The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Volume II Part 14

BROADSTAIRS.

ISLE OF THANET.

"True to the dream of fancy, Ocean has His darker tints; but where's the element That chequers not its usefulness to man With casual terror?"

CAMPBELL.

This delightful watering-place, nearly equidistant from Margate on the north, and Ramsgate on the south, enjoys its full share of popularity; and, judging from many recent improvements, offers increasing attractions to the numerous visitors who make Thanet's "sea-girt sh.o.r.e"

their summer residence. To those who prefer tranquillity and retirement to scenes of bustle and holiday festivity, Broadstairs will present many advantages over its more gay and animated rivals; and to the studious and contemplative nothing can be more congenial than the society which generally meet once a year in this interesting spot. To the invalid it is favourable from the same causes, offering few temptations to gaiety or indulgence, but affording every facility for retired and intellectual enjoyment. The sea-view is magnificent; and the numerous vessels which are constantly pa.s.sing and repa.s.sing give a most agreeable animation to the waters in front, which are walled in by lofty cliffs, from which the visitor inhales the fresh sea-breeze, as it first strikes the land, and carries its invigorating influence through his frame.

Broadstairs has long been the periodical residence of many distinguished literary men, most of whom have acknowledged the benefit derived from its bracing climate, and verified their opinion by repeated trials. If pure air could be as readily administered as certain medicinal compounds, there would be little necessity for so often deserting the courts and counting-houses of the metropolis in search of health; but so long as this "draught" cannot be made up according to nature's prescription, it is cheering to know that on the coast it may be had ready prepared, and without "mistake" or "adulteration."

It was while overlooking a scene like that which opens upon the visitor at Broadstairs, and while sensibly feeling all the salubrious influence of the breezes, that seemed to welcome and caress him when exchanging the pleasures of town for poetry and contemplation on the coast, that the Bard of Hope broke out into these n.o.ble and impa.s.sioned lines:--

"Hail to thy face and odours, glorious Sea!

'Twere thanklessness in me to bless thee not, Great beauteous being! in whose breath and smile My heart beats calmer, and my very mind Inhales salubrious thoughts. How welcomer _Thy_ murmurs, than the murmurs of the world!

Tho', like the world, thou fluctuatest, to me Thy din is peace, thy restlessness repose.

Even gladly I exchange yon spring-green lanes, With all the darling field-flowers in their prime, And gardens haunted by the nightingale's Long trill, and gushing extasies of song, For these wild headlands and the sea-mew's clang!"

Broadstairs appears, in addition to its attraction as bathing-quarters, to have formerly enjoyed a considerable share of trade in the fisheries; but this source of revenue having dried up, recourse was had to ship-building, which is still carried on to a small extent. Its chief dependence, however, is on the number and respectability of its visitors, many of whom retire here for several months annually with their families, and, by a liberal expenditure, do much to support the markets and to encourage local industry. The bathing-place is at the mouth of the harbour, under the cliff, and is provided with every accommodation to be found at the larger watering-places. There are two or more excellent hotels, and two extensive public libraries, commanding magnificent views of the sea and the shipping--from a fishing-boat to a seventy-four--pa.s.sing to and from the Downs, at all hours of the day.

The place is still further enlivened, as well as benefited, by the London steamers, which here land or embark pa.s.sengers in their way to and from town.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WRECK IN KINGSGATE BAY.

(Isle of Thanet.)]

KINGSGATE,

NEAR BROADSTAIRS.

"Olim Porta fui Patroni Bartholomaei, Nunc Regis jussu REGIA PORTA vocor, Hic exscenderunt Carolus Secundus Rex Et Jacobus Dux EBOR. 30 Junii, 1683."

So named in consequence of its having been the point at which King Charles II. and his brother, the Duke of York, disembarked on their way from London to Dover, as recorded in the preceding inscription. It consists of a narrow sloping pa.s.sage, cut through the chalk cliff, and communicating with the beach for the convenience of the fishery formerly carried on in this neighbourhood. It was originally known as "St.

Bartholomew's Gate," from the circ.u.mstance of its having been completed, according to tradition, on the festival of that Saint, and therefore placed under hallowed auspices. The eastern side of this portal, opposite the sea, bears, in Saxon characters, ~G.o.d Bless Barth'lem's Gate~. It is about a mile from Broadstairs, and in the midst of scenery which Henry Lord Holland did much to embellish by great liberality and a correct taste in architecture. His marine residence here was built after the model of Cicero's villa on the sh.o.r.e of Baiae, near Naples; but being subsequently purchased by some monied speculator, who had most likely never heard of Cicero, it was despoiled of its rich Italian marbles, curtailed and barbarised in its proportions, and metamorphosed into three insignificant dwellings. Around it were several fantastic buildings, intended to represent various Gothic ruins; the most considerable of which was the convent, containing the remains of a chapel and five cells, which once afforded an asylum to poor families.

