The Old Pike Part 31

CHAPTER x.x.xVI.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Brownsville to Beallsville--West Brownsville, the Birthplace of James G.

Blaine--Indian Hill, later known as Krepps' k.n.o.b--Indian Peter and Neil Gillespie--The Adams House, John c.u.mmins, Vincent Owens--An Old and Mysterious Murder--Malden, Bry Taylor--Tragic Death of a Beautiful Girl--Centreville, John Rogers, Zeph Riggle, Battelly White, the whip-maker, Mrs. Dutton, Eli Railley, The Old Const.i.tution, Beallsville, David Mitch.e.l.l, Andrew and Thomas Keys, Robert Cluggage, William Greenfield, Mrs. Chambers, Charles Guttery._

[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD TAVERN AT MALDEN.]

From the Big Crossings to the Monongahela river at Brownsville the road pa.s.ses through Fayette county, Pennsylvania. After crossing the river bridge at Brownsville, going west, the traveler reaches the soil of Washington county, and plants his feet in the ancient village of West Brownsville. From the hill tops on the road, as far west as Hillsboro, glimpses are had of the receding mountains. West Brownsville has the great distinction of being the birth place of James G. Blaine, the foremost and most popular of all American statesmen of the present day.

It is related in Crumrine's valuable and well written history of Washington county, that the land upon which West Brownsville stands was originally owned by Indian Peter. This Indian Peter, at a very early day, lived on lands in the vicinity of Uniontown, and gave name to Peter's street, the oldest street of that town. He had a neighbor whose name was Philip Shute, with whom he was not on friendly terms. Prior to 1769 Indian Peter wrote to the authorities of the proprietary government, that "he could not get along with the d.a.m.ned Dutchman, and wished to give up his land for another tract." His request was promptly complied with, and he was given a tract of three hundred and thirty-nine acres, situate on the west side of the Monongahela river, which was surveyed and called "Indian Hill," and upon this tract stands the town of West Brownsville. It embraces Krepps' k.n.o.b, which together with the character of the old owner, accounts for the name given the tract.

Krepps' k.n.o.b is ten hundred and forty feet above the level of the Atlantic ocean. Indian Peter, it seems, died in possession of the Indian Hill tract, and it pa.s.sed to his widow Mary, a white woman, and his oldest son William. In 1784 the widow and son aforesaid, sold the tract to Neil Gillespie, the great-grandfather of James G. Blaine. The price agreed upon between the parties was forty shillings per acre, payable in instalments of money, iron and one negro. This tract of land remained in the Gillespie family for many years. Philip Shute, the old German neighbor of Indian Peter, lived in Union township, Fayette county, now North Union, near the late residence of Colonel Evans, and gave name to the gushing mountain stream which flows through the lands of that vicinity. The bridge over the Monongahela river stands on an almost direct north and south line, and a short distance from its northern end the road makes a sharp angle to the westward. On the south side of this angle a tavern was kept by Samuel Adams, as early as the year 1820.

Samuel Adams was the father of Estep Adams, the present polite and popular postmaster at West Brownsville. John Huston succeeded Samuel Adams in this old house. In the early days of the road this house was constantly crowded with guests. At the close of Huston's term, the old house, which was a wooden structure, was torn down, and the present brick building was erected on its site, and continued as a tavern throughout the whole period of the road's prosperous era, and for many years thereafter. Joshua Armstrong was the first occupant of the new building. His term was prior to the year 1840. Morris Purcell came in, after Armstrong. Dr. Adams, the postmaster before mentioned, when a boy, counted fifty road wagons standing around this old tavern, in one night, when it was kept by Morris Purcell. The wagon yard, which was large and commodious, was located on the west side, and in the rear of the house.

