to any considerable extent with the beautiful native bronzes or porcelain, of which there is such abundance in the country. The summer palace was surrounded by a garden which the j.a.panese consider something very extraordinary, and also on a very large scale. We should call it a small, well and originally kept miniature park, with carefully dressed turf, wonderful dwarf trees, miniature stone bridges, small ponds and waterfalls. The entertainment was very pleasant, and all, from our intelligent host to the Premier, Daiyo-daiyin, and the Imperial Prince, SANYO SANITOMI, showed us much friendliness. The latter looked a sickly young man, some years past twenty. He was, however, much older, and had taken a leading part in the most important political transactions since the opening of the ports. Our host, Admiral Kawamura, had more the appearance of a man of science than of a warrior. The modest exterior, however, concealed a great and n.o.ble man. For Kawamura, as commander of the Mikado's troops, had with special distinction brought about the suppression of the revolt under the brave Saigo Kichinosuke, who had at the restoration of the power of the Mikado been its heart and sword, but soon after fell before the government he himself contributed to create, and is now, a couple of years after, admired and sung by former friends and by former enemies as a national hero. All the j.a.panese present at the _dejeuner_ were clad in European dress--in black dress coat and white tie. Even the interpreters and attendants wore the European dress. The people, the lower officials, and the servants in private houses are still clothed in the j.a.panese dress, but do not wear a sword, which is now prohibited. Many of the people have even exchanged the old troublesome j.a.panese dressing of the hair for the convenient European style.

In the course of conversation after the _dejeuner_ the ministers offered to do all they could to make our stay in the country agreeable and instructive. Distinguished foreigners are always well received in j.a.pan, and we are informed that a special committee is appointed to make arrangements for their reception. This has given offence in certain quarters, and shortly before our arrival a proclamation was issued by a secret society, which threatened, if no change were made, to kill one of the ministers and one of the foreigners who were entertained in this, in the opinion of the secret society, extravagant way. One of my j.a.panese friends promised me a copy of the proclamation, but did not keep his promise, probably because it was impossible for the uninitiated to get hold of the dangerous writing.

On the 13th September a grand dinner was arranged for us by the German Club, the photographer ANDERSEN being chairman. The hall was adorned in a festive manner with flags, and with representations of the _Vega_ in various more or less dangerous positions among the ice, which had been got up for the occasion, the bill of fare had reference to the circ.u.mstances of our wintering, &c. A number of speeches were made, the feeling was cheerful and merry.

On the 15th September there was a grand entertainment in Tokio, given by the Tokio Geographical Society, the Asiatic Society of j.a.pan, and the German Asiatic Society. It was held in the great hall in Koku-Dai-Gaku, a large stone building surrounded with beautiful trees, which were lighted up for the occasion by a number of variegated paper lanterns.

Several j.a.panese ladies dressed in European style took part in the entertainment. I sat by the side of the chairman, Prince KITA-SHIRA-KAVA, a young member of the imperial house, who had served some time in the German army and speaks German very well. During the disturbances which were caused by the removal of the residence from Kioto to Yedo (Tokio), a group of insurgents had seized the prince, then a minor, who under the name of RINNOJINO-MIYA was chief priest in a temple, and endeavoured to set him up in opposition to the Emperor. The plan failed, and in consequence of the reconciliation at the end of the conflict, which distinguished in so honourable a way the many involved and b.l.o.o.d.y political struggles in j.a.pan during recent years, this adventure was attended with no other insult for him than that the former chief priest was sent to a German military school. He was recalled sooner than was intended because he wished to marry a European, which was considered below the dignity of the family of the Mikado. After his return he was declared nearest heir to the throne, in case the Mikado should die without male heirs, and his name, KITA-SHIRA-KAVA-NO-MIYA, was changed a second time to YOHI HISHA. The former name was at the bottom of the speech he made for us at the dinner, and which he gave me, and the latter, with the addition, "Prince of j.a.pan," was on his calling card. The dinner was quite European, with a large number of speeches, princ.i.p.ally in European languages, but also in j.a.panese. Before every guest lay a map, of the form of a fan, with the course of the _Vega_ marked upon it. As a memorial of the feast I received some days after a large medal in silver inlaid in gold, of which a drawing is given on pages 306, 307. We were conveyed back to the Tokio railway station in European equipages, in the same way as we had been brought to the dinner. During dinner musicians from the band of the imperial navy played European pieces of music with great skill, to the evident satisfaction of the j.a.panese.

