The Old Pike Part 32

CHAPTER x.x.xVIII.

_Old Tavern and Tavern Keepers continued--Washington--Washington and Jefferson College--The Female Seminary--James Wilson, first Tavern Keeper in Washington--The two Dodds--Major McCormick's--The White Goose and the Golden Swan--Hallam's Old Wagon Stand--The Valentine--The Buck--The Gen. Andrew Jackson--The Globe--The Cross Keys--The Indian Queen--The Mermaid--The Rising Sun--The Gen.

Brown--The Fountain--Billy Brown and Jimmy Brown--The Mansion--John N. Dagg--A Giant Boot Jack--The American--The Fulton--The National--Surratt's--The Greene House._

Washington became a point on the National Road by force of a provision in the act of a.s.sembly of Pennsylvania, approved April 9th, 1807, before recited. In a retrospective view that seems to have been a wise provision. Washington, it is true, is older than the road, but without the road it would be difficult to conjecture what the history of the town would have been from 1818 down to 1852. That the road had much to do in promoting the growth and prosperity of the town, there can be no question, and it must also be conceded that the town contributed in good round measure to the life and prosperity of the road. Washington is one of the largest and prettiest towns on the road, not as well favored by location as Uniontown. While Washington possesses many very important advantages, it has at the same time, like other towns, its disadvantages. For example, it is a dry town. It was not dry in the palmy days of the old pike. No liquor can at this time be lawfully sold in Washington as a beverage, and the town is not over abundantly supplied with good water. On the other hand, the town is justly distinguished for the superiority of its educational inst.i.tutions.

Washington and Jefferson college is one of the best in the land. Its graduates include many of the ablest men of the country, both of the present and the past. Everywhere, at every loading point in our widely extended Republic, the graduates of Washington and Jefferson College are pushing ahead at the front, in all the learned professions, in the judiciary, and in every line of honorable industry. It is not a dude college, as many more pretentious colleges are, but a working college, sending out workers, equipped like men, to run the race set before them.

The Female Seminary is another inst.i.tution of which the citizens of Washington are justly proud. It stands in the front rank of similar inst.i.tutions, and for more than half a century, year after year, has sent out its graduates to cheer and brighten the world.

The writer of these lines confesses to an affection for Washington, which no vicissitude of life or time can alienate. He was educated at her college, and if he failed in obtaining a thorough education, it was not the fault of his venerable _alma mater_. Dr. David McConoughy, who presided over the college, when the writer was a student within its halls, deserves to be cla.s.sed among the Saints. A purer man never lived.

He was a Christian, who never entertained a doubt, and a scholar in the broadest sense; and it is most gratifying to the thousands of graduates and friends of the college scattered broadcast throughout the land, to know that Dr. Moffatt, the present head of the inst.i.tution, is a worthy successor of that venerated president. The writer also retains the sweetest recollections of the old citizens of Washington, and cherishes with deepest feeling his a.s.sociations at college with James G. Blaine, who subsequently became the most ill.u.s.trious statesman of his generation, and many others who have written their names high on the scroll of fame.

There may be some readers inclined to think that the blending of stage drivers and wagoners with doctors, teachers and statesmen, is a strange commingling; but it is not. History is literature, and stage drivers and wagoners, like other cla.s.ses, and occupations of men, enter into the web and woof of history.

James Wilson hung out the first tavern sign in Washington. His house was a log structure, and stood at the northwest corner of Main and Beau streets, now covered by Smith's store. He opened up business in 1781, and was licensed by the court to dispense the ardent at "Catfish Camp."