Major William Paul, hereinbefore mentioned, succeeded Purcell in this house, about the year 1842, and retained the extensive line of wagon custom with which his predecessor was favored. James Watkins, an old stage driver of Washington, Pennsylvania, was Maj. Paul's bar keeper at this house, and his son-in-law, Thomas Hamen Hopkins, was the successor of Maj. Paul in this house. His widow is still keeping a tavern in West Brownsville. She is well up in years, but her memory is clear and well stored with interesting reminiscences of the road. Greenberry Millburn next had charge of this house, and kept it for a brief period, when he retired, and his name does not subsequently appear on the roll of old tavern keepers. John c.u.mmins was the next occupant of this house. He purchased the property, and held it until his death, which occurred near the close of the prosperous era of the road. He was an Irishman, thrifty and energetic, and besides tavern keeping, took contracts on public works. About the year 1859 this house pa.s.sed to the control of Moses Bennington, who conducted it during the era of the civil war. He was succeeded by William Dawson, whose successor was James B. Dorsie. Doc Bar kept the house for a brief period, and one of its occupants was Robert Miller. Upon the expiration of Miller's term Thomas H. Hopkins again took charge, and it was subsequently kept for short periods, at different times, by Solomon Watkins, James Nichols and John Taylor. The house is at present owned by the Pittsburg, Virginia and Charleston railroad company, and used as a pa.s.senger and freight station.

A few hundred yards west of the old Adams stand, and near the foot of the river hill, on the river side, an old stone house was kept as a tavern when the road was first opened, and for a number of years thereafter. The first man who catered to the wants of the traveling public at this old tavern was Vincent Owens, who had been a faithful soldier in Washington's army in the war of the Revolution. The property belonged to the old Krepps family of the vicinity, and the old tavern stood at the northwest landing of the old Krepps ferry. Owens was succeeded at this old tavern by Samuel Acklin, and Acklin by John Krepps, a brother of Samuel J. Krepps. Morris Purcell succeeded Krepps, and went from here to the old Adams House, before mentioned. The Krepps ferry was operated in connection with the management of this old tavern, and the ferry was continued down to the year 1845. The tavern was closed here long before the decline of travel on the road. The father of Vincent Owens was murdered in this old tavern while his son was conducting it. The crime was an atrocious one, causing great excitement and indignation in the neighborhood at the time, and the manner and motives of the act seem to be shrouded in mystery. Two persons who lodged in the house over night were suspected of the crime, but they fled before the light of the morning and were never apprehended.

About two and one-half miles west of Krepps' Ferry an ancient hamlet called by old pike boys Malden is reached. Here on the north side of the road stands an old stone tavern, which in the palmy days of the road was a popular stopping point. It belonged originally to the old Krepps family, of Brownsville, and was designed and erected for a tavern. It was evidently the belief of the old owners that a town would grow up on this site, as they caused a stone in the front wall of the old tavern, near the top, to be dressed and inscribed in cut letters with the name Kreppsville. This name, however, was not adopted by the public, but the place was, and continues to be known as Malden. The origin of this name is not positively known, but tradition has it that a party of emigrants encamping on the ground one night, fancying that it resembled the place of their nativity, Malden, probably in the State of Ma.s.sachusetts, gave it that name. Be this as it may, Malden is the popular name of the locality. The old tavern here was built in two sections and at different dates. The original, which is now the western section, was built in 1822, and a dressed stone in its front wall bears that date. The second, or eastern section, was built in 1830. It is the second section that bears the name Kreppsville, above mentioned; and, in addition, the stone slab disclosing this name shows the date 1830, also the word "Liberty,"

and the figure of a plow and sheaf of wheat. Bry Taylor was the first person who kept the old tavern at Malden, and he was constantly busy while there in attending to the wants of the traveling public. He had an amiable and beautiful daughter, Kizzie, who was accidentally killed in this house, causing great sorrow in the neighborhood. Her brother, James, had been out hunting one day, and returning, placed his gun negligently on a table. His sister, Miss Kizzie, besought him to put the gun in a safe place, which he declined to do, remarking that "it wouldn't hurt anybody where it was." Miss Kizzie did not share his confidence in regard to the absence of danger, and proceeded to remove the gun herself. Her brother interfered to prevent the gun's removal, when a scuffle ensued between the parties, during which the gun was discharged, and Miss Kizzie was fatally shot. The room in which this sad affair occurred is still pointed out to visitors. As if by the law of compensation, James Taylor, the brother, many years afterward was himself shot. He became a river man, and gradually made his way to points down the Ohio and Mississippi, and was finally shot and killed by a United States Marshal near Memphis. Samuel Acklin followed Taylor in the old tavern at Malden, and was favored with a large patronage, consisting mainly of wagoners and drovers. Acklin was at this house as early as 1836. Samuel Bailey succeeded Acklin, and Bailey was succeeded in turn by William Pepper and William Garrett. James Britton, now and for thirty years past, has owned this property. He occupies the old tavern as a private residence, and operates the fertile farm attached to it.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WILLIAM GREENFIELD.]

