The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism Volume III Part 16

Whenever it was possible to employ or amuse the men among these dreary scenes M'Clintock was most desirous that it should be done. Dr. Walker's school was a genuine success, and the rather old school-boys most diligent in their studies, which were at first confined to the three R's-reading, 'riting, and 'rithmetic. Later, however, lectures and readings were organised, and subjects adapted to interest the crew, such as the trade winds, the atmosphere, the uses of the thermometer, barometer, and so forth, were chosen. Healthful exercise was afforded to the men in banking up the ship with snow. On November 5th, says M'Clintock, "in order to vary our monotonous routine, we determined to celebrate the day." Extra grog was issued, and one of Lady Franklin's thoughtful presents, in the shape of preserved plum-pudding, helped to mark the occasion. In the evening a procession was organised, and the crew sallied forth, with drum, gong, and discord, to burn a huge effigy of Guy Fawkes upon the ice. "Their blackened faces, extravagant costumes, glaring torches, and savage yells, frightened away all the dogs; nor was it till after the fireworks were let off and the traitor consumed that they crept back again. It was school-night, but the men were up for fun, so gave the Doctor a holiday."

[Ill.u.s.tration: ESQUIMAUX CATCHING SEALS.]

On November 15th Captain Young shot the fiftieth seal, an event which was celebrated by the drinking of _the_ bottle of champagne which had been reserved for the occasion of reaching the North Water-an unhappy failure, the more keenly felt from being so very unexpected. On November 16th "Petersen saw and fired a shot into a narwhal which brought the blubber out. When most Arctic creatures are wounded in the water, blubber more frequently appears than blood, particularly if the wound is superficial; it spreads over the surface of the water like oil. Bills of fare vary much in Greenland. I have inquired of Petersen, and he tells me that the Greenland Esquimaux (there are many Greenlanders of Danish origin) are not agreed as to which of their animals affords the most delicious food; some of them prefer reindeer venison, others think more favourably of young dog, the flesh of which, he a.s.serts, is 'just like the beef of sheep.' He says a Danish captain, who had acquired the taste, provided some for his guests, and they praised his _mutton_! After dinner he sent for the skin of the animal, which was no other than a large red dog! This occurred in Greenland, where his Danish guests had resided for many years, far removed from European _mutton_. Baked puppy is a real delicacy all over Polynesia; at the Sandwich Islands I was once invited to a feast, and had to feign disappointment as well as I could when told that puppy was so extremely scarce it could not be procured in time, and therefore sucking-pig was subst.i.tuted!"

On December 2nd an event occurred which cast a gloom over the little party. One of the engineers, Mr. Scott, had fallen down a hatchway, and died shortly afterwards from the effect of internal injuries then received. "A funeral at sea," says M'Clintock, "is always peculiarly impressive; but this evening, at seven o'clock, as we gathered around the sad remains of poor Scott, reposing under a Union Jack, and read the Burial Service by the light of lanterns, the effect could not fail to awaken very serious emotions.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A NATURAL ARCH IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS.]

"The greater part of the Church Service was read on board, under shelter of the housing; the body was then placed upon a sledge, and drawn by the messmates of the deceased to a short distance from the ship, where a hole through the ice had been cut; it was then 'committed to the deep,' and the service completed. What a scene it was! I shall never forget it. The lonely _Fox_, almost buried in snow, completely isolated from the habitable world, her colours half-mast high, and bell mournfully tolling; our little procession slowly marching over the rough surface of the frozen sea, guided by lanterns and direction-posts, amid the dark and dreary depth of Arctic winter; the death-like stillness, the intense cold, and threatening aspect of a murky overcast sky; and all this heightened by one of those strange lunar phenomena which are but seldom seen even here-a complete halo encircling the moon, through which pa.s.sed a horizontal band of pale light that encompa.s.sed the heavens; above the moon appeared the segments of two other halos, and there were also mock moons, to the number of six. The misty atmosphere lent a very ghastly hue to this singular display, which lasted for rather more than an hour.