He continued business in this house down to the year 1792. The old Supreme Judges stopped at Wilson's tavern when they went to Washington to hold the courts of Oyer and Terminer. Whether they were fed on roast pig, as Chief Justice McKean at Salter's old tavern in Uniontown, does not appear of record. After Wilson's time this house was enlarged and otherwise improved, and continued as a tavern by Michael Ocheltree, who remained in charge down to the year 1812, when a man of the name of Rotroff was installed as host. Rotroff gave way to John Kline, who came up from the Cross Roads, nine miles west of Brownsville, and took charge of the house, under the sign of "Gen. Wayne." Capt. John McCluney followed Kline, and he in turn was followed by Joseph Teeters and Joseph Hallam. Hallam kept the house until probably 1840, when he went down town to take charge of the old wagon stand on the site of the present Valentine House. When Hallam left it the old Wilson House ceased to be a tavern.

As early as 1782 John Dodd kept tavern in a log house on the east side of Main street, nearly opposite the court house, and remained its host until his death in 1795. He died while returning home from a trading trip to New Orleans. John Wilson next took charge, and conducted its affairs for many years, a.s.sociated with stirring events, down to a period as late probably as 1835, when the house disappeared as a tavern.

John Dodd was an ancestor of the numerous Dodds now of Washington and vicinity, most of whom have taken to the ministry and other learned professions.

Charles Dodd, a brother of John, above mentioned, kept a tavern on Main street in 1782, in a log house, recently occupied by Robert Strean's hardware store. The first courts of Washington county were held in this old tavern, and the county jail was a log stable in the rear of the lot on which it stood. Charles Dodd kept this tavern for ten years, and sold out to Daniel Kehr, who continued it a short time, but finding it unprofitable, took down his sign and went to shoemaking.

John Adams kept a tavern from 1783 to 1789. Its location is not accurately known, and so in the case of John Colwell, a tavern keeper of 1784. In 1785 Hugh Means, Samuel Acklin and William Falconer, were tavern keepers in Washington. Acklin continued in the business until 1788, and Falconer until 1791. William Meetkirk, who was subsequently a justice of the peace for many years, kept a tavern on Main street from 1786 to 1793, in the house until recently occupied by Mrs. McFarland, and it is not unlikely that this is the house kept by Colwell and Means.

Maj. George McCormick kept a tavern in 1788, and Col. John May's journal compliments it by this entry: "Thursday, Aug. 7, 1788, set out from the hotel at four o'clock, and at half-past eight arrived at Maj. George McCormick's in Washington, where we breakfasted. This is an excellent house, where New England men put up." The writer regrets his failure to ascertain the exact location of this old tavern.

Hugh Wilson (son of James) kept a tavern in Washington in 1789, and John McMichael in 1790, the locations of which are not now ascertainable.

Charles Valentine kept the "White Goose" in 1791. This house stood on the lot now covered by the Valentine House. The name Valentine is prominently identified with the National Road from the date of its construction to the present time. The "White Goose" was the symbol under which this old tavern sailed until the year 1806, when it a.s.sumed the more poetic name of "Golden Swan," under the management of John Rettigg.

Rettigg was relieved from its cares and responsibilities in 1810 by Juliana Valentine, who presided over its destinies down to the year 1819. It next pa.s.sed to the control and management of James Sargeant, who kept it for a brief period, and turned it over to John Valentine and Lewis Valentine, who continued it down to 1825. It was next kept for two years by John Hays. In 1827 it was kept by Isaac Sumny, under the sign of the "Washington Hall." It was kept by Samuel Donley and various other persons, down to about the year 1840, when as before stated, it pa.s.sed to the control of Joseph Hallam. In Hallam's time it was a popular wagon stand, and did a large business. Hallam was a man below the medium size, a little stooped, and of quiet demeanor. He had a good wagon yard, and catered to the tastes of old wagoners in an agreeable manner. The happiest moments of Amos Waltz were those in which he inserted the gear pole between the spokes of the hind wheel of a road wagon, as it stood on Hallam's yard, and afterward took a drink with the jolly wagoners in Hallam's old bar-room. In 1847 or 1848 the present Valentine House was built, and kept for many years thereafter by Maj. Geo. T. Hammond. It was also kept a while by ex-Sheriff Andrew Bruce, afterward by ex-Sheriff Hugh Keys, and later and until a recent date by William F.

d.i.c.key, and is now called the "Allison House."