The next point west, distant about three miles, is Centreville. Moving onward towards Centreville the traveler pa.s.ses the old farms and residences of Jonathan Knight, the famous civil engineer of other days, and Nathan Pusey, father of Hon. W. H. M. Pusey, a leading banker, Democratic politician and ex-member of Congress, of Council Bluffs, Iowa. Another point of interest on this part of the line, is the old historic Taylor church, which stands on the north side of the road, a monument of the religious tendencies of the good old inhabitants of the vicinity. Centreville was laid out in 1821, soon after the road was completed, and with special reference to its completion, and the antic.i.p.ated prosperity to ensue by reason thereof. It is equi-distant between Uniontown and Washington. The first old tavern kept in Centreville was by John Rogers, father of the venerable Joseph T.

Rogers, of Bridgeport. It is a brick house, on the north side of the road, still standing. Robert Rogers succeeded his father in this house and kept it for many years, and died in possession. At brief intervals in the lifetime of Robert Rogers this house was conducted by Solomon Bracken, son-in-law of Mr. Rogers, and a Mr. Wilson, the latter occupying it but for one year. The Rogers House was known and noted throughout the entire period of the road's prosperous era as a quiet, orderly, well kept tavern. The leading wagon stand in Centreville was on the hill at the west end of town, a brick house, on the south side of the road. The wagon yard was in the rear. Zephania Riggle kept this house at an early day, and was succeeded in 1845 by Peter Colley, a nephew of Abel Colley, before mentioned. Henry Whitsett came in after Colley, and next Jacob Marks, who was followed by William Garrett, and Jesse Quail succeeded Garrett. The property is now owned by Joseph B.

Jeffreys who keeps the old tavern open for the accommodation of strangers and travelers. The house kept by Zeph Riggle on this site was destroyed by fire during his inc.u.mbency, and promptly rebuilt. Battley White, the celebrated manufacturer of the wagoner's black snake whip, before mentioned, lived in Centreville. The house now occupied by Morris Cleaver, on the hill west of Centreville, was at one time a tavern. It was first kept by Charley Miller, then by Zeph Riggle, and next, in 1836, by Mrs. Dutton, mother of John R. Dutton, the well known, reputable and prosperous merchant of Brownsville. Mrs. Dutton owned the property, and moved from here to Brownsville, after which this old tavern closed. Its career was somewhat brief, but it was a well kept tavern, and had a good line of custom in its day.

About half a mile west from Mrs. Dutton's an old frame tavern, on the north side of the road, as early as 1824, displayed the sign of the CONSt.i.tUTION, and entertained primitive travelers of the road. This old house was kept for a while by one Johnson, but it long since disappeared from view.

Eli Railley kept a tavern as early as 1830 in a brick house on the north side of the road, about one and a half miles west of Centreville, and was succeeded by the widow Welsh, who conducted it as a tavern as late as 1850. This house is still standing, owned by Amos Cleaver, and occupied by his son as a private residence.

Beallsville, distant one and a half miles from the old Railley tavern, is next reached. In proceeding to Beallsville the traveler pa.s.ses one of the old toll houses, all of which, as before stated, are still standing, and in good condition, except the one near Mt. Washington and the one on Big Savage mountain. David Mitch.e.l.l, the old collector at the gate near Beallsville, is well remembered as a straightforward, honest and intelligent citizen. Beallsville, like Centreville as a town, was the outgrowth of the National Road. It was laid out in 1821, and incorporated as a borough in 1852. Jonathan Knight, the old engineer before mentioned, surveyed the site of the town and made the plat. The National Road forms the main street of this town, as it does that of Centreville. The first old tavern reached in Beallsville, going west, was on the north side, at the east end of the town. This house was first kept by Andrew Keys, and after him by Thomas Keys. This was previous to 1840. It was next kept by Robert Cluggage, and after Cluggage, James Dennison kept it. Dennison was succeeded by Moses Bennington, who afterwards kept the old Adams House at West Brownsville. Charles Guttery also kept this house in 1854. Dennison was a Claysville man, and after keeping tavern for short terms, at different points on the road, returned to Claysville, where he died. He was an old wagoner, as well as a tavern keeper, and well and favorably known on the road. He had an interest by marriage, or birth-right, in some real estate at or near Claysville, and this is doubtless the chord that drew him at last back to that point. The old Keys tavern had a commodious wagon yard attached, and entertained many old wagoners.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHARLES GUTTERY.]