Nearer the cliff is a rude Gothic structure, erected on the larger of the two tumuli, called Hackendown Banks, which, according to tradition, marks the spot where a sanguinary conflict took place between the Saxons and the Danes, in which the latter were defeated. On opening these barrows, graves were found excavated in the solid chalk, of an oblong oval form, about three feet long, and covered with flat stones. In one of them were discovered three urns of coa.r.s.e, black, ill-burnt earth, which, on being exposed to the air, crumbled to pieces. On a tablet erected by Lord Holland is a Latin inscription, to the memory of the Danes and Saxons, who here fought a sanguinary battle for the possession of Britain; the natives having before been perfidiously and cruelly expelled. The village of St. Peter, situated on a conspicuously wooded eminence, is much frequented by pleasure parties from the three bathing-places adjacent. The church is a fine, venerable structure, the steeple of which, of great strength and solidity, is remarkable for a rent from top to bottom, occasioned, it is said, by the shock of an earthquake, which was severely felt along this coast in 1580.

The North Foreland, the most eastern point of England, and supposed to be the "Cantium" of Ptolemy, forms a bold projection on the line of cliffs between Broadstairs and Kingsgate. On this promontory stands the North Foreland Lighthouse, which has proved an incalculable safeguard to the navigation of the Downs, which, independently of the near vicinity of the Goodwin Sands, is attended with great risk in dark and stormy weather. The lights consist of patent lamps, with large magnifying lenses twenty inches in diameter, which are lighted at sunset, and kept burning till after daybreak. From the top the view of the straits and French coast is most extensive, and on this account it is much resorted to by strangers. The date of its erection is that of the landing of King Charles at Kingsgate, already noticed.

The Goodwin Sands, which here protect the Downs from the swell of the Northern Ocean, are about seven miles from the coast, ten miles long, and two or more in breadth. They consist of a more soft, fluid, porous, spongy, but withal tenacious substance, than the neighbouring sands, and are consequently of such a quality, that when a ship strikes upon them there is but very little chance of her getting off: the nature of the sand being to swallow its prey in a few hours, while the surf, which breaks over them, frustrates all attempts to approach the ill-fated vessel. When the tide, however, has ebbed sufficiently, these sands become so hard and firm that cricket-matches have been played upon them.

But woe to him who does not quit so treacherous a field at the proper moment; for on the return of the tide they are instantly converted into quicksands, that float to and fro with the waves.

[Ill.u.s.tration: "THE WESTMINSTER" AND "CLAUDINE," ASh.o.r.e NEAR MARGATE.]

SCENE NEAR MARGATE.

TWO VESSELS ASh.o.r.e.

At night, beneath a cloudless moon, Yon gallant vessel plough'd her way; But storms arose:--next day at noon, A stranded wreck that vessel lay!

So man, beneath a flattering sun, Puts forth in pride his slender sail; But while he dreams of treasure won, His bark is shatter'd in the gale.--W. B.

Along the west side of the Isle of Thanet the sea has made very considerable encroachments; many of the ancient landmarks have been washed away, and naturally exposed to the fury of the north and east winds, great portions of the cliffs have gradually disappeared in the sea. The same causes continuing in active operation, the effects are annually perceptible upon the boundary line, which defends this coast from the Northern Ocean. But the damage sustained in the east is amply compensated for in the west of England, where a territory fit for the accommodation of 20,000 or 30,000 inhabitants might be gained from the tide-mark at little comparative outlay. We allude to the projected improvements on the Lancashire coast, particularly Morecambe Bay, and the estuary of the river Duddon.

Margate had originally a natural inlet of the sea; and in the reign of Edward I. Gore-end church, in consequence of the sea's encroachment, was removed inland. "Margate," says Leland, "lyeth in St. John's paroche in Thanet, a v. mile fro Reculver; and there is a village and a peere for shyppes, but sore decayed." Owing to its natural position, Margate has never been able to establish a foreign trade. In 1787, the old wooden pier having become ruinous, it was cased with stone, and extended further into the sea; but a tremendous gale having soon after come on, the works were demolished; and a fresh act of parliament being obtained for that purpose, a fine, strong, and convenient mole was erected on a new plan, where a public promenade, with an extensive prospect, affords a beautiful source of recreation to the visitors, while at the same time it shuts out from observation the hurry and bustle of the harbour.

In 1748, a tremendous storm from the southward drove a number of vessels from their anchorage in the Downs, many of which were wrecked under these cliffs. The vast sacrifice of life and property thus occasioned induced the shipping and mercantile interests to think of increasing the capacity of Ramsgate harbour, an account of which appears in this work.

Winds from the south-east and south-west are those by which the safety of the shipping in the Downs is most endangered. Vessels breaking adrift in the latter at night, with strong south-west and southerly gales, says an experienced naval officer, should run into the North Sea, through the Gulf Stream; if in distress, and the attempt uncertain, the only alternative is to run for Ramsgate harbour or on the Sandwich flats.