On the forenoon of the 17th September we were presented at the court of the Mikado in Tokio by the Swedish-Dutch minister. We were fetched from the railway station by imperial equipages, consisting of simple but ornamental and convenient _suflett_ carriages, each drawn by a pair of beautiful black horses of no great size. As is common in j.a.pan, a running groom, clad in black, accompanied each carriage. The reception took place in the imperial palace, a very modest wooden building. The rooms we saw were furnished, almost poorly, in European fashion. We first a.s.sembled in an antechamber, the only remarkable ornament of which was a large piece of nephrite, which was a little carved and had a Chinese inscription on it. Here we were met by some of the ministers and the interpreter. After a short conversation, in the course of which the interpreter got a sight of the written speech, or more correctly the words of salutation, I was to speak, we were conducted into an inner apartment where the Emperor, clad in a uniform of European style and standing in front of a throne, received us. The only thing unusual at our reception was that we were requested at our departure not to turn our backs to the Emperor, and on entering and departing to make three bows, one at the door, another when we had come forward a little on the floor, and one at the place where we were to stand.

After we had been presented the Emperor read a speech in j.a.panese, which was translated into French by the interpreter, and of which, before we left the place, a beautiful copy was given me, I then read my salutation, on which our minister, van Stoetwegen, said a few words, and got some words in reply. After leaving the imperial chamber, we were entertained in the anteroom with j.a.panese tea and cigars. The two princes who had taken part in the entertainment of the 15th came and talked a little with us, as did the minister of foreign affairs. The Emperor MUTSUHITO, in whose name reforms have been carried out in j.a.pan to an extent to which history can scarcely show anything equal, was born the 3rd November, 1850. He is considered the 121st Mikado of the race of Jimmu Tenno, the members of which have reigned uninterruptedly in j.a.pan for nearly two thousand years, with varying fates and with varying power--now as wise lawgivers and mighty warriors, now for long periods as weak and effeminate rulers, emperors only in seeming, to whom almost divine homage was paid, but who were carefully freed from the burden of government and from all actual power. In comparison with this race, whose first ancestor lived during the first century after the foundation of Rome, all the royal houses now reigning in Europe are children of yesterday. Its present representative does not look to be very strong. During the whole audience he stood so motionless that he might have been taken for a wax figure, if he had not himself read his speech. Prince Kita-Shira-Kava has the appearance of a young lieutenant of hussars. Most of the ministers have sharply marked features,[373] which remind one of the many furious storms they have survived, and the many personal dangers to which they have been exposed, partly in honourable conflict, partly through murderers' plots. For, unfortunately, a political murder is not yet considered in j.a.pan an infamous crime, but the murderer openly acknowledges his deed and takes the consequences. Repeated murderous attempts have been made against the men of the new time. In order to protect themselves from these, ministers, when they go out, generally have their carriages surrounded by an armed guard on horseback.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE FIRST MEDAL WHICH WAS STRUCK AS A MEMORIAL OF THE VOYAGE OF THE "VEGA." Size of the original. ]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE FIRST MEDAL WHICH WAS STRUCK AS A MEMORIAL OF THE VOYAGE OF THE "VEGA." Size of the original. ]

On the 18th September several of the members of the _Vega_ expedition were invited to a _dejeuner a la fourchette_ by Admiral Kawamura, minister of marine. This entertainment had an interest for us because we were here for the first time received into a j.a.panese home. I sat at table by the side of Lady Kawamura. Even the children were present at the entertainment. Lady Kawamura was dressed in the j.a.panese fashion, tastefully but very plainly, if we except a heavy gold chain encircling the waist. In other respects the entertainment was arranged according to the European mode, with a succession of dishes and wines, both in abundance, according to the laws of gastronomy. When it was over our host offered us an airing in a carriage, during which I rode with the lady and one of the children, a little girl about ten years of age, who would have been very beautiful if she had not been disfigured, in the eyes of Europeans, by the thick white paint that was evenly spread over her whole face, and gave it a sickly appearance. Lady Kawamura herself was not painted, nor was she disfigured with blackened teeth. Most of the married women of j.a.pan are accustomed after marriage to blacken their formerly dazzlingly white teeth, but it is to be hoped that this unpleasant custom will soon disappear, as the women of distinction have begun to abandon it. During this excursion we visited, among other places, the graves of the Tyc.o.o.ns, the imperial garden, and a very remarkable exhibition in the capital.