In 1791 Michael Kuntz kept a tavern where Vowell's drug store stands.

This house was kept in 1797 by John Scott, under the sign of the "Spread Eagle." I. Neilson, John Fisher, Samuel McMillen, and John Ferguson, were all old tavern keepers of Washington.

Joseph Huston kept the "Buck Tavern" as early as 1796. This is a stone house on the east side of Main street, below Maiden. Huston kept this house until 1812, and died in it. His widow succeeded him for a brief period, and leased the house to James Sargeant, who kept it until 1815, when Mrs. Huston again went in, and kept it until 1820. She afterward re-married, lost her second husband, and was keeping this house in 1838 as Elizabeth Fleming, and it was continued after that date by her son, William B. Huston. The old Buck is still standing, one of the landmarks of the town.

In 1797 James Workman kept a tavern, the site of which is not known. He continued until 1813, when he went to farming. After three years'

experience in farming he returned to town, and opened a tavern under the sign of "Gen. Andrew Jackson." This old tavern stood on the west side of Main street, below the "Globe Inn." It was subsequently kept by Maj.

James Dunlap of the old Mt. Vernon House, east of Pancake.

From 1798 to 1806 Dr. John J. Lemoyne kept a tavern on the south side of Main street, where an old road came down over Gallows Hill. This house was afterward kept by Jacob Good, and continued for a number of years by his widow.

The "Globe Inn" was one of the most famous old taverns in Washington. It was located on the west side of Main street, at the corner of Strawberry alley. This house was opened as a tavern in 1797, and in the next year pa.s.sed to the hands of David Morris, and was kept by him, continuously, until his death in 1834. General LaFayette was entertained at this house in 1825, and it was a favorite stopping place of Henry Clay, and many other statesmen and heroes of the olden time. This old tavern was a frame building, and remained standing until 1891. Rev. William P.

Alrich, an old and popular professor of mathematics in Washington college, married a daughter of David Morris.

One Fox kept a tavern, at an early period, in a house that stood on the east side of Main street, where the Morgan Block now stands.

The "Cross Keys" was a popular tavern of the olden time. It stood on the southeast corner of Main and Wheeling streets, opposite the Valentine House. It was opened in 1801 by James McCamant, who kept it until his death, which occurred in 1813. Tradition has it that he died from the effects of a bite by a mad wolf. His widow continued it for about two years, when she quit it to take charge of the "General Washington House," nearly opposite the court house. She returned, however, after a time to the "Cross Keys," and was keeping that house as late as 1831. In the year last named she caused to be inserted in a town paper a notice that she furnished dinner and horse feed for twenty-five cents, and boarding and lodging for jurors and others attending court for two dollars a week. The "Cross Keys" was kept afterward at different dates by James Sargeant, Charles Rettig, John Bradfield, William Blakely and Otho Hartzell. It closed as a tavern previous to 1844. James McCamant, the first proprietor of the "Cross Keys" tavern, was the father-in-law of Joseph Henderson, esq., a prominent and popular old lawyer of Washington.

Christian Keiffer kept a tavern in 1805 at the sign of "Washington."

Keiffer's career as a tavern keeper must have been a brief and an uninteresting one, since old inhabitants are unable to locate his house, although it bore a name that should and does survive, in every other form except in its application to Keiffer's old tavern.

John Kirk kept a tavern about the beginning of the present century in a house that stood on Wheeling street, west of Main. This house was painted red and penciled to imitate brick. After Kirk left it William Wilson became its proprietor. He was known as "Center Billy." He did not find tavern keeping sufficiently profitable, and quitting the business, turned his attention to blacksmithing and wagon making. The old name of Wheeling street was "Belle," and the present name was given it by the old stage drivers and wagoners, because it intersected the old road leading to Wheeling.

