The Present State of Virginia Part 4

Near this is a large Octogon Tower, which is the _Magazine_ or Repository of Arms and Ammunition, landing far from any House except _James Town Court-House_; for the Town is half in _James Town County_, and half in _York County_.

Not far from hence is a large _Area_ for a _Market Place_; near which is a _Play House_ and good _Bowling Green_.

From the _Church_ runs a Street Northward called _Palace Street_; at the other End of which stands the _Palace or Governor's House_, a magnificent Structure, built at the publick Expence, finished and beautified with Gates, fine Gardens, Offices, Walks, a fine Ca.n.a.l, Orchards, _&c._ with a great Number of the best Arms nicely posited, by the ingenious Contrivance of the most accomplished _Colonel Spotswood_.

This likewise has the ornamental Addition of a good _Cupola_ or _Lanthorn_, illuminated with most of the Town, upon _Birth-Nights_, and other Nights of occasional Rejoicings.

At the _Capitol_, at publick Times, may be seen a great Number of handsom, well-dress'd, compleat Gentlemen. And at the _Governor's_ House upon _Birth-Nights_, and at _b.a.l.l.s_ and _a.s.semblies_, I have seen as fine an Appearance, as good Diversion, and as splendid Entertainments in _Governor Spotswood's Time_, as I have seen any where else.

These Buildings here described are justly reputed the best in all the _English America_, and are exceeded by few of their Kind in _England_.

In every Part of this Town are excellent Springs of good Water, or else may be made good Wells; and the Ground falling on both Sides, conveys the Water and Rain by small Channels into the Creeks; but to make the main Street exactly level, the a.s.sembly lately gave a considerable Sum, which was expended in removing Earth in some Places, and building a Bridge over a low Channel; so that it is now a pleasant, long dry Walk, broad, and almost level from the _College_ to the _Capitol_.

_Williamsburgh_ is now incorporated and made a _Market Town_, and governed by a _Mayor and Aldermen_; and is well stock'd with rich _Stores_, of all Sorts of Goods, and well furnished with the best Provisions and Liquors.

Here dwell several very good Families, and more reside here in their own Houses at publick Times.

They live in the same neat Manner, dress after the same Modes, and behave themselves exactly as the _Gentry in London_; most Families of any Note having a _Coach_, _Chariot_, _Berlin_, _or Chaise_.

The Number of Artificers is here daily augmented; as are the convenient _Ordinaries_ or Inns for Accommodation of Strangers.

The Servants here, as in other Parts of the Country, are _English_, _Scotch_, _Irish_, _or Negroes_.

The Town is laid out regularly in _Lots_ or square Portions, sufficient each for a House and Garden; so that they don't build contiguous, whereby may be prevented the spreading Danger of Fire; and this also affords a free Pa.s.sage for the Air, which is very grateful in violent hot Weather.

Here, as in other Parts, they build with Brick, but most commonly with Timber lined with Cieling, and cased with feather-edged Plank, painted with white Lead and Oil, covered with Shingles of _Cedar_, &c. tarr'd over at first; with a Pa.s.sage generally through the Middle of the House for an Air-Draught in Summer.

Thus their Houses are lasting, dry, and warm in Winter, and cool in Summer; especially if there be Windows enough to draw the Air.

Thus they dwell comfortably, genteely, pleasantly, and plentifully in this delightful, healthful, and (I hope) thriving _City of Williamsburgh_.

CHAP. III.

_Of the Situation and Nature of the Country of_ Virginia, _and its Coasts_, &c.

Under the Meridian is extended the Expanse _Bay of Chesapeak_, esteemed one of the n.o.blest and safest Bays in the World.

The Land on the _East_ Side of it is called the _Eastern Sh.o.r.e_, the Northern Part of it belonging to _Maryland_, and the Southern containing _Accomack_ and _Northampton Counties_ belonging to _Virginia_; at the extreme Point of which lies one of the _Capes of Virginia_, the other being opposite to it, one called _Cape Henry_, and the other _Cape Charles_; _without_ these runs a bold Sh.o.r.e Southward, being the Coast of _North Carolina_.