A number of the Tyc.o.o.ns, or, as they are more correctly called, Shoguns, are buried in Tokio. Their place of sepulture is one of the most remarkable memorials of Old j.a.pan. The graves are in a temple which is divided into several courts, surrounded by walls and connected with each other by beautiful gates. The first of these courts is ornamented with more than two hundred stone lanterns, presented to the temple by the feudal princes of the country, the name of the giver and the date at which it was given being inscribed on each. Some of these peculiar memorials are only half-finished, perhaps an evidence of the sudden close of the power of the Shoguns and the feudal princes in j.a.pan. In another of the temple courts are to be seen lanterns of bronze, partly gilt, presented by other feudal princes. A third court is occupied by a temple, a splendid memorial of the old j.a.panese architecture, and of the antique method of adorning their sanctuaries with wooden carvings, gilding, and varnishing. The temple abounds in old book-rolls, bells, drums, beautiful old lacquered articles, &c. The graves themselves lie within a separate enclosure.

The common j.a.panese gardens are not beautiful according to European taste. They are often so small that they might without inconvenience, with trees, grottos, and waterfalls, be accommodated in a small State's department in one of the crystal palaces of the international exhibitions. All, pa.s.sages, rocks, trees, ponds, yea, even the fishes in the dams, are artificial or artificially changed. The trees are, by a special art which has been very highly developed in j.a.pan, forced to a.s.sume the nature of dwarfs, and are besides so pruned that the whole plant has the appearance of a dry stem on which some green clumps have been hung up here and there. The form of the gold fish swimming in the ponds has also been changed, so that they have often two or four tail-fins each, and a number of growths not known in their natural state. On the walks thick layers of pebbles are placed to keep the feet from being dirtied, and at the doors of dwelling-houses there is nearly always a block of granite with a cauldron-like depression excavated in it, which is kept filled with clean water. Upon this stone cauldron is placed a simple but clean wooden scoop, with which one can take water out of the vessel to wash himself with.

The imperial garden in Tokio is distinguished from these miniature gardens by its greater extent, and by the trees, at least at most places, bearing fruit. There is here a veritable park, with uncommonly large, splendid, and luxuriantly-growing trees.

[Ill.u.s.tration: STONE LANTERN AND STONE MONUMENT. In a j.a.panese Temple Court. ]

The public is generally excluded from the garden. At our visit we were entertained in one of the imperial summer-houses with j.a.panese tea, sweetmeats, and cigars.

Last of all we visited the Exhibition. It had been closed for some time back on account of cholera. We saw here a number of beautiful specimens of j.a.panese art, from the flint tools and pottery of the Stone Age to the silks, porcelain, and bronzes of the present. In no country is there at this day such a love for exhibitions as in j.a.pan. There are small exhibitions in most of the large towns. Many were exceedingly instructive; in all there were to be seen beautiful lacquered wares, porcelain, swords, silk, cloths, &c. In one I saw a collection of the birds and fishes of j.a.pan, in another I discovered some vegetable impressions, by means of which I became acquainted with the remarkable locality for fossil plants at Mogi, of which I shall give an account farther on.

[Ill.u.s.tration: j.a.pANESE HOUSE IN TOKIO. ]