The "Indian Queen" was an old and well remembered tavern on Main street, opposite the court house. It was opened in 1808 by John McCluny. In 1815 it changed its location and solicited public patronage on Main street, above Chestnut, where Justice Donehoe's residence now is, under the auspices of its old founder, John McCluny aforesaid. In its new location it became the headquarters of the Jackson Democracy. This house was kept by Thomas Officer, and was known as the "Green Tree," before McCluny placed it under the shield of the "Indian Queen." It was afterward occupied by John Johnson, who kept it for a number of years, and it ceased to do business as a tavern during his occupancy.

About the year 1820 John Manuel kept a tavern in a white frame house on the west side of Main street, immediately below the present depot of the Baltimore & Ohio railroad.

There was an old tavern in Washington at an early day kept by Jacob Moler, and known as "The Mermaid." It was located on the south side of West Wheeling street, and on the lot now owned by Charles Driehorst. It was the headquarters of the Hibernians, and while it did not aspire to rival the "Globe" or the "Rising Sun," it was not lacking in patronage.

It does not appear to have been continued as a tavern after the time of Moler.

The "Rising Sun," a leading tavern in its day, occupied a lot near the corner of Main and Chestnut streets, almost directly opposite the house subsequently known as "The Mansion." The first proprietor of the "Rising Sun" was James Garrett, and he remained in charge until 1822. He was active in his business, and accustomed to say, "Walk in, walk in, gentlemen; I keep a decent house, and provide sweetened bitters." James Briceland kept this house for one year, after which he turned it back to Garrett, who continued to keep it until it pa.s.sed to the hands of John N. Dagg, who kept it until he purchased the "Mansion House," on the opposite corner. It is said that one hundred teams have been seen standing around the "Rising Sun" in a single night. Briceland went down to the lower end of town and took charge of the house subsequently known as "The National." In 1823 while Dagg was keeping the "Rising Sun," a townsman and an old wagoner had an altercation in the bar-room, and Dagg pitched them both out into the street. In the descent the wagoner's head struck the curb-stone, fatally injuring him. Mr. Dagg was prosecuted and arraigned for murder in consequence, but acquitted by the jury on the ground that the homicide was more the result of accident, than any intention to kill. During the brief term of Mr. Briceland at the "Rising Sun" he had as guests on one occasion, Gen. Andrew Jackson, family and suite. The distinguished party were _en route_ to Washington City, and upon departing from the "Rising Sun" were honored by an escort of citizens of Washington as far east as Hillsboro.

In 1821 Enoch Miller opened a tavern in a large brick house at the west end of town, nearly opposite the old Methodist church, which stood on Chestnut street, a little below Franklin. He called his house the "General Brown," and it was well patronized. Richard Donaldson kept this house after Miller's time. Upon quitting the "General Brown" Enoch Miller opened the "Fountain Inn," a brick building nearly opposite and a few doors east of the "General Brown," on Chestnut street, and he was succeeded in this house in 1825 by George Ringland. William P. Byles was an old proprietor of this house also.

William J. Brown, called "Old Billy," kept a tavern as early as 1832, and for many years thereafter, on the east side of Main street near the center of town. It was a frame building and had a fair paying custom. It was known for a time as the "Farmers' Inn," and later as the "Black Bear." The old proprietor was a quaint character, and much pestered by the boys of the town. With all his troubles and tribulations he managed to lay aside a sufficiency of worldly goods to protect himself against the requirements of a rainy day.

[Ill.u.s.tration: S. B. HAYS.]

And there was old "Jimmy Brown," another odd character, not a relation of "Billy." Jimmy was an Irishman, and knew how to make and keep money.

He kept a tavern for many years in a white frame house opposite the court house, and near the "Fulton." He called his house "The Franklin."

His savings were sufficient to warrant him in tearing down his old house and erecting in its stead a fine new brick structure, which he did.