About the center of the town of Beallsville, and on the south or west side, Wm. Greenfield kept a famous old tavern, and he was in many other respects a famous old man. He was tall and spare, with a brown complexion, a defective eye, and a philosophic turn of mind. It was his fortune to have a good wife, and to her, in great measure, was attributed the high grade of this old tavern. The traveler could always get a good cup of coffee at Greenfield's, a rare thing in a tavern and utterly unknown in a hotel. In addition to keeping tavern, William Greenfield was a banker, and established the "Beallsville Savings Bank."

His bank was in his tavern, and his safe was his pocket. He issued notes of small denominations, which were handsomely printed and engraved, and they acquired some credit, and a limited circulation. The pressure of redemption, however, was more than the old banker-tavern keeper could withstand, and he was forced to close business as a banker, but continued his tavern successfully. It is due to the memory of the old gentleman to state, that no serious losses were sustained by the note holders of his bank. He continued to keep tavern at the old stand until his death, which occurred many years ago, and all the old pike boys, from one end of the road to the other, have a kind word for the memory of William Greenfield.

Charley Miller kept a tavern as early as 1830, and probably before that date, in the brick house on the corner opposite Greenfield's, and this house was subsequently, and for many years kept by Mrs. Chambers. It was a quiet, orderly, and aristocratic old tavern, especially when under the management of Mrs. Chambers, and enjoyed a good reputation as an eating house. Benjamin Demon took charge of this house after the retirement of Mrs. Chambers, and kept it for a while. Moses Bennington succeeded Demon, and Charles Guttery succeeded Bennington. Guttery was the last of the old line of tavern keepers, at this house. Beallsville was a station for the line wagons, and John Cook, an old wagoner whose home was there, drove a line team for many years.

CHAPTER x.x.xVII.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Beallsville to Washington--Hillsboro--The Old Hill House--Samuel Youman, next to Old Mount the biggest man of the Road--George Ringland, John n.o.ble, Billy Robinson, Charley Miller's, The Gals House, Daniel Ward, Egg Nog Hill, The Long Stretch, Thomas Hastings, The Upland House, Joseph Doak, The Mount Vernon House, Maj. Dunlap, Charles Rettig, Pancake, Jonathan Martin, The Sample House._

Three miles west from Beallsville the traveler reaches the village of Hillsboro. This little town is another outgrowth of the National Road, and as at Beallsville and Centreville, the road forms its main street.

The grade from Beallsville to Hillsboro is for the most part ascending, the hill going out west from Beallsville being one of the longest on the road, and Hillsboro is situate on a lofty eminence overlooking a wide range of hills, and many fertile slopes and valleys. On the summit above Hillsboro, the traveler coming east, gets the first glimpses of Laurel Hill, thirty miles distant in the mountains. Crumrine's history of Washington county, before quoted, informs us that Hillsboro was laid out in the year 1819, a date coincident with the completion of the road. The proprietors of the town were Stephen Hill and Thomas McGiffin, and Crumrine's history contains the following notice of the first public sale of lots:

"The public are informed that a town has been laid off, to be called Hillsboro, adjoining Hill's stone tavern, about equal distance from Washington to Brownsville, and that lots will be sold on the premises on Monday, the 19th day of August, at public auction. Sale to commence at 10 o'clock A. M.

July 19, 1819. STEPHEN HILL, THOMAS MCGIFFIN, Proprietors."

[Ill.u.s.tration: BILLY ROBINSON.]

Accompanying the plat of the town as recorded, says Crumrine, were these remarks: "The above is a plan of the town of Hillsboro, nearly equi-distant between Brownsville and Washington, Pennsylvania, on the United States road." Signed by the proprietors. Stephen Hill belonged to an old family of that name, which was among the early settlers of the region, and Thomas McGiffin was an old and prominent lawyer of Washington, and a contractor on the original construction of the road, father of Col. Norton McGiffin, a soldier of two wars, and Sheriff and member of the Legislature for Washington county. Hill's stone tavern was in existence as early as 1794. In the early history of the National Road, and for a number of years, it was the leading tavern of Hillsboro, kept by Thomas Hill, who was not a son, but a near relative, probably a nephew, of Stephen Hill, the old proprietor. Samuel Youman kept this house fifty years ago, after the retirement of Hill. Youman was a stage driver as well as a tavern keeper, and next to "Old Mount," as before stated, the biggest man on the road. One of the stage lines, that on which Youman was a driver, stopped at this house, and it was the only stage house on the road that was largely patronized by old wagoners, and their favor was obtained probably by reason of the s.p.a.cious and commodious wagon yard in front of the house. John Hampson, John Gibson, William Dawson and Oliver Lac.o.c.k each in turn kept this house since Youman's time, and it is at present continued as a tavern by Mr.