"27th. Our Christmas was a very cheerful, merry one. The men were supplied with several additional articles, such as hams, plum-puddings, preserved gooseberries and apples, nuts, sweetmeats, and Burton ale. After Divine Service they decorated the lower deck with flags, and made an immense display of food. The officers came down with me to see their preparations.

We were really astonished! Their mess-tables were laid out like the counters in a confectioner's shop, with apple and gooseberry tarts, plum and sponge cakes in pyramids, besides various other unknown puffs, cakes, and loaves of all sizes and shapes. We bake all our own bread, and excellent it is. In the background were nicely-browned hams, meat-pies, cheeses, and other substantial articles. Rum-and-water in wine-gla.s.ses and plum cake were handed to us. We wished them a happy Christmas, and complimented them on their taste and spirit in getting up such a display.

Our silken sledge-banners had been borrowed for the occasion, and were regarded with deference and peculiar pride.

"In the evening the officers were enticed down amongst the men again, and at a late hour I was requested, as a great favour, to come down and see how much they were enjoying themselves. I found them in the highest good-humour with themselves and all the world. They were perfectly sober, and singing songs, each in his turn. I expressed great satisfaction at having seen them enjoying themselves so much and so rationally; I could therefore the better describe it to Lady Franklin, who was deeply interested in everything relating to them. I drank their healths, and hoped our position next year would be more suitable for our purpose. We all joined in drinking the healths of Lady Franklin and Miss Cracroft, and amid the acclamations which followed I returned to my cabin, immensely gratified by such an exhibition of genuine good-feeling, such veneration for Lady Franklin, and such loyalty to the cause of the expedition. It was very pleasant also that they had taken the most cheering view of our future prospects. I verily believe I was the happiest individual on board that happy evening." New Year's Day was a second edition of Christmas. At midnight on December 31st the arrival of 1858 was announced by the band, consisting of two flutes and an accordion, striking up at the cabin door.

It was accompanied by _other_ music from frying-pans, gridirons, kettles, pots, and pans, in the hands of the crew, who were determined to have as much fun as possible under the circ.u.mstances.

The monotonous winter pa.s.sed on, and still the _Fox_ remained enclosed in the pack, although occasional disruptions of the ice occurred, some of them of an alarming nature. The field one day cracked within ten yards of the ship, and on another occasion M'Clintock, returning from a visit to an iceberg, was cut off close to the vessel by the sudden opening of a long streak of water, and had to run a considerable distance before he found a crossing place, where the jagged edges of the floe met. The little yacht bore out bravely, although one day hurled up at bows and the next at stern. Strong gales now and again blew furiously, and drifting, whirling snow prevented them from seeing or hearing a few yards off. On March 25th, with a strong north-west wind blowing, the ship rocked in the ice and rubbed against it, straining and groaning in a manner which caused some alarm. The boats, provisions, sledges, knapsacks, and other equipments, were kept ready for a hasty departure. As long as their friendly barrier lasted there was little cause for fear; but who could tell the moment when it might be demolished, and the ship crack like a nutsh.e.l.l among the grinding, crashing ice ma.s.ses? On the 27th and 28th strong gales broke up the ice to some extent, and in two days the _Fox_ drifted thirty-nine miles. But the story would be as monotonous in the telling as was their life in reality were we to detail it day by day. Suffice it to say, on April 24th, after they had drifted 1,385 miles, the vessel, although not by any means clear of the ice, which was dashed against it by the swell, and which often choked their screw and brought the engines to a dead stop, was out of imminent danger. Their escape had been little short of miraculous, and a sailing vessel, however strong, would probably never have so successfully braved the dangers of the pack as did the little steam-yacht _Fox_. Its commander writes feelingly on the 26th:-"At sea!

How am I to describe the events of the last two days? It has pleased G.o.d to accord to us a deliverance in which His merciful protection contrasts-how strongly!-with our own utter helplessness; as if the successive mercies vouchsafed to us during our long winter and mysterious ice-drift had been concentrated and repeated in a single act. Thus forcibly does His great goodness come home to the mind!" Their troubles, anxieties, and doubts, were over, and two days later they were safely anch.o.r.ed off Holsteinborg, enjoying the hospitalities of the Danes.