After building his new house he married a wife, and was warmly congratulated by his numerous friends. With the a.s.sistance of his wife he continued to entertain the public until his death, leaving the cares and anxieties of his business to his bereaved widow, who soon after remarried and retired to private life. The house is now used for mercantile purposes, one of the best locations in town. Jimmy Brown, when occupying his old house, was accustomed to say to his friends: "I have some nice _fesh_, come away to the cellar with me, and see my _fesh_." He had no license then.

The Mansion House was a leading tavern in Washington from the time it commenced business until it was destroyed by fire, which occurred after the National Road ceased to be a great thoroughfare. It was located on the northeast corner of Main and Chestnut streets. Before the "Mansion House" was built an old red frame house stood on this corner, which was kept as a tavern by a man whose surname was Scott. John N. Dagg bought this property prior to his withdrawal from the "Rising Sun," on the opposite corner, and commenced to improve it. The outcome of his enterprise was the erection of a large brick building, known as the Mansion House, with extensive sheds and stables in the rear. About the year 1834 Mr. Dagg leased the premises to John Irons, who conducted the house for a period of two years, after which Mr. Dagg returned as landlord, and continued to keep it down to the year 1844, or thereabout, when he leased it to S. B. and C. Hayes, who conducted it for a brief period, and were succeeded by Bryson and Shirls, subsequently of the St.

Charles Hotel, Pittsburgh. The Good Intent line of stages gave its patronage to the "American," when that house was kept by the Messrs.

Hayes, and to the "Greene House," when it was kept by Daniel Brown.

Thereafter the headquarters of that line were at the Mansion House, and it was headquarters for the Pilot line when the Good Intent stopped at the "American." The Mansion House had a large country trade, as well as that derived from the National Road. The old bar room was of immense size, and the old proprietor, John N. Dagg, was one of the largest men on the road. He was not fat, but tall, and widely proportioned. He provided for his country guests a large upright boot jack, with side bars, which acted as levers, designed to steady the toe in the operation of drawing off a boot. Half cut, cheap leather slippers were also provided, and upon pulling their boots, guests put on these slippers, and in the mornings, piles of boots, nicely polished, were placed in a corner of the bar room, to await the return of their owners from the slumbers of the night. It was not an uncommon thing to see scores of country people sitting about in the big bar room after supper, talking over the events of the day, all wearing the slippers referred to, preparatory to going to rest for the night, at the early bed time of that happy period. James K. Polk, wife and suite, stopped at the Mansion House on the inaugural trip in 1845. The "Examiner," under date of February 15, 1845, gave the following account of the reception of the distinguished party: "President Polk arrived in our borough on Monday evening last, about 5 o'clock, escorted by quite a respectable number of our citizens. The President was accompanied by his lady, J. Knox Walker, his private secretary, and Master Marshall Polk, comprising the President's family; also Colonel Butler, of Kentucky, Judge Hubbard, of Alabama, and Messrs. T. K. Stevenson, J. G. Harris and J. N. Esselman.

The arrival of the President having been sooner than was antic.i.p.ated, and intelligence of the same having reached us on Sabbath last, the arrangements on the part of our citizens were not so complete or extensive as they would have been under other and more favorable circ.u.mstances. Upon the arrival of the President at the Mansion House he was addressed by Dr. Wishart, as chairman of the committee of reception, in a spirited and appropriate manner, to which the President responded, to the evident gratification of the large a.s.sembly of persons who were present. In the course of his remarks Colonel Polk alluded to the unbounded feeling of grat.i.tude which filled his bosom for the distinguished partiality which had been extended toward him by his fellow citizens; to the great responsibility which that partiality had devolved upon him; to his implicit confidence in that power which controls the destinies of individuals as well as nations; to his determination to act for the best interests of our beloved country, and the vital importance of freedom of opinion and contrariety of sentiment among a Republican people. In concluding his remarks, the President expressed a strong desire to interchange congratulations with as many of our citizens, of all parties, as time and circ.u.mstances would permit.