Lac.o.c.k's son.

In the year 1827 James Beck kept a tavern in Hillsboro. He was a member of the old bridge builders firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, and moved from the "Vance farm," near Uniontown, which he once owned, to Hillsboro, at the date named. He remained in Hillsboro but one year, and his successor in the tavern there was George Ringland. Ringland was a citizen of some prominence in his day, a brother of Col. Thomas Ringland, an old soldier, and a leading man in the public affairs of Washington county more than half a century ago. David Railly succeeded Ringland in this house about the year 1840. It was a stage house, but did a general business. After Railly this house was kept at different times by John n.o.ble, who married Railly's widow, John Taylor, Henry Taylor, Jesse Core and William Robinson. n.o.ble and Robinson were both old stage drivers, n.o.ble before, as well as after his experience as a tavern keeper.

Robinson died a tavern keeper, and in the house last mentioned. "Billy"

Robinson was one of the best known and most popular men of the road. He was short in stature, with reddish complexion, dark hair, and an amiable disposition. He hauled many an old-time statesman safely in his nimble coach, and afterward dined him sumptuously in his bountiful tavern.

There was an old tavern in Hillsboro, near the centre of the town, on the south side of the road, kept first by John Wilson, and after his time by Stephen Phelps, and next and last by David Powell. Its career was not as long as many other old taverns of the road, but in its time it was a lively house and had a large run of custom. Zeph Riggle kept a tavern in what is known as the Dr. Clark house, on the south side, in Hillsboro, at an early day, and as at other points on the road where he catered to the wants of the traveling public, drew a good trade. He was the only person that ever kept this house as a tavern.

About two miles west of Hillsboro the famous old tavern of Charley Miller is reached. It is a large and handsome brick building on the south side of the road, and was kept before Miller's time by Henry Taylor. Miller did a large business, and had all sorts of customers, with a capacity to adapt himself to the wants and whims of every variety. He was accustomed to say, in commendation of his whisky, that it was a hundred years old; that he could vouch for its age, for he helped to make it. Parties of young folks were accustomed to drive out from Washington, a distance of ten miles, to take a meal and have a dance at Charley Miller's. His meals were sumptuous and savory, and gave his house a reputation from which he did not fail to profit. One of his specialties was fine peach brandy, which is graciously remembered and frequently spoken of by the survivors of the old pike boys with a glow of enthusiasm. Miller died in this house, and it pa.s.sed to the hands of David Ullery.

"No longer the host hobbles down from his rest In the porch's cool shadow, to welcome his guest With a smile of delight and a grasp of the hand, And a glance of the eye that no heart could withstand."

One and a half miles west of Charley Miller's, on the south side of the road, a tavern was kept in a wooden building many years ago by William Plymire. This old tavern furnished good entertainment, and its old host was attentive and polite to his patrons. Plymire was succeeded in this house by Henry Yorty, who kept it going as a tavern until his death, and for some time thereafter it was kept by his widow, but was never kept as a tavern after Mrs. Yorty's time.

The next old wagon stand on the westward tramp is the "Gals House." This house is situate on the north side of the road, about two miles west of Charley Miller's. It is a frame building, and once was painted red, but the red all wore off many years ago, and was not replaced. It was called the "Gals House," because it was owned and conducted by three maiden women of the family name of Dague. The grounds around this old house, night after night, throughout the entire period of the road's prosperity, were crowded with teams and wagons, and the reputation of the place was excellent in every particular. The Dague girls were the owners of the house, and of about eighty acres of rich land surrounding it, and after business closed on the road, they sold and conveyed the property to Joseph Henderson, a well remembered and worthy old stage driver, who went into possession and made this place his home for many years.

[Ill.u.s.tration: DANIEL WARD.]