M'Clintock refers, _apropos_ of his own experience, to a whaler, whose vessel, nipped in the ice, was lost in little less time than it takes to tell the story. "It was a beautiful morning; they had almost reached the North Water, and were antic.i.p.ating a very successful voyage; the steward had just reported breakfast ready, when Captain Deuchars, seeing the floes closing together ahead of the ship, remained on deck to see her pa.s.s safely between them. But they closed too quickly; the vessel was _almost_ through when the points of ice caught her sides, abreast of the mizen-mast, and, pa.s.sing through, held the wreck up for a few minutes, barely long enough for the crew to escape and save their boats! Poor Deuchars thus suddenly lost his breakfast and his ship; within _ten minutes_ her royal yards disappeared beneath the surface." The vessel was a strong one, supposed to be exactly adapted for whaling, but the powerful nip she received was too much for her. The _Fox_, in spite of her long imprisonment, was far more fortunate.

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE LAST TRACES.

M'Clintock's Summer Explorations-The Second Winter-Sledging Parties-Snow Huts-Near the Magnetic Pole-Meeting with Esquimaux-Franklin Relics obtained-Objection of Esquimaux to Speak of the Dead-Hobson's Discovery of the Franklin Records-Fate of the _Erebus_ and _Terror_-Large Quant.i.ty of Relics Purchased from the Natives-The Skeleton on the Beach-Fate of Crozier's Party-"As they Fell they Died"-The Record at Point Victory-Boat with Human Remains Discovered-The Wrecks never Seen-Return of the _Fox_.

During the summer of 1858 M'Clintock made several detailed examinations of Eclipse Sound, Pond's Bay, Peel Strait, Regent's Inlet, and Bellot Strait, without discovering the faintest trace of the lost party. The _Fox_ was again to winter in the Arctic-this time, however, under favourable circ.u.mstances-Port Kennedy, a harbour of Bellot Strait, being selected.

The early winter of 1858-9 pa.s.sed away without any occurrences of great importance, the ship being safely placed and the crew still well provisioned. One important member of the expedition, Mr. Brand, the chief engineer, died of apoplexy on November 7th, and, in consequence, M'Clintock himself had, at a later period, not merely to navigate the vessel, but to manage the engines.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CAPTAIN (AFTERWARDS SIR LEOPOLD) M'CLINTOCK.]

Again their Christmas was spent in the happiest manner, and, says M'Clintock, "with a degree of loyalty to the good old English custom at once spirited and refreshing. All the good things which could possibly be collected together appeared upon the snow-white deal tables of the men as the officers and myself walked, by invitation, round the lower deck.

Venison, beer, and a fresh supply of clay pipes, appeared to be the most prized luxuries; but the abundance and variety of the eatables, tastefully laid out, were such as well might support the delusion which all seemed desirous of imposing upon themselves-that they were in a land of plenty-in fact, _all but_ at home! We contributed a large cheese and some preserves, and candles superseded the ordinary smoky lamps. With so many comforts, and the existence of so much genuine good feeling, their evening was a joyous one, enlivened also by songs and music." Without, the scene was widely different. A fierce nor'-wester howled through the rigging, the snow-drift rustled swiftly past, no star appeared through the oppressive gloom, and the thermometer varied between 76 and 80 _below the freezing_ point. At one time it was impossible to visit the magnetic observatory, although only 210 yards distant, and with a rope stretched along, breast high, upon poles the whole way. After making all proper arrangements, M'Clintock and Young started out on February 17th, in different directions, with sledges and searching parties. The cold was intense: on the 18th the thermometer registered 48 (80 below freezing); and even the poor dogs felt the effects, their feet becoming lame and sore in consequence of the hardness of the snow.

[Ill.u.s.tration: AN ESQUIMAUX SLEDGE AND TEAM OF DOGS.]

We are now approaching the _denoument_-the climax of the painful story which tells us of the sad fate of two whole ships' companies amid the perils and horror of the frozen seas. We cannot do better than present the narrative for the most part in the graphic words of M'Clintock. "On the 1st of March," he writes, "we halted to encamp at about the position of the Magnetic Pole, for no cairn remains to mark the spot. I had almost concluded that my journey would prove to be a work of labour in vain, because hitherto no traces of Esquimaux had been met with, and in consequence of the reduced state of our provisions and the wretched condition of the poor dogs-six out of the fifteen being quite useless-I could only advance one more march.