After Ships are clear of _England_, they need go near neither Land, Rocks, nor Shoals, but in a direct Course might cross the vast _Atlantick Ocean_ about a thousand Leagues nearly _W. S. W._ till they make Land somewhat to the Southward of the Capes; then knowing (by their Lat.i.tude, or Landmarks, or by certain Trees) what Land they are near, they may easily get within the Capes, unless they happen to be kept off to Sea for some Time by bl.u.s.tering _Northwesters_; or unless they carelessly fall upon _Cape Hatteras_, or other Shoals on that Coast, in known Lat.i.tudes; so that this may be esteemed as easy a Voyage as any.

There are belonging to _Virginia_ four princ.i.p.al Rivers (neither of them inferior upon many Accounts to the _Thames_ or _Severn_) that empty themselves into the Bay after they have glided some Hundreds of Miles fromwards the Mountains, the Western Bounds of _Virginia_.

The most Southerly of these Rivers is called _James River_, and the next _York River_, the Land in the Lat.i.tude between these Rivers seeming most nicely adapted for _sweet scented_, or the finest _Tobacco_; for 'tis observed that the goodness decreaseth the farther you go to the Northward of the one, and the Southward of the other; but this may be (I believe) attributed in some Measure to the Seed and Management, as well as to the Land and Lat.i.tude: For on _York River_ in a small Tract of Land called _Digges's Neck_, which is poorer than a great deal of other Land in the same Lat.i.tude, by a particular Seed and Management, is made the famous Crop known by the Name of the _E Dees_, remarkable for its mild taste and fine Smell.

The next great River is _Rappahannock_, and the fourth is _Potowmack_, which divides _Virginia_ from the _Province_ of _Maryland_.

These are supplied by several lesser Rivers, such as _Chickahommony_ and others, _navigable_ for Vessels of great Burthen.

Into these Rivers run abundance of great _Creeks_ or short Rivers, navigable for _Sloops_, _Shallops_, _Long-Boats_, _Flats_, _Canoes_ and _Periaguas_.

These _Creeks_ are supplied with the _Tide_, (which indeed does not rise so high as in _Europe_, so prevents their making good _Docks_) and also with fresh-Water-runs, replenished with _Branches_ issuing from the _Springs_, and soaking through the _Swamps_; so that no Country is better watered, for the Conveniency of which most Houses are built near some Landing-Place; so that any Thing may be delivered to a Gentleman there from _London_, _Bristol_, &c. with less Trouble and Cost, than to one living five Miles in the _Country in England_; for you pay no Freight for Goods from _London_, and but little from _Bristol_; only the Party to whom the Goods belong, is in Grat.i.tude engaged to freight _Tobacco_ upon the Ship consigned to her Owners in _England_.

Because of this Convenience, and for the Goodness of the Land, and for the sake of Fish, Fowl, _&c._ Gentlemen and Planters love to build near the Water; though it be not altogether so healthy as the _Uplands_ and _Barrens_, which serve for _Ranges for Stock_.

In the _Uplands_ near the Ridge generally run the _main Roads_, in a pleasant, dry, sandy Soil, free from Stones and Dirt, and shaded and sheltered chiefly by Trees; in some Places being not unlike the Walks in _Greenwich Park_.

Thus neither the Interest nor Inclinations of the _Virginians_ induce them to cohabit in Towns; so that they are not forward in contributing their a.s.sistance towards the making of particular Places, every Plantation affording the Owner the Provision of a little Market; wherefore they most commonly build upon some convenient Spot or Neck of Land in their own Plantation, though Towns are laid out and establish'd in each County; the best of which (next _Williamsburgh_) are _York_, _Glocester_, _Hampton_, _Elizabeth Town_, and _Urbanna_.

The Colony now is encreased to _twenty nine Counties_, naturally bounded (near as much as may be) one with another about as big as _Kent_; but the frontier Counties are of vast Extent, though not thick seated as yet.

The whole Country is a perfect Forest, except where the Woods are cleared for Plantations, and old Fields, and where have been formerly _Indian Towns_, and _poisoned Fields_ and _Meadows_, where the Timber has been burnt down in Fire-Hunting or otherwise; and about the Creeks and Rivers are large rank _Mora.s.ses_ or _Marshes_, and up the Country are poor _Savannahs_.

The Gentlemen's Seats are of late built for the most Part of good Brick, and many of Timber very handsom, commodious, and capacious; and likewise the common Planters live in pretty Timber Houses, neater than the _Farm Houses_ are generally in _England_: With Timber also are built Houses for the _Overseers_ and _Out-Houses_; among which is the _Kitchen_ apart from the _Dwelling House_, because of the Smell of hot Victuals, offensive in hot Weather.