After the formal reception was completed the President was conducted into the Mansion House, and during the evening was waited upon by many hundreds of our citizens, from town and country, without party distinction. Many of the ladies of our borough, with the Princ.i.p.al, a.s.sistant teachers and young ladies of our Female Seminary, also, called upon Mrs. Polk, whose plain, dignified and fascinating deportment and intelligent conversation rendered her company exceedingly pleasant. Mrs.

Polk has certainly not been too highly complimented, by the many notices which have been bestowed upon her, as a lady most admirably suited to the discharge of the peculiar duties which await her as the wife of the President-elect. On Tuesday morning at 9 o'clock the President and suite left our borough, in good health and spirits, for Uniontown, at which place they remained over night."

[Ill.u.s.tration: GEORGE T. HAMMOND.]

The Fulton House was a prominent house of entertainment in Washington for many years. It is located on the corner of Main and Beau streets, nearly opposite the court house. John Purviance kept a tavern on the Fulton House site from 1790 to 1805, and three years thereafter went to Claysville, as stated elsewhere in these pages. Richard Donaldson succeeded Purviance in this old house. John Fleming kept a tavern on this corner in 1820, called "The Philadelphia and Kentucky Inn." In January, 1821, a fire occurred in this house, on occasion of the marriage of a daughter of Mr. Fleming, which partially destroyed the building, and saddest of all, burnt to death one of the old proprietor's daughters. After the present large brick building was erected on this corner, it was called "The American House," and was kept by S. B. and C.

Hayes previous to 1840, and after them by John Huey. In 1846 or 1847 it was leased by Henry Fulton, who came from Westmoreland county, Pennsylvania, and under his management it took the name of the "Fulton House," which it retained, and under which it became widely and favorably known, until it was given the absurd name of "Hotel Maine."

The Fulton House was admirably conducted and extensively patronized.

The National House was the headquarters of the Stockton line of stages.

It is located on the northwest corner of Main and Maiden streets. The firm name of the Stockton line of stages was "The National Road Stage Company," and it has been seen that this line bestowed its favor upon public houses bearing the name "National." In 1821 Samuel Dennison, who came from Greensburg, Pennsylvania, kept an old tavern that stood on the site of the "National House." It was then known as "The Travelers' Inn and Stage Office." It was subsequently enlarged and improved, and in 1823 pa.s.sed to the control of James Briceland, under the name of the "National House." Its next occupant was John Irons, who was succeeded by James Searight, in 1836, and he in turn by Daniel Valentine, George T.

Hammond, Edward Lane, Adam C. Morrow and Elliot Seaburn. It was an elegant eating house in the days of staging, and at its best under the management of Hammond and Lane, respectively. It is now called the "Auld House," and, as in many other instances, its old prestige departed with its old name. James Searight went from the "National House" to Zanesville, Ohio, and kept a tavern there for a short time, and returning to Washington, leased the "Greene House," which was managed by his son, William. These Searights were of a c.u.mberland, Maryland, family.

As early as 1815 Richard Donaldson kept a tavern on Maiden street, opposite the Female Seminary. This old house was surrounded by s.p.a.cious grounds, and there was a ball alley in the rear of it, which afforded means of exercise and amus.e.m.e.nt for the town boys of the olden time.

James Workman succeeded Donaldson in this old tavern, and he, in 1830, was succeeded by Samuel Surratt, father of James F. Surratt, the popular postmaster of Steubenville, Ohio. Major William Paull kept this house previous to 1840, and for a time thereafter, and at the close of his term it was purchased by the trustees of the Female Seminary, since which time it has formed a portion of the real estate belonging to that inst.i.tution. Major Paull came to this house from the old stone house on Winding Ridge, and kept it as a wagon stand. It had good facilities for the accommodation of wagoners, by reason of the s.p.a.cious grounds before mentioned, and these, in connection with the fact that Major Paull was an experienced tavern keeper of the road, attracted a large and profitable patronage.