"But we had done nothing more than look _ahead_; when we halted and turned round, great indeed was my surprise and joy to see four men walking after us. Petersen and I immediately buckled on our revolvers, and advanced to meet them. The natives halted, made fast their dogs, laid down their spears, and received us without any evidence of surprise....

"We gave them to understand that we were anxious to barter with them, and very cautiously approached the real object of our visit. A naval b.u.t.ton upon one of their dresses afforded the opportunity; it came, they said, from some white people who were starved upon an island where there are salmon (that is, in a river), and that the iron of which their knives were made came from the same place. One of these men said he had been to the island to obtain wood and iron, but none of them had seen the white men.

Another man had been to 'Ei-wil-lik' (Repulse Bay), and counted on his fingers seven individuals of Rae's party whom he remembered having seen....

"Despite the gale which howled outside, we spent a comfortable night in our roomy hut.

"Next morning the entire village population arrived, amounting to about forty-five souls, from aged people to infants in arms, and bartering commenced very briskly. First of all we purchased all the relics of the lost expedition, consisting of six silver spoons and forks, a silver medal the property of Mr. A. McDonald, a.s.sistant surgeon, part of a gold chain, several b.u.t.tons, and knives made of the iron and wood of the wreck; also bows and arrows constructed of materials obtained from the same source.

Having secured these, we purchased a few frozen salmon, some seal's blubber, and venison, but could not prevail upon them to part with more than one of their fine dogs. One of their sledges was made of two stout pieces of wood, which might have been a boat's keel.

"All the old people recollected the visit of the _Victory_. An old man told me his name was 'Ooblooria.' I recollected that Sir James Ross had employed a man of that name as a guide, and reminded him of it; he was, in fact, the same individual, and he inquired after Sir James by his Esquimaux name of 'Agglugga.'

"I inquired after the man who was furnished with a wooden leg by the carpenter of the _Victory_; no direct answer was given, but his daughter was pointed out to me. Petersen explained to me that they do not like alluding in any way to the dead, and that, as my question was not answered, it was certain the man was no longer amongst the living."

M'Clintock returned to the _Fox_, having travelled 420 miles in their twenty-five days' absence, and having also completed the survey of the coast line of continental America, thereby adding about 120 miles to our charts. On reaching the ship the crew was at once a.s.sembled, and the information obtained laid before the men, M'Clintock pointing out that one of the ships still remained unaccounted for, and that they must carry out to the full all the projected lines of search.

After several sledge journeys to the various depots previously made, to collect provisions deposited there, the search was resumed, M'Clintock and Hobson leading two parties in different directions.

On their return M'Clintock writes as follows, under date of June 24th:-"I have visited Montreal Island, completed the exploration and circuit of King William's Island, pa.s.sing on foot through the only feasible North-west Pa.s.sage; but all this is as nothing to the interest attached to the _Franklin records_ picked up by Hobson, and now safe in my possession.

We now know the fate of the _Erebus_ and _Terror_. The sole object of our voyage has at length been completed, and we anxiously await the time when escape from these bleak regions will become practicable."

On April 20th two families of the same people previously encountered at Cape Victoria were found in their snow huts upon the ice. M'Clintock says:-"After much anxious inquiry we learned that two ships had been seen by the natives of King William's Island: one of them was seen to sink in deep water, and nothing was obtained from her, a circ.u.mstance at which they expressed much regret; but the other was forced on sh.o.r.e by the ice, where they suppose she still remains, but is much broken. From this ship they have obtained most of their wood, &c., and Oot-loo-lik is the name of the place where she grounded.

"Formerly many natives lived there, now very few remain. All the natives have obtained plenty of wood.

"The most of this information was given us by the young man who sold the knife. Old Oo-na-lee, who drew the rough chart for me in March to show where the ship sank, now answered our questions respecting the one forced on sh.o.r.e; not a syllable about her did he mention on the former occasion, although we asked whether they knew of only one ship. I think he would willingly have kept us in ignorance of a wreck being upon their coasts, and that the young man unwittingly made it known to us.