One mile further west is Ward's. Here a well known tavern was kept by Daniel Ward, all through the flourishing era of the road, and it was well kept and well patronized. Ward was rich, the owner of his tavern stand, and a fine farm in addition, and therefore unlike many other old tavern keepers of the road who leased their houses from year to year, and changed from point to point at different times. Ward's tavern is a large frame house, on the north side of the road, with a s.p.a.cious porch in front, and a large wagon yard conveniently attached, and was a favorite stopping place for old wagoners. The old house is still standing, unused, because not needed as a tavern, but it remains a prominent landmark of the road, carrying the mind back to the period of its enlivening scenes and moving pageants. Daniel Ward was a p.r.o.nounced type of the old tavern keeper. He was rather a large man, not fleshy, but broad shouldered, with a slight stoop. His complexion was reddish, and he always had a pleasant smile wherewith to greet a guest.

He wore a broad-rimmed, high-crowned, brown-colored fur hat, with long, soft nap, the style of hat worn by all old tavern keepers and wagoners when dressed for special occasions. Mrs. Ward was an admirable help-mate for her husband. She was a large woman, of florid complexion, and full of energy and zeal in her occupation. The meals she spread before her numerous guests in all seasons were bountiful and relishable, and gave her husband's old tavern a wide reputation. What a change? Once all was life and animation at this old tavern, now

"The wind whistles shrill, through the wide open doors, And lizards keep house, on the mouldering floors."

Four miles west from Ward's the old and popular wagon stand of Thomas Hastings is reached. In proceeding onward toward the Hastings House a celebrated point is pa.s.sed, known in the peculiar vocabulary of the road as "Egg Nog Hill." On this hill for many years lived in retirement Samuel Flowers, one of the oldest, steadiest and best known wagoners of the road. William D. Evans, residing in Malvern, Iowa, a son of Gabriel Evans, of the old firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, contractors and bridge builders, before mentioned, furnishes the following story as to the origin of the name of this hill: The engineers in locating the line of the road were much exercised in fixing the grade at this point, and before arriving at conclusions the sun went down, and with a view probably of stimulating their minds to clearer conceptions, they ordered a bucket of egg-nog to be served in their shanty. Partaking freely of this ancient, agreeable and strong beverage during the night, they proceeded next morning with the work in hand, and established the grade without further embarra.s.sment. The chain carriers and other employees were called in to the rough, roadside banquet, and the region all around echoed the notes of that night's revelry, and ever thereafter the locality has been known as "Egg Nog Hill." If this is a true account of the origin of the name, and the authority quoted is respectable and credible, there are many persons willing to aver that the influence of the egg nog was anything but propitious, since the grade of the road at this point is nothing to boast of. At the foot of Egg Nog Hill a valley is reached over which the road pa.s.ses for a distance of two miles on a level grade, varied by slight undulations, terminating at or near the old Buchanan postoffice. This portion of the road was called by old stage drivers "The Long Stretch," and over its favorable grade stage teams sped with more than ordinary rapidity. It is considered germaine to state in this connection, that the general grade of the road has been much and sharply criticised, and by many condemned outright. The main point of objection urged against the grade is, that it involves many long and steep hills, which could have been avoided by making side cuts and occupying the valleys, and this is true, but any other location would have lengthened the line and increased the cost of construction and maintenance. David Shriver, of c.u.mberland, was the chief engineer in charge of the location, and instructed by the Government to make the line as straight as practicable, within the limit of a five degree elevation. Besides, there was a popular theory when the line was located, that a road over hills was not as fatiguing to horses as a road with a uniform grade. It was argued that a horse is provided with two sets of muscles, one of which is used in going up and the other in going down a hill, and the conclusion was that horses were relieved and rested by a change from an up to a down grade. After this digression, the reader's attention is invited back to the old tavern of Thomas Hastings.

It is situate on the summit of a hill of average length and grade on the south side, and a short distance back from the road. The location of this house, with reference to the road, is similar to that of the old red tavern, two miles east of Brownsville. The Hastings House was a leading tavern of the road, all through its prosperous era. The large patronage it enjoyed is the best evidence that it was well kept.

John W. McDowell, of Uniontown, an ex-County Commissioner of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, was working on the road in 1844 under the superintendency of William Searight, and boarding at the Hastings House.

