The Practical Distiller Part 3

_To ascertain when Rye works well in the Hogshead._

When mashed rye begins to work or ferment in the hogsheads, either in a heavy, thick, or light bubbly top, both of which are unfavorable; when it rises in a thick heavy top, you may be sure there is something wrong, either in the grain, yeast, or cooling off. When the top (as called by distillers) appear, with bubbles about the size of a nutmeg, rising and falling alternately, with the top not too thick nor too thin, and with the appearance of waves, mixed with the grain in the hogshead, rising and falling in succession, and when you put your head over the steam, and it flying into your nose, will have a suffocating effect, or when it will instantly extinguish a candle when held over it, you may feel a.s.sured, it is working well.

From these hints and the experience of the distiller, a judgment may be formed of the state of fermentation and the quality.

ART. XI.

_To prevent Hogsheads from working over._

If the stuff is cooled off too warm, or too much yeast is put in the hogsheads, they will work over, and of course lose a great deal of spirit, to prevent which, take tallow and rub round the chine of the hogsheads a little higher than they ought to work; it will generally prevent them from rising any higher, but if they will work over in spite of this remedy, then drop a little tallow into the stuff, it will immediately sink the stuff to a proper height.

SECTION IV.

ARTICLE I.

_Observations on the quality of Rye for distilling._

The best rye for distilling is that which is thoroughly ripe, before it is cut, and kept dry till threshed; if it has grown on high or hilly ground, it is therefore to be preferred, being then sounder and the grain fuller, than that produced on low level land--but very often the distiller has no choice, but must take that which is most convenient;--great care however ought to be observed in selecting sound rye, that has been kept dry, is clean and free from c.o.c.kle, and all kind of dirt, advantages will result from fanning it, or running it through a windmill before it is chopped.

ART. II.

_Mode of chopping Rye and the proper size._

The mill stones ought to be burrs, and kept very sharp for chopping rye for distillation; and the miller ought to be careful not to draw more water on the wheel than just sufficient to do it well, and avoid feeding the stones plentifully; because in drawing a plentiful supply of water, the wheel will compel a too rapid movement of the stones, of course render it necessary they should be more abundantly fed, which causes part to be ground dead, or too fine, whilst part thereof will be too coa.r.s.e, and not sufficiently broken, so that a difficulty arises in scalding--for in this state it will not scald equally, and of consequence, the fermentation cannot be so good or regular; and moreover as part of it will merely be flattened, a greater difficulty will arise in breaking the lumps, when you mash and stir your hogsheads.

If burr stones are very sharp, I recommend the rye to be chopped very fine, but to guard against over-seeding, or pressing too much on them; but if the stones are not sharp, I would recommend the rye should be chopped about half fine. Distillers in general sustain a loss from having their rye chopped so coa.r.s.e as I have observed it done in common.

ART. III.

_Chopping or Grinding Indian Corn._

Indian corn cannot be ground too fine for distilling.

ART. IV.

_Malt_

Cannot be ground too coa.r.s.e, provided it is done even--there ought to be no fine nor coa.r.s.e grains in malt, but ground perfectly alike, and of the same grade. If ground too fine, it will be apt to be scalded too much in mashing. Malt does not require half the scalding necessary in rye. Let the distiller try the experiment of coa.r.s.e and then of fine ground malt and judge for himself.

ART. V.

_How to choose Malt._

Malt is chosen by its sweet smell, mellow taste, full flower, round body and thin skin. There are two kinds used, the pale and the brown--the pale is the best.

ART. VI.

_How to build a Malt kiln in every Distillery._

When setting up your stills, leave a s.p.a.ce of about nine inches for a small furnace between the large ones, extend it to your chimney and carry up a funnel, there-from to the loft, then stop it--here build the kiln on the loft, about 4 or 5 feet square, the walls to be composed of single brick, 3 feet high--lay the bottom with brick, cover it with a plaster of mortar, to prevent the floor from taking fire. Turn the funnel of the chimney into, and extend it to the centre of the kiln, cover the top, leaving vent holes at the sides for the heat to escape thro'--Place on the top of the kiln, sheet iron or tin punched full of small holes, too small to admit the pa.s.sage of malt; lay the malt on the top of the tin, when ready for drying. Put coals from under the still furnace into the small furnace leading to the kiln, which will heat the kiln and dry the malt above, by adding to or diminishing the quant.i.ty of coals, the heat may be increased or decreased, as may be found necessary. Malt for distilling ought to be dried without smoke.

ART. VII.

_Hops._

Give a preference to hops of a bright green colour, sweet smell, and have a gummy or clammy effect when rubbed between the hands or fingers.

SECTION V.

ARTICLE I.

_How to order and fill the Singling still when distilling Rye._

Sc.r.a.pe, clean, and grease the singling still, fill her up with beer, and keep a good fire under her, till she be warm enough to head, stirring her constantly with a broom, to prevent the grain from sticking to the bottom or sides, and burning, which it is very apt to do when the beer is cold, but when it comes to boil there is little danger, prevented by the motion of boiling; have the head washed clean--when she is ready for the head, clap it on and paste it; keep up a brisk fire, until she begins to drop from the worm, then put in the damper in the chimney, and if the fire be very strong, moderate it a little, by throwing ashes or water on it, to prevent her throwing the head, which she will be very apt to do if very full, and coming round under a strong fire, (should the head come, or be thrown off, the spirit remaining will scarcely be worth running off). When fairly round and running moderately, watch her for half an hour; after which, unless the fire is very strong all danger is over.

Should she happen to throw the head, it is the duty of the distiller to take and (wash the head and worm--the latter will be found full of stuff) clean, clap on the head, and paste it--but the moment the head is thrown off, the fire should be drowned out, and water thrown into the still to prevent her boiling over.

It is important that after every run, or rather before you commence a run, the distiller should carefully clean out the still, wipe the bottom dry, and grease her well, to prevent her from burning and singeing the liquor.

ART. II.

_Mode of managing the doubling Still when making Whiskey._

Let the doubling still be carefully cleaned and washed out, then be filled with singlings and low wines left from the run preceding, add thereto half a pint of salt and one quart of clean ashes, which will help to clear the whiskey, and a handful of Indian meal to prevent the still from leaking at the c.o.c.k, or elsewhere--clean the head and worm, put on the head, paste it well; put fire under and bring her round slowly, and run the spirit off as slow as possible, and preserve the water in the cooling tub as cold as in your power.

Let the liquor as it runs from the worm pa.s.s thro' a flannel to prevent the overjuice from the copper, and the oil of the grain from mixing with the spirit. The first being poisonous, and the latter injurious to the liquor.

The doubling still cannot be run too slow for making good whiskey ...

observe when the proof leaves the worm, that is when there is no proof on the liquor as it comes from the worm, if there be ten gallons in your doubling keg, if so, run out three more, which will make in all thirteen gallons first proof whiskey. If the proof leaves the worm at eight gallons, then run till eleven gallons and so on in proportion, to the larger or smaller quant.i.ty in your keg at the time of the ceasing of the proof.

ART. III.

_Observations on the advantages of making strong and good Whiskey with stalement, &c._