CHAP. IV.

_Of the_ Negroes, _with the Planting and Management of_ Indian _Corn, Tobacco,_ &c. _and of their Timber, Stock, Fruits, Provision, and Habitations,_ &c.

The _Negroes_ live in small Cottages called _Quarters_, in about six in a _Gang_, under the Direction of an _Overseer_ or _Bailiff_; who takes Care that they _tend_ such Land as the Owner allots and orders, upon which they raise _Hogs_ and _Cattle_, and plant _Indian Corn_ (or _Maize_) and _Tobacco_ for the Use of their Master; out of which the _Overseer_ has a Dividend (or Share) in Proportion to the Number of _Hands_ including himself; this with several Privileges is his Salary, and is an ample Recompence for his Pains, and Encouragement of his industrious Care, as to the Labour, Health, and Provision of the _Negroes_.

The _Negroes_ are very numerous, some Gentlemen having Hundreds of them of all Sorts, to whom they bring great Profit; for the Sake of which they are obliged to keep them well, and not over-work, starve, or famish them, besides other Inducements to favour them; which is done in a _great Degree_, to such especially that are laborious, careful, and honest; tho' indeed some Masters, careless of their own Interest or Reputation, are too cruel and negligent.

The _Negroes_ are not only encreased by fresh Supplies from _Africa_ and the _West India_ Islands, but also are very prolifick among themselves; and they that are born there talk _good English_, and affect our Language, Habits, and Customs; and tho' they be naturally of a barbarous and cruel Temper, yet are they kept under by severe Discipline upon Occasion, and by good Laws are prevented from running away, injuring the _English_, or neglecting their Business.

Their Work (or Chimerical hard Slavery) is not very laborious; their greatest Hardship consisting in that they and their Posterity are not at their own Liberty or Disposal, but are the Property of their Owners; and when they are free, they know not how to provide so well for themselves generally; neither did they live so plentifully nor (many of them) so easily in their own Country, where they are made Slaves to one another, or taken Captive by their Enemies.

The Children belong to the Master of the Woman that bears them; and such as are born of a _Negroe_ and an _European_ are called _Molattoes_; but such as are born of an _Indian_ and _Negroe_ are called _Mustees_.

Their Work is to take Care of the _Stock_, and plant _Corn_, _Tobacco_, _Fruits_, &c. which is not harder than _Thrashing_, _Hedging_, or _Ditching_; besides, tho' they are out in the violent Heat, wherein they delight, yet in wet or cold Weather there is little Occasion for their working in the Fields, in which few will let them be abroad, lest by this means they might get sick or die, which would prove a great Loss to their Owners, a good _Negroe_ being sometimes worth three (nay four) Score Pounds Sterling, if he be a Tradesman; so that upon this (if upon no other Account) they are obliged not to overwork them, but to cloath and feed them sufficiently, and take Care of their Health.

Several of them are taught to be _Sawyers_, _Carpenters_, _Smiths_, _Coopers_, &c. and though for the most Part they be none of the aptest or nicest; yet they are by Nature cut out for hard Labour and Fatigue, and will perform tolerably well; though they fall much short of an _Indian_, that has learn'd and seen the same Things; and _those Negroes_ make the best Servants, that have been _Slaves_ in their _own Country_; for they that have been _Kings_ and _great Men_ there are generally lazy, haughty, and obstinate; whereas the others are sharper, better humoured, and more laborious.

The _Languages_ of the _new Negroes_ are various harsh _Jargons_, and their _Religions_ and _Customs_ such as are best described by Mr.

_Bosman_ in his Book int.i.tled (I think) _A Description of the Coasts of_ Africa.

The _Virginia_ Planters readily learn to become good _Mechanicks_ in Building, wherein most are capable of directing their Servants and Slaves.

As for Timber they abound with excellent good; having about eight Sorts of _Oak_, several Kinds of _Walnut-Tree_, and _Hickory_ and _Pignut_, _Pine_, _Cedar_, and _Cypress_ for _Shingles_; which Covering is lighter than _Tiles_, and being nailed down, are not easily blown off in any Tempest or _Gust_.