Along this coast nine lug-boats, called _hovellers_, are employed for the relief of vessels in distress. They vary from twenty to twenty-seven tons burthen each, draw five feet water, and are usually manned with a crew of ten men, who are always on the out-look for vessels requiring their a.s.sistance. By their proverbial courage and exertions, many lives are annually saved from vessels wrecked on the neighbouring coast and shoals, and much valuable property restored to its owners. When it becomes a salvage case, they lay their claims before one of the commission courts, appointed by the Lord Warden, who make an award agreeable to the service performed. Several of these boats are stationed at Margate, Ramsgate, Deal, and Dover; but those of the latter only have the privilege to enter continental ports, by license from the Custom-house. In the most severe and boisterous weather several of these boats cruise in the Narrows of the Channel, and are frequently the means of rendering, under desperate circ.u.mstances, important service to the shipping interest.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHATHAM.]

CHATHAM DOCK-YARD.

The view of the Dock-yard at Chatham is taken from the opposite side of the Medway, a little above Upnor Castle, which was built by Queen Elizabeth to defend the pa.s.sage of the river. To the left is seen a sheer hulk, so called from her "sheers"--two strong pieces of timber of great height, inclining towards each other and joined together at the top--which are used for the purpose of raising and placing in their proper situations the lower masts of ships of war. Further to the right are perceived the large roofs of the building-slips and dry-docks; nearly abreast of which are two ships of war laid up in ordinary. A-head of those vessels are two others of the same cla.s.s; and further up the river, directly in front, a view is obtained of part of the town of Chatham.

The Dock-yard of Chatham lies at a short distance to the northward of the town of that name, and on the right bank of the river Medway. The first dockyard at Chatham for the service of the navy was established by Queen Elizabeth. It was situated higher up the river than the present yard, on a narrow slip of land, and had only one dock. In 1622 a new dock-yard was formed by James I., and the site of the old one, which was too circ.u.mscribed for the service of the increasing navy, was a.s.signed to the Board of Ordnance. In the reign of Charles I., additional dry-docks and building-slips were formed and several store-houses erected.

Chatham dock-yard is enclosed on the land side by a high wall, and the princ.i.p.al entrance is through a lofty gateway to the south-west, above which are the royal arms, and on each side an embattled tower. Strangers wishing to see the yard are furnished with a ticket by the superintendent of the dock-police on entering their names in a book kept at a lodge within the gate. There are four docks and seven building-slips at Chatham, most of which are covered with immense roofs.

To the south-westward of the docks there is a long range of store-houses facing the river, and having in front a s.p.a.cious quay, part of which is occupied as an anchor wharf. Behind this line of buildings, which is upwards of a thousand feet in length, is the ropery, where cables and all other kinds of ropes are manufactured for the use of ships of war.

Beyond the docks to the northward, are the mast-ponds and sheds for storing timber, on the right; and on the left is the boat-house. At the smith's shop anchors and other articles of iron work are made for the use of the navy; and towards the north-eastern extremity of the yard is a saw-mill, erected by Mr. Brunel, the inventor of the block-machinery at Portsmouth. The mill is situated on an eminence, and the timber intended to be cut is floated through a tunnel from the Medway into an elliptic basin, from which it is raised by machinery to the level of the mill. The saws are put in motion by a steam-engine; and the timber, after having been cut, is conveyed away by trucks running on railways to different parts of the yard. When M. Charles Dupin, the celebrated French author of several works on the dock-yards, roads, bridges, and harbours of Great Britain, visited Chatham in 1817, he objected to this saw-mill being erected on an eminence; but he seems to have overlooked the consequent advantage of the timber being thence conveyed by a gentle slope, with very little labour, to the different docks and slips, without interfering with any of the other works.[14] The commissioner has a handsome residence within the walls of the yard, and there are also many excellent houses, which are occupied by the officers and princ.i.p.al artificers. A neat chapel, of brick, for the convenience of the officers and workmen, was erected within the yard in 1811. At one period during the late war, the number of men employed was 3000.

The Ordnance Wharf is situated to the south-westward of the dock-yard on the site of the old yard established by Queen Elizabeth, and it is still frequently called the Old Dock. The guns are placed in rows, and have painted on them the name of the ship to which they belong, and their weight of metal; the carriages are also placed separately, but under sheds. Large piles of shot are seen in various parts of the wharf; and there is also within its boundary an armoury, where various kinds of weapons--chiefly muskets, pistols, pikes, and cutla.s.ses--are arranged in admirable order.

A fund--commonly called the Chest of Chatham--for the relief of disabled seamen, was established there by Queen Elizabeth on the recommendation of Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins, in 1588--the seamen of the royal navy, after the defeat of the Spanish Armada, having agreed to give up a portion of their pay for the relief of their wounded and disabled brethren. The Royal Marine Hospital of Chatham is one of the finest establishments of the kind in Great Britain, and from the elegance of its plan, the extent of its buildings, and its commanding position, forms a truly n.o.ble feature in the landscape.