On the morning of the election of that year he rose "bright and early,"

took his breakfast "before the break of day," mounted a horse, and rode to Mt. Washington, the polling place for Wharton township, which was his home, in time to vote for Polk and Dallas. McDowell frequently relates this incident of his life, when recounting his party services, and lays particular stress on the circ.u.mstance that the dining room girls gladly furnished him his breakfast and cheered him on his mission. The distance from the old Hastings tavern to Mt. Washington is forty-two miles.

While the road was undergoing construction, there was a tavern about midway of the "Long Stretch," and on the south side of the road. It was kept by one Smith, of the extensive American family of that name. At times there was great disorder and much tumult, amounting almost to riot, at this old tavern, and on one of these occasions the old militia of Washington county was ordered to the scene to enforce the keeping of the peace. These disorders, like similar outbreaks of the present day, were no doubt attributable to the immoderate use of intoxicants.

[Ill.u.s.tration: JOHN W. McDOWELL.]

Within a few hundred feet, and west of the old Hastings house, Samuel Hughes kept a tavern in 1844 and before, and probably a short time after that date. His house was a large and imposing frame building on the north side of the road, and known in its day as the "Upland House." This name appeared on the sign board. The surroundings of this house were attractive. It had an aristocratic air about it, and enjoyed an aristocratic patronage. While old wagoners crowded the Hastings House, travelers in chaises and fine carriages stopped at the Upland. By some means, and many years ago, this old house was demolished, and a fine brick building erected on its site, owned and occupied by Joseph Doak, who was at one time a superintendent of the road.

About one and a half miles west of the Upland House, Major James Dunlap, at a very early period of the road's history, kept a tavern on the south side, on an elevation and a little distance back from the roadside. It was called the "Mt. Vernon House," and was doing business as early as the year 1816, two years before the road was completed as far west as Washington. Major Dunlap was a prominent man of his day, and brigade inspector of the Washington county (Pennsylvania) militia, an office of no little consequence in the early history of Pennsylvania. Major Dunlap subsequently kept the Jackson House in Washington, Pennsylvania. Before reaching the Mt. Vernon House, an old round toll house is pa.s.sed, where William Hill collected tolls for many years from the throngs of travelers on the road. The old Mt. Vernon House was supplanted by a new one, under the direction of Charles Rettig, who became the owner of the property. The new house is a brick structure, and was a wagon stand.

There was an abundant water supply at this house, and old stage drivers and wagoners halted upon reaching it to refresh their teams. Charles Rettig died about the year 1860. He was a staunch and st.u.r.dy citizen, and possessed the confidence and enjoyed the respect of all his neighbors.

The next point west, but a short distance, is invested with more than ordinary interest. It is Pancake, sometimes called Martinsburg, and in later years, to a limited extent, known as Laboratory. But Pancake was the original, and remains the popular name. It is almost within eyesight of Washington. The first tavern here was kept by George Pancake, and hence the name given the place. His house was a small log building, erected near the beginning of the present century, and probably the first house in the village. Pancake did well with the means at his command, but his old house was not equal to the growing wants of the road, and after it was removed, and the old proprietor called to his final reckoning, Jonathan Martin appeared on the scene. Martin was a discerning man, and foreseeing the future of the National Road as a great highway, built a large brick house for use as a tavern. It is situate on the north side of the road, two stories, twelve large and comfortable rooms, and was erected in the year 1825. A s.p.a.cious porch runs the entire length of the house and approaches the edge of the road.

Jonathan Martin kept this tavern from the date of its erection until business closed on the road, with the exception of one year that it was in charge of J. W. Holland, back in the forties. Since the close of its career as a tavern it has been occupied as a quiet farm house. Martin was a genial landlord, and made money at tavern keeping. A short distance back from the tavern he had a horse-power grist mill and a carding machine which he operated for a number of years, thus supplementing his gains as a tavern keeper. General Jackson was on one occasion a guest of Martin's tavern, and the celebrated theologian, Alexander Campbell, frequently lodged within its venerable walls and sat at its bounteous table.

As early as 1824 George Ringland kept a wagon stand tavern within a short distance of the borough limits of Washington. His old house, a commodious brick building, is still standing, situate on the north, or at this point rather, east side of the road, with sufficient ground intervening to form a good wagon yard. John Sample succeeded Ringland at this old stand, and became the owner of the property. It is now the private residence of William Workman, esq., and has not been kept as a tavern since 1844.