On the evening of the 18th September I was invited by the Danish consul, Herr BAVIER, to a boat excursion up the river which debouches at Tokio. At its mouth it is very broad and deep, and it branches somewhat farther up into several streams which are navigable by the shallow boats of the j.a.panese. With the present limited development of roads and railways in j.a.pan, this river and its tributaries form the most important channels of communication between the capital and the interior of the country. During our row we constantly met with boats laden with provisions on their way to, or with goods on their way from, the town. The pleasant impression of these and of the remarkable environs of the river is sometimes disturbed by a bad odour coming from a pa.s.sing boat, and reminding us of the care with which the j.a.panese remove human excreta, the most important manure of their well-cultivated land. Along the banks of the river there are numerous restaurants and tea-houses. At long intervals we see a garden on the banks, which has belonged to some of the former Daimio palaces. The restaurants and tea-houses are generally intended only for the j.a.panese; and Europeans, although they pay many times more than the natives, are not admitted. The reason of this is to be found in our manners, which are coa.r.s.e and uncultivated in the eyes of the natives. "The European walks with his dirty boots on the carpets, spits on the floor, is uncivil to the girls, &c." Thanks to the letters of introduction from natives acquainted with the restaurant-keepers, I have been admitted to their exclusive places, and it must be admitted that everything there was so clean, neat, and orderly, that even the best European restaurants cannot compare with them. When a visitor enters a j.a.panese restaurant which is intended exclusively for the j.a.panese, he must always take off his boots at the stair else he gets immediately into disfavour. He is received with bended knee by the host and all the attendants, male, but princ.i.p.ally female, and then he is almost always surrounded by a number of young girls constantly laughing and chattering. These girls have commonly sold themselves to the restaurant-keeper for a certain time, during which they carry on a life which, according to European standards of morality, is not very commendable. When the time fixed in the agreement has pa.s.sed, they return to their homes and marry, without having sunk in any way in the estimation of their relatives. But those are unfortunate who, in any of the towns that are not yet opened to foreigners, carry on a love intrigue with a European. They are then openly pointed out, even in the newspapers, as immoral, and their respectability is helplessly gone. Formerly they were even in such cases severely punished.

[Ill.u.s.tration: j.a.pANESE LADY AT HER TOILETTE. ]

All women of the lower cla.s.ses, and even most of the higher, wear the j.a.panese dress. The more distinguished ladies are often exceedingly beautiful, they have in particular beautiful necks.

Unfortunately they are often disfigured by paint, for which the ladies here appear to have a strong liking. The dress of the younger women, even among the poor, is carefully attended to; it is not showy but tasteful, and nearly the same for all cla.s.ses. Their manners are very attractive and agreeable. The women of the upper cla.s.ses already begin to take part in the social life of the Europeans, and all European gentlemen and ladies with whom I have conversed on this point agree in stating that there is no difficulty in the way of a j.a.panese woman leaving the narrow circle to which she was formerly confined, and entering with pleasure and womanly dignity into European society. She appears to be born "a lady."

On the 20th and 21st September the Governor of Yokohama had arranged an excursion for me, Dr. Stuxberg, and Lieut. Nordquist, to the sacred island or peninsula Enoshima, situated at a short distance from the town. We first travelled some English miles along the excellent road Tokaido, one of the few highways in j.a.pan pa.s.sable in carriages. Then we travelled in _jinrikishas_ to the famous image of Buddha (Daibutsu) at Kamakura[374], and visited the Shinto chief priest living in the neighbourhood and his temple.

The priest was fond of antiquities, and had a collection, not very large indeed, but composed almost entirely of rarities. Among other things he showed us sabres of great value, a head ornament consisting of a single piece of nephrite which he valued at 500 _yen_,[373] a number of old bronzes, mirrors, &c. We were received as usual with j.a.panese tea and sweetmeats. The priest himself took us round his temple. No images were to be seen here, but the walls were richly carved and ornamented with a number of drawings and gildings. The innermost wall of the temple was fenced by heavy doors provided with secure locks and bolts, within which "the divine spirit dwelt," or within which "there was nothing else," as the priest phrased it on another occasion.

Enoshima is a little rocky peninsula, which is connected with the mainland by a low, sandy neck of land. Occasionally this neck of land has been broken through or overflowed, and the peninsula has then been converted into an island. It is considered sacred, and is studded with Shinto temples. On the side of the peninsula next the mainland there is a little village, consisting of inns, tea-houses, and shops for pilgrims' and tourists' articles, among which are beautiful sh.e.l.ls, and the fine siliceous skeleton of a sponge, _Hyalonema mirabilis_, Gray. Here I lived for the first time in a j.a.panese inn of the sort to which Europeans in ordinary circ.u.mstances are not admitted. I was accompanied by two officials from the governor's court at Yokohama, and it was on their a.s.surance that I did not belong to the common sort of uncultivated and arrogant foreigners that the host made no difficulty in receiving us.