"The latter also told us that the body of a man was found on board the ship; that he must have been a very large man, and had long teeth: this is all he recollected having been told, for he was quite a child at the time.

"They both told us it was in the fall of the year-that is, August or September-when the ships were destroyed; that all the white people went away to the 'large river,' taking a boat or boats with them, and that in the following winter their bones were found there."(38)

On May 7th, to avoid snow-blindness, the party commenced night marching.

Crossing over from Matty Island towards the King William's Island sh.o.r.e, they continued their march southward until midnight, when they had the good fortune to arrive at an inhabited snow village. They halted at a little distance, and pitched their tent, the better to secure small articles from being stolen whilst they bartered with them. M'Clintock purchased from them six pieces of silver plate bearing the crests or initials of Franklin, Crozier, Fairholme, and McDonald; they also sold them bows and arrows of English woods, uniform and other b.u.t.tons, and offered a heavy sledge made of two short stout pieces of curved wood, which no mere boat could have furnished them with; but this, of course, could not be taken away; the silver spoons and forks were readily sold for four needles each. The narrative continues:-

"Having obtained all the relics they possessed, I purchased some seal's flesh, blubber, frozen venison, dried and frozen salmon, and sold some of my puppies. They told us it was five days' journey to the wreck-one day up the inlet still in sight, and four days overland: this would carry them to the western coast of King William's Land; they added that but little now remained of the wreck which was accessible, their countrymen having carried almost everything away. In answer to an inquiry, they said she was without masts; the question gave rise to some laughter amongst them, and they spoke to each other about _fire_, from which Petersen thought they had burnt the masts through close to the deck in order to get them down.

"There had been _many books_, they said, but all have long ago been destroyed by the weather. The ship was forced on sh.o.r.e in the fall of the year by ice. She had not been visited during this past winter, and an old woman and a boy were shown to us who were the last to visit the wreck; they said they had been at it during the winter of 1857-8.

"Petersen questioned the woman closely, and she seemed anxious to give all the information in her power. She said many of the white men dropped by the way as they went to the Great River; that some of them were buried and some were not. They did not themselves witness this, but discovered their bodies during the winter following."

Having examined Montreal and King William's Island, they started on the return journey. After three weeks' travel M'Clintock continues:-"We were now upon the sh.o.r.e along which the retreating crews must have marched. My sledges, of course, travelled upon the sea-ice close along the sh.o.r.e; and although the depth of snow which covered the beach deprived us of almost every hope, yet we kept a very sharp look-out for traces; nor were we unsuccessful. Shortly after midnight of the 25th of May, when slowly walking along a gravel ridge near the beach, which the winds kept partially bare of snow, I came upon a human skeleton, partly exposed, with here and there a few fragments of clothing appearing through the snow. The skeleton-now perfectly bleached-was lying upon its face, the limbs and smaller bones either dissevered or gnawed away by small animals.

"A most careful examination of the spot was, of course, made, the snow removed, and every sc.r.a.p of clothing gathered up. A pocket-book afforded strong grounds for hope that some information might be subsequently obtained respecting the unfortunate owner and the calamitous march of the lost crews, but at the time it was frozen hard. The substance of that which we gleaned upon the spot may thus be summed up:-

[Ill.u.s.tration: CAPE YORK, MELVILLE BAY.]

"This victim was a young man, slightly built, and perhaps above the common height; the dress appeared to be that of a steward or officer's servant, the loose bow-knot in which his neck-handkerchief was tied not being used by officers or seamen. In every particular the dress confirmed our conjectures as to his rank or office in the late expedition-the blue jacket with slashed sleeves and braided edging, and the pilot-cloth great-coat with plain covered b.u.t.tons. We found a clothes-brush near and a horn pocket-comb. This poor man seems to have selected the bare ridge-top as affording the least tiresome walking, and to have fallen on his face in the position in which we found him.

"It was a melancholy truth that the old woman spoke when she said, 'They fell down and died as they walked along.'